Hi! Mike from Sweden here. Just wanted to comment generally on your videos. I appreciate that you speak kind of slow and that your pronunciation is clear. I hate when someone talks about something interesting and I can't follow it. Many youtubers rush their talk like if the world is ending in 60 sec. Thank you for all your interesting videos and good ideas.
Worth pointing out that the notches are compensated for the thickness of the string rather than being a straight division of the distance between the E strings (which avoids the thicker strings feeling bunched up).
Hi, I was wondering exactly this, for I have a Telecaster and the gap between the B and E strings (the first two) in the nut is slightly bigger than that in the other strings. Is this normal or is it more likely a mistake in the manufacturing??
@@juangabrielruizvillamil3846 Thats why you compensate for the thicker strings rather than equally divide the distance to the centre of the string - the thicker strings feel (and look) bunched up and a wider gap between the thinner strings. Recently I've seen a lot of guitars with equal spaced slots - lots of factories seem to do it.
@@stevejones4618 Thanks! I was worried that the nut of my guitar was faulty. But why the thicker strings closer to each other? I would intuitively have thought the thicker should be a little more spaced.
Wow! What a find! You have helped and inspired me so much. I have all the tools but I feel so much more confident now to use them. You vids are so easy to understand - THANK YOU!
That's exactly the way I do it for my 6-string nuts (equal centers), but for my 12-string nuts I prefer the 'equal gaps' method. I also prefer Zero Glide frets, but make my own Brass nut blocks with the correct neck radius. They all play like butter.
I see a lot of people get their outer strings in place and measure the distance between them then divide it by 5 and mark the nut. Technically, that is wrong. Because as the strings get bigger the gap between them get smaller so you end up with a gap between the high E and the B string being larger than the gap between the low E and the A string. So to be correct you should really use an accurate string spacing ruler. That's my opinion. But opinions vary.
An option: If you mark the positions of the first and sixth string on both sides you don't have to push the string to the side where you want it. But I guess you're so in it that you're right on target and you safe time your way. Thx for sharing. Do you increase the resting area of the strings based on the gauge? Have you ever tinkered with compensated nuts? I like the new kinds of intro music.
I heard some people give the thicker strings more space because, well...they're thicker. Then slightly tighter spaced plain strings. Vs. treating every single string with the same distance. Thoughts?
String spacing is based on the width of the nut. If you try to add spacing for thicker strings, you may not have enough room at the ends of the nut without the high and low e strings getting too close to the edge of the fretboard.
Great, again! I have seen some videos that talk about "aiming" the string toward the tuner associated with that string. You didn't talk about that, but do you do it, or just cut the slots straight in the nut? Thanks again for the great tutorials.
Highline Guitars but it’s not needed though. It’s unnecessarily complicated. Plenty of other nations have gone to space using metric. It’s 2020 mate, not the 1800’s. It’s imperial and not even England use it anymore. Hahaha!
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Hi! Mike from Sweden here. Just wanted to comment generally on your videos. I appreciate that you speak kind of slow and that your pronunciation
is clear. I hate when someone talks about something interesting and I can't follow it. Many youtubers rush their talk like if the world is ending in 60 sec. Thank you for all your interesting videos and good ideas.
Worth pointing out that the notches are compensated for the thickness of the string rather than being a straight division of the distance between the E strings (which avoids the thicker strings feeling bunched up).
Hi, I was wondering exactly this, for I have a Telecaster and the gap between the B and E strings (the first two) in the nut is slightly bigger than that in the other strings. Is this normal or is it more likely a mistake in the manufacturing??
@@juangabrielruizvillamil3846 Thats why you compensate for the thicker strings rather than equally divide the distance to the centre of the string - the thicker strings feel (and look) bunched up and a wider gap between the thinner strings. Recently I've seen a lot of guitars with equal spaced slots - lots of factories seem to do it.
@@stevejones4618 Thanks! I was worried that the nut of my guitar was faulty. But why the thicker strings closer to each other? I would intuitively have thought the thicker should be a little more spaced.
Really good info there! I’ve seen those fret slotting rulers before and never really knew exactly how they worked until seeing this. Thanks!
I've filed a pre-slotted nut but haven't built one from scratch (yet) . this was hepful, thank you !
Wow! What a find! You have helped and inspired me so much. I have all the tools but I feel so much more confident now to use them. You vids are so easy to understand - THANK YOU!
Best explanation I've seen. Thank you much.
That's exactly the way I do it for my 6-string nuts (equal centers), but for my 12-string nuts I prefer the 'equal gaps' method. I also prefer Zero Glide frets, but make my own Brass nut blocks with the correct neck radius. They all play like butter.
Very Interesting Thankyou. This was informative and entertaining Cheers
I see a lot of people get their outer strings in place and measure the distance between them then divide it by 5 and mark the nut. Technically, that is wrong. Because as the strings get bigger the gap between them get smaller so you end up with a gap between the high E and the B string being larger than the gap between the low E and the A string. So to be correct you should really use an accurate string spacing ruler. That's my opinion. But opinions vary.
An option: If you mark the positions of the first and sixth string on both sides you don't have to push the string to the side where you want it. But I guess you're so in it that you're right on target and you safe time your way. Thx for sharing.
Do you increase the resting area of the strings based on the gauge? Have you ever tinkered with compensated nuts?
I like the new kinds of intro music.
Thanks again! Stewmac makes nearly EVERYTHING don't they? 😅
Hello Chris, what is the species of wood of that fretboard? Its beautiful
thank you chris . question please will that ruler work for 12 strings ?
I don't think so.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you
I heard some people give the thicker strings more space because, well...they're thicker. Then slightly tighter spaced plain strings.
Vs. treating every single string with the same distance.
Thoughts?
String spacing is based on the width of the nut. If you try to add spacing for thicker strings, you may not have enough room at the ends of the nut without the high and low e strings getting too close to the edge of the fretboard.
Great, again! I have seen some videos that talk about "aiming" the string toward the tuner associated with that string. You didn't talk about that, but do you do it, or just cut the slots straight in the nut? Thanks again for the great tutorials.
All of my guitars feature straight string pull from the bridge to the tuner so I don't have to angle the slot toward the tuner.
Guess I best be gettin' a string spacing doohickee.
Next you'll need a slotting thingamajig.
Why don’t you guys just go metric FFS??!! 64th of an inch. Wtf?? Try metric, you’ll never go back.
Imperial got us to the moon.
Highline Guitars but it’s not needed though. It’s unnecessarily complicated. Plenty of other nations have gone to space using metric. It’s 2020 mate, not the 1800’s. It’s imperial and not even England use it anymore. Hahaha!
@@HighlineGuitars NASA hasn't used imperial in decades.
Except for PSI because nobody understands Pascals :)