LG or Kenmore Washer Won't Run and Makes Noise - Solving the LG Error Code
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- If you own an LG or Kenmore washer (either top or front load) and you get the LE code that forces the machine to not run, I will show you how to diagnose and fix this problem, step-by-step.
The typical culprit is the RPS (Rotor Position Sensor), but I also show you a few other things that could be the issue as well, and show you how to diagnose a faulty RPS with a multimeter.
LG Rotor Position Sensor: bens-appliance...
LG Rotor Hub: bens-appliance...
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Not only are Ben's videos incredibly helpful, but so is he. His videos have helped my grandparents save their Kenmore 796 Washer twice already--Ben also sells the parts online at a better rate. Give this man a TV show!
Usally, i don't have problem with my washer, but i love watching some repair videos, like yours, keep the great job!
mate you are a legend~!~ found a LG on roadside.. keeps LE code.. looked through tons of "expert" videos.. nothing.. then found yours! Thats EXACTLY the problem, after watching, tested the sensor and yup... first one 9.86, second one.. zero! nothing.. ordered an after market one from ebay, $12.13Aud SO DEFINATLEY worth the small cost to fix machine.. now have to wait for it to arrived! cheers!
Glad I could help! I love my Aussie viewers. I am glad you were able to purchase a replacement for yours. Since you're down under, I do have to ask, what are the popular brands and styles there? I always want to make sure my content is usable everywhere if possible.
Thanks Ben! The position sensor is what it was, huge separation on the ohm meter reader readings was the tell tale sign. Thanks for helping to make this an easy fix vs. an expensive new washer purchase!
wow.. this video helped me to fix my washer saved me $300
Nice!
as always, a great diagnosis and explanation
Other videos from others forget to mention the nylon hub possibly being the culprit
I’ve had this model with an obvious obstruction as the tub with suddenly lock up as you’re spinning it by hand that’s a job I walk away from sorry I don’t have the time for that 😅
Thank you, Ben. Your video saved me a great deal of money and I learned something in the process. You have a new subscriber.
I have this same washer so this video may come in very handy in the future! Thanks!
Does the rotor have a specific “timing” that I need to be concerned about? Or is it as long as the splines line up on the shaft, it doesn’t matter how it goes on? Thank you so much for your content! You just saved me a ton fixing my washer. You've become my go-to regarding appliance repair. My next job I need to tackle is replacing the plastic drip pan under my Amanda Bottom freezer, French door refrigerator. I’ll be combing through your videos to if you’ve addressed it. Thanks again!
Keep pumping these fix it videos out i love them. I wanna learn as much as possible lol.
ON a LE error if no RPS sensor on rotor then it is in the main computer on some models and you must replace the computer,,, that loud noise when RPS is going out is electricity power at the stator not knowing which way to turn,,, the RPS plug wires do brake so pull on them to see if they come off at the plug connecter it is always the BLUE wire that is bad or broken i have seen this so many times... and OHM out the stator itself should be from 10-13K,,, i have many of these go bad.. check very close the wire harness at the tub clamp to the plug of the rotor i saw one where it was damage from flexing only seen one do that it was black & burnt... now to hold the rotor tight: just use a screw driver flat blade into the rotor and it will rest against the stator inside of the rotor and be very careful not to hold the screwdriver against the coil wire stacks, just place the screwdriver on the stator white plastic housing and you will be able to keep the rotor from turning to loosen and tighten the large bolt no problem... now there is a way to check the RPS sensor with a DMM at the plug connector at the main computer by touching your leads to it and OHM out the harness when turning the rotor slow by hand to read the OHMS it you want to... it is very fast and easy..
I remember the "Lucky Goldstar" microwaves.
As for why the position sensor would cause such a noise, think about that characteristic sound that stepper motors make - like in scanners and CNC machines and such. Much higher pitch but then these washers are a very large, very heavy stepper motor... with no position feedback it's likely just thumping back and forth between two of the however many poles the motor has.
Great video. Thank you for sharing. Is this direct drive motor washing machine ?
Yes
Thanks for the video. Any torque specifications for the two different size bolts?
Replaced RPS sensor, washer running. Thanks
Hi Ben, I am enjoying watching your videos, having recently discovered your channel. My neighbor gave me an Amana commercial quality washer and dryer pair a couple years ago. They had been in storage for 15 years so they were like new and I love them. They were built in 1998 and are obviously old-school. I am trying to find out more about them since the instruction manuals were not given to me. The model numbers are: LWA80AW (washer) and LEA80AW (dryer). I am wondering if they were built by Speed Queen. Any information you could steer me toward would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Only once have I ever had a broken wire on the stator harness. Also, once it was due to a leak in the water valve directly above the stator.
LE error almost always requires changing the stator. The position sensor is almost always part of the stator and not separable. Maybe different in the US? I've never seen one.
Very impressive! Interesting since I own an LG washer. Hoping this isn’t an inappropriate place to ask this question, but my LG washer is 12-14 yr old and we’ve loved it the whole time. At this point, it’s beginning to show its age, with a bit more noise and vibration from years of overloading from our family of five. I’d REALLY rather repair it than buy new since it’s longest cycle is only ~1:15 vs 2:45 or so with my son’s machine (~5 yr newer), more water efficient, but so slow. Can such a machine be repaired and how does one find a good service provider?
At that age your bearings and spider arm should be bad, time to buy a new one.
@@Android_Warrior Thanks for the reply, but I’m mostly concerned about the poorer reliability and grossly longer cycle times of the newer machines. Would it really cost more than a new machine to replace these parts? Or is there something equally expensive lurking around in my beloved washer just waiting to fail? I really would prefer to spend up to the price of a new machine if that promised a good chance of 8 or so years more service…
@@heymikeyh9577 : If you are not capable of doing the job yourself then paying some one else would be very expensive, it involve rebuilding the washer and that with parts and labor would be the price of a new one.
@@Android_Warrior No handyman skills here, but as i said, I’d gladly pay the price of a new one to put the old one right, IF I could be confident it would last another 8+ years. If I were to replace the components you mentioned, what do you think the chances are? Apologies for taking up your time, but I REALLY hate waste (only buy cars with 100k+ and run them until there’s nothing left) and as I mentioned before, the old washer is superior to most of what’s available new.
It'd be hard and insanely expensive, but if you found someone that was super serious about LG washers, you could maybe see if a brand new tub could be ordered and installed. If it was me, I'd just get a new tub+stator+rotor combo. Everything else isn't really going to age, but that'd give you a new bearing and bracket system where you would see the most failures, imho
Hey Ben. So I ordered replacement pieces for the motor and the rotter magnets and sensor. When I assembled it I now am getting squeaking and some restriction when I spin the tub. When the magnets are not assembled it spins just fine but as soon as I attach the rotter which is new I get the squeaking again. Suggestions? Thank you.
I think if nylon is still decent but somewhat worn on rotor splines some teflon tape on tub spline will take up space and cut down on friction.
that rotor is subjected to incredible torque turning back and forth that shaft has a tremendous amount of resistance on the turning action, so you say just put a little tape on it and or a band-aid and everything will be just fine ???
@@johncasor9698 No as a preventative or until new one arrives. Once the spline is gone it's over.
What’s your thoughts on the GE Profile washer/dryer combo? If it works as advertised seems like a game changer.
I really desperately want to try one to show it off. But at $3,000 I really don't know if I want to invest that kind of money into the machine
I detest computers, especially in appliances and cars.❤❤❤
You can’t escape computers. They’re everywhere now
Thank you
what if I did everything you suggested and it still makes the noise and stops with a LE code???? Please respond. I am stumped!!
on behalf of everyone here... 3 cheers for Ben.. HIP HIP HORRAY! HIP HIP HORRAY! HIP HIP HORRAY!.. everyone thumbs up and subscribe to help Bens YT channel
Where were you 5 years ago when our LG front load washer died? It was about 10 years old and was very heavily used. Owed us nothing.
It's not that hard to pull off, the rotor