I have a blk on blk 107, Had car for 20 years, dont worry about degreeing the cams, just get the 4 degree offset keys and advance both cams, car idles so much smoother and pulls hard off the bottom. and have tons of vacuum, you'll love it.
I did install offset woodruff keys. A master mechanic who has built over 1,000 of these engines told me exactly how to do it. I did a video on it: 560SL - Installing Camshaft Offset Woodruff Keys ruclips.net/video/hpSMK-2Z8E0/видео.html
Hello my friend, how to install the oil pump. Do you have a video? You are a wonderful mechanic. I admire you very much. I have learned a lot from you😊😊
@@kalfoogaltmimi5043 that you for the comment. Of course I have a video or two about the oil pump. If it is on or in that engine then there is a video about it somewhere. What I have tried to do is put videos in playlists to make it easier for people to find what they are interested in. In this case your answer is in the The M116, M117 Oil Pump playlist located here: ruclips.net/p/PLQAW1udK_cOj6BksK13thWm8iMJjJeZDD
Hey Tony! Enjoying your video, Thanks for the level of detail you are providing! It’s a great tutorial for a beginner!!! What is the tool you use to pull the chain guide pins? Thank you in advance for your answer! Brad in Phx
The tool I am using is the genuine MB guide pin removal tool. Here is a much cheaper version that is supposed to work: amzn.to/3SQRpjF There is another tool by JTC Which is more like the one I have: amzn.to/3UZd8sx
Hi, thanks for the video. You've first checked that your timing were aligned, but just after when you put your wooden stick in in order to simulate a tensioner, that moved your sprocket/cam CCW which made the timing marks not aligned. Did you do something to get your marks aligned again?
What really happened is that I turned the right cam sprocket to the right just prior to putting the drumstick in the tensioner hole. I did that so you could see how much slack is in the chain and why it is important to get everything tight and aligned. When I applied tension to the chain it put my timing marks back to dead on. The key is to make sure slop in the chain is on the right side where the tensioner is. Otherwise the chain is tight from left to right cam sprockets and the crank pulley. I hope this makes sense.
I did not purchase a kit. The chain is Iwis. I had a friend of mine press in a link using the Mercedes-Benz chain link tool. The guides are Mercedes. The chain tensioner is Febi which I will be replacing with genuine Mercedes-Benz. I hope that answers your question.
Hey there, question on the tensioner guid , is there any trick removing the tensioner guid pin , I removed the little star head bolt and tried pulling that pin with magnet as per the manual but no luck , how fare deep that pin goes? I appreciate any tips thanks
I hope this answers your questions. I remove the upper guides & timing chain tensioner in the engine teardown #2 video: ruclips.net/video/LsZyYpdpX00/видео.htmlsi=4WaS57btcdiyq9lg There is a timeline on each video which should help you find what you’re looking for. And I remove the front timing cover and lower guides in the engine teardown #4 video: ruclips.net/video/pKP_zAuv05E/видео.htmlsi=HB6T4Sa4BveOcYB_
Hey there Tony unfortunately no answer there , but I already figured it out ,let me complement you on #2 that was also a on great video to watch very informative. Have a good one buddy @@TonyLiveTV
@@mb1motors I’m sorry I didn’t answer your question. I wasn’t sure what a tensioner guide pin is. Everything came apart easily for me. I own the special tool for pulling those retainer pins on the upper guides. The lower guides basically fell out after removing the front cover. The oil pump tensioner has a c-clip that holds the that guide.
Its quit alright Tony the tensioner guid pin all the way down to the bottom of the engine have a plug screw that first you remove and then the manual say pull pin with a magnet but there is no way you can pull it that way so what I used is a cluster puller tool and pulled it with that and it worked fine.@@TonyLiveTV
Hello I'm doing an engine replacement for the first time I've got a 380sl r107 m116, I was wondering what size & length bolts did you use to Mount the engine to the engine stand?
The bolt holes on my engine block are about 27mm deep & the stand’s bolt holes are roughly 70mm in depth. I believe I used M10x95mm. That said, the Harbor Freight stand does not allow enough space to clear the flex plate so you will need to remove it. I recommend you measure because these engines are heavy.
Tony, you don’t know how timely this video is. It’s helping me troubleshoot and fix my 500SEL engine! Thanks and keep it up. 👍
Thank you matey,very much appreciated,well done,I Love Old Mercs,full stop,Absolutely magnificent cars!
Thank you Tony for this great video it's a must see for anyone looking to perform this service to his car.
Thank you Kyle!
I have a blk on blk 107, Had car for 20 years, dont worry about degreeing the cams, just get the 4 degree offset keys and advance both cams, car idles so much smoother and pulls hard off the bottom. and have tons of vacuum, you'll love it.
and FYI, dont turn 116 or 117 engine over backwards, chain will jump.
I did install offset woodruff keys. A master mechanic who has built over 1,000 of these engines told me exactly how to do it. I did a video on it: 560SL - Installing Camshaft Offset Woodruff Keys
ruclips.net/video/hpSMK-2Z8E0/видео.html
Thanks learned a lot
Hi mr.tony your all information are very good
That engine looks so good. Getting there.
Did I tell you that soon your car is going to start!? Great job, Tony, just keep it up!
I’m getting closer!
Hello my friend, how to install the oil pump. Do you have a video? You are a wonderful mechanic. I admire you very much. I have learned a lot from you😊😊
@@kalfoogaltmimi5043 that you for the comment. Of course I have a video or two about the oil pump. If it is on or in that engine then there is a video about it somewhere. What I have tried to do is put videos in playlists to make it easier for people to find what they are interested in. In this case your answer is in the The M116, M117 Oil Pump playlist located here:
ruclips.net/p/PLQAW1udK_cOj6BksK13thWm8iMJjJeZDD
Hey Tony!
Enjoying your video, Thanks for the level of detail you are providing! It’s a great tutorial for a beginner!!!
What is the tool you use to pull the chain guide pins?
Thank you in advance for your answer!
Brad in Phx
The tool I am using is the genuine MB guide pin removal tool. Here is a much cheaper version that is supposed to work: amzn.to/3SQRpjF There is another tool by JTC Which is more like the one I have: amzn.to/3UZd8sx
Hi, thanks for the video. You've first checked that your timing were aligned, but just after when you put your wooden stick in in order to simulate a tensioner, that moved your sprocket/cam CCW which made the timing marks not aligned. Did you do something to get your marks aligned again?
What really happened is that I turned the right cam sprocket to the right just prior to putting the drumstick in the tensioner hole. I did that so you could see how much slack is in the chain and why it is important to get everything tight and aligned. When I applied tension to the chain it put my timing marks back to dead on. The key is to make sure slop in the chain is on the right side where the tensioner is. Otherwise the chain is tight from left to right cam sprockets and the crank pulley. I hope this makes sense.
Cómo colocar el distribuidor en tiempo
Please look at my video playlists. Here is the information you are looking for: ruclips.net/video/COt6SdZfCMs/видео.htmlsi=SuHuUr6jFnnjjoDz
Where did get the kit from sir?
I did not purchase a kit. The chain is Iwis. I had a friend of mine press in a link using the Mercedes-Benz chain link tool. The guides are Mercedes. The chain tensioner is Febi which I will be replacing with genuine Mercedes-Benz. I hope that answers your question.
Hey there, question on the tensioner guid , is there any trick removing the tensioner guid pin , I removed the little star head bolt and tried pulling that pin with magnet as per the manual but no luck , how fare deep that pin goes? I appreciate any tips thanks
I hope this answers your questions. I remove the upper guides & timing chain tensioner in the engine teardown #2 video: ruclips.net/video/LsZyYpdpX00/видео.htmlsi=4WaS57btcdiyq9lg
There is a timeline on each video which should help you find what you’re looking for. And I remove the front timing cover and lower guides in the engine teardown #4 video: ruclips.net/video/pKP_zAuv05E/видео.htmlsi=HB6T4Sa4BveOcYB_
Hey there Tony unfortunately no answer there , but I already figured it out ,let me complement you on #2 that was also a on great video to watch very informative. Have a good one buddy @@TonyLiveTV
@@mb1motors I’m sorry I didn’t answer your question. I wasn’t sure what a tensioner guide pin is. Everything came apart easily for me. I own the special tool for pulling those retainer pins on the upper guides. The lower guides basically fell out after removing the front cover. The oil pump tensioner has a c-clip that holds the that guide.
Its quit alright Tony the tensioner guid pin all the way down to the bottom of the engine have a plug screw that first you remove and then the manual say pull pin with a magnet but there is no way you can pull it that way so what I used is a cluster puller tool and pulled it with that and it worked fine.@@TonyLiveTV
Hello I'm doing an engine replacement for the first time I've got a 380sl r107 m116, I was wondering what size & length bolts did you use to Mount the engine to the engine stand?
The bolt holes on my engine block are about 27mm deep & the stand’s bolt holes are roughly 70mm in depth. I believe I used M10x95mm. That said, the Harbor Freight stand does not allow enough space to clear the flex plate so you will need to remove it. I recommend you measure because these engines are heavy.