Your video is a little over 10 years old so I hope this comment finds you well. I thoroughly enjoyed your video, probably more than I'll enjoy doing what I just watched. I've seen several tutorials on this job and your way looks the best by far. Thanks for taking the time to post this, it's selfless acts of kindness like this that really helps people out. Best regards
Thanks so much for uploading this video. I read and searched before getting started, and this video really made all the difference. Using the pointed chisel displaced a lot of the rivet making drilling go much faster, and helped to get them out. But I'd of been lost without this video. Thanks man.
This is an excellent video. You're obviously southern; my mother is from late 1920's Alabama. Thanks for the thorough and direct information from a sharp mechanic. You explained everything perfectly; I was with you every step of the way.
Great video, your way is by far the best. I struggled with mine until I found your video and had them out in no time. I know how much of a pain it must have been to stop and film everything, but you are a lifesaver.
This worked perfectly!!!! I tried with a torch and hitting it with a punch for 2 hours, about to give up and replace the whole lower control arm. When I came across this video, you are a life saver. If you are ever in the Illinois area hit me up, I’ll buy you all the beer you can handle. Thanks again.
I have a 95 K1500 and the lower ball joints are exactly like this. This is the best video I have seen as to, how to, go about getting those rivets out. I had the rivet heads off but wasn't making any headway trying to pound them out. Drilling more and then smacking the piss out of them (like you showed) is the answer. Using a hard bolt as a punch is also a brilliant solution! Great video...Thank You!
Thanks for the video *Don't forget that for those original joints without grease fittings, you can buy a cheap grease seek needle accessory for your grease gun. This allows you to pierce the rubber boot and inject grease, so they don't wear out in the first place. You only have to add grease once a year*
I'm not a macanic but I have done a lot of my own work. Never replace a ball joints. With that said you explain the steps very well. I was able to complete my projects in 2 hrs that upper and lower on both sides. I didn't disconnect brake line I keep it attach to cliaber and lay it to the side. Thanks so much for taking time to show us how to do it. Locally in Nicholasville, Ky price $650 plus parts. I'm not broke but badly bent, so saving the labor cost was a big help
Excellent video - Thanks for posting. I was stuck at grinding off the top of the rivit and then followed your instructions for drilling and got them out.
Guys, don't give up on it. The first time a replace the ball joint on my pickup took me 3 hours using the drill, torch and pneumatic tools This Rams are like rocks!
Fantastic video. I did my ball joints this weekend, it took probably 12 to 15 hours to do, with some help, but I had to grind rivets off, and we were outside in the cold rain and sleet. I took the rotor and calipers off and tied them up, which worked fine and my steering knuckle refused to come off the bottom ball joint, so I ground between the knuckle and ball itself off and then hit the threaded end of the ball joint out of the knuckle. Thank you so much for this video it helped alot! Worth it
Was working on my 2004 Chevy Silverado and the bottom ball joint is the same as your Dodge. Thanks so much for this video! I was so mad that the rivets were not punching out.
THE OTHER DAY, I SAW SOMETHING ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD THAT INTERESTED ME & apon stopping, I found several things, including a big washer, & a bolt that I picked up to use for punching out rivets & then I see you using the same technic!!! cool
So. So many thank yous are given from me to you for this video. You don’t know how much you helped me get those damn factory assembly out! The use of prying on the upper control are as leverage for the drill. OMG! That’s the shit! Not to mention the clear explanation of the step drilling the rivets! Thank you a million times over for taking the time for this personal information experience on this subject. BTW. Love the floor jack on gravel! Same here half the time!
Great vid ..I have been pounding on mine for 4 days now ..never thought to drill the rivets ...tryed it ...and it only took 2 wacks each nd the came rite out ...your a lifesaver
I did mine at my automotive school, we heated up the tops nice and cherry red then scraped them off with an air chisel, then heated up the ball join sections with the rest of the rivets in them one by one and got them out with an air hammer. This vid helped me do the other side at home though so thanks.
This is the best DIY video. I appreciate the details Nugget. Hope your mechanical skills take you far bud. I knocked this task out with ease thanks to your video.
are you a mechanic by trade? if not, you are very skilled and seem better than many pros. your videos are short and to the point. seems like you are very efficient as well. you have a good narrating voice and your instructions are thorough. i hope you'll post more vehicle repair videos, perhaps a video telling people a little about yourself. take care.
I used the torch to cut the upper rivets out. When looking at the lower there is a rubber bushing close to the left rivet. If I was to use my cutting torch on these rivets I would melt the rubber bushing. How did you manage to do yours without ruining the rubber bushing? Great Video!!!!
been using a air hammer on my buddy;s dodge dakota and got the top ball joint out no prob,, but your right those bottum are a biotch !! I got one with the air hammer other three drilling,, video got some new ideas,, thanks man !!
Tips to others 1. Don't rush drilling, my dad broke a pilot bit in a rivet, and it got stuck, destroying almost any other bit that hit it, and it made that rivet take like 4 to 6 hours. 2. This is more of just emphasizing, but don't be a little girl about this stuff, hit the top ball joint HARD to get it out, and when you are taking the knuckle off, hit it HARD.
Well I almost did the same thing except I ground my heads off with a grinder and then drilled them out and punched them out and it worked great. Now on to the next side next week. You really don't need a cutting torch even though I do have one I didn't like the idea of heating the metal up too high. It tends to weaken it. But great video.
HEY BUD, IM INTERESTED IN KNOWING WHAT DRILL BITS DO YOU USE & WHERE DID YOU GET THEM FROM? ALSO, DID YOU USE OIL OR NOT? OR PENATRATING SPRAY TO COOL THE DRILL BIT? (SEEMED TO ME THAT WHEN I USED P.B. BLASTER,IT SLOWED THE CUTTING PROCESS) I FOUND THAT ONLY COBALT ENFUSED DRILL BITS WILL CUT THREW METAL!!! ALSO, POSSIBLY GOOD MASONRY BITS W/CARBON TIPPED BUT, ONLY IF THEY ARE SHARPENED 1ST.(SO I WAS TOLD BY A MACHINE SHOP OWNER). I ENJOY AUTOMOTIVE WORK,(ANYTHING WITH A MOTOR REALLY), METAL FAB, & TILE & MASONRY. I AM CURRENTLY DRILLING OUT MY BALLJOINTS & INSTALLING NEW INNER & OUTER TIE RODS, & wheel bearing & hub ON MY ZETEC FUCUS! GOOD VIDEO MAN!
My comment got cut off. Sorry. I have 46re it was. Not shifting , hanging up, saw your video, ordered part numbers you showed and plan on doing tomorrow, one thing I'm lost on, band adjustment, Ido you do it to spec 72lbs or did you do free hand? I have a cheap harbour freight torque wrench. Not sure if it will do, as well do I need to torque the pan? Or just do in a criss cross even pressure t? Thanks for the confidence..199 dakota
I've always just took an angle grinder to the rivets with a grinding wheel and it takes about 15 minutes per joint. Cut off the heads and then a punch and a hammer whack and it is out.
Anyone know what size socket for the axle nut? I’ve searched the entire internet and alls I can find is the size for the 2500 and the 4wd which is 43mm and that’s way to big for my 2 wheel drive
2012nugget awesome job! saved my ass a lot of time, I created a youtube account just to thank you, so.... Thank You...Still sucky job, but I did it pretty fast, drilled them out then used an air hammer, cut the top one off with a cutoff wheel on my grinder. Bad design? or good design? my truck is 12 years old, so hats off to dodge!
I wish you would have shown putting the spindle back onbecause I had about 2in of Gap in between the upper ball joint and control arm cuz I put the ball joint on the spindle first then I had to really cranked down on the control arm to start my bolt & nut I just wasn't sure if that was normal I gotthe new ball joints back in and the spindle on but I took everything off separately so now I have to put the brake calipers and everything back togetherbut I didn't want to do that until I got some advice cuz I don't want to take it all back apart or have my wheel fall off going down the road lol 😂
Well I'm going to tackle this next weekend, I may or may not do upper ball joints too. This weekend I replaced the heater core and installed a new dash top (DRD8-1).
Just did one Today upper and lower ball joints,had no drill or drill bits,had to cut ball joint off with torch,and then melt away the metal that the rivers were stuck in,what a fucking disaster, charged the guy 100 bucks for both sides.Think I had a mini stroke hammering the piss out off the rivets without drilling them.After the mini stroke and a shit attack.The rivet didn't budge nothing not even a sliver.I did it the super hard way,next time I ain't touching them without your step by step procedures.
Yeah those rivets are a horse to remove. I did pretty good with an air hammer with a chisel attachment and chiseled out the heads. Took me about two hours for both sides. Too bad I didn't have a torch.
Found it easier to use a grinder with a grinding wheel, not a cutting wheel, and go right thru the middle of the rivet head. Couple good hits with a hammer and chisel popped the rest of the rivet head off.
Damn I took everything off separate I had a feeling you could take it off like thatbut it was my first time doing the ball joints so I just took everything apart separately 😂
To a spec? I assume do the evenly and cross CEOs to not bind. But specific. Torque needed? I have a harbour freight torque wrench. That is it and I doubt it is reliable, even tho it's new.... I'm doing it to or row after ups drops off the pressure celenoid and govener... I have the. Hold at 3 grand. Problem. Ur video. Made me order parts not go to the trans guyfor 600$.
a bit shade-tree... - none are hardly the same... seems every year/model is some new shite to deal with - place no less than 2 jacks under, including a stack of well crossed and squared off wood 4x4 2x6 1x4 mixture or bigger under the frame so if jacks fail vehicle is already resting on the wood stack - no torch needed... not a good idea to use a torch, this is hardened steel... slight over-heating and it weakens, unless you (re)harden - you did not have to open up your brakes - and no, you do not hit the crap 'outta' anything... except an old part you know will not go back on -- instead punch a small guide hole in the rivet head and drill thru first -- then use small Dremel tool cutting disk, cut a star (2 or 3 cuts) across the heads of the rivet -- then punch the 4/6 spans of the cut head towards the center(some may break, no problem) -- and punch all of that thru with a good short flat-head punch to blow these rivets out easily - use drill milk on your bits(and yes, low speed) - control arm is untouched and clean
this ball joint design just sucks.it was design to fail to make $$$$$$$$.the stealership sales man tells you there maintenance free what bunch b.s there is no such thing .
Your video is a little over 10 years old so I hope this comment finds you well. I thoroughly enjoyed your video, probably more than I'll enjoy doing what I just watched. I've seen several tutorials on this job and your way looks the best by far. Thanks for taking the time to post this, it's selfless acts of kindness like this that really helps people out. Best regards
Thanks so much for uploading this video. I read and searched before getting started, and this video really made all the difference. Using the pointed chisel displaced a lot of the rivet making drilling go much faster, and helped to get them out. But I'd of been lost without this video. Thanks man.
Appreciate that.
This is an excellent video. You're obviously southern; my mother is from late 1920's Alabama. Thanks for the thorough and direct information from a sharp mechanic. You explained everything perfectly; I was with you every step of the way.
Great video, your way is by far the best. I struggled with mine until I found your video and had them out in no time. I know how much of a pain it must have been to stop and film everything, but you are a lifesaver.
This worked perfectly!!!! I tried with a torch and hitting it with a punch for 2 hours, about to give up and replace the whole lower control arm. When I came across this video, you are a life saver. If you are ever in the Illinois area hit me up, I’ll buy you all the beer you can handle. Thanks again.
I have a 95 K1500 and the lower ball joints are exactly like this. This is the best video I have seen as to, how to, go about getting those rivets out. I had the rivet heads off but wasn't making any headway trying to pound them out. Drilling more and then smacking the piss out of them (like you showed) is the answer. Using a hard bolt as a punch is also a brilliant solution! Great video...Thank You!
Thanks for the video
*Don't forget that for those original joints without grease fittings, you can buy a cheap grease seek needle accessory for your grease gun. This allows you to pierce the rubber boot and inject grease, so they don't wear out in the first place. You only have to add grease once a year*
I'm not a macanic but I have done a lot of my own work. Never replace a ball joints. With that said you explain the steps very well. I was able to complete my projects in 2 hrs that upper and lower on both sides. I didn't disconnect brake line I keep it attach to cliaber and lay it to the side. Thanks so much for taking time to show us how to do it. Locally in Nicholasville, Ky price $650 plus parts. I'm not broke but badly bent, so saving the labor cost was a big help
You have a knack (gift) for doing video. Excellent info, easy to listen to and follow. Do more videos and thank you for this one.
Excellent video - Thanks for posting. I was stuck at grinding off the top of the rivit and then followed your instructions for drilling and got them out.
Best video yet on these riveted ball joints! My parts arrive tomorrow. Thanks!
Guys, don't give up on it. The first time a replace the ball joint on my pickup took me 3 hours using the drill, torch and pneumatic tools This Rams are like rocks!
Fantastic video. I did my ball joints this weekend, it took probably 12 to 15 hours to do, with some help, but I had to grind rivets off, and we were outside in the cold rain and sleet. I took the rotor and calipers off and tied them up, which worked fine and my steering knuckle refused to come off the bottom ball joint, so I ground between the knuckle and ball itself off and then hit the threaded end of the ball joint out of the knuckle. Thank you so much for this video it helped alot! Worth it
Was working on my 2004 Chevy Silverado and the bottom ball joint is the same as your Dodge. Thanks so much for this video! I was so mad that the rivets were not punching out.
THE OTHER DAY, I SAW SOMETHING ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD THAT INTERESTED ME & apon stopping, I found several things, including a big washer, & a bolt that I picked up to use for punching out rivets & then I see you using the same technic!!! cool
So. So many thank yous are given from me to you for this video. You don’t know how much you helped me get those damn factory assembly out! The use of prying on the upper control are as leverage for the drill. OMG! That’s the shit! Not to mention the clear explanation of the step drilling the rivets! Thank you a million times over for taking the time for this personal information experience on this subject.
BTW. Love the floor jack on gravel! Same here half the time!
Thanks for the video. Helped a lot. I would suggest having a few hardened steel bolts on hand to drive out the rivets
good explanation sir, some co-worker helped me five years ago on my 1999 Dodge Dagota and he charged me $300.
Great vid ..I have been pounding on mine for 4 days now ..never thought to drill the rivets ...tryed it ...and it only took 2 wacks each nd the came rite out ...your a lifesaver
NO DOUBT. i went at it for an hour with a pneumatic chisel before i watched this video, and you are right on.
I did mine at my automotive school, we heated up the tops nice and cherry red then scraped them off with an air chisel, then heated up the ball join sections with the rest of the rivets in them one by one and got them out with an air hammer. This vid helped me do the other side at home though so thanks.
This is the best DIY video. I appreciate the details Nugget. Hope your mechanical skills take you far bud. I knocked this task out with ease thanks to your video.
Thanks !
Great video.Getting ready to change the upper and lower ball joints on my 2000 dodge ram .This video will help me out a lot
I would like to thank you for the video. saved me alot of time and money. I just did mine today. Your method worked excellent. thanx again.
Great video, I'll be doing this job this weekend and your video made it very clear what to do. Thanks buddy
life saver GREAT VIDEO!!!! works like a dream
Those bottom ones were hell, but I did what you did and it worked out!
My hero I been working on this for 2 weeks🤔
Thanks for tellin' it like it is, "when I say hammer, I mean, you're gonna hammer the PISS out of them..."
My favorite tool is a BFH. Big f****** hammer
dam they came out clean, nice work
Thanks brother.
wow u saved me and everyone a lot of money and time very happy I saw video
are you a mechanic by trade? if not, you are very skilled and seem better than many pros. your videos are short and to the point. seems like you are very efficient as well. you have a good narrating voice and your instructions are thorough. i hope you'll post more vehicle repair videos, perhaps a video telling people a little about yourself. take care.
Glad to hear it, not that you pounded for four days but that the video was helpful !
Have a good one.
Great video. Very clear to understand instructions. Very back yard mechanic friendly video.Can tell you know you stuff. Thanks
TY
"What I do is I just take a bolt to stick down in there, then I strike it with my hammer, and I'm gon knock the piss out of it!" Lmao... right on.
I used the torch to cut the upper rivets out. When looking at the lower there is a rubber bushing close to the left rivet. If I was to use my cutting torch on these rivets I would melt the rubber bushing. How did you manage to do yours without ruining the rubber bushing?
Great Video!!!!
Great Great video...thank you so much...I feel more confident starting work on mine.
Any questions let me know.
I'll be doing this soon, thanks a bunch! I really wonder what kind of metal the rivets are that they are so hard to drill?!
been using a air hammer on my buddy;s dodge dakota and got the top ball joint out no prob,, but your right those bottum are a biotch !! I got one with the air hammer other three drilling,, video got some new ideas,, thanks man !!
You saved us a bunch of time so Thank You. Can you tell me how tight the ball joint castle nuts should be? I may have gone over board.
+Daniel T Not terribly tight, I would say around 20-25 pounds of pressure would be more than enough. Cotter pins will stop it from getting loose.
Great video! Do you recall the torque values for the replacement bolts?
It’s exactly the way I just did it. Did you use any sort of press to press the upper or lower in since the new ones are bolted instead of riveted?
Nope, no press needed.
Excellent video. Easy to understand what's going on. What else you got? :)
You're a life saver my man, rock on!
Tips to others
1. Don't rush drilling, my dad broke a pilot bit in a rivet, and it got stuck, destroying almost any other bit that hit it, and it made that rivet take like 4 to 6 hours.
2. This is more of just emphasizing, but don't be a little girl about this stuff, hit the top ball joint HARD to get it out, and when you are taking the knuckle off, hit it HARD.
Well I almost did the same thing except I ground my heads off with a grinder and then drilled them out and punched them out and it worked great. Now on to the next side next week. You really don't need a cutting torch even though I do have one I didn't like the idea of heating the metal up too high. It tends to weaken it. But great video.
HEY BUD, IM INTERESTED IN KNOWING WHAT DRILL BITS DO YOU USE & WHERE DID YOU GET THEM FROM? ALSO, DID YOU USE OIL OR NOT? OR PENATRATING SPRAY TO COOL THE DRILL BIT? (SEEMED TO ME THAT WHEN I USED P.B. BLASTER,IT SLOWED THE CUTTING PROCESS) I FOUND THAT ONLY COBALT ENFUSED DRILL BITS WILL CUT THREW METAL!!! ALSO, POSSIBLY GOOD MASONRY BITS W/CARBON TIPPED BUT, ONLY IF THEY ARE SHARPENED 1ST.(SO I WAS TOLD BY A MACHINE SHOP OWNER). I ENJOY AUTOMOTIVE WORK,(ANYTHING WITH A MOTOR REALLY), METAL FAB, & TILE & MASONRY. I AM CURRENTLY DRILLING OUT MY BALLJOINTS & INSTALLING NEW INNER & OUTER TIE RODS, & wheel bearing & hub ON MY ZETEC FUCUS! GOOD VIDEO MAN!
Straight to the point. Thanks!
When I say beat them out, I mean BEAT THEM OUT! nice vid!
My comment got cut off. Sorry. I have 46re it was. Not shifting , hanging up, saw your video, ordered part numbers you showed and plan on doing tomorrow, one thing I'm lost on, band adjustment, Ido you do it to spec 72lbs or did you do free hand? I have a cheap harbour freight torque wrench. Not sure if it will do, as well do I need to torque the pan? Or just do in a criss cross even pressure t? Thanks for the confidence..199 dakota
Thanks for the video, helped me tremendously.
+Cherri Ybanez Nice, thanks for letting me know!
Agreed, great vid. I was wrestling with this too as a DIY'er and what people just need to remember is that its gonna take time, just keep at it!
I've always just took an angle grinder to the rivets with a grinding wheel and it takes about 15 minutes per joint. Cut off the heads and then a punch and a hammer whack and it is out.
Anyone know what size socket for the axle nut? I’ve searched the entire internet and alls I can find is the size for the 2500 and the 4wd which is 43mm and that’s way to big for my 2 wheel drive
2012nugget awesome job! saved my ass a lot of time, I created a youtube account just to thank you, so.... Thank You...Still sucky job, but I did it pretty fast, drilled them out then used an air hammer, cut the top one off with a cutoff wheel on my grinder. Bad design? or good design? my truck is 12 years old, so hats off to dodge!
I wish you would have shown putting the spindle back onbecause I had about 2in of Gap in between the upper ball joint and control arm cuz I put the ball joint on the spindle first then I had to really cranked down on the control arm to start my bolt & nut I just wasn't sure if that was normal I gotthe new ball joints back in and the spindle on but I took everything off separately so now I have to put the brake calipers and everything back togetherbut I didn't want to do that until I got some advice cuz I don't want to take it all back apart or have my wheel fall off going down the road lol 😂
So do you need a ball joint press at all for replacing the lower ball joints?
If by press you mean a BFH, big f#@^%$# hammer, yes, lol.
Well I'm going to tackle this next weekend, I may or may not do upper ball joints too. This weekend I replaced the heater core and installed a new dash top (DRD8-1).
Samuel Thomas Go by harbor freight or someplace and pick yourself up a cheap hand grinder, grind the heads off and you'll get em ok.
2012nugget I have an air rotary tool for grinding and an air hammer/chisel... How much will that help me?
Thanks! Great video 👍
Your number one!
Why did you undo the brake line?
This is a great video
thanks for showin this !
So glad it was usefull to you.
I agree with Joel. I'd pay to go to your class
Just did one Today upper and lower ball joints,had no drill or drill bits,had to cut ball joint off with torch,and then melt away the metal that the rivers were stuck in,what a fucking disaster, charged the guy 100 bucks for both sides.Think I had a mini stroke hammering the piss out off the rivets without drilling them.After the mini stroke and a shit attack.The rivet didn't budge nothing not even a sliver.I did it the super hard way,next time I ain't touching them without your step by step procedures.
Could you also make a mandatory 3 day weekend ? Just saying.......
My truck has 325000 miles on it Cummins all original front end it jus laughs at a sledgehammer
Thanks for the info.
Are any special drill bits needed?
yes......drill bits.......
You also narrate Dodge truck commercials, right? I recognize your voice.
Yeah those rivets are a horse to remove. I did pretty good with an air hammer with a chisel attachment and chiseled out the heads. Took me about two hours for both sides. Too bad I didn't have a torch.
Found it easier to use a grinder with a grinding wheel, not a cutting wheel, and go right thru the middle of the rivet head. Couple good hits with a hammer and chisel popped the rest of the rivet head off.
awesome video, thanks
Great video...informative!!
Damn I took everything off separate I had a feeling you could take it off like thatbut it was my first time doing the ball joints so I just took everything apart separately 😂
Thank you GooD Job
Thank you
What about 92 Chevy 1500 I got my drill bit off 8th or more
Oh and if ya get tired of beating the piss out of knuckles to remove spindles... invest in a set of pickle forks, makes it alot easier
Awesome!!!
good fking job
To a spec? I assume do the evenly and cross CEOs to not bind. But specific. Torque needed? I have a harbour freight torque wrench. That is it and I doubt it is reliable, even tho it's new.... I'm doing it to or row after ups drops off the pressure celenoid and govener... I have the. Hold at 3 grand. Problem. Ur video. Made me order parts not go to the trans guyfor 600$.
13 minutos explicando como sacar 4 remaches cuando con un esmeril lo hubieras hecho en tres minutos... escojiste la forma mas dificil y costosa..
doing mine today ty
Done after 6 drill bits I got it really wasn't that bad better then buying the whole control arm
By far the wierdest ball joints ive ever done. The whole a frame is 200 to 350 bucks at napa. I wonder if ford sold this idea to dodge lol
See how I made my Ball Joint Trunnion Puller for Dodge Ram 2500. ruclips.net/video/6RzDZ4r8TRM/видео.html
a bit shade-tree...
- none are hardly the same... seems every year/model is some new shite to deal with
- place no less than 2 jacks under, including a stack of well crossed and squared off wood 4x4 2x6 1x4 mixture or bigger under the frame so if jacks fail vehicle is already resting on the wood stack
- no torch needed... not a good idea to use a torch, this is hardened steel... slight over-heating and it weakens, unless you (re)harden
- you did not have to open up your brakes
- and no, you do not hit the crap 'outta' anything... except an old part you know will not go back on
-- instead punch a small guide hole in the rivet head and drill thru first
-- then use small Dremel tool cutting disk, cut a star (2 or 3 cuts) across the heads of the rivet
-- then punch the 4/6 spans of the cut head towards the center(some may break, no problem)
-- and punch all of that thru with a good short flat-head punch to blow these rivets out easily
- use drill milk on your bits(and yes, low speed)
- control arm is untouched and clean
DormantIdeas NIQ with all that mechanical knowledge why are you watching repair videos? Maybe you should be making videos instead?😜
When you come to jersey. Beer on me
I hate rivets! When I take over the world; I will ban the use of them!
especially industrial type rivets on ball joints
this ball joint design just sucks.it was design to fail to make $$$$$$$$.the stealership sales man tells you there maintenance free what bunch b.s there is no such thing .
Thanks! Great video 👍
See how I made my Ball Joint Trunnion Puller for Dodge Ram 2500. ruclips.net/video/6RzDZ4r8TRM/видео.html