The length of the spring would be awesome. And maybe also (some pics with) measurements of the holes you have to drill to install the poti and the other 3d printed parts (i don't have a 3d printer). I'm sure i'll figure it out myself when i have the handbrake in my hands, but it would be a bit more easy if you could provide the data (as far as it is not to much work). Thanks =)
Your spring looks much better than what the guy providing the 3D model in your link took. Is it the 1.5x15x35mm lenght? Thanks for making these awesome video tutorials, m8!
I just wanted to say that, as an electronics/Arduino enthusiast, even though I don't particularly enjoy racing games, your projects are awesome. Amazingly simple, yet extremely practical and elegant. You, Sir, are what engineers should aspire to be.
I have that handbrake for last 4 years lies next to the computer waiting for an idea how to make it work on pc games. This is the best tutorial and easiest way to do it. I ordered my potentiometer and Pro Micro and i cant wait to finish this VIP. TNX for great video.
Those who have any issues with message "The Joystick library can only be used with a USB MCU (e.g. Arduino Leonardo, Arduino Micro, etc.)." You need to select correct board on TOOLS->BOARD->ARDUINO/GENUINO MICRO. And you should chose correct COM port on TOOLS->PORT->.
Thank you so much! This is like the coolest thing ever. So glad i didnt have to pay the 150 for the fanatec ebrake, ended up only costing about 60-80$ + i got a learning experience out of it!
Great tutorial, and I made one for myself using your video as my main guide. Can't thank you enough! But because I had a slightly longer potentiometer, and because I found that the value would wrap-around at the tiniest misalignment. So for example pulling the brake lever hard down to the bottom, sometimes resulted in actually applying 0-2% brake instead. So I made a small change to your code, added a "constrain" operation before the map operation, like this: pot = constrain(pot, *min pot value here*, *max pot value here*); Gave me more consistency and effectively dead zones at min and maximum, so the break is never slightly on or off when it shouldn't be. Thanks again for putting this video up here, you are a legend!
Hey there, I have the same problem since I'm using a larger potentiometer. Would you please mind to help me with the correction of the code? Many thanks!
Hey man, Mind explaining what tha constrain does and what programming language that is? If I had to guess Java, but not understanding what you said is killing me.
mind helping with where you put that line? I know basics of arduino programming but I've been trying different things and doesn't seem to be working. Thanks
I just bought these parts. Noticed that the potentiometer I got didn't look exactly like the one in the video. The pins had different locations. For those of you that can't calibrate yours after building it. Make sure that "analog read" is connected to pin 2. If you switch the other two, 1 and 3. That will just make the pot work backwards. It's no 2 that reads the movement. Good luck.
Hi , I need little bit of help. As I saw in the video his potenciometer has 2 pins on one end and 1 pin on other end. Mine has 4 and 2. Where should I connect VCC , ground and A0 ? Because on his it looks easy but with 6 pins I have no idea which should I connect where.. I waited 30 days for my parts , so I don't wanna ruin it. Thanks for your answer
Awesome man! I was willing to spend $150 in a hand brake and be killed by my wife, but seeing yours, I think I'll follow your path. Really awesome project.
how do you connect from Terminal Layout / Circuit Diagram on potentiometer 1 goes to where?? on the pro micro and 2 goes to Where on the Pro micro ?? and then 3 gives it selves thank you
For people struggling with needing a "deadzone" this is how I got around that issue. void setup() {pinMode(A0, INPUT); Joystick.begin();} const int pinToButtonMap = A0; void loop() {int pot = analogRead(A0); pot = constrain(pot,117,1017); int mapped = map(pot,117,1017,0,255); // pot = constrain(pot,500,1023); {Joystick.setThrottle(mapped);}} The "pot= constrain(pot,117,1017) came from the minimum and maximum limits of my build. you'll need to find these by uploading a sketch that creates an output of these values in serial monitor. Once you find your minimum and maximum just change replace 117 and 1017. good luck!
amstudio Hi, awesome video. I've just built mine but I can't calibrate it. It comes up as undefined in the control panel. It verifies and uploads with no error but can't get it to work as a game controller. Please help Thanks :)
To anyone who might be getting the "not declared in this scope" error, add "Joystick_ Joystick;" (without the quotes) just below the "#include " line. Apparently, the new version of the Joystick Library needs that line to create the virtual joystick. I figured this out by looking at the examples provided in the library itself, specifically the JoystickTest sketch. Hope this helps. This is an awesome project!
If I'm correct you need to drill four holes to put the bolts through the handbrakes' mount. It wasn't mentioned in the video even though it could clearly be seen. Would you mind sharing how you determined the position of these holes?
Raceboy123 I'm Gona do the same thing as u m8 I'm Gona do this for my g920 that me Gona get and the shifter for it as well as a stand a few other things from amstudio I might do the rev lights idk but yer
Hi, awesome video. I've just built mine but I can't calibrate it. It comes up as undefined in the control panel. It verifies and uploads with no error but can't get it to work as a game controller. Please help Thanks :)
Hi to you i have all the things that you have but i can uploaded to leonardo ? or there is more to download from library manager to update leonardo it and which file ftom library manager? Regards simon
Thank you for this tutorial. I just finished mine and while I simplified the hardware, epoxyed the potentiometer to the inside and left the master cylinder in, the tutorial and the arduino sketch were really helpful
just finished mine, works really well, thanks for the video, great addition to my sim. Instead of using a spring tho, you could just use the hydraulic component on it. Plug the hydro lines and use the compressed air. Works well
Thanks for the awesome tutorial. I didn't have any spare metal to make a plate or bracket with so I just modeled up my own and 3d printed them. Works awesome! Thanks again.
eZaF serial First: ive never done anything like that, Never soldered or anything like that :D It took like 5 hours because i have no 3D printer, i cut the parts i need out of plexiglas! Just don't forget when ur programming the chip to tell the programm where to put it :D I was sitting there for 2h yelling to my pc xD
Awesome! Have been wanting to add a DIY handbrake to my setup, have a few parts already here and a few still on the way, can't wait to put it all together! Thanks for the great video and parts list, and also thanks to Dominic for the 3D printed parts :)
Thank you very much for this very complete tutorial! I 've just tested the code with Arduino with a rotational potentiometer and it's working. I'm looking forward for all hardwares to be arrived to test it in the game!
Hi, thanks for your video-tutorial, it looks great! Just a question, you did a couple of holes on handbrake sides, do you have a reference file or drawing for them?
Hi man, i already make this project base on yours, but i don’t know why when my robotdyn mega 32u4 connected to my pc, the driver read it as a keyboard and mouse, not read as joystick driver , can you please tell me the hint if you don’t mind , thanks before
@amstudio can you update the spring link, that in the discription is not valid any more. I've built it and the only thing missing is the spring. I just cant find the right one.
I am really interested in building this, but I have several questions. If you could answer them that would be great. 1. Where can I buy the exact potentiometer, spring, rubber stop, and the wiring? 2. What size nuts and bolts did you use? 3. How can I make the aluminum back plate, carbon fiber pot holder, and the tab for the slider?
hey can you tell me why on my dirt 4 you don't recognize the handbrake? I did everything right but when configuring the key the game does not recognize!
I started this project and damnit I need to finish it! Then I'll need to figure out the next phase of getting this project done...implementation into my Obutto setup. Thanks for keeping this up along with the github link. Really appreciate this!
Is it possible to make an analogue pressure sensitive button instead? Something that's easier to clamp on to a portable setup like a wheelstand pro without having to add more bulk to the setup.
You could probably as well keep the hydraulic cylinder and have a analog pressure sensor or switch connected to the Arduino and get a more "realistic" feel, and if you get the right hose, fittings, and sensor, it could even be easier to assemble if you you don't mind using a wrench. Would not be AS cheap though.
Hey! The handbrake won't be recognized as a game controller. It only shows up as a keyboard/mouse. I've followed your tutorial completely. Do you think it has anything to do with the soldering?
gracias por este tutorial al final me decidi ha hacermelo y ahora tengo un freno de mano analogico por menos de 15 euros, otra vez muchas gracias , eres un genio , amigo ;)
Have you ever thought of making a ratchet handbrake which can lock and therefore act as an analog parking brake? Or how about modifying one from Thrustmaster, Fanatec or Moza to plug directly into their respective wheelbases?
Nice work, Good build :D Great video. but it would be more easy to Add the Slave cylinder that pull clutch.. add rubber or spring of a valve.. and mount the Electronics on that end. have a full Hydraulic E-brake. Ofc. Hydraulic is not really something one needs for e-brake Normal Brake pedal with Hydraulic would be a good Next video huh ? :D
Looks like you can get one without a clamp for $81 or with clamp for around $110. If I were to try and build it I calculated around $87 without a clamp. So if you want a custom one that may take longer to build this is great but if you just want one fast for a good price their out there! Awesome video!
I have ordered mine, I already have the potenciometer (which cant find 40mm at all, beilive they do no exist and the right is 45mm so if you could just check yours and maybe change the description?) the Usb thingy is coming in the next few days, and withing the next week or two hopefully arrive the E-break, then a quick visit to bunning or any other hardware store, and ready to roll. thanks man, your channel is awesome, yor videos coud not be more clean, simple and clear, but yet interesting and helpful. you saved me a lot of money as i wanted t buy one fanatec handbrake, and they arent cheap. thanks again.
hey Amstudio, is there an email or something i can get to contact you, other than a coment on a video? becauise i have a problem with the handbrake, and cant understand were is the problem, all mechanical part works, i i thing the mod itself if perfect, i think the problem is or the cable/wires or the software, or something i am doing wrong in the computer. looking at forums and stuff but they talking alien language to me, looks like english but i cant understand what they are saying!!! so i could use a bit of your help or anyones if someone reads it and know a bit of arduino stuff.
If you're using an Arduino ProMicro like linked in the desc, download the Arduino IDE/Software here (downloads.arduino.cc/arduino-1.8.2-windows.exe), install it, copy the "Joystick" folder in the download ZIP here (github.com/AM-STUDIO/Analog-E-Brake) to the place shown in the video (C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries), then double click on the "ANALOG_EBRAKE.ino" file to open it up in the IDE. Plug in the ProMicro, go to "tools > board" and select the *Arduino/Geniuno Micro* option, and then whichever COM port the ProMicro pops up under "tools > port". Once all that is done, click "Verify" then "Upload" as shown in the video. That's about the best I can explain it at least.
THAKS A LOT, that was the problem i was having back then, I figured all out a day after I wrote the message, but thanks anyway, i could be useful for someone else for sure, my proiblem now is different, and havent found solution yet, but i find hard to explain in english as its my second language, i am sure there is a easier way to say but I´ll try my own way: -Frist of all, when the potetiometer is all the way up (so not using the handbrake) it not in 0% in fact its already in 18%, so the cars are a little bit slower due to that, its not a huge difference but its not optimal. (I believe I found what is the problem here, but havent try to fix it yet, I think I tighted too much the nuts when I "sandwiched" the potentiometer and something inside is bended or something llike that) -And finanally my second and more annoying problem, and the biggest so far is, when I dont pull the eBrake, the device goes like into standby mode or something like that,(goes to sleep) as its disconnected from windows, and as soon as I touch the handbrake its conected again, but the problem is for example in Dirt Rally once the device is disconnected, the race stop, saying that "the controller" stoped, and then all the configuration goes back to keyboard. and I have to set up the wheel all over again, in Asseto Corsa only stop working the eBrake once its disconected and does not work againg until you manually set it up again in the control menu, which you cant access from the race menu, you have to go all teh way back to the main menu. so its a big pain and for that reasson I havent use the eBrake yet, because I havent been able to make it work so far, I know one day it will, and it will be beautiful, but so far I had no luck. Thanks a lot, GREAT community you are creating down her amstudio, good feelings.
hi guys, ive been trying to made the handbrake, I almost made them. I tried to upload the sketch to micro board but it has a wrong message says "avrdude: butterfly_recv(): programmer is not responding". im using SainSmart Nano v3.0 Compatible with Arduino. Can anyone please help me solve this problem ?
THIS THING RIPS! I just finished mine off and let me tell you, it is amazing. I took me a little while to upload the Arduino files due to the fact my Library was in DOCUMENTS. If anyone else intends on making this, would highly recommend on plugging in the micro USB into the board and never touching it again. Fix the cable to the frame of the hand brake like in the video (zip tie or whatever) because I neglected to do this and ripped off the micro USB female jack on the board. Has anyone figured out a way to run this in multiple games other the Assetto Corsa and Dirt Rally? I tried to run it in Forza 7 and I am unable to invert the input from the HB and it is always on.
Congratulations for everything you do. I did the video and when configuring it in a game the Arduino Leonardo detects me but does not know what device it is. How do you configure arduino leonardo in Dirt Rally 2.0 or Assetto Corsa or similar? Thanks
Just an FYI for people who can't find the Arduino Micro properties.... Go to Control Panel -> Hardware and Sound -> Devices and Printers Find your arduino project can have a different name than his... Click "Game Controller Settings" then "Properties" and the tab labeled "Settings" This is where you can calibrate your handbrake Hope I helped some of you!
Hi, sorry for asking, but I still cannot find it as there isn't an option Control Panel -> "Hardware and Sound" only "Devices and Printers" but when I click there, the arduino project does not come up at all. Could you please help me out?
Top Man, got yourself a sub & a fan thanks to this video, I have the skills needed to build it but had no clue what electronics I needed to make it analog. Having previously tried using a button which gives a simple on/off action & an analog joystick which doesn't pull in a straight line or have any resistance either, now I have pretty much all the info I need I guess it's time to start building :)
@@lucaschupbach852 Not really my idea, every usb hanbrake you will find on AliExpress or banggood works that way.It depends how strong the magnet will be i think.
Wow awesome video man, as always great quality. Once I get my g920 I'll get my tools ready to try this out. I can't wait it seems like fun. Thanks for another great tutorial.
I'm planning on doing this on the weekend but decided to look at the sketch, I'm not sure what the difference is but I had to add Joystick_ Joystick under #include . Otherwise I got a Declare issue with Joystick in void loop.
all up, AUD $84.50 to make, that's pretty good in my book for a force sensitive gaming e-brake, + 3D printed components so like $88 - $90? affordable and looks fun to make.
Lol i keep trying to find where you bought this! I can't believe you made this man you should consider making this into a side hobby to make them for people! Id pay you well money to make me one for sure!!!!!
where do you go for the calibration? You just pulled up a window. Would be nice if you could show us how you got there as I cant find that window anywhere. I just got done building one and using your video to set up the arduino pro micro but need that step
thanks for sharing your design , i made my own yesterday and it works grate . can confirm it also works on forza motorsport 7 and forza horizon 4 on pc
What do I have to do in Order to make it work for horizon4? I get the calibration done but I cant set it as a button or Even axis ingame... I also don’t get what he is doing 9:19 and ongoing... is it ingame Settings? Your help is highly appreciated
I built this handbrake several years ago. Thanks for the tutorial! However, I am considering an upgrade that includes running a s-beam load cell inline and to fill the M/C with elastomers. Will a load cell amplifier feed the same data to the Pico as the slider or will I have to start from scratch?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Check the description for more info and parts list
@Amstudio what was the length of that spring? BTW great work..
The length of the spring would be awesome. And maybe also (some pics with) measurements of the holes you have to drill to install the poti and the other 3d printed parts (i don't have a 3d printer). I'm sure i'll figure it out myself when i have the handbrake in my hands, but it would be a bit more easy if you could provide the data (as far as it is not to much work). Thanks =)
Your spring looks much better than what the guy providing the 3D model in your link took. Is it the 1.5x15x35mm lenght? Thanks for making these awesome video tutorials, m8!
amstudio work on ps4? Thanks happy new year
Can i use this in nfs payback or forza horizon 3???
I just wanted to say that, as an electronics/Arduino enthusiast, even though I don't particularly enjoy racing games, your projects are awesome. Amazingly simple, yet extremely practical and elegant. You, Sir, are what engineers should aspire to be.
I have that handbrake for last 4 years lies next to the computer waiting for an idea how to make it work on pc games. This is the best tutorial and easiest way to do it. I ordered my potentiometer and Pro Micro and i cant wait to finish this VIP. TNX for great video.
Kkkjnkl
Looking mb8
@@abductedfatima4394 هلو انت سعودي
Those who have any issues with message "The Joystick library can only be used with a USB MCU (e.g. Arduino Leonardo, Arduino Micro, etc.)." You need to select correct board on TOOLS->BOARD->ARDUINO/GENUINO MICRO. And you should chose correct COM port on TOOLS->PORT->.
brother, you have save m'y Life 😍
Thank you, it works!
u are god
Mate, that was helpful! Now it compiles...
Legend
Nice, it even has carbon fibre for weight reduction
I thought your picture was filthy Frank at first
Carbon Le fibré
Thank you so much! This is like the coolest thing ever. So glad i didnt have to pay the 150 for the fanatec ebrake, ended up only costing about 60-80$ + i got a learning experience out of it!
Good work Jack, Enjoy!
Great tutorial, and I made one for myself using your video as my main guide. Can't thank you enough!
But because I had a slightly longer potentiometer, and because I found that the value would wrap-around at the tiniest misalignment. So for example pulling the brake lever hard down to the bottom, sometimes resulted in actually applying 0-2% brake instead.
So I made a small change to your code, added a "constrain" operation before the map operation, like this:
pot = constrain(pot, *min pot value here*, *max pot value here*);
Gave me more consistency and effectively dead zones at min and maximum, so the break is never slightly on or off when it shouldn't be.
Thanks again for putting this video up here, you are a legend!
Hey there, I have the same problem since I'm using a larger potentiometer. Would you please mind to help me with the correction of the code? Many thanks!
Yeah i having the same issue, how do i correct the issue??? please help, thanks. taking a screenshot of the code would help a lot!
Hey man,
Mind explaining what tha constrain does and what programming language that is? If I had to guess Java, but not understanding what you said is killing me.
mind helping with where you put that line?
I know basics of arduino programming but I've been trying different things and doesn't seem to be working. Thanks
As anyone managed to sort out this situation? Just finished mine but had to use a 60mm potentiometer.
FOR THOSE ASKING ABOUT SPRING LENGTH: You'll want a 45mm long spring with a 2mm thick wire
spring thickness DOES NOT necessarily = strength. check the metal hardness and spring ratings.
Thanks for the info.
What should be the Out Diameter of the spring? 15mm? so, 2mm X 15mm X 45mm
THANK YOU MAN!
I just bought these parts. Noticed that the potentiometer I got didn't look exactly like the one in the video. The pins had different locations. For those of you that can't calibrate yours after building it. Make sure that "analog read" is connected to pin 2. If you switch the other two, 1 and 3. That will just make the pot work backwards. It's no 2 that reads the movement. Good luck.
were they labelled with numbers on your one? thank you
Hi , I need little bit of help. As I saw in the video his potenciometer has 2 pins on one end and 1 pin on other end. Mine has 4 and 2. Where should I connect VCC , ground and A0 ? Because on his it looks easy but with 6 pins I have no idea which should I connect where.. I waited 30 days for my parts , so I don't wanna ruin it. Thanks for your answer
i got nothing happening in calibration. even switched 1 and 2 just to be sure
now its flickering like a rave party. gotta be some shitty soldering mby
great tip! thanks
Awesome man! I was willing to spend $150 in a hand brake and be killed by my wife, but seeing yours, I think I'll follow your path. Really awesome project.
+Gean Gabriel yeah not worth getting killed over a handbrake : )
amstudio dude shoot me an email at stevenospina1@gmail.com i want to commission you make one please hit me up im super interested thanks!!
can you link me to the potentiometer you used. im finding it extremely hard to find one that is 40mm and has the same soldering tabs as yours
They're on ali express where the handbrake is. Just search 10k potentiometer
how do you connect from Terminal Layout / Circuit Diagram on potentiometer 1 goes to where?? on the pro micro and 2 goes to Where on the Pro micro ?? and then 3 gives it selves thank you
For people struggling with needing a "deadzone" this is how I got around that issue.
void setup()
{pinMode(A0, INPUT);
Joystick.begin();}
const int pinToButtonMap = A0;
void loop()
{int pot = analogRead(A0);
pot = constrain(pot,117,1017);
int mapped = map(pot,117,1017,0,255);
// pot = constrain(pot,500,1023);
{Joystick.setThrottle(mapped);}}
The "pot= constrain(pot,117,1017) came from the minimum and maximum limits of my build. you'll need to find these by uploading a sketch that creates an output of these values in serial monitor. Once you find your minimum and maximum just change replace 117 and 1017.
good luck!
From start to finish, covering all the aspects... Thanks a lot, this is a great tutorial!
Thanks !
amstudio for the potentiometer is it the audio or linear taper ?
amstudio Hi, awesome video. I've just built mine but I can't calibrate it. It comes up as undefined in the control panel. It verifies and uploads with no error but can't get it to work as a game controller.
Please help
Thanks :)
Finally I've done it! Took some time to work out wear to find everything, but now it is up & running. Absolutely awesome DIY kit. Thank you.
Thanks Enjoy!
To anyone who might be getting the "not declared in this scope" error, add "Joystick_ Joystick;" (without the quotes) just below the "#include " line. Apparently, the new version of the Joystick Library needs that line to create the virtual joystick. I figured this out by looking at the examples provided in the library itself, specifically the JoystickTest sketch. Hope this helps. This is an awesome project!
This line is already in the current library file for me so i don't think this applies anymore
Thanks tho
im getting an error reading
#error The Joystick library can only be used with a USB MCU (e.g. Arduino Leonardo, Arduino Micro, etc.).
any help?
Thanks!!, making a second one for a friend and wondering why the hell the sketch is not working
@@ravny1257 Hi I get the same error. Do you fixed yours yet?
I love you so much thank you for the fix
If I'm correct you need to drill four holes to put the bolts through the handbrakes' mount. It wasn't mentioned in the video even though it could clearly be seen. Would you mind sharing how you determined the position of these holes?
i wont even make this shit but still watched. great vid.
same thought xD
I mean I'm most likely gonna make it one a get a new wheel, probably a Logitech G920, to replace my Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 wheel
Raceboy123 I'm Gona do the same thing as u m8 I'm Gona do this for my g920 that me Gona get and the shifter for it as well as a stand a few other things from amstudio I might do the rev lights idk but yer
You are wrong cause it aint shit
OMG man, you re using a real brake pump, your projects are insane
thanks you make it very easy and simple to replicate this project. thank you for all the videos 🙏
Hi, awesome video. I've just built mine but I can't calibrate it. It comes up as undefined in the control panel. It verifies and uploads with no error but can't get it to work as a game controller.
Please help
Thanks :)
What the heck is the white-grey thing in wiring example ??
it is sliding potentiometer
Hi to you
i have all the things that you have but i can uploaded to leonardo ? or there is more to download from library manager to update leonardo it and which file ftom library manager?
Regards
simon
Thank you for this tutorial. I just finished mine and while I simplified the hardware, epoxyed the potentiometer to the inside and left the master cylinder in, the tutorial and the arduino sketch were really helpful
for help wiring on 2 and 4 pins. 2- left ground , right empty , 4- first red ,middle two weld, right yellow
Mr.Djrmx I have 6 :(
@@glauxde4246 just try witch one works u cant destroy it by trying same way i do.
What way do I need to look at the pot to make that work though
Brilliant. Just made mine using your guide and it works perfect. Ended up being my first ever Arduino project. Total cost was only £28 here in UK.
Hi can you send me the details for design i really want to make o of those.
I made It!! It's really awesome to play with this handbrake. Thanks for all your videos.
Mate im so glad i found your channel just awesome. Thanks so much for sharing.
just finished mine, works really well, thanks for the video, great addition to my sim.
Instead of using a spring tho, you could just use the hydraulic component on it. Plug the hydro lines and use the compressed air. Works well
Could be adjusted to be a collective control for helicopter too.
Thanks!
Thank you!!
Playing some real Melbourne house bangers. Great video bro
Thanks for the awesome tutorial. I didn't have any spare metal to make a plate or bracket with so I just modeled up my own and 3d printed them. Works awesome! Thanks again.
Nice work!
I MADE IT :D
Finally^^
Thank you!
works perfect!!!!!!!
PRNC how long did it take you? Im thinking of trying this out.
eZaF serial
First: ive never done anything like that, Never soldered or anything like that :D
It took like 5 hours because i have no 3D printer, i cut the parts i need out of plexiglas!
Just don't forget when ur programming the chip to tell the programm where to put it :D
I was sitting there for 2h yelling to my pc xD
PRNC hahaha sounds like a project. I'll give it my best shot.
will do man.
Congratulations man! Could you tell me the size of the compression spring I have to choose?
Awesome! Have been wanting to add a DIY handbrake to my setup, have a few parts already here and a few still on the way, can't wait to put it all together! Thanks for the great video and parts list, and also thanks to Dominic for the 3D printed parts :)
Update: All done, works like a charm, can't thank you enough for this great tutorial!
sis you get trouble with the progam to launch the software ?
Can't I just buy one? And where?
ManAmal Reacts fanatec club sports
You could but their about $100 on amazon I'm building one for $30
Why TF are you even watching DIY videos if you're too lazy to DIY 🤣🤣
@@miliano8274 He might not have the right tools or buying it may be easier.
Lolmikez cane you sent me the link? And is it good for ps4?
Thank you very much for this very complete tutorial! I 've just tested the code with Arduino with a rotational potentiometer and it's working. I'm looking forward for all hardwares to be arrived to test it in the game!
Awesome tutorial the only thing i would like to know is where did you drill the holes in the Handbrake for the slide poti?
Hi, thanks for your video-tutorial, it looks great! Just a question, you did a couple of holes on handbrake sides, do you have a reference file or drawing for them?
Hello,
Thanks for great guideline! Is it possible to take a picture of holes for potentiometer with measurements?
Could you tell me the technical characteristics of the spring?
Or what kind of spring would you need? I only need that...ty!!! nice video man!
me too
Finished it! And it works great!!!! Thank you for a great HandBrake! :)
Awesome enjoy!
Hi man, i already make this project base on yours, but i don’t know why when my robotdyn mega 32u4 connected to my pc, the driver read it as a keyboard and mouse, not read as joystick driver , can you please tell me the hint if you don’t mind , thanks before
@amstudio can you update the spring link, that in the discription is not valid any more. I've built it and the only thing missing is the spring. I just cant find the right one.
Made this, So happy with it :) thanks
Has anyone got this to work with project cars 2 ?
Yep works like a baby crying
idk dont ask wtf i just said
so beautiful
Awesome build man!
Great! Can you do this with a load cell?? Thank you!
Awesome build! great work thanks!
I am really interested in building this, but I have several questions. If you could answer them that would be great.
1. Where can I buy the exact potentiometer, spring, rubber stop, and the wiring?
2. What size nuts and bolts did you use?
3. How can I make the aluminum back plate, carbon fiber pot holder, and the tab for the slider?
Michael Park its all linked in the description and the rubber and the spring are from the master cylinder that comes with the handbrake
Clever stuff. And you were probably able to sell that discarded master cylinder on Ebay... offset the costs. Great video
Thanks PropanePete
YES! i did it!!!! AWESOME! thank you! =) work perfect! tested on Assetto Corsa, Dirt Rally and Dirt 4!
hey can you tell me why on my dirt 4 you don't recognize the handbrake? I did everything right but when configuring the key the game does not recognize!
Another great video..an yup i am going to build this.. looks like fun.. just waiting on my parts to get here... thanks...an keep up the good work!!
Thanks BIGCHEW!
Hey! Is it possible to buy these from you? Im interested in a dash display and a handbrake? Is that possible?
yeah, me too
Well, bit late, but I can definitely build it for you
I started this project and damnit I need to finish it! Then I'll need to figure out the next phase of getting this project done...implementation into my Obutto setup. Thanks for keeping this up along with the github link. Really appreciate this!
My Anolong slide had 4 prongs on one side and 2 on the other what one do I use?!!
Could you use it ?
Brandon_Mac270 the one I purchased is like this as well. Did you figure it out?
@@bansheerider666 multimeter guys
The one he is using in the video also has 4 and 2. Too bad that he doesn't explain how to do it, did anyone make it work?
Is it possible to make an analogue pressure sensitive button instead? Something that's easier to clamp on to a portable setup like a wheelstand pro without having to add more bulk to the setup.
AWESOME, can u give the "length" of the spring?? I can't recognize it from the Ebay Description, it seems an important date
Its in this gray thing (sorry i dont know what its called) and then just use the master spring, he also made a video 'bout it
Hi mate, I am stuck here: how do you open this calibration software you show on 8:42?
Hi, could you tell me where to buy all the components to mount that handbrake, thank you very much and great work as aero
im making a list for all of the things that he used, I only need to know how that button is called
LorkZ Do you mean the potentiometer?
LorkZ Can you send the list to me please ?
www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-45mm-B10K-10K-Linear-Taper-Slide-Potentiometer-w-Center-Dent-Red-LED-/261218767654?hash=item3cd1da1326:g:Uu0AAMXQzkZRmy9m
www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-E-Brake-Hydraulic-Drift-Handbrake-Vertical-Horizontal-S14-AE86-Durable-/252731484110?hash=item3ad7f867ce:g:cZ8AAOSwNnRYgNeg&vxp=mtr
www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Micro-ATmega32U4-5V-16MHZ-for-Arduino-Controller-Board-Panel-Compatible-Nano-/252522765630?hash=item3acb879d3e:g:7ZAAAOSw-kdXyYwT
www.ebay.com/itm/Black-2M-6-5FT-USB-2-0-Cable-Type-A-Male-to-Type-A-Male-Data-Extension-Cord-/332048488885?hash=item4d4fa1d9b5:g:gh0AAOSw5cNYPjtI
www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Line-Compression-Spring-0-041-X-1-2-X-1-1-2-Steel-Polybag-Of-2-/272057101857?hash=item3f57ddee21:g:mNwAAOSwZQRYWrWE
aside from this you will need some hardware like the washers nuts bolts and you will have to make the plate
you should sell them as a kit and option of pre-built ones. nice job
Will this work on Xbox?! And is there anyway to link the usb to the one from the steering wheel?
You could probably as well keep the hydraulic cylinder and have a analog pressure sensor or switch connected to the Arduino and get a more "realistic" feel, and if you get the right hose, fittings, and sensor, it could even be easier to assemble if you you don't mind using a wrench. Would not be AS cheap though.
Hey! The handbrake won't be recognized as a game controller. It only shows up as a keyboard/mouse. I've followed your tutorial completely. Do you think it has anything to do with the soldering?
Did you solve the problem? I'm having same issue and im sure many others are as well.
Bump, same here
i have the same issue
Markus Romeis make sure to use a high speed micro USB cable
Same problem here ! I have Leonardo Arduino as keyboard and not as game controller...
Have you solve the problem with another cable or anything else ?
Any idea how to replace the analog with a digital push button?
I can't figure where to put it
Can you give me the reference of the potentiometer
gracias por este tutorial al final me decidi ha hacermelo y ahora tengo un freno de mano analogico por menos de 15 euros, otra vez muchas gracias , eres un genio , amigo ;)
Great !
Sirve en ps4?
grotesck como lo has configurado? Me lo podrias explicar lo tengo casi todo echo hasta el punto del test pero en ese punto nose como seguir
what are the dimensions of this spring?
Very nicely done and I really want to build it but I do not know how I could go about making the brackets that are needed. Any pointers?
Can be a linear 45mm potentiometer or a mono potentiometer 100mm?
35mm-45mm will work
amstudio but mono or linear?
Have you ever thought of making a ratchet handbrake which can lock and therefore act as an analog parking brake? Or how about modifying one from Thrustmaster, Fanatec or Moza to plug directly into their respective wheelbases?
Hi, what size spring did you use?
He has the parts list in description
Thanks man, successfully made the handbrake and mount. Works great :)
Nice work, Good build :D Great video.
but it would be more easy to Add the Slave cylinder that pull clutch.. add rubber or spring of a valve.. and mount the Electronics on that end.
have a full Hydraulic E-brake.
Ofc. Hydraulic is not really something one needs for e-brake
Normal Brake pedal with Hydraulic would be a good Next video huh ? :D
Looks like you can get one without a clamp for $81 or with clamp for around $110. If I were to try and build it I calculated around $87 without a clamp. So if you want a custom one that may take longer to build this is great but if you just want one fast for a good price their out there! Awesome video!
You should produce these and sell them. I would be a customer :)
Very helpful good quality. I appreciate the links. Keep it up man
what was the total cost?
MOM GET THE CAMERA!
I have ordered mine, I already have the potenciometer (which cant find 40mm at all, beilive they do no exist and the right is 45mm so if you could just check yours and maybe change the description?) the Usb thingy is coming in the next few days, and withing the next week or two hopefully arrive the E-break, then a quick visit to bunning or any other hardware store, and ready to roll. thanks man, your channel is awesome, yor videos coud not be more clean, simple and clear, but yet interesting and helpful. you saved me a lot of money as i wanted t buy one fanatec handbrake, and they arent cheap. thanks again.
Thanks for the feedback, enjoy the build.
hey Amstudio, is there an email or something i can get to contact you, other than a coment on a video? becauise i have a problem with the handbrake, and cant understand were is the problem, all mechanical part works, i i thing the mod itself if perfect, i think the problem is or the cable/wires or the software, or something i am doing wrong in the computer. looking at forums and stuff but they talking alien language to me, looks like english but i cant understand what they are saying!!! so i could use a bit of your help or anyones if someone reads it and know a bit of arduino stuff.
If you're using an Arduino ProMicro like linked in the desc, download the Arduino IDE/Software here (downloads.arduino.cc/arduino-1.8.2-windows.exe), install it, copy the "Joystick" folder in the download ZIP here (github.com/AM-STUDIO/Analog-E-Brake) to the place shown in the video (C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\libraries), then double click on the "ANALOG_EBRAKE.ino" file to open it up in the IDE. Plug in the ProMicro, go to "tools > board" and select the *Arduino/Geniuno Micro* option, and then whichever COM port the ProMicro pops up under "tools > port". Once all that is done, click "Verify" then "Upload" as shown in the video.
That's about the best I can explain it at least.
THAKS A LOT, that was the problem i was having back then, I figured all out a day after I wrote the message, but thanks anyway, i could be useful for someone else for sure, my proiblem now is different, and havent found solution yet, but i find hard to explain in english as its my second language, i am sure there is a easier way to say but I´ll try my own way:
-Frist of all, when the potetiometer is all the way up (so not using the handbrake) it not in 0% in fact its already in 18%, so the cars are a little bit slower due to that, its not a huge difference but its not optimal. (I believe I found what is the problem here, but havent try to fix it yet, I think I tighted too much the nuts when I "sandwiched" the potentiometer and something inside is bended or something llike that)
-And finanally my second and more annoying problem, and the biggest so far is, when I dont pull the eBrake, the device goes like into standby mode or something like that,(goes to sleep) as its disconnected from windows, and as soon as I touch the handbrake its conected again, but the problem is for example in Dirt Rally once the device is disconnected, the race stop, saying that "the controller" stoped, and then all the configuration goes back to keyboard. and I have to set up the wheel all over again, in Asseto Corsa only stop working the eBrake once its disconected and does not work againg until you manually set it up again in the control menu, which you cant access from the race menu, you have to go all teh way back to the main menu. so its a big pain and for that reasson I havent use the eBrake yet, because I havent been able to make it work so far, I know one day it will, and it will be beautiful, but so far I had no luck.
Thanks a lot, GREAT community you are creating down her amstudio, good feelings.
hi guys, ive been trying to made the handbrake, I almost made them. I tried to upload the sketch to micro board but it has a wrong message says "avrdude: butterfly_recv(): programmer is not responding". im using SainSmart Nano v3.0 Compatible with Arduino. Can anyone please help me solve this problem ?
THIS THING RIPS! I just finished mine off and let me tell you, it is amazing. I took me a little while to upload the Arduino files due to the fact my Library was in DOCUMENTS. If anyone else intends on making this, would highly recommend on plugging in the micro USB into the board and never touching it again. Fix the cable to the frame of the hand brake like in the video (zip tie or whatever) because I neglected to do this and ripped off the micro USB female jack on the board.
Has anyone figured out a way to run this in multiple games other the Assetto Corsa and Dirt Rally?
I tried to run it in Forza 7 and I am unable to invert the input from the HB and it is always on.
Congratulations for everything you do.
I did the video and when configuring it in a game the Arduino Leonardo detects me but does not know what device it is.
How do you configure arduino leonardo in Dirt Rally 2.0 or Assetto Corsa or similar? Thanks
Just an FYI for people who can't find the Arduino Micro properties....
Go to Control Panel -> Hardware and Sound -> Devices and Printers
Find your arduino project can have a different name than his...
Click "Game Controller Settings" then "Properties" and the tab labeled "Settings"
This is where you can calibrate your handbrake
Hope I helped some of you!
Hi, sorry for asking, but I still cannot find it as there isn't an option Control Panel -> "Hardware and Sound" only "Devices and Printers" but when I click there, the arduino project does not come up at all. Could you please help me out?
Top Man, got yourself a sub & a fan thanks to this video, I have the skills needed to build it but had no clue what electronics I needed to make it analog. Having previously tried using a button which gives a simple on/off action & an analog joystick which doesn't pull in a straight line or have any resistance either, now I have pretty much all the info I need I guess it's time to start building :)
Nice! Enjoy the build.
my mirco pro isn't detected as a game controller, any help ?
Do fix it? What was the Problem?
just finished this build, works great thanks!
Awesome enjoy!
Teaches us to make sequential change
I made it too. But i used an analog hall sensor (ky-035) and a magnet instead of the potentiometer. It works nice. That way is more timeproof.
Good idea. How far can it detect the magnet?
@@lucaschupbach852 Not really my idea, every usb hanbrake you will find on AliExpress or banggood works that way.It depends how strong the magnet will be i think.
You connected it in the same way as the potentiometer?
@@Szopqq yes the same way. Opposite to the sensor.
Sell those please. A lot of us can’t get out hands on those things!
Wow awesome video man, as always great quality. Once I get my g920 I'll get my tools ready to try this out. I can't wait it seems like fun. Thanks for another great tutorial.
You are awsome :D can you upload a part list?
...did you not check the description?
I'm planning on doing this on the weekend but decided to look at the sketch, I'm not sure what the difference is but I had to add Joystick_ Joystick under #include . Otherwise I got a Declare issue with Joystick in void loop.
it would be better if you put text instructions on videos like before
could you please upload the CAD or PDF file oh the "metal mod" behind the handbrake???
its genius!
Thanks!!
all up, AUD $84.50 to make, that's pretty good in my book for a force sensitive gaming e-brake, + 3D printed components so like $88 - $90? affordable and looks fun to make.
nice
Is that hot glue that you use to mount the circuit board to the e-brake? No adverse effects?
The music ruined it
Great job. I can’t see where exactly you wiring the cables in potentiometer
Lol i keep trying to find where you bought this! I can't believe you made this man you should consider making this into a side hobby to make them for people! Id pay you well money to make me one for sure!!!!!
Hi, Is it possible to have the Program to operate both the handbrake and the buttonsbox with the same Arduino pro micro? Thanks a lot
where do you go for the calibration? You just pulled up a window. Would be nice if you could show us how you got there as I cant find that window anywhere. I just got done building one and using your video to set up the arduino pro micro but need that step
thanks for sharing your design , i made my own yesterday and it works grate . can confirm it also works on forza motorsport 7 and forza horizon 4 on pc
What do I have to do in Order to make it work for horizon4? I get the calibration done but I cant set it as a button or Even axis ingame... I also don’t get what he is doing 9:19 and ongoing... is it ingame Settings? Your help is highly appreciated
@@kolbinator8882 how did you get your usb handbrake worked in fh4? Its been months haven't fix this and doing research.
hey
What spring dimensions did you use? Great video!
I built this handbrake several years ago. Thanks for the tutorial! However, I am considering an upgrade that includes running a s-beam load cell inline and to fill the M/C with elastomers. Will a load cell amplifier feed the same data to the Pico as the slider or will I have to start from scratch?
A few questions: What size compression spring? What size rubber stop? What size nuts, bolts and washers?