Watching this, I now understand why some of my boards start out of flat, become flat, then end up being out of true. Thank you, James. Detailed and concise as always.
I'm really glad you made this, James. I've only used my scrub plane a couple of times and I thought I was doing something wrong the whole time. It's like planing a gravel road. And it's hard to push. Watching and, more importantly, hearing what it sounds like when you scrub the wood, reassures me that I did ok. I'll try it again now. Thanks!
Yeah the scrub plane sure sounds like it's only being sharpened every few months😂. But that's the reason I love those chanel it's not all razor sharp and silky smooth but the real deal. I had a similar experience with my chisels, I thought I made a bad purchase until I heard James say that no edge lasts long when you're chopping out a mortise in oak.
Wow, I've been looking for someone to provide this exact presentation - inc which planes to use, when etc., and you delivered such great information. comprehensive, clear and concise. Thank you James
Thanks for another great video. I know many people say "you don't need a foreplane" but I absolutely love mine - I had to clean up a load of very rough lumber and found it a breeze to clean up with my number 6,
No snide remarks from me. I had wondered about the popularity of the smoothing plane. One problem with the jointer planes, 6, 7, and 8 sizes is that to take a deep cut, that requires a lot of brute strength, and even if I am on the Brute Squad, I don't like working that hard.... I tend to favor a very light cut with the jointer planes and don't have to use a smoother. I may have to experiment with your method..... I do want 'perfectly' flat surfaces. I got spoiled with a drum sander, and I had to slide the pieces/panels sideways first to pick one off the top. They were perfectly flat.
After watching this tutorial I finally understand how to flatten a board! Your explanation was great and clarified and lot of misunderstandings I had on this. Thanks for sharing this tutorial.
As a beginner I would like to know a couple things: 1, can I turn any plane in to a scrub plane? 2, can I turn a regular iron in to a scrub plane iron? Thanks, James. Your videos really help.
You should try doing that with harsh low angle light and a camera angle so that you're pushing towards us so that people can really appreciate how deep the scallops are, and how they disappear with the jointer's passes.
When you were talking about the length of the plane gliding over low spots that it all made sense for the first time. I received a lot of planes from my wife's grandfather's estate, and am slowly fixing them up. I need to finish that and start using them, so thanks too for all the refurbishment of old tools. You would be perfect if you'd just get a better source for your dad jokes... 🙂
Very good presentation of the flattening process using scrub plane, jointer and smoother. 👍🏻👏🏻 And not to worry - you do not need to include anything from Rex to make the videos interesting 😂…but the tried and true fact was quite good! Thank you James…and Rex 🤭👌🏼
Good video. I've tried making boards from downed trees that I find in the forest. They always come out very rough looking, because I'm doing it in camp with very few tools to work with. You gave me some ideas that might help them come out a little nicer. Maybe I won't have to keep listening to Twisted Sister.
I struggled trueing edges with twist. Applying a similar board flattening method to thin edges was a headache because the geometry of a jointer plane traversing a twisted edge combined with a cambered iron made spot planing difficult. I got on much better with a straight iron applying pressure where it needs to be. Chasing 90° on a twisted edge while maintaining a straight edge is something I've not seen explained much on RUclips. I'd like to see your order of operations. Thanks!
I was always under the impression that "Tried and True" came from trying a maneuver and finding it worked, although that is pretty much what you're saying with tyring (try-square) and true (straight). My less woodworking centric understanding can apply to anything from greasing a bearing to taking medicine for a headache.
I recently got a scrub plane after years of resistance to it. There is nothing like it. It’s kind of like the draw knife of planes. It removes a remarkable amount of material fast.
Thanks James. Only problem is you just inspired me. I've got a piece of apple i chainsawed rough coup,e of years ago. Think I'll start flattening one side. Then I'm going to cheat and use my planer for side2
Thank you for this great scrub in practise explanation. What I wonder is, how do you ensure the jointer is set to take about 0.03" while a smother is set to 0.001"?
Hi James, I found this useful as an intro to the different types of planes. It was useful to see them used in sequence. My question is, why is the no. 4 recommended as the first plane if the smoothing is the last thing you would do? Is it that beginners will typically work from milled wood? Or can you kind of set it up as a poor man's jack and scrub if you get a couple extra blades? I'm just beginning and haven't bought my first plane, but I'm looking at a Stanley no 4 from the 50s
the No.4 is not the first plane that is the last plane. the fourplane is the first plane. I know the name gets a bit confusing. some people call it a scrub plane too.
Here's my snide comment: At the start of the video, you set up the situation where the board was twisted AND too thick. What if the board is twisted but already the right thickness? You didn't explain how to fix that! I think you're not able to address the hard questions! Seriously, I enjoyed this video and learned some good information.
Great video - thanks for posting. Flattening with planes doesn’t look so scary now. I haven’t got a jointer yet. What size plane is a jointer? Ken Myerscough, Southport UK
When it comes to the names of planes it has more to do with how you use it and then the actual plane. But most people consider a six and larger to be a jointer
Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but instead of the chamfer to prevent blowout can't I just turn the board around so I'm always working towards the center?
I've got a few videos showing that. But most of them are older I might need to redo the one sometime. Here is one. ruclips.net/video/wfVp9D8mg_c/видео.htmlsi=r1xjRFzgRgUUXKkq
Newb here trying to get some tools on a budget before starting my first project. Do you recommend a scrub plane for someone in my situation, and if so, which?
What jointer for a beginner? Lie Nielsen is $500, Veritas is $400, chinese premium (like wood river) is $369, indian premium (taytools) is $150, vintage is $150-$200 (but I don't know how much work it is to tune such a thing). ECE wood ones are $250. Vintage transitionals are really cheap, like well under $100. I'm leaning torwards wood so it's not as heavy? Though I'm not seeing any japanese planes that are nearly as long...
I would suggest a 6 Stanley antique. You will learn a lot from your planer during the restoration, respect her and look after it. When buying, pay attention to the iron itself, there must be no rust on it. They work really well, new 6 and 7s can't be compared in terms of weight and handling in my opinion.
That is all a personal preference. You can buy an antique for around 50 to $60 at a tool meet, and that's usually the direction I tell people to go. But some people like something to be fully set up and ready to go. A lot of other people really like the feel of a wooden plane. So in the end it just kind of comes down to personal preference.
A few “influencers” have made negative comments about #6 planes. So I found one for under $10. A bit of work (even new planes need work), it’s taking beautiful shavings. It a great substitute for a 7 and a 5. I also have a 3 and a junior jack (5 1/4) because they were inexpensive. These work well in lieu of a 4 or whatever. I also don’t have a scrub, but I think I could get the board flat maybe 30 secs slower by just do some swipes high corner to high corner. I am always somewhat surprised at how quickly a board can be flattened with hand planes. All plane irons need be sharpened often various RUclips show how to do that quickly and inexpensively.
Hi there, At this point I have a question that always worries me. Is it normal that, when we say that I have planed the whole of the board in this size, that the planes become dull? The cutting edge of the iron bends upwards. The plane no longer has traction and in front of the chip breaker the chips look like a scraper. With woods like teak or rosewood, this happens after what feels like half an hour. I find this worst on the Nr. 5 low angle. However, I only grind to 3000 grit, without the ruler trick or micro bevel. I think the sharpening works quite well and the edge is really good. Is this normal or should I sharpen the edge more? Sorry my English is not the best, I hope you understand what I mean. Greetings from deepest Bavaria. Florian
It all depends on the wood you are using and how good the steel is on your iron but for hardwoods like rosewood that's not uncommon at all to have to sharpen it every board.
Some woods - like teak, especially - have a high silica content that can be absolute murder on hand tool edges. Sharpening more often is just part of working with those materials.
Any recommendations for holding twisted wood still and level without a vise? I’ve tried using shims with some success, but they often fall on the floor, allowing the wood to rock
Sorry. I'm not sure what you mean by the numbers. Most planes have a name and a catalog number. Catalog number 1 through 8 are bench planes and then after that they are in order of when Stanley released them.
The sizes don't have direct connection to the names. Name is what you use the plan for. Usually a smoother is somewhere between a three and a four and a half. The 5 and 1/4 up to the six is usually referred to as the jack. The six or the five and a half is usually referred to as a four plane but only when it has a heavily cambered iron. The 62 is a low angle Jack though some people use it as a smoothing plane. The scrub plane on the other hand can be just about any plane a lot of people will turn a four or five into a scrub plane. Though Stanley made the number 40 which is a dedicated scrub plane.
Usually the amount of movement is well within the flexibility of the wood but if you're working in a high humid change environment you may want to hold off on flattening until you're ready to do your joinery.
Yeah, I have tried lately to do as much of the project as possible right after final dimensioning. As some one with some physical limitations it can be deflating to put time and effort into flattening a board, be exhausted at the end, rest and find it to be cupped the next morning 😡
What for? I can't see a use for it if I'm honest. When you're jointing an edge, and have done this more than a few dozen times, you can pretty much feel when it's square (your fingers on your forward hand will usually be dropped below the sole of the plane, in contact with the board below and you very quickly learn to guage the angle). Given that a jointed edge will generally not be that thick (the thickness of the board, I mean), it's rare that you need to scrape unless in the case of a severe knot, and even rarer that the scraping will be enough to bring the board noticeably out of square in that small particular area. I don't think you'd ever be in the position to use a right angled scraper to bring a board into perfect square. If you were struggling for square, you'd be better off just putting a fence on your jointer plane.
For obvious reasons, I am a little concerned about this. How was it determined that the board no longer wanted to be twisted? There some that embrace it as a lifestyle...
Sir! please use reliable sources for your publication. Who is this Tex Kluger? 🧐🧐🧐 I nearly dropped my monocle. (Stuffy British accent) Post script: being facetious if it wasn't clear.
Watching this, I now understand why some of my boards start out of flat, become flat, then end up being out of true.
Thank you, James. Detailed and concise as always.
The meaning behind "tried and true" was especially cool to learn.
I'm really glad you made this, James. I've only used my scrub plane a couple of times and I thought I was doing something wrong the whole time. It's like planing a gravel road. And it's hard to push. Watching and, more importantly, hearing what it sounds like when you scrub the wood, reassures me that I did ok. I'll try it again now. Thanks!
Yeah the scrub plane sure sounds like it's only being sharpened every few months😂.
But that's the reason I love those chanel it's not all razor sharp and silky smooth but the real deal.
I had a similar experience with my chisels, I thought I made a bad purchase until I heard James say that no edge lasts long when you're chopping out a mortise in oak.
Wow, I've been looking for someone to provide this exact presentation - inc which planes to use, when etc., and you delivered such great information. comprehensive, clear and concise. Thank you James
Thanks for another great video. I know many people say "you don't need a foreplane" but I absolutely love mine - I had to clean up a load of very rough lumber and found it a breeze to clean up with my number 6,
No snide remarks from me. I had wondered about the popularity of the smoothing plane. One problem with the jointer planes, 6, 7, and 8 sizes is that to take a deep cut, that requires a lot of brute strength, and even if I am on the Brute Squad, I don't like working that hard.... I tend to favor a very light cut with the jointer planes and don't have to use a smoother. I may have to experiment with your method..... I do want 'perfectly' flat surfaces. I got spoiled with a drum sander, and I had to slide the pieces/panels sideways first to pick one off the top. They were perfectly flat.
After watching this tutorial I finally understand how to flatten a board! Your explanation was great and clarified and lot of misunderstandings I had on this. Thanks for sharing this tutorial.
That was a very helpful demonstration of when & how to use each plane. Thank you.
Thank you I feel much more confident now that I'm not removing to much or to little material
As a beginner I would like to know a couple things: 1, can I turn any plane in to a scrub plane?
2, can I turn a regular iron in to a scrub plane iron?
Thanks, James. Your videos really help.
Yes and yes here is an old video on it. ruclips.net/video/3ZVhadFoq8E/видео.htmlsi=6xxkBGLcBQkwsBeJ
So, are we going to get a video on the plane swap magic trick you pulled off at 2:29? That seems like a really useful skill.
Lol I forgot I put that in there 😂
You should try doing that with harsh low angle light and a camera angle so that you're pushing towards us so that people can really appreciate how deep the scallops are, and how they disappear with the jointer's passes.
I like how james hits the really big high spots of flatening a boad! Cheers mate
Well done! I heard (and read) this process explained many times but none quite so succinctly.
This is my comment down below. There are others like it, but this one is mine.
Love my scrub plane, an old wooden one from Germany, very light and nice to use.
Amazing how that scrub plane magically changed. I blinked and missed it, then watched that section a couple of times. Apparently an advanced skill
Ok you got me on that one. What happened. I want to see it.
Right at 2:29 the plane in your hand magically changes. Visually interesting, likely an editing cut..@@WoodByWrightHowTo
Lol I did not see that in the edit. I switched but didn't mention it. LOL apparently didn't realize it from One clip to the next when editing LOL
I thought I was just crazy
When you were talking about the length of the plane gliding over low spots that it all made sense for the first time. I received a lot of planes from my wife's grandfather's estate, and am slowly fixing them up. I need to finish that and start using them, so thanks too for all the refurbishment of old tools. You would be perfect if you'd just get a better source for your dad jokes... 🙂
Very good presentation of the flattening process using scrub plane, jointer and smoother. 👍🏻👏🏻
And not to worry - you do not need to include anything from Rex to make the videos interesting 😂…but the tried and true fact was quite good! Thank you James…and Rex 🤭👌🏼
Good video. I've tried making boards from downed trees that I find in the forest. They always come out very rough looking, because I'm doing it in camp with very few tools to work with.
You gave me some ideas that might help them come out a little nicer.
Maybe I won't have to keep listening to Twisted Sister.
This is a great tutorial on how to get from even as rough as a fresh froe cut bit of firewood down to a plank ready to finish.
Terrific summary. Clear, complete, but not too much detail. Thanks very much, James.
Great summary - I'll definitely be using this order of operations when I explain how to flatten a board.
I struggled trueing edges with twist. Applying a similar board flattening method to thin edges was a headache because the geometry of a jointer plane traversing a twisted edge combined with a cambered iron made spot planing difficult. I got on much better with a straight iron applying pressure where it needs to be. Chasing 90° on a twisted edge while maintaining a straight edge is something I've not seen explained much on RUclips. I'd like to see your order of operations. Thanks!
Nicely done James! No need for a snide comment as RUclips will just scrub it out 🙄🙄
I made one of my number 4’s a scrub plane and works really well.
I was always under the impression that "Tried and True" came from trying a maneuver and finding it worked, although that is pretty much what you're saying with tyring (try-square) and true (straight). My less woodworking centric understanding can apply to anything from greasing a bearing to taking medicine for a headache.
Great explanation for a beginner.
Great timing. I was scrubbing and jointing thin stock last night for a dresser
I have four different scrub planes and a #5 & #6 with nice shallow chamfers on them. They are my most used planes.
Tried and true video, excellent explanation as is tradition from this smooth channel
Thank you, Rex Krueger for passing on that info.
This was VERY HELPFUL!
Well presented James
Really excellent tutorial, James! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I recently got a scrub plane after years of resistance to it. There is nothing like it. It’s kind of like the draw knife of planes. It removes a remarkable amount of material fast.
Thanks James. Only problem is you just inspired me. I've got a piece of apple i chainsawed rough coup,e of years ago. Think I'll start flattening one side. Then I'm going to cheat and use my planer for side2
Another great video! Thank you.
thanks James, hoping the move is going well.
Very helpful instructional video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Nice, I'm making windig sticks right now so they should help a lot
So simple this way, Thanks!
Thank you for this great scrub in practise explanation. What I wonder is, how do you ensure the jointer is set to take about 0.03" while a smother is set to 0.001"?
You can see, feel and even hear the difference in shavings
Really enjoy your channel. Thank you!
Great video, James!
Tried and true. Nice!
Hi James, I found this useful as an intro to the different types of planes. It was useful to see them used in sequence. My question is, why is the no. 4 recommended as the first plane if the smoothing is the last thing you would do? Is it that beginners will typically work from milled wood? Or can you kind of set it up as a poor man's jack and scrub if you get a couple extra blades? I'm just beginning and haven't bought my first plane, but I'm looking at a Stanley no 4 from the 50s
the No.4 is not the first plane that is the last plane. the fourplane is the first plane. I know the name gets a bit confusing. some people call it a scrub plane too.
Comment down below! But seriously, you have some of the most informative hand tool videos. Thank you very much!
Very informative! Thanks very much
Great learning video!!
Thanks James
Great lesson
Thank you much Sir.🎉
With that scrub plane you can really take the twist DOWN BELOW 😂❤
Here's my snide comment:
At the start of the video, you set up the situation where the board was twisted AND too thick. What if the board is twisted but already the right thickness? You didn't explain how to fix that! I think you're not able to address the hard questions!
Seriously, I enjoyed this video and learned some good information.
Excellent! Thank you.
I made a pair of whining sticks, and they wouldn’t stop complaining about one always being closer to me.
Thank you!
Great video - thanks for posting. Flattening with planes doesn’t look so scary now.
I haven’t got a jointer yet. What size plane is a jointer?
Ken Myerscough, Southport UK
When it comes to the names of planes it has more to do with how you use it and then the actual plane. But most people consider a six and larger to be a jointer
Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but instead of the chamfer to prevent blowout can't I just turn the board around so I'm always working towards the center?
Yes. That is very doable!
Thx James!
Do you have a video on making winding sticks?
I've got a few videos showing that. But most of them are older I might need to redo the one sometime. Here is one. ruclips.net/video/wfVp9D8mg_c/видео.htmlsi=r1xjRFzgRgUUXKkq
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thank you
Good vid, I am a rookie, and just got some planes. What kind of finish can you use on a surface that smooth.
You can use any finish you want. They'll have different pros and cons.
There is a finish called TRIED AND TRUE. It is primarily a polymerized linseed oil. Seems appropriate.
Great video! Tank you
Great video! What kind of iron is in your No. 4 smoother?
That is a ZenWu iron.
Thanks for sharing.
Newb here trying to get some tools on a budget before starting my first project. Do you recommend a scrub plane for someone in my situation, and if so, which?
Generally no. Unless you plan on doing a lot with rough sawn wood. In that case get an old junkie plane and modify it into a scrub plane.
thanks
I find it very difficult to plane the edge of the board square to the face. Any secrets or is it just practice, practice, practice?
It is a bit of skill development, but it is focusing on just hitting the high spots
Thanks for sharing that!
This was so helpful, thank you!
I'm tired and true. Does that count?
What jointer for a beginner? Lie Nielsen is $500, Veritas is $400, chinese premium (like wood river) is $369, indian premium (taytools) is $150, vintage is $150-$200 (but I don't know how much work it is to tune such a thing). ECE wood ones are $250. Vintage transitionals are really cheap, like well under $100. I'm leaning torwards wood so it's not as heavy? Though I'm not seeing any japanese planes that are nearly as long...
I got the taytools #6, works fine. Good plane.
I would suggest a 6 Stanley antique. You will learn a lot from your planer during the restoration, respect her and look after it. When buying, pay attention to the iron itself, there must be no rust on it.
They work really well, new 6 and 7s can't be compared in terms of weight and handling in my opinion.
That is all a personal preference. You can buy an antique for around 50 to $60 at a tool meet, and that's usually the direction I tell people to go. But some people like something to be fully set up and ready to go. A lot of other people really like the feel of a wooden plane. So in the end it just kind of comes down to personal preference.
A few “influencers” have made negative comments about #6 planes. So I found one for under $10. A bit of work (even new planes need work), it’s taking beautiful shavings. It a great substitute for a 7 and a 5. I also have a 3 and a junior jack (5 1/4) because they were inexpensive. These work well in lieu of a 4 or whatever. I also don’t have a scrub, but I think I could get the board flat maybe 30 secs slower by just do some swipes high corner to high corner. I am always somewhat surprised at how quickly a board can be flattened with hand planes. All plane irons need be sharpened often various RUclips show how to do that quickly and inexpensively.
Hope the move is going well or went well
We're in the house now. But I'm not going to start getting the shop set up for another couple weeks
@@WoodByWrightHowTo congratulations
Hi there,
At this point I have a question that always worries me. Is it normal that, when we say that I have planed the whole of the board in this size, that the planes become dull? The cutting edge of the iron bends upwards. The plane no longer has traction and in front of the chip breaker the chips look like a scraper. With woods like teak or rosewood, this happens after what feels like half an hour.
I find this worst on the Nr. 5 low angle.
However, I only grind to 3000 grit, without the ruler trick or micro bevel. I think the sharpening works quite well and the edge is really good.
Is this normal or should I sharpen the edge more?
Sorry my English is not the best, I hope you understand what I mean.
Greetings from deepest Bavaria.
Florian
It all depends on the wood you are using and how good the steel is on your iron but for hardwoods like rosewood that's not uncommon at all to have to sharpen it every board.
Some woods - like teak, especially - have a high silica content that can be absolute murder on hand tool edges. Sharpening more often is just part of working with those materials.
Any recommendations for holding twisted wood still and level without a vise? I’ve tried using shims with some success, but they often fall on the floor, allowing the wood to rock
You can run screws into the bench top or sacrificial board and let the heads stick up by the amount of twist.
At it again
What plane are you using for your scrub plane?
In this case I was using an actual scrub plane from stanley. The number 40. But I turned the number five into a scrub/fore plane
Ok, novice at planing. Can you define the numbers of these planes you’re describing such as planer, scrub and smoothing?
Sorry. I'm not sure what you mean by the numbers. Most planes have a name and a catalog number. Catalog number 1 through 8 are bench planes and then after that they are in order of when Stanley released them.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo , I meant, a 5-1/2, or a 4 or a 62. All these plane numbers. How do they tie to your descriptions?
The sizes don't have direct connection to the names. Name is what you use the plan for. Usually a smoother is somewhere between a three and a four and a half. The 5 and 1/4 up to the six is usually referred to as the jack. The six or the five and a half is usually referred to as a four plane but only when it has a heavily cambered iron. The 62 is a low angle Jack though some people use it as a smoothing plane. The scrub plane on the other hand can be just about any plane a lot of people will turn a four or five into a scrub plane. Though Stanley made the number 40 which is a dedicated scrub plane.
Thank you. What number was that giant long, planer you used in the video?
There is no nom er for wooden planes. That is actually a Cooper's plane.
How to keep it from not moving again overnight?! Twisted boards always seem to wanna move again because of the uneven amounts of material removed
Usually the amount of movement is well within the flexibility of the wood but if you're working in a high humid change environment you may want to hold off on flattening until you're ready to do your joinery.
Yeah, I have tried lately to do as much of the project as possible right after final dimensioning. As some one with some physical limitations it can be deflating to put time and effort into flattening a board, be exhausted at the end, rest and find it to be cupped the next morning 😡
Another great vid, James. Hope the move went well
Ok so hear me out something like a card scraper but also on a 90 degree angle like a square?
What for? I can't see a use for it if I'm honest. When you're jointing an edge, and have done this more than a few dozen times, you can pretty much feel when it's square (your fingers on your forward hand will usually be dropped below the sole of the plane, in contact with the board below and you very quickly learn to guage the angle). Given that a jointed edge will generally not be that thick (the thickness of the board, I mean), it's rare that you need to scrape unless in the case of a severe knot, and even rarer that the scraping will be enough to bring the board noticeably out of square in that small particular area. I don't think you'd ever be in the position to use a right angled scraper to bring a board into perfect square. If you were struggling for square, you'd be better off just putting a fence on your jointer plane.
The initial chamfering sounded painful.
Life goals: make a board “flat as a board.”
Comment up above!
Someone's always got to hold their phone upside down LOL
@@WoodByWrightHowTo nah. I'm just a bit subversive.
Snide remark!!!
Comments down below
How to remove the smile from a wooden bord
Comment down below
Comment down below.
Comment down below ⬇️
CDB
Snide remark down below.
For obvious reasons, I am a little concerned about this. How was it determined that the board no longer wanted to be twisted? There some that embrace it as a lifestyle...
Comment, down above
Snide remark
Sir! please use reliable sources for your publication. Who is this Tex Kluger? 🧐🧐🧐 I nearly dropped my monocle. (Stuffy British accent)
Post script: being facetious if it wasn't clear.
You must be a cork sniffer!!!
FEWTELL, the secret to stock preparation.
As you say, you justcovered the firsttwo steps:Face, Edge
Wouldn't it be easier if you just used a power planer? Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!🤓😲😝. O.k. I can see myself out.
Tried and true comment down below