Aaron!!! Thank you for this video. This was really good and comprehensive. The only thing I did differently was shove the mallet's handle in the can, and with the mallet head on the ground, let the can fall and allowed gravity to take over. That way you don't run the risk of damaging the inside wall of the can. Easy peasy.
Great video and thanks for taking the time to make this excellent instruction on how to remove the db killers. The same trick can be done on the Ducati Scrambler 1100 Akrapovic aftermarket cans.
Please keep doing bike builds whether on here or the Red Bull motor sports channel. You got an amazing talent of building and modifying bikes. Stick with it on your own if you have to I guarantee you a little marketing and you’ll will blow up quick. You have the great content.
Just for reference the Allen bolt heads retaining the baffles in are 4mm but if you round them off as I did the outside of them is 8mm bolt head so not is all lost
Thanks for this video, I just did this today, the Allen bolts right where you said. Bad news was I think there may have been a spot weld or something on the top pipe. Ended up needing to drill out that bolt. Sounds way better though now.
I just did mine. I had an 8mm bolt with a spot weld holding each of my baffles in. My holes started out looking good, until I realized I had to get a socket in there. But, some rubber caps pretty much covered my butchery ! Had to take the mufflers off to tap the baffles out.
I gave this a go. Unfortunately for me, whoever did the welds on the Allen bolts didn’t do a simple tack weld on the top bolt, but rather a full weld that stopped the bolt from turning at all. I immediately stripped the 4mm Allen inner, then stripped the 8mm hex outer. In the end, I had to drill the bolt stem completely out. 18 minute job? More like 18 hours on my bike.
That is unfortunate. I just did it yesterday and it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish. I had resigned myself to pulling off the cans, so I was prepared. The real question is, was it worth it? My answer is yes.
It seems to me that the original hole was just offset by 60°. Wouldn't it be cleaner if you just drilled out the rivets and twisted the cap one hole clockwise? Then you'd be able to access that screw via the original hole. Awesome mod either way. Sound deeper and the pops make it. Cheers!
It was about that much rotation. It would have also been a good solution to remove the rivets and rotate the direction of the hole but with the time investment and having difficulty in the past finding the high end finish rivets this seemed like the best method for time invested with satisfactory looks.
Someone tried this and found that this won't reveal the bolt. This is the best and easiest way with the least risk of damaging the endcaps(they are pretty tight sometimes needing a lot of force to remove them). On the Ducati Scrambler Akra's the same trick can be used(that is where this whole thing was discovered in the first place).
Could you tell me more about the 93 octane build you did a while back I would really appreciate it I’ve been trying to get a hold of you for about a year now thanks
Hi man cant u make a video ehen u take of the exhaust baffles and the big box under the bike its youst pops off but u need a pip to fitt it so curious to here the sound. Greatings from sweden. Sorry for my bad swenglish
I would want a full exhaust without the restrictive cats in the way, then a tune. You would probably save 15-20 lbs. That's just me. Since there are no emissions inspections on bikes I see no issue.
Please, for the love of all that is holy, don’t do this to that beautiful exhaust. 1) Drill out the rivets, 2) cut/grind the welds to separate the end cap from the internal piece that the baffle mounts to, 3) remove the bolt, and viola. I took mine to a machine shop, they 4) welded the pieces back together for $20 and now the holes are aligned so I can put the baffles back in any time I want. 5) Rivet end cap back to the can. Easy peasy, no unsightly extra holes, no one would ever know I took the can apart by looking.
Good video, does the new Project SE pipe you mentioned have one or two end cans ? I am not a huge fan of the two ,over and under style as the standard has.
great video man! As you mentioned in the video, the baffle removal only helped a little bit with sound. What are some louder exhaust options you recommend for this bike? links would be great! thanks
I will be receiving mine next week. They said it would be a few more weeks until they are ready for shipping. They will be available through Motovationusa.com
HA! I hate you for making that look so easy. Got a single high mount on an XSR900 the back box is welded to the pipe so can't go in through the back. I wonder if there is an hex bolt in mine at the same location because i've drilled the welded area out and can't get the baffle to budge for than about 3mm.
while this was quicker/easier, why not drill out the rivets and re-rivet the tip back on.. then no need for a grommet for the hole and more professional job/appearance. also, how's removing the baffles affecting that back pressure / factory tune?
@@shouldhavereloaded what do you mean, "loss in compression". you're not losing any compression. that takes place in the engine.. cylinder/head/piston/stroke. you're losing back pressure which usually equates to loss in low end power i believe. can sometimes cause a bit of a lean condition as well. i just removed the baffles from my triump speed triple rs. i drilled the rivets.. no need for a 1/2" hole and a grommet/plug. but yes, you could do 1 can as you said though. there is no real reason for 2 as long as the muffler piping doesn't taper down a size.
Cl9sed Circuit Only PLEASE! Bike sounds shit and is restricted with the baffles in.....Great Bike.....Harleys, Ducatis and others are louder anyway. So its a No brainer.....Besides Loud Pipes Saves Lives!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Aaron!!! Thank you for this video. This was really good and comprehensive.
The only thing I did differently was shove the mallet's handle in the can, and with the mallet head on the ground, let the can fall and allowed gravity to take over. That way you don't run the risk of damaging the inside wall of the can.
Easy peasy.
Peace out? How wonderfully trendy.
Love the FTR.
Great video and thanks for taking the time to make this excellent instruction on how to remove the db killers.
The same trick can be done on the Ducati Scrambler 1100 Akrapovic aftermarket cans.
Please keep doing bike builds whether on here or the Red Bull motor sports channel. You got an amazing talent of building and modifying bikes. Stick with it on your own if you have to I guarantee you a little marketing and you’ll will blow up quick. You have the great content.
Just for reference the Allen bolt heads retaining the baffles in are 4mm but if you round them off as I did the outside of them is 8mm bolt head so not is all lost
Thanks for this video, I just did this today, the Allen bolts right where you said. Bad news was I think there may have been a spot weld or something on the top pipe. Ended up needing to drill out that bolt. Sounds way better though now.
He sounds like a good mom .
I just did mine. I had an 8mm bolt with a spot weld holding each of my baffles in. My holes started out looking good, until I realized I had to get a socket in there. But, some rubber caps pretty much covered my butchery ! Had to take the mufflers off to tap the baffles out.
You know that you're a good mechanic when what ever you drop always finds it's way to the middle of the thing that is blocking you from grabbing it.
Sounds brilliant, thanks for sharing this video.
Is there any need to flash the ecu for this? Thank you. Sounds great
I gave this a go. Unfortunately for me, whoever did the welds on the Allen bolts didn’t do a simple tack weld on the top bolt, but rather a full weld that stopped the bolt from turning at all.
I immediately stripped the 4mm Allen inner, then stripped the 8mm hex outer. In the end, I had to drill the bolt stem completely out.
18 minute job? More like 18 hours on my bike.
That is unfortunate. I just did it yesterday and it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish. I had resigned myself to pulling off the cans, so I was prepared.
The real question is, was it worth it? My answer is yes.
This worked great. Thank you.
good job, better not to miss the price of an AKRAPOVIC exhaust, personally I would have installed an S&S exhaust for the look ✌
I drilled out rivets and the turned internal sleeve after cutting thin Weald off all back to normal with no extra holes
Great project
disclaimer, this does not work on an FTR 1200 base model. The S has Akra pipes but the basic model is an oem part from Indian.
Wow, Aaron Colton, cool 😎
why not to remove rivets, and shift cover to align with actual bolt?
When you dropping vids of the SC Projects pipe?!
just buy a link pipe & a knock off slip on for $100 unless you are getting titanium headers or something
It seems to me that the original hole was just offset by 60°. Wouldn't it be cleaner if you just drilled out the rivets and twisted the cap one hole clockwise? Then you'd be able to access that screw via the original hole. Awesome mod either way. Sound deeper and the pops make it. Cheers!
It was about that much rotation. It would have also been a good solution to remove the rivets and rotate the direction of the hole but with the time investment and having difficulty in the past finding the high end finish rivets this seemed like the best method for time invested with satisfactory looks.
Someone tried this and found that this won't reveal the bolt. This is the best and easiest way with the least risk of damaging the endcaps(they are pretty tight sometimes needing a lot of force to remove them).
On the Ducati Scrambler Akra's the same trick can be used(that is where this whole thing was discovered in the first place).
Still waiting for a vid on this SC Project Titanium exhaust that you had done for the FTR1200
amazing!!!
thanks dude
so purchase the PV3 then do you need the map fron Lloydz ?????
Could you tell me more about the 93 octane build you did a while back I would really appreciate it I’ve been trying to get a hold of you for about a year now thanks
Hi man cant u make a video ehen u take of the exhaust baffles and the big box under the bike its youst pops off but u need a pip to fitt it so curious to here the sound. Greatings from sweden. Sorry for my bad swenglish
I would want a full exhaust without the restrictive cats in the way, then a tune. You would probably save 15-20 lbs. That's just me. Since there are no emissions inspections on bikes I see no issue.
Great 👍🏻 thanks
Please, for the love of all that is holy, don’t do this to that beautiful exhaust. 1) Drill out the rivets, 2) cut/grind the welds to separate the end cap from the internal piece that the baffle mounts to, 3) remove the bolt, and viola. I took mine to a machine shop, they 4) welded the pieces back together for $20 and now the holes are aligned so I can put the baffles back in any time I want. 5) Rivet end cap back to the can. Easy peasy, no unsightly extra holes, no one would ever know I took the can apart by looking.
Why though? Fuck the baffles
The baffle retaining bolts on my bike were tack welded and were not easy to remove.
Need a flyby with the new exhaust, let her sing!!
bennymangina11 I will have some riding action up next week!
Good video, does the new Project SE pipe you mentioned have one or two end cans ? I am not a huge fan of the two ,over and under style as the standard has.
great video man! As you mentioned in the video, the baffle removal only helped a little bit with sound. What are some louder exhaust options you recommend for this bike? links would be great! thanks
replace the cat with a midpipe and then see if it's loud
Moh moh aku di kaitke Israel...
Hi man
Waiting for a vid from you
What's up?
When’s this SC Projects system dropping for the public???
I will be receiving mine next week. They said it would be a few more weeks until they are ready for shipping. They will be available through Motovationusa.com
HA! I hate you for making that look so easy. Got a single high mount on an XSR900 the back box is welded to the pipe so can't go in through the back. I wonder if there is an hex bolt in mine at the same location because i've drilled the welded area out and can't get the baffle to budge for than about 3mm.
What jeans are these?
Trilobite Parado Jeans
while this was quicker/easier, why not drill out the rivets and re-rivet the tip back on.. then no need for a grommet for the hole and more professional job/appearance. also, how's removing the baffles affecting that back pressure / factory tune?
@@shouldhavereloaded what do you mean, "loss in compression". you're not losing any compression. that takes place in the engine.. cylinder/head/piston/stroke. you're losing back pressure which usually equates to loss in low end power i believe. can sometimes cause a bit of a lean condition as well. i just removed the baffles from my triump speed triple rs. i drilled the rivets.. no need for a 1/2" hole and a grommet/plug. but yes, you could do 1 can as you said though. there is no real reason for 2 as long as the muffler piping doesn't taper down a size.
Cl9sed Circuit Only PLEASE! Bike sounds shit and is restricted with the baffles in.....Great Bike.....Harleys, Ducatis and others are louder anyway. So its a No brainer.....Besides Loud Pipes Saves Lives!
Le cameraman a du mal 🤔
Closed course only, huh? Must live in CA. Sorry to hear that.
Toys r us tool kit
Get Rid of the Cat and then Dyno. And then it will be how it should sound
Agama agama politk politk duso dusoku dewe amal amal dewe...
Raono sign iso naggung aku ngomong berbagi hal kui nahan keributan hak rak bener.
Amateur. Should've. Stepped up the size of bits. Instead of jumping straight to the 12mm. That's why you had problems running that bit
... aaaand you just made the bike illegal for street use in all of Europe.