Make sure the thread sealant is completely dry before testing it, also u can use a silicon caulk instead of the thread sealant just make its dry before using it. ALuminum manifolds are good but they tend to leak at times specially if u over tight the fittings, due softer nature of aluminum they tend to expand and or crack.
Groovy video, thank you for all the info and I recommend making a “wire tool” out of a nut, bolt and washer (videos available) it can seal the hose ends with two tightly wrapped wires for a very secure air fitting to hose connections. Peace.
Thanks Kevin for taking the time to make this detailed video, I'm looking at doing the same thing and this really helps. Just wish the parts here in Australia were less expensive, however might just order and wait for delivery from the USA, although looks like the hose is out of stock - your video made them sell out!!
Great video. I like the idea of the 5 way manifold for the options of the Scharader or the air coupler. My air compressor uses schrader so I’ll make use of that valve but if mine breaks down on the trail I could use someone else’s air compressor that might use couplings.
I really wanted to make one, I already use flexible for the pressure cleaner and my single air hose, after pricing up the parts I found the TUFF TERRAIN MULTI TYRE DEFLATOR KIT (4 VALVE) is priced at 96usd or 149 aud, parts are price here in Australia
This is pretty nice... I was thinking about making a different version of this out of 1/2 hard pipe that will be strapped to side of frame and using just short lines to quick disconnects under vehicle near each tire
Thanks for the great tip!, I always thought about getting one of these, but never pulled trigger they were kinda pricey, maybe i will try this this time
I used Flexzilla hose to set up my inflation system. My original plan was to use brass ferrules for a clean look and to stay away from hose clamps. I didn't realize until later that 1/4" ID flexzilla hose is slightly smaller in OD compared to regular 1/4" ID air hose, so the crimping tool would never get enough bite on the hose. A machinist at our shop made an insert for the crimper that managed to get the job done. For manifold, I used a 5-way anodized hex manifold from McMaster-Carr (P/N 3490N12) with a 3/8 inlet and 5x1/4" outlet. A little pricey (about $40) but helped to keep things small.
Those metal clips always wear out the weak metal threads on the valve stems. A clip on right angle rubber type is actually better. Psi matters more when airing down. The difference between 14 and 15 psi doesn’t matter but 6 and 5 psi can be a serious issue. Especially deep snow 5 and 4 psi.
I had considered that ( something like a 4 way staun deflator) but I feel it would likely slow down the air down process quite a bit. It would be pretty easy to add that to one of the manifold ports on this build if anyone wanted to try.
Air pressure regulators slow the volume of air passing as they reach the desired setting. Fine for an air tool, but very slow if used to fill an enclosed space. What you could do is use an adjustable differential pressure switch (like on a garage air compressor) wired into one of the portable electric pumps to shut it off at your desired setting.
Thank you for making this video, it was awesome! I found it while doing research for my own air system, and I learned a lot from you. Do you think stepping up to 3/8" or 1/2" hose would increase inflation / deflation speed?
Awesome video!! one question. I am about the get this kind of tire deflator system from some one. But when I look at the product it seem like they dont have a shredder valve and my air compressor has shredder. How do I air up the tires ? Thanks!
I noticed when you were airing down, the gauge on manifold drops to zero, and it isn't until you close the valve that you can see how much you've aired down to....is there a way to get the gauge to show "real time" so you don't have to intermittently close the valve to check your psi?
i think to get closer to real time pressure when deflating would require restricting flow and in this case i prefer maximum flow to speed up the deflation time. After you use this and get used to it , you start to get a feel of when enough air is out, and then you can close the valve and fine tune from there. hope that makes sense
Going to make one of these. Some folks seem to think they need 3/8” hose. I like the idea of the more compact 1/4 inch. What do you think, having used this for a while? Thanks!
I had initially done 3/8 but the choke points are the schrader valves at the tires not the hose diameter... 3/8 also got really bulky. I think 1/4" is the way to go.
@@lonelydriver82 Exactly! Not to mention, my Viar 300P pushes under 2 cfm over 20lbs anyway. I am going to go with the digital gauge because it is backlighted. Most of my airing up is after dark in the cold here in Wyoming after a day of hunting in my Silverado 1500 4x. I use flashers and a strobe but standing on the road side of the truck is hazardous. I have done air-up in the dark in full whiteout conditions. I also plan to put an anderson plug up front for power so I don’t need to open the hood in the Wyoming winds. Good way to ruin a hood or loose a finger. Next year an ARB onboard for sure. It is amazing how outside the hardcore 4x crowd, airing down is not done much. The much less wear and tear on my truck is worth it alone. Not to mention I use 4x a lot less which means less chance of a snapped cv. Thanks again for the video! New sub now!
Great stuff here! I recently made a 2 way system. Tried to make the setup as packable as possible, also went with 1/4" ID for the hose. Hows that working for you? I've heard that it can be hard on the compressor. The first test run went well, just wondering about long term.
My thought is the choke point is actually the Schrader valves.. and since there are now 4 to fill simultaneously it should be better as far as compressor resistance.
Nice video! Got a sub from me! I was about to pull the trigger on one from morrflate or desertarmor but now in wondering if I just build my own. How much do you think you spent for everything, excluding the compressor?
You can use any air compressor that uses a shrader valve, I also use it to decompress the system by pushing the little pin when I'm done airing up, makes it easier to remove the air chuck fitting from the compressor
I built 3 at the same time so cost me a little over $100 each, if you just build 1 it's closer to $130 with alot of parts left over cause do the way Amazon sells the fittings. Best to build it together with some friends.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Make sure the thread sealant is completely dry before testing it, also u can use a silicon caulk instead of the thread sealant just make its dry before using it. ALuminum manifolds are good but they tend to leak at times specially if u over tight the fittings, due softer nature of aluminum they tend to expand and or crack.
Built one for myself based on your design. So glad did. Thanks for sharing
awesome! glad this was helpful!
I totally agree with the analog gauge vs digital. not convenient to deal with dead or corroded batteries
I put electric grease on my battery for my digital gauge and haven’t had a problem
Groovy video, thank you for all the info and I recommend making a “wire tool” out of a nut, bolt and washer (videos available) it can seal the hose ends with two tightly wrapped wires for a very secure air fitting to hose connections.
Peace.
Thanks Kevin for taking the time to make this detailed video, I'm looking at doing the same thing and this really helps. Just wish the parts here in Australia were less expensive, however might just order and wait for delivery from the USA, although looks like the hose is out of stock - your video made them sell out!!
Just bought the Napa pump, thanks for this DIY upgrade.
Nice they work great together!
Great video. I like the idea of the 5 way manifold for the options of the Scharader or the air coupler. My air compressor uses schrader so I’ll make use of that valve but if mine breaks down on the trail I could use someone else’s air compressor that might use couplings.
Awesome setup thanks for sharing I need to make one also configure it to use with my semi truck 10 tires it would be great again thanks again
Your videos are super helpful, great ideas, keep ‘em coming! Cheers from Australia.
I really wanted to make one, I already use flexible for the pressure cleaner and my single air hose, after pricing up the parts I found the TUFF TERRAIN MULTI TYRE DEFLATOR KIT (4 VALVE) is priced at 96usd or 149 aud, parts are price here in Australia
Sounds like a great deal and easy decision!
thanks for posting, I have watched a few similar videos, yours is the best.
Thanks man , glad it helped!
Yo dope video and thanks for the links makes it easier !!
Thanks for the great research. I'm going to make one following your video.
Love the detailed description of everything, great content.
Thanks man hope it's useful!
Got my sub. Just picked up a HJ61, 60 series lover here as well. Great vids...
60 series rock!
😊😊😊 you answered my question about best hose material for cold weather 👍 thanks for the great video
This is pretty nice... I was thinking about making a different version of this out of 1/2 hard pipe that will be strapped to side of frame and using just short lines to quick disconnects under vehicle near each tire
Add a bag for the hose and stuff please!
Thank You!
Check Harbor Fright
Very well explained and described - thank you!
Hope it helps!
Really smart system, thanks
Oetiker clamps
Thanks for this video!!! New Subscriber🏁
Good system!
Thanks for the great tip!, I always thought about getting one of these, but never pulled trigger they were kinda pricey, maybe i will try this this time
Thanks sharing, it is valuable. How you air down without unscrew the shread valve in the tire ?
The fitting that goes on the tire depresses the shrader valve so that air flows
@@lonelydriver82 Thanks
Very cool 👍 thank you for sharing this. 😊
Hope its helpful!
I am making this for my 2019 Tundra. What are the Hose lengths you used to construct this. All of the individuals lengths would really help. Thanks!
I used Flexzilla hose to set up my inflation system. My original plan was to use brass ferrules for a clean look and to stay away from hose clamps. I didn't realize until later that 1/4" ID flexzilla hose is slightly smaller in OD compared to regular 1/4" ID air hose, so the crimping tool would never get enough bite on the hose. A machinist at our shop made an insert for the crimper that managed to get the job done. For manifold, I used a 5-way anodized hex manifold from McMaster-Carr (P/N 3490N12) with a 3/8 inlet and 5x1/4" outlet. A little pricey (about $40) but helped to keep things small.
Hbh j
😮xh5😅🎉
Thank you for sharing!
Super video! Thank you.
Great video!! Thank you!!
What would you use the shrader valve for in the manifold for though?
Great video! Did you have any recommendations on other manifolds to get?
I'd look into the brass ones not as cool looking but should seal better
Those metal clips always wear out the weak metal threads on the valve stems. A clip on right angle rubber type is actually better.
Psi matters more when airing down. The difference between 14 and 15 psi doesn’t matter but 6 and 5 psi can be a serious issue. Especially deep snow 5 and 4 psi.
Cool! 😎
Pretty good.
I like your system, do you have Amazon names/part numbers/etc.?
Thank You!
In the description:)
Why not a regulator so you can ensure the tires automatically stop at the right pressure?
I had considered that ( something like a 4 way staun deflator) but I feel it would likely slow down the air down process quite a bit. It would be pretty easy to add that to one of the manifold ports on this build if anyone wanted to try.
Air pressure regulators slow the volume of air passing as they reach the desired setting. Fine for an air tool, but very slow if used to fill an enclosed space. What you could do is use an adjustable differential pressure switch (like on a garage air compressor) wired into one of the portable electric pumps to shut it off at your desired setting.
Nice setup. What is that“air” bottle that shows up in the video?
It's a c02 tank setup, aka diy powertank
Great video!
Thanks Dean!
Thank you for making this video, it was awesome! I found it while doing research for my own air system, and I learned a lot from you.
Do you think stepping up to 3/8" or 1/2" hose would increase inflation / deflation speed?
If space is no concern sure but 3/8 is really bulky .. I also think the shrader valves are the limiting factor
Sorry I might have missed it, How many "T" fittings did you get? I think only 2 are needed but wanted to be sure before I buy.
Thanks great video
Just 2!
Awesome video!! one question. I am about the get this kind of tire deflator system from some one. But when I look at the product it seem like they dont have a shredder valve and my air compressor has shredder. How do I air up the tires ? Thanks!
Yeah most of those don't have a Schrader valve.... So u need to buy and adapter , or just build one :)
@@lonelydriver82 Thank you so much! That help a lot.
I noticed when you were airing down, the gauge on manifold drops to zero, and it isn't until you close the valve that you can see how much you've aired down to....is there a way to get the gauge to show "real time" so you don't have to intermittently close the valve to check your psi?
i think to get closer to real time pressure when deflating would require restricting flow and in this case i prefer maximum flow to speed up the deflation time. After you use this and get used to it , you start to get a feel of when enough air is out, and then you can close the valve and fine tune from there. hope that makes sense
@@lonelydriver82 it does! thanks man! great video
Going to make one of these. Some folks seem to think they need 3/8” hose. I like the idea of the more compact 1/4 inch. What do you think, having used this for a while? Thanks!
I had initially done 3/8 but the choke points are the schrader valves at the tires not the hose diameter... 3/8 also got really bulky. I think 1/4" is the way to go.
@@lonelydriver82 Exactly! Not to mention, my Viar 300P pushes under 2 cfm over 20lbs anyway. I am going to go with the digital gauge because it is backlighted. Most of my airing up is after dark in the cold here in Wyoming after a day of hunting in my Silverado 1500 4x. I use flashers and a strobe but standing on the road side of the truck is hazardous. I have done air-up in the dark in full whiteout conditions. I also plan to put an anderson plug up front for power so I don’t need to open the hood in the Wyoming winds. Good way to ruin a hood or loose a finger. Next year an ARB onboard for sure. It is amazing how outside the hardcore 4x crowd, airing down is not done much. The much less wear and tear on my truck is worth it alone. Not to mention I use 4x a lot less which means less chance of a snapped cv. Thanks again for the video! New sub now!
If I use the 1/4” flexzilla, should the hose barb size be 1/8”? I see items in you list for both
1/4" hose should use 1/4" barbs - Kevin
Great stuff here! I recently made a 2 way system. Tried to make the setup as packable as possible, also went with 1/4" ID for the hose. Hows that working for you? I've heard that it can be hard on the compressor. The first test run went well, just wondering about long term.
My thought is the choke point is actually the Schrader valves.. and since there are now 4 to fill simultaneously it should be better as far as compressor resistance.
The "Barbed Air Hose fittings" you link to are 1/4" barb to 1/8" NPT... those won't work for this "Kit"
Thanks looks like Amazon switched it's listing, I'll update
Great video, why did you decide to go with 1/4 hose instead of something like 3/8?
I did 3/8 initially but it was too bulky and 1/4 inch wasn't restricting air flow, it's the schraeder valves that restrict the flow.
Nice video! Got a sub from me! I was about to pull the trigger on one from morrflate or desertarmor but now in wondering if I just build my own. How much do you think you spent for everything, excluding the compressor?
Check video description, It was around $120 when I built it, you can do cheaper if you build more than one with a friend, you can do it!
What would you use the shrader valve for?
You can use any air compressor that uses a shrader valve, I also use it to decompress the system by pushing the little pin when I'm done airing up, makes it easier to remove the air chuck fitting from the compressor
How much total did you pay for the 4way inflator setup?
I built 3 at the same time so cost me a little over $100 each, if you just build 1 it's closer to $130 with alot of parts left over cause do the way Amazon sells the fittings. Best to build it together with some friends.
Would you recommend the flexzilla hose for hard mounting to a rig?
I don't see why not, but a cheaper alternative I think would work just as well since it's not moving around much.
The bottom neck is the pathetic electric compressor, install an AC compressor on board.
❤❤
All that to fill tires. Just do one at a time and call it a day this is just lazy