Mattew, I tore my 350 back down this morning and found the bar oil leak. I don't know if I've mentioned it before but it was leaking oil before, but it is MUCH worse now. The leak is around the seal on the bar oil reservoir. It starts under the muffler, about 1 inch in front of the cylinder, goes down the back edge, the along the bottom about 1/2". I think I made the leak worse when I was prying the crankshaft bearing cap off. There was a small gap under that side of the cap and I used it for leverage. Unfortunately it was prying down on the weak side of the case. Might want to mention in future videos to pry sideways or from the back corner instead of the front one. Hope it helps someone out. LOL I can't get the 2 sections apart. Tried some acetone in the tank to degrade the glue but no go. So I'm going to try some JBWeld. If that doesn't work, I'll try soldering them together with a high temp heat gun or soldering iron. If that fails, I guess I'll be looking for a 346 case. thanks, Ken
I really enjoyed this video; I know next to nothing about chainsaws and you explained things very clearly. I am tearing down my 350 to replace piston and ring, loss of compression when warmed up. Do think I can get away with just changing out those pieces and gaskets?
Nope....full teardown for sure. Its much more peace of mind. Gotta diagnose why the piston ate itself. Lots of other 350 stuff on my channel. Go through it...take notes and then ask questions
Nope....full teardown for sure. Its much more peace of mind. Gotta diagnose why the piston ate itself. Lots of other 350 stuff on my channel. Go through it...take notes and then ask questions
How did I get so lucky... Here is another 350 with no apparent oil leak... Do I have the only one in existence that leaks from the little grey "strainer" there on the bottom?
@@matthewolson8875 No problem Matt. I am going to put some 1184 on mine in such a way as I think it will still oil but not leak. I must say I have not been able to find a video on how to fix an oil leak like mine on a 350 Husky. I will keep looking. If you hear anything let me know.
I mean, for the low cost of these saws, and the extreme hassle and expense of repairing, rebuilding (considering this is one of the most cold-blooded saws out there, and not worth the effort) - You're money-ahead just to use this thing up and pitch it away after it dies. Consider the cost of hiring an Arborist or tree removal expert at $1000 - $4000 depending on size of your never-ending growing trees. These saws cost a few hundred new, and much more in parts to fix. Just use 'em a season or two, then buy another one. You're still money in the bank.
Although I completely agree with the "still money in the bank" comment... I'll have to disagree with "not worth the effort" Many saws are indeed disposable, and I totally get that. Hiring a tree guy is cost prohibitive for most people...but then again, so is an ER visit, or a tree dropped on a house. Lotta issues here we could delve into, but we'll save that for another day. My husky 350's have become my favorite saw....when done right, they aren't cold blooded at all. Mine starts easy and is a pocket rocket with all the mods i've done to it ...and it'll embarrass most of the german stuff or any other stuff in its class.... "not worth the effort" is a comment that I would consider an emphatic statement of opinion... it may not be worth it to you ...now...., but after you try one that is done right.... ya might just change your mind. True, these saws have issues, and need attention in specific areas...but once done right, they rapidly become a favorite. Also, to mention... these are rapidly gaining excellent aftermarket support... for better or worse. Likely parts will be available readily for a long time to come. That may not be important to you, and I do understand that, but it for sure it important to me. Thanks for the comments and keep them coming :)
David Shively there are lots of them in the usa...being scrapped. Usually you can pick one up for cheap....2 grand or so. Moving it is tricky though because its so heavy
Mattew, I tore my 350 back down this morning and found the bar oil leak. I don't know if I've mentioned it before but it was leaking oil before, but it is MUCH worse now. The leak is around the seal on the bar oil reservoir. It starts under the muffler, about 1 inch in front of the cylinder, goes down the back edge, the along the bottom about 1/2". I think I made the leak worse when I was prying the crankshaft bearing cap off. There was a small gap under that side of the cap and I used it for leverage. Unfortunately it was prying down on the weak side of the case. Might want to mention in future videos to pry sideways or from the back corner instead of the front one. Hope it helps someone out. LOL
I can't get the 2 sections apart. Tried some acetone in the tank to degrade the glue but no go. So I'm going to try some JBWeld. If that doesn't work, I'll try soldering them together with a high temp heat gun or soldering iron. If that fails, I guess I'll be looking for a 346 case.
thanks, Ken
customcutter100 I think I have a 350 case if you want one :)
customcutter100 email me... Mattyo5. At. Aol. Dottt.....com
I really enjoyed this video; I know next to nothing about chainsaws and you explained things very clearly. I am tearing down my 350 to replace piston and ring, loss of compression when warmed up. Do think I can get away with just changing out those pieces and gaskets?
Nope....full teardown for sure. Its much more peace of mind. Gotta diagnose why the piston ate itself. Lots of other 350 stuff on my channel. Go through it...take notes and then ask questions
Nope....full teardown for sure. Its much more peace of mind. Gotta diagnose why the piston ate itself. Lots of other 350 stuff on my channel. Go through it...take notes and then ask questions
Thank you, I enjoyed the breakdown.
On the piston ring which way the top and bottom
How did I get so lucky... Here is another 350 with no apparent oil leak... Do I have the only one in existence that leaks from the little grey "strainer" there on the bottom?
I looked for a strainer but I don't have one handy ...without taking apart one of my 350s. Sorry.
@@matthewolson8875 No problem Matt. I am going to put some 1184 on mine in such a way as I think it will still oil but not leak. I must say I have not been able to find a video on how to fix an oil leak like mine on a 350 Husky. I will keep looking. If you hear anything let me know.
I have a 350 that leaked from the grey strainer. I put some liquid gasket stuff around the edges and it quit leaking
Can't do much with the intake unless you know how to port the rubber intake boot thing.
Your right...the intake boot is only so big and I would not recommend grinding on it personally.
I mean, for the low cost of these saws, and the extreme hassle and expense of repairing, rebuilding (considering this is one of the most cold-blooded saws out there, and not worth the effort) - You're money-ahead just to use this thing up and pitch it away after it dies. Consider the cost of hiring an Arborist or tree removal expert at $1000 - $4000 depending on size of your never-ending growing trees. These saws cost a few hundred new, and much more in parts to fix. Just use 'em a season or two, then buy another one. You're still money in the bank.
Although I completely agree with the "still money in the bank" comment... I'll have to disagree with "not worth the effort" Many saws are indeed disposable, and I totally get that. Hiring a tree guy is cost prohibitive for most people...but then again, so is an ER visit, or a tree dropped on a house. Lotta issues here we could delve into, but we'll save that for another day. My husky 350's have become my favorite saw....when done right, they aren't cold blooded at all. Mine starts easy and is a pocket rocket with all the mods i've done to it ...and it'll embarrass most of the german stuff or any other stuff in its class....
"not worth the effort" is a comment that I would consider an emphatic statement of opinion... it may not be worth it to you ...now...., but after you try one that is done right.... ya might just change your mind. True, these saws have issues, and need attention in specific areas...but once done right, they rapidly become a favorite. Also, to mention... these are rapidly gaining excellent aftermarket support... for better or worse. Likely parts will be available readily for a long time to come. That may not be important to you, and I do understand that, but it for sure it important to me.
Thanks for the comments and keep them coming :)
Do u know what is the best numbers for a 359
That question is best on the forums ....someone else can answer that better
Matt how do u tell on the ring which way the top
Not sure what you mean.....can you rephrase ?
David Shively the ring only fits one way in the piston....because of the positioning pins on the intake side. ..they have to mate to that pin
Ty your awesome
Next time, move the bucket under the toolbench while you're working, by golly!
How much does a Bridgeport cost
David Shively there are lots of them in the usa...being scrapped. Usually you can pick one up for cheap....2 grand or so. Moving it is tricky though because its so heavy
OK thanks
Or does it matter?
Thank u for answering me
no problem :)
Good video with really poor audio.