The stock controller is terrible! Go 72v with an asi bac 855 controller and you will find out what this over built motor is really capable off. Even at 52v with the bac is like night and day difference. At 52v the battery needs to be able to run 70amps and at 72v the battery needs to run 55amps. 72v bat fully charged will give u over 4500w and a top speed of over 50mph 🙂.
It isn't the best for sure but it works for us right now. Completely agree with you that this motor is over built and has more potential than what the stock controller is capable of producing. Some questions for you... we have the 52v on the Giant NRS 3 and the 48v for the Specialized Rockhopper. Will the ASI BAC855 controller work for the 48v as well? Also, our concern has always been battery life to be able to travel further. With this bac855 controller running much higher amps, that would technically drain the battery faster wouldn't it? A top speed of over 50mph lol motorcycle status for sure! 🤘😁👍
@@FirstTimersCycling yes, the bac will work at 48v, I believe even 36v it automatically recognises what voltage u have and sets itself accordingly. Personally I wouldn't recommend 48v as its like having a sports car but restricting it to a third of its potential (acceleration and top speed). If u stuck with the 52v battery it would defo drain bat quicker for obvious reasons as u prob already know. Its going from a 28amp motor to a 75amp motor. U obviously wouldn't be using 75 all the time and prob only under acceleration. The 72v bat will last a lot longer than a 52v if had similar ah. Reason being is 72v uses 55amps to get a little more than 52v at 75amp. The lower amps is also better for heat as amps create heat. I have 2 bikes with bac 855 and bafang on. On uses 52v battery at 34ah and the other St 72v 21ah and the range is similar except the 72v is quicker. Hope this helped 👍
@@MrChelseafc88 Thanks for answering! Yeah on the Rockhopper, we were limited to the 48v battery due to the frame size being a SM. The Giant NRS bike is a M/L so it was able to fit the 52v. But good to know and thank you for sharing!
@@guamking671 I'm assuming u mean you want to replace the 52v with 72. Not many places sell off the shelf, only one I can think off is electron cycles in UK. Maybe electrify ebike and luna has some but I'm not sure. I build my own batteries. I'd stear clear of the Ali batteries though, go to a reputable dealer for safety or build/get built the perfect spec battery for you
I installed a BBSHD motor on my MTB about 4 months ago and absolutely love it. Unfortunately I was recently hit by a car while on it, got T-boned, I got injured pretty bad and the bike was all destroyed minus the motor. When I got my bike back days later from the police dept I looked over it and noticed out of everything the only thing that survived was the motor and seat lol The HD is definitely true it’s Heavy Duty alright. When I’m fully recovered I will be shopping for another bike and install the motor on it. Guys Keep the BBSHD videos coming and be safe 👍🏼
Oh no! At least you are okay and recovering. The bike is indeed replaceable but not your life. Sheesh that sucks. We are loving the BBSHD as well! Actually in the process of converting another bike with the same kit but a 48v mini shark battery instead due to clearance. We hope for your speedy recovery and thanks for stopping by to comment!
So far i have done 700km of riding, my friends dad is a professional mechanic with a background on bike repairing for couple of decade's and he installed it for me for free, he put everything in right newtonmeters using specialized tools and i havent had any problems that many say that the motor will become loose so i think its only because people dont actually realize how much of momentum u need to tight the nut to 120nm its insane ammount and you really cant do it that well without some specialized tools. Only problem is that i had the same problem with a left side crank and my friends family were on holiday for a trip for a month so i just bought lekkie cranks which were super expensive like 150 bucks but i havent had the left side coming loose problem anymore.
I've installed a few of the BBSDH. I always have them come back at the 50-mile or 30 day mark and then tighten everything back up. After that they seem to hold well. But I still go over everything at the end of the season here in Ohio. Go with the BAC or at the least the LUNA controller.
Yeah it's good practice to go over everything after whatever mileage interval you decide. I like to do an overall check before every ride. Changing the controller/display will be something we will visit later. Right now it's fine for what it does but thanks for the recommendation! It seems many love the BAC.
Blue Locktite on mine. previous experience with red on another unrelated bike project needed torch to unfasten. Unless the bolts are stainless steel, you will strip out the head using red when trying to unfasten, then out comes the torch!
We got lucky on both our setups. The red loctite wasn't as strong as we anticipated so the bolt loosened right up without a torch. Thanks for the warnings though! We did end up cleaning the threads and just torqued the bolt on. Haven't had a problem since!
Red Loctite has a feature called “ prevailing torque” ie it continues to get stronger after it initially breaks loose (actually called break loose torque!) so this can be an issue. Blue does not do this and is strong enough for most applications. Also worth knowing is Loctite cure more slowly and to a lesser strength on stainless. Using activator speeds things up and ensures full cure. Biggest issue with stainless is galling on dry threads.
I found that my motor pushed upwards touching the underside of the down tube, I slackened off the motor, swung it down slightly and put some hard plastic as a damper worked great, the plastic sheet I cut to fit is about 3mm thick so damps between the motor top and frame.
Good thinking! I believe on our bikes, being 26" the ground clearance is minimal especially with the motor hanging down from the BB, so we wanted it as close to the underside of the downtube as possible. If it ever comes loose, we'll find something to use as a damper just incase. Thanks for sharing!
Your battery reading issue is usually more common on the 52 volt version. On all it is better to read voltage. It is dead on accurate. You will need to service your motor. I have not opened any e-bike motor, hub or mid, that came from the factory properly greased. When you first hear noise, just know it must be disassembled and repacked. Even if your locktite solution works, you will need to remove the crank arms to repack internal bearings and gears. You will have to use a seal destroying torch to take that bolt out. Blue may have been a better choice, but far more likely, you just did not tighten the crank bolts tight enough originally. You will have trouble with the main motor mount coming loose from time to time. Be sure to check it monthly. After the first few times the issue seems to sort of go away. This is another reason I prefer The Tongsheng TSDZ2. It has a secondary mount. Though no where near as powerful, it is lighter, for better handling. It also is torque sensing, so you need no shift sensor or brake cut-offs. Torque sensing extends range and provides immediate response the moment your foot hits the pedals. This is great for riding in stop and go traffic.
Our C961 display controller doesn't show voltage unfortunately. Went through all the options and it just doesn't have it but good to know that this is common on the 52v version. We actually opened the casing of the motor to find very little grease packed from factory so we ended up cleaning and repacking with moly grease. The red locktite didn't require a torch as we thought, the bolt loosened with some strength but definitely stronger than blue loctite. We know it's not recommended but it's working for our applications. Thanks for your feedback and commenting! 👍👍
@@MHH3180 Yeah watched a video that some Bafang kits didn't come lubed up enough due to possible lack of supplies so we just thought to check. Good thing too because there was barely any grease! Yup got lucky on the red Loctite lol. Just in case we do bring an allen set to tighten during a ride if it ever were to loosen again. Thanks again for your insight!
I've had to tighten the bottom bracket with mine twice but the second tightening has held for months and I think its basically finally tight. I think it needs time to settle and bite. I'd recommend tightening the bottom bracket over using hose clamps to secure the motor unless you absolutely need them.
Yes, on Alvin's bike maybe because it is full suspension, his BB loosened even after going over it a few times after rides. That's why we went with the hose clamps. On my bike it hasn't loosened but have the hose clamps for reassurance. Probably don't need them but would rather have it on instead of not.
@@FirstTimersCycling Mine has front and rear suspension too but I generally ride over relatively smooth bike tracks as a commute rather than rocky bike trails :-)
I never use the stock screw provided by the kit for the crank arm i use the regular hex screw for crank arm it has a some indentations that will bite to the metal so that it will not come loose until now i have no problems about loose cranks.
Yeah we checked that out from another person commenting about it. As of right now our cheap fix is currently holding even after some bumpy trails and small jumps. If or when this fails, we'll get that torque arm from lunacycle. Thanks for commenting!
What I don't like is where you mounted the hailong battery on your bike. Looks like it would be a pain to remove the battery and put it back on. With that bike, I would mount it on the top tube and not the bottom tube. Appreciate the video though. Plan on getting a BBSHD for my next conversion. Have a 1000W Front Hub Voilamart motor right now and think it works great.
Thanks for commenting! Actually it's not too bad to remove the battery as we have one bolt securing the battery mount at the bottom to act as a pivot point and a ziptie holding the top. Once we cut the ziptie all we have to do is turn the battery to the side of the frame and pull it out. Don't know how I feel about mounting a battery on top of the top tube as that would create more weight at the top and can hinder the handling. Haven't ridden many hub mount drives but you'll love the BBSHD mid drive for sure. Keep us posted on your setup, if you put the battery on the top tube, let us know how it performs! 👍
@@FirstTimersCycling Happy you realized my intentions with the comment were meant to be helpful. I did notice a zip tie around the battery on your bike. I recommend REUSABLE zip ties. I have them on my current hub motor. Came in handy recently when I got my first FRONT flat tire in over two years. With my first hub motor that was ruined by the rain (thanks to a mistake from someone I still respect), I didn't need them but with this one that's better than the first one, I do. I don't think the weight is a problem. Just don't mount that thing upside down. As long as you have a no drill mount kit or double/triple bobs for keeping the battery sturdy, you're good. Anyone here is the link to my setup if you're interested and with this bike I choose top tube, either top tube or rear rack for safe mounting options: ruclips.net/video/MZqS2YF8grg/видео.html Honestly it is a hub setup but it is incredible and I am very happy with it. Front wheel I use a 21mm socket wrench for it that has one end open and another one closed. Have to use the open end socket for the side with the wires.
@@ChrisBFerguson We are noobs so any constructive criticism is taken with appreciation! We have a container full of regular zipties but once they run out, we'll switch to reusable. That for sure is a better idea since I like to remove the battery when washing the bike down. Saw your video, with that bike your top tube goes down so anybody can ride it. Our bikes are sized to the rider and the top tube is more parallel to the ground so putting a battery up top would make it harder to put our feet down when we get off the seat if that makes any sense. We like to ride mountain trails and downhills so that would be bad for us.
I Have bbshd 52v 35ah 18600 samsung 35e 14s10p custom batery and reached downhill 88.2kmh around 55mph with 46t front chainring on my hardtail Rock shox sektor 150mm travel front fork ,can do whellie throtle only as long the rear disc dont warm up too much ,203mm rotors are a must,next step is asi bac 855 controler and 72v battery continous power 4250watt hope to reach 100kmh 60 mph on flat with maxxis hookworm tyres😎💪🏻💪🏻
Great videos guys, serious riding! I just recently installed a BBS02 on my rigid Bianchi bike. It's pretty cool but I only got a couple rides here in Minnesota before the snow came. Did you find the Q-factor(distance between the crank arms at the pedals) was larger after the install. Mine is almost an in inch wider and most is on the chain ring side. It feels real awkward.
Hey thanks for commenting and glad you are enjoying our rides! Didn't notice the Q-factor being wider at the pedals but when I look at the bike it does look like the drive side is further out about an inch like you are seeing. That could maybe explain why we are experiencing more pedal strikes than before without the Bafang motor, given the same crank arm lengths! Most likely the q-factor had to be widened this way to clear the motor while pedaling is what I'm thinking.
@@FirstTimersCycling I'm glad you see that. I was wondering if I had an install problem. It's the first thing I noticed, but I haven't seen anyone talk about it.
@@jonnylakewood7767 Yup, by the looks of it there is no other way we could have installed it. We did add two spacers for the motor and chainring to clear the chain stay so it's possible that this issue may vary for different chain stay designs.
@@jonnylakewood7767 Hey there, just had a viewer comment on one of our other videos talking about the q-factor being wider and how to fix it with these crank arms by Lekkie. Just wanted to share this info with you since you said it feels awkward. Hopefully this helps! => lekkie.tech/product/lekkie-buzz-bar-cranks/
The C961 controller doesn't have the option to display battery power in voltage unfortunately. We went through all the options and it just doesn't have it.
@@briansmythe3219 Couldn't find them on Amazon anymore. I found it at Walmart but currently out of stock! www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Sports-Comfort-Storage-Bike-Seat-Saddle-Black/49706837
@@FirstTimersCycling Wow Thanks for that , Thats really nice of you I know the name now so i should be able too find one eventually , im getting a bsbhd in a few weeks , Can't wait they Look like fun I seen your hill climb video LOL Just what I need , Thank you Sir your a gentleman
It looks like the frame you're using with the motor has bottle cage mounts on the underside of the downtube near the bottom bracket. Did you guys consider using the stabilizer bar from Luna Cycle? BSBF-1 Stabilizer Bar for BBS02 and BBSHD. I haven't built up my ebike kit yet so it's an intriguing possible solution besides using hose clamps to secure the motor to the frame. It looks like you bolt it to the motor then you mount the whole setup on the bike frame using the bottom bracket and the bottle cage mounts.
Hi and thanks for commenting! Yes we had considered the stabilizer bar but for the price we went with hose clamps instead, and so far it has been holding up for both our bafang setups.
put some real miles on it I have almost 16,000 kph I went throw a lekkie blind ring and I had 42 t so I bought 46 t one now. there not cheap them lekkie bling ring. my crank arms have not come off but bolts have come lose I put some red lock tight. I hear so many people say there motor hanging down I have never had issue with this because I put washer on the right way and it bits into the b.b. I was going through 50 dollar chain and new cassette every months and brake pads. then I got a alfine 8 geared hub and a Shimano nexus chain 13 dollar chain I have had same chain and rear sprocket for 2 years.
Wow that's some miles! We plan to put many miles on ours for as long as it lasts! We too have put red loctite on the bolts and so far so good 👍. On this bike the motor kept loosening itself, even though we had the washer on the correct way with it biting on the BB. With the clamps holding it up, we no longer had this issue. Yeah cassette and chain wear was a big concern. Your experience proves that! Thanks for the tip on the Shimano Nexus chain and 8 geared hub. We've been using the KMC 9spd chain. So far it's been holding up but we haven't put many miles on it yet to see the life. Alvin's bike still has the 9spd cassette, however my bike I've converted to single speed 46T front and 34T rear. It was just a simpler setup for me that I like. Thanks for commenting!
I've had mine on my bike for about 2 weeks now, bike was brand new out of the box, put a kmc chain on it and had it tuned up from the bike shop. But after 2 weeks riding 24 miles a day from home to work I'm getting gear slip in the 3 smaller cogs. Anyone have an idea why that would be, was thinking maybe bike breaking in and have to adjust cause of maybe cabke stretch. Not sure but any help is good.
How many speeds do you have for the cassette? I've read that 9spd chains or lower work the best. I doubt the chain has stretched but you could be right about the bike breaking in since it is new. If you have a bike stand, lift it and shift through the gears without bafang assist and see if you hear the chain riding between gears as if it wants to shift up or down. If you do, it needs to be dialed in again at the rear derailleur.
@@FirstTimersCycling I'm using 8 speed cassette and I don't have a bike stand. Going to the local bike shop tomorrow to see what the problem is but I'm pretty sure it's just breaking in period and see if maintenance to the derailleur and shifting fix the problem.
@@mr.raiders7029 Yeah, bike shops would usually recommend coming back after a few rides to retune after the break in period. Hope that works out for you.
Hi Mr . Raider , Did you buy KMC e-bike chain , that could be an issue if your bike was equipped with other 9 speed chain supplier. It could also be chain line is not accurate enough. Let me know what you did to remedy the slips. Cheers !
The stock controller is terrible! Go 72v with an asi bac 855 controller and you will find out what this over built motor is really capable off. Even at 52v with the bac is like night and day difference. At 52v the battery needs to be able to run 70amps and at 72v the battery needs to run 55amps. 72v bat fully charged will give u over 4500w and a top speed of over 50mph 🙂.
It isn't the best for sure but it works for us right now. Completely agree with you that this motor is over built and has more potential than what the stock controller is capable of producing.
Some questions for you... we have the 52v on the Giant NRS 3 and the 48v for the Specialized Rockhopper. Will the ASI BAC855 controller work for the 48v as well? Also, our concern has always been battery life to be able to travel further. With this bac855 controller running much higher amps, that would technically drain the battery faster wouldn't it?
A top speed of over 50mph lol motorcycle status for sure! 🤘😁👍
@@FirstTimersCycling yes, the bac will work at 48v, I believe even 36v it automatically recognises what voltage u have and sets itself accordingly. Personally I wouldn't recommend 48v as its like having a sports car but restricting it to a third of its potential (acceleration and top speed). If u stuck with the 52v battery it would defo drain bat quicker for obvious reasons as u prob already know. Its going from a 28amp motor to a 75amp motor. U obviously wouldn't be using 75 all the time and prob only under acceleration. The 72v bat will last a lot longer than a 52v if had similar ah. Reason being is 72v uses 55amps to get a little more than 52v at 75amp. The lower amps is also better for heat as amps create heat. I have 2 bikes with bac 855 and bafang on. On uses 52v battery at 34ah and the other St 72v 21ah and the range is similar except the 72v is quicker. Hope this helped 👍
@@MrChelseafc88 Thanks for answering! Yeah on the Rockhopper, we were limited to the 48v battery due to the frame size being a SM. The Giant NRS bike is a M/L so it was able to fit the 52v. But good to know and thank you for sharing!
@EBIK3R where did you get your batteries? Looking to replace my current 52v 14.5 ah battery
@@guamking671 I'm assuming u mean you want to replace the 52v with 72. Not many places sell off the shelf, only one I can think off is electron cycles in UK. Maybe electrify ebike and luna has some but I'm not sure. I build my own batteries. I'd stear clear of the Ali batteries though, go to a reputable dealer for safety or build/get built the perfect spec battery for you
I installed a BBSHD motor on my MTB about 4 months ago and absolutely love it. Unfortunately I was recently hit by a car while on it, got T-boned, I got injured pretty bad and the bike was all destroyed minus the motor. When I got my bike back days later from the police dept I looked over it and noticed out of everything the only thing that survived was the motor and seat lol The HD is definitely true it’s Heavy Duty alright. When I’m fully recovered I will be shopping for another bike and install the motor on it. Guys Keep the BBSHD videos coming and be safe 👍🏼
Oh no! At least you are okay and recovering. The bike is indeed replaceable but not your life. Sheesh that sucks. We are loving the BBSHD as well! Actually in the process of converting another bike with the same kit but a 48v mini shark battery instead due to clearance. We hope for your speedy recovery and thanks for stopping by to comment!
you my brother enjoy the day love your positive vibes hope ya heal up asp
Get rid of the stock controller and fit a BAC855 controller then you will love it even more 😆
@@yj8471 Is it plug & play,I just put a HD on 1 of my mtn bikes & love it..ouch just checked the price $700
After our ride this past weekend it looks like our fix worked! Stay tuned next week for that episode!
So far i have done 700km of riding, my friends dad is a professional mechanic with a background on bike repairing for couple of decade's and he installed it for me for free, he put everything in right newtonmeters using specialized tools and i havent had any problems that many say that the motor will become loose so i think its only because people dont actually realize how much of momentum u need to tight the nut to 120nm its insane ammount and you really cant do it that well without some specialized tools. Only problem is that i had the same problem with a left side crank and my friends family were on holiday for a trip for a month so i just bought lekkie cranks which were super expensive like 150 bucks but i havent had the left side coming loose problem anymore.
Hey thanks for commenting your experience! Yeah was eyeing that Lekkie but too expensive lol. Looks super nice though!
It's nice that your friend's dad had the specialized tools. I'm sure that made all the difference with installs.
I've installed a few of the BBSDH. I always have them come back at the 50-mile or 30 day mark and then tighten everything back up. After that they seem to hold well. But I still go over everything at the end of the season here in Ohio.
Go with the BAC or at the least the LUNA controller.
Yeah it's good practice to go over everything after whatever mileage interval you decide. I like to do an overall check before every ride. Changing the controller/display will be something we will visit later. Right now it's fine for what it does but thanks for the recommendation! It seems many love the BAC.
Blue Locktite on mine. previous experience with red on another unrelated bike project needed torch to unfasten. Unless the bolts are stainless steel, you will strip out the head using red when trying to unfasten, then out comes the torch!
We got lucky on both our setups. The red loctite wasn't as strong as we anticipated so the bolt loosened right up without a torch. Thanks for the warnings though! We did end up cleaning the threads and just torqued the bolt on. Haven't had a problem since!
Red Loctite has a feature called “ prevailing torque” ie it continues to get stronger after it initially breaks loose (actually called break loose torque!) so this can be an issue. Blue does not do this and is strong enough for most applications. Also worth knowing is Loctite cure more slowly and to a lesser strength on stainless. Using activator speeds things up and ensures full cure. Biggest issue with stainless is galling on dry threads.
What size frame whats the biggest battery it holds. Thanks. I got a nrs medium 18" frame looking to convert it to mid drive
Biggest battery would be the Jumbo Shark 52v unless you decide to backpack mount or rack mount a battery
I found that my motor pushed upwards touching the underside of the down tube, I slackened off the motor, swung it down slightly and put some hard plastic as a damper worked great, the plastic sheet I cut to fit is about 3mm thick so damps between the motor top and frame.
Good thinking! I believe on our bikes, being 26" the ground clearance is minimal especially with the motor hanging down from the BB, so we wanted it as close to the underside of the downtube as possible. If it ever comes loose, we'll find something to use as a damper just incase. Thanks for sharing!
Your battery reading issue is usually more common on the 52 volt version. On all it is better to read voltage. It is dead on accurate.
You will need to service your motor. I have not opened any e-bike motor, hub or mid, that came from the factory properly greased. When you first hear noise, just know it must be disassembled and repacked. Even if your locktite solution works, you will need to remove the crank arms to repack internal bearings and gears. You will have to use a seal destroying torch to take that bolt out. Blue may have been a better choice, but far more likely, you just did not tighten the crank bolts tight enough originally.
You will have trouble with the main motor mount coming loose from time to time. Be sure to check it monthly. After the first few times the issue seems to sort of go away. This is another reason I prefer The Tongsheng TSDZ2. It has a secondary mount. Though no where near as powerful, it is lighter, for better handling. It also is torque sensing, so you need no shift sensor or brake cut-offs. Torque sensing extends range and provides immediate response the moment your foot hits the pedals. This is great for riding in stop and go traffic.
Our C961 display controller doesn't show voltage unfortunately. Went through all the options and it just doesn't have it but good to know that this is common on the 52v version.
We actually opened the casing of the motor to find very little grease packed from factory so we ended up cleaning and repacking with moly grease. The red locktite didn't require a torch as we thought, the bolt loosened with some strength but definitely stronger than blue loctite. We know it's not recommended but it's working for our applications. Thanks for your feedback and commenting! 👍👍
@@FirstTimersCycling really pleased you did the lube upfront. I never had that kind of luck with red Loctite. You scored twice!
@@MHH3180 Yeah watched a video that some Bafang kits didn't come lubed up enough due to possible lack of supplies so we just thought to check. Good thing too because there was barely any grease! Yup got lucky on the red Loctite lol. Just in case we do bring an allen set to tighten during a ride if it ever were to loosen again. Thanks again for your insight!
The loosening mount is a design flaw that's why they changed the design on the new motor.
@@ChurchInAshes Ah good to know. In any case after our fix it hasn't loosened itself since.
Mine is the opposite for showing the battery life. My display will show 50 or 60 percent and on the battery shows 85 percent
That's actually how it is for ours. The display shows lower than what the battery shows. We are using the C961 display controller.
I've had to tighten the bottom bracket with mine twice but the second tightening has held for months and I think its basically finally tight. I think it needs time to settle and bite. I'd recommend tightening the bottom bracket over using hose clamps to secure the motor unless you absolutely need them.
Yes, on Alvin's bike maybe because it is full suspension, his BB loosened even after going over it a few times after rides. That's why we went with the hose clamps. On my bike it hasn't loosened but have the hose clamps for reassurance. Probably don't need them but would rather have it on instead of not.
@@FirstTimersCycling Mine has front and rear suspension too but I generally ride over relatively smooth bike tracks as a commute rather than rocky bike trails :-)
just built my first ebike with bbshd i put a Luna bsb-1 bracket on instead of the lock ring its better option as it will never loosen
Sub. Great Info since I'm thinking of converting my full suspension with the same motor.
Riding will never be the same after! Loving the Bafang!
A couple of geniuses!!!
Thank you! Glad you found this video helpful!
I never use the stock screw provided by the kit for the crank arm i use the regular hex screw for crank arm it has a some indentations that will bite to the metal so that it will not come loose until now i have no problems about loose cranks.
Thanks for the tip! For us, using red loctite seems to be holding up.
I got the bafang bbshd torque arm the extra tough one it hasnt come off since i put it on its from lunacycle
Yeah we checked that out from another person commenting about it. As of right now our cheap fix is currently holding even after some bumpy trails and small jumps. If or when this fails, we'll get that torque arm from lunacycle. Thanks for commenting!
What I don't like is where you mounted the hailong battery on your bike. Looks like it would be a pain to remove the battery and put it back on. With that bike, I would mount it on the top tube and not the bottom tube.
Appreciate the video though. Plan on getting a BBSHD for my next conversion. Have a 1000W Front Hub Voilamart motor right now and think it works great.
Thanks for commenting! Actually it's not too bad to remove the battery as we have one bolt securing the battery mount at the bottom to act as a pivot point and a ziptie holding the top. Once we cut the ziptie all we have to do is turn the battery to the side of the frame and pull it out. Don't know how I feel about mounting a battery on top of the top tube as that would create more weight at the top and can hinder the handling. Haven't ridden many hub mount drives but you'll love the BBSHD mid drive for sure. Keep us posted on your setup, if you put the battery on the top tube, let us know how it performs! 👍
@@FirstTimersCycling
Happy you realized my intentions with the comment were meant to be helpful.
I did notice a zip tie around the battery on your bike. I recommend REUSABLE zip ties. I have them on my current hub motor. Came in handy recently when I got my first FRONT flat tire in over two years. With my first hub motor that was ruined by the rain (thanks to a mistake from someone I still respect), I didn't need them but with this one that's better than the first one, I do.
I don't think the weight is a problem. Just don't mount that thing upside down. As long as you have a no drill mount kit or double/triple bobs for keeping the battery sturdy, you're good.
Anyone here is the link to my setup if you're interested and with this bike I choose top tube, either top tube or rear rack for safe mounting options: ruclips.net/video/MZqS2YF8grg/видео.html
Honestly it is a hub setup but it is incredible and I am very happy with it. Front wheel I use a 21mm socket wrench for it that has one end open and another one closed. Have to use the open end socket for the side with the wires.
@@ChrisBFerguson We are noobs so any constructive criticism is taken with appreciation! We have a container full of regular zipties but once they run out, we'll switch to reusable. That for sure is a better idea since I like to remove the battery when washing the bike down.
Saw your video, with that bike your top tube goes down so anybody can ride it. Our bikes are sized to the rider and the top tube is more parallel to the ground so putting a battery up top would make it harder to put our feet down when we get off the seat if that makes any sense. We like to ride mountain trails and downhills so that would be bad for us.
good info - thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I Have bbshd 52v 35ah 18600 samsung 35e 14s10p custom batery and reached downhill 88.2kmh around 55mph with 46t front chainring on my hardtail Rock shox sektor 150mm travel front fork ,can do whellie throtle only as long the rear disc dont warm up too much ,203mm rotors are a must,next step is asi bac 855 controler and 72v battery continous power 4250watt hope to reach 100kmh 60 mph on flat with maxxis hookworm tyres😎💪🏻💪🏻
LMAO that is INSANE!!! You should make a video of your setup so people can see how it's done! 👍👍
@@FirstTimersCycling yup i will just a litlle bit more money for controler
@@FirstTimersCycling Show a video of that with a standard Bafang stock controller on 52v..
A top speed run? 🤣
@@FirstTimersCycling look at my channel i have a video of drifting,gonna post a top speed downhill run now around 55mph 90kmh
Great videos guys, serious riding! I just recently installed a BBS02 on my rigid Bianchi bike. It's pretty cool but I only got a couple rides here in Minnesota before the snow came.
Did you find the Q-factor(distance between the crank arms at the pedals) was larger after the install. Mine is almost an in inch wider and most is on the chain ring side. It feels real awkward.
Hey thanks for commenting and glad you are enjoying our rides! Didn't notice the Q-factor being wider at the pedals but when I look at the bike it does look like the drive side is further out about an inch like you are seeing. That could maybe explain why we are experiencing more pedal strikes than before without the Bafang motor, given the same crank arm lengths! Most likely the q-factor had to be widened this way to clear the motor while pedaling is what I'm thinking.
@@FirstTimersCycling I'm glad you see that. I was wondering if I had an install problem. It's the first thing I noticed, but I haven't seen anyone talk about it.
@@jonnylakewood7767 Yup, by the looks of it there is no other way we could have installed it. We did add two spacers for the motor and chainring to clear the chain stay so it's possible that this issue may vary for different chain stay designs.
@@jonnylakewood7767 Hey there, just had a viewer comment on one of our other videos talking about the q-factor being wider and how to fix it with these crank arms by Lekkie. Just wanted to share this info with you since you said it feels awkward. Hopefully this helps! => lekkie.tech/product/lekkie-buzz-bar-cranks/
Hey @@FirstTimersCycling, thanks for the link, I'll check into it. Above all, thanks for thinking of me!
The battery indicator isn't accurate it's best reading it in volts and learning what the cut-off voltage is and using that
The C961 controller doesn't have the option to display battery power in voltage unfortunately. We went through all the options and it just doesn't have it.
Haa That Fronk is cool never seen them before
🤣 Bought it on Amazon. I can provide a link if you're interested in getting one for yourself.
@@FirstTimersCycling yeah Thanks Bro That would be good if you don"t mind Im going too get one , Top Idear Thanks
@@briansmythe3219 Couldn't find them on Amazon anymore. I found it at Walmart but currently out of stock! www.walmart.com/ip/Bell-Sports-Comfort-Storage-Bike-Seat-Saddle-Black/49706837
@@FirstTimersCycling Wow Thanks for that , Thats really nice of you I know the name now so i should be able too find one eventually , im getting a bsbhd in a few weeks , Can't wait they Look like fun
I seen your hill climb video LOL Just what I need , Thank you Sir your a gentleman
@@briansmythe3219 Sure no problem! We both have BBSHD's now and yes it's a TON of fun!!
Is that a medium frame. What battery is that
This NRS is a medium frame 18" with a Jumbo Shark 52v battery
@@FirstTimersCycling thank you!!!
@@325-k9k You're very welcome. Enjoy your build!
@@FirstTimersCycling what amp hour did you use maybe 14ah or 17ah?
@@325-k9k 52v 16Ah Jumbo Shark battery by Panasonic
What size hose clamps did u cop
We used a 5" hose clamp to go around the motor and a 2" to secure the Bafang motor to the downtube.
It looks like the frame you're using with the motor has bottle cage mounts on the underside of the downtube near the bottom bracket. Did you guys consider using the stabilizer bar from Luna Cycle? BSBF-1 Stabilizer Bar for BBS02 and BBSHD. I haven't built up my ebike kit yet so it's an intriguing possible solution besides using hose clamps to secure the motor to the frame. It looks like you bolt it to the motor then you mount the whole setup on the bike frame using the bottom bracket and the bottle cage mounts.
Hi and thanks for commenting! Yes we had considered the stabilizer bar but for the price we went with hose clamps instead, and so far it has been holding up for both our bafang setups.
If this fails though then we were going to get that bracket from Luna Cycle.
put some real miles on it I have almost 16,000 kph I went throw a lekkie blind ring
and I had 42 t so I bought 46 t one now. there not cheap them lekkie bling ring. my crank arms have not come off but bolts have come lose I put some red lock tight. I hear so many people say there motor hanging down I have never had issue with this because I put washer on the right way and it bits into the b.b. I was going through 50 dollar chain and new cassette every months and brake pads. then I got a alfine 8 geared hub and a Shimano nexus chain 13 dollar chain I have had same chain and rear sprocket for 2 years.
Wow that's some miles! We plan to put many miles on ours for as long as it lasts! We too have put red loctite on the bolts and so far so good 👍. On this bike the motor kept loosening itself, even though we had the washer on the correct way with it biting on the BB. With the clamps holding it up, we no longer had this issue. Yeah cassette and chain wear was a big concern. Your experience proves that! Thanks for the tip on the Shimano Nexus chain and 8 geared hub. We've been using the KMC 9spd chain. So far it's been holding up but we haven't put many miles on it yet to see the life. Alvin's bike still has the 9spd cassette, however my bike I've converted to single speed 46T front and 34T rear. It was just a simpler setup for me that I like. Thanks for commenting!
I've had mine on my bike for about 2 weeks now, bike was brand new out of the box, put a kmc chain on it and had it tuned up from the bike shop. But after 2 weeks riding 24 miles a day from home to work I'm getting gear slip in the 3 smaller cogs. Anyone have an idea why that would be, was thinking maybe bike breaking in and have to adjust cause of maybe cabke stretch. Not sure but any help is good.
How many speeds do you have for the cassette? I've read that 9spd chains or lower work the best. I doubt the chain has stretched but you could be right about the bike breaking in since it is new. If you have a bike stand, lift it and shift through the gears without bafang assist and see if you hear the chain riding between gears as if it wants to shift up or down. If you do, it needs to be dialed in again at the rear derailleur.
@@FirstTimersCycling I'm using 8 speed cassette and I don't have a bike stand. Going to the local bike shop tomorrow to see what the problem is but I'm pretty sure it's just breaking in period and see if maintenance to the derailleur and shifting fix the problem.
@@mr.raiders7029 Yeah, bike shops would usually recommend coming back after a few rides to retune after the break in period. Hope that works out for you.
@@FirstTimersCycling will update after I take it in
Hi Mr . Raider , Did you buy KMC e-bike chain , that could be an issue if your bike was equipped with other 9 speed chain supplier. It could also be chain line is not accurate enough. Let me know what you did to remedy the slips. Cheers !
Hi is the chainring a 38T?
Hello, the chainring is the stock 46T.
you can always read the voltage, it tells you how full the battery is
Hi thanks for commenting! Went through the options on the C961 LCD display and didnt see a way to select voltage readings. Are we missing something?