Brilliant - This video is a get out of jail card for me an my son who are restoring a 1988 defender - We timed it on the pin at first - But still it just emitted smoke - Even advancing it by slackening the three bolts and moving the pump in situ was not enough to get it right - just not enough left or right rotation on the actual pulley - So the actual main sprocket on the pump we had was way out - As you say right at the beginning if it has been messed with it beforehand and you time on the pins as you normally would you are never going to get it right. So your method is really the only way to correct it if you cannot get it right on the vehicle. Great video - thanks
My thoughts exactly. Back in the learning days some blokes wouldn't teach you much, it was like joining the freemasons before they told you more than to brew-up.
Awesome videos .. gives me the confidence of tackling these jobs , being disabled and money is always tight . saves me money on garage bills . I like the down to earth approach . keep up the good work . Stay safe , Bud , best wishes from ol' Blighty
I'm addicted to these videos.... Useless info for me and my TD5 but I can't stop watching 👍🏻 I love understanding how things work, so i'm sitting here with a cup of coffee watching a your vids and learning something new, cheers Mike.
Really good instructional video Mike, thanks for that. I've never seen the job done using all the "correct" tools, all the ones I use I've made, even the adaptor for the dial gauge into the back of the pump, but it works fine.
Problem with refurbishing pumps is setting them up - stripping, cleaning and replacing parts is easy - it is the fine adjustment which is the problem as you never know who has been tinkering with them in the past
@@BritannicaRestorations Exactly!. Thats proberbly why, with this new Tdi im only getting 460 kilometers per tank. Atrocious. My other one was getting 900-1100 per tank, depending on driving conditions.
That was very good Mike, it's easy to see how a novice could get themselves in a right state. You should get yourself a keen intelligent apprentice to pass those skills on.....could be part of your pension plan!!
I used to do the same for Bosch pumps fitted to newholland excavators. But you must be sure that when you set the injection pump piston stroke at 1.6 you are setting it up for output to the correct cylinder. The pump 360 rotation is divided into 4 quarters. If you spin the pump round at any time, without your timing flange it is possible to set it up to inject on the wrong cylinder.
Dead right Stephen, an ya Up ta y'er Boll*x in Shite on a building site, upside down through the engine cover trying to get her going for the morning, but t'is an awful lot easier than today, it's like taking the back off the Telly !
I had a similar experience. The pump on my RRC needed replacing and I bought a very new pump from a contact who’d bought a 300Tdi cast by the REME as a non-runner after efforts at fixing it. The reason it didn’t run was that new pump having the flange on at the wrong angle, way off, preventing any chance of setting the injection timing - the engine wouldn’t even splutter, let alone run rough, and I assume the same was true of the Army engine it was attached to, and they had enough of it. I had it reset by a specialist and it ran beautifully.
@@BritannicaRestorations, I didn’t have a clue how to do it until you showed us, but it was an opportunity to have the pump, which was clearly brand new when the engine was scrapped, tested for all of its calibration - with the timing so far off, what else was mis-set in the factory. But it’s handy to know how to do it for the future.
hi Mike, great video. My 300tdi just had a timing belt change. After that it developed an intermittent loss of fuel supply while pressing the accelerator. One day the engine just stops while i was driving as if i was out of fuel. Does it had to do with the timing belt replacement? Hope you can give me an idea. Thank you
The timing belt should have no impact on fuel supply. I would be checking the filter, shut off solenoid, tank breather and fuel lines for blockages or damage
Thanks for another interesting video Mike, that was a very good explanation. I have a little question about the torque of the central nut, you said was 90 nm?? Thanks for all.
Mike Using your technique to check timing on my freshly rebuilt IP for my 300tdi question, as I push through the “power stroke” on the IP, I am seeing higher lift than 1.6, hits 1.6 at my timing bolt slides correctly, but if I continue to turn, (having removed the bolt again) I am seeing the lift go much higher. Is this right?
So I have a great situation on my series 3 200tdi conversion, After a nice long while of driving, it started to piss diesel down the bottom wade plug hole, I have ordered the bosch ve front seal hoping its the right one. Do I have to bring everything to correct 0 or with this tool I can just take the pump off and fix it and drop it back on the same place ?
@BritannicaRestorations yes everything is on and timed well been driving for a couple of months already so I'll just rotate the engine till the pin locks on the pump then I'll remove it, I bought the tool set cause of you :) didn't think I'd been it already lol
Hello Mike, I have a question for you. In your video at 4:24, you show the tool to draw of and fix the pulley. What is this tool called? I have a Volvo Tamd 41. Do you think I can buy this tool for that engine? Nice video.
That set is dedicated to the Land Rover Tdi's I doubt it will work on a Volvo, But here is a link to a kit (you can get them cheaper on eBay) www.roversnorth.com/parts/rnt2029_timing_tool_kit_diesel_2_5_200_300tdi
@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you so much for the answer, that was quick and useful. Now I know what to look for. The pump looks exactly like the pump on the Volve engine, so I have learned some new things about what to do and what not to do. And thanks for uploading those videos. You are an very good teacher. Best regards Ben, Denmark.
Hello Mike, a great video as always. I wonder if you could cover something for me which may be beneficial for other viewers as well. When timing a pump you always seem to aim at the setting of 1.54mm lift @ TDC would this be correct for an engine which had the EGR set up as standard as the book says 1.4mm, also if you had an engine originally with the EGR that you had fitted a blanking kit to but retained the original pump which would be the best setting to use? I'm sure your thoughts on this would be enlightening. Thanks for all the work you put in to the video's.👍
I have not played with an ERG pump timing - I have noticed that the injectors for the ERG are different and have a higher pressure - could be that the timing is retarded a bit to make up for the higher pressure and cleaner burn? Good question
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks for your thoughts Mike. I had not realised that the injectors were different maybe being a higher pressure the timing is retarded to give more time for pressure build up. Cheers.
great vid as always mike and perfect timing as need to reset mine can a standard bolt be used to lock the pump shaft or do i have to try and find the special old type like u used many thanks
@@BritannicaRestorations was that a land rover manual sorry? I've got a ve30 pump I was trying to set up, im not sure what vehicle it came from and I've read the different R numbers on the pumps are different lift settings but can't seem to find any more information on what they would be
There were 3 types of pump fitted as far as I know - the early none emissions one, the emissions one and an electronic pump - but that was on the Disco and RR Lift on the early ones was 1.56 mm - Usually re set to 1.6 mm the emissions one was different, and I cannot recall off the top of my head, but I know on the emissions one, the injectors had different part numbers
@@BritannicaRestorations that's great thanks very much, I'm pretty sure this is the early one it has the lock of tag thing. Tha ks again for the great video
Great video, often wondered how you do that. I’ve got a spare pump condition unknown. Do you know where you can you get the pump shaft locking pitch bolt? Is it in the kit?
@@BritannicaRestorations I believe he means the length of the bolt used to hold the pump pulley against the tool. You mention at about 5:10 that it doesn't want to be too long or too short and that you would put the length in the video description. I was looking for the same bit of info and came across this comment. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I got to the stage 15:00 ( video time) My dial gauge pointer went one full revolution and 48 ( nearly 1/2 a revolution gain .. so thats 148 .. so I assume that i have to move the flange 148 in order to line up with the timing pin .
@@BritannicaRestorations thank you for reply . My pump has the black cap with 3 wires ..... I have to start from scratch as the damn puller broke a leg
@@BritannicaRestorations No Bud .. its the same as the one in vid ,, its the ve turbo bosch .. I managed to get hold of another pump the same type .. Going to fit that when the weather gets better here ..... I hope you guys are ok with the heatwave at moment .. stay safe
Brilliant - This video is a get out of jail card for me an my son who are restoring a 1988 defender - We timed it on the pin at first - But still it just emitted smoke - Even advancing it by slackening the three bolts and moving the pump in situ was not enough to get it right - just not enough left or right rotation on the actual pulley - So the actual main sprocket on the pump we had was way out - As you say right at the beginning if it has been messed with it beforehand and you time on the pins as you normally would you are never going to get it right. So your method is really the only way to correct it if you cannot get it right on the vehicle. Great video - thanks
Glad it helped!
Great Mike. Very informative. Wish I'd had teachers like you back in the day.
I appreciate that!
My thoughts exactly. Back in the learning days some blokes wouldn't teach you much, it was like joining the freemasons before they told you more than to brew-up.
Bro me too i never had one I look for it everywere my whole life I never got one but end up walking the part on my own
I knew you were too professional to have left it the way it was pleasure to watch !
Yes - it would make it difficult for the next time the belt was changed
Mike,as ever, 10/10 for artistic entertainment. Thoroughly enjoyable.
Awesome videos .. gives me the confidence of tackling these jobs , being disabled and money is always tight . saves me money on garage bills . I like the down to earth approach . keep up the good work . Stay safe , Bud , best wishes from ol' Blighty
"...round of applause..." Clap Clap Clap! Excellent reference video, Mike.
Thanks Dave!
I'm addicted to these videos.... Useless info for me and my TD5 but I can't stop watching 👍🏻 I love understanding how things work, so i'm sitting here with a cup of coffee watching a your vids and learning something new, cheers Mike.
Glad you like them!
Good video didn't go over the top with details easy-to-follow thanks😁👍
Glad it helped
Really good instructional video Mike, thanks for that. I've never seen the job done using all the "correct" tools, all the ones I use I've made, even the adaptor for the dial gauge into the back of the pump, but it works fine.
Glad to help
Many thanks on another excellent /entertaining ( or should it be educating ) video. This one covers my next task.
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant professional and no laptop needed
you know what Mike, i just may have to send you my pump to refurbish!
Awesome job pal. Cheeers!
Problem with refurbishing pumps is setting them up - stripping, cleaning and replacing parts is easy - it is the fine adjustment which is the problem as you never know who has been tinkering with them in the past
@@BritannicaRestorations Exactly!. Thats proberbly why, with this new Tdi im only getting 460 kilometers per tank. Atrocious.
My other one was getting 900-1100 per tank, depending on driving conditions.
Thanks Mike, this really explained this well. I thought it was black magic before!
I don't think many know how to remove the pump with this kit!
That was some valuable information! (even more than usual). Loved the panning camera shots too.
Hi Mike.
Another great tutorial, clear and concise.
Thanks so much for your fantastic explanation.
Cheers
My pleasure!
Camera must have had a couple of Jamesons. Another great video. I've got 3.5RV8 in mine so not hugely applicable but very interesting all the same.
try a posilock puller. they are expensive but the work very well.
That was very good Mike, it's easy to see how a novice could get themselves in a right state. You should get yourself a keen intelligent apprentice to pass those skills on.....could be part of your pension plan!!
Thanks 👍
I used to do the same for Bosch pumps fitted to newholland excavators.
But you must be sure that when you set the injection pump piston stroke at 1.6 you are setting it up for output to the correct cylinder. The pump 360 rotation is divided into 4 quarters.
If you spin the pump round at any time, without your timing flange it is possible to set it up to inject on the wrong cylinder.
The keyway points to the number 1 cylinder on the Tdi
@@BritannicaRestorations that bit you pulled off with the 3 leg puller can't have a keyway or you wouldn't have been able to adjust its position
Dead right Stephen, an ya Up ta y'er Boll*x in Shite on a building site, upside down through the engine cover trying to get her going for the morning, but t'is an awful lot easier than today, it's like taking the back off the Telly !
@@jackvaughan7577 ha yeah you know the score 👍
There is a keyway in the shaft but not in the pulley
Thank you very much for the tutorial I am going to apply it
Glad it was helpful!
Your explanation is brilliant! thanks so much
You're very welcome!
Great explanation Mike. Could you do a video on the essential tools of LR maintenance. Thanks
Great suggestion!
Mike I'm quite upset about this video ! The way you explained it I actually understood the whole deal . This won't do !😲👍🏻
Peace and love brother👍🏻☮❤
Thanks!
Thank you for the info. Keep making these great videos please 🙏
Will do!
👏 Cheers Mike. 🥃 Again learnd sething new! Thank you. 👍
Glad to hear it!
Thanks for the video appreciate the information
No problem 👍
I had a similar experience. The pump on my RRC needed replacing and I bought a very new pump from a contact who’d bought a 300Tdi cast by the REME as a non-runner after efforts at fixing it. The reason it didn’t run was that new pump having the flange on at the wrong angle, way off, preventing any chance of setting the injection timing - the engine wouldn’t even splutter, let alone run rough, and I assume the same was true of the Army engine it was attached to, and they had enough of it. I had it reset by a specialist and it ran beautifully.
They ae not difficult to do = but you ned the gauge
@@BritannicaRestorations, I didn’t have a clue how to do it until you showed us, but it was an opportunity to have the pump, which was clearly brand new when the engine was scrapped, tested for all of its calibration - with the timing so far off, what else was mis-set in the factory. But it’s handy to know how to do it for the future.
hi Mike, great video. My 300tdi just had a timing belt change. After that it developed an intermittent loss of fuel supply while pressing the accelerator. One day the engine just stops while i was driving as if i was out of fuel. Does it had to do with the timing belt replacement? Hope you can give me an idea. Thank you
The timing belt should have no impact on fuel supply.
I would be checking the filter, shut off solenoid, tank breather and fuel lines for blockages or damage
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks Mike, i will check on that. cheers!
Thanks for another interesting video Mike, that was a very good explanation. I have a little question about the torque of the central nut, you said was 90 nm??
Thanks for all.
Another very interesting video.
Thanks again!
Thanks
Welcome!
Thanks Mike I enjoyed this very much. Could a similar technique be used on a 300 tdi fitted to an automatic discovery?
I believe so - never seen one
The tool you use to lock the injector can be used in place of your 3 arm puller
Mike
Using your technique to check timing on my freshly rebuilt IP for my 300tdi
question, as I push through the “power stroke” on the IP, I am seeing higher lift than 1.6, hits 1.6 at my timing bolt slides correctly, but if I continue to turn, (having removed the bolt again) I am seeing the lift go much higher. Is this right?
That is correct - you are setting the timing at 1.6 - it will go higher as it is not it's peak but the setting point for the pump
To make it easier crack of taper then rotate pump with double nut to hold shaft then lock pump slide on taper done
So I have a great situation on my series 3 200tdi conversion, After a nice long while of driving, it started to piss diesel down the bottom wade plug hole, I have ordered the bosch ve front seal hoping its the right one. Do I have to bring everything to correct 0 or with this tool I can just take the pump off and fix it and drop it back on the same place ?
It is critical to get the pulley on correctly - if you follow the video you will see the procedure
@BritannicaRestorations yes everything is on and timed well been driving for a couple of months already so I'll just rotate the engine till the pin locks on the pump then I'll remove it, I bought the tool set cause of you :) didn't think I'd been it already lol
Hello Mike, I have a question for you. In your video at 4:24, you show the tool to draw of and fix the pulley. What is this tool called? I have a Volvo Tamd 41. Do you think I can buy this tool for that engine? Nice video.
That set is dedicated to the Land Rover Tdi's I doubt it will work on a Volvo,
But here is a link to a kit (you can get them cheaper on eBay)
www.roversnorth.com/parts/rnt2029_timing_tool_kit_diesel_2_5_200_300tdi
@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you so much for the answer, that was quick and useful. Now I know what to look for. The pump looks exactly like the pump on the Volve engine, so I have learned some new things about what to do and what not to do. And thanks for uploading those videos. You are an very good teacher. Best regards Ben, Denmark.
Hello Mike, a great video as always. I wonder if you could cover something for me which may be beneficial for other viewers as well. When timing a pump you always seem to aim at the setting of 1.54mm lift @ TDC would this be correct for an engine which had the EGR set up as standard as the book says 1.4mm, also if you had an engine originally with the EGR that you had fitted a blanking kit to but retained the original pump which would be the best setting to use? I'm sure your thoughts on this would be enlightening. Thanks for all the work you put in to the video's.👍
I have not played with an ERG pump timing - I have noticed that the injectors for the ERG are different and have a higher pressure - could be that the timing is retarded a bit to make up for the higher pressure and cleaner burn?
Good question
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks for your thoughts Mike. I had not realised that the injectors were different maybe being a higher pressure the timing is retarded to give more time for pressure build up. Cheers.
That is what I was thinking
Mike. 'Muriel from Malawi' strike Four ! Did one remove all that excess black used silicon around the pump faces ? V.
great vid as always mike and perfect timing as need to reset mine can a standard bolt be used to lock the pump shaft or do i have to try and find the special old type like u used many thanks
I managed to find a good 2nd user ( secondhand) bolt ( from Bob Beck diesels ) You can find them on auction sites
@@chriskautz3245 many thanks ive been looking for ages still cant seem to find one
@@andygough4666 www.bobbeckfuelinjection.co.uk/locking-bolt-bosch-ve-pump1463414306-5844-p.asp
what is the tool called for removing the pump? Trying to find one online :)
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254263118507
Mike do you ever adjust the fuelling or modify the pumps?
No
I’ve tried tried myself in the past, had lots of black smoke or high egt, so back to original spec now.
What's it going to take to get that engine up to scratch? Reboring and rings enough?
Yes
Hi Mike great video. That bracket you made was handy! How did you find the measurment for the lift please? Many thanks, Rob.
The measurements are in the workshop manuals
@@BritannicaRestorations was that a land rover manual sorry? I've got a ve30 pump I was trying to set up, im not sure what vehicle it came from and I've read the different R numbers on the pumps are different lift settings but can't seem to find any more information on what they would be
There were 3 types of pump fitted as far as I know - the early none emissions one, the emissions one and an electronic pump - but that was on the Disco and RR
Lift on the early ones was 1.56 mm - Usually re set to 1.6 mm the emissions one was different, and I cannot recall off the top of my head, but I know on the emissions one, the injectors had different part numbers
@@BritannicaRestorations that's great thanks very much, I'm pretty sure this is the early one it has the lock of tag thing. Tha ks again for the great video
Mike, whats the size of the bolts you used please?
Great video, often wondered how you do that. I’ve got a spare pump condition unknown. Do you know where you can you get the pump shaft locking pitch bolt? Is it in the kit?
I am trying to figure out where I can get one of those bolts also. Did you ever find one? I'm working on this right now.
What size are the bolts you used on the tool to space the pulley?
Ralph - can you elaborate?
@@BritannicaRestorations I believe he means the length of the bolt used to hold the pump pulley against the tool. You mention at about 5:10 that it doesn't want to be too long or too short and that you would put the length in the video description. I was looking for the same bit of info and came across this comment. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Can i time my vp44 without a tool...320d preface?
Did anyone check out the Brandt BRV made in Bloemfontein SA they do have their own facebook page
yes
@@BritannicaRestorations personaly i havent seen one myself butt it looks good though.
Now set it With the timing at large ( of engine)
This kind of boss is not easy to get I search for them my whole life
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387114934931?itmmeta=01J36SJ1WMY39XGENE11K04FKM&hash=item5a21d92293:g:0Y4AAOSwIhBmeU05&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABACn8vGWqZGtnOO%2BCbim8XtzUMryhGmxp3%2BBk%2FigZDFKogNObaxIpuMcGd1J%2BU%2FCEktNOqDfLtruiGetVzLUE3ScoKlnDE7sU0poud0p%2BrAZOSyr20WpSDLYmJ56XXujUHxJshFJWXUQTCxmvQ1yoFX5H1ZjHvj4%2BleboEsl3LstlMPa03BZGZn4tFyqSbU1RCUxwW0P2573pHXzZlig7uxE28E%2BobauhVkvl2Ts680ksbv8Gxo6C5s8fEMx1c0%2FA7SMI8kXvhNJPX7WDtttOgWjZ4WXiAmQzt6cRgJq8VQPjV1vKrMeYcDFqZbr0gUe4z42F6z8DvCZoUTvuXHyRgLs%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMuJ7I2Zlk
I got to the stage 15:00 ( video time) My dial gauge pointer went one full revolution and 48 ( nearly 1/2 a revolution gain .. so thats 148 .. so I assume that i have to move the flange 148 in order to line up with the timing pin .
1.56 is the regular timing on non EGR pumps - please check before adjusting
@@BritannicaRestorations thank you for reply . My pump has the black cap with 3 wires ..... I have to start from scratch as the damn puller broke a leg
Is this an EGR pump?
@@BritannicaRestorations No Bud .. its the same as the one in vid ,, its the ve turbo bosch .. I managed to get hold of another pump the same type .. Going to fit that when the weather gets better here ..... I hope you guys are ok with the heatwave at moment .. stay safe
Anyone here run their pumps at 1.6mm?
How was the performance?
Runs will with a bit more sparkle - but this was an old style pump NOT the EGR which has a different setting
I’ve just turned the engine with the timing pin in, and there’s diesel running over my new timing belt,
Sadly you have broken the front of the injector pump - will have to be replaced
Hello again, What was the bolt size ?
OH engine in place this is quite tricky to line the bolts up LOL
Can you be a bit more specific?
@BritannicaRestorations sorry the bolts you used to attach the puller ? I got the bolts in the set I got but seem too long or short
It will be the short bolts in the kit - you only need 2 bolts to get the pulley off the pump and locked in place - DO NOT over tighten!
@BritannicaRestorations ok thank you
fantastic - now did the bloke that owns the landy have a rich relative die yesterday because that was not in his budget - LOL