I give the tips of my circlip pliers a few taps with a small hammer till there is a slight burr on the ends, this helps to stop the circlip pliers from sliping out of the circlip.
Many thanks for this great video. It gave me the insight to replace the turbo cartridge on my Defender 200tdi. Must have got lucky with the 4 M8 machine screws. Something you didn't show on the video was undoing the 7/8 a/f screwed union for the oil drain what a bummer really tight.
Some guys put copper around the hole and weld into the hole to lenthen the stud and then weld a bolt head on and unscrew it lik that some people put a copper pipe piece into the hole if deap and wekd it up like that and then weld a bolt on and remove it otherwise dril and tap
You cant beat the old burning tackle, you would have that thing heated up to a dull red in less than a minute. Easy peasy every time. Great video Mike. Best wishes, Yorkshire Rob.
@@BritannicaRestorations No they dont Mike. And I only have mine as a left over from my scrapyard days, but its to handy to get rid of. I can hardly wait for part two.
Hello new defender (94 TDI 300) owner and discovering the joys of the continuing incontinence of oil leaks i have a leak at the bull horn where the manifold joins the can these be welded or is there another way to stop the leak cheers Kenny ps enjoying your video's helped me tackle many problems so far
@@BritannicaRestorations its the description i have been finding the pipe that you have removed from the manifold where it is cut and you said you could weld it mine is weeping between the pipe and the manifold I've checked the turbo there is slight play I've took of the inlet manifold hardly any oil in their so im not sure why it is weeping it is also a bit of gunge (oil or unburnt fuel im not sure) in the egr blanking port hole there isn't any exhaust gas getting out either i did discover today that the glow plugs were not getting power i had recently changed them the old ones were totally humped and had blown the 60 amp fuse so it could be unburnt fuel im not sure thanks for any help and the quick reply Kenny (Scotland)
Not done one but if someone hadn't buggered it up could you have pulled the compressor housing circlip first, pulled the compressor housing off to get a better shot at exhaust bolts with an impact? Near the end is a good shot for eye protection, did you spot the sparks fly when the circlip snapped back!
@@BritannicaRestorations bugger, if the core was scrap could you snap them off with something. I've debated for a long time putting a core in while the mainfold is still on the engine, people who sell the cores make it look easy! To me that looks like a disaster, lovely heat hardened bolts snapped in the worst place! Looks best to buy a used duff manifold and refurb on the bench first.
I mentioned before on here that if you have a go yourself then fine - it is your time and effort, but if you are paying your mechanic time to struggle on with rusted parts, it would be cheaper to fit a new unit or a known used unit, than replace the cartridge. Sometimes it is difficult to explain to customers that it is cheaper for them for me to open a box, bolt the part on and be done in half an hour, than waste half a day struggling on with rusted parts
Ohh cant wait to try this out on the turbo and manifold that I bought for £.99p from ebay, PS not a cheapskate, didnt ask for change from the £1 paid, or will just send it to the Wizard Andrew at Allisport
As an ex owner of a high mileage 300Tdi, this is not a job any owner would have to do very often, if at all. I never had any turbo problems in 15 years of ownership, because Mike works pretty exclusively on the 300 he gets to do this job, I'd say on a reasonably regular basis. As we can see from this video, the job is doable with some mechanical skills and some basic tools, it's a job I wouldn't be afraid to tackle if required.
I think the point of this, is you can do it yourself, BUT if you need to replace the turbo and you have the option of a new turbo assembly OR the cheaper cartridge replaced by your local mechanic, take into account the shop time to take the unit apart - which can suck up hours
To anyone out there that hasn't had the pleasure of a gas gun. Go get yourself one and use the yellow Map gas. You won't believe the pleasure of a nut coming of so simply after an hour of struggle with no results.
I used heat, WD and a spanner with a 4ft jack handle. Went very slowly and done the backwards and forwards trick. Worked thank goodness. I did however shear off a bolt taking off the egt cover. Who designs these things! Bloody sadists....
I give the tips of my circlip pliers a few taps with a small hammer till there is a slight burr on the ends, this helps to stop the circlip pliers from sliping out of the circlip.
Many thanks for this great video. It gave me the insight to replace the turbo cartridge on my Defender 200tdi. Must have got lucky with the 4 M8 machine screws. Something you didn't show on the video was undoing the 7/8 a/f screwed union for the oil drain what a bummer really tight.
The 300Tdi had a 2 screw flange and not the screwed union
"Better still, I got my prick out"
Pure gold! :-D
Half the battle was dealing with Sir Clipp.
He’s a nasty gent 😉🤣
A bounder!
@@BritannicaRestorations LOL!
What size thread are the 4 bolts?
I've managed to snap 2!
Drilled out but not sure on the thread size.
A job I wish I never start
M8 x 1.25 = standard metric thread
I would be tempted to drill them out and helicoil them - chances are you will not drill them out square
Some guys put copper around the hole and weld into the hole to lenthen the stud and then weld a bolt head on and unscrew it lik that some people put a copper pipe piece into the hole if deap and wekd it up like that and then weld a bolt on and remove it otherwise dril and tap
You cant beat the old burning tackle, you would have that thing heated up to a dull red in less than a minute. Easy peasy every time. Great video Mike. Best wishes, Yorkshire Rob.
Yes I could Rob, but not everyone has that gear on hand
@@BritannicaRestorations No they dont Mike. And I only have mine as a left over from my scrapyard days, but its to handy to get rid of. I can hardly wait for part two.
Hello new defender (94 TDI 300) owner and discovering the joys of the continuing incontinence of oil leaks i have a leak at the bull horn where the manifold joins the can these be welded or is there another way to stop the leak cheers Kenny
ps enjoying your video's helped me tackle many problems so far
I am not sure what you mean by bullhorn?
@@BritannicaRestorations its the description i have been finding
the pipe that you have removed from the manifold where it is cut and you said you could weld it
mine is weeping between the pipe and the manifold I've checked the turbo there is slight play I've took of the inlet manifold hardly any oil in their so im not sure why it is weeping it is also a bit of gunge (oil or unburnt fuel im not sure) in the egr blanking port hole
there isn't any exhaust gas getting out either
i did discover today that the glow plugs were not getting power i had recently changed them the old ones were totally humped and had blown the 60 amp fuse so it could be unburnt fuel im not sure
thanks for any help and the quick reply Kenny (Scotland)
Not done one but if someone hadn't buggered it up could you have pulled the compressor housing circlip first, pulled the compressor housing off to get a better shot at exhaust bolts with an impact? Near the end is a good shot for eye protection, did you spot the sparks fly when the circlip snapped back!
You cannot get access to the bolt heads because of the cooling fins on the cartridge
@@BritannicaRestorations bugger, if the core was scrap could you snap them off with something. I've debated for a long time putting a core in while the mainfold is still on the engine, people who sell the cores make it look easy! To me that looks like a disaster, lovely heat hardened bolts snapped in the worst place! Looks best to buy a used duff manifold and refurb on the bench first.
I mentioned before on here that if you have a go yourself then fine - it is your time and effort, but if you are paying your mechanic time to struggle on with rusted parts, it would be cheaper to fit a new unit or a known used unit, than replace the cartridge.
Sometimes it is difficult to explain to customers that it is cheaper for them for me to open a box, bolt the part on and be done in half an hour, than waste half a day struggling on with rusted parts
Ohh cant wait to try this out on the turbo and manifold that I bought for £.99p from ebay, PS not a cheapskate, didnt ask for change from the £1 paid, or will just send it to the Wizard Andrew at Allisport
Phil - you were ripped off! lol!
i realise its cast but why not weld up the EGR port instead of trying to drill the stud out
I could do, but it is cast iron
Great to watch you tackle the "more testing" tasks.
A bit of light would be welcome if possible?
Noted
I’m surprised that you didn’t give that broken stud a dose of heat and candle wax now in case you need to remove it in the future?
As an ex owner of a high mileage 300Tdi, this is not a job any owner would have to do very often, if at all. I never had any turbo problems in 15 years of ownership, because Mike works pretty exclusively on the 300 he gets to do this job, I'd say on a reasonably regular basis. As we can see from this video, the job is doable with some mechanical skills and some basic tools, it's a job I wouldn't be afraid to tackle if required.
I think the point of this, is you can do it yourself, BUT if you need to replace the turbo and you have the option of a new turbo assembly OR the cheaper cartridge replaced by your local mechanic, take into account the shop time to take the unit apart - which can suck up hours
I remember having a look at my Daihatsu Rocky f78 turbo after over 500,000km ,she was sweet. Great little 2.8 turbo 4x4.
To anyone out there that hasn't had the pleasure of a gas gun. Go get yourself one and use the yellow Map gas.
You won't believe the pleasure of a nut coming of so simply after an hour of struggle with no results.
Enough heat to braze or sliver solder light material quickly!
AND super fast when soldering plumbing fittings!
I used heat, WD and a spanner with a 4ft jack handle. Went very slowly and done the backwards and forwards trick. Worked thank goodness. I did however shear off a bolt taking off the egt cover. Who designs these things! Bloody sadists....
And Allen head bolts too = just to make life interesting!
Hmm it’s not worth it just replace the turbo since it might be more expensive if turbo blows
Exactly!
Do you have any normal spanner’s left? You seem to have made so many ‘special’ spanner’s 😂
lol! I have draw fulls of 'specials'!
Snap On would be jealous !
Most of the viewer won't understand what spanner is.
Bugger of a job.......
Nightmare - I have seen folk try to do this on the vehicle!