How To Flatten a Twisted Board By Hand
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2024
- How to flatten a board by hand with a scrub plane and jointer plane. hand plane method.
Join the Hive mind where I bounce Ideas around: / discord
Facebook Hivemind: / 233277323895597
Patreon: / woodbywright
Join this channel to get access to perks:
/ @woodbywright
How To Channel
Wood By Wright 2: / @woodbywrighthowto
--Tools I Suggest--
www.woodbywright.com/tool-sug...
--Find Antique tools near you--
www.HandToolFinder.com
THE MAN
Michael Kelewae: / @kelewaekreation
Top Patreon Supporters:
DFM tool Works: dfmtoolworks.com/
Russell Gough
Brian Suker
Rich Dodson
Sherlock
Brett Lance
Daniel McGrath
Ian McElcheran
Christopher Brown
JT Belknap: dfmtoolworks.com/
Kenny-Anjanette Horn
Andrew Wilson
////Help this channel grow\\\\
www.woodbywright.com/support/
////You Can find me:\\\\
www.woodbywright.com/contact-me/
TikTok: / woodbywright
Instagram: / woodbywright
Facebook: / woodbywright
Intro music: Tim Sway timsway.net/
background music: Udo Stehle www.upwork.com/freelancers/~0...
Instagram: @udostehle - Хобби
I'm really glad you made this, James. I've only used my scrub plane a couple of times and I thought I was doing something wrong the whole time. It's like planing a gravel road. And it's hard to push. Watching and, more importantly, hearing what it sounds like when you scrub the wood, reassures me that I did ok. I'll try it again now. Thanks!
Yeah the scrub plane sure sounds like it's only being sharpened every few months😂.
But that's the reason I love those chanel it's not all razor sharp and silky smooth but the real deal.
I had a similar experience with my chisels, I thought I made a bad purchase until I heard James say that no edge lasts long when you're chopping out a mortise in oak.
Watching this, I now understand why some of my boards start out of flat, become flat, then end up being out of true.
Thank you, James. Detailed and concise as always.
With that scrub plane you can really take the twist DOWN BELOW 😂❤
Comment down below! But seriously, you have some of the most informative hand tool videos. Thank you very much!
Thanks for another great video. I know many people say "you don't need a foreplane" but I absolutely love mine - I had to clean up a load of very rough lumber and found it a breeze to clean up with my number 6,
I struggled trueing edges with twist. Applying a similar board flattening method to thin edges was a headache because the geometry of a jointer plane traversing a twisted edge combined with a cambered iron made spot planing difficult. I got on much better with a straight iron applying pressure where it needs to be. Chasing 90° on a twisted edge while maintaining a straight edge is something I've not seen explained much on RUclips. I'd like to see your order of operations. Thanks!
I made a pair of whining sticks, and they wouldn’t stop complaining about one always being closer to me.
Amazing how that scrub plane magically changed. I blinked and missed it, then watched that section a couple of times. Apparently an advanced skill
Ok you got me on that one. What happened. I want to see it.
Right at 2:29 the plane in your hand magically changes. Visually interesting, likely an editing cut..@@WoodByWrightHowTo
Lol I did not see that in the edit. I switched but didn't mention it. LOL apparently didn't realize it from One clip to the next when editing LOL
I thought I was just crazy
FEWTELL, the secret to stock preparation.
As you say, you justcovered the firsttwo steps:Face, Edge
I recently got a scrub plane after years of resistance to it. There is nothing like it. It’s kind of like the draw knife of planes. It removes a remarkable amount of material fast.
When you were talking about the length of the plane gliding over low spots that it all made sense for the first time. I received a lot of planes from my wife's grandfather's estate, and am slowly fixing them up. I need to finish that and start using them, so thanks too for all the refurbishment of old tools. You would be perfect if you'd just get a better source for your dad jokes... 🙂
Love my scrub plane, an old wooden one from Germany, very light and nice to use.
Thank you I feel much more confident now that I'm not removing to much or to little material
I was always under the impression that "Tried and True" came from trying a maneuver and finding it worked, although that is pretty much what you're saying with tyring (try-square) and true (straight). My less woodworking centric understanding can apply to anything from greasing a bearing to taking medicine for a headache.
Tried and true. Nice!
I like how james hits the really big high spots of flatening a boad! Cheers mate
Thx James!
Thanks James. Only problem is you just inspired me. I've got a piece of apple i chainsawed rough coup,e of years ago. Think I'll start flattening one side. Then I'm going to cheat and use my planer for side2
Very informative! Thanks very much
Terrific summary. Clear, complete, but not too much detail. Thanks very much, James.
Thank you!
Thank you, Rex Krueger for passing on that info.
Thanks for sharing.
This was so helpful, thank you!
Thanks for sharing that!
This is my comment down below. There are others like it, but this one is mine.
This is a great tutorial on how to get from even as rough as a fresh froe cut bit of firewood down to a plank ready to finish.
Really enjoy your channel. Thank you!
Excellent! Thank you.
Great video, James!
Well presented James
Great lesson
Thanks James
So simple this way, Thanks!
Great video! Tank you
Very good presentation of the flattening process using scrub plane, jointer and smoother. 👍🏻👏🏻
And not to worry - you do not need to include anything from Rex to make the videos interesting 😂…but the tried and true fact was quite good! Thank you James…and Rex 🤭👌🏼
Life goals: make a board “flat as a board.”
Great summary - I'll definitely be using this order of operations when I explain how to flatten a board.
Great learning video!!
Great timing. I was scrubbing and jointing thin stock last night for a dresser
thanks James, hoping the move is going well.
Good video. I've tried making boards from downed trees that I find in the forest. They always come out very rough looking, because I'm doing it in camp with very few tools to work with.
You gave me some ideas that might help them come out a little nicer.
Maybe I won't have to keep listening to Twisted Sister.
Very helpful instructional video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
thanks
Well done! I heard (and read) this process explained many times but none quite so succinctly.
Really excellent tutorial, James! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Nice, I'm making windig sticks right now so they should help a lot
I have four different scrub planes and a #5 & #6 with nice shallow chamfers on them. They are my most used planes.
I just started a new job where we make single-piece slab tables. I'm coming off zero experience and they get me working straight away. I had to deal with a twisted board about 45mm thick. But they don't use hand tools. I had to use a belt sander (also to sand the face) and boy oh boy, I did not know the power of that machine. The valleys I created! Fixed it up on day two though.
Anyway, I wish I had watched this video before I went to work! Thanks for the tips. Also, you would absolutely love what's sitting around here. Once I'm in, I'll ask about taking the off cuts and see if there is some Japanese zelkova or, highly unlikely, some yakusugi I can send you.
Take care :)
So, are we going to get a video on the plane swap magic trick you pulled off at 2:29? That seems like a really useful skill.
Lol I forgot I put that in there 😂
At it again
Here's my snide comment:
At the start of the video, you set up the situation where the board was twisted AND too thick. What if the board is twisted but already the right thickness? You didn't explain how to fix that! I think you're not able to address the hard questions!
Seriously, I enjoyed this video and learned some good information.
Tried and true video, excellent explanation as is tradition from this smooth channel
Thank you for this great scrub in practise explanation. What I wonder is, how do you ensure the jointer is set to take about 0.03" while a smother is set to 0.001"?
You can see, feel and even hear the difference in shavings
Nicely done James! No need for a snide comment as RUclips will just scrub it out 🙄🙄
Snide remark!!!
Great video! What kind of iron is in your No. 4 smoother?
That is a ZenWu iron.
Great video - thanks for posting. Flattening with planes doesn’t look so scary now.
I haven’t got a jointer yet. What size plane is a jointer?
Ken Myerscough, Southport UK
When it comes to the names of planes it has more to do with how you use it and then the actual plane. But most people consider a six and larger to be a jointer
Do you have a video on making winding sticks?
I've got a few videos showing that. But most of them are older I might need to redo the one sometime. Here is one. ruclips.net/video/wfVp9D8mg_c/видео.htmlsi=r1xjRFzgRgUUXKkq
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you
Good vid, I am a rookie, and just got some planes. What kind of finish can you use on a surface that smooth.
You can use any finish you want. They'll have different pros and cons.
Hope the move is going well or went well
We're in the house now. But I'm not going to start getting the shop set up for another couple weeks
@@WoodByWrightHowTo congratulations
Any recommendations for holding twisted wood still and level without a vise? I’ve tried using shims with some success, but they often fall on the floor, allowing the wood to rock
You can run screws into the bench top or sacrificial board and let the heads stick up by the amount of twist.
Another great vid, James. Hope the move went well
Newb here trying to get some tools on a budget before starting my first project. Do you recommend a scrub plane for someone in my situation, and if so, which?
Generally no. Unless you plan on doing a lot with rough sawn wood. In that case get an old junkie plane and modify it into a scrub plane.
I'm tired and true. Does that count?
Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but instead of the chamfer to prevent blowout can't I just turn the board around so I'm always working towards the center?
Yes. That is very doable!
What plane are you using for your scrub plane?
In this case I was using an actual scrub plane from stanley. The number 40. But I turned the number five into a scrub/fore plane
I find it very difficult to plane the edge of the board square to the face. Any secrets or is it just practice, practice, practice?
It is a bit of skill development, but it is focusing on just hitting the high spots
How to remove the smile from a wooden bord
Comment down below
Hi there,
At this point I have a question that always worries me. Is it normal that, when we say that I have planed the whole of the board in this size, that the planes become dull? The cutting edge of the iron bends upwards. The plane no longer has traction and in front of the chip breaker the chips look like a scraper. With woods like teak or rosewood, this happens after what feels like half an hour.
I find this worst on the Nr. 5 low angle.
However, I only grind to 3000 grit, without the ruler trick or micro bevel. I think the sharpening works quite well and the edge is really good.
Is this normal or should I sharpen the edge more?
Sorry my English is not the best, I hope you understand what I mean.
Greetings from deepest Bavaria.
Florian
It all depends on the wood you are using and how good the steel is on your iron but for hardwoods like rosewood that's not uncommon at all to have to sharpen it every board.
Some woods - like teak, especially - have a high silica content that can be absolute murder on hand tool edges. Sharpening more often is just part of working with those materials.
Snide remark down below.
Comments down below
For obvious reasons, I am a little concerned about this. How was it determined that the board no longer wanted to be twisted? There some that embrace it as a lifestyle...
Comment down below.
CDB
What jointer for a beginner? Lie Nielsen is $500, Veritas is $400, chinese premium (like wood river) is $369, indian premium (taytools) is $150, vintage is $150-$200 (but I don't know how much work it is to tune such a thing). ECE wood ones are $250. Vintage transitionals are really cheap, like well under $100. I'm leaning torwards wood so it's not as heavy? Though I'm not seeing any japanese planes that are nearly as long...
I got the taytools #6, works fine. Good plane.
I would suggest a 6 Stanley antique. You will learn a lot from your planer during the restoration, respect her and look after it. When buying, pay attention to the iron itself, there must be no rust on it.
They work really well, new 6 and 7s can't be compared in terms of weight and handling in my opinion.
That is all a personal preference. You can buy an antique for around 50 to $60 at a tool meet, and that's usually the direction I tell people to go. But some people like something to be fully set up and ready to go. A lot of other people really like the feel of a wooden plane. So in the end it just kind of comes down to personal preference.
A few “influencers” have made negative comments about #6 planes. So I found one for under $10. A bit of work (even new planes need work), it’s taking beautiful shavings. It a great substitute for a 7 and a 5. I also have a 3 and a junior jack (5 1/4) because they were inexpensive. These work well in lieu of a 4 or whatever. I also don’t have a scrub, but I think I could get the board flat maybe 30 secs slower by just do some swipes high corner to high corner. I am always somewhat surprised at how quickly a board can be flattened with hand planes. All plane irons need be sharpened often various RUclips show how to do that quickly and inexpensively.
Comment up above!
Someone's always got to hold their phone upside down LOL
@@WoodByWrightHowTo nah. I'm just a bit subversive.
How to keep it from not moving again overnight?! Twisted boards always seem to wanna move again because of the uneven amounts of material removed
Usually the amount of movement is well within the flexibility of the wood but if you're working in a high humid change environment you may want to hold off on flattening until you're ready to do your joinery.
Yeah, I have tried lately to do as much of the project as possible right after final dimensioning. As some one with some physical limitations it can be deflating to put time and effort into flattening a board, be exhausted at the end, rest and find it to be cupped the next morning 😡
Ok so hear me out something like a card scraper but also on a 90 degree angle like a square?
What for? I can't see a use for it if I'm honest. When you're jointing an edge, and have done this more than a few dozen times, you can pretty much feel when it's square (your fingers on your forward hand will usually be dropped below the sole of the plane, in contact with the board below and you very quickly learn to guage the angle). Given that a jointed edge will generally not be that thick (the thickness of the board, I mean), it's rare that you need to scrape unless in the case of a severe knot, and even rarer that the scraping will be enough to bring the board noticeably out of square in that small particular area. I don't think you'd ever be in the position to use a right angled scraper to bring a board into perfect square. If you were struggling for square, you'd be better off just putting a fence on your jointer plane.
Comment down below ⬇️
Ok, novice at planing. Can you define the numbers of these planes you’re describing such as planer, scrub and smoothing?
Sorry. I'm not sure what you mean by the numbers. Most planes have a name and a catalog number. Catalog number 1 through 8 are bench planes and then after that they are in order of when Stanley released them.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo , I meant, a 5-1/2, or a 4 or a 62. All these plane numbers. How do they tie to your descriptions?
The sizes don't have direct connection to the names. Name is what you use the plan for. Usually a smoother is somewhere between a three and a four and a half. The 5 and 1/4 up to the six is usually referred to as the jack. The six or the five and a half is usually referred to as a four plane but only when it has a heavily cambered iron. The 62 is a low angle Jack though some people use it as a smoothing plane. The scrub plane on the other hand can be just about any plane a lot of people will turn a four or five into a scrub plane. Though Stanley made the number 40 which is a dedicated scrub plane.
Thank you. What number was that giant long, planer you used in the video?
There is no nom er for wooden planes. That is actually a Cooper's plane.
Comment, down above
Tried and true comment down below
comment and snide remark
Sir! please use reliable sources for your publication. Who is this Tex Kluger? 🧐🧐🧐 I nearly dropped my monocle. (Stuffy British accent)
Post script: being facetious if it wasn't clear.
You must be a cork sniffer!!!
Comment
Comment down below 😂
Joke with bad pun : Depends : libcaffeine but it is not installed
E: Unmet dependencies. Try apt install caffeine tomorrow.
Wouldn't it be easier if you just used a power planer? Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!🤓😲😝. O.k. I can see myself out.
🇮🇪
Why would ever listen to Rex?
Comment down below
Comment down below.
Comment
Comment down below