I've just replaced my makita cordless motor. Had the idea of replacing the brushes to salvage the faulty one and found your video... Thanks for sharing!
Hi sir. I am a first year electrical engineering student in india. This video taught me more about brushed motor repair than my "theoretical" class even though you only dealt with a missing brush this time. Thanks a lot♥️🙏
Great as always! Your approach is so easy to follow. I’m just new to electronics always had an interest but no time. Retired now and a lot of time. So thanks and I’m going to get into you Electronics at Your Level 1-8 soon. In the meantime I’m trying to find a replacement motor for my Black & Decker Dustbuster. I think the bearings are shot and it overheats and shuts down in a min or so. I’m still testing different items but I think that’s the problem because I ran another motor from another unit and no prob continuous runtime Thanks again!!!
Thank you for this video. Almost anything can be repaired if you can get the spares, and have the knouse/gumption/will. Very inspiring..something else that does not now need to be thrown away. JB from Scotland"
My good fellow. The chore it is to dis assemble and reassemble these types of motors is a real test of skill. The entire motor is a press fit and getting everything to re align Properly when reassembling is next to impossible. What I learned after going thru the process is to never pry of push pull it in any way is the first step. Using a Dremel hand grinder on those tables until the end bell comes off without resistance is the key. Marking the position Of everything is next. Keeping the armature free of binding is ultimate . Rewinding the armature is also to be considered in that it is easy to enhance motor performance if you desire. Rolling little set screw hole into the can and endbell fasting leaves you with a motor that now is long life's. Mossy of this is failure designed so that replacement purchase is predictable.
The real problem for me is bending back the notches that hold the endcap. Just cleaned two Johnsons motors that generated smoke, reason being dirt accumulating in and shortening the commutator gaps.
So many similar comments. If that is your opinion you most likely will not change it. Sometimes a motor or item is obsolete or hard to find at best. For the ones that see a similar repair as priceless value in learning or the simple fact that the repair not worth it saved a friend from buying another $150 item? It all depends on how you look at it. I have been repairing and learning by fixing things since I was very young and it has been a very good career over the last 25+ years as well. The learning and experience has been invaluable and hopefully even helps someone else. I do not do this as a living so Nothing to justify.
This looks like Makita line trimmer DUR181 motor. Replacement motor costs $8 but the terminals are on the wrong side. I'll try your method to dismantle it
I pulled apart a DC chainsaw motor because it keeps smoking but still running. I thought I'd blown a brush off but unfortunately not so simple, it's scorched with carbon between the brush windings and main body windings and part of the plates are scorched on one side. I'm not really sure what to do with it. I can't really afford to buy a new saw and can't find a motor for it. It's a custom plastic housing etc. It still runs but I get an electricalburning smell when it does. Would cleaning it help or would I have to replace it? None of the windings look burnt through or disconnected. Not even melted just scorched with carbon.
Well it's possible cleaning the commutator will help. If you don't think the windings are burned I would try it. You can even get some small strips of emory cloth and clean up the copper bars of the commutator. After cleaning make sure you have good spring pressure on the brushes from the brush holder. A badly worn brush or weak spring in the brush holder is sometimes what causes the brushes to arc and blacken the commutator. It may at least last a bit longer!
Thanks for your kind comment! I kept the carbon brush from another motor that had a bad gear on it from another tool. I sort of never throw away parts when I take something apart and salvage what I can.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you very much. I do the same. I never throw away things that can be of use to me in the future. I look like an accumulator of things. my wife is not very happy about it.
I have a question. So my ABS pump motor doesn't work on my car. I did some research and it seems that the induction motors just simply wears out over time. Many people replace the entire ABS system which cost around $400-$1000. I was wondering if the electric motor can be rebuild. It seems to have the same issue of the brushings and the plates wearing out. Although I don't know how one would fix the plate(commutator bar) wear issue.
Well an induction motor is usually AC. Even though many BLDC motors are used in DC systems of today it is still either the older school Brushed DC like in this video or the Brushless. It seems as if you already know it does have brushes? So it's a brushed DC motor in that case. The replacing of brush assemblies is as far as I have gone with these smaller DC motors. As far as resurfacing the commutator, I don't think anyone does that on these small motors. I have worked with large 100HP plus in industry and motor shops do specialize in commutator rebuild on those. I have never worked on a ABS pump to say for certain. Best of luck to ya! Merry Christmas!
I believe my motor got water damage over time and i cleaned inside with light sanding cleaning it out but still nothing. Not sign of life what should i try next
You can try spraying it with an electric motor cleaner or contact cleaner, but make sure it's plastic safe before spraying and plastic parts. After that make sure the commutator and brushes are clean. A very light sanding with very fine sand paper will do it. Other than that make sure the bearing (bushings) are clean and not hard to turn or dry. They may need a little spray lube. Best of luck to ya!
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I stay extremely backed up as it is. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope some of the videos on some brushless repairs I have like the DeWalt drill or the Ridgid drill may be helpful. Hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I don't have an actual repair video on a brushless impact at this time. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Not to be the party crasher here but yes if your lucky and the gear isn't straight stuck on the shaft this might work. I've gotten lucky and did this same thing and right on done deal but then there is the failed attempts where to much prying on gear starts pulling the whole shaft out of armature inside motor even tho you used heat so you just go use bench grinder to do the job and it does no problem but when you go to utilize the motor it starts up but it's suddenly loud rattling brushes sparking big time followed by a loud screaming noise no power smoking then burns up on ya. The heat strips the bushings of lubrication and leaves the precision Smooth tempered finish of shaft and bushing surface rough and scored plus the shaft pulled out of armature misalignment of brushes so they are now hitting the commutator where the motor windings are connected causing a bad short every revolution and destroying the brushes plus severing winding that break loose and get sucked into armature and magnets sometimes causing magnets to lose there connection to inner motor housing and stick to spinning armature while loose windings wrap around everything effectively causing catostrofic failure to all motor components and leaving you with complete junk motor. If you don't have to reuse the gear then just grind it off with bench grinder or dermal carefully and then use compressed air to clear shaving and lubricate bushings. Or jack a small gear puller and a beer fro.m neighbor when his gaurd is down.
No party crashed whatsoever. 2 things here. First, I did not work on the front it was the back commutator end with the brushes. No need to remove the gear most of the time. Secondly, it was a junk motor to begin with, non-operational, broke, brush holder broken so no big deal that you have a junk motor if you give it an effort. I have absolutely seen the gears pressed on so hard that you can't get them off easily, they can't slip on the shaft when doing there job after all. So I know what you mean it can be rough even with heat. Thanks for sharing your experience!
When I saw the video title I knew the answer was yes! You're the man.
I've just replaced my makita cordless motor. Had the idea of replacing the brushes to salvage the faulty one and found your video...
Thanks for sharing!
Spot on man. Happy to know I’m not the only one keeping old parts. 😃👍
Yes sir, I am running out of room, I am putting totes of parts in the attic, lol...
Hi sir. I am a first year electrical engineering student in india. This video taught me more about brushed motor repair than my "theoretical" class even though you only dealt with a missing brush this time. Thanks a lot♥️🙏
Thank you for your time
Great as always! Your approach is so easy to follow. I’m just new to electronics always had an interest but no time. Retired now and a lot of time. So thanks and I’m going to get into you Electronics at Your Level 1-8 soon. In the meantime I’m trying to find a replacement motor for my Black & Decker Dustbuster. I think the bearings are shot and it overheats and shuts down in a min or so. I’m still testing different items but I think that’s the problem because I ran another motor from another unit and no prob continuous runtime
Thanks again!!!
Best use for a treadmill motor flywheel ever! Thanks for showing how you did this. Gives me confidence to do this on a dewalt drill.
Thank you for this video. Almost anything can be repaired if you can get the spares, and have the knouse/gumption/will. Very inspiring..something else that does not now need to be thrown away. JB from Scotland"
And God Bless you too!!! You certainly have it!!!
Great job!
It's working, you brought it back to usefulness. That 's what counts. Thanks for the look.
My good fellow.
The chore it is to dis assemble and reassemble these types of motors is a real test of skill.
The entire motor is a press fit and getting everything to re align
Properly when reassembling is next to impossible.
What I learned after going thru the process is to never pry of push pull it in any way is the first step.
Using a Dremel hand grinder on those tables until the end bell comes off without resistance is the key.
Marking the position
Of everything is next.
Keeping the armature free of binding is ultimate .
Rewinding the armature is also to be considered in that it is easy to enhance motor performance if you desire.
Rolling little set screw hole into the can and endbell fasting leaves you with a motor that now is long life's.
Mossy of this is failure designed so that replacement purchase is predictable.
@@danielhutchinson7115 no kidding?
The real problem for me is bending back the notches that hold the endcap. Just cleaned two Johnsons motors that generated smoke, reason being dirt accumulating in and shortening the commutator gaps.
Great repair, it's difficult to justify fixing cheap motors
So many similar comments. If that is your opinion you most likely will not change it. Sometimes a motor or item is obsolete or hard to find at best. For the ones that see a similar repair as priceless value in learning or the simple fact that the repair not worth it saved a friend from buying another $150 item? It all depends on how you look at it. I have been repairing and learning by fixing things since I was very young and it has been a very good career over the last 25+ years as well. The learning and experience has been invaluable and hopefully even helps someone else. I do not do this as a living so Nothing to justify.
Good job !
So it needs a hammer and a chisel to pry open those tiny tabs :) Nice! exactly what i need to do on my old makita drill!
for me , i use electrical side cutter plier to pry them open, much easier
It does work for sure. I done it that way years ago, but it will typically leave sharper edges than the chisel.
great save thanks for info
This looks like Makita line trimmer DUR181 motor. Replacement motor costs $8 but the terminals are on the wrong side. I'll try your method to dismantle it
Thanks!
I pulled apart a DC chainsaw motor because it keeps smoking but still running. I thought I'd blown a brush off but unfortunately not so simple, it's scorched with carbon between the brush windings and main body windings and part of the plates are scorched on one side. I'm not really sure what to do with it. I can't really afford to buy a new saw and can't find a motor for it. It's a custom plastic housing etc.
It still runs but I get an electricalburning smell when it does. Would cleaning it help or would I have to replace it? None of the windings look burnt through or disconnected. Not even melted just scorched with carbon.
Well it's possible cleaning the commutator will help. If you don't think the windings are burned I would try it. You can even get some small strips of emory cloth and clean up the copper bars of the commutator. After cleaning make sure you have good spring pressure on the brushes from the brush holder. A badly worn brush or weak spring in the brush holder is sometimes what causes the brushes to arc and blacken the commutator. It may at least last a bit longer!
amazing job! where did you bought the brush?
Thanks for your kind comment! I kept the carbon brush from another motor that had a bad gear on it from another tool. I sort of never throw away parts when I take something apart and salvage what I can.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you very much. I do the same. I never throw away things that can be of use to me in the future. I look like an accumulator of things. my wife is not very happy about it.
I believe this was a good opportunity for bearing replacement. They are probably cheap stuff also and probably readily available for cheap from China.
Most of these have oilite bushings. They either have play and wear or they don't.
Thanks for your comment!
شكرا لكم
I have a question. So my ABS pump motor doesn't work on my car. I did some research and it seems that the induction motors just simply wears out over time. Many people replace the entire ABS system which cost around $400-$1000. I was wondering if the electric motor can be rebuild. It seems to have the same issue of the brushings and the plates wearing out. Although I don't know how one would fix the plate(commutator bar) wear issue.
Well an induction motor is usually AC. Even though many BLDC motors are used in DC systems of today it is still either the older school Brushed DC like in this video or the Brushless. It seems as if you already know it does have brushes? So it's a brushed DC motor in that case. The replacing of brush assemblies is as far as I have gone with these smaller DC motors. As far as resurfacing the commutator, I don't think anyone does that on these small motors. I have worked with large 100HP plus in industry and motor shops do specialize in commutator rebuild on those. I have never worked on a ABS pump to say for certain. Best of luck to ya! Merry Christmas!
what does the flux do? cause mine wont flow unless i use solder paste.
The flux helps very much with the flow of solder.
Nice!
I believe my motor got water damage over time and i cleaned inside with light sanding cleaning it out but still nothing. Not sign of life what should i try next
You can try spraying it with an electric motor cleaner or contact cleaner, but make sure it's plastic safe before spraying and plastic parts. After that make sure the commutator and brushes are clean. A very light sanding with very fine sand paper will do it. Other than that make sure the bearing (bushings) are clean and not hard to turn or dry. They may need a little spray lube. Best of luck to ya!
CAN YOU HELP ME FIX MY CORDLESS BRUSHLESS IMPACT DRILL FOR A CAR
IT STOP WORKING
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I stay extremely backed up as it is. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope some of the videos on some brushless repairs I have like the DeWalt drill or the Ridgid drill may be helpful. Hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I don't have an actual repair video on a brushless impact at this time. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Not to be the party crasher here but yes if your lucky and the gear isn't straight stuck on the shaft this might work. I've gotten lucky and did this same thing and right on done deal but then there is the failed attempts where to much prying on gear starts pulling the whole shaft out of armature inside motor even tho you used heat so you just go use bench grinder to do the job and it does no problem but when you go to utilize the motor it starts up but it's suddenly loud rattling brushes sparking big time followed by a loud screaming noise no power smoking then burns up on ya. The heat strips the bushings of lubrication and leaves the precision Smooth tempered finish of shaft and bushing surface rough and scored plus the shaft pulled out of armature misalignment of brushes so they are now hitting the commutator where the motor windings are connected causing a bad short every revolution and destroying the brushes plus severing winding that break loose and get sucked into armature and magnets sometimes causing magnets to lose there connection to inner motor housing and stick to spinning armature while loose windings wrap around everything effectively causing catostrofic failure to all motor components and leaving you with complete junk motor. If you don't have to reuse the gear then just grind it off with bench grinder or dermal carefully and then use compressed air to clear shaving and lubricate bushings. Or jack a small gear puller and a beer fro.m neighbor when his gaurd is down.
No party crashed whatsoever. 2 things here. First, I did not work on the front it was the back commutator end with the brushes. No need to remove the gear most of the time. Secondly, it was a junk motor to begin with, non-operational, broke, brush holder broken so no big deal that you have a junk motor if you give it an effort. I have absolutely seen the gears pressed on so hard that you can't get them off easily, they can't slip on the shaft when doing there job after all. So I know what you mean it can be rough even with heat. Thanks for sharing your experience!