I have been lucky enough to buy a local 1990 NA which was bought off of the show room floor. I have known all of the owners personally. We all worked in the same department at a local university. At the moment, I am completing a coolant reroute and in doing so are replacing the o-ring on the CAS. Working in that tight space has not been enjoyable. Getting the surface clean enough to re-install the heater hose coupling has been a struggle. I did not remove the valve cover as you have. I am a person who is mechanically inclined but very much an amateur hobbyists which has a great respect for the history of the car and its development. I have befriended the head parts manager at the local dealership where the car was purchased originally. He knows of my keen interest and gifted me the original shop manual which belongs with the car. This car was the first Miata that was sold by this dealership. Not that this matters but it is something which endears the car to me even more. I thought you might enjoy this little story. I expect not many owners can say they know the history of their car and able to document its life as the car which I now own. The car has 142 k miles. At 100k one of the previous owners had the short nose crank replaced with the stronger crank. So at 100k the engine at least got a bottom job. I expect they didn’t pull the engine. That is just a guess. I don’t know if they did a ring and hone job at that time. None of the original mechanics are still working there so there is no one to ask about that. By the time I got the car, it was in a sad shape cosmetically. I had it repainted and my wife and I put a new canvas top on it plus new seat covers and a few things to replace worn items. The cursed water plug is why I am at the point of this lengthy story. I figure if I am force to deal with the rear of the engine an upgrade might as well be done. Thank you for your videos. The production of the images is a job in itself and I for one appreciate your efforts. They are a great help to me.
Thanks for the recording ...did mine today, with the cam cover on...(I replaced that gasket when I did the timing belt/waterpump etc.. didn't want to mess with it.. it was not leaking at all. I could not get the CAS our from behind the engine, so I used a plastic interior panel tool and easy broke the decomposing "O" ring off, and put the new one on without bringing the sensor out from behind the engine... a little tricky, put got her done... Those two keys on the CAS are almost the same, and hard to see which cam cut out matches with a mirror... one is about a half a mm wider... Seeing that after a bit the orientation was easier, and got it pretty quick... It looked more apparent on your recording? Incidentally I removed the engine pick bracket, and still couldn't clear firewall and the back of the engine, to get the CAS out?? Got ii replaced ions pipe of the hick-up, and she was leaking. The old ring had a flat spot all the way around from all they years, and broke easily when I pulled on it... Hopefully this is the end of the leaks... as least for now... Differential is weaping a little, maybe I'll tackle that next. Of course I got blood on it... never doing anything without blood...
Thank you changed my CAS O ring today with the help from your video. I as you did I put a scribe on the casing so I matched it up. Is it necessary to have timing done? I aligned it back as it was but just want to check what you think. Thanks again Miata Man 👌
Really enjoying the content. Keep it going. I have a low mileage 1999 NB. Lots of mixed information about oil. Wonder if hat engine oil weight you recommend ?
Thanks Daniel 👍 I would stick to high quality 5w30 oil. 10w30 would be fine for the hotter months of the year. I run synthetic in my cars and change it on the same schedule as normal oil. Every 5,000.kms / 3,000.miles.
Thanks for that..Should save me some digging down low in the front of the engine as in my Mk2.5. So why are there people advertising crank position sensors that they say are for Mk1 1.6 but look like the same as the one for my 2.5? Are they just wrong?
I have been lucky enough to buy a local 1990 NA which was bought off of the show room floor. I have known all of the owners personally. We all worked in the same department at a local university. At the moment, I am completing a coolant reroute and in doing so are replacing the o-ring on the CAS. Working in that tight space has not been enjoyable. Getting the surface clean enough to re-install the heater hose coupling has been a struggle. I did not remove the valve cover as you have. I am a person who is mechanically inclined but very much an amateur hobbyists which has a great respect for the history of the car and its development. I have befriended the head parts manager at the local dealership where the car was purchased originally. He knows of my keen interest and gifted me the original shop manual which belongs with the car. This car was the first Miata that was sold by this dealership. Not that this matters but it is something which endears the car to me even more. I thought you might enjoy this little story. I expect not many owners can say they know the history of their car and able to document its life as the car which I now own. The car has 142 k miles. At 100k one of the previous owners had the short nose crank replaced with the stronger crank. So at 100k the engine at least got a bottom job. I expect they didn’t pull the engine. That is just a guess. I don’t know if they did a ring and hone job at that time. None of the original mechanics are still working there so there is no one to ask about that. By the time I got the car, it was in a sad shape cosmetically. I had it repainted and my wife and I put a new canvas top on it plus new seat covers and a few things to replace worn items. The cursed water plug is why I am at the point of this lengthy story. I figure if I am force to deal with the rear of the engine an upgrade might as well be done. Thank you for your videos. The production of the images is a job in itself and I for one appreciate your efforts. They are a great help to me.
Thanks for taking the time to share your car’s story. It’s rare to be able to track a car though it’s whole 30 year life span.
Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks for the recording ...did mine today, with the cam cover on...(I replaced that gasket when I did the timing belt/waterpump etc.. didn't want to mess with it.. it was not leaking at all.
I could not get the CAS our from behind the engine, so I used a plastic interior panel tool and easy broke the decomposing "O" ring off, and put the new one on without bringing the sensor out from behind the engine... a little tricky, put got her done...
Those two keys on the CAS are almost the same, and hard to see which cam cut out matches with a mirror... one is about a half a mm wider... Seeing that after a bit the orientation was easier, and got it pretty quick... It looked more apparent on your recording?
Incidentally I removed the engine pick bracket, and still couldn't clear firewall and the back of the engine, to get the CAS out?? Got ii replaced ions pipe of the hick-up, and she was leaking. The old ring had a flat spot all the way around from all they years, and broke easily when I pulled on it... Hopefully this is the end of the leaks... as least for now... Differential is weaping a little, maybe I'll tackle that next.
Of course I got blood on it... never doing anything without blood...
What a legend
Did these things come with crank shaft sensor? Im engine swapping my b2000 with a 1.6L and was wondering if there was one on these engines.
Thank you changed my CAS O ring today with the help from your video. I as you did I put a scribe on the casing so I matched it up. Is it necessary to have timing done? I aligned it back as it was but just want to check what you think.
Thanks again Miata Man 👌
Excellent work 👍
There’s no need to re-time the car if you didn’t change the original position of the CAS.
Thank you that’s put my mind at ease.
Really enjoying the content. Keep it going. I have a low mileage 1999 NB. Lots of mixed information about oil. Wonder if hat engine oil weight you recommend ?
Thanks Daniel 👍
I would stick to high quality 5w30 oil.
10w30 would be fine for the hotter months of the year.
I run synthetic in my cars and change it on the same schedule as normal oil.
Every 5,000.kms / 3,000.miles.
Now do one for the 98-04 Miatas :d
As this is on the top of the engine is this actually a cam angle sensor rather than a crank position sensor?
On the 1.6L cars it does both.
Thanks for that..Should save me some digging down low in the front of the engine as in my Mk2.5.
So why are there people advertising crank position sensors that they say are for Mk1 1.6 but look like the same as the one for my 2.5? Are they just wrong?