Few notes: B500 is probably a self resetting fuse on the 12V line I think this is 4 layer, otherwise where are all the vias on the bottom that have no plane atttachment or traces going? Copper is 0.5mohm/square for 1oz... likely the IMS is a 2oz board, so the scale of the PCB resistances are in the 0.25 mohm region due to the areas between shunts and the busbars/phases. This is quite a small loss. The diode on the MOS gates is either a zener clamp on the gate, or could be being used to do faster turn off than on... hard to tell. The tiny 0402 thing on the gates is either a capacitor (for damping/decoupling gate ringing) or it could be a pull down to keep the MOS off when the gate drivers are in UVLO. Some gate drivers go high impedance output when UVLO and then the MOS gates float up until... pop. Conceptually, it is a really solid design; I made some very similar boards this way and posted them on ES (back before anyone was doing IMS VESC based boards). They perform really well, but there are subtleties with the gate drive and current sense circuits when using 2 board designs that it is not clear have been addressed here. Proof in the pudding though, if it pushes power and stays alive then all good.
You are probably right about it being at least 3 if not 4 layers. I didn't think about the vias in the top most layer not coming through to the underside. Thank you for the correction.
question Is sabvoton controller so sorry you don't even talk about them besides you mentioning them in little bit in different segments I see that you have tore down most popular ones I've been hearing about and I was on the fence on getting far driver but now I think you have convinced me to get one 😂
Sabvoton controller failure rates are quite high since the company closed up shop in late 2014. Everything since then has been clones and most of those are quite poor. No new development in any way has been done to anything Sabvoton related since 2014! It's pretty damned dated and only good Sabvoton products are all from before they closed up shop about 10 years ago! FD is at least current development and for China controllers...better than most others. Honestly though, this spintend is still better than a Far Driver assuming your power requirements match up. VESC is always best and that's unlikely to change!
@@de-bodgery thank you very much for the info did not know sabvoton went out of business since 2014 and everything else has been cloned so that means my controller is not really a sabvoton controller good information to know 🤔 so needless to say I'll be switching to a far driver controller as soon as possible thanks again You may want to do a segment on that so that people will know Amazon is selling not regulated stuff at a very high price way more than far driver I'm thinking and NBpower is behind it. Using the name to make money off of us non money having people lol thanks again keep up the good work really enjoy your video so far been very informative...
@@lowdownbrown2002 I've run across 4 or 5 variants/clones of the old Sabvoton controllers. Some are better than others, but none have seen any new development since 2014.
I have the Spintend 85/250, Do you know anyone who has a smooth running hub motor like a qs205 using this controller or any VESC. I have yet to find someone who can run VESC with ebike hub motors without a rough startup and acceleration when sensorless, and no info on HFI for large motors. They run well only at higher erpm
The Shunts are the hottest part of the board. Take a thermal camera to it. Wires are a great heat sink compared to just a PCB. I get you are putting yourself out there with these videos but by making definitive statements about stuff you don't actually know makes you look bad to those who actually do this kind of thing. From the perspective of a semi-ignorant audience member definitive states make you seem like an expert. You need to allow form more nuance and make concession when you don't really know things. Also those are nickel plate copper bus bars and very easily sourced.
Thanks for the feedback. So you know for fact that the buss bars are nickel plated copper or you are assuming they are? Do you have proof of this? I wasn't emphatic what they were as I don't know.
Uhhh...no...not even close to correct! "Cheaper is better" is a Chinese mantra! They do everything the cheapest way possible. Their cars, their buildings, their roads, you name it...al done for the lowest cost and quality they can get away with!
@@de-bodgery cmon I run a Amazon store myself and if I increase the cost sales will drop cus no one Wana spend high dollar. So I am forced to turn my quality down. If people are willing to pay then quality of course will go up.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Few notes:
B500 is probably a self resetting fuse on the 12V line
I think this is 4 layer, otherwise where are all the vias on the bottom that have no plane atttachment or traces going?
Copper is 0.5mohm/square for 1oz... likely the IMS is a 2oz board, so the scale of the PCB resistances are in the 0.25 mohm region due to the areas between shunts and the busbars/phases. This is quite a small loss.
The diode on the MOS gates is either a zener clamp on the gate, or could be being used to do faster turn off than on... hard to tell. The tiny 0402 thing on the gates is either a capacitor (for damping/decoupling gate ringing) or it could be a pull down to keep the MOS off when the gate drivers are in UVLO. Some gate drivers go high impedance output when UVLO and then the MOS gates float up until... pop.
Conceptually, it is a really solid design; I made some very similar boards this way and posted them on ES (back before anyone was doing IMS VESC based boards). They perform really well, but there are subtleties with the gate drive and current sense circuits when using 2 board designs that it is not clear have been addressed here. Proof in the pudding though, if it pushes power and stays alive then all good.
Thank for your comments. Pinning your post.
You are probably right about it being at least 3 if not 4 layers. I didn't think about the vias in the top most layer not coming through to the underside. Thank you for the correction.
T4 is a 1N4148W fast-switching diode. I think it's there to bypass the gate resistor on discharge
Keep your head up bro, glad to see you are still making videos despite the situation
Situation?🤔
Thank you! As always good job! I hope you're slowly doing better...👍
another banger video
question Is sabvoton controller so sorry you don't even talk about them besides you mentioning them in little bit in different segments I see that you have tore down most popular ones I've been hearing about and I was on the fence on getting far driver but now I think you have convinced me to get one 😂
Sabvoton controller failure rates are quite high since the company closed up shop in late 2014. Everything since then has been clones and most of those are quite poor. No new development in any way has been done to anything Sabvoton related since 2014! It's pretty damned dated and only good Sabvoton products are all from before they closed up shop about 10 years ago! FD is at least current development and for China controllers...better than most others. Honestly though, this spintend is still better than a Far Driver assuming your power requirements match up. VESC is always best and that's unlikely to change!
@@de-bodgery thank you very much for the info did not know sabvoton went out of business since 2014 and everything else has been cloned so that means my controller is not really a sabvoton controller good information to know 🤔 so needless to say I'll be switching to a far driver controller as soon as possible thanks again You may want to do a segment on that so that people will know Amazon is selling not regulated stuff at a very high price way more than far driver I'm thinking and NBpower is behind it. Using the name to make money off of us non money having people lol thanks again keep up the good work really enjoy your video so far been very informative...
@@lowdownbrown2002 I've run across 4 or 5 variants/clones of the old Sabvoton controllers. Some are better than others, but none have seen any new development since 2014.
Awesome review
Hi mate I’m in real need of some photos from the back of a hall sensor inside the ko motor I need to find out what colour wires go where
I have pics of my motor taken apart, but not this. If it's not in my FSPEC tear downs, I don't have it.
Markerbase 84200 ... :P please
75200 as well. I have 2 of these on my electric ZTR and they're working fine. Just wish the killswitch and brake could be 2 different functions.
feel free to get one and send it to me. AFAIK, Makerbase is one and the same as Flipsky...same products 100%.
I have the Spintend 85/250, Do you know anyone who has a smooth running hub motor like a qs205 using this controller or any VESC. I have yet to find someone who can run VESC with ebike hub motors without a rough startup and acceleration when sensorless, and no info on HFI for large motors. They run well only at higher erpm
Is the connector pin still jst 2.0? Thanks for the answer 😊
If you got a few more subs recently may be because I used a few of your clips on my ch page
How many amps does this controller produce at 75V? 200? I couldn’t find the information anywhere, and the official website doesn’t work.
"Spintend 85-250" and discussing it in the video pretty much says it all.
很不错❤
Their website has stopped working for a long time, which is strange.
works for me
@@de-bodgery In Russia they cut off
@@vova4585 Yeah...get a VPN...plenty of those for free or cheap so you can circumvent your tyrannical government and hide your internet traffic.
兄弟太棒了😂
what maximum voltage this controller can handle ?
spintend.com
In general, a spintend can be a higher quality product than a flipsky.
Yup...agreed...said that several times in this video.
Lots flux everywhere and the caps are not soldered properly lol 🤣
The Shunts are the hottest part of the board. Take a thermal camera to it. Wires are a great heat sink compared to just a PCB.
I get you are putting yourself out there with these videos but by making definitive statements about stuff you don't actually know makes you look bad to those who actually do this kind of thing. From the perspective of a semi-ignorant audience member definitive states make you seem like an expert. You need to allow form more nuance and make concession when you don't really know things.
Also those are nickel plate copper bus bars and very easily sourced.
Thanks for the feedback. So you know for fact that the buss bars are nickel plated copper or you are assuming they are? Do you have proof of this? I wasn't emphatic what they were as I don't know.
The only why Chinese factories cut cost is only cus people aren't willing to pay lol. BLAME THE CONSUMERS
Uhhh...no...not even close to correct! "Cheaper is better" is a Chinese mantra! They do everything the cheapest way possible. Their cars, their buildings, their roads, you name it...al done for the lowest cost and quality they can get away with!
@@de-bodgery cmon I run a Amazon store myself and if I increase the cost sales will drop cus no one Wana spend high dollar. So I am forced to turn my quality down. If people are willing to pay then quality of course will go up.