Most, if not all, modern drum brakes are self-adjusting. On Honda’s, they self-adjust when you reverse and brake. They don’t self-adjust if the mechanism is seized or you don’t brake enough while reversing. Personally however, I have always found that drums still need to be adjusted to get it to an optimal spot. How to jack your vehicle up: ruclips.net/video/fs1Ams0rsrI/видео.html
Mine does this exactly but it sounds more like that last noise in your video. More creak creak creak. Any ideas? Its been like this ever since i put on new pads and switched the wheel bearing. I tried lengthining the adjustment a lot of clicks after having this for like 3 months . Maybe i have to go even further but it felt pretty tight when i spun it. I wonder if the shoe material was bad from the beginning? It almost sounds like the return spring but also like ots the shoes. When installed i greased the contact points on the back plate so i dont think thats the issue.
I dont think it would be the shoe material. The drum, where the shoes mate, that sufrace may not be perfectly straight so the new pads may not adhere to it properly. Brake shoes do have a pivot pin, that has to be greased in case you missed it. If you feel the noise is coming from one side, try switching the drums and see if the noise direction shifts. Sand down the drum surface and a bit on the brake shoe material. Then re-bed the brakes. Lastly, with the wheel on and off the ground spin it. Adjustment should not be tight and the wheel should spin mostly freely. You can hear rubbing noise of the shoes against the drum. If the sound isnt continuous in nature that could indicate the drum itself isnt properly round. Best to have that measured with a vernier caliper, to see if distance at different points is more or less the same. Anothing thing coming to mind (but as a last resort if your sure everything else checks out), the wheel bearing you changed. If, for whatever reason, the wheel bearing hub isnt straight then brake shoes wouldnt contact the drums evenly. Or part of the axle is off if you hit a pothole or something. OR the drum part check the mating surface where it goes against the hub. It should be clear from any rust (im assuming you resued the drums). That could cause the drum to sit unevenly. See the below video from 5:50-9:00 mark. It is disc but same principle for the drum. ruclips.net/video/mW3Uqqi61BM/видео.html
I have 2 torque wrenches. 1 - Precision Instruments PREC2FR100F Wrench (3/8" Dr. Split Beam Torque w/Flex Head (20-100 Ft./Lbs) - From the US 2 - For small specd values - Warren & Brown Deflecting Beam Torque Wrench 3/8" drive 1 - 25Nm (1-18 Ft./Lbs) - From Australia
Hi im having the same issue i just got my brakes replaced like 2 months ago with some aftermarket parts i ordered the right rotors for my 99 civic lx but im not sure about the brake shoe if its for lx. Does the wrong shoe can cause this noise and skipping? Happens when braking thanks
Possibly, I couldnt say for sure. But I would think that if the brake shoes were physically smaller or bigger you would have issues fitting it properly. In the case of bigger you may not be able to fit the drum on. Do you have old ones to compare the size with? The drum part, did you replace or kept old one?
I replaced my drum brakes on 2002 jeep liberty a couple days ago. On the driver side I can smell the breaks and I feel heat. Could be the I need to adjust it as I didn’t do that or could the cylinder be bad ?
After replacement it must be adjusted. Now they would be too tight and you are constantly dragging against the brake shoes when driving, causing heat. When off the ground you should be able to spin the wheel farily easily, there should be a slight drag on it only.
One wheel at a time is prefectly fine. However, after adjustment and as a final test you could lift both off the ground to compare if both spin similar with similar amount of resistance. Just for peace of mind.
Hi, I got the rear drums, shoes and hardware replaced by a mechanic on my 2010 Corolla and I'm facing the same issue. He did readjust the drum a bit but said if it's too tight the brake will seize. He said after market parts may be the issue. I've already spent $350 on this, any advice on whether it's an adjustment issue or if it actually is the parts? The noise in the video is exactly what my car is making
It only happens on light braking? Yes it could be aftermarket parts, in the sense that if it doesn't meet OEM standards and is not properly round to being with. Best way would to be measure the diameter from the inside, if it is properly round. If it isnt then need to have it machined. Another thing, pad material needs to transfer on to the drum for optimal braking. Until then it may not grip properly. On an empty clear non busy road, drive at 40km/h and pull the handbrake up a few seconds - release it, do it again a few times. Do NOT pull it so hard that your wheels lock up, just enough that you can feel a reasonable (braking) resistance. That can help create a better bond between the pad and the drum surface.
Thank you for responding! It makes noise whenever the rear brake is engaged. At very low speeds (0-15km/h) I think the front brakes stop the car but any speed higher than that will continue to clunk. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try to pull the parking brake and report back. And just for general information, this sound is only caused by the shoes? Or could it be the hardware as well?
Front discs do maybe 70-80% of the braking. This sound is the shoes hitting the drum, it skips on it. It like bounces on the drum as you brake. Im not saying noise cant come from some other part, but most likely it is this.
@@saadsubhan7607 Front does the most braking. I would not say its dangerous. BUT, you are not getting optimal braking, stopping distance would be affected some. So I would get this issue sorted. Get the drum checked out, if it is properly round. Get it sanded to remove any small imperfections that may exist. You can swap the drums also, see if that helps. If your mechanic doesnt have a clue, go somewhere else.
Does this same principal apply with the parking brake? I hear a clanking noise and I think it is my handbrake shoes clanking. If I make them expand should this stop the noise?
@@TheWrenchWiz no… my noise only occurs after driving from a complete stop (after braking). Sometimes it will happen as I brake to a complete stop as well. It happens more when I take off slowly and goes away when I go to normal speeds.
@@Dnasty1 Clanking when driving and not braking. It could be the shoes are too tight. Not shown in my video, I did tighten one too much and it did the same thing, was fine after higher speeds. In this case I redcued the shoe distance. You want a little resistance only when turning the hub. After adjusting put the wheel on and spin it, until you feel/hear a little bit of resistance from the brake shoe. Sand the drum surface too, to remove any brake deposits that may be on it causing an uneven surface. The core issue is the same that the shoes are skipping on the drum surface.
@@TheWrenchWiz I was thinking this as well. But could it be the shoes are too loose? I think I loosened it until there was no resistance. Are the pads supposed to touch the rotor at all while it is spinning or only when the parking brake is engaged?
@@Dnasty1 Yes maybe it's too loose. When spinning there should be a slight resistance or touch. When you turn the wheel you can hear it slightly rubbing against the shoe or pad. Parking brake will engage the brake, same as if you press the brake pedal. Leave parking brake out of the equation for now. Adjust the rear brakes and test drive. Parking brake tightness can be adjusted later once you get the brake settings right.
Most, if not all, modern drum brakes are self-adjusting. On Honda’s, they self-adjust when you reverse and brake. They don’t self-adjust if the mechanism is seized or you don’t brake enough while reversing. Personally however, I have always found that drums still need to be adjusted to get it to an optimal spot.
How to jack your vehicle up: ruclips.net/video/fs1Ams0rsrI/видео.html
Great video specially including actual clunking noise in beginning
Thanks
Best tutorial on the topic I’ve seen on YT. Great job!!
Glad it was helpful! I'll keep at it to bring more useful content.
Wow!!! Thank you!!! Fantastic instructions and demo. Thank you !!
I liked how you stuck to the details and no unimportant filler. Thanks!!!
Cheers!
Man! I was hearing this same clunking noise in my honda city zx and was searching videos on how to fix it on yt glad I found your video subscribed✌️
Thanks!
Very helpful. New install (99 Civic) and this was driving me nuts. I was cautious about overtightening them. Great info!
Thanks, glad it helped.
Everything I needed to know. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
excellent video! Always nice when both how something works and why it isn't working are explained.
Glad you liked it!
That was cool and informative...mine is a Nissan Sentra 2013 and it may need to be done
Thanks.
Very helpful
Thanks
Excellent video! Thanks
Thanks
Excellent. Thanks a lot. Congratulations.
Thanks
Mine does this exactly but it sounds more like that last noise in your video. More creak creak creak. Any ideas? Its been like this ever since i put on new pads and switched the wheel bearing. I tried lengthining the adjustment a lot of clicks after having this for like 3 months . Maybe i have to go even further but it felt pretty tight when i spun it. I wonder if the shoe material was bad from the beginning? It almost sounds like the return spring but also like ots the shoes. When installed i greased the contact points on the back plate so i dont think thats the issue.
The last noise at the 0:04 mark?
Yea around 6 seconds. @@TheWrenchWiz
I dont think it would be the shoe material. The drum, where the shoes mate, that sufrace may not be perfectly straight so the new pads may not adhere to it properly. Brake shoes do have a pivot pin, that has to be greased in case you missed it.
If you feel the noise is coming from one side, try switching the drums and see if the noise direction shifts. Sand down the drum surface and a bit on the brake shoe material. Then re-bed the brakes.
Lastly, with the wheel on and off the ground spin it. Adjustment should not be tight and the wheel should spin mostly freely. You can hear rubbing noise of the shoes against the drum. If the sound isnt continuous in nature that could indicate the drum itself isnt properly round. Best to have that measured with a vernier caliper, to see if distance at different points is more or less the same.
Anothing thing coming to mind (but as a last resort if your sure everything else checks out), the wheel bearing you changed. If, for whatever reason, the wheel bearing hub isnt straight then brake shoes wouldnt contact the drums evenly. Or part of the axle is off if you hit a pothole or something. OR the drum part check the mating surface where it goes against the hub. It should be clear from any rust (im assuming you resued the drums). That could cause the drum to sit unevenly. See the below video from 5:50-9:00 mark. It is disc but same principle for the drum.
ruclips.net/video/mW3Uqqi61BM/видео.html
I have the same issue is it okay if I drive my car to the mechanic shop around 4km?
Yea should be fine. Front brakes do majority of the braking.
Pls give details on the torque wrench
I have 2 torque wrenches.
1 - Precision Instruments PREC2FR100F Wrench (3/8" Dr. Split Beam Torque w/Flex Head (20-100 Ft./Lbs) - From the US
2 - For small specd values - Warren & Brown Deflecting Beam Torque Wrench 3/8" drive 1 - 25Nm (1-18 Ft./Lbs) - From Australia
Hi im having the same issue i just got my brakes replaced like 2 months ago with some aftermarket parts i ordered the right rotors for my 99 civic lx but im not sure about the brake shoe if its for lx. Does the wrong shoe can cause this noise and skipping? Happens when braking thanks
Possibly, I couldnt say for sure. But I would think that if the brake shoes were physically smaller or bigger you would have issues fitting it properly. In the case of bigger you may not be able to fit the drum on. Do you have old ones to compare the size with?
The drum part, did you replace or kept old one?
Same with mine
Easily resolvable. Drums last longer and are cheaper, but when theres a problem its more annoying.
I replaced my drum brakes on 2002 jeep liberty a couple days ago. On the driver side I can smell the breaks and I feel heat. Could be the I need to adjust it as I didn’t do that or could the cylinder be bad ?
After replacement it must be adjusted. Now they would be too tight and you are constantly dragging against the brake shoes when driving, causing heat.
When off the ground you should be able to spin the wheel farily easily, there should be a slight drag on it only.
Do I have to have the whole rear end off the ground or can I just jack up one wheel at a time? And adjust it.
One wheel at a time is prefectly fine.
However, after adjustment and as a final test you could lift both off the ground to compare if both spin similar with similar amount of resistance. Just for peace of mind.
Thank you! I greatly appreciate it
Best of luck!
Hi, I got the rear drums, shoes and hardware replaced by a mechanic on my 2010 Corolla and I'm facing the same issue. He did readjust the drum a bit but said if it's too tight the brake will seize. He said after market parts may be the issue. I've already spent $350 on this, any advice on whether it's an adjustment issue or if it actually is the parts? The noise in the video is exactly what my car is making
It only happens on light braking?
Yes it could be aftermarket parts, in the sense that if it doesn't meet OEM standards and is not properly round to being with. Best way would to be measure the diameter from the inside, if it is properly round. If it isnt then need to have it machined.
Another thing, pad material needs to transfer on to the drum for optimal braking. Until then it may not grip properly. On an empty clear non busy road, drive at 40km/h and pull the handbrake up a few seconds - release it, do it again a few times. Do NOT pull it so hard that your wheels lock up, just enough that you can feel a reasonable (braking) resistance. That can help create a better bond between the pad and the drum surface.
Thank you for responding! It makes noise whenever the rear brake is engaged. At very low speeds (0-15km/h) I think the front brakes stop the car but any speed higher than that will continue to clunk. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try to pull the parking brake and report back.
And just for general information, this sound is only caused by the shoes? Or could it be the hardware as well?
Front discs do maybe 70-80% of the braking. This sound is the shoes hitting the drum, it skips on it. It like bounces on the drum as you brake. Im not saying noise cant come from some other part, but most likely it is this.
@@TheWrenchWiz It did make a noise when the brake was engaged but didn't seem to fix it after a tried it a couple of times. Is it safe to drive as is?
@@saadsubhan7607 Front does the most braking. I would not say its dangerous. BUT, you are not getting optimal braking, stopping distance would be affected some. So I would get this issue sorted.
Get the drum checked out, if it is properly round. Get it sanded to remove any small imperfections that may exist. You can swap the drums also, see if that helps.
If your mechanic doesnt have a clue, go somewhere else.
Does this same principal apply with the parking brake? I hear a clanking noise and I think it is my handbrake shoes clanking. If I make them expand should this stop the noise?
@Dnasty1 when do you hear the clanking noise? Same as in the video? Parking brake just engages the rear brakes whether it be drums or discs.
@@TheWrenchWiz no… my noise only occurs after driving from a complete stop (after braking). Sometimes it will happen as I brake to a complete stop as well. It happens more when I take off slowly and goes away when I go to normal speeds.
@@Dnasty1 Clanking when driving and not braking. It could be the shoes are too tight. Not shown in my video, I did tighten one too much and it did the same thing, was fine after higher speeds.
In this case I redcued the shoe distance. You want a little resistance only when turning the hub. After adjusting put the wheel on and spin it, until you feel/hear a little bit of resistance from the brake shoe. Sand the drum surface too, to remove any brake deposits that may be on it causing an uneven surface.
The core issue is the same that the shoes are skipping on the drum surface.
@@TheWrenchWiz I was thinking this as well. But could it be the shoes are too loose? I think I loosened it until there was no resistance. Are the pads supposed to touch the rotor at all while it is spinning or only when the parking brake is engaged?
@@Dnasty1 Yes maybe it's too loose. When spinning there should be a slight resistance or touch. When you turn the wheel you can hear it slightly rubbing against the shoe or pad.
Parking brake will engage the brake, same as if you press the brake pedal.
Leave parking brake out of the equation for now. Adjust the rear brakes and test drive. Parking brake tightness can be adjusted later once you get the brake settings right.
Not easy you will swear more than you ever had 😂😅
For sure! I'd take discs over drums everytime.