@@keysautorepair6038 just wandiring, does the need for the grounding to the frame when welding send unwanted resistance to all the electronics for the car and short out everything when welding?
People can criticize you all they want...the bottom line is that you spend waaaaay more time racing than in the shop. Maybe not lately, but ever since I've been watching. Time to knock the rust of those mad driving skills!
The waste gate priority is not very good on the passengers side should have stuck out front ways in the bend for best control ,But that pipe being so short hopefully won't boost creep on you to much.. BTW If he is having problems with Stainless Steel cracking try 321ss it is way more durable and handles heat much better. It is the best for headers and hot side piping.
Now that I reviewed things in order, you did the right thing unplugging the Holley system to weld, but I now wonder though even counting how old that regulator was, if that backfire weakened the probably already worn out and possibly already dried out and cracked fuel pressure regulator that was being taxed near the point of catastrophic breaking, and the few fast throttle whacks you gave it, causing it to bounce, it finally gave way. Just do not ever call yourself unlucky ever again...as long as you walk away to race another day bro., because you are lucky. That new turbo setup is looking good, and the engine on motor sounds great. Crisp and clean. New combo bugs are expected, and I am sure at this moment Randy would trade places with you, and we all hope he and Brian both come back stronger than ever right with your improves.
Back purging or using solar flux will help a lot with cracking whenever welding stainless. If you use the flux just clean out the pipes after you’re done welding
Not crazy about placement of that passenger side wastegate. It could be difficult to control the exhaust flow with it running off the exhaust pipe at a 90 like that. Shouldn’t wastegates be as much in line with the exhaust collector tube as possible?
Oh man, I missed this video, saw the dangerous 1, and the turbo mount vid, before I saw this video, and just realized that it was not just luck, but timing of that dangerous pressure regulator failure, was flat out a miracle as far as timing brother John. Any other startup, before or after could flat have been catastrophic in result, and it still could have been. But, it wasn't. And for that we should all be very thankful.
Yeah funny thing about stainless and aluminum, can't efficiently cut with a torch, you need a plasma cutter. Welds look good though. Remember 309 filler when welding steel to stainless.
Like you guys were saying... mild steel is good for hotside it grows and shinks better than 304 and less likely to crack... but you have to use thicker wall. downside it's more likely to rust and it conducts heat about twice as fast as stainless
Glad you finally fixed and moved your turbo. Looks good. Love how you do things on a budget! You have a great group of friends with Randy and Bryan lending you a hand and old parts. I seen Brantley helping you out always. He will be a future drag racer for sure.
You know what would be real cool if you and Devin vanderhoof raced….no prep 8th mile. Two very different approaches to the game however both very successful.
I love the simplicity but I'd guess this thing is going to have creep issues, even with the badass gates. Neither gate has very good priority. Drivers side would be better served straight off the bend and the passenger side needs to be like 45° towards the turbo.
lmao dude when you took that heat tape off i was like wow it looks like it was built out of old tailpipes from pick n pull, haha!! glad you at least used some new pipe. not a fan of fender exits, just go old school and just shoot the downpipe towards the ground in the engine bay
Urge you to check all your grounds bro, that was a huge static discharge, not a backfire, it did rotate the crank 1 tooth on the crank trigger, but it was not an internal pop, but a giant static discharge. You have an electrical issue that needs resolving. And yes I realize you probably plugged in the Holley system power on state, but there still should have been nothing down there where the spark came from unless you distro is back there on front of the cam, and the coil wire was unplugged. That spark was enough to electrocute a human. It was about a foot long.
Luckily, that backfire and fire out of the flange did not happen when the fuel regulator membrane split dumping all that alcohol into the intake, and happened much later. Emergency fire did not happen, and that was all just luck, but actually you should thank your lucky stars as great luck for a change TJ!
That is really strange, slowed it down, and it ricochet off the rubber boot of the rack and pinion before hitting the front frame rail. That bugger had some amperage behind it.
--Cheap turbo kit-- Required tools/ parts/ skills: •common tools •tig welder and split flow regulator for purge •tin foil •band saw/ miter saw •cheap eBay turbo •cheap eBay bov •8-15 feet of stainless pipe •splurge on an intercooler if you please •a few rolls of exhuast wrap •knowledge on tig welding thin wall stainless • can't think of anything else. Assuming you already have the welder, the saw and the general tools, this should cost you about $1000, give or take and depending on your welding proficiency and time available, it will take you about a week to finish, assuming 4 hours a day every day. Will it last? Can't say, will it be fun while it does? Can say (answer is yes)
I know you posted a short about GM SBC being a SBC regardless of what gen, but you can't beat a 1st gen cammed sbc compared to a LS idle. Ls swaps tend to sound like the truck they came out of. Hope you stay 1st gen SBC for a very long time.
Don't that make different back pressures on each side that will cause a bad signal for the Holley computer to correct??? Asking to learn not to be a expert RUclipsr. I know nothing about turbos or tuning with the EFI Holley or any other brand.
Motor plate to front frame rail discharge, facing it about 4" left of the crank trigger sensor. Right at 20:05 I swear some freaky Friday schidt happening to you in scary October.
Um That wastegate priority on the driver side it being on the side of a straight peice of pipe there is no merge the exhaust is gonna go right past it instead of flow into it 😂
It works fine! Zero boost creep. Turbine wheel stalls air and creates backpressure. Back pressure allows the open wastegate to flow exhaust. Not optimal, but works in high boost situations where backpressure is elevated.
DON’T FORGET, to unplug the Holley again when you start welding on the rest of the turbo kit!
Did that before and didn't even think about it didn't turn out well
@@keysautorepair6038 just wandiring, does the need for the grounding to the frame when welding send unwanted resistance to all the electronics for the car and short out everything when welding?
People can criticize you all they want...the bottom line is that you spend waaaaay more time racing than in the shop. Maybe not lately, but ever since I've been watching. Time to knock the rust of those mad driving skills!
John shows us how to go fast on a budget!
Having some awesome friends doesn’t hurt either.
The waste gate priority is not very good on the passengers side should have stuck out front ways in the bend for best control ,But that pipe being so short hopefully won't boost creep on you to much.. BTW If he is having problems with Stainless Steel cracking try 321ss it is way more durable and handles heat much better. It is the best for headers and hot side piping.
In case anyone was wondering - Stainless steel, 300 series, is actually heavier at .289lb/cu in, vs. Mild steel at .283/cu in.
What a great team of friends you have, more power to ya.
The new hot side turned out great. It seems to take way more time than we expect it to,
U can use soapy water to check for leaks on welds or something that might not stain the pipe
Personally speaking,,,,I think it looks awesome,,,,and probably flow a hell of a lot better,,,nice job man..🤓💯
Now that I reviewed things in order, you did the right thing unplugging the Holley system to weld, but I now wonder though even counting how old that regulator was, if that backfire weakened the probably already worn out and possibly already dried out and cracked fuel pressure regulator that was being taxed near the point of catastrophic breaking, and the few fast throttle whacks you gave it, causing it to bounce, it finally gave way.
Just do not ever call yourself unlucky ever again...as long as you walk away to race another day bro., because you are lucky.
That new turbo setup is looking good, and the engine on motor sounds great. Crisp and clean. New combo bugs are expected, and I am sure at this moment Randy would trade places with you, and we all hope he and Brian both come back stronger than ever right with your improves.
Back purging or using solar flux will help a lot with cracking whenever welding stainless. If you use the flux just clean out the pipes after you’re done welding
Not crazy about placement of that passenger side wastegate. It could be difficult to control the exhaust flow with it running off the exhaust pipe at a 90 like that. Shouldn’t wastegates be as much in line with the exhaust collector tube as possible?
Oh man, I missed this video, saw the dangerous 1, and the turbo mount vid, before I saw this video, and just realized that it was not just luck, but timing of that dangerous pressure regulator failure, was flat out a miracle as far as timing brother John. Any other startup, before or after could flat have been catastrophic in result, and it still could have been.
But, it wasn't. And for that we should all be very thankful.
Yeah funny thing about stainless and aluminum, can't efficiently cut with a torch, you need a plasma cutter. Welds look good though. Remember 309 filler when welding steel to stainless.
Like you guys were saying... mild steel is good for hotside it grows and shinks better than 304 and less likely to crack... but you have to use thicker wall.
downside it's more likely to rust and it conducts heat about twice as fast as stainless
321SS is the best for headers and hot side stuff handles heat way better doesn't crack like 304ss will.
Glad you finally fixed and moved your turbo. Looks good. Love how you do things on a budget! You have a great group of friends with Randy and Bryan lending you a hand and old parts. I seen Brantley helping you out always. He will be a future drag racer for sure.
Love it when a plan comes together nice work john.....🙂👍🙏
Turned out nice.
While it is torn down that far you can get a smaller cog for your cam and overdrive it a little bit.
You know what would be real cool if you and Devin vanderhoof raced….no prep 8th mile.
Two very different approaches to the game however both very successful.
I felt your frustration, cars can sure be hardheaded huh? Things learn to fly, wrenches, pipes...anything that's close at hand! LOL!
And get some new stuff. Hey John give yourself some credit man your welding is alot better than then so not bad 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Dang man. Y'all get fancy lately.
Motor sounds 🔥👌💯
Looks a lot better than the old one LOL.
The car sounds awesome TJ! 🤩🤩
Doing this is my tube chassis sbc chevy pinto just what I needed man thanks turbo John your the man
Thanks!
It’s crazy this dude over here making a turbo kit for $80 and has sat next to cleetus’s quarter of a million dollar car.
I love the simplicity but I'd guess this thing is going to have creep issues, even with the badass gates. Neither gate has very good priority.
Drivers side would be better served straight off the bend and the passenger side needs to be like 45° towards the turbo.
You get a thumbs up for getting rid of that ugly old hotside!🤣
lmao dude when you took that heat tape off i was like wow it looks like it was built out of old tailpipes from pick n pull, haha!! glad you at least used some new pipe. not a fan of fender exits, just go old school and just shoot the downpipe towards the ground in the engine bay
Looks dang good to me John 👍
Budget racing. Keep on gettin up
Hot side without the wrap looks like Darth Vader without his mask on. 💀
I hear a new saying for a tee shirt, thanks to Brian " Are you sure you want to do that" 😆
Function over form John !
Nothing wrong with goin cheap if it works!!!
Urge you to check all your grounds bro, that was a huge static discharge, not a backfire, it did rotate the crank 1 tooth on the crank trigger, but it was not an internal pop, but a giant static discharge. You have an electrical issue that needs resolving. And yes I realize you probably plugged in the Holley system power on state, but there still should have been nothing down there where the spark came from unless you distro is back there on front of the cam, and the coil wire was unplugged.
That spark was enough to electrocute a human. It was about a foot long.
Has to help with spool time a little i would think with less pipe
Mild steal don't crack with a big crack next to the waste gate...I'm just saying, lol. But I would go ur route too. Nothing wrong with budget racing.
Does it affect performance not having equal length pipes going to the turbo?
Yeah I'll have to agree with you dude that piping looks pretty rough
Luckily, that backfire and fire out of the flange did not happen when the fuel regulator membrane split dumping all that alcohol into the intake, and happened much later. Emergency fire did not happen, and that was all just luck, but actually you should thank your lucky stars as great luck for a change TJ!
19:07 done that so many times
That is really strange, slowed it down, and it ricochet off the rubber boot of the rack and pinion before hitting the front frame rail. That bugger had some amperage behind it.
--Cheap turbo kit--
Required tools/ parts/ skills:
•common tools
•tig welder and split flow regulator for purge
•tin foil
•band saw/ miter saw
•cheap eBay turbo
•cheap eBay bov
•8-15 feet of stainless pipe
•splurge on an intercooler if you please
•a few rolls of exhuast wrap
•knowledge on tig welding thin wall stainless
• can't think of anything else.
Assuming you already have the welder, the saw and the general tools, this should cost you about $1000, give or take and depending on your welding proficiency and time available, it will take you about a week to finish, assuming 4 hours a day every day.
Will it last? Can't say, will it be fun while it does? Can say (answer is yes)
That motor sounds healthy now
“Rust dipping” 🤣🤣🤣☠️
hahaha.. how are you TJ... i like this one...
Quite a chunk of time, but it looks so much nicer you might not have to wrap it.
Hell yea John
You should reweld put ut back together and put it on the wall. For a conversation piece 💯💯💯💯
Still don't have an infared temp gun? Might have more uses then you realize . 'bout ready to go again sir🤘☠️👍
Look like a turbo kit fabricator to me! 🤷♂️ looking nice so far!
I know you posted a short about GM SBC being a SBC regardless of what gen, but you can't beat a 1st gen cammed sbc compared to a LS idle. Ls swaps tend to sound like the truck they came out of. Hope you stay 1st gen SBC for a very long time.
Don't that make different back pressures on each side that will cause a bad signal for the Holley computer to correct??? Asking to learn not to be a expert RUclipsr. I know nothing about turbos or tuning with the EFI Holley or any other brand.
You're gonna figure it all out maybe even a vclamp or two
Ugly is fast
Take the WG's off and throw the rest away. Mild steel is better in my opinion.
Seriously John, it bounced of the front framerail, would have sure tickled your shin.
Motor plate to front frame rail discharge, facing it about 4" left of the crank trigger sensor. Right at 20:05 I swear some freaky Friday schidt happening to you in scary October.
Your engine is a lot louder for some reason 🤣
I was first 🏁
Um That wastegate priority on the driver side it being on the side of a straight peice of pipe there is no merge the exhaust is gonna go right past it instead of flow into it 😂
It works fine! Zero boost creep. Turbine wheel stalls air and creates backpressure. Back pressure allows the open wastegate to flow exhaust. Not optimal, but works in high boost situations where backpressure is elevated.
All Steel you can mig and tig
I would redo all that with new pipe the flow of that old pipe has to be dog shit