@@TheBTRGarage Lots of vehicles require the dash to be dropped. You got lucky if you don’t need to drop the dash. My ‘01 Ranger required a dash drop as well…not a fun job 😅
thank you for this video. My 08 F150 is leaking coolant and I suspect the heater core. Have to make a road trip tomorrow and don't have time to replace it (not easy on my truck). I'm going to try this bypass. I figured this was the way to do it but guess I just needed some reassurance. LOL Thanks again!
Thanks bud, I'm doing this right now on my 5.8l 93 e150. I wanted to Salute you because everything I read (it was a bunch) said locate the heater core & cut the two hoses and join there (at the core) this way is more efficient.
Great idea. My '98 econoline needs a heater core, but I've been driving without heat for a while anyway. So, I'll use your advice & simply connect the hoses. Thanks for that.
On the 1st Gen Explorer Sport Trac, maybe for all 4.0 SOHC engines the factory hoses that go into the firewall(passenger side) will need a 5/8 coupler which you can get at Autozone or other auto parts stores. Also get about 4-6" of any kind of tubing to plug up the open ports after removing the hoses from the intake and outtake or you will have the excess coolant from the heater core splashing around making a mess unless you are okay with that, eventually that will go away. I had extra clear tubing from aquarium pumps to use, if the parts store doesn't have the tubing you need then go to a Lowe's/HomeDepot and get the tubing there. Just an FYI.
Great info! For my situation, the heater core leaked all the fluid into the passenger foot well. But I agree having another short hose to "cap" the heater core ends would be a good idea 👍
Watched the other video... While pulling out the old heater core both hoses broke off. Local shop didn't have hoses available had to order over night but I had to be a work the next morning. Quick fix until the right parts arrived. Ty
I have a Ford minivan and the heater core is nearly impossible to get to and getting to the firewall is going to be really hard but I do want to cut the heater hoses and put in a splice, permanently. Heaters and air conditioners are for women and people that live north of Texas. Never drive more than a couple of miles a day anyway.
I put a ball valve on my ‘94 7.3 because the heater core puts out heat all year round. Now when I shut it off in the summer it’s about 10 degrees cooler inside.
I might use this video as a reference cz accidentally one of my hoses of the heater core on my 97 expedition decide to snap right where it connect to the core so I’ll keep you updated if I was able to fix it using the guidance of your video.
Quick question. I snapped one of the connectors off at the firewall today, so i ended up cutting both hose connectors off and plugging the send and return lines with brass plugs and hose clamps. Does it have to circulate through those hoses and the heater core, or is it ok to leave them plugged until i get another hose?
I would connect the 2 hoses together, personally. I *think* it might be ok with them plugged, as coolant should still flow through the cooling system. But with the hoses connected it is at least 100% fine, just as if the heater core was installed.
Is there a drain inside that catches coolant and is drained thro the engine bay. I have a leak and it sticks inside the engine bay by the Heater core area .
I don't think that would work. One of those is an inlet and one is an outlet. The coolant flow would be blocked and you'd just overheat the engine quickly, is my guess.
I see the same 2 hoses sticking out of the firewall of my 2011 Ford Fiesta. Would it be the same configuration as your pickup? I don't use the heater in the interior, I want to condemn it because I live in a hot climate country
It could be the same kind of setup. I would do a search for heater core details for your specific car, though, before cutting hoses. Plus, if your heater is working fine, you're going to have coolant and pressure in the lines, that might not be very safe and I wouldn't recommend it unless you know what your doing.
Can I just put the hose from the water pump directly to the top of the engine block instead of connecting the hoses can I just take the outlet hose out and put a hose from the water pump directly to the port back into the motor? I did that but my temp gauge don't work anymore
Hmm seems like that should work, but I would only do that as a temporary solution. Your coolant temp gauge doesn't read anything at all? It shouldn't be affected by that change, I wouldn't think
I have a Ford Explorer TXL and I was trying to bypass the heating hoes just the same way that you was doing but do you have a video almost the same one as you were showing for a Ford Explorer it's kind of different do you got a video just for that vehicle just waiting for your answer
Will this help the AC blow colder during summer? My 2010 f150 is not blowing cold enough. Even after an AC recharge, door actuator and evaporator core replacement. I can only get 58 in the vent temperature. I saw someone say rerouting away from the heater core will help cool the air more? Is that true?
The heater core in these trucks can be replaced through the glove box without removing the dash and takes about as much time as it does to perform this temporary fix
Not really, it takes much longer. I changed the heater core once I got back from this trip (see the video for it). I was out in the middle of nowhere basically when mine popped. It was not possible to replace it there. That's what this video is for, when you don't have the option to change the core where you are at.
Probably not, unless you are leaking coolant. Check the coolant level and see if it is low. If the heater core is cracked or leaking it will fog your windshield.
@@TheBTRGarage Than you for your fast response The fluids are good I have no leaks another thing that I forget to tell you is that only overheats on parking but not when I accelerate.
That is a pretty good sign of a leaking heater core, my truck did the same when it cracked. Almost like your windshield is fogging up. Check under the passenger foot well area for coolant leaks.
Did the same thing on my 2013 F150 5.0 today after the heater core hose blew outside the firewall. Routed both together and it keeps coming off at the water pump side. Blew off 4 times and wasted gallons of coolant. I had the clamp tightened good too. Guess I'll leave it sit til this week when the stores have new hoses in stock. Worst thing Ford ever did was these worthless hoses with the quick disconnect. Theres nothing "quick" about them. Especially the one at the firewall with the heater hose. I had to cut it off and the quick disconnect is still on the pipe. No room for human fingers to get in there to squeeze them. Smh.
@@TheBTRGarage Finally got it off this morning after blistering my finger tips. There's literally no room at the firewall but managed to get it. I just clamped it back on with a small radiator hose clamp and it's holding for now. Looks like a replacement hose is like $149. Sheesh. Cheaper to run a rubber hose with clamps at each end. $15 should do it. Lol
20 videos on this quick fix. Not one shows the engine running after clamps are tightened. They leak ! Pretty damn steady too. That's while clamped. You mentioned the clamps aren't even needed it's so tight a fit. That is ridiculous.
I did this video after driving hundreds of miles with this fix in place. Never once had a leak. I wouldn't publish it if it didn't work. Sorry you had leaks, sounds like your solution failed.
@@turo669 one of the fittings fell apart during disconnection anyway (20-year-old plastic, who'd have thought?), so i just put a garden hose splice in there
I won’t do it on super duty it will change the flow direction and you will end up with boiling degas bottle . There a special way to do it unless he puts a specific instruction DONT do it.
It is the same direction as if it was hooked up normally to the heater core. I drove for weeks like this with no I'll affects. You're welcome to share this "special way" and I'll update if I missed something.
Sorry, but is NOT clearly shown what exact hose are connected to what, also time wasted on irrelevant things... tome is money and important, dont waste video time on other things that are not the actual repair or parts to use.
Appreciate this! my 2015 ford flex heater core replacement quote was $1600. You have to take the whole dash out. Forget it. Bypass it.
Wow that's a lot 😳 I replaced the heater core on my truck after this video and it was not that bad. Must be more difficult on the 2015 trucks.
@@TheBTRGarage Lots of vehicles require the dash to be dropped. You got lucky if you don’t need to drop the dash. My ‘01 Ranger required a dash drop as well…not a fun job 😅
Oof, yea that would not be fun! 😬
thank you for this video. My 08 F150 is leaking coolant and I suspect the heater core. Have to make a road trip tomorrow and don't have time to replace it (not easy on my truck). I'm going to try this bypass. I figured this was the way to do it but guess I just needed some reassurance. LOL Thanks again!
No problem, glad to help!
Did it work
Thanks bud, I'm doing this right now on my 5.8l 93 e150. I wanted to Salute you because everything I read (it was a bunch) said locate the heater core & cut the two hoses and join there (at the core) this way is more efficient.
Glad to help!
Have to do this in the Bass Pro Shop parking lot. My buddy is running me to Auto Zone for the parts.
Good luck! Hope the video helps you get back on the road.
Great idea. My '98 econoline needs a heater core, but I've been driving without heat for a while anyway. So, I'll use your advice & simply connect the hoses. Thanks for that.
thanks a load. im glad you make this video
Thanks for the video . Problem solve .
Very informative and your very articulate !!!! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
On the 1st Gen Explorer Sport Trac, maybe for all 4.0 SOHC engines the factory hoses that go into the firewall(passenger side) will need a 5/8 coupler which you can get at Autozone or other auto parts stores. Also get about 4-6" of any kind of tubing to plug up the open ports after removing the hoses from the intake and outtake or you will have the excess coolant from the heater core splashing around making a mess unless you are okay with that, eventually that will go away. I had extra clear tubing from aquarium pumps to use, if the parts store doesn't have the tubing you need then go to a Lowe's/HomeDepot and get the tubing there. Just an FYI.
Great info! For my situation, the heater core leaked all the fluid into the passenger foot well. But I agree having another short hose to "cap" the heater core ends would be a good idea 👍
Thank you,I definitely needed the help. the video was very helpful.
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much you are very very helpful God bless you
Happy to help!
Watched the other video... While pulling out the old heater core both hoses broke off. Local shop didn't have hoses available had to order over night but I had to be a work the next morning. Quick fix until the right parts arrived. Ty
Awesome, that's what this vid is for!
Good old tech.
you should teach some of these geniuses to make a solid instructional video
Excellent video wish more like this short to the point will definitely use it other video for replacement of core
Thanks!
I have a Ford minivan and the heater core is nearly impossible to get to and getting to the firewall is going to be really hard but I do want to cut the heater hoses and put in a splice, permanently. Heaters and air conditioners are for women and people that live north of Texas. Never drive more than a couple of miles a day anyway.
I put a ball valve on my ‘94 7.3 because the heater core puts out heat all year round. Now when I shut it off in the summer it’s about 10 degrees cooler inside.
I might use this video as a reference cz accidentally one of my hoses of the heater core on my 97 expedition decide to snap right where it connect to the core so I’ll keep you updated if I was able to fix it using the guidance of your video.
Tough luck with the heater core, good luck and hope this helps.
@@TheBTRGarage it’s not that bad cz I already remove and put back together the dash board I’ll do everything in less than 4 hours
Nice!
Wife don’t like the cold anyways😐 she just stays home 🤔🤣
Quick question. I snapped one of the connectors off at the firewall today, so i ended up cutting both hose connectors off and plugging the send and return lines with brass plugs and hose clamps. Does it have to circulate through those hoses and the heater core, or is it ok to leave them plugged until i get another hose?
I would connect the 2 hoses together, personally. I *think* it might be ok with them plugged, as coolant should still flow through the cooling system. But with the hoses connected it is at least 100% fine, just as if the heater core was installed.
thanks for the info!
No problem!
What size is the coupler
My ford F650 heater core just went out! Can I bypass the same way>?????????
GOD Bless you and your Family in The Name of Jesus Christ For Making This Video 🎉
Is there a drain inside that catches coolant and is drained thro the engine bay. I have a leak and it sticks inside the engine bay by the Heater core area .
Mine seems to be leaking coolant from the aluminum cover on the left bank when excelerating it spray coolant on to the the left front coil pack
Can you just go down to the pump and block it off there and at the block or does it have to circulate through that hose?
I don't think that would work. One of those is an inlet and one is an outlet. The coolant flow would be blocked and you'd just overheat the engine quickly, is my guess.
I need a video for 1998 Ford with no AC..to by pass ta heater core
My heater hose broke and there was leaking all over the dash how long does it take for the water to come out
Can you bypass the heater control valvue????
I see the same 2 hoses sticking out of the firewall of my 2011 Ford Fiesta. Would it be the same configuration as your pickup? I don't use the heater in the interior, I want to condemn it because I live in a hot climate country
It could be the same kind of setup. I would do a search for heater core details for your specific car, though, before cutting hoses. Plus, if your heater is working fine, you're going to have coolant and pressure in the lines, that might not be very safe and I wouldn't recommend it unless you know what your doing.
@TheBTRGarage thanks for the heads up! I'll do additional research first
Hi, i need to ask a few question. about my 04 expedition eddie baurer. please reach out need to ask where few thing hook too.
I have a ls swap ranger I'm looking to do this is all the heater core hoses same size?
I'm not sure, might be able to measure the Ranger heater core connection to get an idea.
@@TheBTRGarage ok, thanks
Can I just put the hose from the water pump directly to the top of the engine block instead of connecting the hoses can I just take the outlet hose out and put a hose from the water pump directly to the port back into the motor? I did that but my temp gauge don't work anymore
Hmm seems like that should work, but I would only do that as a temporary solution. Your coolant temp gauge doesn't read anything at all? It shouldn't be affected by that change, I wouldn't think
I have a Ford Explorer TXL and I was trying to bypass the heating hoes just the same way that you was doing but do you have a video almost the same one as you were showing for a Ford Explorer it's kind of different do you got a video just for that vehicle just waiting for your answer
Unfortunately I do not have a video for that particular vehicle, sorry.
Will this help the AC blow colder during summer? My 2010 f150 is not blowing cold enough. Even after an AC recharge, door actuator and evaporator core replacement. I can only get 58 in the vent temperature. I saw someone say rerouting away from the heater core will help cool the air more? Is that true?
@jacobchamblin6317 I have not heard of this before. I'm trying to think how the heater core would affect the AC but not coming up with any ideas.
How long do the bypass last ?
As long as you need it to, you just don't have any heat when the heater core is bypassed like this.
Is this the same for the 2009 f150?
Yes just different hose location. Probably on the left side of the engine
The heater core in these trucks can be replaced through the glove box without removing the dash and takes about as much time as it does to perform this temporary fix
Not really, it takes much longer. I changed the heater core once I got back from this trip (see the video for it). I was out in the middle of nowhere basically when mine popped. It was not possible to replace it there. That's what this video is for, when you don't have the option to change the core where you are at.
Buddy my car heater core makes some noice and my car overheats do you think dis is the problem?
Probably not, unless you are leaking coolant. Check the coolant level and see if it is low. If the heater core is cracked or leaking it will fog your windshield.
@@TheBTRGarage
Than you for your fast response
The fluids are good I have no leaks another thing that I forget to tell you is that only overheats on parking but not when I accelerate.
May need to bleed the cooling system or flush and refill. Sounds like air bubbles in the system.
@@TheBTRGarage
Thank you so much for your help
Mine smokes from the dash why could it be ND it smells like coolant its 2003 f250 7.3
That is a pretty good sign of a leaking heater core, my truck did the same when it cracked. Almost like your windshield is fogging up. Check under the passenger foot well area for coolant leaks.
will this work on 04 4.6v8
It should, you would just need to find the 2 heater hoses going into the cab and split/bypass them the same way.
@@TheBTRGarage thanks
Im gonna use this idea to flush my heater core so I don't have to f with them palstic ford stealership quick disconects way under there!
Would this work on a 2003 windstar?
It might, you would just have to identify the right hoses. They are probably in different locations than these trucks.
I bought an 04 f150 and someone did this to it now im trying to find a way to undo and change the core 😭😭
I have another video that shows how to change the heater core. Hope that helps.
ruclips.net/video/S5g0XVtq2jc/видео.html
Did the same thing on my 2013 F150 5.0 today after the heater core hose blew outside the firewall. Routed both together and it keeps coming off at the water pump side. Blew off 4 times and wasted gallons of coolant. I had the clamp tightened good too. Guess I'll leave it sit til this week when the stores have new hoses in stock. Worst thing Ford ever did was these worthless hoses with the quick disconnect. Theres nothing "quick" about them. Especially the one at the firewall with the heater hose. I had to cut it off and the quick disconnect is still on the pipe. No room for human fingers to get in there to squeeze them. Smh.
Yea the quick connects are definitely a pain in the ass 😒 Hope you get it sorted out.
@@TheBTRGarage Finally got it off this morning after blistering my finger tips. There's literally no room at the firewall but managed to get it. I just clamped it back on with a small radiator hose clamp and it's holding for now. Looks like a replacement hose is like $149. Sheesh. Cheaper to run a rubber hose with clamps at each end. $15 should do it. Lol
20 videos on this quick fix. Not one shows the engine running after clamps are tightened.
They leak ! Pretty damn steady too.
That's while clamped.
You mentioned the clamps aren't even needed it's so tight a fit.
That is ridiculous.
I did this video after driving hundreds of miles with this fix in place. Never once had a leak. I wouldn't publish it if it didn't work. Sorry you had leaks, sounds like your solution failed.
@@TheBTRGarage I took the coupler out & clamps off. Started fresh with next size clamps. Worked like a charm.
Thank you.
you lost me at "cut the hoses." i was looking to see if a coupler exists that would fit the ends
May have got this done by now but you’ll just have to fab something.
@@turo669 one of the fittings fell apart during disconnection anyway (20-year-old plastic, who'd have thought?), so i just put a garden hose splice in there
@@rngwrm hummm… ok….
I won’t do it on super duty it will change the flow direction and you will end up with boiling degas bottle . There a special way to do it unless he puts a specific instruction DONT do it.
It is the same direction as if it was hooked up normally to the heater core. I drove for weeks like this with no I'll affects. You're welcome to share this "special way" and I'll update if I missed something.
I rather have my heat working
Sorry, but is NOT clearly shown what exact hose are connected to what, also time wasted on irrelevant things... tome is money and important, dont waste video time on other things that are not the actual repair or parts to use.
What size bypass coupler did you use 5/8 or 3/4" ?
I used 1/2", though 5/8 would work too. I think 3/4 would be too big.
Will thia work for 2012 F150 5.0??
It would, you just need to find and identify the right heater core hoses. They might be in a slightly different spot than on the older trucks.