1 thing i'd say mate is you dont actually want much, if any current going through your screws... stainless/steel is a shitty conductor in any case and any thermal expansion there is going to loosen the clamping force on the lugs... forcing more current through the screw... and so on... not likely a huge difference but still, not a path you want current going though, given its effectively the 'spring' of a spring terminal in this situation. Only going to further impeed the current path by using locktight anyway, though im sure most gets squeezed out of the actual maiting surfaces (at least on 1st application while its still 'wet').
Stainless isn't a great conductor...no question there! I'll be using brass screws. They are conductively better than stainless. They aren't as strong, but this isn't a joint that needs to hold a lot of force. It needs to make a good electrical connection so brass screws will be just fine. Screw them down tight with loctite in the threads and they will hold for a very very long time without any loosening. The loctite will squeeze out of the threads as they press against each other and won't effect thread to thread conductivity.
@@Razorcrew_Cole Yoiu need precharge,,,plain and simple. Don't have it and that big zap when you plug up the battery is just damaging the entire EV. QS8 or QS10 both do precharge in the connector so that's a good option, otherwise you need it some other way so you bring up the electronics to pack voltage gently.
@@de-bodgery okay interesting so is this something that I would have needed to be doing with Kelly Or is it inside? Normally I just have that spark when I plug in my battery but not when I turn my key on and off so I assume it does?? So I haven't ever really learned about it I guess appreciate the knowledge man
@@Razorcrew_Cole Kelly doesn't have built in precharge. No one does. That spark is going to kill your EV eventually. I've lost a controller the first time I plugged it in without pre-charge.
@@de-bodgery You're kidding me?! I have about eight builds I've had for over about 4 years now still no issue been doing it that way forever haha 🤷🏻♂️ so no one's doing this and you're saying I should have this involved in my wire harnesses for far driver, flip sky, and Kelly kits?!
Hey buddy, those look like bigger than M6 bolts on the top for connection to motor and battery..? Are they do you remember?
M6
@8:00 oh well, just get a lasercut steel bezel to fashion your own ears. anyways i broke s many DB ears back in those days
Actually...makerX watched my videos and they are aware of this detail and planning to change it for future G300 controllers.
1 thing i'd say mate is you dont actually want much, if any current going through your screws... stainless/steel is a shitty conductor in any case and any thermal expansion there is going to loosen the clamping force on the lugs... forcing more current through the screw... and so on... not likely a huge difference but still, not a path you want current going though, given its effectively the 'spring' of a spring terminal in this situation. Only going to further impeed the current path by using locktight anyway, though im sure most gets squeezed out of the actual maiting surfaces (at least on 1st application while its still 'wet').
Stainless isn't a great conductor...no question there! I'll be using brass screws. They are conductively better than stainless. They aren't as strong, but this isn't a joint that needs to hold a lot of force. It needs to make a good electrical connection so brass screws will be just fine. Screw them down tight with loctite in the threads and they will hold for a very very long time without any loosening. The loctite will squeeze out of the threads as they press against each other and won't effect thread to thread conductivity.
list specs of ctlrlr and url for purch
Feel free to look that up yourself.
I want all my new controllers to be FOC and VESC if possible
Wow Flipsky should ship a precharge resistor with all their controllers
okay so the cabling situaton is a bit of a nightmare
Wow that really confirmed it that you started the video off saying that 😮😮😮
Wait can we talk about pre-charge for a second...? What exactly do you mean that we all need it??
@@Razorcrew_Cole Yoiu need precharge,,,plain and simple. Don't have it and that big zap when you plug up the battery is just damaging the entire EV. QS8 or QS10 both do precharge in the connector so that's a good option, otherwise you need it some other way so you bring up the electronics to pack voltage gently.
@@de-bodgery okay interesting so is this something that I would have needed to be doing with Kelly Or is it inside? Normally I just have that spark when I plug in my battery but not when I turn my key on and off so I assume it does?? So I haven't ever really learned about it I guess appreciate the knowledge man
@@Razorcrew_Cole Kelly doesn't have built in precharge. No one does. That spark is going to kill your EV eventually. I've lost a controller the first time I plugged it in without pre-charge.
@@de-bodgery You're kidding me?! I have about eight builds I've had for over about 4 years now still no issue been doing it that way forever haha 🤷🏻♂️ so no one's doing this and you're saying I should have this involved in my wire harnesses for far driver, flip sky, and Kelly kits?!