Joe, Have enjoyed this series and look forward to the next instalment. Any chance you would consider creating a video on machining one of PMR's model machines...perhaps the lathe or shaper or horizontal mill? I have one of each of these for years but lack the confidence and skills to start one. Thanks.
There is a very good chance, the next model I decide to build will be their lathe model. I'll pin this comment and lets see how many thumbs up that idea gets.
@@joepie221 - As you know, we all learn something from you on every episode. If you have the time to video and share, I'll be watching and learning. Joel...... 👍👍😎👍👍
I know Im randomly asking but does someone know of a method to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me!
The math was to calculate the values when using the digital read out "DRO". If you keep that in mind and watch that sequence one more time it will have more relevance for you. Don't give up on it. I got a little lost in the middle myself, but I got it just as he was done with his work sheet. Cheers!
Another great video, Joe. Always happy to see another old timer like myself passing on the tricks of the trade. Watching your videos is kind of a "bus man's holiday" for me .
That was very clever!.This project has been a wonderful teaching opportunity! near enough vs spot on is the difference between a professional and an amateur. Thank you for the continuing education.
All this time i have been setting up the eccentric in the drill press by eye to drill the hole for the set screw and i never ever thought of doing it like that ! Thanks for the video Joe and the fantastic tip !
Same thing here Brian sometimes you can get backed in a corner and make things 10 times harder. The shop i help out in now for some more shop space I find them not thinking things through making thier jobs much harder
Great job Joe , I have used this fool proof method to make eccentrics for the past thirty years .Also it was refreshing to see that you ground a tool with the proper clearances to cut the groove too many "machinist " jump to a parting blade for this and it's simply not the way to go . The problem here is that most "machinist " don't know how to grind tools , I have worked with my share .
Beautiful job. The finish is incredible. 12L14 is really soft, here they have brass and 12L14 (or equivalent) Once the model is run in, wear must not be a concern. Oil up! I was wondering how to set up to drill and tap . Thank you Joe, anyone building these models have a professional instructional video to refer to. You da man.
I’m watching another RUclips channel that is actually making this same engine right now. And they did the piston last video, or maybe 2 videos ago, and they had to kinda guesstimate at the rings. It’s real interesting watching two people make the same thing at the same time. And seeing the different techniques they use.
I just finished the piston and will post the video shortly. Subtle differences that enhance the accuracy of the part. Come back and take a look at how I approached it.
About the tiny Oil Cup at the end, It literally says "Scale 2x" under the drawing itself. The saying should be "Read three times, measure twice, cut once".
Hi Joe when I make an eccentric I've always carried out the whole procedure from start to finish in a 4 jaw independent chuck . Since watching yet another excellent video of yours , next time I'll start the initial procedure in the mill . So much easier and much more accurate. Many thanks for your excellent workshop videos. Best regards Brian
Hi Joe, thanks for your video. I have made at least 5 of those cams and still you manage to help make me better at it! Please keep the videos coming Rich
Hi Joe- great video again . I always enjoy seeing different ways to do a job. The pin alignment idea is pretty slick and will be used. Keep the ideas a coming. thanks
Perfectionism at it's finest! You amaze me and I enjoy the time you spend on setting up for the job. I can't wait for the next portion of the build. Be safe!
One thing to mention. The prints for this model are all 1:1 scale except for these parts. They made the prints for these parts 2:1 I assume so the dimensions are clearer. Messed me up until I realized what was going on.
Thanks again Joe. Another informative and very entertaining video. You make it look easy. I’d purchase this series if you offered it on a CD just to make sure that I’d always have access.
Joe you are a thinking man’s man when it comes to machining. Always enjoy your videos, and your shop is like a trip to Disney Land of machines. Stay safe ‘ Happy Holidays. BB
Joe, Thanks for the wonderful video. Everytime I watch your videos I pickup something new, even if I have watched them numerous times. For example, When I square up my tool to the work piece, I have always loosened the tool post instead of just moving the tool as you did. the problem with adjusting the tool post is, of course, the next tool I put in the tool post is out of alignment. Seems obvious now. Thanks.
I Luv Ya Joe !!!! lol You make things so clear and easy to understand you & mrpete and Abom79 are so helpful Thank You and God Bless and as always TWO THUMBS UP SIR!!!!
Nothin is more fun than making tiny parts on a big Lathe! Add to the dilemma when the tolerances are smaller that the capabilities of the DRO.. Makes for many "ghost passes"! I was tasked with making a stainless bushing with a 0+ .0003 OD, 0 - .0003 ID the part was .300 OD x .200 thick. Made on a 10" 3 jaw x 10' lathe. Some how managed to make 2 with no losses.. Yes i know, just a baby bushing! Lots of sweating though! Not nearly as complex as that tiny oiler you made! EDIT: I typhoid 0.00003 meant 0.0003. Now corrected. Thanks for those who caught my error.
Thanks for a very enjoyable video. Have You ever thought about "stand up commedy" as a "product"? Time 03:00 Centering by eye balling the distance using the sencitive indicator instead of a 1" one... Nice to see You also using that technic. Time 07:00 Needing 19 hands.... Quite a bit more than the 10 armed octopussy. Maybe a centipede having the flexibility of a monkey? Time 09:00 Why the shims when You will part off the excenter? Time 10:00 Just what I felt cold be done, and then You did it. Time 27:45 Not exactly the tool in every shop I think. Timr 30:10 Ten hands.... That's a progress from 19 hands... Time 31:45 What a rigging, several loose pieces to align. Brrr. Calls for a master.
Joseph, what are you using for cutting fluid? Being self taught I like Marvel Mystery oil with 10% clean deisel fuel. My issue is with aluminum, aluminum gets more gummy with my home brew fluid.
trim sol water soluble in my CNC and brushed on wd-40 for general lathe work. I used kerosene on aluminum for many years. Tapping is moly D or anchorlube for steel, tap magic for aluminum.
Joe, at 16:43 I'm thinking you want to subtract .061 from .314, then divide resultant .253 in half to put the left edge of your tool at the center of the feature.Then .037 left to center the tool in the feature. First ever comment on the tube from old marine, gunsmith, QC guy. Love your channel.
@@joepie221 Thanks Joe. My eyes told me that the tool would be too far to the left to allow for equal movement to each side, but the numbers prove you"re right.
I sure enjoy your nice easy approach to the tooling and depth of cut you use. It is like you really enjoy what you are doing eh. Others have mentioned the amount of adds you run. I am not fussy about any adds but they are a necessary evil so I do let a couple run as they are short and sweet along with making a penny or two for you.One day I may be able to monetise but they keep changing the rules making it harder to do so so I really don't care anymore. Really likin yer tips and tricks. The improvements in tooling and measuring have greatly improved over the last 47 years is amazing my friend. One day I would love to see a job done with a simple standard dial indicator. How about one of those my friend ?
Aluminum is a bit softer than the steel material. Under pressure the part will make an indent and will hold better with less force. Also as the jaw closes, the opposite shim will also compress to allow the part to "move" in the desired direction.
Joe, I guess an alternate would be to sweep the smaller eccentric until you got the lowest height reading....I'll have to experiment with this and see what kind of tolerances I end up with.
Awesome Joe, as Always! BTW, with your fingers VIEWED on screen, it is OBVIOUS that you need a ~MAN~acure, in Texas, they might call that a "finger job"!
Why did you use shims on your 4 jaw but then did not on the 3 jaw? Would the 4 jaw not close down on the diameter you had? If you ended up having to dial the pin so the hole was on true axis and clock the offset then why not just drill it on the lathe? Mine is a lot smaller on a Stuart S50 and very small offset.
'We' always called low carbon high lead steels just 'freecutting steel' in Britain. After seeing the oil cup video I made some small brass parts, 0.5mm hole 5mm deep was a lot easier than I expected (although I did have my face up against lexan guard with an x10 loupe to see what I was doing)
If you work fast or have fumbly fingers, gage pins are much cheaper should you have a mishap. Gage blocks rely on preserving their extremely fine face finish to provide them the ability to be "wrung" together with other blocks to make non standard lengths, Eg. .161" etc. Gage pins are often sold in large sets like .061"-.250" in .001" increments which makes things easier. The exception would be if you need a pin diameter who's radius is greater than the length/height of the step/shoulder, then a gage pin won't work as you'd no longer be measuring across the full diameter of the pin. If you don't want a complete set of pins they can be purchased individually for about $2 each. :-)
Have you used or own a Haimer 3d sensor? You seem to be really big on your dial indicator and rarely use an edge finder for setups. Wondering if a Haimer could replace several pieces required for your setups.
as for the reason the designer chose a 5-40 thread ; I would guess that they wanted to be sure that there was an adequate amount of threads in the wall thickness of that boss (3 threads).
Joe I have been wondering for a couple of hours since watching this part of the build for the first time now (out of sequence ) in February 21 and for the life of me I can't see the reason of using the shims in the 4 jaw when you hung the eccentric on the gauge pin from the tailstock. Obviously the normal reason is to stop marring the work, but in this case the full machined part (lathewise at least) was to be parted off and what was in the four jaw was surplus to reqirements. There must be another reason you did it this way because boy were those shims bloody fiddly. I truly can't see a reason other than it makes the part easier to dial in rather than going steel to steel as one would do in the normal way of dialling in a piece in a four jaw. Your comments would be appreciated very much. Going to go back and watch again in case I missed something lol
Thank you Joe, I have learned a lot on this piece today! One question however, what is the reasoning for using shims in the 4 jaw when the piece was going to be parted off and the material left in the chuck is effectively scrap? Or is that material for another part and you didn't want to mar it up?
Hi Joe, when chucking up the part in the 4 jaw, you said the rotational alignment isn’t important (I think). If a line was drawn through the centre of the off-centre hole and the centre of the stock, wouldn’t that have to line up with one pair of jaws? I guess what I’m asking is: should the offset be reasonably aligned within the path of a pair of jaws with the pair 90° to those being roughly equidistant from the centre? Thanks!
If turning a rectangular or square part in the four jaw, having the centerline's line up would simplify jaw adjustments. In this demonstration Joe only needed to cut the OD for the shaft boss relative the the shaft hole centerline. He indicated the top side of the pin and made his jaw adjustments at 12:00 position.
@@wwilcox2726 thanks for the reply! I didn’t know if having the jaws side loaded was a good idea, or if it was better to have the loading for each jaw straight down its path of travel?
@Jan Staines the advantage of a 4 jaw is to hold irregular shapes and so it's common to have some side loading of jaws. If the part heavily side loads a jaw you won't have a reliably rigid set up and shouldn't hog material with a set up like that.
Hi Joe I have copied your process of making the eccentric brilliant.for anyone making this part i would recomend using the mill to offset the journal,so much easier.But why did you use shims in the chuck particularly. I clamped the part directly with the jaws and it worked fine.I messed up the position of the undercut by the way and had to go again but hey.Keep it up Joe great work.
At 1.125" major diameter, and 750,000 RPM, the surface speed is 11.8371 mi/min. Works out to be 71.0226 mph. If that little sumbitch rolled by me at over 70 mph, I would be heading to higher ground!
Time stamp 4:14 "center drill". Why do you like it better? ruclips.net/video/Ot8wPGQW3JI/видео.html From the CNC Cookbook: "A lot of machinists use center drills for spotting instead of true spotting drills. Center drills are intended to be used to create a hole suitable for a lathe center. They have a 2 part tip that has a small pilot as well as the larger countersinking area of the bit. While center drills are available more cheaply than spot drills, they have some disadvantages. The small pilot tip is very delicate for example, and if it breaks, the drill will quit cutting. Not a happy thing if you’re running a job that involves spotting a lot of holes. Another problem is the hole angle of a center drill is typically 60 degrees. When spotting, you want an angle that is larger than the twist drill’s angle if possible. The narrower the spot angle, the more near the outside diameter of the twist drill first contact will be. If the twist drill’s flutes aren’t perfectly sharpened, one will contact the spot hole before the other and the drill will try to deflect. This defeats the purpose of spot drilling and can result in a less accurate hole. The broader angle of a true spot drill means the tip of the twist drill cuts first, which makes for a more accurate hole. Lastly, the web of a spot drill is typically thinner than a center drill, so it cuts more easily and with less heat." Also see www.harveyperformance.com/in-the-loupe/choosing-spot-drill/ I hope you will answer this because I am really curious why you like center drills better than spotting drill especially in light of how drills cut as is explained here: ruclips.net/video/GInCOcU5i5U/видео.html Thanks
Joe, I'll assume the set screw had to be clocked in that specific position for its interface to its mating part....if you were not able to use the .25" pin and get the eccentric lobe into alignment, what other technique could you use to make sure this set screw thread got aligned in the correct orientation.
use an indicator and sweep the high spot of the large diameter, then zero out your readout, and indicate the high spot of the smaller diameter. If the difference reads .250 then you are inline. If it doesn't read .250, adjust it and re-measure the difference. it will require more finesse but would be do able. also you could machine a blank that is .250 wide and use that as a replacement for the pin.
Actually you ultimately adjust the eccentric angular position for an early admission (within reason) to cushion the piston before TDC to keep the "float" loaded in one direction. This reduces/eliminates "clunk".
@@casey2219 Radial error potential indicating the top of the eccentric hub could be much greater using an indicator. You may be surprised at the minimal drop an indicator would show you during peak rotation.
I find it easier to locate and orient the offset while maintaining the parallelism of the faces if I do it on the mill. 4 jaw chuck movements can occasionally influence parts in an undesirable way.
Joe another grat video, One question how do you remove the burr from the bore after you have drilled and tapped for the set screw? This is some thing I allways find tricky. Graham
Joe,
Have enjoyed this series and look forward to the next instalment.
Any chance you would consider creating a video on machining one of PMR's model machines...perhaps the lathe or shaper or horizontal mill?
I have one of each of these for years but lack the confidence and skills to start one. Thanks.
There is a very good chance, the next model I decide to build will be their lathe model. I'll pin this comment and lets see how many thumbs up that idea gets.
@@joepie221 - As you know, we all learn something from you on every episode. If you have the time to video and share, I'll be watching and learning. Joel...... 👍👍😎👍👍
@@joepie221 I didn't know there even was such a thing. That would be awesome!
I know Im randomly asking but does someone know of a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Eli Gatlin instablaster :)
The more I watch all of you machinists, the better my wood turning becomes.
You lost me on the math but really what marvels me is the operation of machining the parts for this steam engine by you. You hooked me.
The math was to calculate the values when using the digital read out "DRO". If you keep that in mind and watch that sequence one more time it will have more relevance for you. Don't give up on it. I got a little lost in the middle myself, but I got it just as he was done with his work sheet. Cheers!
Keeping up with this project is now part of my life.
Another great video, Joe.
Always happy to see another old timer like myself passing on the tricks of the trade.
Watching your videos is kind of a "bus man's holiday" for me .
That was very clever!.This project has been a wonderful teaching opportunity! near enough vs spot on is the difference between a professional and an amateur. Thank you for the continuing education.
All this time i have been setting up the eccentric in the drill press by eye to drill the hole for the set screw and i never ever thought of doing it like that !
Thanks for the video Joe and the fantastic tip !
Most professional machinist I found on youtube .
I appreciated the order of operations to get this one done.
Same thing here Brian sometimes you can get backed in a corner and make things 10 times harder. The shop i help out in now for some more shop space I find them not thinking things through making thier jobs much harder
The pin trick was helpful I will definitely use it in the future. Thanks 👍
I am really enjoying this project. Lots of good tips along with some good humor. Thanks.
are you a teacher if not you should be a lot of kids out there need someone like you
Just my personal opinion, but I think Joe is one of the best teachers I’ve experienced!
@@johnferguson2728 Thanks John. I enjoy teaching and seeing the moment the lights go on.
This day is saved. MrCrispin and Joe Pie video in one day? Yes please!
I enjoy Mr Crispin's work as well. he is a talented guy.
I enjoyed this one, I’ve got to go back to collage to know what your were showing us
I absolutely love this series it's been one of my favorite.
Thanks. I'm having fun.
Hi Joe,
I did like the way you setup the part in the 4 jaw check…
Take care
Paul,,
Great job Joe , I have used this fool proof method to make eccentrics for the past thirty years .Also it was refreshing to see that you ground a tool with the proper clearances to cut the groove too many "machinist " jump to a parting blade for this and it's simply not the way to go . The problem here is that most "machinist " don't know how to grind tools , I have worked with my share .
Beautiful job.
The finish is incredible. 12L14 is really soft, here they have brass and 12L14 (or equivalent)
Once the model is run in, wear must not be a concern.
Oil up!
I was wondering how to set up to drill and tap .
Thank you Joe, anyone building these models have a professional instructional video to refer to.
You da man.
Great content Joe. I always pick up at a handful of useful tidbits from your videos. Much appreciated.
That hurt my head a little when you used the pin to clock the set screw, but that made absolute sense! I like it!
Love this series Joe!!
Joe, it's like Christmas morning every time you put up a video. Thank you so much. Regards Gareth in Wales
Thanks. I'm glad you enjoy them.
I’m watching another RUclips channel that is actually making this same engine right now. And they did the piston last video, or maybe 2 videos ago, and they had to kinda guesstimate at the rings. It’s real interesting watching two people make the same thing at the same time. And seeing the different techniques they use.
I just finished the piston and will post the video shortly. Subtle differences that enhance the accuracy of the part. Come back and take a look at how I approached it.
Filing away the razor blade trick...thanks Joe
About the tiny Oil Cup at the end, It literally says "Scale 2x" under the drawing itself. The saying should be "Read three times, measure twice, cut once".
It already is.
Well made would be a greate understatement. Lots to learn, lots to just enjoy and admire.
Once again I learned a new way to use the pins. Joe I usually make the strap a little tight and lap it in for a beautiful fit!
I'm looking forward to doing the strap and connecting rod.
Really common sense, but I am glad you explained it. Another truly great video on machining...
Another gem Joe, more magic - thanks as always. Much enjoyed.
Hi Joe, find myself having to make two eccentric s and went looking for a you tuber to teach and you are the man. Many thanks
.... Oh NICE .... just love watching you work .... logical ... concise ... ACCURATE !!
Thank you very much!
Hi Joe when I make an eccentric I've always carried out the whole procedure from start to finish in a 4 jaw independent chuck . Since watching yet another excellent video of yours , next time I'll start the initial procedure in the mill . So much easier and much more accurate. Many thanks for your excellent workshop videos. Best regards Brian
Thanks Brian.
Hi Joe, thanks for your video. I have made at least 5 of those cams and still you manage to help make me better at it!
Please keep the videos coming Rich
Will do!
I’m learning so much from your videos. So well presented & very enjoyable to watch. A master of your craft!
19:40 Every tool has a hammer side, even in Joe’s shop😁🏴
Loving these videos. Keep up the good work Joe.
I've been wondering what you have been up to. Time to refill my coffee, sit back and enjoy. Thanks Joe !
Hi Joe- great video again . I always enjoy seeing different ways to do a job. The pin alignment idea is pretty slick and will be used. Keep the ideas a coming. thanks
Perfectionism at it's finest! You amaze me and I enjoy the time you spend on setting up for the job. I can't wait for the next portion of the build. Be safe!
Thank you very much!
Great video thanks a lot Joe! I'm always learning something watching you
Great work, great tips and tricks.
Thanks very much.
Love watching your work Joe.
Nice way to find the two center lines Joe π Thanks
Pretty reliable method.
once again Joe its seem everything is come together with the engine and can't wait to see it working . and thanks for the video ,am learning a lot.
Thanks for the bonus Oil Cup comparison at the end. I see It pays to share a comment on this channel. (Big Smile)
It was something I should have shown. It was a good suggestion.
One thing to mention. The prints for this model are all 1:1 scale except for these parts. They made the prints for these parts 2:1 I assume so the dimensions are clearer. Messed me up until I realized what was going on.
Thanks for the video Joe.
Thanks, Joe. Excellent content, as usual !!
Thanks again Joe. Another informative and very entertaining video. You make it look easy. I’d purchase this series if you offered it on a CD just to make sure that I’d always have access.
I'd second that...
@@amicidavinci Third.
Joe you are a thinking man’s man when it comes to machining. Always enjoy your videos, and your shop is like a trip to Disney Land of machines. Stay safe ‘ Happy Holidays. BB
Thanks. I enjoy being here. Happy Holidays to you as well.
Joe,
Thanks for the wonderful video. Everytime I watch your videos I pickup something new, even if I have watched them numerous times. For example, When I square up my tool to the work piece, I have always loosened the tool post instead of just moving the tool as you did. the problem with adjusting the tool post is, of course, the next tool I put in the tool post is out of alignment. Seems obvious now. Thanks.
Its nice to watch a part made, but I like to include things you can take away and build on. Thanks for the comment.
I Luv Ya Joe !!!! lol You make things so clear and easy to understand you & mrpete and Abom79 are so helpful Thank You and God Bless and as always TWO THUMBS UP SIR!!!!
Great work Joe, I've been out of pocket so I have to go back and play catch up and the ending looks like that part was a treat.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great stuff Joe.
Nothin is more fun than making tiny parts on a big Lathe! Add to the dilemma when the tolerances are smaller that the capabilities of the DRO.. Makes for many "ghost passes"! I was tasked with making a stainless bushing with a 0+ .0003 OD, 0 - .0003 ID the part was .300 OD x .200 thick. Made on a 10" 3 jaw x 10' lathe. Some how managed to make 2 with no losses.. Yes i know, just a baby bushing! Lots of sweating though! Not nearly as complex as that tiny oiler you made! EDIT: I typhoid 0.00003 meant 0.0003. Now corrected. Thanks for those who caught my error.
Wait, a tolerance of 30 millionths of an inch? How is that possible?
You're sure you don't have an extra 0 there? I could see 3 tenths, not so much .3 tenths.
How did you measure that? Something that small would also need a climate controlled environment.
@@totensiebush Yes! i have an extra 0 in there! I meant to type 3 tenths!
@@jawadibrahim2367 I screwed up typing, I meant 3 tenths! not .3 Tenths.
I can't wait for the next video. Best regards from Poland.
Thanks for the enthusiasm. I'm enjoying this too.
Another great video Joe, thank you!
Another great video Joe thankyou for your contributions 👍👍👍😊
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video, lots of awesome little tricks!
Great video and explanations Joe, thank you!
Some interesting shutter speed effects here - the eccentric offset often makes it look like the part is going backwards on the lathe!
Thanks for a very enjoyable video. Have You ever thought about "stand up commedy" as a "product"?
Time 03:00 Centering by eye balling the distance using the sencitive indicator instead of a 1" one... Nice to see You also using that technic.
Time 07:00 Needing 19 hands.... Quite a bit more than the 10 armed octopussy. Maybe a centipede having the flexibility of a monkey?
Time 09:00 Why the shims when You will part off the excenter?
Time 10:00 Just what I felt cold be done, and then You did it.
Time 27:45 Not exactly the tool in every shop I think.
Timr 30:10 Ten hands.... That's a progress from 19 hands...
Time 31:45 What a rigging, several loose pieces to align. Brrr. Calls for a master.
It is very spooky that it made total sense to me on the concentric wow!!!!!!
Joseph, what are you using for cutting fluid? Being self taught I like Marvel Mystery oil with 10% clean deisel fuel.
My issue is with aluminum, aluminum gets more gummy with my home brew fluid.
trim sol water soluble in my CNC and brushed on wd-40 for general lathe work. I used kerosene on aluminum for many years. Tapping is moly D or anchorlube for steel, tap magic for aluminum.
@@joepie221 Took notes, on the grocery list, thank you as always
👍 learned me something again. Thanks Joe.
Lessons, lessons, lessons.....thank you
Good Morning Chuck. Thanks for stopping by.
@JoePieczynski
Why did you mark the two red dots on the jaws of your lathe?
I’m guessing he uses that to remind him which two jaws to open, and which two to not open when chucking multiple times.
I'd like to hear Joe's answer to that question also.
Or which jaws to not open. I'm interested in hearing the reply.
Joe, at 16:43 I'm thinking you want to subtract .061 from .314, then divide resultant .253 in half to put the left edge of your tool at the center of the feature.Then .037 left to center the tool in the feature. First ever comment on the tube from old marine, gunsmith, QC guy. Love your channel.
Sooner or later, you will need to factor in the width of the tool regardless of the approach. My way, thats already done.
@@joepie221 Thanks Joe. My eyes told me that the tool would be too far to the left to allow for equal movement to each side, but the numbers prove you"re right.
Thoroughly enjoyed.
Another job well done....!
Joe your a gold mine......have you considered a book id buy it
Joe I hope you plan on running it :-)
I sure enjoy your nice easy approach to the tooling and depth of cut you use. It is like you really enjoy what you are doing eh. Others have mentioned the amount of adds you run. I am not fussy about any adds but they are a necessary evil so I do let a couple run as they are short and sweet along with making a penny or two for you.One day I may be able to monetise but they keep changing the rules making it harder to do so so I really don't care anymore. Really likin yer tips and tricks. The improvements in tooling and measuring have greatly improved over the last 47 years is amazing my friend. One day I would love to see a job done with a simple standard dial indicator. How about one of those my friend ?
Awesome vid, really enjoy watching and learning from a great machinist!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks, Joe. Much respect.
Mating part is the eccentric strap?
The correct name is the eccentric sheave, and the enclosing part is the eccentric strap.
Why does the drawing say differently?
I've mostly heard it called 12L14 rather than Ledloy, I hadn't heard the brand name before but expected it to be pretty much the same.
Thanks Joe
Hey Joe, why do you need the shims in the 4 jaw? Why not just tighten right down on the stock?
I was curious about that also.
Maintain surface finish is why I would do it
Aluminum is a bit softer than the steel material. Under pressure the part will make an indent and will hold better with less force. Also as the jaw closes, the opposite shim will also compress to allow the part to "move" in the desired direction.
I bet its because the part slides better.
Thanks again Joe.😎
Joe, I guess an alternate would be to sweep the smaller eccentric until you got the lowest height reading....I'll have to experiment with this and see what kind of tolerances I end up with.
The solid hit will be closer. the top of an arc has minimal drop during rotation.
Thanks for sharing. Great video.
Awesome Joe, as Always!
BTW, with your fingers VIEWED on screen, it is OBVIOUS that you need a ~MAN~acure, in Texas, they might call that a "finger job"!
He's waiting for one of his spiders to return the favor. :)
Why did you use shims on your 4 jaw but then did not on the 3 jaw? Would the 4 jaw not close down on the diameter you had? If you ended up having to dial the pin so the hole was on true axis and clock the offset then why not just drill it on the lathe? Mine is a lot smaller on a Stuart S50 and very small offset.
At 19:37, Jerry Rosa was right. "Everything's a hammer."
Nice set up tips! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
'We' always called low carbon high lead steels just 'freecutting steel' in Britain.
After seeing the oil cup video I made some small brass parts, 0.5mm hole 5mm deep was a lot easier than I expected (although I did have my face up against lexan guard with an x10 loupe to see what I was doing)
Beautiful work as always Joe. A quick question on aligning the eccentric center for the set screw, why use a gauge pin instead of a gauge block?
Either would work, its just faster for me to grab the exact size pin.
If you work fast or have fumbly fingers, gage pins are much cheaper should you have a mishap. Gage blocks rely on preserving their extremely fine face finish to provide them the ability to be "wrung" together with other blocks to make non standard lengths,
Eg. .161" etc. Gage pins are often sold in large sets like .061"-.250"
in .001" increments which makes things easier. The exception would be if you need a pin diameter who's radius is greater than the length/height of the step/shoulder, then a gage pin won't work as you'd no longer be measuring across the full diameter of the pin. If you don't want a complete set of pins they can be purchased individually for about $2 each. :-)
Have you used or own a Haimer 3d sensor? You seem to be really big on your dial indicator and rarely use an edge finder for setups. Wondering if a Haimer could replace several pieces required for your setups.
as for the reason the designer chose a 5-40 thread ; I would guess that they wanted to be sure that there was an adequate amount of threads in the wall thickness of that boss (3 threads).
You may be right.
Joe I have been wondering for a couple of hours since watching this part of the build for the first time now (out of sequence ) in February 21 and for the life of me I can't see the reason of using the shims in the 4 jaw when you hung the eccentric on the gauge pin from the tailstock. Obviously the normal reason is to stop marring the work, but in this case the full machined part (lathewise at least) was to be parted off and what was in the four jaw was surplus to reqirements. There must be another reason you did it this way because boy were those shims bloody fiddly. I truly can't see a reason other than it makes the part easier to dial in rather than going steel to steel as one would do in the normal way of dialling in a piece in a four jaw. Your comments would be appreciated very much. Going to go back and watch again in case I missed something lol
Thank you Joe, I have learned a lot on this piece today! One question however, what is the reasoning for using shims in the 4 jaw when the piece was going to be parted off and the material left in the chuck is effectively scrap? Or is that material for another part and you didn't want to mar it up?
Possibly so you can “feel” when the chuck jaw just makes contact?
That's a great question, I hope Joe answers it. Several people have asked the same question.
Looks great!
Can't wait for the next one.
Hi Joe, when chucking up the part in the 4 jaw, you said the rotational alignment isn’t important (I think). If a line was drawn through the centre of the off-centre hole and the centre of the stock, wouldn’t that have to line up with one pair of jaws? I guess what I’m asking is: should the offset be reasonably aligned within the path of a pair of jaws with the pair 90° to those being roughly equidistant from the centre?
Thanks!
If turning a rectangular or square part in the four jaw, having the centerline's line up would simplify jaw adjustments. In this demonstration Joe only needed to cut the OD for the shaft boss relative the the shaft hole centerline. He indicated the top side of the pin and made his jaw adjustments at 12:00 position.
@@wwilcox2726 thanks for the reply! I didn’t know if having the jaws side loaded was a good idea, or if it was better to have the loading for each jaw straight down its path of travel?
@Jan Staines the advantage of a 4 jaw is to hold irregular shapes and so it's common to have some side loading of jaws. If the part heavily side loads a jaw you won't have a reliably rigid set up and shouldn't hog material with a set up like that.
@@wwilcox2726 thanks for the info! 👍
Hi Joe
I have copied your process of making the eccentric brilliant.for anyone making this part i would recomend using the mill to offset the journal,so much easier.But why did you use shims in the chuck particularly.
I clamped the part directly with the jaws and it worked fine.I messed up the position of the undercut by the way and had to go again but hey.Keep it up Joe great work.
I used the shims so any damage was to the shims and not the part.
700,000 - 800,000 RPM? Hard to believe that's how fast it turns.
Dikky Bee If he thinks it will be spinning that fast then it must be good shit he is smoking
700, 800, 1000
At 1.125" major diameter, and 750,000 RPM, the surface speed is 11.8371 mi/min. Works out to be 71.0226 mph. If that little sumbitch rolled by me at over 70 mph, I would be heading to higher ground!
Time stamp 4:14 "center drill". Why do you like it better?
ruclips.net/video/Ot8wPGQW3JI/видео.html
From the CNC Cookbook:
"A lot of machinists use center drills for spotting instead of true spotting drills. Center drills are intended to be used to create a hole suitable for a lathe center. They have a 2 part tip that has a small pilot as well as the larger countersinking area of the bit. While center drills are available more cheaply than spot drills, they have some disadvantages. The small pilot tip is very delicate for example, and if it breaks, the drill will quit cutting. Not a happy thing if you’re running a job that involves spotting a lot of holes. Another problem is the hole angle of a center drill is typically 60 degrees. When spotting, you want an angle that is larger than the twist drill’s angle if possible. The narrower the spot angle, the more near the outside diameter of the twist drill first contact will be. If the twist drill’s flutes aren’t perfectly sharpened, one will contact the spot hole before the other and the drill will try to deflect. This defeats the purpose of spot drilling and can result in a less accurate hole. The broader angle of a true spot drill means the tip of the twist drill cuts first, which makes for a more accurate hole. Lastly, the web of a spot drill is typically thinner than a center drill, so it cuts more easily and with less heat."
Also see www.harveyperformance.com/in-the-loupe/choosing-spot-drill/
I hope you will answer this because I am really curious why you like center drills better than spotting drill especially in light of how drills cut as is explained here: ruclips.net/video/GInCOcU5i5U/видео.html
Thanks
Joe, I'll assume the set screw had to be clocked in that specific position for its interface to its mating part....if you were not able to use the .25" pin and get the eccentric lobe into alignment, what other technique could you use to make sure this set screw thread got aligned in the correct orientation.
use an indicator and sweep the high spot of the large diameter, then zero out your readout, and indicate the high spot of the smaller diameter. If the difference reads .250 then you are inline. If it doesn't read .250, adjust it and re-measure the difference. it will require more finesse but would be do able. also you could machine a blank that is .250 wide and use that as a replacement for the pin.
Actually you ultimately adjust the eccentric angular position for an early admission (within reason) to cushion the piston before TDC to keep the "float" loaded in one direction. This reduces/eliminates "clunk".
You can also use a very small diameter pin suspended across the vise jaws and let the part “hang” evenly. Not super accurate but it will work.
@@kgee2111 That puts the set screw hole on the wrong side since the weight goes to the low side doing that.
@@casey2219 Radial error potential indicating the top of the eccentric hub could be much greater using an indicator. You may be surprised at the minimal drop an indicator would show you during peak rotation.
Any reason you didn’t make the entire part in the lathe?
I find it easier to locate and orient the offset while maintaining the parallelism of the faces if I do it on the mill. 4 jaw chuck movements can occasionally influence parts in an undesirable way.
Joe another grat video, One question how do you remove the burr from the bore after you have drilled and tapped for the set screw? This is some thing I allways find tricky.
Graham
Pass the reamer back through it.