I'm not a machinist, but if I would've went to machinist school there's nobody I'd rather learn under than you, Joe. Thankyou once again for no nonsense videos. Much respect.
I seen a lot of people machine up parts for model steam engines, so far your the best that I have seen ! I was a mechanic for 50+ years on industrial equipment small and big units , your the kind of person we depended on for custom parts , keep up the videos there great 👍🏻
I am amazed every time how you come up with smart solutions to clamp something repetitively, it all looks so easy, but it is not. thanks joe, for sharing your wisdom. cheers ben.
Thinking through the order of operations, for the new hobby machinist like myself, is often where I spend a lot of time. You make it look so easy. I doubt I would have thought to make the two halves out of two different pieces.
I have always wondered why Stuart supplied the bearing casting material in such a ”wasteful” way! Now I know, and can put the slitting saw cut & shim idea in the bin, where it should have been in the first place 😂😂😂 Brilliant stuff as usual✅
Very well done. I have the PM-1 engine kit and have been considering using bronze bearings. This gives me ideas on how to do that. The kit will need some changes and those parts are extremely small. But steam engines have always used bronze or Babbitt bearings….not cast iron on cast iron. In fact, the wear elements are often called brasses. I am very impressed by how Stuart did this and how you machined these elements.
Very ingenious way to get the results, making a long / short section from both pieces and milling the halves makes SO much sense. I would like to think I'd of thought of that, but this one may have eluded me, and my thinning hair would be pulled out
Excellent video Joe! I was at a friends place today visiting and I saw an "Old Dusty Bench Lathe", that I didn't know he had. First thing I thought, I'd kill for that, second thing I thought, "Man, the things I could do", haha, thanks for all the videos Sir! Mike.
Another great video. I learn from each video. It is a real joy to see you hit the numbers every time. They tell me I've got a long way to go with my skills. Thanks!
Hey Joe, nice works on these bearings blocks. It fits the base perfectly. The line boring setup would be quite tricky at this scale but not impossible 😁. I'm in the process of building a very similar 2 cylinders steam engine to yours, except it's from solid bar stock and a little bit bigger. It's a nice challenge. Thanks for these videos Best regards
Thanks for your tutelage, Joe. I don't do any of this stuff but I really get a kick out of seeing what some clever buggers can do, and then clearly explain the fine points to other clever-bugger learners! I'm so glad our world is not full of muppets.
Glen- you know what they say about us woodbutchers, “ measure with a micrometer, mark with a pencil, and cut with an axe!” The accuracy of metal working tools run by a veteran is CNC quality, Joe can layout and cut with a manual mill and lathe with tolerance that makes computers blush, eh? 😂😅😊
The old pattern maker that I worked with could achieve tolerances in wood that many machinists find it hard to hit, all with hand tools and a few power tools (jointer, bandsaw, disc sander). A mostly lost art now.
I'd like to suggest a video devoted to the expansion arbor trick. Just last night I had a setup that could use such a trick, wondered how you'd do it, and today here it is.
Gun metal? Gun metal is a cupric alloy that contains (sic) lead. The respirator remark is spot on! Dust that contains lead is NOT to be trifled with. Be careful, but not frantic, when lead is in the picture.
@@eliduttman315 I would be more careful if it was a Beryllium Bronze. Nasty Stuff! A Good trick to know about Brass in general, It drills Beautifully if you take a stone and put a couple thousandths 'Flat' on the sharp Edges. It keeps the drill from getting so "Grabby'. Just slightly Dulled. Works Great Been doing it for 45 years.
Thanks Preso. It did grab initially. The centerdrill pilot diameter was just too tempting. I snugged the quill lock for the initial depths on the remaining holes, then did away with the c'drill all together.
@@joepie221 Would it be more accurate to lock the quill and use the Z-axis for boring, rather than slightly snugging the quill lock and using the quill for boring? Many of us learning are on smaller benchtop / hobby-grade mills, that aren't as rigid and tight as a full-size knee mill. More of a general "best-practice" question, not specific to a relatively small bore like this one, where the cutting edge of the boring bar is close to inline with the spindle.
JoeI always like what I see with your videos. Each one is a valuable lesson on techniques and work holding. It's plain to see already that this going to be another Joe Pie masterpiece. Steve
Joe, @ 3:08 the egg came first. Palaeontologists have found dinosaur eggs, chickens evolved millions of years later. If you had asked which came first the chicken or the chicken egg, that’s a whole other matter🤔.👍🏴
Wow, I would have botched that up. You're method is so much more efficient than my hack job would have been. God I love your vids! Parts always end up perrrrrrfect.
I absolutely love watching you fixture! I am not making a steam engine right now, but your fixturing expertise is applicable to everything. In nearly every video I have a "That is so cool" moment. I will never catch up to you on skill, but you have helped me a lot.
Hi joe from accross the pond, i am following th8s build with great interest, partly for the pleasure of watching a craftman at work and partly to pick up tips Regards Nigel
Hey Joe Thank Thank You sir, There is not a whole lot that impresses me anymore, well this did !! You where meant and born to do this. Great job always brother!! Out
JOE I AM BUILDING A STUART D10 LIVE STEAM ENGINE AND THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED TO SEE. I AM A GOOD MACHINIST BUT YOU ARE A MASTER MACHINIST, A GOOD TEACHER, AND A GREAT VIDEOGRAPHER. YOU ARE DOING EXACTLY WHAT YOU SHOULD BE DOING. I WOULD LIKE TO VISIT YOUR SHOP SOME DAY. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!
Another treat to come into the house to enjoy. I have spent some time in my shed cleaning a couple of vises as well as making a couple of things for my mill that I had been putting off for a long time. I really appreciate your taking the time to explain your rationale for doing things the way that you do.
Hi Joe, just wanted to chime in and tell how much I enjoy your channel. Your projects and your approach to machining is very interesting to me as an amateur machinist myself. I have a small "Micro Lathe" and a H.F. Mill and metalworking spawned from my need to make replacement R.C. Helicopter parts. One thing leads to another with me and I have pretty much self-educated on many things, Electronics, P.L.C.'s , Computer Programming and the list goes on. Your videos are a treasure trove of information for me. My latest obsession is small multi cylinder gas engines such as the George Britnell inline four cylinder gas engine. Could you possibly do a series on the building of such a thing? Of course there are such engines already for sale such as the Cison and Toyan brands but the actual machining of such a project would require many unusual setups and maybe teach some techniques. At any rate thanks for sharing your talent Joe.
Some of those brasses and bronzes are also leaded for greater machinability. One can see the lead particles with 20X optics if you want to check the bearings. Very nice machining of those parts. I probably would have started with a large-diameter rod of brass or bronze and accomplished the bored through holes first then worked off the centers of the holes to measure everything else.
I agree with you. Even his calling out that clamping on the bored part could collapse if not supported internally, was something that seems so common sense yet something we have probably done in the past and might do again in the future.
Another great video from the master. I’m getting a reverse shoulder put in wondering if you could machine it for me Joe then I would know what I’m getting . Thank you for another great video and all you do for this hobby.
Superb Joe, thank you. I will forebear to note that full size practice would be for a gap between the top and bottom bearings that would have removeable shims to take up wear over the years 😂😂 Your model will look superb with what will look like one piece bearings. Cheers
Very neatly and accurately executed - Sadly the material cost of your Jigs would blow my workshop budget :-) I would dearly love to have a workshop with similar facilities to yours. Having said all of that - your techniques and implementation are excellent - nice machining :-)
Joe, Very nice work. I've watched several of your series and I notice that your parts look clean and dry when you demonstrate assembly and fit. For cast iron parts and carbon steel parts, what do you do to keep them from rusting between video segments? In my climate the parts would corrode if I didn't oil them, but that doesn't show in your videos.
Hi Joe. About running a thread backwards and the tool upside down. I have figured out, that if you run the threading tool on the backside you don't have to turn the tool upside down as well. You still have to run the spindle backwards, inside or outside, thread.
@@joepie221 i'm sorry i don't quite understand. we are talking about running the carriage away from the chuck to avoid a nasty crash. I'm just a hobby machinist, currently without any machine tools, so i can't do any testing. I have no experience with turning internal threads at all. I either have the tap or change to one I do have.
Yes you're correct about threading with a LH tool on the back side of the part. With the spindle in reverse it will cut a RH thread. There are some limitations when working with any LH tool on the back side though. Long parts will interfere with the tool post, and if the part is large enough in diameter you won't have enough travel on your cross slide to make a cut. But for a good many threading jobs it would work just fine. This is actually the best way to clean up inside threads in my opinion...using a LH internal thread tool, right side up, cutting on the back side. It allows you to see the cut really well.
Am I reading this correctly Joe. The bearings are entirely supported by the wings? Seems strange not having 100% contact around the 'arch'. If this is the case I'd be tempted to babbit tin the outside and melt them into the base casting for 100% contact. That is an itch I would have to scratch right there. Exemplary machining as always Joe.
Hi Joe✋✋✋ You are really a perfect turner, miller!!! Thank you for your videos👍 they are technically perfectly processed and have a head and a heel.. they are just perfect!!!✋Jar. Pol.. C.R. - Central Europe
Hello from Norway. Maybe the solid jaw on the vice has a slight mismatch to the vice itself and could possibly be lapped to each other so it would not move under pressure?
That was impressive Joe. especially to a self taught hobby machinist who is happy to get a round bar turned within a few thousands 😂. You make it look easy.
Excellent job on the split journal. In my youth I worked on a ship that had similar bearings, that were about the size of a man tall to hold the main shaft as it traversed through a gland from the engine room out to the ocean. Seems like a big waste to mill away so much material, but I guess it's probably the easiest way to get the reliable precision needed. could probably lap away the sides when the round wears down... but it's just a model and won't get worn too much from usage. Happy Saturday!
Joe. I don't understand .. 6 mins in you mentioned the two weren't the same and needed 1/10th mm longer bolts on one half. Yet you machined the two pieces to a stack height ? What happened to the 0.0039" differences between the two blanks ? You appeared to be taking great care with very small cuts to achieve the "stack height" Which stack height did you use ?
I think you misheard what he was saying. He was saying that the difference in the thicknesses was so slight that it wasn't worth worrying about. With stock bolts from a store requesting a bolt that was that much shorter would get you a funny look from the store's employee.
Hi Steve. I understand your confusion, but remember the hole was done from under the tabs. So theoretically, the original thickness is the one to use. I did ultimately trim the base to match the other when I was done.
@@joepie221 As always, yes I did Joe. Not sleeping much, had some tragedy in our lives this past couple of months but we'll see it through. Watching your videos helps man and thats the truth.
The brass you’re using is most likely just a different color, doesn’t mean it has bronze in it. I know this because I worked with the manufacturer reproducing Schrader diving helmets, they varied in color, but they were all brass.
You are absolutely correct in that 'brass' does come in various colors. However, because this is a Stuart Models engine, based on their own descriptions, it is almost certainly 'Gun Metal' bronze. Gun metal is, in round numbers, 88% copper, 9% tin, and 3% zinc. There are some other slight variations, such as 'Leaded Gun Metal', in round numbers, 87% copper, 9% tin, 2% zinc, and 2% lead. Since Joe just finished his series on his deck gun, a quick discussion of gun metal seems appropriate. Gun metal was the alloy of choice for casting large guns (cannons) from deck guns to field pieces. Today, gun metal is used to make gears, valve parts, etc.
@@gottfriedschuss5999 Thanks. I am a bit brooder of knowledge reading this comment of yours. As I pour solid silver pieces I know that adding a touch of zinc or copper to pure silver makes it incredibly strong. The real trick is getting the mix properly blended in. The product eats up brand new files. I usually have to do the mix 4 to 5 times for nice strong sterling.
@@gottfriedschuss5999 That's called red brass. The first alloy you mentioned. The "Leaded Gunmetal" you speak of is ancient 1800s and earlier. There is gunmetal ingot where the lead replaces the zinc, and modified gunmetal, where the lead replaced copper and the zinc stays. Today's LGx-C all have Nickel as a mandatory add, 2% for everything but LG1-C. Gears are rarely made of any of those manners of gunmetal (and when they are, they're at the upper spec for nickel content). Both G1-C and G3-C have worse wear properties to phosphor bronzes. You are conflating terms and standards of antiquity as if they are current in the modern day. Don't do that.
@@ObservationofLimits Naming conventions are very problematic. For this reason, I prefer using unambiguous nomenclature when ordering or specifying copper alloys. I went to primary sources, e.g., the Copper Development Association, for my names. C90500, aka SAE 62, is called Gun Metal by the CDA. C90500 has a composition of Cu 88%, Sn 10%, Zn 2%, which is in the range of what I stated in my original comment. The CDA states that C90500 is also known as Red Brass. Note: The CDA lists Gun Metal as the primary name for this alloy, and lists Red Brass as a secondary name for users in the USA. However, this creates confusion with what plumbers know as Red Brass. They know Red Brass as C23000, ASTM B43, whose composition is Cu 85% and Zn 15%. There is at least one other alloy, C83600, aka SAE 40, a bronze, that is known as 'Red Brass'. The composition of C83600 is Cu 85%, Sn 5%, Zn 5%, and Pb 5%. C83600 is also known as Ounce Metal, because it is an alloy of one pound (about 453.6 grams) of copper, one ounce (about 28.35 grams) of tin, one ounce of zinc, and one ounce of lead. If one prepares this alloy exactly as Ounce Metal prescribes, the 'exact' proportions are Cu 84.2%, Sn 5.26%, Zn 5.26%, Pb 5.26%. C83600 simply rounds this to the above stated proportion, 85:5:5:5. In addition, the CDA states that C90500 is, indeed, used to make, _gears_ , valves, pump bodies, pump impellers, plain bearings, etc. As you point out, C90500 may not be an ideal material for gears, especially those required to transmit high torque/power, it is, none-the-less used to produce gears. Please consider reading the Wikipedia entry for Gun Metal and the CDA's pages on copper alloys. If you want to discuss this further, perhaps we should take that discussion off line. As for my comment about the 'brass' bearings almost certainly being Gun Metal, it is possible I will need to retract that statement. I am waiting for a response from Stuart Models. Their current catalog states that these components are 'Brass'. When I built this model, years ago, the catalog stated that these parts were Gun Metal. Their current catalog states the non-ferrous parts of larger models are, indeed, Gun Metal. I will post a follow-up when I hear from Stuart Models.
@@gottfriedschuss5999 I have been a machinist, welder/fabricator my entire life and have learned more about metallurgy today than the 55 years I worked with various metals. Thanks. I could converse with you for hours.
These model kits look designed to make you graft for it... They know what they're doing... You could use solder wire and trap it then mic it to get them gunmetal bearings to sit in them pockets... I like the videos... ☹🇬🇧
How did you manage to machine the recess in the middle bearing parts, after removing the upper/ lower half? I would propose to do this before removing the upper/ lower half of the bearing?!?
A tad tardy but you know I will eventually be here. I hope spring is treating you well old friend. This is kind of a large piece from what we normally see from you eh. I am really impressed with the quality of these small castings. As par for the course the smaller the harder to produce and these folks have pride in what they produce. I am always impressed with your way of teaching by basically talking to yourself. It makes the video seem like us being in school being talked to by a master. That would be you fella, LOL ! I do find that making these parts with a tight 90 deg transition with no radius kind of odd. Would a radius on the main bed be a better choice ? I must say that if I ever hear the term "un loosen" you will come to mind eh, LOL. Once again teach you sure impressed me with this post and from what I see in the comments I am far from being alone on what I have just said. Ya rock bud. From Northern BC Canada. I will promise to be back for the next installment of this neat build. Take care eh......Dean......
@@joepie221 I am sure we would have a great working and playing friendship away from the shop diving and just enjoying our existence here in the big blue ball in space eh. I was never so satisfied than when working in a job shop solving the mechanical woes man has created for themselves when 5 minutes of looking at a situation can save days in the long run. Seeing what we have created with our own hands has such a great sense of pride in it. AS long as there are no more than 3 of. I really dislike repetition eh, LOL. Seeing the smile on the customers face when paying their bill or simply fixing up a piece no charge is worth all the tea in China. Play time down under is worth far more than the tea eh, LOL. Onward eh Joe. Yesterday is done and we have a new and unused day tomorrow to do anything we want with eh, LOL. Take care bud.
I wondered that. Maybe it is something to do with Phosphorous ? ie. Phosphor Bronze. Google says .. "White phosphorus is extremely toxic to humans, while other forms of phosphorus are much less toxic." I guess "less toxic" is still toxic ?
Ah I noticed the precision hand surface grinder at work again ! When matching the two halves together - why not place a pin down the splits and slide into the hole. see if it matches.
I'm not a machinist, but if I would've went to machinist school there's nobody I'd rather learn under than you, Joe. Thankyou once again for no nonsense videos. Much respect.
That's a nice compliment. Thank you.
That's why a lot of us are here, this is Joe's machinist school.
I seen a lot of people machine up parts for model steam engines, so far your the best that I have seen ! I was a mechanic for 50+ years on industrial equipment small and big units , your the kind of person we depended on for custom parts , keep up the videos there great 👍🏻
Thank you very much. Thats a great compliment.
I am amazed every time how you come up with smart solutions to clamp something repetitively, it all looks so easy, but it is not.
thanks joe, for sharing your wisdom.
cheers ben.
Thanks Ben.
Thinking through the order of operations, for the new hobby machinist like myself, is often where I spend a lot of time. You make it look so easy. I doubt I would have thought to make the two halves out of two different pieces.
"If it knocks, use thicker oil" Love it!
Engineer here - not a machinist, but I love watching this craftsmanship.
Many thanks.
Best machining instructor on RUclips. Thanks as always Mr. P.
Many thanks.
Seeing the fixtures is priceless.
Thanks. In my opinion, Its the secret to success on these parts.
Another great example of making a special jig... love that small boring tool. Nice job Joe :)
Thanks 👍
I have always wondered why Stuart supplied the bearing casting material in such a ”wasteful” way! Now I know, and can put the slitting saw cut & shim idea in the bin, where it should have been in the first place 😂😂😂
Brilliant stuff as usual✅
I couldn't see any other way of using the material supplied.
Thanks for the tip on bronze dust. I didn’t know.
A respirator is a good idea.
Very well done. I have the PM-1 engine kit and have been considering using bronze bearings. This gives me ideas on how to do that. The kit will need some changes and those parts are extremely small. But steam engines have always used bronze or Babbitt bearings….not cast iron on cast iron. In fact, the wear elements are often called brasses. I am very impressed by how Stuart did this and how you machined these elements.
This could run for a long time without incident. Its a good design. The steam engine could benefit by this upgrade. Good idea.
Very ingenious way to get the results, making a long / short section from both pieces and milling the halves makes SO much sense. I would like to think I'd of thought of that, but this one may have eluded me, and my thinning hair would be pulled out
I hope thats how the kit supplier wanted it done. Not too many other options.
Joe, you should be a machinist teacher. Love how you explain everything into detail.
I guess I sorta am.
Morning Joe , I’m just about to start my bearings on my Stuart, you definitely saved me from messing up. Cheers 👍🏻👍🏻
Buzz
Many thanks.
Excellent video Joe! I was at a friends place today visiting and I saw an "Old Dusty Bench Lathe", that I didn't know he had. First thing I thought, I'd kill for that, second thing I thought, "Man, the things I could do", haha, thanks for all the videos Sir! Mike.
Mike, you should tell your friend you be happy to look after that machine for him. No charge. :)
Another great video. I learn from each video. It is a real joy to see you hit the numbers every time. They tell me I've got a long way to go with my skills. Thanks!
Confidence and practice. Stay with it.
BeeeeeeUUUUtiful…. Master Machinest, Joe Pi…..thank you for your amazing skills and techniques…..Mike
Thanks Mike. I'm enjoying this.
Joe , thanks again for making the really difficult attainable with a little thought and study ( plus a little experience 😉) Best to ya !
Back at ya.
Beautiful fixturing ideas Joe (from Scotland)
Thanks
Hey Joe, nice works on these bearings blocks. It fits the base perfectly. The line boring setup would be quite tricky at this scale but not impossible 😁.
I'm in the process of building a very similar 2 cylinders steam engine to yours, except it's from solid bar stock and a little bit bigger. It's a nice challenge.
Thanks for these videos
Best regards
Thanks for your tutelage, Joe. I don't do any of this stuff but I really get a kick out of seeing what some clever buggers can do, and then clearly explain the fine points to other clever-bugger learners! I'm so glad our world is not full of muppets.
As a woodworker I am amazed at the precision. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Glen- you know what they say about us woodbutchers, “ measure with a micrometer, mark with a pencil, and cut with an axe!” The accuracy of metal working tools run by a veteran is CNC quality, Joe can layout and cut with a manual mill and lathe with tolerance that makes computers blush, eh? 😂😅😊
You as well.
The old pattern maker that I worked with could achieve tolerances in wood that many machinists find it hard to hit, all with hand tools and a few power tools (jointer, bandsaw, disc sander). A mostly lost art now.
I'd like to suggest a video devoted to the expansion arbor trick. Just last night I had a setup that could use such a trick, wondered how you'd do it, and today here it is.
ruclips.net/video/J1RFTRzuAcU/видео.html Done.
Outstanding job, Joe. To see how those three journals are aligned perfectly were candy for my eyes. Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks. 2 is good, 3 is a task.
Nice work Joe. That material sure looked like bronze to me. Got a bit grabby when the drill went into the centre too😮
Gun metal? Gun metal is a cupric alloy that contains (sic) lead. The respirator remark is spot on! Dust that contains lead is NOT to be trifled with. Be careful, but not frantic, when lead is in the picture.
@@eliduttman315 I would be more careful if it was a Beryllium Bronze. Nasty Stuff! A Good trick to know about Brass in general, It drills Beautifully if you take a stone and put a couple thousandths 'Flat' on the sharp Edges. It keeps the drill from getting so "Grabby'. Just slightly Dulled. Works Great Been doing it for 45 years.
Thanks Preso. It did grab initially. The centerdrill pilot diameter was just too tempting. I snugged the quill lock for the initial depths on the remaining holes, then did away with the c'drill all together.
@@joepie221 Would it be more accurate to lock the quill and use the Z-axis for boring, rather than slightly snugging the quill lock and using the quill for boring? Many of us learning are on smaller benchtop / hobby-grade mills, that aren't as rigid and tight as a full-size knee mill. More of a general "best-practice" question, not specific to a relatively small bore like this one, where the cutting edge of the boring bar is close to inline with the spindle.
You inspire me to try more complex jobs , broken down into simpler logical steps . Great work!!.
Thank you. I once read..." The only true failure is the failure to attempt...not the failure to succeed " That really hit home.
JoeI
always like what I see with your videos. Each one is a valuable lesson on techniques and work holding. It's plain to see already that this going to be another Joe Pie masterpiece.
Steve
I appreciate that! Thank you Steve for the compliment and gift.
Very nice piece of work Joe. As a retired toolmaker myself I admire your setups, and of course, your results.
Thank you. I'm enjoying the journey.
As always I am impressed with your work and the techniques you employ.
Thanks again for sharing your time with us
Glad to do it.
Joe, @ 3:08 the egg came first. Palaeontologists have found dinosaur eggs, chickens evolved millions of years later.
If you had asked which came first the chicken or the chicken egg, that’s a whole other matter🤔.👍🏴
Wow, I would have botched that up. You're method is so much more efficient than my hack job would have been. God I love your vids! Parts always end up perrrrrrfect.
Glad it helped
Painstaking work methodically and beautifully done. Very nice!
I appreciate your presentation of the various machining steps which I find very informative. Thanks
Glad to hear it.
Very nice work. 3 dimensional thinking.
George from Indiana
Your just showing off now. Nice job.
Hold my beer....
I absolutely love watching you fixture! I am not making a steam engine right now, but your fixturing expertise is applicable to everything. In nearly every video I have a "That is so cool" moment. I will never catch up to you on skill, but you have helped me a lot.
Thanks for the comment. I'm glad you get value from my material. Once you see a concept, you can tweek it to suit your situation. Thanks for watching.
Hi joe from accross the pond, i am following th8s build with great interest, partly for the pleasure of watching a craftman at work and partly to pick up tips
Regards Nigel
Masterclass in fixturing. Thank you for such an interesting, educational and entertaining episode. 👏👏👍😀
Hey Joe Thank Thank You sir, There is not a whole lot that impresses me anymore, well this did !! You where meant and born to do this. Great job always brother!! Out
Thanks David. I believe that.
Know your numbers! Very good technique Joe, once again, I learned something. Cheers
This video required several viewings. Even then, it's still a complicated part of the build. Thanks for sharing.
To understand the logic makes it much easier to watch.
A new episode... A perfect Saturday night!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Just plain brilliant Joe Pie...really enjoy the fixtures and thought process
JOE I AM BUILDING A STUART D10 LIVE STEAM ENGINE AND THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED TO SEE. I AM A GOOD MACHINIST BUT YOU ARE A MASTER MACHINIST, A GOOD TEACHER, AND A GREAT VIDEOGRAPHER. YOU ARE DOING EXACTLY WHAT YOU SHOULD BE DOING. I WOULD LIKE TO VISIT YOUR SHOP SOME DAY. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!
If you are ever in the area, give me a call.
Another treat to come into the house to enjoy. I have spent some time in my shed cleaning a couple of vises as well as making a couple of things for my mill that I had been putting off for a long time. I really appreciate your taking the time to explain your rationale for doing things the way that you do.
My Pleasure.
Cheers from Oz. Might not be doing anything this nice but enjoyed your content for years now. Thanks for doing what you do.
Hi Joe, just wanted to chime in and tell how much I enjoy your channel. Your projects and your approach to machining is very interesting to me as an amateur machinist myself. I have a small "Micro Lathe" and a H.F. Mill and metalworking spawned from my need to make replacement R.C. Helicopter parts. One thing leads to another with me and I have pretty much self-educated on many things, Electronics, P.L.C.'s , Computer Programming and the list goes on. Your videos are a treasure trove of information for me. My latest obsession is small multi cylinder gas engines such as the George Britnell inline four cylinder gas engine. Could you possibly do a series on the building of such a thing? Of course there are such engines already for sale such as the Cison and Toyan brands but the actual machining of such a project would require many unusual setups and maybe teach some techniques. At any rate thanks for sharing your talent Joe.
My list of planned projects is fairly long, but I know I'd enjoy an inline 4 or V8. That would be time consuming and fun. Maybe someday.
Nice work, Joe! Great idea on the split bearing.
Ditto!
WOW ! Once more you have unloosened my mind. Incredible precision work.
Do you have a video on the making of that expanding mandrel? That’s one area where I’ve not been very successful at.
Yes I do. ruclips.net/video/J1RFTRzuAcU/видео.html
Fabulous work Joe. Your setups are solving a lot of my problems. Thanks. In ancient times the #10 bearing material was a very precise extrusion
That would make things a lot easier.
Nice well to get this tasks accomplished Joe.
Agreed. The segmented crank will be fun too.
Some of those brasses and bronzes are also leaded for greater machinability. One can see the lead particles with 20X optics if you want to check the bearings.
Very nice machining of those parts. I probably would have started with a large-diameter rod of brass or bronze and accomplished the bored through holes first then worked off the centers of the holes to measure everything else.
I look forward to each video. Your a great teacher and you explain each process very well.
Thank you very much!
I'm lovin this build. Thanks Joe.
Glad you like it. Its drawing me in as well.
Great discussion/demonstration/shop gem tips!!…enjoyed
Hi Chuck, Glad you enjoyed it!
Loving this series. Every shot is a Shop Gem.
I agree with you. Even his calling out that clamping on the bored part could collapse if not supported internally, was something that seems so common sense yet something we have probably done in the past and might do again in the future.
I understand this is a very powerful little engine when its done. I'm enjoying it too.
Pretty nice work there. Gotta give you a good feeling when a plan comes together like that. Thanks for the video Joe!
Yes it does!
Unloosen.... gets me every time 🙂
Truly a joy to watch you hit the mark! Can’t wait for the reversing gear.
That looks like fun.
This one is missing on your D10 playlist! Besides that great job Joe!
Thanks. #6 was missing too. Fixed now.
Did you cut yourself on that Endmill? It looks like you’re leaking some oil
At least he didn’t blow a 🦭
Another great video from the master. I’m getting a reverse shoulder put in wondering if you could machine it for me Joe then I would know what I’m getting . Thank you for another great video and all you do for this hobby.
Superb Joe, thank you. I will forebear to note that full size practice would be for a gap between the top and bottom bearings that would have removeable shims to take up wear over the years 😂😂 Your model will look superb with what will look like one piece bearings. Cheers
That makes sense.
Nicely done.
Thanks!
Simply beautiful! Thank you!
👍 that's some mighty fancy tool-making partner! I would not have trusted my skills and bored the bearings in place.
Very neatly and accurately executed - Sadly the material cost of your Jigs would blow my workshop budget :-) I would dearly love to have a workshop with similar facilities to yours. Having said all of that - your techniques and implementation are excellent - nice machining :-)
Like watching your procedures, Joe. Always educational .💡
Glad you like them!
That is coming along very nicely, & i do love you little shop gems.
Pass them on.
Joe, Very nice work. I've watched several of your series and I notice that your parts look clean and dry when you demonstrate assembly and fit. For cast iron parts and carbon steel parts, what do you do to keep them from rusting between video segments? In my climate the parts would corrode if I didn't oil them, but that doesn't show in your videos.
very good job Joe Pie,,thanks for your time
You bet
Hi Joe. About running a thread backwards and the tool upside down. I have figured out, that if you run the threading tool on the backside you don't have to turn the tool upside down as well. You still have to run the spindle backwards, inside or outside, thread.
Careful, one of those configurations will give you a LH thread.
@@joepie221 If the chuck and lead screw are turning in the same direction you get a RH thread. Right Joe?
@@joepie221 i'm sorry i don't quite understand. we are talking about running the carriage away from the chuck to avoid a nasty crash. I'm just a hobby machinist, currently without any machine tools, so i can't do any testing. I have no experience with turning internal threads at all. I either have the tap or change to one I do have.
Yes you're correct about threading with a LH tool on the back side of the part. With the spindle in reverse it will cut a RH thread. There are some limitations when working with any LH tool on the back side though. Long parts will interfere with the tool post, and if the part is large enough in diameter you won't have enough travel on your cross slide to make a cut. But for a good many threading jobs it would work just fine. This is actually the best way to clean up inside threads in my opinion...using a LH internal thread tool, right side up, cutting on the back side. It allows you to see the cut really well.
Enjoyed your explanation of why and how u referenced the parts. Excellent
Glad you liked it!
Am I reading this correctly Joe. The bearings are entirely supported by the wings? Seems strange not having 100% contact around the 'arch'. If this is the case I'd be tempted to babbit tin the outside and melt them into the base casting for 100% contact. That is an itch I would have to scratch right there. Exemplary machining as always Joe.
The fit traps a .001 shim tightly. I'm happy with the fit.
Great video and content as always. Cheers from Birmingham UK
First!!! You're a legend, Joe!!!
🏆🍾💰👏👏👏
Congrats.
Hi Joe✋✋✋ You are really a perfect turner, miller!!! Thank you for your videos👍 they are technically perfectly processed and have a head and a heel.. they are just perfect!!!✋Jar. Pol.. C.R. - Central Europe
Thank you very much.
Wow amazing stuff thank you 😊
Hello from Norway. Maybe the solid jaw on the vice has a slight mismatch to the vice itself and could possibly be lapped to each other so it would not move under pressure?
Looking good Joe. Cheers
That was impressive Joe. especially to a self taught hobby machinist who is happy to get a round bar turned within a few thousands 😂. You make it look easy.
Thanks. I've had some practice.
Excellent job on the split journal. In my youth I worked on a ship that had similar bearings, that were about the size of a man tall to hold the main shaft as it traversed through a gland from the engine room out to the ocean. Seems like a big waste to mill away so much material, but I guess it's probably the easiest way to get the reliable precision needed. could probably lap away the sides when the round wears down... but it's just a model and won't get worn too much from usage. Happy Saturday!
I'll fire it up once in a while, but probably not enough to wear it out. But, you never know.
Joe.
I don't understand ..
6 mins in you mentioned the two weren't the same and needed 1/10th mm longer bolts on one half.
Yet you machined the two pieces to a stack height ?
What happened to the 0.0039" differences between the two blanks ?
You appeared to be taking great care with very small cuts to achieve the "stack height"
Which stack height did you use ?
I think you misheard what he was saying. He was saying that the difference in the thicknesses was so slight that it wasn't worth worrying about. With stock bolts from a store requesting a bolt that was that much shorter would get you a funny look from the store's employee.
Hi Steve. I understand your confusion, but remember the hole was done from under the tabs. So theoretically, the original thickness is the one to use. I did ultimately trim the base to match the other when I was done.
I'm dizzy! Wow! Gee! Amazing-- as usual!
very impressive, creative fixiring👏
Thanks. Perfect for this application.
Thanks Joe very tricky very tricky Machining of you
Thanks. This one worked out well.
Lovely job Joe. I think I know what you did! Regards from Wales
You didn't watch at 3am did ya?
@@joepie221 As always, yes I did Joe. Not sleeping much, had some tragedy in our lives this past couple of months but we'll see it through. Watching your videos helps man and thats the truth.
The brass you’re using is most likely just a different color, doesn’t mean it has bronze in it. I know this because I worked with the manufacturer reproducing Schrader diving helmets, they varied in color, but they were all brass.
You are absolutely correct in that 'brass' does come in various colors. However, because this is a Stuart Models engine, based on their own descriptions, it is almost certainly 'Gun Metal' bronze. Gun metal is, in round numbers, 88% copper, 9% tin, and 3% zinc. There are some other slight variations, such as 'Leaded Gun Metal', in round numbers, 87% copper, 9% tin, 2% zinc, and 2% lead. Since Joe just finished his series on his deck gun, a quick discussion of gun metal seems appropriate. Gun metal was the alloy of choice for casting large guns (cannons) from deck guns to field pieces. Today, gun metal is used to make gears, valve parts, etc.
@@gottfriedschuss5999 Thanks. I am a bit brooder of knowledge reading this comment of yours. As I pour solid silver pieces I know that adding a touch of zinc or copper to pure silver makes it incredibly strong. The real trick is getting the mix properly blended in. The product eats up brand new files. I usually have to do the mix 4 to 5 times for nice strong sterling.
@@gottfriedschuss5999 That's called red brass. The first alloy you mentioned.
The "Leaded Gunmetal" you speak of is ancient 1800s and earlier. There is gunmetal ingot where the lead replaces the zinc, and modified gunmetal, where the lead replaced copper and the zinc stays. Today's LGx-C all have Nickel as a mandatory add, 2% for everything but LG1-C.
Gears are rarely made of any of those manners of gunmetal (and when they are, they're at the upper spec for nickel content). Both G1-C and G3-C have worse wear properties to phosphor bronzes.
You are conflating terms and standards of antiquity as if they are current in the modern day. Don't do that.
@@ObservationofLimits Naming conventions are very problematic. For this reason, I prefer using unambiguous nomenclature when ordering or specifying copper alloys. I went to primary sources, e.g., the Copper Development Association, for my names.
C90500, aka SAE 62, is called Gun Metal by the CDA. C90500 has a composition of Cu 88%, Sn 10%, Zn 2%, which is in the range of what I stated in my original comment. The CDA states that C90500 is also known as Red Brass. Note: The CDA lists Gun Metal as the primary name for this alloy, and lists Red Brass as a secondary name for users in the USA. However, this creates confusion with what plumbers know as Red Brass. They know Red Brass as C23000, ASTM B43, whose composition is Cu 85% and Zn 15%. There is at least one other alloy, C83600, aka SAE 40, a bronze, that is known as 'Red Brass'. The composition of C83600 is Cu 85%, Sn 5%, Zn 5%, and Pb 5%. C83600 is also known as Ounce Metal, because it is an alloy of one pound (about 453.6 grams) of copper, one ounce (about 28.35 grams) of tin, one ounce of zinc, and one ounce of lead. If one prepares this alloy exactly as Ounce Metal prescribes, the 'exact' proportions are Cu 84.2%, Sn 5.26%, Zn 5.26%, Pb 5.26%. C83600 simply rounds this to the above stated proportion, 85:5:5:5.
In addition, the CDA states that C90500 is, indeed, used to make, _gears_ , valves, pump bodies, pump impellers, plain bearings, etc. As you point out, C90500 may not be an ideal material for gears, especially those required to transmit high torque/power, it is, none-the-less used to produce gears. Please consider reading the Wikipedia entry for Gun Metal and the CDA's pages on copper alloys. If you want to discuss this further, perhaps we should take that discussion off line.
As for my comment about the 'brass' bearings almost certainly being Gun Metal, it is possible I will need to retract that statement. I am waiting for a response from Stuart Models. Their current catalog states that these components are 'Brass'. When I built this model, years ago, the catalog stated that these parts were Gun Metal. Their current catalog states the non-ferrous parts of larger models are, indeed, Gun Metal. I will post a follow-up when I hear from Stuart Models.
@@gottfriedschuss5999 I have been a machinist, welder/fabricator my entire life and have learned more about metallurgy today than the 55 years I worked with various metals. Thanks. I could converse with you for hours.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you for your continued positive comments. I do notice.
Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks for dropping in Harold.
These model kits look designed to make you graft for it...
They know what they're doing...
You could use solder wire and trap it then mic it to get them gunmetal bearings to sit in them pockets...
I like the videos...
☹🇬🇧
Just like checking main bearings on a V8 engine.
How did you manage to machine the recess in the middle bearing parts, after removing the upper/ lower half? I would propose to do this before removing the upper/ lower half of the bearing?!?
Joe, I always get a kick when I hear other Americans say 3/4 of 1mm! Don't you mean .75mm? Love watching all your innovated set-ups, very inspiring.
We metric guys say 1/2 , or whatever but mostly the coarser fractions, of a mil just like you imperial guys. 😢
Yet imperial decimals are used to define parts of metric values. Boggles the mind.
A tad tardy but you know I will eventually be here. I hope spring is treating you well old friend. This is kind of a large piece from what we normally see from you eh. I am really impressed with the quality of these small castings. As par for the course the smaller the harder to produce and these folks have pride in what they produce. I am always impressed with your way of teaching by basically talking to yourself. It makes the video seem like us being in school being talked to by a master. That would be you fella, LOL ! I do find that making these parts with a tight 90 deg transition with no radius kind of odd. Would a radius on the main bed be a better choice ? I must say that if I ever hear the term "un loosen" you will come to mind eh, LOL. Once again teach you sure impressed me with this post and from what I see in the comments I am far from being alone on what I have just said. Ya rock bud. From Northern BC Canada. I will promise to be back for the next installment of this neat build. Take care eh......Dean......
Thanks for taking the time to leave your comments Dean. I always enjoy them.
@@joepie221 I am sure we would have a great working and playing friendship away from the shop diving and just enjoying our existence here in the big blue ball in space eh. I was never so satisfied than when working in a job shop solving the mechanical woes man has created for themselves when 5 minutes of looking at a situation can save days in the long run. Seeing what we have created with our own hands has such a great sense of pride in it. AS long as there are no more than 3 of. I really dislike repetition eh, LOL. Seeing the smile on the customers face when paying their bill or simply fixing up a piece no charge is worth all the tea in China. Play time down under is worth far more than the tea eh, LOL. Onward eh Joe. Yesterday is done and we have a new and unused day tomorrow to do anything we want with eh, LOL. Take care bud.
Great job
Channeling the spirit of Eli Whitney, I see🤣
Another interesting video. Thanks. What is there to worry about with bronze dust? Are there any other alloys to be worried about?
Zinc perhaps? Reading another comment- lead could possibly be present if this is a gunmetal component.
I wondered that.
Maybe it is something to do with Phosphorous ?
ie. Phosphor Bronze.
Google says ..
"White phosphorus is extremely toxic to humans, while other forms of phosphorus are much less toxic."
I guess "less toxic" is still toxic ?
@@stevewilliams2498 I think some people take phosphore as a mineral supplement.
@@greglaroche1753 That's true, but those supplements are phosphate salts. Elemental phosphorus is very toxic.
This Dudes precision is astounding!
Ah I noticed the precision hand surface grinder at work again ! When matching the two halves together - why not place a pin down the splits and slide into the hole. see if it matches.
Great as always. Thanks!