Kinda interesting to see that men's contemporary fashion has exactly the same problems as women's fashion - unless you have a straight, thin body without curves, it won't fit right. Groaned at the "skin between buttons is visible" thing. I can't wear any blouses since they're either too tight at the bust and hip or too wide at the waist.
@@nataschavisser573 I think getting a bigger size and sewing the waist smaller is probably the better approach, but in practice I just don't wear any blouses even though I want to :(
I used to have this problem as a guy but then my body just grew into the most common size on earth and no its impossible to find clothes on sale. So be happy that you are probably capable of finding clothes on sale in your size haha.
One thing to remember about the thin men's styles of the 1950's/early 60's worn by the "Rat Pack" and the characters in "Mad Men" is that those men were most often World War II/Korean War veterans. As younger men they wore military uniforms which are designed to promote the broad shouldered, inverted triangle "wedge" look of the ideal young military man. This was in contrast the very baggy "Old Man" suits their fathers wore in the Great Depression 1930s. This thin, crisp, military style cut fit the modern, energetic, and massive economic expansion of the United States from 1945-1965.
But that military-style was in no way as thin and skinny as the styles now. We take for instance, Dean Martin. A fairly skinny man, but even his trousers were a bit more airy, and unlike slim styles of today, didn't taper so excessively at the ankles that you could literally see the shape of his calves (plus he wore socks, and now people don't want to do that either!) as if the trousers were made of plastic wrap from a faraway eyeview. Rather, that's what today's slim wear does. It clings on you everywhere. It doesn't matter if the fabric stretches either. I would gladly take the old military cuts over today's cuts, since today's cuts are nothing like them. Guys are afraid of shoulders now; it affects the torso and everybody wants the slender torso, to the point of harping on it religiously. That's understandable, but back in the day tailors knew how to give the wearer both. Now it's you have to sacrifice one for the other, well why? There's no need for these specifics. It's just that tailors are now taught mostly one way and that affects everyone else's style these days.
@@benjaminharrisongray9079 I wouldn't call Dino as "fairly skinny". He had a rather large frame and was quite beefy too in my opinion. But then again it might be that I'm too used to seeing Frank, Sammy or Astaire so my definition of it would be a little off
@@edinburgh1578 That and people were definitely more physically active back then and didn't have the luxuries of modern heating to keep warm and time-saving appliances.
They would be also pretty thin, anything between an athletic body and a skeleton-like starvation victim because of hunger in the war days. Definitely no bellies.
@@realdookoos honestly if you are in a field where wearing formals is a requirement, believe me a custom made suit from a reputed seller will probably last you for a very very long while
@@raupenimmersatt6906 you're missing the point. Most of the models used in fashion are representative of a very small percentage of the actual population
@@raupenimmersatt6906 Dressing with style means dressing for the body you have, not the body you wish you had. Healthy living is important, but there's only so much you can do about your body type.
Great video! As a 61 year old man, I’ve always believed dressing up is better for older men than being too casual. You’ve given me more arguments to back up my opinion.
The so-called 'modern style' is marketed too slim and tight in any case. I'm a muscular guy and I don't need shirt fabric constantly rolling up and down on me and pulling all about, or seams forcibly caving in my crotch and constantly taking it back to get it fixed by tailors costs money, especially these days it's more money every year. You have every right to be picky when your clothes feel unnatural. What I have come to have a problem with is the people now who keep saying that this style is always how the style was designed to look, when that is just not true. It's time to be more vocal about it. There's a lot of lies going about when classic fashion from the '60s and past is brought up and it needs correction once & for all. Especially in the area of trousers, anyone can go look at photos of the style of trousers in those days and see that they were in no way as slim as they are made out to be now, and they rose higher above the waistline than modern trousers do where today 90% of them are cut low, so that you have this top heavy, chimpanzee looking silhouette which looks even worse if you have bowed legs or thick thighs. It's laughable to me. People in hot weather won't buy much of it because it's too uncomfortable; they miss the looser, slightly more airy fitting that let's your skin breathe. Almost everybody I talked to in Sau Paulo said this when I visited last year. You hear stories on style forums of jackets so ridiculously fitted small that the one button that keeps it on pops off in a couple months from the strain of extending arms or flexing a muscle. At least here in the US, when need to get back to more rational tailoring and styles, and no, I'm not asking for returning to the sloppy '90s either. But today, even the regular fittings are getting too clingy so let's please reconsider.
You're totally right. The suits of the '50s and '60s were definitely much roomier than some of the suits of today. They were some of the best-fitting suits in my opinion. Also I don't see how these manufacturers could possibly think that a large, muscular man would want a tight suit when the opposite would make more sense. Thankfully for me, my smaller build allows most suits to fit me in a more classic manner. Also it seems that suits are finally being properly sized again.
Yeah, kind of a pain to have a suit that doesn't allow you to connect both elbow... I always have the feeling I'll my suit when I cross my arm. And I'm, by no mean, what someone would call a "large muscular type".
@@hakonstrong-stomp8155 if 501s are too skinny on you, then you probably need to exercise. Haha. Also to all these people saying they don’t like how suits are slim, did you get it tailored or did you buy a suit that doesn’t fit you? Because you can have a slim tailored suit that still allows for perfect range of motion and looks great. A lot of places sell suits that fit in a way that will give that look without tailoring, but if you don’t get the right size, it will just be too small. Just go made to measure. You will see people wearing made to measure suits that look almost skin tight but they have full range of movement, and no bunching or tugging of the buttons.
It's always said that fashion is a circle and what was in style in the past will be in fashion tomorrow. But it seems like the ' fashion' today is distancing itself more and more from the past. Trousers become leggings ties and other neckware become obsolete and torn and unironed jeans paired with a suit jacket become a sophisticated ensemble. Where are we heading? Good we have the Gents at the Gentleman' s Gazette!
As a woman who loves historical fashion but doesn’t know as much about menswear I loved this! I’ve been wanting to know more about historical menswear, as there tends to be more of a focus on women. I also love that you can talk about masculine topics without toxic masculinity! This is a wonderful source of information for so many men and a such good role model for younger men!
You are right on target with the terrible look of low rise pants and shorter jackets with a higher button. I tried that type of suit recently and I looked awful. My shirt and belt were exposed under the jacket button, and the short jacket was odd looking. Keep in mind that I am 5’5”, with a flat stomach, and the modern style did NOT work on me.
It is kinda interesting that for 10 or 15 years fashion industry tries to shove specific trends into the public but gets ignored a lot by the masses, because it does not suit many and is uncomfortable.
@@kidaria1333You'd be surprised by what people fall for. Literally 99% of people have no idea how clothing works. As the average person is now wearing low quality and very casual clothes, no one has an idea of what a suit used to look like. That's why the slim fit, polyester garbage trend hasn't subsided. The NPCs just assume that classic clothing is very uncomfortable and tight so they buy them. Bonus points for wearing white trainers because they say that dress shoes are extremely uncomfortable (again, they only ever wore cheap ones from very hard leather and the fit was very wrong)
@@glossymouse7712 You listed lots of correct aspects. However back in the days majority had no idea what suits them either. Quality and tailored cloth had been better for anyone even if the cloth didn't fit to the body type. And dressing styles in genereal fitted better a huge varitation of body types. These days we have more variation and different styles but like you have written most of the time in bad quality plus the average person has no idea what suits them. What was also better back in the days and a miss these days are professional shop assissants who know how to dress people and have fun to do so. You are correct with pointing out quality dressing shoes are way more comfortable as cheap ones however it is still no comparison to sneakers or boots. Especially people with back problems feel the difference.
@@kidaria1333 Pretty much spot on. Also to note is that fabrics were way heavier, so, combined with what is now known as "regular fit", even off the rack suits and coats could look fine on people. As for the dress shoe thing, although I'm a very specific case, I've found that dress shoes are the only comfortable shoe for me. I think the tight fit and the hard sole work for me, as soft and roomy trainers cause unimaginable back pain. I realize that this is not the case for 99% of people, but I think people would appreciate them more if they tried wearing them.
If there's one thing I learned, models are their to give either inspiration or give suggestions on what to wear. They are and should not be the ones to dictate on what you wear. After all it is you yourself and the taste you have of clothes that you wear that bring out the individuality and uniqueness of one
I'd like to argue that both classic and modern style don't fit all body types.. I, for example, have long legs and arms relative to my torso, therefore i prefer mid to slightly low rise for my trousers (as commonly seen in modern trousers) since a higher rise would make my torso look incredibly short.. On the other hand, modern jackets wouldn't suit me either since they tend to be cut shorter and have a high buttoning point, making my arms look unproportionally long and my torso even shorter.. So in the end of the day i believe that a true timeless style is the style that truly fits you 😁
Yeah, it's all about proportion really. I'm 5'10 and my legs are fairly short (I wear a 30" inseam) , and they're also muscular, so unlike yourself, low-rise pants don't work to well because they give me a Johnny Bravo-ish silouette to my legs.
With a major current trend being that “anything retro is cool”, I think better advice would be to find which era of suit most flatters your body type and that you think fits your personality. Given how drastically fashion evolves, and has evolved through the 20 century, what does “classic” even mean?
I agree with you. I believe that by "classic" they meant designs that are timeless and will always look nice years after. Certain clothes and styles achieve that naturally, because people keep wearing them even after they're "outdated".
Right when I started an interest in menswear, I was buying jackets on clearance from Jos A Bank. I quickly noticed that all of the models were in the same 3 or 4 awkward, contrived poses. Even apart from jackets I’ve noticed that models are sometimes posed to hide imperfections in the fit. Love to see people moving like human beings in the GG videos ...
I bought a coat online from JAB once. Even paying attention to the sizing, how the coat fit the model in the pic and how the coat fit me were two completely different things.
I don’t know how this ended up being in my RUclips recommended feed as I’m a lady (who does actually dress up every day, mind you-even just to run basic errands around town) but I am thoroughly enjoying this. Just saying hello to the men of this page. Great content and I’ll be sure to keep watching LOL 😄❤️ It would be lovely to meet somebody like any of you guys in real life. Sadly, in my neck of the woods, it’s out of place to wear anything but jeans and a T-shirt.
In my city it’s the same unless you’re downtown and working. There’s actually a young guy who I know that constantly wears a suit, albeit a very poorly tailored one, and people always make fun of him.
I used to love shopping at Express until I started working out and my shoulders got too wide to fit even their 2X shirts (when you could even find them). Since then I've embraced a more classic look and am infinitely more happy for it
That’s funny because i used to not like express because they weren’t slim enough with suits, then they got it just right, and then they got even skinnier and I started being a clothes snob. Now i wouldn’t consider buying a suit from express. Maybe other stuff, but typically.
Interesting that for men, Express seems to be lacking because I love the curve fit of women’s clothes from Express (since I have a more traditional hourglass shape than the straight-size / more rectangular body type that’s typically catered to in women’s clothes). A shame that Express does not offer this for their men clients.
@@campkira Certainly up for debate, but a good example from classic Hollywood where this works in both cases might be Edward G Robinson, the short rotund look really jives for him.
@@jeremyemilio9378 that's a look to avoid for sure, Scott Frasier Simpson and Thomas Farthing are both good examples of avoiding the dated look while keeping with the classic tailoring and style, particularly with their trouser collections.
@@matthewboerger4946 Edward G. Robinson is a good example. He was a dabber dresser. He wore high wasted pants with pleats. I like the 1930's - 40's style of suits. Today's suits are too tight and the jackets are too short. They look ridiculous.
I'm sure that this has been said before, but I really appreciate that GG discusses classy, masculine topics without devolving into right-wing, red-pill bs. GGs only apparent agenda is to improve men's fashion, etiquette and social sensibilities
I mean its already red pilled and based so to speak. Its so based it doesnt even have to mention it. In many ways this is what doing is supposed to be vs talking or complain ing which is what most of breastube or red pill tubę is.
Not really much need to mention politics in a non-political video. Unless ofcourse you're the type of person actively looking for something to be triggered/offended about.
This comment reflects my views on this channel perfectly. In a time where most Men's lifestyle channels have become Andrew Tate Stans , GG stands apart. Not to mention they actually know their stuff .
I remember back when I was in high school, I needed to find a sport coat for events my school was doing. I'm naturally slim, but I'm also short and it was impossible to find anything that looked good on me. Almost everything I found was too long and had gigantic shoulders, and the few coats I found that fit better had arms that were too short. The only way I could have gotten a sport coat that fit me properly is if I had one custom tailored, and I didn't want to spend the money on something I'd only need to wear a handful of times.
my husband has the same problem and he either wears things as more casual look, like a musician which is fine because he's a drummer, or he doesn't try at all. The only jackets that fit him properly are my dad's old jackets from the 60s.
Great video! Sometimes your videos get a bit in the weeds for my liking, but your in depth guides on basic fitment keep me coming back. Im a muscular guy thats just had a lot of trouble picking stuff off the rack. Even with tailoring, the tips about lapel size and top button are absolute gold. Thanks GG!
This is a great video. Finally, someone to explain all of this about modern styles and how a regular man who is not tall, lanky, bereft of wide shoulders and a muscular chest can dress in a suit and look good. Thanks for this great information. Take care.
I'm 54 years old. Back in the day when a pant leg cuff doesn't (or just barely) touches the top of the shoe....we called them "high waters" and the giggling and pointing ensued. Nowadays you see "high waters" on every model. Am I the only one that thinks this look is awful.? What happened to a nice "break" in the pant leg?
Well I'm 20, I guess is due to the fact, that in modern fashion (most commonly in jeans and chinos) they wear them in that way, so they translate that directly from there. Also in the more fashion forward style, in general but again more in the casual side, the sneakers/shoes are supposed to be a central part of the outfit, thus they get more eye catching design + you roll up your pants, in order to complete that goal.
When you have a very slim pant leg, pants can only be so long before they start puddling when touching the shoe. A wider pant leg allows for the pants to almost touch the back of the heel and create a slight break in the front.You always have to consider both the pant leg opening and the length at the same time.
@@gentlemansgazette Thank you very much for responding to my query. That makes a lot of sense...I wasn't taking into consideration the pant leg opening. It makes perfect sense. As a 54 year old (and I don't want to look like a 24 year old) my pant legs will be just a tad wider thus allowing me a traditional break that I'm used to. Thanks so much for clearing this up for me. I love your channel. have a good weekend.
Yeah, I have a lot of issues with the current slim and skinny fit trend. My body type leans more towards the extreme. I'm fairly athletic with narrow waist, decently broad chest and shoulders and decently thick thighs and calves with fairly large feet. Nothing fits me off the rack. If it's good on the chest and shoulder/calves and thighs, it's baggy around the waist. If it fits on the waist, the buttons pop off on the chest and the pants won't even come over my calves.
Good video and very informative! I find myself in an odd camp most of the time when it comes to suits. (Being 5'8" and about 205lbs). I appreciate how these guys talk about regular dudes, not the super skinny models you see everywhere
I have a slight/skinny body type so I am personally very happy that I can get clothes that actually fit. Anything that is “regular fit” usually looks like a tent on me, even if I get the correct size. I am enjoying it while it lasts! Fashions are starting to turn and you can see that in the casual end, particularly in womenswear where baggy and unflattering stuff is starting to come back in. FWIW, I love the mod style too. Not all blokes are 6-foot soldiers or rugby prop forwards!
Exactly. It’s nice going to a store and being able to put on a jacket that needs little tailoring rather than putting on a tent from the 90s or early 2000s that would cost a fortune to get right. Even getting fitted back then the suit would be twice my size.
After enduring seemingly endless returns and exchanges over the past three years as a result of sizes that vary wildly from any traditional sizing standard, I've retreated to focusing on purchasing vintage American and British made clothing from thrift shops as the sizes are more exacting and the quality is higher and the overall drape is much better.
I do the same, I've ordered from the US a few times in recent times which have offered casual wear that fits well without leaving you looking like a stuffed turkey, the only place i can find clothes that fit me is the thrift store, i am not even a huge guy or anything just well built with broad shoulders, it's literally impossible to find anything new that fits.
While pleats are rarely seen on pants that are sold as separate items, to be worn with sports jackets, I find them very comfortable to wear for business travel by air. Not just in the aircraft but during the hours wasted just waiting. Phil.
@@MartinIrwin In Australia you effectively don't have any choice but to spend half of your Business life flying. That is why so many Australians pioneered global long distance flights and the daily air traffic between Melbourne and Sydney is the busiest inter Capital Cities airflight in the World. I am also very aware how COVID 19 has affected Airline business, because 16 weeks ago, when late one evening I was admitted to the Emergency COVID 19 Intensive Care Ward of The Alfred Hospital in Melbourne Australia, the Nurse in Charge told me that I had only two days to live because the infection was very advanced. Early the next morning the Doctor in Charge of The COVID 19 Ward told me that I would not last until the end of the day. Well over the next 12 weeks I failed about 40 tests, but I eventually passed. The effects were very debilitating, so I am still under daily Hospital care, but I survived. Phil.
Love seeing Thom Browne mentioned in one of your videos! I'd be very interested in further videos with your guys' thoughts on his overall influence on suiting, or just your opinions of his clothing as art!
The other issue with modern shirts is cuff width and forearm width. I am a pretty average guy but I find slim fit shirts tight on the forearms and leave no space for a watch. This also feeds into the restriction since the cuffs won't slide up your forearms as you reach up. Some kind of elastication on the the cuff buttons might help with this. Completely agree with you guys about the preference for classic style. My advice - look for your jackets and shirts at thrift stores and spend the money on new shoes and pants. I used to go to work in jeans and a tee shirt but I decided that life is theater and I am in charge of my own costume department so let's have some fun with clothes as part of a life fully lived. What I particularly love doing is deviating from work dress code by either dressing up or down from my allotted station of polo shirt and chinos. The look of panic on executives' faces when they see me in a suit is priceless.
Those executives probably think you are leaving for job interviews! That seems to be the only time people dress up at my office is when they have an interview over lunch.
I'm glad Preston mentioned the "short legs, long torso" camp. I'm 6'2" and I use this to make my legs look more proportionate. If I wore my trousers on my hips like most guys my age, I'd have an inseam of 29'. By my height alone I should be 32'.
Great video with a great explanation! You should consider make a video on brands or stores that in this modern days offer this classic and timeless looks
I really appreciate you going into the issue with having thicker thighs due to cycling, it’s definitely made finding flattering pants and trousers quite the challenge!
Guys i love your content, thank you for your guides and your videos! Would you please make a video on how to take care of long hair in man? And how a man with medium/long hair should dress/prepare to look good? ( hairstyle, combination with beard, etc.) as i'm a long hair man myself. thank you very much! and cheers for the team!
Possibly the best video I've seen on RUclips to date that explains the broad strokes of modern men's fashion. Thank you for the excellent content and useful advice.
Fred Sampson lol and those big dawg jeans worn by unstylish dads look extremely outdated and non tasteful to the younger woman most men want to attract lol. Slim/skinny jeans are the most attractive way to go. Not straight not bootcut
I had a local Tailor fit me a tailored suit by Hugo boss. It was more expensive but 10 years later it still looks amazing. Also, Hugo boss was the only brand that made athletic suits in my town.
I’m not extremely overweight (a little chub from quarantine but nothing exceptional) however I have extremely broad shoulders and am short. Every button up shirt I wear has to be tailored or custom, and I cannot wear any pants off the rack, they all have to be heavily altered.
I'm a trans man, and I really appreciate the helpful advice. Having not been socialized with this information, I have to essentially relearn it as an adult, and videos like these have really helped me build my confidence. Thank you!
@hawkevick9184 🤣 Ok. If you want to believe that go ahead. No amount of logic or science is going to make ignorant people change thier minds so go for it 🤷♂️
As someone who has a self assessed body shape of "Dorito" I basically can't go off the rack these days. It only accentuates the need to scoop myself in salsa..
As someone who is heavy set, seeing this video acknowledge the social images portrayed over mass media and adverts as an accurate portrayal of the average man is much welcomed. Thank you for another brilliant piece!
I actually thing modern fashion pretty much accommodates for every body type now. There is regular fit, slim fit, extra slim fit, and even athletic fit in a majority of brands now. Obviously, what we see on the model will be a slim fit, but you can't really blame the company for wanting to put out what, in their opinion is their best look/fit. I also don't fit the typical slim fit and while it takes a while to get the right fit, usually I'll just need a slight taper at the leg opening and shorten the pants. MTM shirts has also never been more affordable.
You can get shirts and jackets to fit you, but the narrow lapels are still odd, and retailers seldome if ever offer wider lapels. Nowadays if I find something like a 8 cm lapel, that is already at the wide end. So retailers do not actually cater for all fits, as regular fit jackets do not have wider lapels or lower bottonning points.
@@adamkun5524 I will agree with RTW suiting still has that downfall, I was mostly talking about the pants and shirt selection. However, MTM suiting has never been more affordable. I also can see the wider lapels and pleated high waisted pants shifting back into the mainstream as many high fashion brands have been playing with this silhouette for the past few seasons already. All in all, I think it's harder to look 'out dated' nowadays and many have the mindset of having proper proportions when your body, which I really enjoy!
I agree, this video is just whining and catering to the unfit and the mediocre. It's probably smart business for the channel but untrue as a whole. Most brands have a wide number of fits available, plus alterations, plus MTM being way more mainstream now. There is no excuse for anyone to cry about not finding a fit, hit the gym and stop whining.
Preston is spot oh here...I always have to remind myself that I do not have the body type or youth to pull off some of the current trends........great video.
I've had this problem my whole life. Nothing labeled "slim" fits me. I do enjoy the classic styles, minus the cloth tie. I wear a bolo tie with a decorative broach that will change depending on what I'm doing.
Such a welcome video. As I got older the tall, thin look became harder to pull off. I continued to force myself into it but am starting to come around to a slightly more roomy look without being sloppy or baggy.
As a boy with slabs of meat for thighs, but a shrinking waist, I can confirm that it is near impossible to find affordable dress pants, or really any nice pants, in stores. I also have long arms and a potbelly, and wide shoulders. So its almost impossible for me to shop in stores and walk out with something nice.
I would disagree on the narrow lapels. I don't think they flatter anyone; not even the thin. Some shoulder structure and a larger lapel that creates more of a Vee will always create a better looking proportion. Just make sure the width isn't excessive to the point of nearly touching the shoulder if you are a more slender gentleman. Same with trousers. A more relaxed fit combined with a moderate to full break adequate leg opening, and a cuff, will flatter the proportions of the tall and thin better.
The 1930's and 40's being referred to as the "Golden Age" did get me because I'm not used to it my mind usually doesn't think about what kind of suits men wore in those days since history really focussed on other things. I love these videos since they're really interesting for a young guy like me, especially because of my fascination for suits and less casual style because it just looks fancier.
Gentlemen...welcome to the world of fashion as how women have experienced it for many years! We gals have been struggling with fashion that caters to women who are very tall with prepubescent bodies: heaven forbid we have a sensual curve. I don't know how most men squeeze into ultra-tight ultra-slim cuts. Fashion, regardless of gender, should fit well on all body types. I will remember these tips for when my son needs to wear these styles (he's only 8, but I have subscribed to your channel so that I have good knowledge of men's style).
Im personally aiming for a Masculine and elegant look. Im broad, but the correct degree of slimfit takes the looks up to another level. Just find the balance, and you will look your best imo.
I live in Cleveland, Ohio. The state of menswear here is deplorable. Our few department stores don't stock enough variety for any of these styles to be studied, and actually there are few events that Clevelanders dress up for anyway. Even on Euclid Avenue downtown, the major business street, on a weekday, you rarely see a suit. I rely on the internet and great content like this to inform myself about dressing.
Now that many people are working from home, do you have any advice for dressing presentably for video conferences while maintaining that WFH casual vibe? Would love to see a video like that!
I was thinking the same thing. I think the current WFH environment is going to have a lasting effect on business fashion. I work for a fairly conservative accounting firm, but we try to match out client's dress code. But, now on Zoom meetings our clients appear with whatever the rolled out of bed with!
lol sausage casings! Well. this is a video that has been long coming - I was so peeved and disheartened by modern styles and cuts, it was one of the many reasons I've chosen to follow classic style. Bravo Gentleman's Gazette :-) Tony
I tend to delve into both classical and modern styles but "skinny" suits are the one thing I've never seen someone weae without looking like an overstuffed sausage. I do lean towards a more clasic style with a slim fit, since due to body shape, the "regular" fit just looks like I'm wearing a tent, which is something I always struggled with, having to pick a longer sleeve to fit the back properly or overly wide calf sections to fit the thighs.
I would like to see Preston in a tailored suit, the "flow-yness" of that suit seems a bit.. unimpressive. I understand the style and context but there's something left unmentioned in the dialogue and today's choice of suit. Cannot wait for the next informational video to help my style though! I'll be watching
(I really liked my train of thought so I'm expanding for personal pleasure.) Does anyone care how many suits Superman owns? Or is that just Superman? (Haha Marvel is sipping cocktails from their hostile take-over; but you understand my thought.) For those of us who think before spending money.
I have really enjoyed this look and style. Great work mister. Now I have to get ready to hit the club both this video in style and then Delta Parole - Wasted Music Video that I had watched before this since it just released, motivated me to be the man tonight. Small The Killers namedrop for those that know haha who is also a big fan and what are any of the other beautiful peoples hit the club songs?
The trend for slim and stretchy low rise trousers is actually due to the increasing weight of the average person, not because designers are making clothes for a tall, slim, ideal body type. It sells because they comfortably stop under the belly-they’re a solution to the problem of wearing pants without suspenders and keeping things more casual and sporty. Designers of RTW are not detached from reality!
The traditional fit today, isn't even traditional fit. If I compare my vintage Burberrys, G&H, BB suits to modern clothes, the difference is obvious even at a comparable rise. Everything is slimmed down for frail people.
@@WooliteMammoth I should've expected that you'd watch GG and stuff. I'm surprised it took this long for me to be recognized in comment sections by anyone.
@@Stevenmulraney to be honest, I mostly hate on the videos. I like some of em, but nobody should be dressing like this in 2020 lol. Also he looks like mashed potatoes so nothing fits handsomely. How ya been?
I'm 5'8" tall and in the classic fit coat I wear a 40 short which generally has perfect length of jacket and sleeves off the rack. If it's a modern fit, I move up one size to 42 regular. Since the modern fit usually has a shorter jacket I don't need to get a short. However, the sleeves will be too long and will need to be taken up about an inch. In a nutshell... 40S for classic fit and 42R for modern fit which usually requires sleeve shortening as well.
The suits of the '50s and '60s were actually roomier than contemporary suits. They may have been slimmer than '30s and '40s suits but the chief difference between them and today's styles is that nowadays, suits tend to taper in the mid section as opposed to going straight down.
The jackets you're talking about were sack suit style. That really got rolling in the '50s, popularized by Ike and JFK, but the taper was still around, but less, and it's just that you had to go to a tailor to get it and it was considered upper crust looking. Off the rack was dominating the American sartorial world by then.
@@benjaminharrisongray9079 I'm just pointing out that if you look at the suits in Mad Men or any old movie or TV show from that time, the suits are a lot roomier than Gentleman's Gazette are making them out to be and likely would fit most body types. The suits which they are talking about are the Mod suits as popularised by British Invasion bands.
Awesome video! Personally, I really like the higher buttoning point on “modern” jackets; also the more narrow leg and arm openings. To each their own and ensuring you for your body type is paramount.
Kinda interesting to see that men's contemporary fashion has exactly the same problems as women's fashion - unless you have a straight, thin body without curves, it won't fit right. Groaned at the "skin between buttons is visible" thing. I can't wear any blouses since they're either too tight at the bust and hip or too wide at the waist.
I have the same problem - I end up sewing up the front placket of most of my blouses so that I stop flashing people.
@@nataschavisser573 I think getting a bigger size and sewing the waist smaller is probably the better approach, but in practice I just don't wear any blouses even though I want to :(
I used to have this problem as a guy but then my body just grew into the most common size on earth and no its impossible to find clothes on sale. So be happy that you are probably capable of finding clothes on sale in your size haha.
One thing to remember about the thin men's styles of the 1950's/early 60's worn by the "Rat Pack" and the characters in "Mad Men" is that those men were most often World War II/Korean War veterans. As younger men they wore military uniforms which are designed to promote the broad shouldered, inverted triangle "wedge" look of the ideal young military man. This was in contrast the very baggy "Old Man" suits their fathers wore in the Great Depression 1930s. This thin, crisp, military style cut fit the modern, energetic, and massive economic expansion of the United States from 1945-1965.
But that military-style was in no way as thin and skinny as the styles now. We take for instance, Dean Martin. A fairly skinny man, but even his trousers were a bit more airy, and unlike slim styles of today, didn't taper so excessively at the ankles that you could literally see the shape of his calves (plus he wore socks, and now people don't want to do that either!) as if the trousers were made of plastic wrap from a faraway eyeview. Rather, that's what today's slim wear does. It clings on you everywhere. It doesn't matter if the fabric stretches either. I would gladly take the old military cuts over today's cuts, since today's cuts are nothing like them. Guys are afraid of shoulders now; it affects the torso and everybody wants the slender torso, to the point of harping on it religiously. That's understandable, but back in the day tailors knew how to give the wearer both. Now it's you have to sacrifice one for the other, well why? There's no need for these specifics. It's just that tailors are now taught mostly one way and that affects everyone else's style these days.
@@benjaminharrisongray9079 I wouldn't call Dino as "fairly skinny". He had a rather large frame and was quite beefy too in my opinion. But then again it might be that I'm too used to seeing Frank, Sammy or Astaire so my definition of it would be a little off
@@edinburgh1578 That and people were definitely more physically active back then and didn't have the luxuries of modern heating to keep warm and time-saving appliances.
They would be also pretty thin, anything between an athletic body and a skeleton-like starvation victim because of hunger in the war days. Definitely no bellies.
To conclude everyone should have a custom made suit
Lol
not everyone can afford one or wants to waste the money on one
Always.
@@realdookoos honestly if you are in a field where wearing formals is a requirement, believe me a custom made suit from a reputed seller will probably last you for a very very long while
@@realdookoos a custom made suit truly is no waste of money. At least buy an off the rack suit and get it tailored
those models arent built like "regular" guys just like female models arent built like "regular" women.
Well noted!
Well time to work on a better body maybe?
@@raupenimmersatt6906 you're missing the point. Most of the models used in fashion are representative of a very small percentage of the actual population
@scottbaino last time I had a 32" waist was in 8th grade.
@@raupenimmersatt6906 Dressing with style means dressing for the body you have, not the body you wish you had. Healthy living is important, but there's only so much you can do about your body type.
Great video! As a 61 year old man, I’ve always believed dressing up is better for older men than being too casual. You’ve given me more arguments to back up my opinion.
The background music is absolutely perfect
It could be my day's soundtrack
didn't know Sven had a belly of that scale. Now I feel safe on this channel. 😂
Dressing well flatters your good traits to the point where the less preferable traits don't stand out.
Good to see he's pregnant like me.
@@Call-me-Al not in his case
İ was going to lose weight now i think im just going to stay like this
This is the GentleMAN's Gazette, after all, not the Gentleboy's.
The so-called 'modern style' is marketed too slim and tight in any case. I'm a muscular guy and I don't need shirt fabric constantly rolling up and down on me and pulling all about, or seams forcibly caving in my crotch and constantly taking it back to get it fixed by tailors costs money, especially these days it's more money every year. You have every right to be picky when your clothes feel unnatural. What I have come to have a problem with is the people now who keep saying that this style is always how the style was designed to look, when that is just not true. It's time to be more vocal about it. There's a lot of lies going about when classic fashion from the '60s and past is brought up and it needs correction once & for all. Especially in the area of trousers, anyone can go look at photos of the style of trousers in those days and see that they were in no way as slim as they are made out to be now, and they rose higher above the waistline than modern trousers do where today 90% of them are cut low, so that you have this top heavy, chimpanzee looking silhouette which looks even worse if you have bowed legs or thick thighs. It's laughable to me. People in hot weather won't buy much of it because it's too uncomfortable; they miss the looser, slightly more airy fitting that let's your skin breathe. Almost everybody I talked to in Sau Paulo said this when I visited last year. You hear stories on style forums of jackets so ridiculously fitted small that the one button that keeps it on pops off in a couple months from the strain of extending arms or flexing a muscle. At least here in the US, when need to get back to more rational tailoring and styles, and no, I'm not asking for returning to the sloppy '90s either. But today, even the regular fittings are getting too clingy so let's please reconsider.
You're totally right. The suits of the '50s and '60s were definitely much roomier than some of the suits of today. They were some of the best-fitting suits in my opinion. Also I don't see how these manufacturers could possibly think that a large, muscular man would want a tight suit when the opposite would make more sense. Thankfully for me, my smaller build allows most suits to fit me in a more classic manner. Also it seems that suits are finally being properly sized again.
Yeah, kind of a pain to have a suit that doesn't allow you to connect both elbow... I always have the feeling I'll my suit when I cross my arm. And I'm, by no mean, what someone would call a "large muscular type".
Exactly! It's everywhere! Look how horrible the average models look displaying the trousers online.
Dang right. I cant even wear my size in levi 501 jeans haha,
@@hakonstrong-stomp8155 if 501s are too skinny on you, then you probably need to exercise. Haha. Also to all these people saying they don’t like how suits are slim, did you get it tailored or did you buy a suit that doesn’t fit you? Because you can have a slim tailored suit that still allows for perfect range of motion and looks great. A lot of places sell suits that fit in a way that will give that look without tailoring, but if you don’t get the right size, it will just be too small. Just go made to measure. You will see people wearing made to measure suits that look almost skin tight but they have full range of movement, and no bunching or tugging of the buttons.
It's always said that fashion is a circle and what was in style in the past will be in fashion tomorrow. But it seems like the ' fashion' today is distancing itself more and more from the past. Trousers become leggings ties and other neckware become obsolete and torn and unironed jeans paired with a suit jacket become a sophisticated ensemble. Where are we heading?
Good we have the Gents at the Gentleman' s Gazette!
As a woman who loves historical fashion but doesn’t know as much about menswear I loved this! I’ve been wanting to know more about historical menswear, as there tends to be more of a focus on women. I also love that you can talk about masculine topics without toxic masculinity! This is a wonderful source of information for so many men and a such good role model for younger men!
You are right on target with the terrible look of low rise pants and shorter jackets with a higher button. I tried that type of suit recently and I looked awful. My shirt and belt were exposed under the jacket button, and the short jacket was odd looking. Keep in mind that I am 5’5”, with a flat stomach, and the modern style did NOT work on me.
Stick to the classic style.
It is kinda interesting that for 10 or 15 years fashion industry tries to shove specific trends into the public but gets ignored a lot by the masses, because it does not suit many and is uncomfortable.
@@kidaria1333You'd be surprised by what people fall for.
Literally 99% of people have no idea how clothing works. As the average person is now wearing low quality and very casual clothes, no one has an idea of what a suit used to look like. That's why the slim fit, polyester garbage trend hasn't subsided. The NPCs just assume that classic clothing is very uncomfortable and tight so they buy them. Bonus points for wearing white trainers because they say that dress shoes are extremely uncomfortable (again, they only ever wore cheap ones from very hard leather and the fit was very wrong)
@@glossymouse7712 You listed lots of correct aspects. However back in the days majority had no idea what suits them either. Quality and tailored cloth had been better for anyone even if the cloth didn't fit to the body type. And dressing styles in genereal fitted better a huge varitation of body types. These days we have more variation and different styles but like you have written most of the time in bad quality plus the average person has no idea what suits them. What was also better back in the days and a miss these days are professional shop assissants who know how to dress people and have fun to do so. You are correct with pointing out quality dressing shoes are way more comfortable as cheap ones however it is still no comparison to sneakers or boots. Especially people with back problems feel the difference.
@@kidaria1333 Pretty much spot on. Also to note is that fabrics were way heavier, so, combined with what is now known as "regular fit", even off the rack suits and coats could look fine on people.
As for the dress shoe thing, although I'm a very specific case, I've found that dress shoes are the only comfortable shoe for me. I think the tight fit and the hard sole work for me, as soft and roomy trainers cause unimaginable back pain. I realize that this is not the case for 99% of people, but I think people would appreciate them more if they tried wearing them.
If there's one thing I learned, models are their to give either inspiration or give suggestions on what to wear. They are and should not be the ones to dictate on what you wear. After all it is you yourself and the taste you have of clothes that you wear that bring out the individuality and uniqueness of one
I'd like to argue that both classic and modern style don't fit all body types.. I, for example, have long legs and arms relative to my torso, therefore i prefer mid to slightly low rise for my trousers (as commonly seen in modern trousers) since a higher rise would make my torso look incredibly short.. On the other hand, modern jackets wouldn't suit me either since they tend to be cut shorter and have a high buttoning point, making my arms look unproportionally long and my torso even shorter.. So in the end of the day i believe that a true timeless style is the style that truly fits you 😁
Yeah, it's all about proportion really. I'm 5'10 and my legs are fairly short (I wear a 30" inseam) , and they're also muscular, so unlike yourself, low-rise pants don't work to well because they give me a Johnny Bravo-ish silouette to my legs.
Totally agree, you try to find what works for you. Perhaps a made to measure or bespoke program is more suitable for you
Well said.
Absolutely. In many of the GG videos they stress that the most important consideration when buying clothing is that the fit works with your body.
With a major current trend being that “anything retro is cool”, I think better advice would be to find which era of suit most flatters your body type and that you think fits your personality. Given how drastically fashion evolves, and has evolved through the 20 century, what does “classic” even mean?
I agree with you. I believe that by "classic" they meant designs that are timeless and will always look nice years after. Certain clothes and styles achieve that naturally, because people keep wearing them even after they're "outdated".
Reasons why I, and my stocky-former-rugby-and-football-playing-frame, generally ignore modern fashion lol
I'm in the same boat.
Im a 112kg rugby guy also hehe. But slimming and tapering without overdoing it, is simply like wearing Ironmans suit
Not all guys are built like that though! I personally like modern cuts as it doesn’t look like I’m wearing my dad’s clothes!
I think you can always look stylish. Tom Ford has some videos of advice. However, if you settle for wide pajama looking pants, it is worse.
Yes reasons
Right when I started an interest in menswear, I was buying jackets on clearance from Jos A Bank. I quickly noticed that all of the models were in the same 3 or 4 awkward, contrived poses. Even apart from jackets I’ve noticed that models are sometimes posed to hide imperfections in the fit. Love to see people moving like human beings in the GG videos ...
I bought a coat online from JAB once. Even paying attention to the sizing, how the coat fit the model in the pic and how the coat fit me were two completely different things.
I don’t know how this ended up being in my RUclips recommended feed as I’m a lady (who does actually dress up every day, mind you-even just to run basic errands around town) but I am thoroughly enjoying this. Just saying hello to the men of this page. Great content and I’ll be sure to keep watching LOL 😄❤️
It would be lovely to meet somebody like any of you guys in real life. Sadly, in my neck of the woods, it’s out of place to wear anything but jeans and a T-shirt.
In my city it’s the same unless you’re downtown and working. There’s actually a young guy who I know that constantly wears a suit, albeit a very poorly tailored one, and people always make fun of him.
@@MisterRorschach90 poor guy
I used to love shopping at Express until I started working out and my shoulders got too wide to fit even their 2X shirts (when you could even find them). Since then I've embraced a more classic look and am infinitely more happy for it
That’s funny because i used to not like express because they weren’t slim enough with suits, then they got it just right, and then they got even skinnier and I started being a clothes snob. Now i wouldn’t consider buying a suit from express. Maybe other stuff, but typically.
Interesting that for men, Express seems to be lacking because I love the curve fit of women’s clothes from Express (since I have a more traditional hourglass shape than the straight-size / more rectangular body type that’s typically catered to in women’s clothes). A shame that Express does not offer this for their men clients.
If more men realized the plethora of benefits high waisted trousers have to offer, the world would be better off.
high waisted don't work if you had a bit of stomach....and it don't look well for short people...
Not everyone wants to look like a 55 year old boomer
@@campkira Certainly up for debate, but a good example from classic Hollywood where this works in both cases might be Edward G Robinson, the short rotund look really jives for him.
@@jeremyemilio9378 that's a look to avoid for sure, Scott Frasier Simpson and Thomas Farthing are both good examples of avoiding the dated look while keeping with the classic tailoring and style, particularly with their trouser collections.
@@matthewboerger4946 Edward G. Robinson is a good example. He was a dabber dresser. He wore high wasted pants with pleats. I like the 1930's - 40's style of suits. Today's suits are too tight and the jackets are too short. They look ridiculous.
I'm sure that this has been said before, but I really appreciate that GG discusses classy, masculine topics without devolving into right-wing, red-pill bs. GGs only apparent agenda is to improve men's fashion, etiquette and social sensibilities
I mean its already red pilled and based so to speak. Its so based it doesnt even have to mention it. In many ways this is what doing is supposed to be vs talking or complain ing which is what most of breastube or red pill tubę is.
Not really much need to mention politics in a non-political video. Unless ofcourse you're the type of person actively looking for something to be triggered/offended about.
@@ValerioRhys I don't mean this video in particular. I'm commenting on their channel as a whole
@@B_Cleric_Time hello this is cnn bot, welcome to the left where nothing goes right
This comment reflects my views on this channel perfectly. In a time where most Men's lifestyle channels have become Andrew Tate Stans , GG stands apart. Not to mention they actually know their stuff .
The 90s nearly destroyed classic men's fashion altogether and we are only now recovering
I'm ready to go back
I remember back when I was in high school, I needed to find a sport coat for events my school was doing. I'm naturally slim, but I'm also short and it was impossible to find anything that looked good on me. Almost everything I found was too long and had gigantic shoulders, and the few coats I found that fit better had arms that were too short. The only way I could have gotten a sport coat that fit me properly is if I had one custom tailored, and I didn't want to spend the money on something I'd only need to wear a handful of times.
my husband has the same problem and he either wears things as more casual look, like a musician which is fine because he's a drummer, or he doesn't try at all. The only jackets that fit him properly are my dad's old jackets from the 60s.
BUT PRESTON - you're skinny , so a slim fit like in the first part of the video actually looks good on you.
Yeah, I think his suits look too baggy generally, a modern suit style would actually look better on him.
True, I like Preston but he needs to get slimmer pants.
@@fatlenny7653 1:08 too baggy and weird 1:14 Perfect fit.
Yeah,
Preston can like what he likes,
But he would look much better in a slim fitting suit.
He said he is not "athletic" enough to look good in them
Great video! Sometimes your videos get a bit in the weeds for my liking, but your in depth guides on basic fitment keep me coming back.
Im a muscular guy thats just had a lot of trouble picking stuff off the rack. Even with tailoring, the tips about lapel size and top button are absolute gold. Thanks GG!
This is a great video. Finally, someone to explain all of this about modern styles and how a regular man who is not tall, lanky, bereft of wide shoulders and a muscular chest can dress in a suit and look good. Thanks for this great information. Take care.
I already gave up on blazers because of these trends. Thanks for bringing these up.
20s 30s and some of the 40s suits had the most naturally flattering look. Those were made for your body's silhouette to look the best.
they were also probably all bespoke so duh
1850 or so is were i prefer to look for coats. Just learned i need high rised pants, low rise never sit rite on my vests.
I'm 54 years old. Back in the day when a pant leg cuff doesn't (or just barely) touches the top of the shoe....we called them "high waters" and the giggling and pointing ensued. Nowadays you see "high waters" on every model. Am I the only one that thinks this look is awful.? What happened to a nice "break" in the pant leg?
Well I'm 20, I guess is due to the fact, that in modern fashion (most commonly in jeans and chinos) they wear them in that way, so they translate that directly from there.
Also in the more fashion forward style, in general but again more in the casual side, the sneakers/shoes are supposed to be a central part of the outfit, thus they get more eye catching design + you roll up your pants, in order to complete that goal.
Same age....same camp. Anymore, I recommend dress as you want and let those around you deal with it.
When you have a very slim pant leg, pants can only be so long before they start puddling when touching the shoe. A wider pant leg allows for the pants to almost touch the back of the heel and create a slight break in the front.You always have to consider both the pant leg opening and the length at the same time.
Lol we called them "don't touch my shoes", weirdly enough it was associated with oldies style 🤔
@@gentlemansgazette Thank you very much for responding to my query. That makes a lot of sense...I wasn't taking into consideration the pant leg opening. It makes perfect sense. As a 54 year old (and I don't want to look like a 24 year old) my pant legs will be just a tad wider thus allowing me a traditional break that I'm used to. Thanks so much for clearing this up for me. I love your channel. have a good weekend.
Trying to look good in a suit is my major motivation for trying to lose weight. Thanks for going over what you were wearing Preston, it looks good.
Yeah, I have a lot of issues with the current slim and skinny fit trend. My body type leans more towards the extreme. I'm fairly athletic with narrow waist, decently broad chest and shoulders and decently thick thighs and calves with fairly large feet. Nothing fits me off the rack. If it's good on the chest and shoulder/calves and thighs, it's baggy around the waist. If it fits on the waist, the buttons pop off on the chest and the pants won't even come over my calves.
Good video and very informative! I find myself in an odd camp most of the time when it comes to suits. (Being 5'8" and about 205lbs). I appreciate how these guys talk about regular dudes, not the super skinny models you see everywhere
I have a slight/skinny body type so I am personally very happy that I can get clothes that actually fit. Anything that is “regular fit” usually looks like a tent on me, even if I get the correct size. I am enjoying it while it lasts! Fashions are starting to turn and you can see that in the casual end, particularly in womenswear where baggy and unflattering stuff is starting to come back in. FWIW, I love the mod style too.
Not all blokes are 6-foot soldiers or rugby prop forwards!
Exactly. It’s nice going to a store and being able to put on a jacket that needs little tailoring rather than putting on a tent from the 90s or early 2000s that would cost a fortune to get right. Even getting fitted back then the suit would be twice my size.
After enduring seemingly endless returns and exchanges over the past three years as a result of sizes that vary wildly from any traditional sizing standard, I've retreated to focusing on purchasing vintage American and British made clothing from thrift shops as the sizes are more exacting and the quality is higher and the overall drape is much better.
I do the same, I've ordered from the US a few times in recent times which have offered casual wear that fits well without leaving you looking like a stuffed turkey, the only place i can find clothes that fit me is the thrift store, i am not even a huge guy or anything just well built with broad shoulders, it's literally impossible to find anything new that fits.
While pleats are rarely seen on pants that are sold as separate items, to be worn with sports jackets, I find them very comfortable to wear for business travel by air. Not just in the aircraft but during the hours wasted just waiting. Phil.
What is this air travel of which you speak?
@@MartinIrwin In Australia you effectively don't have any choice but to spend half of your Business life flying. That is why so many Australians pioneered global long distance flights and the daily air traffic between Melbourne and Sydney is the busiest inter Capital Cities airflight in the World. I am also very aware how COVID 19 has affected Airline business, because 16 weeks ago, when late one evening I was admitted to the Emergency COVID 19 Intensive Care Ward of The Alfred Hospital in Melbourne Australia, the Nurse in Charge told me that I had only two days to live because the infection was very advanced. Early the next morning the Doctor in Charge of The COVID 19 Ward told me that I would not last until the end of the day. Well over the next 12 weeks I failed about 40 tests, but I eventually passed. The effects were very debilitating, so I am still under daily Hospital care, but I survived. Phil.
Love seeing Thom Browne mentioned in one of your videos! I'd be very interested in further videos with your guys' thoughts on his overall influence on suiting, or just your opinions of his clothing as art!
I agree with the button stance. I wish more companies offered slightly lowered stances.
Great video as always! Keep them coming!
Yeah, I don't have a problem with that. I love the good old classic menswear.
After watching this, I will get myself a proper fit suit like professor Slughorn
The other issue with modern shirts is cuff width and forearm width. I am a pretty average guy but I find slim fit shirts tight on the forearms and leave no space for a watch. This also feeds into the restriction since the cuffs won't slide up your forearms as you reach up. Some kind of elastication on the the cuff buttons might help with this.
Completely agree with you guys about the preference for classic style. My advice - look for your jackets and shirts at thrift stores and spend the money on new shoes and pants. I used to go to work in jeans and a tee shirt but I decided that life is theater and I am in charge of my own costume department so let's have some fun with clothes as part of a life fully lived. What I particularly love doing is deviating from work dress code by either dressing up or down from my allotted station of polo shirt and chinos. The look of panic on executives' faces when they see me in a suit is priceless.
Those executives probably think you are leaving for job interviews! That seems to be the only time people dress up at my office is when they have an interview over lunch.
I'm glad Preston mentioned the "short legs, long torso" camp. I'm 6'2" and I use this to make my legs look more proportionate. If I wore my trousers on my hips like most guys my age, I'd have an inseam of 29'. By my height alone I should be 32'.
You have exactly the voice I'd expect you to have, very happy for that. Thanks for the tips!
Great video with a great explanation! You should consider make a video on brands or stores that in this modern days offer this classic and timeless looks
I really appreciate you going into the issue with having thicker thighs due to cycling, it’s definitely made finding flattering pants and trousers quite the challenge!
Well done, Preston! This is the most informative video of yours or any others around on this topic.
If it's any consolation wide fits are coming in to style again, so we can look like we're in the 80s/90s once more.
Guys i love your content, thank you for your guides and your videos!
Would you please make a video on how to take care of long hair in man? And how a man with medium/long hair should dress/prepare to look good? ( hairstyle, combination with beard, etc.) as i'm a long hair man myself.
thank you very much! and cheers for the team!
Now this... Is a good idea.
Great video and the Tom Ford suits James Bond (Daniel Craig) wears are cut way too tight in my opinion.
Lol the guy looks amazing in them, stop hating.
Possibly the best video I've seen on RUclips to date that explains the broad strokes of modern men's fashion. Thank you for the excellent content and useful advice.
Thank You So Much, Preston! Educational, and excellently presented! 💜
FINALLY! Your best video yet; good advice all around. Well done.
This was very interesting...personally I don't find this modern look attractive...even on the "skinny teenage body style"
And those jeans that look like paint on should not be worn by any man....
Fred Sampson lol and those big dawg jeans worn by unstylish dads look extremely outdated and non tasteful to the younger woman most men want to attract lol. Slim/skinny jeans are the most attractive way to go. Not straight not bootcut
Everything is so tight and skinny.
Almost to the point where it’s uncomfortable just to look at.
Way too tight. I'm skinny too. The pants are cut like Levis in some cases. I will not buy a new suit. I am happy with my old suits
One of Preston’s best presented video. Keep doing this!
i have nothing interesting to say
Bravo, best statement ever🙂👍
This speaks to me
Thank you for your feedback.
Digging the Santa Cruz profile pic
Interesting 🤔
I had a local Tailor fit me a tailored suit by Hugo boss. It was more expensive but 10 years later it still looks amazing. Also, Hugo boss was the only brand that made athletic suits in my town.
I’m not extremely overweight (a little chub from quarantine but nothing exceptional) however I have extremely broad shoulders and am short. Every button up shirt I wear has to be tailored or custom, and I cannot wear any pants off the rack, they all have to be heavily altered.
Thanks so much for this video. Low rise and mid rise fashion is the Bain of my sartorial life!
I'm a trans man, and I really appreciate the helpful advice. Having not been socialized with this information, I have to essentially relearn it as an adult, and videos like these have really helped me build my confidence. Thank you!
You're no man
@hawkevick9184 🤣
Ok. If you want to believe that go ahead. No amount of logic or science is going to make ignorant people change thier minds so go for it 🤷♂️
@@hawkevick9184 YOU'RE no man, for making such snide remarks to a fellow person. Show some respect.
As someone who has a self assessed body shape of "Dorito" I basically can't go off the rack these days. It only accentuates the need to scoop myself in salsa..
When you look at The Rat Pack, it still didn't look like someone wearing a suit that was shrunk in the wash.
As someone who is heavy set, seeing this video acknowledge the social images portrayed over mass media and adverts as an accurate portrayal of the average man is much welcomed. Thank you for another brilliant piece!
the similies on this channel are legendary
I actually thing modern fashion pretty much accommodates for every body type now. There is regular fit, slim fit, extra slim fit, and even athletic fit in a majority of brands now. Obviously, what we see on the model will be a slim fit, but you can't really blame the company for wanting to put out what, in their opinion is their best look/fit. I also don't fit the typical slim fit and while it takes a while to get the right fit, usually I'll just need a slight taper at the leg opening and shorten the pants. MTM shirts has also never been more affordable.
You can get shirts and jackets to fit you, but the narrow lapels are still odd, and retailers seldome if ever offer wider lapels. Nowadays if I find something like a 8 cm lapel, that is already at the wide end. So retailers do not actually cater for all fits, as regular fit jackets do not have wider lapels or lower bottonning points.
@@adamkun5524 I will agree with RTW suiting still has that downfall, I was mostly talking about the pants and shirt selection. However, MTM suiting has never been more affordable. I also can see the wider lapels and pleated high waisted pants shifting back into the mainstream as many high fashion brands have been playing with this silhouette for the past few seasons already. All in all, I think it's harder to look 'out dated' nowadays and many have the mindset of having proper proportions when your body, which I really enjoy!
I agree, this video is just whining and catering to the unfit and the mediocre. It's probably smart business for the channel but untrue as a whole. Most brands have a wide number of fits available, plus alterations, plus MTM being way more mainstream now. There is no excuse for anyone to cry about not finding a fit, hit the gym and stop whining.
You can't deny being fit is part of being fashionable.
Preston is spot oh here...I always have to remind myself that I do not have the body type or youth to pull off some of the current trends........great video.
I've had this problem my whole life. Nothing labeled "slim" fits me.
I do enjoy the classic styles, minus the cloth tie. I wear a bolo tie with a decorative broach that will change depending on what I'm doing.
Such a welcome video. As I got older the tall, thin look became harder to pull off. I continued to force myself into it but am starting to come around to a slightly more roomy look without being sloppy or baggy.
As a boy with slabs of meat for thighs, but a shrinking waist, I can confirm that it is near impossible to find affordable dress pants, or really any nice pants, in stores. I also have long arms and a potbelly, and wide shoulders. So its almost impossible for me to shop in stores and walk out with something nice.
I would disagree on the narrow lapels. I don't think they flatter anyone; not even the thin. Some shoulder structure and a larger lapel that creates more of a Vee will always create a better looking proportion. Just make sure the width isn't excessive to the point of nearly touching the shoulder if you are a more slender gentleman.
Same with trousers. A more relaxed fit combined with a moderate to full break adequate leg opening, and a cuff, will flatter the proportions of the tall and thin better.
The 1930's and 40's being referred to as the "Golden Age" did get me because I'm not used to it my mind usually doesn't think about what kind of suits men wore in those days since history really focussed on other things. I love these videos since they're really interesting for a young guy like me, especially because of my fascination for suits and less casual style because it just looks fancier.
Thats what men need today
Love it Gentlemen
Gentlemen...welcome to the world of fashion as how women have experienced it for many years! We gals have been struggling with fashion that caters to women who are very tall with prepubescent bodies: heaven forbid we have a sensual curve. I don't know how most men squeeze into ultra-tight ultra-slim cuts. Fashion, regardless of gender, should fit well on all body types. I will remember these tips for when my son needs to wear these styles (he's only 8, but I have subscribed to your channel so that I have good knowledge of men's style).
Ironically at 6' I am too tall for most women's fashion. No matter what body you have, you will have issues
Nice video. That jacket at the beginning of the video fit very nicely
Im personally aiming for a Masculine and elegant look.
Im broad, but the correct degree of slimfit takes the looks up to another level.
Just find the balance, and you will look your best imo.
Awesome video guys! Very informative. Thank you
I’m 6’2” and about 230. No suit ever fits me well.
You’re a good candidate for MTM
Bespoke would probably be better than made to measure for grumblekin.
I'm 6'0 and 340, got a well fiting suit at DXL and had my tailor make alterations. Check there if youre in the US
I live in Cleveland, Ohio. The state of menswear here is deplorable. Our few department stores don't stock enough variety for any of these styles to be studied, and actually there are few events that Clevelanders dress up for anyway. Even on Euclid Avenue downtown, the major business street, on a weekday, you rarely see a suit. I rely on the internet and great content like this to inform myself about dressing.
As a big guy I never could find a suit that made me feel confortable or confident wearing it. Now I know why.
Now that many people are working from home, do you have any advice for dressing presentably for video conferences while maintaining that WFH casual vibe? Would love to see a video like that!
I was thinking the same thing. I think the current WFH environment is going to have a lasting effect on business fashion. I work for a fairly conservative accounting firm, but we try to match out client's dress code. But, now on Zoom meetings our clients appear with whatever the rolled out of bed with!
@@IanCaine4728 Mandatory hoodies and sweatpants dress code 😂
lol sausage casings!
Well. this is a video that has been long coming - I was so peeved and disheartened by modern styles and cuts, it was one of the many reasons I've chosen to follow classic style. Bravo Gentleman's Gazette :-)
Tony
I tend to delve into both classical and modern styles but "skinny" suits are the one thing I've never seen someone weae without looking like an overstuffed sausage.
I do lean towards a more clasic style with a slim fit, since due to body shape, the "regular" fit just looks like I'm wearing a tent, which is something I always struggled with, having to pick a longer sleeve to fit the back properly or overly wide calf sections to fit the thighs.
Tailoring.
I would like to see Preston in a tailored suit, the "flow-yness" of that suit seems a bit.. unimpressive. I understand the style and context but there's something left unmentioned in the dialogue and today's choice of suit. Cannot wait for the next informational video to help my style though! I'll be watching
Would you want a catalogue of suits to choose from ..or one made for you?
(I really liked my train of thought so I'm expanding for personal pleasure.) Does anyone care how many suits Superman owns? Or is that just Superman? (Haha Marvel is sipping cocktails from their hostile take-over; but you understand my thought.) For those of us who think before spending money.
I like the fact that GG can be open about facts about body types rather than assuming all should be slim.
What do you think about kilts
I have really enjoyed this look and style. Great work mister. Now I have to get ready to hit the club both this video in style and then Delta Parole - Wasted Music Video that I had watched before this since it just released, motivated me to be the man tonight. Small The Killers namedrop for those that know haha who is also a big fan and what are any of the other beautiful peoples hit the club songs?
The trend for slim and stretchy low rise trousers is actually due to the increasing weight of the average person, not because designers are making clothes for a tall, slim, ideal body type. It sells because they comfortably stop under the belly-they’re a solution to the problem of wearing pants without suspenders and keeping things more casual and sporty. Designers of RTW are not detached from reality!
So when you say casual and sporty you mean sloppy..... right? No one gets a potbelly from sports.
Preston has the monopoly on class, what a guy
Trying to get a nice pair of jeans - impossible now!
I've had good luck with Lucky brand
Get the athletic fit Levi's. They sit at the waist. You can do whatever tailoring afterwards
The traditional fit today, isn't even traditional fit. If I compare my vintage Burberrys, G&H, BB suits to modern clothes, the difference is obvious even at a comparable rise. Everything is slimmed down for frail people.
frail ? Maybe your just out of shape
steve! it's little sprite, remember?
@@WooliteMammoth I should've expected that you'd watch GG and stuff. I'm surprised it took this long for me to be recognized in comment sections by anyone.
@@Stevenmulraney to be honest, I mostly hate on the videos. I like some of em, but nobody should be dressing like this in 2020 lol. Also he looks like mashed potatoes so nothing fits handsomely. How ya been?
@@WooliteMammoth still rabblerousing. Not a lot of interesting stuff. What about you?
I'm 5'8" tall and in the classic fit coat I wear a 40 short which generally has perfect length of jacket and sleeves off the rack. If it's a modern fit, I move up one size to 42 regular. Since the modern fit usually has a shorter jacket I don't need to get a short. However, the sleeves will be too long and will need to be taken up about an inch. In a nutshell... 40S for classic fit and 42R for modern fit which usually requires sleeve shortening as well.
Very informative, for which I thank you. (Love the pocket square!)
Very much enjoyed the video despite being tall, thin and youthful 😂. I appreciate a combination of modern and classic style
I love Gentlemen’s Gazette • You fellas do a great job • No wonder you have over a million subscribers • Thank you •
The suits of the '50s and '60s were actually roomier than contemporary suits. They may have been slimmer than '30s and '40s suits but the chief difference between them and today's styles is that nowadays, suits tend to taper in the mid section as opposed to going straight down.
The jackets you're talking about were sack suit style. That really got rolling in the '50s, popularized by Ike and JFK, but the taper was still around, but less, and it's just that you had to go to a tailor to get it and it was considered upper crust looking. Off the rack was dominating the American sartorial world by then.
@@benjaminharrisongray9079 I'm just pointing out that if you look at the suits in Mad Men or any old movie or TV show from that time, the suits are a lot roomier than Gentleman's Gazette are making them out to be and likely would fit most body types. The suits which they are talking about are the Mod suits as popularised by British Invasion bands.
Wide fits with high trousers need a mainstream comeback now! We are starting to see this though in streetwear but suits are generally still slim.
High waist really only works if you're slim too...othrwise you look like danny devito as the penguin
Loved the video!
Excellent presentation!
I think the modern-day culprit is Hedi Slimane and I have a feeling this look is going to make a return once the oughts make a comeback.
Thanks for the sensible and informed advice guys!
Awesome video! Personally, I really like the higher buttoning point on “modern” jackets; also the more narrow leg and arm openings. To each their own and ensuring you for your body type is paramount.