Hiya did this about 10yrs ago on my 300tdi Probably the best thing i ever did regarding starting. I went with RR facet pumps. Turn the key - listen for the tick tick of the pump. The engine leaps into life on a half turn of the motor. Saves on the starter motor, less strain on your battery and even reduces your need for the glow plugs.... Regarding the higher flow rates i turned it to an advantage. For winter running i put on the return run to the tank a coil of metal fuel pipe wound around the exaust manafold pipe between the exhaust manifold and the first exhaust joint.. A coil of eight open spaced turns. Total about 15cms tall. The coil diameter is about 1 cm greater than the manafold pipe so as not to directly (metal to metal) rub on the exhaust manifold. Allow a length if about 8 cms of pipe at both ends to avoid your pipe couplings coming too close to the warm manifold. A tip. Pre form your coil on a suitably sized larger pipe before hand and fit it from under the vehicle up wards by uncoupling the exaust systen at the first junction (bolts will be easier to part). Result the increase flow returns back to the tank as warmed diesel. In summer just bypass the coil (2min) job... PS i wish i had done this 40 yrs ago on my 2a - real pain to start. Another tip for winter running. Put a kenlowe on and either opt for the manual rheostat or put a kill switch in the cab ideal for wintery mornings.
That's how they always start when there's no fuel system air leaks, s'why I fitted an electric pump to mine many years ago, also removing the mech fuel pump eliminated an oil leak.
Great result. Then again, mine would start from cold like that with the normal pumps, even in -15oC. It’s all down to having good impulse on the starter and no air leaks in the fuel system.
Thanks v much Mike - fantastic as ever! Been enjoying and learning from your videos for a while now, - usually silently. Having had latest of several lift pumps fail, I really like your idea of an electric pump. My 110 is a 1989, with no wiring that I can find for an e-pump, but there is an unused live feed in the back end which I think is the (unused) pick-off point for an auxiliary trailer, so I have used that as power feed for a pump via a relay, and taken a piggyback off the fuel stop solenoid and down to the back end to switch the relay. (None of the existing wires at the back end were both switched and still live when the starter motor is cranked. ) I’ve got a facet-style in-line pump, but really like the neatness of an in-tank pump with strainer. I’m a bit confused by all the different pumps though. Any chance you could spoon feed me with a part no, please? Is the in-tank pump just one for a 110 petrol from that period? TVM, James. Ps. Was in your part of the world The other week; at Guisborough rugby club to start a run up to roseberry topping and down the moors. Some fantastic scenery up there!
Mike. The 'go-fast' boys used to plastic shrink sleeve their Bosch Motorsport fuel pumps to make them run quieter mista ? The noise reminds me of Jimbo's 1985 "Red Baron" Rangie that had an upgraded carby pump mounted to the chassis ! V.
I would like to fit an electric fuel pump to my 2.5na. How many GPH / Psi would you recomend? Can I overpressure with maybe 7psi and cause problems/damage/leaks?
This is the one I used www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MYMN9UP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 But maybe next time will get this one www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07HRW1198/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
The electric fuel pump in my MGB was next to the battery box. The points type was fairly audible when vehicle not moving and was reassuring to hear it.
Hi Mike. Thanks for the great video. I'm currently doing the same but removing the mechanical pump at the same time, as it's leaking. I have a 7-10psi Facet pump, will the injection pump handle the higher pressure? I've heard of other guys using higher pressure pumps but I would like to know what you think.
I went with facets too. Simple and if they became clogged off road you could strip therm down in the field. Location on mine was under the drivers seat ckose to the tank - easy to get at.
Hi Mike, Enjoyed that. Does this mean you can now remove the lift pump? these can be quite noisy themselves. Thinking about new things electrical to fit, What about a REV counter for a 300tdi. I know these were fitted as extras to TD5 but how is it done on the good old 300tdi...lol GN
You could remove the lift pump if you want I see a lot of people fit the rev counter but the originals are a fortune! There usually is a connector on the back of the alternator and you need to find a corresponding rev counter www.croytec.co.uk/product/rev-counter/
I sourced a rev counter (fuel temp gauge) sized over E**y - just make sure you source a electronic one NOT mechanical. I put a boost gauge in as well. Very handy as you can start to drive on the rev counter as opposed to the speedo. The boost gauge is so la la. I put a oil pressure & oil temp on to - very handy.
Solving another problem that's not .... er, actually a problem, I've been running 300tdis for years and never contemplated replacing the mech. fuel pump with an electric one - what a faff! - Have you got too much time on your hands? - The mechanical fuel pumps do fail, but I only notice when it comes to replacing the fuel filter, so I guess the injection pump 'sucks' fuel from the tank. So you want to fit a non standard, harder to source when it fails, less reliable, with extra joints, jerry rigged wiring and fuses electric pump? I've replaced far more of those small electric pumps that are usually fitted to small plant engines over the years than 300tdi mech. pumps.
Hiya did this about 10yrs ago on my 300tdi
Probably the best thing i ever did regarding starting. I went with RR facet pumps.
Turn the key - listen for the tick tick of the pump. The engine leaps into life on a half turn of the motor. Saves on the starter motor, less strain on your battery and even reduces your need for the glow plugs....
Regarding the higher flow rates i turned it to an advantage. For winter running i put on the return run to the tank a coil of metal fuel pipe wound around the exaust manafold pipe between the exhaust manifold and the first exhaust joint.. A coil of eight open spaced turns. Total about 15cms tall. The coil diameter is about 1 cm greater than the manafold pipe so as not to directly (metal to metal) rub on the exhaust manifold. Allow a length if about 8 cms of pipe at both ends to avoid your pipe couplings coming too close to the warm manifold.
A tip. Pre form your coil on a suitably sized larger pipe before hand and fit it from under the vehicle up wards by uncoupling the exaust systen at the first junction (bolts will be easier to part).
Result the increase flow returns back to the tank as warmed diesel.
In summer just bypass the coil (2min) job...
PS i wish i had done this 40 yrs ago on my 2a - real pain to start.
Another tip for winter running. Put a kenlowe on and either opt for the manual rheostat or put a kill switch in the cab ideal for wintery mornings.
Fitted a leccy pump to my Prima engine in my series 3 years ago and all is well. Great wee things.
Fitting one to my series 3 200tdi conversion for sure
Everyone needs a good pump.
Good video behind it to keep one of those pumps in the motor just in case😁👍
Thanks 👍
Liking this a lot. Thanks Mike. 😊👍🏻
Glad to hear it!
That's how they always start when there's no fuel system air leaks, s'why I fitted an electric pump to mine many years ago, also removing the mech fuel pump eliminated an oil leak.
There’s always another job to do on a Defender 😂
Or 17 .......🤣
That's why we love our LandRovers, it's the grown man's "Meccano set".
Great result. Then again, mine would start from cold like that with the normal pumps, even in -15oC. It’s all down to having good impulse on the starter and no air leaks in the fuel system.
For air heater there is such a bracket. Top shit work King Mike. Cheers 🥃
Good timing ! On this video, I think my 90 needs a new pump 👍 thanks again Mike
Glad to help
Another top job mike
Cheers Graham! How is your freedom working out?!
@@BritannicaRestorations what freedom? My sister and niece have it now so I’ve buggered off up to Hexham to get out the way
Thanks v much Mike - fantastic as ever! Been enjoying and learning from your videos for a while now, - usually silently. Having had latest of several lift pumps fail, I really like your idea of an electric pump. My 110 is a 1989, with no wiring that I can find for an e-pump, but there is an unused live feed in the back end which I think is the (unused) pick-off point for an auxiliary trailer, so I have used that as power feed for a pump via a relay, and taken a piggyback off the fuel stop solenoid and down to the back end to switch the relay. (None of the existing wires at the back end were both switched and still live when the starter motor is cranked. ) I’ve got a facet-style in-line pump, but really like the neatness of an in-tank pump with strainer. I’m a bit confused by all the different pumps though. Any chance you could spoon feed me with a part no, please? Is the in-tank pump just one for a 110 petrol from that period? TVM, James.
Ps. Was in your part of the world The other week; at Guisborough rugby club to start a run up to roseberry topping and down the moors. Some fantastic scenery up there!
That was meant to say it would be handy😁👍
The rubber blocks with two pins are exhaust mounts. I use them for higher current terminal blocks.
Mike. The 'go-fast' boys used to plastic shrink sleeve their Bosch Motorsport fuel pumps to make them run quieter mista ? The noise reminds me of Jimbo's 1985 "Red Baron" Rangie that had an upgraded carby pump mounted to the chassis ! V.
Exhaust rubber mounting 👍
Bobbin!
I would like to fit an electric fuel pump to my 2.5na. How many GPH / Psi would you recomend? Can I overpressure with maybe 7psi and cause problems/damage/leaks?
4 psi will do
Nice fix!
Did you leave the mechanical lift pump in place? Or remove it?
Kept it in place
Do you have a link for the punp?
Good job Mike! I have the same issue..
This is the one I used
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MYMN9UP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
But maybe next time will get this one
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07HRW1198/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
The electric fuel pump in my MGB was next to the battery box. The points type was fairly audible when vehicle not moving and was reassuring to hear it.
Hi Mike.
Thanks for the great video.
I'm currently doing the same but removing the mechanical pump at the same time, as it's leaking.
I have a 7-10psi Facet pump, will the injection pump handle the higher pressure?
I've heard of other guys using higher pressure pumps but I would like to know what you think.
I think the original mechanical pump was 4Psi - more about flow, than pressure
I went with facets too. Simple and if they became clogged off road you could strip therm down in the field. Location on mine was under the drivers seat ckose to the tank - easy to get at.
Loving the videos, what liquid do you use in your ultra sonic cleaner? Thinking of getting one
Don't know about mike , but i use plain water with some washing powder / laundry detergent & get good results
I use mainly water with detergent - but I have used hot diesel - but it gets a bit smelly!
is that pump constantly running or just for assist on starting?
Always runs as the diesel fuel system returns to the tank in a loop
Hi Mike, Enjoyed that. Does this mean you can now remove the lift pump? these can be quite noisy themselves. Thinking about new things electrical to fit, What about a REV counter for a 300tdi. I know these were fitted as extras to TD5 but how is it done on the good old 300tdi...lol GN
You could remove the lift pump if you want
I see a lot of people fit the rev counter but the originals are a fortune! There usually is a connector on the back of the alternator and you need to find a corresponding rev counter
www.croytec.co.uk/product/rev-counter/
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike good of you to send that link too...GN
I sourced a rev counter (fuel temp gauge) sized over E**y - just make sure you source a electronic one NOT mechanical. I put a boost gauge in as well.
Very handy as you can start to drive on the rev counter as opposed to the speedo. The boost gauge is so la la.
I put a oil pressure & oil temp on to - very handy.
Mine starts like that without the electric pump, thank god!
for now ..
Lol!
@@BritannicaRestorations 😳
Got a chronic case of
Des ja vous
Rubber with two pins.......BL mini engine mounts??
Sorry ment exhaust "bobbin" 🤣
Bobbin - that was the word I was looking for!
Noisy basdard. I use a Mr Gasket green diesel only pump. much quieter
You've got a 300TDi in a Deefer and you're worrying about a noisy fuel pump??????? 😂😂😂
Lol! I fitted a rubber buffer and it is ok so now it is silent - as if!
No more jobs ? this isnt April 1st - drive it across country and there will be plenty to do
Solving another problem that's not .... er, actually a problem, I've been running 300tdis for years and never contemplated replacing the mech. fuel pump with an electric one - what a faff! - Have you got too much time on your hands? - The mechanical fuel pumps do fail, but I only notice when it comes to replacing the fuel filter, so I guess the injection pump 'sucks' fuel from the tank. So you want to fit a non standard, harder to source when it fails, less reliable, with extra joints, jerry rigged wiring and fuses electric pump? I've replaced far more of those small electric pumps that are usually fitted to small plant engines over the years than 300tdi mech. pumps.