STOP wood WARPING before it happens
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2024
- Today I’m sharing all my tips on how to keep lumber from warping. From selecting the right boards to proper storage. I’ll explain how to stack and sticker lumber and how to keep boards flat even after milling. Stop wood warping before it happens!
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►Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:22 Why does lumber warp?
1:14 How to prevent wood from warping
1:45 Does climate control matter?
2:42 Hardwoods
4:57 Construction lumber
7:22 After milling
9:07 Plywood
10:12 Recap
►Other videos about wood movement worth watching:
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• STOP Wood Warping BEFO...
• Why wood warps/cups, a...
• How to tell if a 2X4 (... 
Хобби
I bought plywood for decades before I really got in "fine woodworking" after I retired. I don't use much plywood these days BUT I have discovered there are about 30 different grades of plywood. Most lumberyards only carry a couple. I have built a couple of boats and for them I purchased marine grade hardwood plywood (then fiberglassed over it). WHAT A DIFFERENCE. Once one uses really great plywood, they will never buy the stuff from a big box store ever again. Of course it is very expensive. But the things I make now are intended to last for generations. I might buy big box stuff to build a dog house, but that is all. You are correct about letting lumber acclimatize in the shop for some time. I try to buy months ahead of time. I have some stuff that is over 10 years old: Oak, cherry. bubinga, wenge, etc. Stuff I make jewelry boxes out of. Great video.
The stack and sticker method you showed has saved me from having warped material.
I never thought of clamping lumber together before. I like that idea.
Thanks for sharing this information
You bet!
Good tips, Marie. It's great to see content from you again.
Bill
I already use many of these methods to help minimize eventual wood movement, but many thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences. Your past vids , as well as this one provide very good and useful information. Thank you!
Thanks!
Great video! As an FYI - you could also use ratchet straps instead of weights to keep the stickered lumber from moving. :)
Love that idea!!
Thanks for all the tips, Marie! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks! Same to you
All good tips Marie. For me, it depends on the project. Most of the time, it's buy it, cut it and "screw it"
Thanks! !! !!!
Good tips. Thanks for sharing what you do vs. the theory of others.
I do enjoy your videos.
Great video, this is something that has driven me crazy for a long time, can't wait to try out your techniques!
Lots of great tips here, Marie. Thank you.
Excellent advice! Thanks for sharing.
One of my tips is if I need 8 foot construction lumber I buy 16 foot lengths. My thought is that longer boards are usually cut from bigger trees that tend to make better more stable lumber.
Another great video! Well explained in basic terms the average DIYer can understand. We don’t need a bunch of technical jargon and formulas. Just simple and practical how-to advice… and that’s found in abundance on this channel! ❤🎉
Great tips. Thank you.
Great job of explaining, and I like your practical approach to problem solving.
Thank you!
Great tips Marie....thanks for sharing! I rarely buy construction lumber but when I do I make sure it is kiln dried. The big box stores here do offer some that is kiln dried. I clamp the boards together with a long "level" or straight edge on one side. I've had good luck but I live where the humidity is very low.
Outstanding work 👍👍
Thank You!!! Great Info!!! Much Appreciated!!!! 👍😎👊
Appreciate the tips!!
Love your videos.
Thanks for the ideas. JimE
Doh! Wish I'd seen this video a week ago, before my cedar boards went from flat to wacky.
Live and learn. I'm considering re-wetting them and using some of these suggestions to bring them back to flat as they re-dry. Luckily, cedar is very pliable.
Enjoy your videos good channel for DIYer's and woodworkers. Keep posting. P.S. Located just south of you in Vermont, USA
Thanks! And love taking weekend trips to New England 😍
Some real good tips. This encourages me to be more conscious of taking the time to stacking lumber to reducing warping
It's totally worth the effort IMO
Beautiful talk and very valuable information without any b××××××t around :) Love it ❤
Very professional video. I don’t need help with warping but I do need help with sciatica. Any tricks or tips.
I typically clamp my 2x4 together too. I never thought anyone else did it. I live in a very dry place so. As soon as they come from the store that are already moving. I know everyone say you should. It used to be this or that well not everyone has a decent lumber yard or even a lumber yard at all in thier city and I’m not making shop furniture out of hardwood from woodworkers source or woodcraft. Those are what I have or the big box. So I use heat I use and I have learned a lot of thing working with crap wood.
Love the tennis ball on the bandsaw fence rail. Was this a pre-thought or an ouch moment :) great tips and getting close to the 300,000 subscriber mark.
Thanks! Definitely had a few ouch moments that lead to me adding the tennis ball. It's saved me from a bunch of bruises let me tell you!
I appreciate your videos so much. I'm a new woodworker living in Saguenay, and there are so many unique challenges to overcome based just on location. I often reference your videos when I find something I want to try, because I know your experience will be the best to guide me. Thanks for that!
If you can recommend a good hardwood supplier, I would be very appreciative - we only really have one in Chicout (well, two, but not really). I visit Montreal on a regular basis, so I'd be able to pick up in bulk - but online delivery is good too!
I get asked this all the time so I compiled a list of lumber yards here (scroll down to Q. Where do you buy lumber in Montreal?) www.diymontreal.com/about/faqs/
@@DIYMontreal Thanks, I'll check out some places when I come down this summer.
Well summer's coming to montreal soon! 20c today😮 last snow storm 🤞
Yes!
Very helpful! Thanks.
But if the plywood already had a bend or concavity, how can we return it back to straight surface?
Useful information. Do you have any issues with mildew on wood stored in the middle of a stack in your lumber rack? Thanks for sharing.
No never had this issue. It's very dry in my shop all winter and in the summer I run a dehumidifier 24/7 so this may help.
I make small projects . After I get my hardwood to shop I lay out the project and cut to rough dimensions. I weigh each piece and record. Stack with each side and face exposed . Every week or two weigh again. When weight does not change for two weeks I make the project., Dimensional change going forward is minimal.
Its impossible to get finished wood here in thailand. The freshly sawn hard wood 1x and 2x I get has a moisture content around 35%
@8:37 What product are you applying, and does the green pad have a brand name?
Thanks from the south shore !
It's OSMO Top Oil. And that's their fleece pad applicator. Watch this video for more details (and product links in description) ruclips.net/video/bvP0ntq-lzE/видео.html
@@DIYMontreal I will, Thank you !
I noticed while you were filming the typical construction lumber, we were looking at spruce (épinette), but you called it pine (?)
To me pine is "semi premium", firstly in price; 4x that of spruce, and also appearance and feel; much smoother and more dense), S4S, and as such, pine is suitable for furniture making
The typical spruce construction lumber comes in all possible defects. Cup, bow, twist, knotty, splits, cracks, gouges, strap marks, damaged edges. In a 300 pieces bundle, its hard to find 30 good ones. Seems to me spruce is meant to be used when not seen, like behind drywall, or as structure for plywood.
Fair point! And you're absolutely right.
The lumber she has on her bench is is stamped KD S-P-F. The KD indicates that it is kiln dried to 16% (i believe that is the regulated moisture content). The SPF stand for spruce pine fir and is a mix of those three species. The fir in SPF is alpine fir AKA balsom. Douglas fir is stamped D-Fir.
Their is only one species of pine in the SPF group and it's the one call grey pine ( pinus banksiana) because he has similar property than spruce and fir. The red and White pine are not used as Lumber.
@@jeremiegrandchamp9929 In western Canada the pine usually refers to lodgepole pine. I am going by Canadian grading rules.
Seems like the clamping and daily rotating of the tubafors is more work than stickering.
What's a "tubafor"?
@@bryceanderson4864 2 x 4 🤣
@@bryceanderson4864 playing music. 🤣
@@bryceanderson4864 Some of the woodworkers on here that are from the southern US sound like they're saying tubafor when they say 2 by 4.
Hi Marie, you look good as always and as always a good and understandable blog, With respect to you and your channel from Russia🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹❤❤❤
DON'T BUY 2x4s. Buy 2x8s instead, and rip them in two
But then they're only four feet long... 😂
The same is true for 1xWhatever. Get a 2x6 and rip it in to 1x. I can get one 2x6 for the price of one 1x2.
@@theGhostOfRigbyReardon Price is not the reason. The reason is quality. 2x4s are often poor quality, and are much wetter too because they sell so fast
@@jay-jose9952 Rip means lengthwise. So they will still be the same length. I probably missed the joke though, come to think about it!!
@@jay-jose9952 ohhh that was priceless. The sad thing is…. If you said that to a total rookie, you’d kick your own rear….. but eventually you’d run into another….8-10 years and do it again. 😉🙌
Seems like your shop would be pretty much incapacitated while all the wood is acclimating. Good info though.
first. Cheers!
DONT BUY 2x8s. Buy 2x12s instead, and rip them in three