Cordless DIY Car Battery Tender
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- Опубликовано: 11 апр 2024
- Corded tender: amzn.to/3vT5i9B Solar charger: amzn.to/3PZHHuS Battery adapters: amzn.to/3IYHWlK Case: amzn.to/4cCQ09E
Buck Converter: amzn.to/4awtNIf Digital gauge: amzn.to/4czFGis
Switch: amzn.to/4csa1iS Splice terminals: amzn.to/4afuwOu
Spade terminals: amzn.to/43z8hAp
Let's make a simple water tight cordless car battery trickle charger. I'll let you know how it's working down in the comments. 
Авто/Мото
Lead acid appear to prefer a float charge voltage of ~13.5V where current eventually reaches near 0. And the easiest path to low voltage cut-out looks to be running a Ryobi or Ridgid battery which have an internal cut-off, Ryobi probably wont fit in the current case at least standing up, so Ridgid it is! Stupid simple.
Here's the car kuby thing: amzn.to/49Egapw
Some of the Ridgid batteries also have BT monitoring, you can get an alert on your phone when they hit the 10% low charge threshold so not only are they protected but you have a reminder that you need to grab it and throw it on the charger =)
Came here to say the same, if you intend to leave the battery alone then use a low voltage cut off, or a battery with low voltage protection built in.
Do you happen to know if the voltage cutoff applies to the Ryobi 40v as well? I have a bunch of those that I only use in the warmer months.
@@jozak78 yes, all the TTi stuff has the smarts on the BMS, Hart/Ryobi/Ridgid/Milwaukee. The only one I wouldn't be sure of is Ryobi's 4V line, not sure how much protection there is in those given they're not that much bigger than an 18650 cell (though the M12 BMS is pretty sophisticated for being coin sized).
What did you use for LV cutoff, I don't see it in the description?
"So now he can drive his babies even less than he already does and have even more project cars" It's the humorous commentary that adds that special touch that most lesser channels are lacking. PS The project car struggle is real...
Man, I am lucky to get a pair of socks as a gift.
It would be nice to see you start a corded grinder rank chart. I'd like to see the difference between an expensive Milwaukee grinder and a $10 harbor freight grinder
That's this video: ruclips.net/video/5z47EWoqvJ8/видео.html
@@TorqueTestChannel I didn't see it on the Excel sheet, did I just miss it?
@@rockfordlandwehr2999 Since it's one episode worth of data, it's all in that one episode. But we can make a corded tab (edit: just need to gather more data like vibration readings to fill it out)
I would love to see more corded grinders tested. Please! Particularly the rat tailed version of the 10-13amp, 4.5"/5"/6"versions from Hercules, Dewalt, Metabo (Germany), Makita, etc.
Great Job! Love your videos!!!
Keep em coming please
For your LV cutout, I’d recommend using an op-amp and a transistor. It’s a pretty simple circuit to make and can be wired in a way that it takes itself out of circuit once the LV threshold is hit (no quiescent current after triggered). The cutoff you have now uses quite a bit of power because it’s keeping a relay coil energized at all times until it cuts power. If you’d like to try the op amp circuit let me know and I can make a schematic for you.
Please link to a schematic and parts list for your version
Tried commenting the link on my PC but doesn't seem to post. Trying on my phone now. docs.google.com/drawings/d/1UPVN0dd0dWMlLERcgKvK-5vuQsHkPLgCHrvIeVfGw34/edit?usp=sharing
@TheXxRenzxX that circuit will forever draw power through your R2+R3 divider and overdischarge the V1 battery
@@toolscientist you're right, my mistake. That should be connected to the output of the transistor, not VCC.
@@TheXxRenzxX Also the reference (R1 + Z1) which draws more current than the divider. Unfortunately moving the voltage sense to the output is problematic, the use of the N channel MOSFET means you are losing a couple of volts (i.e. Vgs), and the exact voltage will be dependant on the load current and the specific transistor you are using. The input offset current of the LM358 (at least a genuine one) is very low so you could simply increase the divider resistors by an order of magnitude at least. A better choice may be a P channel MOSFET driven by a micro-power comparator e.g. TLV170x.
i like this concept. the solar panel and a 15,000 mah 6s lipo RC car pack for those not so sunny winter days, all in one unit.
Even though I have AC power available for a car that does not move much, I bought the solar charger shown at 2:00 as I don't want to have an extension cord running through the driveway. We will see how long it lasts. Hopefully, it will last a few years at one-third the cost of a new battery.
Video idea: Test
If you park facing the right direction without a car cover you can keep the solar panel inside the vehicle. Ice and water won’t kill the panel, but it might get too hot inside the car in warm weather.
It was a emergency situation, but was surprised when I was able to jump a full sized 350 with a HF Bauer battery pack, using nothing more than alligator clip and 12 gauge wire
1:11 Being an East Coast guy, sometimes I forget that CA is massive, and not 100% of the land area is made up of Southern California, and parts get below freezing 😅
Even socal gets ice and snow, 1.5hrs drive from sunny beaches. Plenty of other drawbacks however lol
LOL "Plenty of other drawbacks"
“Drawbacks” that’s what we’re calling it these days. 😂 🏃♂️
@@TorqueTestChannel 1.5 hours, so like 12 miles?
@@TorqueTestChannel Drawbacks might be the understatement of the millennia 🤣
Suprised that Milwaukee doesn't make something like this already. They make EVERYTHING.
I actually like this a lot because I don't have to run cords across the garage.
Milwaukee doesn't make everything. I have an idea for a new product but I cannot get them to reply. They are not interested
Thats why this is my fav yt channel. The experiments and tests you do are always interesting and full of useful information. Keep up the great work!!
I like it! One thought is some TTI specials with the likes of Ryobi, Ridgid etc. The packs will cut the pack power with Mosfets for Low Voltage Protection. Even the 40V packs will (not a fan of 40V). The Hyper Tough 12V will also, not sure about their 20V stuff. That way you don't have to have a Low Voltage Cut Out board so much. I have a video showing a latching circuit used in conjunction with the board also that will protect the pack from pulled to zero if forgotten and left connected. That will of course pull more current draw with a relay being used as holding contacts. I enjoyed the video!
Yup, Ridgid and Ryobi have low voltage cut offs internal to the battery. Dewalt has it in the tool.
Poor man's battery tender: just have one battery you swap between vehicles. Guaranteed to increase back problems.
Neat!
I made a little tool adapter that slides onto a dewalt battery and then gives you big ol alligator clips to connect to something. I used it to jump my car in emergencies.
Jumping your car with 20v? That seems brave lol
@@SomeGuysGarage car batteries and most car electronics are pretty resilient the biggest issue is drawing a ton of current from a power tool battery. 20v x 200A = 4000w and that 200A metric is on the low end of cranking amps some mid size trucks require north of 600A to turn over. Using 200A isn't usually a problem for the actual batteries in the power tool pack but the connectors can start to melt from the heat.
@@ndragon798 from my research, dewalt packs are good for 50ish amps in the 5ah size, so that's only 1000 watts.
@@SomeGuysGarage50A continuous. You can pull 100-120A before hitting low voltage (12.5V)
I've already assembled 3 of these. With and without the LVCO. Thank you!
Milwaukee do badly need to make some kind of starter/charger with a big capacitor so it doesn't kill off the main battery.
Could be on to a winner here, if certainly buy one.
AGM batteries really hate going flat and often short out and become unusable when that happens. I have a couple of almost new Optima Yellow Top batteries which are dead as door nails, pulled from a genset which the Army mothballed for about two years before I bought the genset. Uncle Sam disconnected but never charged the two batteries. I tried for weeks to run the desulfate cycle on my charger to fix the batteries to no avail.
I got a so-called 50 Watt flexible solar panel from eBay for a friend who drives her car very little. Based on the surface area, I believe an honest rating is around 15 Watts, still plenty to keep an AGM battery charged with a few hours of sun per day. The solar cells are backed by fiberglass. The unit even came with little suction cups to mount it _inside_ the car’s rear window. I lengthened the jumper wires included with the panel so the panel could be left clipped to rear mounted AGM battery while stuck to the inside rear window. So far the panel is working to keep the battery topped up. I doubt the panel has a very advanced charge regulator, but at least it seems to have a Schottky diode to prevent the battery from discharging into the panel in low light / night. She just leaves the solar panel in place and drives as needed.
Having a connector instead of outright flying leads coming out of the box will be better. For a low voltage cutoff you can be lucky if you can find a transistor switched board than a relay one. A DIY approach would be a TL431 based circuit, a schematic in the datasheet. (Figure 10-12, Voltage Monitor)
A more sophisticated approach is a push-pull output comparator that will compare the input voltage (through a resistor divider, a multiturn potentiometer) to a reference voltage (a Zener diode or a capacitor bypassed resistor divider) which will drive a MOSFET (here is why push-pull comparators is best) to switch power on when the comparator sees a voltage higher than reference, and turn the MOSFET off when that voltage goes below the reference. Happy tinkering!
you should be able to get bms style boards that have low voltage cutoffs and no relay using mosfets instead, parasitic draw can be in the microamps for those
This is the awesome content we are all here for. Can we get a gas powered now one though?
Chainsaw powered battery tender 😂
It's called a generator lol most have 12v outputs for maintaining batteries.
@@volvo09 That could actually work. Would need a little generator attached, an e-starter and a microcontroller. The controller could start hte the chainsaw motor whenever the car battery drops below a certain voltage and charge it up to the upper cutoff voltage.
But then again, one might actually have the controller turn on the car engine from time to time to top-up the battery. Just make sure to park it out of gear.
Actually looks really sweet..... Nice job.
Love the blooper at the end.
The LTC 3780 has everything you need. It is a buck-boost converter and has a built in low voltage protection. And you can adjust the max current.
This is perfect for my truck since I spend most of my time on ny bike. Might try and make one over the weeked
You guys are awesome 👍🏻
You're a good brother, thoughtful gift
That was cool! This should be a product I can buy.
Y’all are awesome!!!!
What I use is the typical battery charger that is also able to so CV and not only CC combined with a cheap powerstation.
Just this week I bought one with 300wh and 300w 450w peak for 100€.
Works fine so far.
Bit small when the battery is really drained but then I'll use my lithium jumper, start the car and let it run for 10 minutes. In the first few minutes the alternator will dump a huge amount of energy into the battery. Sometimes 50a+
I was just looking for one of these
Very curious of the project car under the tent... Carbon Fiber bumper insert?
Either way I am happy to see a Toyota enthusiast, honestly no surprise there... You guys are clearly focused on practicality and longevity.
ive done one of this with 3dprinted makita battery and build in 100a bms so i have the low voltage cut off. i bought a cheap 10a buck and im running it at 2a. Every weekend i change the makita battery with a fresh charged one and i haven't paid attention how long the battery last, all i can say is that it worked fine for me in the winter.
Never had a car die from spiking it directly with 18v, have done it on 20+ different times on 15 cars and they are all perfect. If it’s going to be sitting for a while I just disconnect the battery. Left a car for over a year like this and batt was 9.8v when we tested it, reconnected and jumped it with a 8ah Bosch pro core to start and let the alt do its job. Car and battery are still fine
My truck sits outside in the sun, snow and whatever Wyoming weather year around. I use a cheap solar charger connected with wire and a fuse. It is small and sits on the dash. As long as I keep the snow clear it works well. I ran the wire to the battery, it gives me a second power port when driving and charger point when parked. Not perfect, but it works. I have used it in my 1994 S10 Blazer for 15 years. I live in an apartment with no plug ins and no cover. My truck sits for a week or two at a time and it fires up immediately. Use a fuse... Don't burn your vehicle down.
if you have usual 18V drill battery with full charge - you do not need anything else. Just connect it to 12v car battery with wires strong enough not to burn immediately (2.5mm usually ok, heats but survives) and wait for 3-5 mins, done. It will be 15-20-30A (depending) charging current, in 3 mins the main battery will crank strong enough to start.
I have a little 12/16/20 volt lithium jump starter pack but it uses a proprietary charger and of course has to be charged. It does not charge batteries well but instead seems focused on a short burst of power otherwise the electronic governing body becomes upset and limits power. I’ve often thought a jump start pack or better yet something I could plug in and let top off a battery for say a few hours would be a better solution for my fleet of equipment and cars. All of this is a long way of saying that I think this is a pretty good idea.
This is actually useful for me, I run a LiFePo4 in my summer car and it's got a max of 3-4 days of sitting without the float charger until it's too low to start. Weighs 3lbs because racecar but not good if you don't drive it often and you're away from home. I did get a solar panel that should suffice but that's no good in a garage or shady spot. This would be great for trips when I'm staying somewhere for a few days at a time doing non driving things.
Side note, I had those same terminals he has on that Toyota and they're garbage long term. They don't made good contact on the posts and caused more no starts than anything else, super frustrating! The name brand 3x more expensive but looks similar terminals are actually very good and gave me zero problems over several years of use.
Hey TTC
It would be absolutely awesome if you could test the new Milwaukee MX fuel stuff, especially the cutoff saw, Vs petrol equipment!
It was bought out to replace petrol engines due to constantly tighter emissions regs in EU.
Keep up the great work, hello from London!
I recently purchased an adapter for the 20v Dewalt battery off Amazon that has a built in low voltage cutout that, to the best I can tell, has no parasitic losses. Unfortunately it is listed as unavailable (maybe sold out?). But, at least that sort of thing is out there.
That's pretty cool!
Which one was it?
Cool i like it 😁.
Maybe a video like this once a month be great . Testing torque is great though but a variety here and there is nice.
Jump box and compact hot shit type jumper tests would be pretty cool
I can vouch for those solar panels. I have 4 of them and they’re over a year old.
DeWalt already makes something like that (but much smaller, about the size of a power stack). Only problem is the batteries don't last long, and when a battery dies, the tool has to sit for a day or so before it can be used again.
Nice concept, and while I'm a "HERCULES" user and a big fan of their 20V line, I was highly disappointed that you did not conduct testing with "THE BEANS".
Sorry, fellas, but the best idea for this situation is the one that I use... powerbank, with a 120v outlet and a standard battery tender. You can get a power bank for around $50 and a tender for about $30. Besides, a really good power bank, about $200, has a ton of uses and comes in handy all the time. Not to mention, that for a few bucks more you can get a solar panel as well.
It's so weird, seeing a video of you outside the regular studio set makes me think you might not just be a disembodied sentient pair of hands
I’ve always wanted a cordless trickle charger that you could mount in the engine bay like a jump starter but while the car is running it can recharge the trickle charger and then when the car sits it trickle charges the car battery.
Just run two batteries like a diesel (or cars with large audio systems) then I would think, same sort of idea
@@TorqueTestChannel I have a single cab short bed obs ford. I’ll have to look and see if anyone else has done that as well. Not sure where I’d put another battery except in my tool box but I don’t want to sacrifice the already limited space I have.
You could also use power tool battery Inverters to power a normal mains voltage trickle charger, Craftsman's 20V 150W Inverter for example, i believe Dewalt also has one.
Did to ac to dc to charge dc though
@@TorqueTestChannel You might be thinking of a full size inverter like the ones Dewalt has, look up CRAFTSMAN V20 Power Inverter and you'll see what im talking about. As long as the power draw is under 100w (150w is peak) a 120v AC-DC trickle charger and other such things would work just fine.
Unless i misunderstood what you said
Nice project, keep this sort of content up. After seeing your test vehicle with the pigtail out the front I noticed a fair amount of carbon fiber....now I want to know what that was.
I’d really like to see the follow up ball joint press video, or at least the additional ones tested added to the rank list
Ah, didn't realize you'd be staying in Japan for so long. I would have suggested you visit MAX airtools with one of thise F1/F2 guns. They can hit the PSI requirements and they offer fast filling and multitank setups that could make for a practical replacement to bottled n2.
Maybe even make it functional for shop usage...
@torquetestchannel What thermal imager are you using?
Sweet!
Maybe you can review the Dewalt DXAEOBD battery maintainer
You should test out the new seesii grinder
I feel your brothers pain. Nice 22re he has. Toyota addiction is real
Narrator "a decent gift in my case."
Video:"sets down his case."
Well done.
Can you test the dewalt corded power supply for 20v tools? Wondering what it can compare to in terms of battery size
Geez bro I hope this footage was shot before you left for Japan. There’s no way you don’t end up on the no fly list trying to get something that looks like that through customs. 😂
Does that oil-fill-hole cap give it more HP?
I am, in fact, always looking to tackled at an airport! Where can I get one of these!?
ryobis have a built in lvc so this would be a super easy project if you use ryobi batteries!
Hey that's not a bad idea, Ridgid too I believe
Einhell do too
You could probably get away with a MOSFET or an opto-isolator with such low current draw, requires a bit more electronics knowledge but there might be modules out there
In my experience opto-isolator would be a good choice, tiny chip can handle a few amps, and has a sharp threshold voltage, so just choose the right resistor to put on it and should work potentially drawing less than 1mA
Can you please make a video has been the torque of tools sent in by viewers? I am a plumber in my impact of been dropped off so many ladders I’m surprised it’s still in one piece. I would like to know if I have damaged it or if I’m somehow breaking it in, and it’s becoming stronger
Honey badger solar panel, the real hero
Batteries might die, but that 22re never will lol
Cool project! I like when y'all get to have some fun in the shop and make awesome shit!
Any plans on testing the snap on ct9038?
i feel like instead of clip leads using a cigarette lighter would be easier and allow you to keep the trickle charger in the vehicle out of the elements.
You would want to make doubly sure its not connected while cranking because it would probably blow the fuse for the cig lighter, but you could also think of that as a secondary protection to keep from over drawing your little trickle charger.
Not all cig lighter circuits are constant-on.
Most domestic are, (Jeep wasn't, though, but they may have changed). Most Japanese aren't, and it's a toss-up with other COOs.
Good place to use a Ridgid battery. Low voltage cutoff is built into the pack.
I'd be curious how things go with a tool battery connected to that brand's A/C inverter (most have them available these days) connected to a typical A/C powered batter tender. For those who don't want to get out the wire strippers, etc.
The ego 400 watt pad1500 looks sweet and you can charge your ego battery using a usb c charger cable too!
Yes, but DC to AC to DC to charge a DC battery is a lot of losses stacked for no real reason and would likely only last a day or two.
What the hell is that voice that comes in at 7:36 ?!? I have my earbuds in and it sounded like someone was right behind me! 😂
As an automotive locksmith I would like a cordless battery maintainer while programming keys/fobs. I haven't found anything yet.
What minimum battery voltage do ECU/ECMs need to see before allowing programming?
That’s actually a complete located question that is going to be very ecu specific, sometimes it is set in the programming software or the ecu but frequently is not defined. 12V is a good guideline.
@@Slicerwizard I have no idea. Sometimes we get cars that were sitting and the battery is low or dead. I just want something that can keep it at 12v for up to an hour that doesn't have to be plugged in and doesn't have a shutoff feature like my NOCO jump box. I am basically looking for a cordless Topdon 9000 that also isn't $700. lol
@@scotts4125 gel type motorcycle battery and some jump leads?
@@scotts4125 Older booster packs have full time 12V at the jumper leads. Some larger booster packs have a lighter plug designed to provide continuous 12V for some accessory loads. You could also just pick up a 10-20Ah 12V gel cell and bolt on some short jumper leads. Use a small battery tender or regular charger to top it up between uses. Or plug it into your work vehicle's lighter plug to recharge. A gel cell is a pretty inexpensive solution.
Possible to use obd plug with low amp voltmeter connectors
Yep. I have a small solar panel that floats the 12V battery through the OBD2 connector. (Unlike the lighter socket the OBD2is always hot. You can’t push a lot of current through the OBD2 connection, but certainly enough to float the battery and take care of. They always on things like keyless entry and alarm.
The panel suction cups to the inside of the windshield.
VW used to put these on cars during shipping to keep the battery from dying.
Can you please make a video about battery powered pressure washers?
you need higher voltage from the buck converter to charge with more amps or it will take forever
Would this help a battery that’s so far gone that jump cables won’t work?
No.
What year Toyota is that? I am looking for a 1985 sr5 Xtra cab with as few modifications as possible. Preferably a southern or western area that's never seen salt.
Good luck. In Cali, used Toy/Dat/Niss pickups have a half-life on Craigslist of about 30 minutes. They get snapped up by gardeners or sent to Mexico, no lie, I have helped buy three of them over the years for a painter. If you don't show up first or second in line waving cash, you're sorry outta luck.
@@pault151 if you have any tips or tricks on how to score one of these please let me know. The plan is to restore it to close to original as possible
So Torque it appears to me that your vehicle is a S197 Mustang, is that correct? If so have you found that even with regular care the batteries just unexpectedly fail randomly? Mine is 12GT and every two years or so the battery just randomly up and quits and then refuses to take a charge. Ford, AC Delco, Interstate, Die Hard, they’ve all done it. I’ve tried to find better batteries like an AGM but to no avail. Die Hard has one listed on their site but according to multiple stores around me, that battery does in fact not exist. You got any thoughts or experience on this? I’m an auto tech by trade and I like to think I know a thing or two and I’ve checked everything I can think of on the car and have yet to find a fault anywhere on it. The batteries just seem to die for some reason.
I'd check the alternator health. But yeah, I'd say a little more than on other vehicles. Yellow top* Optima with its higher voltage might do the trick though (13V or so)
@@TorqueTestChannelredtop optima is good, but still the same voltages as any other lead acid.
@@-FOXX Sorry, yellow is what I mean. Which are usually 13V + when 100% if memory serves
Walmart offers 4 year free battery replacement and might be worth consideration.
@@TorqueTestChannel Diode ripple and output is totally fine. Load tested without issue on both the original and currently installed boss alternator. Had my scope hooked to the battery while driving for about a week taking recordings and looking for anything abnormal, found nothing. As previously stated, I replaced the alternator not because the old one was bad but I wanted the boss alternator and my AC compressor seized so I was going in there anyway. I installed the boss alternator “upgraded” power line but honestly I couldn’t see any difference to the one I already had. Same gauge, near enough the same weight, same size strands, same resistance using a Hioki milli ohm meter, no change when flexing and pulling on it. Pulled a 200 amp load through it and measured the voltage drop across it, if I recall they were both less then a .75 volt drop. I’ve added additional grounds from the engine to the chassis, engine to battery, chassis to battery, I could go on but I think you get the point. Not that I’ve owned a ton of vehicles over the years, 5 total counting my Mustang, none of them have had batteries just up and die so consistently and usually without warning like the S197 does. It’s not a huge deal, I always have a jump pack in the car, and as others already pointed out, I can warranty the batteries, just really want to know why it happens. My GT being a very base model with only three options means there’s not a ton of electrical load to begin with but Ford did spec a pretty small battery for it.
The good old 22RE.
what kinda car is under the cover?
I'm not sure I get it. In the end, aren't you just increasing the reserve capacity of the battery by 5-10 amp hours. Wouldn't a 12v,~18AH UPS or booster pack battery be much simpler and accomplish the same goal for less money? Maybe your brother just needs a new battery.
Please can we get a test on the Ingersoll Rand IR-599A1 NEW 3.5" IMPACT, it puts out 26000-42000 foot lbs of torque
I have had to replace car batteries because they fail in winter,that would be fine if it wasnt so damn cold.Would be cool to use one of these when its cold to make sure my car will start on those really cold days with a older battery that only fails to start the car because its so cold..
I made 2 of these the first one the voltage step down went up in smoke and the second just stopped putting out any voltage. I thought it was a really good idea but in reality the drok regulators are not made the best.
I saw that 22RE
Ok so modification to this, how about making a way to charge 18V tool batteries? I have not looked on Amazon yet.
I just got this solar charger , been using it for 2 days and has not brought up my voltage. Not happy with unit
Pesty drill bits …must have been uncle Bob drilling
fuck... can't believe I never thought of this
What happens when the car battery is at 14.5ish volts but the buck convertor is set at ~12.65 volts?
will it do nothing, or try to bring down the car battery?
The only time the car battery would be at above 12.8V is while running, with the alternator turning. So you wouldn't need this if this car was running, and it's designed to send current one direction anyways so shouldn't be all that eventful.
That’s what the reverse charging protection is for. I imagine it should do nothing.
@@TorqueTestChannel My daily driver car stabilizes at a higher voltage than normal, but only carries a charged 75F & 2ah lithium battery. That saved over 30 pounds!
i'm thinking about something like that for when it is not my DD.
2:20 Because 12 V lithium-ion batteries don't exist, they're 10.8 V with a 12V sticker on it.
12.65 is too low, your batteries are sulphating at that. Float voltage is around 13.8 and will draw some small amount of holding current and prevent sulphate formation. You might not know this, but sulphate formation starts the second you stop floating. Ie any level of discharge. It's worse at lower states of charge, but always present unless floating or charging. One of the many shit things about lead acid is how long the tail of charging takes. For any short trips only user, the starter takes X capacity out in 1s then the alternator puts some back in quickly but the short trip doesn't last nearly long enough to complete charging. As such batteries in cars like these, read, most cars, are always degrading with sulphation.
We need to see more of 3/4 inch air guns to bring the beans up. And to see how they compare to corded ones.
It has been brought up before... it's a big investment in support tooling, for a slightly niche market. Typically 3/4" stuff is built for a market that won't tolerate slouch performance, and the tools are also priced accordingly.
It hasn't been brought up before. Only that they couldn't test due to their air system not suplying the right amount of pressure the pneumatic tools needed, but were working on it. Sure they are expensive but as big of a market as all the corded 3/4 guns they've tested out there.
Which is not such a niche market after all.
@@Visionariuso in that same conversation, I think he also had a concern about the test-rig capacity/durability.
Might be better to set the cutoff voltage higher. 3.0V is very low for a lithium battery, especially when it might sit at that voltage for days in freezing weather. That’s pretty much a guarantee for battery damage.
They are cutting the voltage at a total voltage of 15.2 volts. Or about 3 volt per cell. It's a pretty standard safe low voltage state.
Just a though why not add a second voltage meter and have 1 for internal battery and one for car battery? that way it's easy to check both and if you use the same one as you did they can be turned off.
Agreed, hadn't assumed it'd need to reroute it and bypass the voltage cut out, but that's probably the best plan in its current state.
@@TorqueTestChannelHonestly I'd still have it even with the low volt cutoff because then you can just tap it and check the battery voltage and see if you need to swap without opening it up and checking the battery gauge etc.
Of course Rigid and Ryobi batteries having that built make it even easier lol.
Where’s the link for the Useless Box? 😅
Maybe just run your favorite corded battery maintainer off an inverter and your choice of battery. Maybe an old car battery removed from service -- but could still run something like this a long time between charges. If you forget to recharge and ruin it, it was junk anyway. No loss.
That’s a pretty nifty idea.
One problem with inverters is that they use quite a lot of power at zero load. Smaller ones are better. But I think a USB only one would probably be most efficient.
22RE 😍😍😍😍😍
You should use 14.4V to charge car battery!