Really enjoyed the voice overs about strength gains versus technique necessary to send hard. I’ve only got access to a 2016 moonboard and decent rock is like 2 hours away so in the same boat.
A video where you explain how you use your board to gain strength would be interesting, sounded like a cool idea :) Also, which app do you use to catalog boulders on your wall? It didnt look like Stokt.
I'm at a very similar point in my climbing having progressed fast with training and then got a 10 and stepping back from strict weights training to do more climbing. I'm now close to my first v11 (achieved in two parts) and I'll just say as a point of reference, what helped my climbing was getting on rock more and understanding how to try hard there because trying hard indoors vs outdoors is a different ballpark. Anyway just want to say you're on the right track and keep at it! 💪
That’s awesome! I’m glad to hear someone else who’s kinda at the same point as me with things. And yeah I agree, getting out on the rock is honestly what I could use the most right now, hopefully I’ll be able to get some sessions soon 😁 Goodluck on your 11 too, got me psyched to go out now!
There is a lot of merit to building a wider base in your grade pyramid and i think statistically people break past grade boundaries more consistently (able to climb a variety of styles at that grade) if they work on that base. I see a lot of strong climbers these days with all the power but no technique.
Yeah I think that’s a really good point. Even when I feel like my technique is okay on stuff more around what I should be able to do in like 5 tries, I feel like my tactics on moderates is super underdeveloped, I feel like I lack experience in those grades a few under my max that require figuring out beta relatively quickly while your still fresh enough to send the same day
I'd bet your hamstring isn't too weak for that particular heel hook, it's that you haven't had to pull like that before. For something like that you could try 'greasing the groove'. Essentially you need the coordination to be developed rather than pure strength.
Oh I might have misspoke, I have ways to train my fingers, not my pulling. I choose not to train my fingers right now since I’m board climbing so much, and my spray wall takes so much out of my fingers already. I have a hangboard and lifting blocks to train if I want to, which work good in different situations
@@gingobingo1567 it might seem like it’s long, but it’s normally right around 2 hours and I rest a tonnnn, so it’s actually very few actual attempts on the wall. It’s a 40 degree board, same as the moonboard 😎
New favorite rock climbing youtuber
You’re too nice 😭 thank you!
Really enjoyed the voice overs about strength gains versus technique necessary to send hard. I’ve only got access to a 2016 moonboard and decent rock is like 2 hours away so in the same boat.
Thank you! I think it’s a really interesting topic that doesn’t always get a lot of nuance. Yeah the struggle is real 😭
keep up the work it will pay of trust brother
Thank you :D I definitely will
There's a charm to this video i cant put my finger on. I dig it.
Thank you! I’m glad you like it 😁
A video where you explain how you use your board to gain strength would be interesting, sounded like a cool idea :)
Also, which app do you use to catalog boulders on your wall? It didnt look like Stokt.
Okay sweet, I’ll definitely make a video focusing more on that in the future :D and yeah I’ve been using an app called Retro Flash
I'm at a very similar point in my climbing having progressed fast with training and then got a 10 and stepping back from strict weights training to do more climbing. I'm now close to my first v11 (achieved in two parts) and I'll just say as a point of reference, what helped my climbing was getting on rock more and understanding how to try hard there because trying hard indoors vs outdoors is a different ballpark. Anyway just want to say you're on the right track and keep at it! 💪
That’s awesome! I’m glad to hear someone else who’s kinda at the same point as me with things. And yeah I agree, getting out on the rock is honestly what I could use the most right now, hopefully I’ll be able to get some sessions soon 😁 Goodluck on your 11 too, got me psyched to go out now!
Could you explain how 'trying hard' indoor and outdoor is so different?
@@deserv3 For sure! I was already planning to make a video comparing indoor and outdoor climbing, so I’ll make sure to cover that in the video too 😁
There is a lot of merit to building a wider base in your grade pyramid and i think statistically people break past grade boundaries more consistently (able to climb a variety of styles at that grade) if they work on that base. I see a lot of strong climbers these days with all the power but no technique.
Yeah I think that’s a really good point. Even when I feel like my technique is okay on stuff more around what I should be able to do in like 5 tries, I feel like my tactics on moderates is super underdeveloped, I feel like I lack experience in those grades a few under my max that require figuring out beta relatively quickly while your still fresh enough to send the same day
I'd bet your hamstring isn't too weak for that particular heel hook, it's that you haven't had to pull like that before. For something like that you could try 'greasing the groove'. Essentially you need the coordination to be developed rather than pure strength.
Yeah that’s a really good point. That would make a lot of sense, I feel like I get more recruited on my heel hooks as my sessions go on
Another awesome video good luck on v11
Thank you!
I would love to see a vid abt switching from traditional climbing training to training through climbing
I’ll definitely make a dedicated video soon focusing on what I’ve experienced switching between the two 😁 thanks for the input!
Great video! Curious what part of the country you're climbing in
Around the Pacific Northwest, mostly Oregon, Washington, California
Could we have a video on how you designed/ built your home wall?
Yeah I’m down to explain how I did it, I don’t think I have much from actually building it aside from a few progress pics, but I’d love to go over it
@@tommysegovia that would be super cool!
*great content btw, def new fav climbing channel👍
@@hotchipssalt4516okay I’ll definitely add that to the video list! Thank you so much 😁 I’m glad you’re liking it!
Just wondering since you mentioned you have no way to specifically train your fingers in your home setup, what kind additions would you consider?
Oh I might have misspoke, I have ways to train my fingers, not my pulling. I choose not to train my fingers right now since I’m board climbing so much, and my spray wall takes so much out of my fingers already. I have a hangboard and lifting blocks to train if I want to, which work good in different situations
@@tommysegovia Makes sense! I feel like board climbing is a great way to recruit and coordinate your fingers in general anyway :)
@lostinfailure I agree, and I think the benefits to body tension are insane
You should check out Channing Gray’s series if you haven’t seen it.
Just did! I hadn't seen his videos before, great mention! Dude is on that grinddd
You goin for sensei as your first 11?
I think so. It’s one of the closest 11s, plus I already have most of the moves worked
How many sessions a week do you do in the board
Normally I’ll do 2 days on the board, 1 rest day. Sometimes taking extra rest days if needed. So it’s like 4-5 days a week normally
@@tommysegovia how long?
@@nm-ue9oishorter sessions, normally like 2-3 hours max of actual climbing
@@tommysegovia 2-3 hours is a long session 😭 What angle is the board at?
@@gingobingo1567 it might seem like it’s long, but it’s normally right around 2 hours and I rest a tonnnn, so it’s actually very few actual attempts on the wall. It’s a 40 degree board, same as the moonboard 😎