Lawn boy mower, cylinder boring, honing, piston fit, after sleeving
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- In this video I finish sleeving the Lawn boy cylinder by boring, honing, and fitting the piston. I also do the port chamfering. The old book that I have states a .005 piston cylinder gap, I decided to go for .004 sence the advent of better two stroke oils.
Bringing back some memories! My Dad had one of these lawn boys. I watched your first videos last year. Loved them, keep up the good work!
Yes, I have some of the same. My dad did his mowing with one. I have his and my Grandpas Lawn boys, and an 84 model I bought new, and a snowblower that I came by last year for 100.00 bucks and another one I found for 20.00 that I bought for parts but when I put fuel in it...it started. So now I have 4 good mowers and a snowblower. Life is good. You should look around, they are still out there.
Nice work! Still catching up on old videos. They're a pleasure to watch.
Cheers,
Peter.
Thanks again Peter.
Great series! Another D series LB saved from the scrap pile.
Yes sir, got to keep them going, still the best mower in my opinion. Love that 2 stroke smell.
got to love the old lawn boy i found in the frash 30 years ago. wish i still had it. anyway i made it, 4:23 am Monday. coffee in hand!
Man, I bet you wish you had held on to it. They sell at ridiculous prices these days; I just enjoy mowing with them. Still the best mower, light weight, just enough power, and that great two stroke smell...makes me want to pop a wheelie with one. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me Frank.
Very nice to see you doing this. Always like a good Lawn boy video.
Thank you, hope to do some more, took a long time to finish this one. Thanks for watching.
Really interesting stuff Dale, the fixture was a stroke of genius.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks buddy, it has been a on again, off again, project for many years, finally getting it finished up. Still got to do a lower bearing retrofit. This will replace a bushing with a needle bearing on the lower crankshaft support. I did one about 10 years ago that is still running. I just want to do another as a RUclips project. Always looking for projects for the channel. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. Thanks, brother, for your support.
@@montana2strokeracer most of the mowers here from the 60s were four stroke sidevalves. Suffolk, Atco. There were two strokes in the 50s with J.A.P engines.
You could run it on castor and pretend you are riding at the TT as you cut the grass!
great job as always dale great job keep it going
Thanks Mark, appreciate you spending time with me in the shop.
That’s some smart stuff
Thank you for videos
Thanks Wally...seems I have seen your name associated with lawn boys online somewhere, I'm just sure you have done some of this type of work, or maybe installing needle bearings in the lower end. Or both. Thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
@@montana2strokeracer just a Suzuki and Lawnboy fan
But have worked on many over the years. Synthetic Oils the trick
Well brother I will watch in the morning. 9:51 here.
Roger that Cain, its cold and dark here, nothing else to do but make videos.
Looks good brother.
Thanks Cain, thank for being here.
see your furry shop manager is keeping a close watch on your work!
Yep, the boss.... keeps me company and lets me know when it's time to eat.
Nice! We fix anything and everything too!
Dale, what speed do you like personally (rpms) on the mill for boring?
I sure would love to see you do a cylinder bore on the lathe!
Keep up the great work!
Yes, around here I guess I'm Mr. fix it. So, folks seem to think. I have a love for anything 2 stroke, nothing against 4 strokes, and I have many, but they just don't hold the same mystic. As far as the boring on the mill, I generally run at 135 rpm. Most folks run faster than that, I'm just not in a hurry, and I can watch what is going on more easily. I have bored cylinders on the lathe, usually very small, 100 cc or less because the boring head just won't go in the cylinder. Yes, I could use a little dinky boring bar on the boring head but there is just too much flex going that route. So, when I bore on the lathe, I typically use a 1-inch boring bar that I made from 4140 to reduce that flex. Also, another issue with boring on the lathe is that you have to build a fixture to hold the cylinder, much like the one I made for the lawn boy. This takes a lot more time and if you're doing it for someone, that also increases the cost. So, in that case one would be ahead to send it to someone that had a boring bar such as a Kwik Way. I have looked for one for years, but they tend to be very expensive, for being 50 or 60 years old. I have been talking with an American manufacture about a new one, but we still haven't come to an agreement on price. Plus, the shipping is terrible right now for something like that. Hey thanks for following the channel and for your comment.
Thanks Dale. I really do love your videos, and am closing in on having watched all of them. Soon, I'll be "chafing at the bit for more new ones every day.
Hey! We bought a 1978 Suzuki DS185 today! It's complete, supposedly ran a few months ago, is not locked up, and we only paid 300 bucks! Cool companion to our 1978 Suzuki PE250 we're also restoring.
Is there any way to contact you directly??
Thanks and take care!
@@MrVonfelde Thats a great find, guess you will busy for a while restoring those. yep contact at dsweger@bresnan.net
you are making a mistake .. the two screws on the outside are only for tightening the wedge so that there is no play. only use the one in the middle to loosen when you give the rope, the other two must be adjusted so that the sled can only run.. sorry my bad English. I think you understand what I mean
Not real sure what you are referring to. Are you talking about the boring head gib screws? I know your trying to help and I sure appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
First
Nice to see you in the front row, where's Frank?