Man this is so awesome to share this knowledge and experience. Thank you so very much. I am going to give this a try after I master the tire making process. Great stuff!!!
superb video, I've been struggling for a long time to determine how to mold parts with windows. I guess by having the window indented on the first mold, it will connect with the plug blocking off the windows.
I made some semi truck hoods using this idea. The space in the thickest part such as the center of the body, I dug out a hole to go part way in just to give the second mold rubber some flex to get it out easier.
@@shotgundave92584 I tried that because I had a hard time getting the mold rubber out of a hood one time. So I cut away some of the rubber which made it more flexible but still held the shape.
sulpher free modeling clay... sulpher can inhibit certain types of silicone cure... since the clay is reusable, best to get the sulpher free like chauvant.
@@shotgundave92584 AHA. Thought so. I do Hot Wheels interiors with lead. Same silicone, well, almost, bubble free. The silicone I use can handle the heat. Thinking of pewter for the actual bodies only for the OLD cars you cannot get anymore. I'm told it shines up nice and paints very well. However, not sure what to do about the chassis'
This was really great, thanks! Been thinking of making molds for a few of my cars so this was awesome to see. How is the process different for fiberglass compatible molds, if at all?
Hello there,great info here!As I want to make something like this for H0 slot cars,just want to ask.The clay you used is not curing by the air,am I right?We need the clay to be soft after the silicone cure so we can put it out.
Thanks Carlos. Hope it helps. Yes, you could make a fiberglass body with the mold. Just use the main part. You wouldn’t need the plug. Just lay up your fiberglass in the body mold.
Hi Dave can you please recommend the type of clay and silicone that you used? I was looking at The Brick In The Yard site and they have many types of each
Hey Gene. Glad to hear you're giving it a try. I use Magikmold P-525 silicone. For the clay, I've been using the Monster Clay but it's a little expensive. So I'm going to switch to the Protolina Clay. It's really cheap and will do the same job. Hope that helps.
Hi Dave, I received my order of Magikmold, EasyFlow and clay but when looking at the size of the Magikmold Silicone mixes I dont think I will have enough to make a 2 part mold. Apporximately how much do you use for the tupperware container that was in this video?
@@shotgundave92584 Hi Dave my plans is to cast a 1/32 scale '67 Mercury Cougar. I bought the 2lb kit, so its not the gallon size. I guess I should get some more. in the mean time I can race the car some more 🙂
@@shotgundave92584 Hi Dave, i now have enough Magikmold. I have another question for you. You mention that the next step is to secure the pedistal to the lid, how do you do that? Are you gluing it down or just molding the clay to the lid? Thanks, Gene
Развлечения
Very cool. You make it look easy, making the body model is the hardest part I bet.
Thanks Michael. It really isn’t too hard. Just time consuming. And you’re right, getting the master is the hardest part.
Thanks from Australia Dave. I appreciate the time that you shared mate. Keep well
Thanks Neil. Appreciate it. Plenty more coming.
Thank you,I have been wanting to learn how to make bodies and you make it look easy! Thanks man!
Glad to help Keith! I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
Great Video Dave 💯 Thanks
I'm building my Library of your How To's and after my move I plan on having as much fun as you!
Budget allowing of course 😆😎
That’s fantastic Rudewayz!! So glad to hear that!
Damn Dave, that mold is bullet proof
Lol! Yeah, it will be around for a long time John.
Thank you Dave I will be using this information in my slot car hobby.
You’re welcome McCrae! Glad to help.
Man this is so awesome to share this knowledge and experience. Thank you so very much. I am going to give this a try after I master the tire making process. Great stuff!!!
Thanks PF! Glad it helps. I look forward to seeing anything you create.
Dave you are an artist.👍
Thanks Bubba. Appreciate that.
superb video, I've been struggling for a long time to determine how to mold parts with windows. I guess by having the window indented on the first mold, it will connect with the plug blocking off the windows.
Thanks a lot. Glad to help.
Very Nice Thanks for Sharing Dave!
Glad you like it Dan!
Another great video thank you!
Thank you! Glad to help.
I made some semi truck hoods using this idea. The space in the thickest part such as the center of the body, I dug out a hole to go part way in just to give the second mold rubber some flex to get it out easier.
Thanks Crushing Vanessa. That’s a good idea. Saves on silicone too.
@@shotgundave92584 I tried that because I had a hard time getting the mold rubber out of a hood one time. So I cut away some of the rubber which made it more flexible but still held the shape.
Great info, I cant wait to see your next video
Thanks Gene. Appreciate it.
That is an awesome tutorial. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Awesome! Glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for this video!
Quite welcome D:B’s. Hope it helps.
i need that one for my plymouth GTX 1969
*Fantastic video my friend~I had to Subscribe to your channel :))*
Thanks Ratt. I appreciate it!
very informative !
Thank you Richard. I appreciate it.
Nice video Dave! I have a couple Ford coupes that might be candidates.
Thanks Bill. What coupes do you have? Are they 1/32 scale?
@@shotgundave92584 My coupes are 1/24 scale, one is a stock '40 Ford. the other is a cut-.down '30 something I got years ago on eBay
Hey Dave! Great tutorial! Can you send me the product names or the links so that I can order? I would appreciate it. Thank you!
sulpher free modeling clay... sulpher can inhibit certain types of silicone cure... since the clay is reusable, best to get the sulpher free like chauvant.
You are absolutely right. The clay I use is indeed sulfur free.
Thank you! Do you have links to the products you use? Maybe you can put them in the description of the next video? Much appreciate the tutorial 👍
Thank you! I’ll get the links for you. I need to do better at that for everyone. Thanks for the suggestion!
What about putting vasoline on the outside of the body? It will come out easier. Think, so?
Thanks Keith. It would come out easier. But the drawback is that it would leave marks in the mold, that would show up on every body that was cast.
Did you have to brush down outside of the car body( with decals and numbers)with Vaseline before using modelling clay to fill the inside?
No Vaseline is needed until you have to pour silicone on top of silicone.
THANK YOU! are you gonna make a video on pouring the body?
Thank you Chiefland. Appreciate it. Yessir, I’m going to get a video uploaded in the next day or so showing how to use the mold to cast.
Very nice. I am waiting on what you pour into the mold. Thanks. Metal, plastic, resin??? Thanks.
Thank you! Yes, I’ll be uploading a video on the pour very soon. It will be with resin.
@@shotgundave92584 AHA. Thought so. I do Hot Wheels interiors with lead. Same silicone, well, almost, bubble free. The silicone I use can handle the heat. Thinking of pewter for the actual bodies only for the OLD cars you cannot get anymore. I'm told it shines up nice and paints very well. However, not sure what to do about the chassis'
And yes, I made a few videos about it a year or so ago. It's the blue silicone, kin of expensive.
This was really great, thanks! Been thinking of making molds for a few of my cars so this was awesome to see. How is the process different for fiberglass compatible molds, if at all?
Glad to help! I have not done fiberglass. But I would imagine that the same process would work.
@@shotgundave92584 Many thanks 🙏 Either way now I can make spare bodies for my resin cars I want to race but too afraid to haha
@@GoldCountrySRA I have a few like that too!
Hello there,great info here!As I want to make something like this for H0 slot cars,just want to ask.The clay you used is not curing by the air,am I right?We need the clay to be soft after the silicone cure so we can put it out.
Thank you for the video, its possible to make a slot car body with GELCOAT & FIBREGLASS with this molds?
Thanks Carlos. Hope it helps. Yes, you could make a fiberglass body with the mold. Just use the main part. You wouldn’t need the plug. Just lay up your fiberglass in the body mold.
@@shotgundave92584 Do you have any videos about fiberglass bodies?
@@carlosmanuelferreiraantune1800 Sorry Carlos, I don’t. I’ve never actually made a fiberglass body.
Hi Dave can you please recommend the type of clay and silicone that you used? I was looking at The Brick In The Yard site and they have many types of each
Hey Gene. Glad to hear you're giving it a try. I use Magikmold P-525 silicone. For the clay, I've been using the Monster Clay but it's a little expensive. So I'm going to switch to the Protolina Clay. It's really cheap and will do the same job. Hope that helps.
@@shotgundave92584 Great, Thanks Dave
Hi Dave, I received my order of Magikmold, EasyFlow and clay but when looking at the size of the Magikmold Silicone mixes I dont think I will have enough to make a 2 part mold. Apporximately how much do you use for the tupperware container that was in this video?
Did you buy the quart or gallon size Gene? The amount you get depends on the size of your project.
@@shotgundave92584 Hi Dave my plans is to cast a 1/32 scale '67 Mercury Cougar. I bought the 2lb kit, so its not the gallon size. I guess I should get some more. in the mean time I can race the car some more 🙂
@@SpareRoomSlotCars that’s a sound plan Gene!
@@shotgundave92584 Hi Dave, i now have enough Magikmold. I have another question for you. You mention that the next step is to secure the pedistal to the lid, how do you do that? Are you gluing it down or just molding the clay to the lid? Thanks, Gene
@@SpareRoomSlotCars I just mold the clay to the lid. You can use a little hot glue if you think it might not hold. Hope that helps.