You make it look Soooooo easy. Years and Years of experience, I know....... but man oh man it's a pleasure watching a master craftsman at work. Probably the finest steam engine machining on RUclips. Love to watch you work my friend.
My 2 bob’s worth on the 5/16 x 26 tpi is that it’s CEI, Cycle Engineers Institute from or alternate name British Cycle Thread. Thread form of 60 degrees, tpi 26, pitch 0.0385”, core dia. 0.2715”, tapping drills, letter J drill, 0.2756” or 7mm. Commonly used also on pre UNC/UNF British/Commonwealth motor vehicles, motorcycles, tooling, Bicycles, and model engineering and instruments and specialised fluid connections, in this case on the gland packings of the piston rods and valve rods. Your unique view of the engineering processes for these models is most enlightening. Take care.
One of the best things ive learned from you is to sneak up on to the desired dimension thanks for sharing your time with every one all these past years it has been greatly appreciated by not only me but many many others i am sure
Joe. the 5/16 26 tpi is BSB, Standard British Brass thread. Used a lot in England for most brass parts. Very common in Model Making. Regards from Australia.
Nice, Joe! Seems like a machinist like yourself would make the appropriate tool for adjusting the gland . Make a nice addition to the model on its stand. 😊😊
FYI Here in the UK 26 tpi is British standard bicycle or also referred to as British standard brass. All diameters are 26 tpi. Loving your model builds, learning allot, I much appreciate your videos.
There are various reasons I sent you the twin cylinder D10V, firstly I've seen lots of the single cylinder built by many people but not the twin, Finally, two cylinders, so twice the amount of work, and just to be annoying hehe. But it does make making jigs more worthwhile. You are creating a true masterpiece and I'm enjoying watching as much as you are enjoying building it. I know I included the BA taps and I thought I;d included every tap and die you'd need. Steve
Well, your inadvertent oversight was the source of much mirth so thank you for that 😊 And thanks for giving Joe so much to get his teeth into. I’ve really enjoyed watching him building this little marvel. Can’t wait to see it chuffing 😊
Hi Steve. I did use the tap you provided. Very generous. I'd be happy to return everything after the build is you don't have doubles. Except the model of course. :)
Further vicarious enjoyment - more eye candy! Great to watch Joe - super progress and more very nice jigs/fixtures, as well as immaculate work. I can sense your excitement as the end goal gets nearer. :)
@29:14 "an insignificant part." If it holds steam in, it's NOT insignificant. That makes it worth doing right. Good job, Joe. On the other hand, if people can see it, it's not insignificant either. Actually, the best way to determine the significance of a part is to hold it above the bench and let go. If it falls onto the bench, it's significant. If it hangs there, it isn't.
Hellooooo my dear friend. As always start off with serious scrutiny of the not blue blueprints and ponder them for a bit before sticking a toe into that boiling water beneath the pages of not blue eh, LOL. There you have a not forgotten fixture/jig to use again, modify in what ever fashion you need or want. Best buck ever saved and may be used again in the future. Love em all day long eh. HEY! Have you been messing with the time line ? This post has passed far too quickly eh, LOL. I must say that this build in particular is the most beautiful and involved of all the wonderful miniatures that are capable of making or driving their associate machines be able to do just what they are designed for. A good while back at the start of this great journey you wanted to make real parts from these miniatures. I am sure you haven't lead us astray on those words my dear friend. These are a vision of how the little machines produced the bigger and the bigger created the bigger yet. From the fire cracker to the Saturn 5 is a fair assessment don't you think, LOL. Like you I really like brass parts/thingies involved in a build are not just functional but with that special eye candy we love in these pieces. Well fella, you nailed another one tight to the wall my friend. Like so many of us we await the first bit of smoke or sound of compressed air happening to see the miniature machine shop burst into life eh. Take care bud, you rock my old friend.
Greetings. I have 3 more machines to complete before I contemplate a functional diorama. For now, the little monsters have private glass cases on a quiet shelf.
@@joepie221 I imagine everybody that visits would love to get hands on leaving all those pesky fingerprints all over them. I would be guilty of that for sure, LOL. They really are wonderful, Joe!
I've got to say, I'm glad to know I'm not the only one allergic to "metric", I took a machine shop class back in the early seventies, all "imperial" so I can at least lay claim to having gotten it honest! Thanks for a clear and concise sequence of operations.
Thanks Joe for another great video. Amazing your process and order of operation makes these parts truly interchangeable. I believe no need to mark each unit so parts stay together. Wow. Thanks again Joe. Looking forward to seeing this run.
Thanks for great machining footage again. Ive started to enjoy setups and those setup jigs almost more than the actual projects. this steam project ive followed since beginning and those compoments really look fabulous at this point. Do you keep all set up jigs related to projects?
A guy I know who has made a number of steam engines uses a silicone "O" ring rather than the traditional gland packing chord. This said wit the precision that you have made the piston and valve rod fits I don't really think you will need any packing. He also machines the pistons to take a silicone "o" ring as a piston ring. I've seen his engine run and they perform very well with this arrangement of "piston ring"
I use Viton o-rings for packing glands on all size engines. On small engines that are going to be display models I use Viton quad rings as piston rings. If you're never going to run on steam you can use Nitrile orings.
That free-hand milling between the two clamps was MASTERY! Show-off! 😂 Gotta say though, when you miced up the bar after turning less than 100% of the rust off the surface I winced! I must have OCD! 😂
Joe, it is interesting how you are increasingly allowing metric to creep into your musings on occasion. I live in a metric country (Iceland) and while it was 50-50 metric/imperial when I did my machine mechanic apprenticeship more than 50 years ago (so I actually WAS and AM used to imperial) I find the metric measures simpler and more consistent. Of course, one works best with what one knows and it can be hard to let go and adapt to something new. Slowly does it...
Many of us were really good at long division until the pocket calculators were invented. From that point we all lost a big chunk of our brains as that part that fell quiet did just that eh.
Hi Joe. Coming along nicely. You did skip over indicating the register made with the parting off tool. I was looking forward to seeing how you did that when it was such a short length on the shoulder.
Hey Joe, The Inch is defined as exactly 25.4mm and is therefore actually a metric measurement and things like 1in bar stock is also METRIC. Its all thanks to Carl Edvard Johansson the Swedish Engineer who invented the "Jo Blocks" or as they are more formally called gauge blocks. The Channel Machine Thinking here on YT did an awesome video on the subject titled "Origins of Precision." Its actually a pretty interesting story. Johansson's gauge blocks effectively decided the outcome of 2 World Wars by making it possible to make bits in one factory match bits made in other factories even if the factories were in different countries. Its kind of important that things like bullets made in one factory match the rifle barrels made in another. Likewise his gauge blocks made modern supply chain manufacturing possible. He really was someone who changed the world for the better.
Actually predates WW2, Henry Ford was having problems with having parts fit with exports to Europe and found Johansson. Made him an offer he couldn't refuse and brought him over as a Ford employee.
I was told an inch was 1/36 of the distance between Henry VIII’s nose and the tip of his middle finger. So they invented The Metric System because Henry got annoyed with people using him as a ruler! 😂
@@joepie221 Imperial?? I thought you Americans fought a war to get rid of the British Empire?? 🤷♂🤷♂ I checked the Stuart web site. I think those rounded cylinder end caps look better. 👍
The 5/16-26 tpi is not a metric thread. It is part of the model engineers series of threads for pipe threads. There are a couple ME thread series and all the Stuart Turner models use them for pipes and glands. Since you are making both parts you may, of course, make them any pitch you like.
I did enjoy the irony of the metric jokes, followed immediately by the math calculations, and your VERY FIRST STEP was to turn the 5/16 into 0.3125. 😊 Keep the metric jokes too though - you do you!
All of the parts look great. You are correct about the packing glands. Just to look like castings, you may want to think about blasting the outsides of the steam chests which were usually castings like the cylinders.
@28:43 "Of course you have to do everything twice". You do it nice because you do it twice. Actually, you do it just as nice when there's only one part.
As a metric-educated (french) guy that had to deal with imperial-sized electronic components (US) or quasi-imperial metric ones (Japan) all his life, I feel that the real shift is between fractional inches and decimal inches. I dont' really care if it is 9.525 mm or 0.375 inches but 3/8 inches do not ring much for me. Anyway, many thanks for all that lovely work - I wouldn't be able to do that...
After many years of making parts in inches my eyes see 3/8 and my brain says .375. After a while you memorize the fractions and it becomes automatic. It’s odd but that’s the way it works.
Hi Joe, Oh dear that 35 mm stock, just think of it as 1.375" it will make you feel so much more contented. And look at how easy those drill size v stud diameter is in metric. Nice work. Dennis.
Fantastic job, work and video as usual. Thanks. Are you going to build it with the reversing mechanism Are you planning for a boiler yet? It is acceptable to test on air, but a beautiful engine working of steam is the goal.
Hey Joe…. Love your latest video. I like the fast pace cuz I have been doing this for years. It may be a bit quick for folks just getting their hands dirty. The head design for tuff to adjust glands are an excellent idea. But I think you should make up a spanner. A). It keeps us entertained b). It prevents heavy fisted damage to a soft part with a punch and hammer. Sooooo you don’t like metric! LOL I was once approached by a person looking for metric dimensions for a Stradivarius violin. Long Story in my checkered skill sets. I explained to him that the metric system didn’t appear until that stubby chunky Napoleon adopted it 400 years after Stradivaris death! Starrett has gotten a lot of cash from us for imperial tools. The only metric measurement tools I have is a set of Brown and Sharpe Intramikes. Got them dirt cheap cuz they were metric. I got a lot of crap as a CNC machinist because our machines were German and metric and many of us were trained and tooled up as imperial. You get used to it when the idiots in the front office can’t understand imperial. But I share in your rash outbreaks when they throw about metric this and that. I also enjoy annoying these guys by responding with imperial numbers in lieu of metric numbers. I have a number of shrink rules I use for making patterns. Hell if I am getting metric shrink rules…. Don’t even know if they are still available.
That area is one where I wish I had prior knowledge of the stack. The lower cylinder cover had plenty of material to leave it longer for adjustment access, but then the cross head may have hit it during the stroke. For now, I have to ( somewhat) trust the print.
I liked your longer, more detailed videos but, you're the master of your domain. Still very enjoyable despite the feeling that you rushed through parts. Wait, did I just repeat myself with different words. LOL - great video series as always. Thank you.
Shop gem opportunity, twice in this video you reamed a blind hole. While the finished part did not end up that way, it was blind during the fabrication. I know, "drill deeper than you need to ream" but is there anything more you could add? Loved it when you poked the the metric stock with a stick! Coffee came out of my nose!
@@phikuchel6113 Hi there, could you enlighten me on why you hate brass threads, as against cycle threads ? - I’m this case, they’re both the same diameter, and thread pitch - the only variation is an extra 5 degrees of thread form angle. Without the use of a Shadowgraph, I’d be hard pressed to tell the difference . . . . There is also a Model Engineer’s constant pitch series, which includes 26 tpi - do you have a view on those ? Kind regards, Steve A.
If it makes you feel better, you could think of that 35mm stock as 4.13386 barleycorns instead. Or if you're feeling sophisticated, it's 15.5156 Ligne.
@@joepie221 Just postulating more appropriate measurement systems. I mean, if you're going to give us both inch and mm, you might as well go the whole hog and throw in some others. 35mm is 20.5665 millismoots, in case anybody was wondering.
🇺🇸📏🔢 It's quite interesting that the USA, despite being metric, still often converts measurements back to inches. This conversion back and forth between metric and imperial systems can be cumbersome and confusing at times. It raises questions about the practicality and consistency of measurement standards. Nonetheless, the precision and expertise showcased in videos like Stuart D10 - #10 on Meta Tech HD are truly captivating. Don't forget to explore the channel for more fascinating videos. 🎥🔧🔩
Joe, just a note about your reaming of the cylinder rod cover. When you first started the reamer it looked like it raised a little going into the hole. Maybe something in the drill chuck, a bent reamer or something in the tailstock causing the offset. Probably won't make any difference but might have caused an oversized hole. Unless my eyes decieved me. Thanks for the video, your time and expertise. Happy Victoria weekend in Canada or Memorial weekend in the US. Stay safe from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊️🇺🇲👍
I think the jury is out on this one. As a model, the cylinder outer covers are not really needed. I do like the industrial look of the castings. I also think you should top coat this puppy in a flat clear finish and blast the chests back to a cast finish. If you keep the OD of these parts per number and leave off the shrouds, the slight step actually looks pretty cool.
5/16 26 tpi is cycle thread it’s a British thread like BA, FYI over in the uk the Stuart v10 and no 9 have how to make books though written to make on a Myford lathe not lathe and milling machine.
When you turn a cutter upside down to chase from the headstock towards tailstock ....which way do you swing the compound rest 29 degrees??....towards tailstock as usual or towards headstock ????
Hey Joe! What software do you use to create those amazing assembly drawings at 21:00 ? I took the time to go through the comments before asking, and it seems like no one has asked this particular question. Thanks for your videos!
You make it look Soooooo easy. Years and Years of experience, I know....... but man oh man it's a pleasure watching a master craftsman at work. Probably the finest steam engine machining on RUclips. Love to watch you work my friend.
Thank you for the compliment.
My 2 bob’s worth on the 5/16 x 26 tpi is that it’s CEI, Cycle Engineers Institute from or alternate name British Cycle Thread.
Thread form of 60 degrees, tpi 26, pitch 0.0385”, core dia. 0.2715”, tapping drills, letter J drill, 0.2756” or 7mm.
Commonly used also on pre UNC/UNF British/Commonwealth motor vehicles, motorcycles, tooling, Bicycles, and model engineering and instruments and specialised fluid connections, in this case on the gland packings of the piston rods and valve rods.
Your unique view of the engineering processes for these models is most enlightening.
Take care.
Thank you.
I look forward to this series every week.
thanks. I do my best to keep the pace.
One of the best things ive learned from you is to sneak up on to the desired dimension thanks for sharing your time with every one all these past years it has been greatly appreciated by not only me but many many others i am sure
Not forgetting also how to un loosen things
Just be sure the part is cool as you sneak up on the final size. Thanks for tuning in. I appreciate every one of you.
Joe. the 5/16 26 tpi is BSB, Standard British Brass thread. Used a lot in England for most brass parts. Very common in Model Making. Regards from Australia.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Joe obviously doesn’t have a King James Bible.😂
Thanks Dave. Its a new one for me.
Nice, Joe! Seems like a machinist like yourself would make the appropriate tool for adjusting the gland . Make a nice addition to the model on its stand. 😊😊
it would.
'Hope you will come back' is a serious imperial question! the metric answer, as always is Yes!
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever." Thanks Joe.
Very true.
Your gradual embracing of metric is to be applauded ;-)
(signed) Rest Of The World
FYI Here in the UK 26 tpi is British standard bicycle or also referred to as British standard brass. All diameters are 26 tpi. Loving your model builds, learning allot, I much appreciate your videos.
Funny that Stuart didn't use the Model Engineering thread which would be 5/16-32.
@@johnfriend240 Agreed.
@@joepie221 Years ago I bought a model engineers tap collection, so I have 5/16-24, 26, 32 and 40. Comes in handy...
There are various reasons I sent you the twin cylinder D10V, firstly I've seen lots of the single cylinder built by many people but not the twin, Finally, two cylinders, so twice the amount of work, and just to be annoying hehe. But it does make making jigs more worthwhile. You are creating a true masterpiece and I'm enjoying watching as much as you are enjoying building it.
I know I included the BA taps and I thought I;d included every tap and die you'd need.
Steve
Well, your inadvertent oversight was the source of much mirth so thank you for that 😊
And thanks for giving Joe so much to get his teeth into. I’ve really enjoyed watching him building this little marvel. Can’t wait to see it chuffing 😊
Hi Steve. I did use the tap you provided. Very generous. I'd be happy to return everything after the build is you don't have doubles. Except the model of course. :)
Further vicarious enjoyment - more eye candy! Great to watch Joe - super progress and more very nice jigs/fixtures, as well as immaculate work. I can sense your excitement as the end goal gets nearer. :)
Me too! He’s as excited as we are to see this little thing chuffing 😁👍🏻
I truly am. I enjoy intricate, yet simple little things like this.
Chris, hope you are doing well, haven't see you post in a long time...
Best Wishes.....Dean
Hi Dean. Muddling along but age is catching up big time! Can't do as much these days but try to follow a few YT videos. All best, Chris
Best machining videos on RUclips, thanks as always Joe!
Many thanks for that.
@29:14 "an insignificant part." If it holds steam in, it's NOT insignificant. That makes it worth doing right. Good job, Joe. On the other hand, if people can see it, it's not insignificant either. Actually, the best way to determine the significance of a part is to hold it above the bench and let go. If it falls onto the bench, it's significant. If it hangs there, it isn't.
I must confess, there are no insignificant parts. I put 100% effort into every component. I like your saying.
Truly enjoying this build. Are you going to include the reversing gear?
Yes.
Hellooooo my dear friend. As always start off with serious scrutiny of the not blue blueprints and ponder them for a bit before sticking a toe into that boiling water beneath the pages of not blue eh, LOL. There you have a not forgotten fixture/jig to use again, modify in what ever fashion you need or want. Best buck ever saved and may be used again in the future. Love em all day long eh.
HEY! Have you been messing with the time line ? This post has passed far too quickly eh, LOL. I must say that this build in particular is the most beautiful and involved of all the wonderful miniatures that are capable of making or driving their associate machines be able to do just what they are designed for. A good while back at the start of this great journey you wanted to make real parts from these miniatures. I am sure you haven't lead us astray on those words my dear friend. These are a vision of how the little machines produced the bigger and the bigger created the bigger yet. From the fire cracker to the Saturn 5 is a fair assessment don't you think, LOL. Like you I really like brass parts/thingies involved in a build are not just functional but with that special eye candy we love in these pieces. Well fella, you nailed another one tight to the wall my friend. Like so many of us we await the first bit of smoke or sound of compressed air happening to see the miniature machine shop burst into life eh. Take care bud, you rock my old friend.
Greetings. I have 3 more machines to complete before I contemplate a functional diorama. For now, the little monsters have private glass cases on a quiet shelf.
@@joepie221 I imagine everybody that visits would love to get hands on leaving all those pesky fingerprints all over them. I would be guilty of that for sure, LOL. They really are wonderful, Joe!
Thanks for talking the time to make these videos. I really look forward to seeing them.
I've got to say, I'm glad to know I'm not the only one allergic to "metric", I took a machine shop class back in the early seventies, all "imperial" so I can at least lay claim to having gotten it honest! Thanks for a clear and concise sequence of operations.
Thanks Joe for another great video. Amazing your process and order of operation makes these parts truly interchangeable. I believe no need to mark each unit so parts stay together. Wow. Thanks again Joe. Looking forward to seeing this run.
This will be fully interchangeable.
The intricate - ness and accuracy of your work is outstanding! You've got the biggest fingers on youtube! Thank you for sharing.
Jokes about the metric system are only understood by 3/32 of the people...
🤣😂🤣😂👍
Actually that would be 12/127 of the population, to be exact. (See a few comments above)
Nah, it’s more like 3.14159% of the people. 🤭 (Which is a hair over 5/160, BTW)
The barge pole should be 3.048m long
I was thinking it was more like 1 out of every 25.4 people...
Thanks for great machining footage again. Ive started to enjoy setups and those setup jigs almost more than the actual projects. this steam project ive followed since beginning and those compoments really look fabulous at this point. Do you keep all set up jigs related to projects?
I sure do. In marked containers per project. Many are cross project applicable.
A guy I know who has made a number of steam engines uses a silicone "O" ring rather than the traditional gland packing chord. This said wit the precision that you have made the piston and valve rod fits I don't really think you will need any packing. He also machines the pistons to take a silicone "o" ring as a piston ring. I've seen his engine run and they perform very well with this arrangement of "piston ring"
I used Teflon rings on my last engine. Maybe some Teflon plumbers valve packing would work. Easily available.
I use Viton o-rings for packing glands on all size engines. On small engines that are going to be display models I use Viton quad rings as piston rings. If you're never going to run on steam you can use Nitrile orings.
That free-hand milling between the two clamps was MASTERY! Show-off! 😂
Gotta say though, when you miced up the bar after turning less than 100% of the rust off the surface I winced! I must have OCD! 😂
I did mic a rusty bar, but the mic registered on machined surfaces.
@@joepie221 I’ll believe ya. Millions wouldn’t 😁
Joe, it is interesting how you are increasingly allowing metric to creep into your musings on occasion. I live in a metric country (Iceland) and while it was 50-50 metric/imperial when I did my machine mechanic apprenticeship more than 50 years ago (so I actually WAS and AM used to imperial) I find the metric measures simpler and more consistent. Of course, one works best with what one knows and it can be hard to let go and adapt to something new. Slowly does it...
So true.
Thanks for the tap drill calculation lessen....good stuff. Parts look great !
ATB....
Can’t wait to watch your videos, your work is fantastic .
Great video as usual. I whole heartedly agree with your attitude toward all things metric.
I just don't see the fuss.
for second there I got really excited thinking you were going to teach us some long division and then out came the calculator ;) .. very cool parts
Many of us were really good at long division until the pocket calculators were invented. From that point we all lost a big chunk of our brains as that part that fell quiet did just that eh.
Great teaching video as always Joe, can’t wait until the next one!
More to come.
Hi Joe.
Coming along nicely.
You did skip over indicating the register made with the parting off tool.
I was looking forward to seeing how you did that when it was such a short length on the shoulder.
I did, sorry.
Beautifully done!
Thank you.
Beautiful Joe. The feature on top of the cylinder cover adds strength in real practice and are generally cast that way.
I was thinking about a twin cylinder brass head with some custom engraving. Jury is out at this time.
That would be awesome! A masterpiece of this quality deserves a makers mark, the creators’ signature.
They may be insignificant parts but they were well done. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thank you very much. I appreciate you sharing your time.
happy to do it.
Hey Joe,
The Inch is defined as exactly 25.4mm and is therefore actually a metric measurement and things like 1in bar stock is also METRIC.
Its all thanks to Carl Edvard Johansson the Swedish Engineer who invented the "Jo Blocks" or as they are more formally called gauge blocks. The Channel Machine Thinking here on YT did an awesome video on the subject titled "Origins of Precision."
Its actually a pretty interesting story. Johansson's gauge blocks effectively decided the outcome of 2 World Wars by making it possible to make bits in one factory match bits made in other factories even if the factories were in different countries. Its kind of important that things like bullets made in one factory match the rifle barrels made in another. Likewise his gauge blocks made modern supply chain manufacturing possible. He really was someone who changed the world for the better.
Actually predates WW2, Henry Ford was having problems with having parts fit with exports to Europe and found Johansson. Made him an offer he couldn't refuse and brought him over as a Ford employee.
I was told an inch was 1/36 of the distance between Henry VIII’s nose and the tip of his middle finger. So they invented The Metric System because Henry got annoyed with people using him as a ruler! 😂
@@andylewis7360 I thought the French invented the Metric System because they wanted to confuse the British by making everything a multiple of 10.
I'll stick with my imperial.
@@joepie221 Imperial??
I thought you Americans fought a war to get rid of the British Empire?? 🤷♂🤷♂
I checked the Stuart web site. I think those rounded cylinder end caps look better. 👍
The 5/16-26 tpi is not a metric thread. It is part of the model engineers series of threads for pipe threads. There are a couple ME thread series and all the Stuart Turner models use them for pipes and glands. Since you are making both parts you may, of course, make them any pitch you like.
And there's all those BA fasteners. Break out the 47deg threading tools!
It's 5/16 BSCY or British Standard Cycle which is 26 tpi
I don't believe he thought it was a metric thread. His trolling of metric snobs is legendary. IMPERIAL FOREVER!!!!!
@@andyb7963 Yeah, but are the threads BA or Whitworth? (47.5 deg. vs 55 deg. vs American/Metric 60 deg.)
@@bwyseymail cycle is 60°
Making progress. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks for stopping by Harold.
Your attention to detail is amazing.
Thanks.
Very good job Mr.Joe Pie,,thanks for your time
My pleasure
Beautiful work !
Always a pleasure to watch you!
Beautiful detail work as usual.Thank you,Joe.
As always very nice work. Loved the metric jokes! 😂
Stay tuned.
Joe you never disappoint you are so thorough as to what your telling us thank you for another great video of a great model.
Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated.
I did enjoy the irony of the metric jokes, followed immediately by the math calculations, and your VERY FIRST STEP was to turn the 5/16 into 0.3125. 😊
Keep the metric jokes too though - you do you!
Will do.
All of the parts look great. You are correct about the packing glands. Just to look like castings, you may want to think about blasting the outsides of the steam chests which were usually castings like the cylinders.
I'll assemble it first and decide at that time. Raw cast surface would probably look better.
Nice work today. Thanks for the video Joe.
Coming together nicely Joe. Cheers.
Hi joe . I'm currently making the d10 myself. Thoroughly enjoy watching your videos and even better to see you doing the same build as me .
Nice. Give me a heads up if you find an obstacle. My kit is one of the older ones released.
very nice job once again Joe, coming along well. It will soon be chooching! regards from Wales
Its got a good pace. Should be soon, but there are a lot of parts left.
Nicely done, Joe.
@28:43 "Of course you have to do everything twice". You do it nice because you do it twice. Actually, you do it just as nice when there's only one part.
Its normally, " do it nice, or do it twice", but in this instance, its more like 'do it nice AND do it twice" :)
Okay, that pause and poke at the metric stock made me laugh!
Thanks can't wait for the next video
Con rods for the cross head. Coming soon.
You make it look so easy! Great series.
Thanks.
Good stuff Joe , you make it look so easy .
Thanks. 47 years of practice helps.
As always another great installment on the steam engine build, number 4&5 holes looked very close to the clamp.
From where i live Metric rules..
They were.
As a metric-educated (french) guy that had to deal with imperial-sized electronic components (US) or quasi-imperial metric ones (Japan) all his life, I feel that the real shift is between fractional inches and decimal inches.
I dont' really care if it is 9.525 mm or 0.375 inches but 3/8 inches do not ring much for me.
Anyway, many thanks for all that lovely work - I wouldn't be able to do that...
After many years of making parts in inches my eyes see 3/8 and my brain says .375. After a while you memorize the fractions and it becomes automatic. It’s odd but that’s the way it works.
Great tutorial on the build.
Beautiful work , err , fun.
Now, which engine will be the power for all those belt driven model machine tools you have amassed ?
The horizontal single cylinder was the plan.
Nice work, Joe...hope you're not drowning up there!
All quiet for now.
Good work, many thanks for the tips.
Hi Joe, Oh dear that 35 mm stock, just think of it as 1.375" it will make you feel so much more contented. And look at how easy those drill size v stud diameter is in metric. Nice work. Dennis.
He just couldn’t bring himself to admire the simplicity 😂
@@andylewis7360 Simplicity is something I greatly admire.
Thanks JOE
Thanks for the video Joe
My pleasure
Fantastic job, work and video as usual. Thanks.
Are you going to build it with the reversing mechanism Are you planning for a boiler yet?
It is acceptable to test on air, but a beautiful engine working of steam is the goal.
Yes to the reverse mechanism, no to a boiler.
I like this one can not wait for the end result
Thanks. It should be a little power house when its done.
Never disappointed 😊
Hey Joe…. Love your latest video. I like the fast pace cuz I have been doing this for years. It may be a bit quick for folks just getting their hands dirty.
The head design for tuff to adjust glands are an excellent idea. But I think you should make up a spanner. A). It keeps us entertained b). It prevents heavy fisted damage to a soft part with a punch and hammer.
Sooooo you don’t like metric! LOL I was once approached by a person looking for metric dimensions for a Stradivarius violin. Long Story in my checkered skill sets.
I explained to him that the metric system didn’t appear until that stubby chunky Napoleon adopted it 400 years after Stradivaris death!
Starrett has gotten a lot of cash from us for imperial tools. The only metric measurement tools I have is a set of Brown and Sharpe Intramikes. Got them dirt cheap cuz they were metric.
I got a lot of crap as a CNC machinist because our machines were German and metric and many of us were trained and tooled up as imperial.
You get used to it when the idiots in the front office can’t understand imperial. But I share in your rash outbreaks when they throw about metric this and that.
I also enjoy annoying these guys by responding with imperial numbers in lieu of metric numbers.
I have a number of shrink rules I use for making patterns. Hell if I am getting metric shrink rules…. Don’t even know if they are still available.
That area is one where I wish I had prior knowledge of the stack. The lower cylinder cover had plenty of material to leave it longer for adjustment access, but then the cross head may have hit it during the stroke. For now, I have to ( somewhat) trust the print.
I liked your longer, more detailed videos but, you're the master of your domain. Still very enjoyable despite the feeling that you rushed through parts. Wait, did I just repeat myself with different words. LOL - great video series as always. Thank you.
It was the editing. I normally don't rush anything.
Thankyou 👍
5/16 - 26 is a British standard thread. The thread form is 60 degrees. British used Whitworth (55 degrees) in a lot of steam engines.
Its good to learn something new.
Joe, you are a joy to watch😎
Many thanks.
Shop gem opportunity, twice in this video you reamed a blind hole. While the finished part did not end up that way, it was blind during the fabrication. I know, "drill deeper than you need to ream" but is there anything more you could add? Loved it when you poked the the metric stock with a stick! Coffee came out of my nose!
Very nice indeed.
That is some nice machining...
Thanks.
I think you might have to book into rehab after using all them metric measurements and bar stock.
I may have to invest in a hazmat suit.
5/16" x 26 is a British Brass thread (whitworth form) thread
That is why he had a tap available then ?
I hate British brass threads. I much prefer British cycle threads.
@@stevewilliams2498 I was surprised to get one. Steve Bright sent it in.
@@phikuchel6113
Hi there, could you enlighten me on why you hate brass threads, as against cycle threads ? - I’m this case, they’re both the same diameter, and thread pitch - the only variation is an extra 5 degrees of thread form angle.
Without the use of a Shadowgraph, I’d be hard pressed to tell the difference . . . .
There is also a Model Engineer’s constant pitch series, which includes 26 tpi - do you have a view on those ?
Kind regards,
Steve A.
@Steve Allarton because
GREAT job as always!!
Hey Joe, are you sure you got that stock from the 35mm box? I could have sworn you were out of that and only had 1-3/8" left. 😁
I think the rust may have pushed it into the metric range.
Beautiful machine work Joe!
If it makes you feel better, you could think of that 35mm stock as 4.13386 barleycorns instead. Or if you're feeling sophisticated, it's 15.5156 Ligne.
Well since the digitus is 18.5mm, then it is 2 digitus, a very simple number to remember.
@@oldfarthacks That's far too convenient!
@@theafro What just happen ??
@@joepie221 Just postulating more appropriate measurement systems. I mean, if you're going to give us both inch and mm, you might as well go the whole hog and throw in some others.
35mm is 20.5665 millismoots, in case anybody was wondering.
Thank you for explaining the hex versus notched heads. Good thinking ahead for tightening and unloosening them, right?
I honestly considered a hex, then realized a wrench would be useless.
Great video, thanks
The "shield" that you mentioned going around the cylinder is called cladding. Older steam engines used wood under the metal to insulate the bore.
Thanks for the info.
🇺🇸📏🔢 It's quite interesting that the USA, despite being metric, still often converts measurements back to inches. This conversion back and forth between metric and imperial systems can be cumbersome and confusing at times. It raises questions about the practicality and consistency of measurement standards. Nonetheless, the precision and expertise showcased in videos like Stuart D10 - #10 on Meta Tech HD are truly captivating. Don't forget to explore the channel for more fascinating videos. 🎥🔧🔩
Its just a different language. Neither is more accurate or better in my opinion. Cool video on the jungle pool. I enjoyed it.
The metric stock bit was on point! LOL
There is no such thing as an insignificant part! :-))
It's really looking good!
Woody
Thanks Woody, I agree.
Awsome work
Joe, you know that you now have a moral imperative to make a spanner wrench. :-)
Probably.
British standard Brass BSB was a thread with all sizes 26 TPI
Lol i really understand your feelings about metric , i have the same with imperial sizes 😆
The funny part is that he needed a calculator to work out the tap drill size in imperial, but the metric is an absurdly simple subtraction 😆
@@JaenEngineering And that applies how to the print call-out?
@@JaenEngineering That is why the French went to the trouble of trying to make it the world standard, they are simple.
Joe, just a note about your reaming of the cylinder rod cover. When you first started the reamer it looked like it raised a little going into the hole. Maybe something in the drill chuck, a bent reamer or something in the tailstock causing the offset. Probably won't make any difference but might have caused an oversized hole. Unless my eyes decieved me. Thanks for the video, your time and expertise. Happy Victoria weekend in Canada or Memorial weekend in the US. Stay safe from Canada's banana belt.
🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊️🇺🇲👍
Very possible.
Exelaint as usual👍
I think the jury is out on this one. As a model, the cylinder outer covers are not really needed. I do like the industrial look of the castings. I also think you should top coat this puppy in a flat clear finish and blast the chests back to a cast finish. If you keep the OD of these parts per number and leave off the shrouds, the slight step actually looks pretty cool.
I may leave them off. I too like the cast cylinders.
Missed it by that much. You really are Maxwell Smart…emphasis on smart!
I admired Max, but 99 had my vote. :)
5/16 26 tpi is cycle thread it’s a British thread like BA, FYI over in the uk the Stuart v10 and no 9 have how to make books though written to make on a Myford lathe not lathe and milling machine.
When you turn a cutter upside down to chase from the headstock towards tailstock ....which way do you swing the compound rest 29 degrees??....towards tailstock as usual or towards headstock ????
99.9 % of the time, I plunge straight in.
Hey Joe! What software do you use to create those amazing assembly drawings at 21:00 ? I took the time to go through the comments before asking, and it seems like no one has asked this particular question. Thanks for your videos!