Something to keep in mind: When you use "servo" mode, the little square turns blue. Most people are used to the little square turning green, which happens when you are using "one shot" mode.
Have been a way from photography for about a year and so needed a refresher on BB focusing, etc. This presentation is by FAR the most useful and practical set up and usage for me anyway. Thank you.
This video was extremely helpful for me. I'm a concert photographer with an R5 and after seeing this video, I started using the star button for Spot AF, and the AF-On button for Face Tracking AF. After several months of photographing like this, I can't imagine ever going back. Thank you for the great tip!
I got a chance to use your setting suggestions. It worked perfectly! I was on an engagement shoot and was able to go from a couple shot to taking a pic of the ring on her hand in a second. Keep posting these informative videos 👍🏼👏🏼. Thx!
I’ve been using this method on my R6 and love it. I have also found that if the eye detect won’t automatically pick up the subject you want you can hover the expanded focus box on the subjects face, then hit the *eye detect and it will lock on.
I've been doing portraits for 13yrs now, have given back button focus a try many times but never got used to it. Half press to focus works great for me.
@@SteveHiemstraAKAspeg no. You can’t focus and recompose with the half press being focus. I get that you can move the focus point but that’s not as quick as focus and recompose with back button focus
If I focus then recompose what I’m shouting I will surely lose the focus point as I’m moving and so are they. I never recompose for action. I don’t shoot still life.
Awesome tip and one of many reasons to move to mirrorless. For those like me who may not have a need for back button auto focus (weddings), I’ve set my camera for one shot single point by default and set the “AF-ON” button (not the star button/or you can do both) for eye/face detection and servo mode. That way I can shoot details (objects) and quickly switch to eye/face/servo for people. Thanks for the video!
@@richardpeterson2616 Hi! I do the same as Mark. You don't need to disable focussing on the shutter button. So long as you keep the back button you have assigned to eye detection pressed down, that takes priority.
I am SO going to use this tip. I;ve been struggling with workin the focus function out on the R5 which seems to have a mind of its own when I'm in run and gun type situations normally set to face detection. So pleased this video was shared!
Absolutely clear! I’ve spent xxx hours today trying to figure this out. Then I spent less than 1 hour with your channel and EUREKA! I’ve got it! Thank you David for this wonderful video for my new Canon R6. I will be watching it again and again until it becomes second nature!
Awesome tips! I recently picked up the R6, upgraded from a 9 year old cropped sensor and im blown away. I'll be adjusting my settings to your suggestions, these tips are a game changer, and so it's this new system.
I’ve set up my Sony A7iii like that. Back button AF on one button and Eye-AF on another. I never go back. Next thing to learn for former DSLR shooters is to expose with Histogram and Zebras only (in real time not after the fact). We don’t need the exposure meter anymore. This new method is faster and more accurate and it’s been used by videographers for years.
I use this method on my 1Dx MKII. AF-ON is set AI Servo and single point AF and the * button is set for AI Servo and expand AF. I shoot sports and I find this combination great when I shoot players portraits and action. Great tip for those that don't know or don't read the Canon White Paper
I use a 1DX ii and didn’t know about this feature. I just use the AF on button. I got a R6 ii now as well I set up dual back button focus for it but without customising the function. I’m going to do it for both cameras now 👍
This was one of my favorite perks when I got my R5 over the EOS R. It makes life SO much easier, having as many as FOUR autofocus modes right at your fingertips!
You are a bit late with this one : Jan Wegener did this a year or so ago. He does spot metering on the AF button. Before the arrival of the R5 and R6 I could do spot metering and area (bird in flight) with my 7D2 on separate buttons.
I have been using back button auto focus for years, and on my recent purchase of the R6, I also started using the star key for eye detection. To just learn that I can also use the star button for focusing, and eye detection is awesome for a bird photographer. Thank you so much for that tiny little detail on the some what hidden menu option!
Hi! I'm really confused how to customise the star button function on the Canon R6. I'm looking to shoot constantly using back button focusing with eye tracking most of the time and every so often switching the eye tracking off. I have changed my settings in the menu, but it still seems to be using eye tracking with both options. Do you know and how I can fix this?
I"m Canon at work and Nikon at home/side and I discovered this setup (probably via another video) a while back for my R5 and it's hands-down the way to go. Absolutely the best of both worlds and lightning fast. I use a similar switching technique on my z6ii going AF on for eye af and hitting a front custom button to switch to subject tracking, but it's not as quick or intuitive and as everyone knows, Nikon hasn't QUITE gotten all the way there with their af, but that's probably the best setup for that system.
I've always used the shutter button for focus/firing and don't mind it. I did try back button focus but my small hands made it inconvenient. I've now changed back focus to the star button which is much more comfortable. Thanks David
I have been using back button focus for years now, and indeed, I would not know how to focus in any other way. I am new to R5, and just set up the star button for eye detection/tracking next to the usual bb autofocus. Just fantastic ! thanks for the tip !
Personally I don’t mind having the shutter button have metering and af. It keeps my thumb free to move the focus point when I need. I have the AF-On button set to eye autofocus. Once I let go of AF-On it immediately switches to one shot where I have the ability to use my thumb to quickly move the focus point and my pointer finger will do the job of quickly focusing and taking the shot.
Same here. Eye auto focus on the shutter button and use my thumb if I want to focus on something else. The half press to start and hold and track a subject isn’t difficult or complicated like he makes it sound. He also described back button focus exactly the same as front button focus.
I have AF-ON programmed to AF-OFF so that in the few instances I want to recompose or prevent the camera from refocusing, I deactivate AF. This has the added benefit of activating MF peaking (highlighting) so that if there is a bird behind a branch or whatever I can focus on it. I have the other buttons programmed to spot and tracking and the DOF programmed to cycle through af modes. BBF is useful in certain cases and it's easy to program C2 or whatever for it but when the camera can track a moving subject, why take the chance of being out of focus when half press assures it will be in. Even Steve Perry has commented on this since he's shot the Z9.
Do you mind , Otávio, asking how did you set up an additional button for Aye/Face detection? Using Af-on for back button focus for ages but to have aye/face extra would be great
hmm. so I went back to this video to try out the techniques mentioned in this video. it is super super amazing! however, there is a slight issue with it in that when using this technique, it's very difficult to switch from eye to eye or subject to subject. when you have the eye detect AF by default, you'll see a box around an eye with a left arrow and a right arrow. by tapping left or right, you can switch to the other eye. you can also switch from person a to person b. but when you use the technique in the video, it'll pick the eye automatically and it's hard to switch eyes or people. the only way is to kind of whip the camera and hope it grabs the right object. So this could be "fixed" by flipping it around and having the eye detect AF as the standard and using the asterisk to switch to a different AF (like single point). But like David said, the issue with that is that you can't manipulate the position of the single point and you won't see the single point until you press the asterisk. So now I'm in a quandry. I guess I can get used to having the single point AF in the center of the frame. I thought about moving the point to a different default position. When you switch between AF modes, it usually saves the position of the AF point. However, when using the asterisk method, it always defaults to the AF point being in the center.
Thanks. I had not noticed the info-button options when programming *-button. Thanks for that hint. However, you have a ready setup for eye-autofocus on the button customization menu where you can do the same easier for any button. I personally use a 3 button Back button focus setup. 1) Af-on for eye-autofocus, 2) * for for metering&AF start (which activates the focus method i have selected, e.g. zone, see below) and then 3) the AF point button where i use "register/recall shooting func" which has been programmed to activate single point focus (behind info, select only AF method=single point, tracking sensitivity and accel/decl tracking to whatever you want and AF operation ON). Then i use the extra ring on objective to select my AF method (important for BBF button 2). This setup is really awesome (learned it from Whistling Wings Photography RUclips channel).
thanks for sharing this tip! I'm new to Back button focus. I just changed a bunch of settings for a wildlife trip up to Maine this week and was deliberating whether to do eye AF or not... I love the capability of being able to toggle back and forth so quickly without having to go back in the menu.
Strictly hobbyist here. I'm in between cameras and can't decide between the Canon or Nikon right now. But this piece of information is going to be a massive boost if I go for Canon as 90% of my shooting will be sports. Thank you for this.
Found this by accident when looking for something else and glad I watched it. A year with the R7 and three months with R6 and I never realized the AF setting within custom buttons had another layer. (The R7 has even more options). Great that you can choose what is affected by either focus button and what you want controlled by other buttons (in my case, I like Servo/One Shot, as well as focus areas (in most cases) to be changeable on the fly. Anyway, thank you!
Hi David, having received an R6 a couple of weeks ago I set up the focusing as per this video. I used it in this mode on wednesday to shoot a music event, having come from a 5D3, it was a revelation! I also hear a lot of grumbling on social media about the images/colour rendition etc not being that great, well I have no idea what people are talking about. I edited about 40 jpegs yesterday, which hardly needed any adjustments etc so, for me I think there are many plusses! Thanks for the clear set up advice, I'm now just waiting for everyone to get back out on the road!
You're a jpg shooter? How do you have your R6 set up for jpgs? I've had the 5D, 2, 3, 4 all set up similarly to produce a beautiful jpg that needed very little editing (provided light was good!)...I only got the R6 yesterday so about to start looking at that next!
I have a canon r5 now and have a bunch of nikons and have been shooting them for years but the eye af is not as good as the R5. The sony did not fit my hand as well so I picked up a R5 to try for a year before changing systems. I programed my z6ii front button to switch to to subject tracking as eye auto focus is not good enough but I could have chosen eye auto focus as well. I just got tired of missing shots so I spent some money. I have had it since the end of june and have probably done 12 shoots with it and I have also shot my nikon side by side and the hit rate is incredible. Thanks for this information. It will make my switch to Canon even easier. I just went into the menus and adjust it. I love my r5 and wish Nikon second gen z cameras were as good. I like the color better but that does not do enough if it is out of focus. They work on landscapes but the hit rate on the r5 is out of this world. This just made it better.
I've been using it this way since I first got the camera. I really like it this way especially when taking pictures of my daughter that's all over the place.
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Insanely helpful. I cannot wait to try this with the r6 I will be evaluating during a volleyball tournament this weekend. Thank you, such a great cheat code!
I use a slightly simpler approach by using the “Initial servo AF point” option to always start with a single fixed AF point that I leave in the upper part of the frame (as you do) where faces and eyes are usually found. This setting stops the camera from trying to guess what you want in focus (Canon seems to prioritize eyes, faces, then nearest object.). With this approach, I can use the exact same approach for faces, objects, whatever. If I want the face in focus, just put the AF point on the face, start focusing (BBF or shutter button, doesn’t matter), and reframe as desired. If I want something other than the face/eye in focus, just start with the AF point on that. Even if there are also faces in the frame, it will stick to the object. This works great for almost everything I shoot. For times it does breakdown, I have a button customized to toggle between Servo and One Shot.
I use exactly the same here so the AF doesn’t try to lock on to a “wrong” subject. Makes the success rate much higher than using the whole of the focus area rather than just 1 point
I did the other way around and love it since day one I bought the R5 2 years ago. Came back to leave a comment. Thanks for your videos. I subscribe a long time ago and always look for your videos. Keep them coming.
Game changing is NOT an understatement! I changed all my settings now and saved it to my card (thanks Canon!). And also a BIG thanks to Steve Brazill for the Q!
Not quite the same thing when using back button focus. That eye AF setting will not activate the focus on the star button and will only work if using the shutter button to activate the servo motors.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto @David Bergman there are two eye buttons. One is a toggle to turn eye AF on and off and the other one achieves exactly the same thing you describe in the video.
This is a game changer for me. I shoot sport almost exclusively, and my C1 and C2 settings are locked into the exact same settings, except one is One Shot and the other is Eye. Now I have an extra custom setting! 🎉
David, truly excellent tip duly set up under custom 1 on my R6. I routinely missed a moment, while reconfiguring even just the rotary C1-C2. Now I just move my thumb. Many thanks.
I remember having a similar eureka moment with the 5D4. That extra menu is available for focus style, albeit without eye focus. I have had mine set to AF-On for standard single point shooting and the * button for full tracking when people/kids/animals start shifting about. The R5 seems to be better at just about every aspect over the Mk4 from the million videos I’ve seen and what I’ve heard. My Walllet is shuddering more every day😆. Thanks David. 👍
And wouldn’t it be cool if you could customise the small function button to switch eyes? I saw you mention that as a trade off as you don’t have two thumbs to select the correct eye with the joystick at the same time.
We're now on 1.4 version firmware and things are quite different. Would really be great to get an update on setting up the back button focus. Thanks David.
Hiya! I too am using the R6 and I'm really confused how to customise the star button function. I'm looking to shoot constantly using back button focusing with eye tracking most of the time and every so often switching the eye tracking off. I have changed my settings in the menu, but it still seems to be using eye tracking with both options. Do you know and how I can fix this?
Great explanation. Thanks. I do this on an R6. I am new to the camera and I'm experimenting, especially with the autofocus features, including back button auto focusing. I have the system in servo all the time. I have the AF ON button set to my normal AF method (generally spot) and "meter on". As to the Asterisk button - in the first menu you come to when changing button settings - before selecting the "info" sub-menu - I choose Face Detect. I don't have it set up to meter, it just goes to Face Detect which activates eye detect system. I think the only real difference is that when I use the asterisk button it does not turn on the meter. My habit is to start with the "meter on" button which meters and focuses using spot. Then, if I think the situation is suitable for eye detect, I hit the asterisk button. Sometimes, with moving subjects like birds and such, I find that the eye detect system works better if I first focus with spot AF, and then switch to eye detect. But, I don't want the exposure to change mid burst. So, I don't want the asterisk to meter. But, seeing how you do this - I am considering whether I might be better off with both back buttons set to meter and focus. Have to think on it. Does anyone know - if you are in servo, and you hold down the focus button that is set to meter on and focus, does the metering start to change your exposures from shot to shot if you shoot bursts? I am often in manual mode with auto iso. I am often using this shooting birds etc.
For your main shutter button try changing that to the 3rd option (AE lock, while button pressed). That way once you get your exposure set, press and hold main shutter button half way. As long as you keep it pressed down half way in between burst shots and do not release it fully it will stay locked regardless of what you do with your focus. With the shutter pressed down it will not be “over ridden” even though the BBF buttons are set to meter start. I am using a R6 and this holds true.
Omg thank you so much! I had watched other videos and thought that I had everything set up properly but I still wasn't getting the "tracking" that I was hoping for with my R6. Turns out I just never switched the first setting with the shutter button! So excited to be able to unlock this now!!!!!!!!!!
You can do this on most Nikons.I I have been using this for years, it works on the AE-l/AF-l button work exactly the same as you have explaned in the part one
I got my first R5 back in February and this was one of the first things I setup, I’m surprised that more people don’t know about it and use it because it is awesome
I used to be a back-button focuser on my Nikon DSLRs. When I moved to the Z7, I started off that way, but with eye focus detect, I have switched back to shutter button focus. I mostly do portraits in. I would definitely use back-button focus and continuous focus if I were doing action photography
Thank you David for this straight forward easy to understand video. Such great advice for part time photographers that don't want to make auto focus and eye detect too complicated. I recently upgraded to the R5 and set up the 3 button focus methods as recommended by Whistling Wings. Made my head explode and took my concentration off of the shot. I am switching back to your recommendation.
I have been using this technique for a while. I learned it from the Whistling Wings RUclips Channel. I have all 3 buttons set to different focus methods. But you did a great presentation.
Thank you David for this straight forward video. So great for part time photographers that don't want to make auto focus and eye detect too complicated. I recently upgraded to the R5 and set up the 3 button focus methods as recommended by Whistling Wings. Made my head explode and took my concentration off of the shot. I am switching back to your recommendation.
Hiya- do you use Canon R6? I'm really confused how to customise the star button function. I'm looking to shoot constantly using back button focusing with eye tracking most of the time and every so often switching the eye tracking off. I have changed my settings in the menu, but it still seems to be using eye tracking with both options. Do you know and how I can fix this?
Just got my R6 and couldn't be more excited. This answered literally the first big question I had about the camera: how to quickly change between spot AF and Eye AF. The way you set it up with the shutter half-press focus disabled is a HUGE help! Quick question: why do you use expanded spot AF instead of spot AF? Doesn't that risk having the camera pick the wrong spot to focus?
I always used BBF on my 5DMIII, so switching to the R6 was frustrating to me, trying to go between people subjects and macro photography! THIS IS SO HELPFUL! Thank you David! 🙌🏻👍🏻
David, I picked up my R5 4 days ago and set my BB focus up Exactly like that (although I reversed the buttons like you mentioned). The "AF On" however doesn't give you the "Info options" like the * button does for some reason (??) Great Video! CORRECTION: I figured it out - the "Info" option only shows up when you select "Metering & AF Start", and not "Eye Detection AF".
Good catch. And the info option only shows up on the AF-ON, and * button. Unfortunately it does not work on the 3 button over (the focus point selection button).
Thank you 🙏 David. This will be a great help. I only shoot Canon as a hobbyist. Recently got R5 and like to use it’s autofocus to its full capacity. I like to shoot wild animals now started shooting birds.
I’ve gone to a triple back button focus for wildlife. I put the AF button to eye/af, the star button to zone and the MF button to spot. Then I set my Depth of Field button to cycle through the AF modes. Game Changer!
I use an R, and my mfn button is set to switch between single point, and face/eye. Then the slide bar on the back, I have set to tap left and it will toggle between eye/face.
Something to keep in mind: When you use "servo" mode, the little square turns blue. Most people are used to the little square turning green, which happens when you are using "one shot" mode.
Good to know especially after spending a couple of hours trying to get the blue to turn green🤣
Have been a way from photography for about a year and so needed a refresher on BB focusing, etc. This presentation is by FAR the most useful and practical set up and usage for me anyway. Thank you.
This video was extremely helpful for me. I'm a concert photographer with an R5 and after seeing this video, I started using the star button for Spot AF, and the AF-On button for Face Tracking AF. After several months of photographing like this, I can't imagine ever going back. Thank you for the great tip!
I got a chance to use your setting suggestions. It worked perfectly! I was on an engagement shoot and was able to go from a couple shot to taking a pic of the ring on her hand in a second. Keep posting these informative videos 👍🏼👏🏼. Thx!
I’ve been using this method on my R6 and love it. I have also found that if the eye detect won’t automatically pick up the subject you want you can hover the expanded focus box on the subjects face, then hit the *eye detect and it will lock on.
Good tip!
I've been doing portraits for 13yrs now, have given back button focus a try many times but never got used to it. Half press to focus works great for me.
Ditto. I find it to be an extra step
Yup. All the arguments for pressing AF-On also apply to half pressing the shutter 🤷♂️
@@SteveHiemstraAKAspeg no. You can’t focus and recompose with the half press being focus. I get that you can move the focus point but that’s not as quick as focus and recompose with back button focus
If I focus then recompose what I’m shouting I will surely lose the focus point as I’m moving and so are they. I never recompose for action. I don’t shoot still life.
Awesome tip and one of many reasons to move to mirrorless. For those like me who may not have a need for back button auto focus (weddings), I’ve set my camera for one shot single point by default and set the “AF-ON” button (not the star button/or you can do both) for eye/face detection and servo mode. That way I can shoot details (objects) and quickly switch to eye/face/servo for people. Thanks for the video!
Mark Wilder, did u disable “focusing” function on the shutter button OR the shutter button will still do both focusing n metering? Thx
@@richardpeterson2616 Hi! I do the same as Mark. You don't need to disable focussing on the shutter button. So long as you keep the back button you have assigned to eye detection pressed down, that takes priority.
I am SO going to use this tip. I;ve been struggling with workin the focus function out on the R5 which seems to have a mind of its own when I'm in run and gun type situations normally set to face detection. So pleased this video was shared!
Absolutely clear! I’ve spent xxx hours today trying to figure this out. Then I spent less than 1 hour with your channel and EUREKA! I’ve got it! Thank you David for this wonderful video for my new Canon R6. I will be watching it again and again until it becomes second nature!
Why not eye detection under the *
Awesome tips! I recently picked up the R6, upgraded from a 9 year old cropped sensor and im blown away. I'll be adjusting my settings to your suggestions, these tips are a game changer, and so it's this new system.
I’ve set up my Sony A7iii like that. Back button AF on one button and Eye-AF on another. I never go back. Next thing to learn for former DSLR shooters is to expose with Histogram and Zebras only (in real time not after the fact). We don’t need the exposure meter anymore. This new method is faster and more accurate and it’s been used by videographers for years.
I use this method on my 1Dx MKII. AF-ON is set AI Servo and single point AF and the * button is set for AI Servo and expand AF. I shoot sports and I find this combination great when I shoot players portraits and action. Great tip for those that don't know or don't read the Canon White Paper
I use a 1DX ii and didn’t know about this feature. I just use the AF on button. I got a R6 ii now as well I set up dual back button focus for it but without customising the function. I’m going to do it for both cameras now 👍
Brilliant! Just upgraded to R5 and shooting my first wedding at the weekend, you've just made my life so much easier. Thank you!
This was one of my favorite perks when I got my R5 over the EOS R. It makes life SO much easier, having as many as FOUR autofocus modes right at your fingertips!
You are a bit late with this one : Jan Wegener did this a year or so ago. He does spot metering on the AF button.
Before the arrival of the R5 and R6 I could do spot metering and area (bird in flight) with my 7D2 on separate buttons.
This is the definition of game changer. I got accustomed to it so quickly and it feels like stepping back 20 years without this capability.
I have been using back button auto focus for years, and on my recent purchase of the R6, I also started using the star key for eye detection. To just learn that I can also use the star button for focusing, and eye detection is awesome for a bird photographer. Thank you so much for that tiny little detail on the some what hidden menu option!
Hi! I'm really confused how to customise the star button function on the Canon R6. I'm looking to shoot constantly using back button focusing with eye tracking most of the time and every so often switching the eye tracking off. I have changed my settings in the menu, but it still seems to be using eye tracking with both options. Do you know and how I can fix this?
I"m Canon at work and Nikon at home/side and I discovered this setup (probably via another video) a while back for my R5 and it's hands-down the way to go. Absolutely the best of both worlds and lightning fast. I use a similar switching technique on my z6ii going AF on for eye af and hitting a front custom button to switch to subject tracking, but it's not as quick or intuitive and as everyone knows, Nikon hasn't QUITE gotten all the way there with their af, but that's probably the best setup for that system.
I've always used the shutter button for focus/firing and don't mind it. I did try back button focus but my small hands made it inconvenient. I've now changed back focus to the star button which is much more comfortable. Thanks David
This was like the greatest advice I’ve ever heard in my entire life. Great presentation.
I have been using back button focus for years now, and indeed, I would not know how to focus in any other way. I am new to R5, and just set up the star button for eye detection/tracking next to the usual bb autofocus. Just fantastic ! thanks for the tip !
Personally I don’t mind having the shutter button have metering and af. It keeps my thumb free to move the focus point when I need. I have the AF-On button set to eye autofocus. Once I let go of AF-On it immediately switches to one shot where I have the ability to use my thumb to quickly move the focus point and my pointer finger will do the job of quickly focusing and taking the shot.
Exactly how I have mine. Makes way more sense.
Same here. Eye auto focus on the shutter button and use my thumb if I want to focus on something else. The half press to start and hold and track a subject isn’t difficult or complicated like he makes it sound. He also described back button focus exactly the same as front button focus.
I had to do this on my mark III and I actually hated it, always pressing BBF with the thumb. I also like your method, keep thumb free!
I have AF-ON programmed to AF-OFF so that in the few instances I want to recompose or prevent the camera from refocusing, I deactivate AF. This has the added benefit of activating MF peaking (highlighting) so that if there is a bird behind a branch or whatever I can focus on it. I have the other buttons programmed to spot and tracking and the DOF programmed to cycle through af modes. BBF is useful in certain cases and it's easy to program C2 or whatever for it but when the camera can track a moving subject, why take the chance of being out of focus when half press assures it will be in. Even Steve Perry has commented on this since he's shot the Z9.
Do you guys have any tips for displaying or hiding the composition grid lines quickly? Is there any shortcut please? 😊
This is awesome. I didn’t know The info button had more options! Thank you
I will use this. 🙏
I'm a Nikon shooter, but this tip fits perfectly! Thanks a lot!
Do you mind , Otávio, asking how did you set up an additional button for Aye/Face detection? Using Af-on for back button focus for ages but to have aye/face extra would be great
hmm. so I went back to this video to try out the techniques mentioned in this video. it is super super amazing! however, there is a slight issue with it in that when using this technique, it's very difficult to switch from eye to eye or subject to subject. when you have the eye detect AF by default, you'll see a box around an eye with a left arrow and a right arrow. by tapping left or right, you can switch to the other eye. you can also switch from person a to person b. but when you use the technique in the video, it'll pick the eye automatically and it's hard to switch eyes or people. the only way is to kind of whip the camera and hope it grabs the right object. So this could be "fixed" by flipping it around and having the eye detect AF as the standard and using the asterisk to switch to a different AF (like single point). But like David said, the issue with that is that you can't manipulate the position of the single point and you won't see the single point until you press the asterisk. So now I'm in a quandry. I guess I can get used to having the single point AF in the center of the frame. I thought about moving the point to a different default position. When you switch between AF modes, it usually saves the position of the AF point. However, when using the asterisk method, it always defaults to the AF point being in the center.
Thanks. I had not noticed the info-button options when programming *-button. Thanks for that hint.
However, you have a ready setup for eye-autofocus on the button customization menu where you can do the same easier for any button.
I personally use a 3 button Back button focus setup. 1) Af-on for eye-autofocus, 2) * for for metering&AF start (which activates the focus method i have selected, e.g. zone, see below) and then 3) the AF point button where i use "register/recall shooting func" which has been programmed to activate single point focus (behind info, select only AF method=single point, tracking sensitivity and accel/decl tracking to whatever you want and AF operation ON). Then i use the extra ring on objective to select my AF method (important for BBF button 2). This setup is really awesome (learned it from Whistling Wings Photography RUclips channel).
thanks for sharing this tip! I'm new to Back button focus. I just changed a bunch of settings for a wildlife trip up to Maine this week and was deliberating whether to do eye AF or not... I love the capability of being able to toggle back and forth so quickly without having to go back in the menu.
Really helpful. I tried back button focus once before and hated it. But have set up my R5 as David has set out and will see how I get on. Thanks!
I just did it. Thank you 🙏 my friend. I’m a canon shooter R6
Strictly hobbyist here. I'm in between cameras and can't decide between the Canon or Nikon right now. But this piece of information is going to be a massive boost if I go for Canon as 90% of my shooting will be sports. Thank you for this.
Thank you. Just got it set up like you suggest and went out in the garden to take pics of the dog to test. Worked a dream. Thank you.
Great tip. My Canon R6 arrives on Monday; it is my first full-frame digital camera. Right away I will set the star/asterisk button as you explained.
Found this by accident when looking for something else and glad I watched it. A year with the R7 and three months with R6 and I never realized the AF setting within custom buttons had another layer. (The R7 has even more options). Great that you can choose what is affected by either focus button and what you want controlled by other buttons (in my case, I like Servo/One Shot, as well as focus areas (in most cases) to be changeable on the fly. Anyway, thank you!
This is the best way I’ve seen use this feature on the R5 & R6! I’m adjusting my settings pronto 🙏🏾
I was looking for this feature since the first day I got the new R6 in my hands, thank you very much for this helpful video!!
Hi David, having received an R6 a couple of weeks ago I set up the focusing as per this video. I used it in this mode on wednesday to shoot a music event, having come from a 5D3, it was a revelation! I also hear a lot of grumbling on social media about the images/colour rendition etc not being that great, well I have no idea what people are talking about. I edited about 40 jpegs yesterday, which hardly needed any adjustments etc so, for me I think there are many plusses! Thanks for the clear set up advice, I'm now just waiting for everyone to get back out on the road!
You're a jpg shooter? How do you have your R6 set up for jpgs? I've had the 5D, 2, 3, 4 all set up similarly to produce a beautiful jpg that needed very little editing (provided light was good!)...I only got the R6 yesterday so about to start looking at that next!
I have a canon r5 now and have a bunch of nikons and have been shooting them for years but the eye af is not as good as the R5. The sony did not fit my hand as well so I picked up a R5 to try for a year before changing systems. I programed my z6ii front button to switch to to subject tracking as eye auto focus is not good enough but I could have chosen eye auto focus as well. I just got tired of missing shots so I spent some money. I have had it since the end of june and have probably done 12 shoots with it and I have also shot my nikon side by side and the hit rate is incredible. Thanks for this information. It will make my switch to Canon even easier. I just went into the menus and adjust it. I love my r5 and wish Nikon second gen z cameras were as good. I like the color better but that does not do enough if it is out of focus. They work on landscapes but the hit rate on the r5 is out of this world. This just made it better.
Super Helpful tip and a great explanation of it, thanks Much!
I've been using it this way since I first got the camera. I really like it this way especially when taking pictures of my daughter that's all over the place.
This has been hugely helpful for me, watched your video 6 months ago and set the camera up accordingly.
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for this excellent tip. Always enjoy your videos. 👍
David, thank you. This was a complete game changer today at a soccer tournament.
5 STARES- THIS GUY ROCKS ! FIANLLY A PERSON WHO STATES TECHNICAL SOLUTIONS WITH GREAT COMMUNICATION SKILLS, WITH AN " EXPERIENCESD WORKING PHOTOGRAPHERS MIND-SET " - HE IS PROFESSIONAL
fantastic tips!
Insanely helpful. I cannot wait to try this with the r6 I will be evaluating during a volleyball tournament this weekend. Thank you, such a great cheat code!
Thank you, David. This was the best explanation of several I've watched on this idea which is golden for my kind of photography with the R6.
I use a slightly simpler approach by using the “Initial servo AF point” option to always start with a single fixed AF point that I leave in the upper part of the frame (as you do) where faces and eyes are usually found. This setting stops the camera from trying to guess what you want in focus (Canon seems to prioritize eyes, faces, then nearest object.). With this approach, I can use the exact same approach for faces, objects, whatever. If I want the face in focus, just put the AF point on the face, start focusing (BBF or shutter button, doesn’t matter), and reframe as desired. If I want something other than the face/eye in focus, just start with the AF point on that. Even if there are also faces in the frame, it will stick to the object. This works great for almost everything I shoot. For times it does breakdown, I have a button customized to toggle between Servo and One Shot.
I use exactly the same here so the AF doesn’t try to lock on to a “wrong” subject. Makes the success rate much higher than using the whole of the focus area rather than just 1 point
I did the other way around and love it since day one I bought the R5 2 years ago. Came back to leave a comment. Thanks for your videos. I subscribe a long time ago and always look for your videos. Keep them coming.
I definitely am going to set this up and try it. Thanks!
Wonderful advice. Changed my R6 to match what you suggested. What a difference it has made! Thank you!!
I shoot Canon and have started using the back button. I am learning and practicing.
Game changing is NOT an understatement! I changed all my settings now and saved it to my card (thanks Canon!). And also a BIG thanks to Steve Brazill for the Q!
Thanks. Very helpful
If you're not going to change any of the settings after pressing info, you can actually just change (*) to eye AF and achieve the same thing.
Does it work if i am in single point af mode? Can i still assign a button to immediately switch to eye af?
Not quite the same thing when using back button focus. That eye AF setting will not activate the focus on the star button and will only work if using the shutter button to activate the servo motors.
@@HwL01 Sure - you can have the normal AF-ON button set to any focus mode you like.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto @David Bergman there are two eye buttons. One is a toggle to turn eye AF on and off and the other one achieves exactly the same thing you describe in the video.
@@MikMilman correct. Easier with your method but good instruction to know about the info button. I ended up using that knowledge on another button :)
Thanks for the excellent tips. Really appreciate it.
This is a game changer for me.
I shoot sport almost exclusively, and my C1 and C2 settings are locked into the exact same settings, except one is One Shot and the other is Eye.
Now I have an extra custom setting! 🎉
Great video! Steve is awesome! I was on his show! Cheers!
Just got myself an R6...this setting is killer!!! Thanks!
David, truly excellent tip duly set up under custom 1 on my R6. I routinely missed a moment, while reconfiguring even just the rotary C1-C2. Now I just move my thumb. Many thanks.
Sounds very useful tip. Thanks for the Video David !
I remember having a similar eureka moment with the 5D4. That extra menu is available for focus style, albeit without eye focus. I have had mine set to AF-On for standard single point shooting and the * button for full tracking when people/kids/animals start shifting about. The R5 seems to be better at just about every aspect over the Mk4 from the million videos I’ve seen and what I’ve heard. My Walllet is shuddering more every day😆. Thanks David. 👍
And wouldn’t it be cool if you could customise the small function button to switch eyes? I saw you mention that as a trade off as you don’t have two thumbs to select the correct eye with the joystick at the same time.
Very helpful and informative, Thank you so much!
What an awesome tip, I was breaking my head how to do EXACTLY what you just showed.!
Perfect David, thank you for the tutorial..
This WAS a game changer. I was confused on this camera. You clarified beautifully.. Thanks!
Awesome Thanks for this
Another super helpful video! You da man!! Thank you 🙏🏼
We're now on 1.4 version firmware and things are quite different. Would really be great to get an update on setting up the back button focus. Thanks David.
Very useful. Just changed my R6 to mirror these settings. Thanks!
Hiya! I too am using the R6 and I'm really confused how to customise the star button function. I'm looking to shoot constantly using back button focusing with eye tracking most of the time and every so often switching the eye tracking off. I have changed my settings in the menu, but it still seems to be using eye tracking with both options. Do you know and how I can fix this?
The single best video I've utilized for my newly purchased r6. Thank you!
great tip. Thanks
This is how I have mine set up. I LOVE it.
I was a bit confused by the title. I thought it was a way to switch to eye-controlled focus and back button. The video was great! Lots of great tips.
Great explanation. Thanks. I do this on an R6. I am new to the camera and I'm experimenting, especially with the autofocus features, including back button auto focusing. I have the system in servo all the time. I have the AF ON button set to my normal AF method (generally spot) and "meter on". As to the Asterisk button - in the first menu you come to when changing button settings - before selecting the "info" sub-menu - I choose Face Detect. I don't have it set up to meter, it just goes to Face Detect which activates eye detect system. I think the only real difference is that when I use the asterisk button it does not turn on the meter. My habit is to start with the "meter on" button which meters and focuses using spot. Then, if I think the situation is suitable for eye detect, I hit the asterisk button. Sometimes, with moving subjects like birds and such, I find that the eye detect system works better if I first focus with spot AF, and then switch to eye detect. But, I don't want the exposure to change mid burst. So, I don't want the asterisk to meter. But, seeing how you do this - I am considering whether I might be better off with both back buttons set to meter and focus. Have to think on it. Does anyone know - if you are in servo, and you hold down the focus button that is set to meter on and focus, does the metering start to change your exposures from shot to shot if you shoot bursts? I am often in manual mode with auto iso. I am often using this shooting birds etc.
For your main shutter button try changing that to the 3rd option (AE lock, while button pressed). That way once you get your exposure set, press and hold main shutter button half way. As long as you keep it pressed down half way in between burst shots and do not release it fully it will stay locked regardless of what you do with your focus. With the shutter pressed down it will not be “over ridden” even though the BBF buttons are set to meter start. I am using a R6 and this holds true.
A very informative tutorial for this new R5 owner. Thank you .
Omg thank you so much! I had watched other videos and thought that I had everything set up properly but I still wasn't getting the "tracking" that I was hoping for with my R6. Turns out I just never switched the first setting with the shutter button! So excited to be able to unlock this now!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks. Very usefull. on my R6 MKII I set the * button to switch from L and R Eye as i mostly photograph portraits.
@11:13 you can just scroll down to the bottom right and select eye-af right from the menu, no need to press the info button and change it there.
You can do this on most Nikons.I I have been using this for years, it works on the AE-l/AF-l button work exactly the same as you have explaned in the part one
I got my first R5 back in February and this was one of the first things I setup, I’m surprised that more people don’t know about it and use it because it is awesome
One of the best videos I seen in the auto focus settings, thank you
I used to be a back-button focuser on my Nikon DSLRs. When I moved to the Z7, I started off that way, but with eye focus detect, I have switched back to shutter button focus. I mostly do portraits in. I would definitely use back-button focus and continuous focus if I were doing action photography
Thank you David for this straight forward easy to understand video. Such great advice for part time photographers that don't want to make auto focus and eye detect too complicated. I recently upgraded to the R5 and set up the 3 button focus methods as recommended by Whistling Wings. Made my head explode and took my concentration off of the shot. I am switching back to your recommendation.
I have been using this technique for a while. I learned it from the Whistling Wings RUclips Channel. I have all 3 buttons set to different focus methods. But you did a great presentation.
Thank you David for this straight forward video. So great for part time photographers that don't want to make auto focus and eye detect too complicated. I recently upgraded to the R5 and set up the 3 button focus methods as recommended by Whistling Wings. Made my head explode and took my concentration off of the shot. I am switching back to your recommendation.
Hiya- do you use Canon R6? I'm really confused how to customise the star button function. I'm looking to shoot constantly using back button focusing with eye tracking most of the time and every so often switching the eye tracking off. I have changed my settings in the menu, but it still seems to be using eye tracking with both options. Do you know and how I can fix this?
Love my Canon cameras! Planning to buy the NEW R6 soon! Thanks for the GREAT idea David! Keep Rocking!!!
I use the top button on the right to change from I af so I can use my single point faster when not shooting people or when shooting detail
Fantastic. This is so helpful and I as feeling so lost.
Just got my R6 and couldn't be more excited. This answered literally the first big question I had about the camera: how to quickly change between spot AF and Eye AF. The way you set it up with the shutter half-press focus disabled is a HUGE help! Quick question: why do you use expanded spot AF instead of spot AF? Doesn't that risk having the camera pick the wrong spot to focus?
Thanks just set this up and will try it. Been struggling with eye focus on newborns when they are asleep, so this makes more sense to me.
I just changed these setting to your recommendations and yes this is a game changer. Thank you
This is a game changer! Thank you!!
Nice video. I honestly hadn't noticed the "info set" button so I learned something from you for sure
I always used BBF on my 5DMIII, so switching to the R6 was frustrating to me, trying to go between people subjects and macro photography! THIS IS SO HELPFUL! Thank you David! 🙌🏻👍🏻
David, I picked up my R5 4 days ago and set my BB focus up Exactly like that (although I reversed the buttons like you mentioned). The "AF On" however doesn't give you the "Info options" like the * button does for some reason (??) Great Video! CORRECTION: I figured it out - the "Info" option only shows up when you select "Metering & AF Start", and not "Eye Detection AF".
Good catch. And the info option only shows up on the AF-ON, and * button. Unfortunately it does not work on the 3 button over (the focus point selection button).
Thank you 🙏 David. This will be a great help. I only shoot Canon as a hobbyist. Recently got R5 and like to use it’s autofocus to its full capacity. I like to shoot wild animals now started shooting birds.
I’ve gone to a triple back button focus for wildlife. I put the AF button to eye/af, the star button to zone and the MF button to spot. Then I set my Depth of Field button to cycle through the AF modes. Game Changer!
Nice! But I think my head would explode trying to remember which is which during a fast moving shoot. :)
Thanks for this info. Great tip..
Legit genius!! I was seriously struggling with focusing. Thank you. Thank you. And thank you. 😊
I use an R, and my mfn button is set to switch between single point, and face/eye. Then the slide bar on the back, I have set to tap left and it will toggle between eye/face.