The knife Mr. Stewart is showing in this video is the Ontario Blackbird SK-5. The steel is 154 CM with a rockwell hardness of 58-60 (which means it's hard enough to maintain a razor sharp edge, but soft enough that you can sharpen it in the field). The blade has a perfectly squared spine which enables you to use it with a ferro rod. I have no relationship with Ontario knives and I have nothing to gain by praising the SK-5. But I just love mine.
Great video for the beginner, very well put and clear. I agree with you on most of your points except I would say a drop point will function just as well as a spear point. I love the Ontario Blackbird SK5, it's got all the features of a great survival knife, it's pretty much perfect IMO. I bought it for my dad.
I'm thrilled that I came across you Creek on YT!! I highly recommend your show on The Weather Channel called Fat Guys in the Woods!! Your one show that had featured Rosehips & handmade traps was incredible!! My wife & I learned so much from that!! We love how you show simple survival tips that can easily make a difference between life and death. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
Bruce Nitroxpro Pardon me for chiming in, but I'm sure he means that he would carve a sharp point into a wooden spear, and then harden the wood in a fire. Many outdoorsmen talk about hardening wood that way. I haven't tried it, but now that it came up, it's on my bucket list. Cheers. --Scott
ScottsUtubeWorld You do not "harden wood IN a fire"......that will burn your wood tool up....you harden it in the ground near the fire, but you MUSTbe careful not to bury it too close to the fire or it will still make your wooden tool into charcoal. I know, because I did it on a fish spear that I had worked very hard to carve. Buried it too close to the fire and made it into charcoal which rendered useless thereafter and wasted all my hard work. You want to "heat" the wooden tool, not burn it.
Hey Creek Im loving your new show. I cant believe I watched this video so long ago & you helped me pick out my sk5 & it's my go to still. Thank you for your part in helping me get back into the woods. Ill come camp with you on the show. I almost got the same rig as you. Just not a sheath from Paul maybe one day.
A person can be thrust into a survival emergency whenever they leave civilisation and that can happen at any time and you won't always have that nice big survival kit you take to the scrub. In that case, there's only three features you really need to worry about in a "survival" knife. 1: It's legal to carry. After all, a knife is worthless if it's not on you when you need it and stuck in your backpack or survival kit is not on you. It's the same with your survival kit, which is why I personally carry a diy PSK that was adapted from the list in the SAS Survival Guide. 2: The blade steel has respectable wear resistance and if you're reduced to a folder, get one with a strong lock 3: The blade is at least 3 inches long. Anything else describes an out-of-doors belt knife, not something you can be sure is on you when you get stranded and need to stay alive until rescued.
Thank You; a very reasoned and clear presentation that rings true to me. One of the critics here in this blog complained.... "Don't use your knife for that... that's why I use an ax". That misses the point of a "use for everything" tool scenario. A good Survival knife needs to perform a whole toolbox worth of tasks.
A couple of features he left off. 1. Affordability: If you can't afford it forget it. That includes having a spare if you drop it or can't find it for any reason what so ever. 2. It needs to be able to take and hold a good sharp edge and you need a way to touch up that edge with something you can stuff into a pocket and not notice the weight. 3. If it isn't light & compact you are likely to take it off and leave it at camp or in the car so you don't have it with you when you need the blasted thing. 3. The one tool option is for people doing shows and having fun. Reasonable and prudent people trying to enjoy the wilderness have tool kits and learn how to use them. If you are trying to be a preper forget running off to the woods and trying to live like a wild man. It takes about 7 square miles of decent land to live as a hunter gatherer and you still need a support network of friends and a tool kit or you won't last. 4. There is almost no place in the eastern USA that is more than 10 miles from a paved road. It is all either privately owned or state or federal property. If you aren't disabled getting to a road is not beyond your abilities before you starve to death in about 40 days.
1.) one expensive and decent knife will probably outlast both a cheap one and you 2.) unless you decide you're capable of running off and surviving alone in the wilderness and never look back, there's no way you will dull your expensive, decent knife during daily use before you go back home where someone will restore it for you because you have no clue how to do it. Otherwise, you'll know how to sharpen your knife without proper tools. (I mean, not you personally, but the majority of the "survivalists" watching these videos) 3.) what you desrcibed is camping or paranoia. That's where people bring a truckload of tools and supplies with them. 4.) The only smart thing that I can't argue about. 99% of couch experts will never find themselves in a real survival situation where no help is available. Even if they do, they wouldn't require a knife, their only chance would be if a Bear Grylls take them by their hand and bring them home. :D
Great presentation of basic info. All of the six points are important features and while most knives may not have all it brings people very close to makeing a good choice for a knife that will be reliable and functional if called on. Great job.
wow finally a good knife video explains and shows in detail. other videos were dudes trying to show off there knifes and talking blah blah blah. so thanks awesome vid
Thank you for the video, no hype, clearly presented and reasoned. I have a blackbird SK5 and it is an excellent knife the 154CM Steel used offers excellent all round performance. All that being said my go to knife is the Fallkniven S1 purely because of how it feels in my hand when I use it, I simply feel more confident when using it. Only point i would add is about not having serrations and having a purely plain edge, feather sticking with a serrated blade is a PITA as are many other tasks.
Excellent common sense thoughts! You are right about knife size. So many over philosophize this and try to justify their tiny or behemoth knife choice. Situational factors may dictate which knife is chosen but generally you are correct. Nice job!
After re-reading I find everyone is on the right track. I was a Boy Scout and that were I learned to prepare but videos like the one here is just as good for education. Your point of "Situational factors may dictate which knife is chosen..." I love and as you note sometimes we make bad choices because they're not based on those factors.
I own a KA-BAR full size 7 inch knife, and I just purchased the smaller version that has a 5 1/4 inch blade length with a 9 1/2 inch overall. I know I can trust my life on this knife not because it is made here in the USA, but it has proven that it can withstand anything you can possibly throw at it and still has the capability to do more. I recommend this knife to anyone who is thinking about getting a great survival knife ( BTW I am also an Eagle Scout )
Actually I've seen the mighty Kabar fail. It is arhat tail tang and the transition from blade to tang is a known weak point. Is it a versatile design yes but full proof and best survival knife design I think it falls short.
You cannot stress the importance of the full-length blade enough, I am not a fan of partial or rat - tail tangs. You really gotta have the heft and the backbone of a full-time blade. These are great points that all should bear in mind when considering a addition to your blade arsenal.
I never understood why people keep on advertising/mentioning using their knife as a spear. Last thing I'm going to do is risk the potential of my knife/spear sticking into a hog and it running off with it. As for the exposed tang/pommel it is personal preference. I'll stick with a rock.
Use your knife to make the fishing spear, instead of making it into the spear. If you throw it at a large fish, and miss; no need to panic if the tide catches your spear and it gets washed away from you. Use your main knife to make the various tools you need, instead of using it as one of those tools. If you lose or break the tool, make another. If you lose or even break your knife; good luck making another knife.
90% of couch "survival" "experts" will crawl back into their truck and drive home in case they loose their tool. The amount of bad advice and pretentious survivalists is off the roof on youtube...
I find carrying more than one knife best, I carry a folding knife around my neck most of the time and a fixed blade bush knife when I feel I may need one with me. For wood processing I use a small hatchet or a folding saw, it`s no big deal to have this stuff with me as most of it weighs next to nothing. My advice to anyone is to get yourself a really good belt and attach any EDC gear to it, that way it`s always with you.
I enjoy a great carbon blade as good as the next man for hard work, but out of all of my knives I own if I had to take just one it would be my Blackbird SK-5 because of the reasons that were named here, and because if you guys know anything about 154cm you know that with a good heat treat and design its simply awesome.I also do not live near the ocean so I don't have to worry about rust issues so long as I throw some mineral oil on it every once in a blue moon and keep it clean after use.Seriously if your looking for a light knife that can do it all in the right hands check out the Blackbird SK-5 by Ontario. - Stay Frosty!
Very good advice and thank you for driving home the fixed blade, full tang point. I hear about so many people trying to use folders like they are fixed blades, often times buying in the manufactures hype about it having "fixed blade strength." And shame on the manufactures that market their folders that way. A solid slab of steel is going to win every time haha.
I think Creek Stewart is correct for a 1 knife option. For example if your suddenly in a emergency or something and that's all you had. But in a planned bug out or hiking/camping trip your survival knife is several. For me it's 1. a pocket Knife or multi-tool 2. a Mora 3. a Kukri (11 inch blade), Parang (12 inch blade) or Hatchet. Also, a small saw I carry all the time. If you are skilled 1 knife could work for you but I take the right tool for the job. Sm for small Tasks, Lg for large tasks.
Agreed. I think a drop point probably offers the best all around performance, but a clip point works very well also and, because the tip has a more acute profile to it, it will offer more precision/less friction in tasks.
As a custom knifemaker let me just say: a spear point is not double-edged unless you sharpen the back side. It simply means that the blade profile is the same on both sides. If you traced the blade on paper and drew a line from the tip to the center of the blade at the hilt, the two halves would mirror each other.
...I suggest wrapping a bandanna around the pommel, or some such solution. Wonderful tips on looking for quality survival knives. Enjoyed your video, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video helps a lot but for driving in tent stakes would a rock or heavy branch be easier? Or maybe add a hatchet or tomahawk for blunt strickes ? Ice pick love that idea it gets very cold here
I can't believe that a survival instructor of this stature repeats that of making a spear by tying it on the knife at one end ... that really belongs in the movies of the 70's
Hi Creek. One thing that continues to puzzle me - why is it always assumed that one has access to only one knife - the so-called survival knife? You, yourself, by own admission in the video, carry a Spyderco! I invariably have on me at least my SAK (and sometimes a Leatherman Wave on my belt), irrespective of what else I am carrying. This gives me the flexibility that when considering my "survival knife" I don't have to consider using it for those pesky, fiddly little small knife tasks that bushcrafting are so keen on. I can choose a proper (large) heavy use knife for tough work (like an MOD knife, Esee 6 or RAT 7etc). [Incidentally I actually carry my own made Bushwhacker (8 1/2" blade, 14"overall)] With a decent folding saw (not too large) and my knife complement, there are not many tasks one cannot accomplish. I'm please I came across your video, and wonder if you are still making similar ones.
I have a Gollik Knives SLSR. It’s got a 6.5” blade of .25” thick Sleipner steel at 60HRC. It can baton through steel bars, literally. The maker has a video showing it.
Nice video! I would say mine is a 5.5 out of 6, according to this. The butt end isn't flat but depending on what I would want to hammer, I probably still could. Question is, would I want to use my knife as a hammer or would I try to find a rock and spare my knife? Btw, which would you prefer for a survival knife: a serrated or a straight edge blade? - Christine
A carbon blade too. Keeps the edge longer and can strike a flint or quartz for sparks. One can make the case for a mirror polish to signal with but it will just smudge up after use so I say a protective coating to prevent rust is best even just a patina. BK2, ESEE 5 and tool steel bushcraft knives are good choices. Axes and machetes are better than knives in some wilderness environments but are less safe and take more practice.
Some good points, Creek, but you eliminated all the Mora, Hultfors and most of the Helle blades by specifying a full tang as a must have. I have to respectfully disagree with that requirement. The Blackbird SK5 is a great knife and I like the removable scales.
Agreed that this is a great video for the beginner. I do own the knife that you display as well. I was a dealer and restore knives in retirement. I would add the following considerations for the beginner. 1. I assume that you do not know how to sharpen a knife. Find a survival knife that is not issued dull. Make that your 7th criterion. Many military knives are issued dull. This is because they are sticking people and twisting the knife. 2. Many people in the world have "survival knives" and do not baton branches or logs. They do not do it because it requires an expenditure of calories, green wood is not suitable for many applications, and if you aren't going to stay in one place it doesn't make sense. If you have the skills like a youngster who lives in the subartic or artic regions of the world and has made it in the winter with a fixed blade, it doesn't have to be a full tang, it can be a knife like an inexpensive Mora. However, if you are a beginner and have no skills, the displayed knife is fine. 3. I had to choose a survival knife for my 40 year son. No experience in knife sharpening, meat cutting, making things in the woods. Drives many thousands of miles a year in his car for work. I got him an Ontario TFI. Better suited for him and cheaper than the Blackbird.
Good points! However, I dont think the spear point is necessary. A good drop point will be fine and it will still pierce with a sharp point.If Dave Canterbury can survive with a basic 1095 full tang, drop point, 5+ inch knife, Im sure its possible for anybody who actually has some skill to survive. I would just sharpen a piece of sapling and use that for my spear, my knife never leaves my side so to speak...
Dave would make the point that the knife should be carbon steel to use it for making fire with a stone of hardness 7 or above. Frankly, I use a fire steel/striker combination and use a strong, corrosion resistant knife instead. My knife is hardened with an exotic process which leaves the cutting edge incredibly tough and hard. It isn't an inexpensive knife, however.
I don't think hammering with the pommel or making a spear out of your knife are best practices. Both have better options. Hammering: Rather than having the pointy end of your knife pointing towards your face as you pound a tent peg, simply pick up the nearest rock to hammer with. Spear-making: The knife is your #1 most important survival tool. Do you really want to risk damaging it or losing it by turning it into a spear? Probably not. If you need a spear that badly, you might consider just using your blade to just sharpen the stick itself. Fire-harden the tip if necessary.
I do have the O.K.C. and really it's not bad, very versital from food prep to bush craft, and your right it's a good size just incase you need to baton wood to start a fire when it's wet and you need some dry wood, Yeah its a good knife, and it's going down in price, when I bought mine I payed $125.00-$130.00 today you could find them cheaper another F.Y.I. Battle Horse came out with a great folder that looks promising as far as a strong joint where a folder bends the well point. it's called a Tree Frog and two pins hold the blade and handle so it's almost as strong as a fix blade, it was nice to see this video again.
The funny thing is, on his web site he sells Mora knives and other 3/4 tang knives at a higher price then the real Mora site does. He is about to start selling his own brand of knives soon, under the WHISKEY KNIVES brand name. Maybe they are all going to be full tang?
most important thing is a good steel which has been well heat treated.
7 лет назад
It's possibile to do detailed work with a machete (not ideal, a little bit unconfortable), but is much much more difficult to "capinar" (cut tall grass in tropical florests do make way) with a small knife.
I think the BK7 is the closest to the best all around knife I own. Great handle, full tang, not too big not too small, not too thick not too thin, flat grind, pointy yet strong tip, tolerable weight
before all this, that I appreciate and agree with most, the first consideration you should do is about the weight you think is right to carry, in your in your complete survival equipment, for your cutting (and other minor functions) toolS. I think that about 500 grams is not too much for one of the most important. that considered there are much more than one option then. I'd like to suggest a unorthodox combo that I'm sure will disgust most of "survivors and bushcrafters": a very hard to break medium size tri-ad lock folder from cold steel (also some zero tolerance 550 line are very very solid - there is a youtube strong abuse test that demonstrate with evidence their unbelievable strength) for all the light precision tasks, and a light but very effective camp axe for all heavy task, cutting wood (but not only) for fire, hammering, etc. or the same folder and a bigger knife. anyway I consider a bad idea bringing just one of the most important surviving tool. also some leatherman multi tool have very very good sharp and useful different small knifes - and others very useful tools, all locked up by a system to be well used, as their impressively effective small saw, in making some wood work where you need some precision, can cut a 4cm diameter hard wood in less than 10 minutes with not much effort. and when you have it you will use pliers, small scissors and other things much more than you imagine, making some real surviving works much more easier - and a quite big knife always staying in about 500 grams (if you think about a very popular survival knife, the bk2, you should bring almost 100 g more than 500 grams - that's the reason why in that case I would suggest the bk10, it's quite the same, 0,2 inches thick (!), just not that heavy - what for I sincerely never understood why, unless you don't consider it as a stone to be thrown for defense, or because such a big friend makes you feel safer ;-) ). or some other combo solutions, just a few, but not be unconsidered. ps. chopping is not considered anymore as a task? strange new idea... maybe because if you try to do it with a lightweight mora or fallkniven s1, or also with that bear grills "fashion" knife, you may will give up... for me chopping with a knife of weight less than about 250 g (8.5 oz) is worthless.
So do you believe that the ka-bar bk2 has the wrong tip to be a really good survival knife? It has the drop point design. Just wanting to know your opinion on that particular knife. Great Videos btw ☺
That's the same knife in the video. The Ontario SK-5 Blackbird outfitted with a Hedgehog Leatherworks Custom Sheath. The sheath alone is $300+ along with the knife $100+. It's a pretty expensive rig but it's very high quality.
The knife Mr. Stewart is showing in this video is the Ontario Blackbird SK-5. The steel is 154 CM with a rockwell hardness of 58-60 (which means it's hard enough to maintain a razor sharp edge, but soft enough that you can sharpen it in the field). The blade has a perfectly squared spine which enables you to use it with a ferro rod. I have no relationship with Ontario knives and I have nothing to gain by praising the SK-5. But I just love mine.
Great video for the beginner, very well put and clear. I agree with you on most of your points except I would say a drop point will function just as well as a spear point.
I love the Ontario Blackbird SK5, it's got all the features of a great survival knife, it's pretty much perfect IMO. I bought it for my dad.
Your dad is a lucky man!
I'm thrilled that I came across you Creek on YT!! I highly recommend your show on The Weather Channel called Fat Guys in the Woods!! Your one show that had featured Rosehips & handmade traps was incredible!! My wife & I learned so much from that!!
We love how you show simple survival tips that can easily make a difference between life and death.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
Very nice show👌
I agree with the 6 knife characteristics you speak of. What do you recommend for steel type. Carbon, Stainless, Super steels, etc.
good advice, I would never lash my knife to a stick, I would make a spear and harden it in a fire. Great very clear vid thanks
Bruce Nitroxpro Pardon me for chiming in, but I'm sure he means that he would carve a sharp point into a wooden spear, and then harden the wood in a fire. Many outdoorsmen talk about hardening wood that way. I haven't tried it, but now that it came up, it's on my bucket list. Cheers. --Scott
ScottsUtubeWorld You do not "harden wood IN a fire"......that will burn your wood tool up....you harden it in the ground near the fire, but you MUSTbe careful not to bury it too close to the fire or it will still make your wooden tool into charcoal. I know, because I did it on a fish spear that I had worked very hard to carve. Buried it too close to the fire and made it into charcoal which rendered useless thereafter and wasted all my hard work. You want to "heat" the wooden tool, not burn it.
spiritpath1 Thanks for the heads-up before I burn my hard work. I think it was Ray Mears who hardened wood tent stakes. I can't wait to try it.
Your very welcome ScottsUtubeWorld.
Best knife video on the internet
Hey Creek Im loving your new show. I cant believe I watched this video so long ago & you helped me pick out my sk5 & it's my go to still. Thank you for your part in helping me get back into the woods. Ill come camp with you on the show. I almost got the same rig as you. Just not a sheath from Paul maybe one day.
A person can be thrust into a survival emergency whenever they leave civilisation and that can happen at any time and you won't always have that nice big survival kit you take to the scrub. In that case, there's only three features you really need to worry about in a "survival" knife.
1: It's legal to carry. After all, a knife is worthless if it's not on you when you need it and stuck in your backpack or survival kit is not on you. It's the same with your survival kit, which is why I personally carry a diy PSK that was adapted from the list in the SAS Survival Guide.
2: The blade steel has respectable wear resistance and if you're reduced to a folder, get one with a strong lock
3: The blade is at least 3 inches long.
Anything else describes an out-of-doors belt knife, not something you can be sure is on you when you get stranded and need to stay alive until rescued.
Nice video, man. I'm with you 100%. No hype, no bull. Greatly appreciated.
Very comprehensive, nicely timed and concise in message! Superb!
Laconic, clear and very useful. Great video. Thanks.
Thank You; a very reasoned and clear presentation that rings true to me. One of the critics here in this blog complained.... "Don't use your knife for that... that's why I use an ax". That misses the point of a "use for everything" tool scenario. A good Survival knife needs to perform a whole toolbox worth of tasks.
It isn't very often I agree with everything in a youtube video. In my opinion. You are correct on every single point. incidentally, I carry the BK2.
Very informative vid. Love the clarity with which each point is explained. Subscribed, obviously:)
Awesome and straight to the point, plus you have a really good knife.
Very good video, strait to the point. Thank you!
A couple of features he left off.
1. Affordability: If you can't afford it forget it. That includes having a spare if you drop it or can't find it for any reason what so ever.
2. It needs to be able to take and hold a good sharp edge and you need a way to touch up that edge with something you can stuff into a pocket and not notice the weight.
3. If it isn't light & compact you are likely to take it off and leave it at camp or in the car so you don't have it with you when you need the blasted thing.
3. The one tool option is for people doing shows and having fun. Reasonable and prudent people trying to enjoy the wilderness have tool kits and learn how to use them. If you are trying to be a preper forget running off to the woods and trying to live like a wild man. It takes about 7 square miles of decent land to live as a hunter gatherer and you still need a support network of friends and a tool kit or you won't last.
4. There is almost no place in the eastern USA that is more than 10 miles from a paved road. It is all either privately owned or state or federal property. If you aren't disabled getting to a road is not beyond your abilities before you starve to death in about 40 days.
1.) one expensive and decent knife will probably outlast both a cheap one and you
2.) unless you decide you're capable of running off and surviving alone in the wilderness and never look back, there's no way you will dull your expensive, decent knife during daily use before you go back home where someone will restore it for you because you have no clue how to do it. Otherwise, you'll know how to sharpen your knife without proper tools. (I mean, not you personally, but the majority of the "survivalists" watching these videos)
3.) what you desrcibed is camping or paranoia. That's where people bring a truckload of tools and supplies with them.
4.) The only smart thing that I can't argue about. 99% of couch experts will never find themselves in a real survival situation where no help is available. Even if they do, they wouldn't require a knife, their only chance would be if a Bear Grylls take them by their hand and bring them home. :D
Great presentation of basic info. All of the six points are important features and while most knives may not have all it brings people very close to makeing a good choice for a knife that will be reliable and functional if called on. Great job.
Good video. I just picked up the Fallkniven A1 - it meets all 6 of the suggested features.
Thank you Sir!. Very valid points indeed. Thank you for the advice.
All excellent basic points!
wow finally a good knife video explains and shows in detail. other videos were dudes trying to show off there knifes and talking blah blah blah. so thanks awesome vid
Awesome Creek, thank you!
thank you for the information, this video helped me decide with my survival knife.
Thanks nice clear video. it should clear up alot of debate. I love the blackbird sk-5
YAY!!! My survival knife meets all your expectations!
Great video, really helped
i have to say im new to making knifes and looking to build myself one. this video has helped me alot on the fetchers i want and need thank you
Great video and great points
Thank you for the video, no hype, clearly presented and reasoned. I have a blackbird SK5 and it is an excellent knife the 154CM Steel used offers excellent all round performance. All that being said my go to knife is the Fallkniven S1 purely because of how it feels in my hand when I use it, I simply feel more confident when using it. Only point i would add is about not having serrations and having a purely plain edge, feather sticking with a serrated blade is a PITA as are many other tasks.
Awesome video, thank you!
Excellent common sense thoughts! You are right about knife size. So many over philosophize this and try to justify their tiny or behemoth knife choice. Situational factors may dictate which knife is chosen but generally you are correct. Nice job!
After re-reading I find everyone is on the right track. I was a Boy Scout and that were I learned to prepare but videos like the one here is just as good for education.
Your point of "Situational factors may dictate which knife is chosen..." I love and as you note sometimes we make bad choices because they're not based on those factors.
I agree with everything. I use the full-sized Ka-bar But I will always carry a smaller knife too.
Good video, makes a lot of sense
@CampSmarts Thank you. I prefer a straight blade. It's easier to sharpen.
The knife shown is reflective which I consider important. A knife that shines in the sun can be used as a signaling device like a mirror.
Thanks Creek, good. Take care.
I own a KA-BAR full size 7 inch knife, and I just purchased the smaller version that has a 5 1/4 inch blade length with a 9 1/2 inch overall. I know I can trust my life on this knife not because it is made here in the USA, but it has proven that it can withstand anything you can possibly throw at it and still has the capability to do more. I recommend this knife to anyone who is thinking about getting a great survival knife
( BTW I am also an Eagle Scout )
Actually I've seen the mighty Kabar fail. It is arhat tail tang and the transition from blade to tang is a known weak point. Is it a versatile design yes but full proof and best survival knife design I think it falls short.
Perfect video thank you
I was going to criticise you on wearing jeans, but your advice is gold.
You cannot stress the importance of the full-length blade enough, I am not a fan of partial or rat - tail tangs. You really gotta have the heft and the backbone of a full-time blade. These are great points that all should bear in mind when considering a addition to your blade arsenal.
Great video man
Thank you very much buddy for awesome info. Plz tell us something about blade material.
I never understood why people keep on advertising/mentioning using their knife as a spear. Last thing I'm going to do is risk the potential of my knife/spear sticking into a hog and it running off with it. As for the exposed tang/pommel it is personal preference. I'll stick with a rock.
Fish
Use your knife to make the fishing spear, instead of making it into the spear. If you throw it at a large fish, and miss; no need to panic if the tide catches your spear and it gets washed away from you. Use your main knife to make the various tools you need, instead of using it as one of those tools. If you lose or break the tool, make another. If you lose or even break your knife; good luck making another knife.
Maybe dont throw it and use it as a melee weapon
CrazySpinach 79 Even if you don't throw it, you still run the risk of it sticking in a pig/bear/deer and the spear breaking and it running off
90% of couch "survival" "experts" will crawl back into their truck and drive home in case they loose their tool. The amount of bad advice and pretentious survivalists is off the roof on youtube...
Great Video !!!
I find carrying more than one knife best, I carry a folding knife around my neck most of the time and a fixed blade bush knife when I feel I may need one with me. For wood processing I use a small hatchet or a folding saw, it`s no big deal to have this stuff with me as most of it weighs next to nothing. My advice to anyone is to get yourself a really good belt and attach any EDC gear to it, that way it`s always with you.
I agree on most points. Not the length or the spear point. I prefer smaller and a drop point of the puukko model blade.
I enjoy a great carbon blade as good as the next man for hard work, but out of all of my knives I own if I had to take just one it would be my Blackbird SK-5 because of the reasons that were named here, and because if you guys know anything about 154cm you know that with a good heat treat and design its simply awesome.I also do not live near the ocean so I don't have to worry about rust issues so long as I throw some mineral oil on it every once in a blue moon and keep it clean after use.Seriously if your looking for a light knife that can do it all in the right hands check out the Blackbird SK-5 by Ontario. - Stay Frosty!
Very good advice and thank you for driving home the fixed blade, full tang point. I hear about so many people trying to use folders like they are fixed blades, often times buying in the manufactures hype about it having "fixed blade strength." And shame on the manufactures that market their folders that way. A solid slab of steel is going to win every time haha.
I think Creek Stewart is correct for a 1 knife option. For example if your suddenly in a emergency or something and that's all you had. But in a planned bug out or hiking/camping trip your survival knife is several. For me it's 1. a pocket Knife or multi-tool 2. a Mora 3. a Kukri (11 inch blade), Parang (12 inch blade) or Hatchet. Also, a small saw I carry all the time.
If you are skilled 1 knife could work for you but I take the right tool for the job. Sm for small Tasks, Lg for large tasks.
to the point. no punn intended. no overdone intro. well done.
Great points.
I would really like to check this knife out in person. Looks good to me.
Phenomenal video! Clearly a man who knows what he's talking about.
very good explanation in very very simple language and very very useful thing thank you.
Thx this video helps me much ;)
My name is James I watch your show . I like your way of teaching I also like your knife
Great vid thx
Agreed. I think a drop point probably offers the best all around performance, but a clip point works very well also and, because the tip has a more acute profile to it, it will offer more precision/less friction in tasks.
Thanks for this!! What about serrations vs not?
As a custom knifemaker let me just say: a spear point is not double-edged unless you sharpen the back side. It simply means that the blade profile is the same on both sides. If you traced the blade on paper and drew a line from the tip to the center of the blade at the hilt, the two halves would mirror each other.
...I suggest wrapping a bandanna around the pommel, or some such solution. Wonderful tips on looking for quality survival knives. Enjoyed your video, thanks for sharing.
Creek, could you make a video recommending some various models of survival knives?
Thanks for the video helps a lot but for driving in tent stakes would a rock or heavy branch be easier? Or maybe add a hatchet or tomahawk for blunt strickes ? Ice pick love that idea it gets very cold here
The perfect survival knife! Is there such a thing?
I can't believe that a survival instructor of this stature repeats that of making a spear by tying it on the knife at one end ... that really belongs in the movies of the 70's
what a great presentation, thanks,what knife do you recommend
Hi Creek. One thing that continues to puzzle me - why is it always assumed that one has access to only one knife - the so-called survival knife? You, yourself, by own admission in the video, carry a Spyderco! I invariably have on me at least my SAK (and sometimes a Leatherman Wave on my belt), irrespective of what else I am carrying. This gives me the flexibility that when considering my "survival knife" I don't have to consider using it for those pesky, fiddly little small knife tasks that bushcrafting are so keen on. I can choose a proper (large) heavy use knife for tough work (like an MOD knife, Esee 6 or RAT 7etc). [Incidentally I actually carry my own made Bushwhacker (8 1/2" blade, 14"overall)] With a decent folding saw (not too large) and my knife complement, there are not many tasks one cannot accomplish. I'm please I came across your video, and wonder if you are still making similar ones.
I have a Gollik Knives SLSR. It’s got a 6.5” blade of .25” thick Sleipner steel at 60HRC. It can baton through steel bars, literally. The maker has a video showing it.
I concur!
Nice video! I would say mine is a 5.5 out of 6, according to this. The butt end isn't flat but depending on what I would want to hammer, I probably still could. Question is, would I want to use my knife as a hammer or would I try to find a rock and spare my knife? Btw, which would you prefer for a survival knife: a serrated or a straight edge blade? - Christine
A carbon blade too. Keeps the edge longer and can strike a flint or quartz for sparks. One can make the case for a mirror polish to signal with but it will just smudge up after use so I say a protective coating to prevent rust is best even just a patina. BK2, ESEE 5 and tool steel bushcraft knives are good choices. Axes and machetes are better than knives in some wilderness environments but are less safe and take more practice.
My "survival knife" is a Becker BK2 with modifications on the sheath, handle.and blade.
What rust resident steel types do you suggest for really tight budgets that are really good quality for the price
useful info
Good thoughts.
Hi. How about the guard ? Is this important or not ( in your opinion ) ? Great video. Thanks.
Some good points, Creek, but you eliminated all the Mora, Hultfors and most of the Helle blades by specifying a full tang as a must have. I have to respectfully disagree with that requirement. The Blackbird SK5 is a great knife and I like the removable scales.
Creek do you still use the OKC Blackbird knife. If not what have you gon to nowadays?
I agree!
:)
i just got me a ka bar usmc knife. I think it works well
Agreed that this is a great video for the beginner. I do own the knife that you display as well. I was a dealer and restore knives in retirement. I would add the following considerations for the beginner.
1. I assume that you do not know how to sharpen a knife. Find a survival knife that is not issued dull. Make that your 7th criterion. Many military knives are issued dull. This is because they are sticking people and twisting the knife.
2. Many people in the world have "survival knives" and do not baton branches or logs. They do not do it because it requires an expenditure of calories, green wood is not suitable for many applications, and if you aren't going to stay in one place it doesn't make sense. If you have the skills like a youngster who lives in the subartic or artic regions of the world and has made it in the winter with a fixed blade, it doesn't have to be a full tang, it can be a knife like an inexpensive Mora. However, if you are a beginner and have no skills, the displayed knife is fine.
3. I had to choose a survival knife for my 40 year son. No experience in knife sharpening, meat cutting, making things in the woods. Drives many thousands of miles a year in his car for work. I got him an Ontario TFI. Better suited for him and cheaper than the Blackbird.
Good points! However, I dont think the spear point is necessary. A good drop point will be fine and it will still pierce with a sharp point.If Dave Canterbury can survive with a basic 1095 full tang, drop point, 5+ inch knife, Im sure its possible for anybody who actually has some skill to survive. I would just sharpen a piece of sapling and use that for my spear, my knife never leaves my side so to speak...
Dave would make the point that the knife should be carbon steel to use it for making fire with a stone of hardness 7 or above. Frankly, I use a fire steel/striker combination and use a strong, corrosion resistant knife instead. My knife is hardened with an exotic process which leaves the cutting edge incredibly tough and hard. It isn't an inexpensive knife, however.
nice video
have a 10 dollar coast fixed blade for general use in woods, KBAR for the bigger task and kill and a folder all 3 125.. and will bet my life on them
I don't think hammering with the pommel or making a spear out of your knife are best practices. Both have better options.
Hammering: Rather than having the pointy end of your knife pointing towards your face as you pound a tent peg, simply pick up the nearest rock to hammer with.
Spear-making: The knife is your #1 most important survival tool. Do you really want to risk damaging it or losing it by turning it into a spear? Probably not. If you need a spear that badly, you might consider just using your blade to just sharpen the stick itself. Fire-harden the tip if necessary.
I do have the O.K.C. and really it's not bad, very versital from food prep to bush craft, and your right it's a good size just incase you need to baton wood to start a fire when it's wet and you need some dry wood, Yeah its a good knife, and it's going down in price, when I bought mine I payed $125.00-$130.00 today you could find them cheaper another F.Y.I. Battle Horse came out with a great folder that looks promising as far as a strong joint where a folder bends the well point. it's called a Tree Frog and two pins hold the blade and handle so it's almost as strong as a fix blade, it was nice to see this video again.
The funny thing is, on his web site he sells Mora knives and other 3/4 tang knives at a higher price then the real Mora site does. He is about to start selling his own brand of knives soon, under the WHISKEY KNIVES brand name. Maybe they are all going to be full tang?
Full tang always, a neck knife & a heavy blade knife to cover all jobs..
I also carry a machete, just for hacking thru brush.
most important thing is a good steel which has been well heat treated.
It's possibile to do detailed work with a machete (not ideal, a little bit unconfortable), but is much much more difficult to "capinar" (cut tall grass in tropical florests do make way) with a small knife.
I think the BK7 is the closest to the best all around knife I own. Great handle, full tang, not too big not too small, not too thick not too thin, flat grind, pointy yet strong tip, tolerable weight
before all this, that I appreciate and agree with most, the first consideration you should do is about the weight you think is right to carry, in your in your complete survival equipment, for your cutting (and other minor functions) toolS. I think that about 500 grams is not too much for one of the most important. that considered there are much more than one option then. I'd like to suggest a unorthodox combo that I'm sure will disgust most of "survivors and bushcrafters": a very hard to break medium size tri-ad lock folder from cold steel (also some zero tolerance 550 line are very very solid - there is a youtube strong abuse test that demonstrate with evidence their unbelievable strength) for all the light precision tasks, and a light but very effective camp axe for all heavy task, cutting wood (but not only) for fire, hammering, etc. or the same folder and a bigger knife. anyway I consider a bad idea bringing just one of the most important surviving tool. also some leatherman multi tool have very very good sharp and useful different small knifes - and others very useful tools, all locked up by a system to be well used, as their impressively effective small saw, in making some wood work where you need some precision, can cut a 4cm diameter hard wood in less than 10 minutes with not much effort. and when you have it you will use pliers, small scissors and other things much more than you imagine, making some real surviving works much more easier - and a quite big knife always staying in about 500 grams (if you think about a very popular survival knife, the bk2, you should bring almost 100 g more than 500 grams - that's the reason why in that case I would suggest the bk10, it's quite the same, 0,2 inches thick (!), just not that heavy - what for I sincerely never understood why, unless you don't consider it as a stone to be thrown for defense, or because such a big friend makes you feel safer ;-) ). or some other combo solutions, just a few, but not be unconsidered.
ps. chopping is not considered anymore as a task? strange new idea... maybe because if you try to do it with a lightweight mora or fallkniven s1, or also with that bear grills "fashion" knife, you may will give up... for me chopping with a knife of weight less than about 250 g (8.5 oz) is worthless.
When does your schooling start and when plus where?
Timeless advice.
Full tang is a plus. +++
So do you believe that the ka-bar bk2 has the wrong tip to be a really good survival knife? It has the drop point design. Just wanting to know your opinion on that particular knife. Great Videos btw ☺
I prefer the Ontario rak it doesn't have a flat pommel but it does the job
On your show you give away a survival knife setup, what kind is that? Love the show.
That's the same knife in the video. The Ontario SK-5 Blackbird outfitted with a Hedgehog Leatherworks Custom Sheath. The sheath alone is $300+ along with the knife $100+. It's a pretty expensive rig but it's very high quality.