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MX5 Miata CAS O-Ring Replacement: The NA Miata's MOST Common Oil Leak!
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2020
- Today I show you how to fix the MOST common oil leak on the Mazda MX5 Miata, the inevitable CAS (Camshaft Angle Sensor, or Crank Angle Sensor) O-Ring. This is a fairly easy part to replace and it'll stop the oil leak, and it happens frequently on nearly all NA (1990-1997) Mazda Miatas. This video shows you everything you need to know to replace this O-Ring, from how to remove your sensor to replace the o-ring and reinstall it, all while ensuring you don't change your timing. Enjoy!
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![Troubleshooting 6 Common Issues Your Miata Might Have! [Project 2SJ Ep5]](/img/1.gif)
Need a CAS O-Ring? Get it here! (Affiliate links for which I may be compensated) ebay.us/T8yAh0
Do you have another link?
Or the measures of the o ring
I couldn't get the sensor out from behind the engine, but swiftly realised I could do the job in place, just with it pulled out and angled up. This probably saved me a lot of effort, particularly with the reinstallation, because I could just poke the tabs with a screwdriver and try again. Loosening the top bolts (so many thanks to the person who commented to do this!) was what really swung it though.
Great video; very helpful.
Shop note; use plastic implements to manipulate O-rings and other seals to avoid scratching sealing surfaces.
Good plan. I was going to use a wooden toothpick. Actually a plastic one should do this well too.
thank god i found this my car wouldn't start because this piece wasn't working!
thank you!
Tip: If the CAS is getting stuck/jammed often when trying to take it out or in, loosen the two 12mm bolts above the hole! You will need to remove the black bracket holding the spark plug wires that's right above one of them. It should be easy to move after that. You should NOT need to use crazy amounts of pressure to put it in.
You’re right about not needing force to put it back in; if it’s lined up correctly (I know this is the sole trickiest part) then it should slide in as easily as it came out.
What did surprise me is no grease was applied to the new O-Ring with re-installation.
I reckon I’ll wipe the hole clear of oil, wipe the sensor and put the new seal on with a thick silicone grease (silicone grease or red rubber grease so as not to perish the rubber seal with mineral grease) then that should help it to slide back in but also help to seal it too!
There is an indentation on one of the splines of the cas sensor. If your having trouble lining it up to the cam. It's because you haven't lined up the small grove allowing the cas to go fully in with no issue. There should be absolutely no resistance when installing a new cas.
Loosening the two bolts on top of where the sensor mounts makes this such an easy install. I found this out after a couple hours trying to get it back into the hole.
Yeah that helps, also if the valve cover is off you can see the fingers the sensor so you don’t have to guess
That comment, literally saved me from throwing the towel in. Loosen the top 2 bolts!
This comment probably saved me hours! Thank you so much for adding it!
I loosened those bolts, but don't know how it helped me! The fella went in after I did that though so I can't complain.
Thanks for the vid! I thought I was in trouble because I couldn't get the old o-ring to budge. I found a tiny flat head, started to pry it, and it cracked in half instantly. Absolutely no play in the o-ring it was literally solid plastic!
Just finished it up!!! Thank you so much!!!
Thanks for the recording ...did mine today, with the cam cover on...(I replaced that gasket when I did the timing belt/waterpump etc.. didn't want to mess with it.. it was not leaking at all.
I could not get the CAS our from behind the engine, so I used a plastic interior panel tool and easy broke the decomposing "O" ring off, and put the new one on without bringing the sensor out from behind the engine... a little tricky, put got her done...
Those two keys on the CAS are almost the same, and hard to see which cam cut out matches with a mirror... one is about a half a mm wider... Seeing that after a bit the orientation was easier, and got it pretty quick... It looked more apparent on your recording?
Incidentally I removed the engine pick bracket, and still couldn't clear firewall and the back of the engine, to get the CAS out?? Got ii replaced ions pipe of the hick-up, and she was leaking. The old ring had a flat spot all the way around from all they years, and broke easily when I pulled on it... Hopefully this is the end of the leaks... as least for now... Differential is weaping a little, maybe I'll tackle that next.
Of course I got blood on it... never doing anything without blood...
Fantastic video. Simple, clear and well explained!
Thank, I'm glad this helped you!
One of the first things I had to do on my car, never expected it to be this hard seeing all the vids about it, especially since I physically couldnt get the CAS out of the engine bay. Biggest pain in the ass out of all the maintenance I did.
Yeah it’s unfortunate that this leak is so common. It is a pain to fish it out from behind the engine, it certainly takes some trial and error. Glad you got yours fixed!
@@CashedOutCars Fishing it out from behind the engine is only a minor pain. Getting it lined up for the reinstall is the major pain in the ass. It took me 45 minutes and approximately 300 curse words to get it back in correctly.
Yeah you're right there. That part took me the longest too and it definitely is the most difficult part. Without using an inspection mirror which is what I ended up doing you're just taking a shot in the dark
I wonder if this issue fixes my current problem which is going extremely slow on first gear and then having to rev up to pick up some speed. Never knew about this part as I’m not a mechanic. Thanks for this video!
Awesome!
That's exactly what I need!
Thanks a lot, man!
Dont Forget to put a little bit of oil on CAS to avoid struggling ! It helps to find right position with the CAM
I agree, that should certainly help
With just removing the 3 wiring connectors and loosening the lift mount, it would NOT come out from behind the engine. Dunno if some 1.6's are different? or some CAS units are shorter? but in the video when he gets the CAS out, there's a gap between the flange and I had NO gap. I already had the valve cover off, so I just removed the two bolts from the piece that holds the CAS in and removed it, then reapplied some high temp silicone gasket maker and put it all back.
I spent about an hour trying to get it out, but there was not nearly enough space to pull the sensor out 😂
I guess that leak is there to stay 😂
Loosen the 12mm bolts on the top of the engine either side of the sensors makes life ALOT easier
Nice one, something to watch our for the future.
For sure! Luckily it's an easy enough and cheap fix
I have a issue I can’t line the marks up and get the bolt in, the slot that makes it so u can adjust the timing is covering the hole for the bolt. The bolt felt tight when I originally got it out never was able to undo it with my fingers but nothing is cross threaded it can go in just won’t be in time what should I do? A friend is coming over with a timing light but is away for a few weeks so I’m stuck atm
Good job. I will be taking off the cams to replace the valve stem seals. Should I wait to replace the whole unit after I put the cam shaft back in?
I gave you a like as you said finagling, awesome word.
ruclips.net/video/tLlVhDmwIwg/видео.html
2:49
5 years earlier.
My car only leaks when on lol, is this a likely fix?
Got mine to do and the cam cover
That's a good time to do it, it'll be easier to do them together. Good luck!
Hey man, pretty new to cars here but I’ve been breaking bolts left and right on my 1995, I’m from ct so the rust can be pretty bad. Should I be worried about breaking the 12mm on the cas? Should I spray it with wd40 first? I’m just not trying to dig a deeper hole for myself
yeah man use it with the straw
Great tip!
I think I’ll put a load of WD40 in that area beforehand on my ‘92!
Best to ease it off that way!
Can you imagine that bolt snapping?!
It would be an Engine out job to drill it out!!
@@jonnyware9061 most of the time it’s not, but I don’t want to play that risk. I kept the 1995 but I’m probably going to sell it this week. I’ve tried penetrating oil, and a heat gun but the bolts always snap bolts. The car is a Miata so maybe it’s worse than some/most but I’ve decided to sell it, I don’t want to worry about having to tow it to the shop because there’s half a built stuck in the engine
thank you
I can’t get it back in! I gave up for the night. Your vid shows all of the correct strips, but I was not anticipating several hours attempting to get it lined up for reinsertion. I have even tried using my phones front camera to visualize real time, but I still couldn’t get it in. And last tips before I have it towed?
It’s tough to line it up. That’s a good idea with the camera, I’d try that again. It requires quite a bit of force to get it into place. Good luck!
Did you end up getting it in?
@@rauldeu719 No, I ended up having it towed. Even the import garage had a hard time getting it in. I guess I had the one difficult case. Oh well. You live and learn.
@@Driven2012 do you have the 1.6 or the 1.8?
For those Dealing with this problem like myself, I went on the Miata forums and read that it’s easier if you remove you valve cover. I’ve ordered a new gasket for my valve cover so I’ll try that method and I’ll put out and update here if I was able to fit the damn CAS thing. Wish me luck…
Awesome thank you
You’re welcome, I’m glad this helped!
My miata is having a oil leak too and I assume this is the leak, hopefully this will fix it cuz im not too sure where it's coming from haha
Hopefully this solves it!
One bolt?
Will it fit flush if the teeth don’t line up? I feel like I got it lined up and in the same position.
If the teeth aren’t lined up you won’t be able to get it in, if it’s complete flush, how it was when you removed it, you’re in good shape!
Thanks man !
I have a 1999 1.8nb, is the same proces?
Thanks
It should be the same process! I just picked up a 99 as well😂
Where can i find one for nb8a,or its compatible with nb8b nb8c
Thank you
You have to remove the CAS in order to remove the intake cam (I was removing the cams in order to pull and clean the valve lifters), however I wasn't aware scribing was necessary. Now what? Shoot for a middle position? Piston #1 is at TDC because I'm also replacing the timing belt. Is it possible for the two "notches" to be 180 degrees off?
It won’t go in if it’s 180° off fortunately
What if you forget to mark where they lined up before you took it off because of stupidity
Then you won’t get it back to exactly the same spot, but if you get it reasonably close you’ll be okay. You can also check your base timing to do it the right way
Perfect timing
Glad to hear it!
Who's Zach?
Can excessive oil leaking over time damage the sensor or cause it to malfunction?
I would think so, it would be covers in old dry oil. Not to mention u leaking oil
@@The_Lorax__ Mine is covered in old dry oil and my engine keeps randomly cutting out, I think I found the problem...