Besides an aged seal, another reason the front seals fail on the VE pumps is an over-tensioned timing belt. It pulls everything ever so slightly out of alignment and causes rapid wear of the seal. Pretty soon you’ve got diesel in your timing case and your timing belt will very quickly become tatters. This can happen in just a few hundred miles. Tension your timing belt correctly! Mike has lots of videos on this.
Another one of those jobs I am glad to see done first So know the pitfalls and don’t bugger it up. Mine seems ok at 150k + miles but at 26 years old it may be another job just around the corner. On a high note( for me), my Defender 110 300Tdi passed it’s MOT today with no advisories, yesterday was a busy day going around everything that I’d made a note of needing done over the past year. Human nature to put off non urgent jobs off till MOT time.
That was a clever trick Mike. I will put it in my memory bank but will never be able to recall it when I really need it! I was a bit concerned about the O ring getting damage on the screw threads as you turned them. Maybe put the pick between them? What do you think? Foolishly to the end cover off my Toyota pump in the vehicle, plink plonk plink went the internals. I managed to get them all back into place holding them with a lot of Vaseline. A job I will never repeat, pump out next time.
Nearly missed part 2...Removed the rear seal in the same way IIRC? Although I think I just used one screw and yanked it with a pair of pliers...or that may have been a crank or camshalf seal...it's been a while..
Hey, i have a question. I have a bosch ve pump on my diesel and it leaks in air from somewhere so it doesnt start. I changed the pipe from the filter to the pump to clear, and every time I prime it and try to start it, a big bubble flows up from the pump. I changed the front shaft seal a couple months ago, the car hasnt been running since, and i found out that my front shaft seal that I installed is 17x28x7, and the one i took out is 17x28x7.3. Could that 0.3 mm make that much difference that it sucks in air so that it doesnt start?
The seal should be OK - it would pour out fuel if it was the wrong size. See if you can pressurize the fuel tank by no more than 4 PSI - this will find leaks in the fuel lines You didn't state what vehicle you were working on
Besides an aged seal, another reason the front seals fail on the VE pumps is an over-tensioned timing belt. It pulls everything ever so slightly out of alignment and causes rapid wear of the seal. Pretty soon you’ve got diesel in your timing case and your timing belt will very quickly become tatters. This can happen in just a few hundred miles. Tension your timing belt correctly! Mike has lots of videos on this.
I watched both front and rear seal videos. Both were very helpful and informative. Thanks for taking the time to share your skills!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks!
Welcome!
Another one of those jobs I am glad to see done first So know the pitfalls and don’t bugger it up. Mine seems ok at 150k + miles but at 26 years old it may be another job just around the corner. On a high note( for me), my Defender 110 300Tdi passed it’s MOT today with no advisories, yesterday was a busy day going around everything that I’d made a note of needing done over the past year. Human nature to put off non urgent jobs off till MOT time.
That was a clever trick Mike. I will put it in my memory bank but will never be able to recall it when I really need it!
I was a bit concerned about the O ring getting damage on the screw threads as you turned them. Maybe put the pick between them? What do you think?
Foolishly to the end cover off my Toyota pump in the vehicle, plink plonk plink went the internals. I managed to get them all back into place holding them with a lot of Vaseline. A job I will never repeat, pump out next time.
Another good one thanks danny
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for an very patient & informative vid.
What is the O.D of the front seals?(just for comparative purposes on another brand pump I am working on)
Thanks for the help, I just did this seal on my 1HZ Toyota, but I drove the seal about 1mm in from flush, will this be ok ?
It should
That's how I used to get seal out of steering box
Nearly missed part 2...Removed the rear seal in the same way IIRC? Although I think I just used one screw and yanked it with a pair of pliers...or that may have been a crank or camshalf seal...it's been a while..
This was a tight little blighter!
@@BritannicaRestorations 😂
Hey, i have a question. I have a bosch ve pump on my diesel and it leaks in air from somewhere so it doesnt start. I changed the pipe from the filter to the pump to clear, and every time I prime it and try to start it, a big bubble flows up from the pump. I changed the front shaft seal a couple months ago, the car hasnt been running since, and i found out that my front shaft seal that I installed is 17x28x7, and the one i took out is 17x28x7.3. Could that 0.3 mm make that much difference that it sucks in air so that it doesnt start?
The seal should be OK - it would pour out fuel if it was the wrong size.
See if you can pressurize the fuel tank by no more than 4 PSI - this will find leaks in the fuel lines
You didn't state what vehicle you were working on
@@BritannicaRestorations It’s a ford Sierra 1.8 turbo diesel, stock pump is lucas cav, but I trashed it and changed it to Bosch
I didn't see you replace the large 0 ring
Was in the video before this