Survival knives: Five things to avoid when choosing a survival/hunting knife
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- Most of us have opinions on what we want in a survival/hunting knife. I still haven't made up my mind on what is the best knife for all situations. But I do know five things I DON'T want in a survival knife, and here they are. Let me know what you think!
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Stay safe and go outside! 
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In college, I studied journalism and part of the requirements included radio and television announcing. I participate in Toastmasters to stay practiced. Thanks for the kind words.
This video is a blanket-bombing of common sense. Its also nice to people state-side recognising the awesomeness of Morakniv. They are best bang for your buck knives. If in doubt, just get a cheap Mora until you want to spend more cash imho.
I owned a Schrade folder years ago and liked it very much. It was the one that looked like the Buck 110, and it was EDC for me for several months when I worked construction. It ended up doing what a utility knife does, and worked really well. I have not done much with Schrade since. No particular reason - that's just how it worked out.
Survival Common Sense I like your video in the safety comments that you made you are dead on if someone is in a survival situation if you get cut you can get an infection I wish people would speak on this morning
Probably the Schrade LB7 bearpaw. I have had one for 20 years and i like the fatter grip on it compared to my buck 110. I do think the steel in the 110 is slightly better than the schrade so it is kind of a tie in my opinion.
KA-Bar BK2 (Becker Companion). Full tang, 1/4" thick, holds edge very well.
Tang extends beyond the grip to brake glass, use as a wedge with mallet and wood splitting.
Made in the USA and not expensive. Check it out- just my opinion.
Your words of wisdom and clarity are like a breath of fresh air. Thanks for the insight.
I've carried a Leatherman Wave for about 10 years. It works well for anything I've needed it for, and I highly recommend it.
I would also recommend you get a Mora to start with. They're cheap and reliable, and you can always buy a better knife when you decide what you want. The Mora can then become a spare.
With regard to celebrity endorsement of products, there are some people who are celebrities who will not endorse a product unless they feel it is a quality item. So if a celebrity is endorsing a product and you know they are knowledgeable in that field and are selective about what they will and will not endorse, it is probably going to be a good item. Otherwise you may end up paying a premium price for junk endorsed by a celebrity and if it is something that is critical in a survival situation you could end up dead. So Mr Pantenburg's caution on celebrity endorsement of commercial products is well grounded.
I recomend the ka-bar classic. The blade is full tang, and made of high resistance carbon steel. You can split rocks, and fillet fish right after. The edge holds true, and if you know how to truly sharpen a knife, you will never go wrong. Great video, priceless info
Ka bar usmc style blades are all rat tail tangs not genuine full tangs
Just some simple input on one of the knives you researched...one of my go to survival knives, and of course I have an assortment par the the area and condition...is the Bear Grylls Ultimate Pro Knife. I have carved two pipes with it, carved three walking sticks, cut logs right down to feather sticking...I even slammed it through a car door!!!
I glued the whistle to the tip of the sheath...put bike inner tube on the handle, and placed a survival mirror and magnifying glass in the top pocket opening and sealed that as well. On the problem with the fire striker pull out...I placed two, two meter squares of electrical tape on the base and solved the pull out issue! All in all with all the beating I have gave this knife....it only took 4 minutes to bring the blade back!!!! So, just saying and sticking up for an excellent product in the field. John
I've got the Gerber bear grylls knife with the serrated edge I find the serrated edge brilliant and it doesn't cut down the whittling with the straight blade part and sharpening the serrated edge is a piece of cake .
I have added compartments onto my Buck knife's sheath to handle the compass, line, hooks, and ferro rod. Without the hollow handle I can still take advantage of the full strength of my blade. Having the ferro rod alone with me give me the comfort I need as opposed to a cheap BudK hollow-handle wannabe Rambo knife.
my fave are condors: have a bushlore and a hudson's bay... if each sheath could have loops for a fire rod - Perrfecto! Hollowhandles don't strike me as very strong. I think it's best to add to the sheath and leave the knife as is. your thought...?
There are some excellent hollow handle knives on the market. But I think the amount of stuff that can be carried in a hollow handle doesn't offset the liabilities: survivalcommonsense.com/how-to-choose-the-right-grind-for-your-bushcraftsurvivalpreparedness-knife/
For folders there are a few companies that make unbelievably good folding mechanism. Mainly Cold Steel, Spyderco, and Zero Tolerance. They put them through incredible tests to show the durability. Folders also are meant as an EDC and not a survival. Walking around the city with a bowie knife would scare anyone who sees you. Great video sir.
I have the Cold Steel Master Hunter as well. I finally used it on a couple of deer and I like it. I also used my German Made Pohl Force Alpha 3 this season on a deer. It is the sharpest knife I have ever seen. It is a folder, but it is a brute. Made large enough for wearing gloves. I barely had to touch the pelt and it sliced through it like butter.
The serrated edge on a pocket knife has become popular. Let me tell you from experience, that nothing will slip and lay your hand open faster than a scalloped edge blade. I have a SAK that I will NEVER carry again after that incident. The scalloped edge is bad for just about anything you might use a pocket or survival knife for. As I said though, if your trying to lay the flesh of your hand open, it's great. Forget tight or precision work. It WILL slip, and you WILL cut the pad or some other part of your finger with it.
OH WAIT! It does cut bread really well :)
I have an old Swiss Army Huntsman that Ive carried since scouts and it performs in almost every way I need it to. I have a k-bar for everything else.
Thankfully, I haven't had a similar experience. My complaint is that the serrated edge is usually located in one of the prime cutting areas of the blade, and is not going to be used enough to justify the serrations being there. If someone - such as a first responder - needs a serrated edge for cutting seatbelts or something, I'd suggest they get a specialty folder with a serrated blade.
I can see that use :) Not the best for removing insulation from wire though. That's where it got me heheh. It creates binding points that you have to be really mindful of. I can still feel it every time my mind goes back. I gritted my teeth just then lol.
Wow, not many quick responders these days. I was surprised to get such a quick one :) Good to meet you.
Survival Common Sense To be honest, I prefer a specific strap cutter over using a knife to cut anything on or around a person. I wouldn't want to slip while extricating someone from a vehicle and stab them, haha. And lord knows ambulances are extremely bumpy. It still amazes me whenever I see the paramedics I ride with managing to insert IV's.
A serrated edge is good for cutting wet line and that's about it! I don't like serrated blades never have never will. ----Sam Adler
Cold Steel, Master Hunter I think is about the best all around for carry for
hunting / survival , tuff, great steel and comfortable to use even when my hands are cold. I have two one from the 80's and a new one, which is better ??? ,
the carbon V . I think holds an edge a bit longer. but let me use the new one for 20 years and i'll tell you then
Looking forward to your report!
cool vid bro, I totally dig your approach, style and even most of your opinions, just found ya, just subbed.
I agree. My choice lately is the Mora Bushcraft Black. Good all around knife. Also my everyday carry knife. Living in the woods offgrid the last few years my knives get a lot of use. Function and good steel are what matter.
I agree with every part of that except I like an about 5-6 inch blade for chopping and batoning. Those also work surprisingly well small tasks aswell
agreed
5-6 Inch Blades not for Chopping 🙈👈 Rookie.
Alex Hafner ... But the can do light chopping, etc in a pinch if needed.
Alex Hafner well somehow I make it work very well. Rookie luck I guess?
I would agree with everything but the length. You can't process wood with a 4" blade. Unless you carry an ax or hatchet, you will need a large blade to process wood (chop, baton, shave) for a shelter or a fire. A 4" blade will wear you out.
TexasScout Noneofyourbusiness Agreed. I have a rat 3 (way too small), went to a BK9 (Aawesome knife but too long for anything othet than chopping), recently got an Esee 6 (mid size). I believe the Esee will be my go to blade, just under 6" cutting edge makes it a great all around 🔪.
Comes down to the correct material selection and technique..... I don't need anything thicker than two inched for any shelter. Nor do I need to process logs to make a fire.
Average flipper i got one its great and not expensive! Comes with sharpener and fire starter.
For christs sake man, use an axe or muscle. Depending on the branch you can just break it with your foot or hands, or buy a $30 axe.
some good points, but mainly preferences. I like Gerber's serrations, they work awesome to make feather sticks. Mike from Blue Mountain Bushcraft and Outdoors demonstrates that. I will say if a Gerber knife is desired, the American ones like the LMF II, the prodigy, or the Strongarm are the ones to get. The cheap Bear Grylls knives will not handle hard tasks. Whenever I go to state land to hunt or practice woodcraft, my Gerber Strongarm is always my #1 pick. I do sometimes bring my Tops Condor Alert or my Schf9, but the Strongarm does most tasks really well. I do hope Gerber will make a knife similar to the Strongarm but with a longer blade, that be an interesting knife to check out!
I received the same Bear Grylls knife for Chrismas a few years ago (except mine had the serrated portion on the blade) and I love it. It's been a great knife so far. But by far the best knife I own is my grandpa's old military issue Cattaraugus 225Q. Excellent knife, still cuts like a dream.
The best knife is the one you have with you when you need it. :-)
+RB M carry every day..usually a junk folder i dont mind using,breaking or having to make gone..for some reason
RB M two folders (one small one with pliers), 2 lighters, matches, my wallet, a ferrocerium rod, a flashlight, sunglasses and a T-light candle. If I’m hunting or exploring, I’ll have the same EDC but with a fixed blade. Probably a mora or a gerber strongarm.
This is why you should always carry a good knife.
RB M that saying is a tired dead horse that everyone keeps beating and I don't think saying that accomplishes anything! Everyone knows in an emergency you would use whatever you have with you. So when someone asks what's the best survival knife? They are asking your opinion. So don't give them that bullshit line! --- Sam Adler
honestly? an opinel? dont get me wrong, I love my opinel no 8, but opinels are picnic knives for bread and cheese. No way should you ever reccomend an opinel for a survival situation. even if you dont want to carry a fixed blade, a sturdy knife with a rock solid lock back mechanism is almost equal. the Buck 110 is the best folding knife for this description, and it wont be flimsy and snap like an opinel
+Enzo Warren I agree. I love Opinel, but their blades and thin and flimsy. The Buck 110 is an excellent folder, but I would pick a fixed blade if I had to worry about my life or stab something or someone.
+YTRulesFromNM definitely, I share your preference for fixed blades. I was recommending the 110 as an option for someone who wants a folding knife over a fixed blade. Personally, I carry either my Buck 119 or my Cold Steel Trailmaster for outdoor uses. For EDC I carry the SOG Instinct, a small fixed blade.
frenchman here: the opinel blades are flimsy for a reason. they're interchangeable. i can get an opinel for less than 10€, and i carried one for a few years before getting another laguiole (my first ever pocket knife was one of those). i can't imagine why you wouldn't just buy another opinel, but spare blades are about 2€. pop off the ring-lock, push the pivot out, swap out, peen, slip the ring. done. op has a point, opinel is not a survival knife. it's a dai-to-day knife. you eat with it, you cut open your mail with it, you picnic with it, hell the opinel i owned was a mushroom sickle with a boar bristle brush on the hilt! i prefer laguiole's "fancy" finish, the corkscrew, and of course, the fact that it's 100% legal to carry in your pocket (seriously, in the eyes of french law, it's like carrying a spoon: it's a "culinary implement", not a weapon).
Don't knock the Opinel as a survival knife. They are an all purpose knife including bushcraft. There is a reason why the same designs with companies like Opinel and Victorinox persist since th 1800s and companies like Schrade, Buck, Cold Steel etc need to come up with something new and flashy every few months to keep people interested.
Thanks again for a great set of information. ATB. Nigel
I've been using my Camillus USAF Pilot's Survival Knife for over 20 years. It's the one I keep coming back to. Great chopper, easy to handle, and although the sawback is not designed for wood, it is great for notching. I also like the Moras that I have.
A good friend, and skilled woodsman uses a pilot survival knife. They're a solid piece of cutlery.
Liked the video but had two issues with a couple of statements you made. My first issue is with the folding knives. I agree that in most cases, a folder is not the way to go for a survival knife but... The Cold Steel Recon 1 (several models available, I have the 4.5 in Tanto point) uses a new patented locking mechanism called Triad Lock. It will not fail and is considered to be the new tactical folder for this century. The second issue is with the hollow handled knife. In the 70's when the "Rambo" knife come out, these were pieces of crap and not worth anything, although a good idea, they were not made good at all, most of the time, the blades wee pinned or even bolted to the grip, disaster waiting to happen. That being said, I own a Schrade SCHF2 (check it out on RUclips) and I think anyone will agree, this is a very good knife made with 1070 carbon steel, tried and true. It is a one piece, from point to hilt, solid metal. So other than that, liked the video and would agree with most that was said :)
Here's the story that goes with the video. It goes into greater detail: www.survivalcommonsense.com/video-five-things-to-avoid-when-choosing-a-survivalhunting-knifefeed/
I have a few Cold Steels with the TriAdd... I have done plenty of chopping with my XL Voyager... but as strong as it is, after a few hours of impact, it will loosen to the point where I no longer trust it, even with Blue Locktight. It would be great to have if you are in a pinch, but not for a long duration. I even have a Pocket Bushman with the Ram lock, it is even more secure than the Tri-Ad... but it will have the same problem, the shock will inevitability loosen the screws. The only folder I would even consider, the Extrema Ratio RAO, and that is because it has a physical .25 inch deadbolt that can be put through the handle and tang of the blade.
As for the Hollow handles, I agree that there are some blades now that are plenty strong, like the Schrade you mentioned an the Cold Steel Bushmen line... but I just do not see an advantage in it. The handle will not be as well fitting in the hand, it will also be very cold in the winter, and I do not see what I really could put in that space that I could not put in the sheath or else where.
I don't see any advantage to a hollow handle knife. But if someone must have one, here's some thoughts about what to put in it: www.survivalcommonsense.com/what-items-to-put-in-your-hollow-handle-survival-knifefeed/
Bro, I don't care how secure a locking mechanism is, it will never be as strong as a fixed blade.
Dobrin Sabew Agree 100% a folder will never be as strong as a full tang. I guess my point was that a folder such as a Triad Folding blade can be very reliable.
IMHO...
How about U.S or any Other army knife? is it durable and useful?
I'm not familiar with the brand of the issued knives, can you tell me a little more?
I'm the hill Climber so i'm currently looking for good survival knife for my long trips
Dante Vergil
Probably your first thoughts ought to be about what you'll use the knife for, how much you want to spend, and what things you need to look for in that knife. These posts might help: www.survivalcommonsense.com/category/how-to-chose-the-best-survival-knife-and-reviews-of-cutlery-products/
Thank you alot.
Thank you sir for very sound and sage advice. Keep these informative videos coming. A very hearty thumbs up.
+isaias ramirez Thank you for the kind words.
I like the fact that you come to the point right off. Simple and direct. While I disagree with the length. I prefer a 5 to 6 inch blade for a more versatile bushcraft/survivial. Think a 3/4 inch knife serves better in general hunting, which is the examples you used to illustrate your choice.
Have you ever even used a good folding knife? Even without a lock, you'd have to be a complete idiot to have one close up on your hand, and they do not fail unless you're dumb enough to try batoning with one. Of course, if yu have to baton with any blade, yu went into the woods unprepared.
There is no such thing as one knife that can do everything, and as real frontiersmen learned long, long ago, without a good folding knife, a Stockman or Congress style, you can;t do numerous suvival tasks easily, nor any one of a dozen fireside tasks. You can get by with one knife for a hunting trip, but real survival means carrying a fixed blade, and a folding pocket knife.
There are too darned many survival "experts" out there, and too darned few woodsmen.
I trust the lock on my cold steel recon 1!
I'm late to the party here, but I've not only batoned with the cold steel recon 1, but i've thrown it into a piece of lumber/log several times to demo how strong it really is. After you do something like that, it will have some play in it BEFORE closing it and opening it up again, but after redeploying it, there is no play, and the knife suffered absolutely no damage. That being said the recon 1 is far from my most expensive knife, but the point is not all knives are created equally, but if you know your stuff you can get use out of anything, even just a box cutter, and manage to not break it, you just have to know what it's limit is.
you can actully still baton with a folder if you dont lock the knife and let the handle hang and only use the blade to baton, not the greates but the idea is if thats all you have when all hell breaks loose on earth and your stranded 400 miles away then what ever you have on you will have to work
Becker BK7. Without a doubt. Strip the black coating off and you have a winner.
Any becker will do. The BK 7 isn't the end all of survival...
+Yo Adrian Oh of course. I've had friends who swore by the Ramora, and others who never go out without a BK9. There's enough in the repertoire to choose from, and I find that that's the fun part of personal preference.
MoonshineSazerac Yeah! They're all awesome. But i don't have a 7 yet, I've been using the bk5 religiously lol. How does the bk7 handle?
It's pretty damn good but where the clip point gets really narrow I've had the tip almost shatter if you so much as clip a chunk of flint. The grind is so pronounced as well, especially once the black has been stripped. It needs maintenance a good 20% more than my CR Pacific because it just accumulates crap like a magnet.
To be fair, I don't really think a 7 would beat the 5 once you've gotten into the habit, everything from the weight to the balance on the 5 I've found to be better suited for most things, what with the curved spine n'all.
Still, I ain't oppressing, try it out man. Maybe you'll love it.
About the Gerber BG knife, the steel is of decent quality. It is a little more into the stainless range than carbon so your weekend Rambo doesn't have to take care of it but it is a good steel. I don't want a hollow ground blade if it is going to be my only knife. Normally I have several knives in my survival kit ranging from tree chopping to skinning. If I had to limit myself to only one knife it would be either the SRK in Carbon 5 or the Outdoorsman in San Mai steel. Both are Cold Steel. The Outdoorsman has the advantage of a secondary blade on the spine for cutting through bone. Of course the SRK can do that with a little help. So, all things considered I would go with the SRK also.
good solid vid, and I agree with your 5 dislikes for a hunting/bushcraft knife.
The problem I have is the perceived cross over between hunting (and bushcrafting) knives and survival knives. IMHO a true 'survival knife should be on the larger size (so as you can effectively chop with it) and look at a minimum blade length of 8", my Cold Steel san maiIII Trail Master is a perfect example of a 'survival' knife, capable of ALL survival based tasks. I totally agree that hunting/bushcraft knives can be on the smaller side. With that being said I believe no one knife can be expected to be capable of doing all tasks and hence I am a tool heavy advocate and look at a two knife load out as standard (a large knife and a small knife on your belt, and I suggest having at least a multi tool in one pocket and a quality folder in the other, so my current bush knife set up features a CS Trail Master SMIII, CS Master Hunter SMIII, a Leatherman Wingman and a CS Ti-Lite [aus-8/zytel handle] with those 4 tools I can expect to cover every eventuality, and it gives me redundancy in case of loss or catastrophic damage). I also live by the adage 'there are many things a small knife cannot do, and few thing a large knife cannot do'
The the gerber knife "bear grills" is awesome. I have one and I've used it in the harshest of environments and the still hold very well. Just the right amount of carbon to steel ratio makes it a tough knife. Especially for chopping down wood, which happens often when trying to make spears or firewood/shelter. Don't hate on it.
The Bear Grylls knife is junk. The blade won't hold an edge.
SurvivalCommonSense That's too bad. My brother got me one from Christmas. I feel bad for him since he spent $48 on it.
I wouldn't trust my well-being to a mediocre knife, when you could get a good one for the same price. If you are looking for a lightweight knife for backpacking, get a Mora. They cost under $20, have excellent steel and a great design. The Bear Grylls knife I tested would let you down when you need it. It is junk.
What environments? Where?
heres an experiment for you. take the BG knife. put it outside in negative temps for a few hrs.then hit the side of the blade with something metal. with moderate force. gerber's steel is way too brittle and has too many impurities. it'll snap. best high carbon steel in all of China no doubt. you can get a mora for 20 bucks and it outclasses the BG knife everytime. also i believe BG himself uses a spyderco
I can't stand serrated edges and I'm struggling to find a suitable knife without one.
Keep looking - there are a lot of good ones on the market that don't use serrations.
Survival Common Sense I think I'm going to go with the gerber strong arm.
You can do better than Gerber. Check out Benchmade.
Survival Common Sense ok thanks I'll check them out
Ontario knife company, Benchmade, Esee, cold steel, ka bar (becker), Fallkniven.
Schrade knives are a great budget friendly option... I have put my knife through the ringer, hot summers, winter snow. I tried breaking it after purchasing a little more expensive knife, I don't even use the Ontario knife anymore...
One of the most useful videos about survival knifes out there. Liked.
How I wish, people would stop referring to the Cold Steel SRK and Master Hunter as "full tang" when they are nothing more than a typical stick tang, and a poorly designed one at that! They could at least add some flare to the tang, where it meets the blade, for far more strength.
You are lucky that thoughts cannot be copyrighted, as your thoughts and mine coincide almost word for word. Remember what Samuel Clemens said, "Common sense is the most uncommon sense of all."
Bruce Nitroxpro yeaaaa
Great video! I wholeheartedly agree! Blessings!
Certainly I agree with you about celeb endorsed/branded knives etc. These are only for people who almost never go into the wilds, very inexperienced in the wilds. Ok everyone doesn't start out as experienced so maybe as a beginner you might end up with one of these types of knives. Well made serrations I see no problems with and will not stop you whittling if you know what you are doing. Also it depends on the environment you plan to do your camping/hunting in will play a role in the type of knife you take with you. For example, I don't take my 35 year plus PUMA Hunters Friend on my coastal camping trips, it's gets taken on my hunting trips away from salt spray etc.
Yes, despite the presence of heavy duty folders now available in 2015, any folding mechanism is just another place for a knife to fail.
Good video!
Mora knives, although great, are NOT full tang.
+kev Mora recently marketed a full tang knife.
+Survival Common Sense yeah,and it's 10 times more expensive that their regular knives
+4NHK0 Their regular knives are worth 10 times what they cost. So what's the problem?
+Alan Heaberlin That's the point, great knives at cheap prices. Now for a bit of extra metal they expect 10 times the money! It's not even carbon steel, the new knife only comes in stainless.
I have a Reeves Yarbrough I pald 400 for but I like my Mora Black better. It was no 20 knife either I think it was 60 but I don't think you could break it.
Good video. Ignore all the haters. They're just mad because they wasted money on the BG toy knives
My reviews are intended to be fair. If the product is superior or inferior, that is pointed out.
I agree on the Bear Grylls knife. I bought one a few years ago with the serrated edge and both the serration and straight edge portions bent as well as the tip and I wasn't even using it for anything I would call intensive. I agree with you on the knife length too.
At last someone whose thoughts I echo!
Nice video - subscribed!
Excellent common sense and information.
I would agree with you on most of your opinions. I do however like serrations, easy to sharpen with a diamond or ceramic rod, they also work great for making fuzz sticks, but avoid the BG knife and its serrations! I like Gerber, I use and edc the Strongarm. However I never just take a knife to the woods, my tomahawk always comes along as well, as long as its sharp, it can do what my knife can do. Its good to test your gear, learn how to use it effectively and its limitations.
I have owned and used many knives over many years including monster 10" bladed Bowies, but the two that I fall back on for everything is a Pat Mitchell knife from Sheffield which has about a 4" blade, and a MOD survival knife with a 7" blade and is indestructable, these two knives have served me well for decades, one is for light/medium general work the other is for medium/heavy duty work
Can't argue with continued success!
You're totally right, sir (actually i hoped to be the same ones that i was thinking). I used to like big bowie knives because they look cool, but now i preffer the little portable and strong knives.
Thanks man. This video was really helpful. Nice video:) i subbed
I have personally fallen in love with the Tanto style, two straight edges make sharpening easy and you kind of have two points. The Cold Steel one kind of is the right size for me though if I was planning on needing to actually survive it would have to be a classic Ka-Bar but with the new Poly handles they put on them now.
thanks for your quick response.
as you say ya best tool is your common sense. I think the choice boils down to purpose and how long your away for. I will say sap will dull a blade like a machete but an axe as stated in the link you sent me works using velocity and sap wouldn't make a difference. also an axe has a heavy blunt edge which can prove useful. your a wise man thanks for sharing your knowledge.
totally agree with you. I have learned the same lesson about survival knife in 40+ years of outdoor life. Incredibile how many people forgot few, simple rules and found themself without knife (and other gear) in the middle of wood with half meter of snow sorrounding them
Hi again, I always wanted a Leuku ever since I saw a video on them, Actually SaraDreaming sparked the interest,, progress is change, alot of research and time refines your selection, thinking of the role of the Leuku got me to understand the true meaning what a survival knife should be, in my definition it's a one knife carry in a survival situation and has alot of function, chopping for shelter building, batoning for getting into dry wood when it's wet, dressing game, and robust enough to defend yourself so the size is important usually a 9 1/2" blade is about right size + or-, what an order, it took me a while of research to realize that a relief edge split wood better, today my favorite grind is a saber vex grind, I have a few knives with similar geometry, like my O.K.C. GEN2 SP-51, my BK-9, and my Swamp Rat Rodent 9, although I have more knives, I'll use these three as a example, they all function similarly, but yet I was able to pick out my Fav, I'm also finding out that the grain structure makes a big difference and the tempering plays a big role too, the tight grain in the steel plays a big difference, I believe it helps a knife to preform better on the wood, not only to have a better edge retention but just in overall preformance, I'm not for sure but I think the 1095 CroVan has a tighter grain structure than a 5160 carbon steel and I can see that in the preformance, same with the 52100 Ballbearing Steel, because of that for the money my go to Survival knife is my Swamp Rat Rodent 9 it's just the right size for me as a one knife carry even though I paired it off with my Ratmandu which I molle attached it to my backpack, and continued to carry my Rodent 9 as my on person carry incase I'm seperated from my pack and or group, I learned that from reading about the Indigenous Saame People and how they use their Leuku which is generally between 7" and 9" blade and they use their Leuku for EVERYTHING, so that's how I came to define what a survival knife definition is to me, after using my Rodent 9 more I'm actually am getting quite use to a larger blade, and yet there's no question that I can survive with it as a one knife carry, sure it's a little heavier than a Leuku but it's also a stronger knife, even Mors Kochanski suggested a strong knife is important in his book, so that's how I decided what my go to Survival knife is mine is the Swamp Rat Rodent 9, it's robust, and beefy, but I'm more than positive I can survive with it, sure there's more expensive knives that I have and also are great survival knives like my Busse A.S.H.B.M. LE. or my N.M.F.S.H. or even my Sarge 7 which is lighter but very capable, but it's the steel, my Rodent 9 after getting used to its size is my FAV., don't get me wrong I love my Busse.
Thank you for the good advice. I went and bought a new survival knife and knew what to look for and got a great knife and a great deal and avoided all the pit falls the locals here fall into. I got a Gerber Moment Fixed Blade, full tang, nice handle and good price. Thanks again.
Happy to be of assistance. Let me know how that knife works out for you!
Great and well done video! Thanks for posting.
I appreciate that you watched it!
Good info. I don't like serrated edges either but I do have one or two. Some like them for cutting rope and such but a really sharp plain edge should do that job just fine.
very informative and helpful. nice job leon. I'll definitely use this when buying my next knife.
Thanks fort he kind words!
good video no nonsense views While I like and do use big knives with 7 inch blades, those knives have never been useful to me on extended hunting trips and the one time I attempted to use a large clip point as a test for dressing out a mountain goat, I ended up switching to my trusty Puma Hunters friend that's seen tonnes of real dressing action. I subbed too.
I couldn't agree with you more, i have been using a cold steel master hunter for 20 years without fail all across Australia. Great review. :-)
Thanks - love the SRK and the Master Hunter!
Great video. I appreciate your insight.
I got the gerber lmf ii coyote tan it is so much better than any other knife I have had it works amazingly and it has partial serration but it helps me a lot when needing to cut thought thing and helps me with availability because the leg strap helps me not notice it . I love my knife!!
I haven't tried that model, but have heard good things about it.
I've had good luck with some serrated knives. Done right, serrations can be very useful and easily sharpened when needed.
i have a carbon steel Condor Bushcrafter, nice drop point and a K-bar 1440 stainless blank I equipped with a chunk of broom handle shaped, oiled and riveted on... the condor is almost 4" and the k bar is almost half that. each are sturdy, do great work, and have lasted. there's such a thing as too much knife. good vid! btw, the gut hook thing scares the daylights outta me - too easy to hook it onto me.
Great work on video mate
What do you think about Jimping? Thinking about getting a Schrader F42D I liked the blade design, but afraid I might hate it cuz of jimp..
I would go with my esse 6 from knife connection. Upgraded every part. Awesome knife.
Very practical. Really depends on the needs of the user. Always getting better, I'm glade we have choices.
I agree with the majority of your concerns. I have heard people ask "if you could only have 1 knife". I ask what extreme circumstance would that be where I could only carry 1 knife. It's like saying if you are going to rebuild an engine what 1 tool would you use!
The "if you could only have one knife" is an obvious hypothetical situation. I think the idea is to refine the characteristics to come up with the most likely candidate for the all-around title. I always carry three: a Swiss Army Classic, folding pocket knife and a rigid blade. All these except the Classic might change, based on the situation and individual needs.
For me, it's the ambush tundra! It's well designed and easy to handle, I like it so much I would buy two if only I could afford it!!!
FKMD FOX TRAPPER Knife ...any good? I am looking for heavier knife that can dable for a small axe...
very informative. plus I like the style of presentation. thank you and all the best in 2017.
Enjoyed your video. Thank you for posting it. I agree with you about the serrations and about folding knives. I got a nasty cut when I was a kid from a folding knife that collapsed. I don't agree with your assessment of the BG knife. I've been using it from some time now and it is simply fantastic. They've missed nothing on that one! If the same knife didn't have BG on it I bet you might feel differently about it. Thoughts?Again, great video and thank you for posting it!
The les stroud article is great. It holds up against a kabar Becker B2, gerber lmf 2, and many more top of the line knives.
Very interesting video! I agree with a lot you say. Opinel are very nice knives, great for cutting food and ropes. Number 8 is small and light whilst size 10 is most allround, great carbon steel! My ideal for handle is stacked Birch bark, warm to the hand and non slippery. The CS SRK seems to be ideal as survival knife.The problem with full tang is that any shock will be transmitted to the hand and the weight. Gerber is part of a big company/conglomerate with "Fiskars"...
ok.. so i looked around for a good while and finally ended up purchasing the bear grylls ultimate pro knife. unlike the previous ultimate knife, its full tang, premium steel, it also has a good size and weight,carbine sharpener,firesteel, sheath that takes the knife in both directions..can do it all. I did not buy it because it was a bear grylls knife, i bought it because i couldnt find a better knife in its price range. enjoying it so far. Bear grylls by the way did use the old ultimate knife in one if his episodes in new zealand in season of man vs wild..as a person who has watched every episode of his shows, i can say he has encouraged me as an indoor computer rat to love the outdoors. His advice to me is great and I admire his can do attitude.. Ofcourse his shows are over exaggerated at times, duh its tv, but still alot of good info there and its fun to watch.
Very well put together!.. and I agree on so many points, my preference is the Ghurka Khukri with the burnishing tool and small blade "chakma" great for gathering firewood and quartering out an Elk, practically indestructible and quite easy to keep razor sharp. some of the best new examples I have purchased are from "Tora Blades in Devon, U.K." provided by Simon Hengle trainer to the Ghurka's.
As I mentioned, this video is my opinion, and I enjoy hearing other thoughts about the topic.
Solid advice and common sense. I need to get a Cold Steel SRK.
Todd S Obviously, I love my SRK. Today, there are a lot of similar knives of equal quality.
thanks for the great video. I'm making my first knife. using an old edger blade. was going to add a gut hook till I watched this and now share your caution.
You can order a dedicated guthook from Buck Knives for about $20. I wouldn't screw up a good knife spine with a guthook.
What do you think of the shrade schf1sm? All one piece of carbon steel?
Hey Leon, great video, I agree with you on all fronts. I carry an Esee Izula with me every day, and I was wondering what thoughts you might have about it. I think it's perfect for edc and can be a great survival knife, albeit the blade being a bit small.
I like ESEE knives and looked at the Izula. What stopped me from getting one is the handle length - I have large hands, and I need a minimum of four inches in the handle to comfortably use it. This is the one I'm considering: www.knivesshipfree.com/esee-knives/izula/izula-ii/esee-knives-izula-neck-knife-kit-od-green/
The blade is small, but that's fine.
I marked the small blade on my pocket knife to see how much I actually use in everyday carry. I found that most of what I do can be done with about a one inch blade. Unless you're actually in the wilderness, the Izula should perform very nicely. I have the ESEE-3 and like it a lot.
The hollow point is used to attach it to a branch for a makeshift spear. Like the Cold Steel Bushman series of knives. No one would carry anything in the hollow handle except maybe some paracord. But like you said you cannot fit much in the handle.
Good video totally agree thanks for sharing
The hollow handle on the cold steel bushman can be used to store things but is simply a buy product of the way it's made. That handle is not coming off. Putting a fire starter kit and a fishing line, hooks and sinkers would seem to be an astute thing to do. That you can stick a handle on it might prove to be a benefit.
Very nice tutorial.
Good information people can stand by. This just my opinion but when more than one party (that has no affiliation) gives similar advice, about the same subject you can take it as pretty solid intel’.
Thanks, i was on the fence with a BG knife and now i will not get it. i agree with what you have said and appreciate the time you took to educate me. i think i will try and get a John Neeman..... your thoughts?
I'm not familiar with the brand - can you send me a link?
I like your excellent points I use the Esse 4.
This was very informative and useful.
Excellent video my friend.. I usually see videos like this and will sometimes agree with maybe half of the other persons review comments or statements.. But, today while watching you, I can honestly say I was shocked because I agreed with everything you said.. It's strange to have so many common viewpoints on any certain issue, but believe it or not, we do. You gave the absolute truth regarding Serrated, gut hooked, knives etc. and it's refreshing to see my thoughts have substance. Thanks again
I agree with most of what you say. Especially using a full tang blade and not a folder. Don't get me wrong I've been collecting for yrs and love my various folders. Just not good when your in the woods and really need that extra durability/peace of mind. I currently use a SOG Pentagon for my survival/woods knife as well as a CRKT Hammond design A.B.C...( i'll probably catch hell as both are dual sided blades).Like you I always have some type of Swiss army knife but I also keep a Cold steel tactical/thrower. I had to make my own sheath for it but its a darn good survival knife. Just meat and potatoes with a para cord wrapped handle for less than 20 bucks. Definitely worth checking out. I even keep one in my guitar case. Lol... Nice review thanks,N8knox
Good information. Thanks.
I've used my LTWK Genesis for almost three years now. The Kephart design and A2 steel has served me very well in all tasks.ease of sharpening and general maintenance afield is important to me .With the DWX kydex sheath, the Genesis is my go to blade. Good info ,Leon. ~Jon Adams
My Genesis gets a lot of use. There's nothing flashy about it - it just works. For everything.
I think I'd like to have a flip, dual blade knife, where it puts off the impression that it has a one piece construction, but there are two blades that flip and lock on either side, with a non-serrated normal blade on one side and gut hook or serrated blade on the other side.
I use partially serrated edges on my knives quite often in my home area (south Florida) for cutting palm fronds, rope, or other fibrous materials. I agree that it's not especially useful to most people though. A folding saw would work for that as would a machete, but if I only have one knife with me for survival and shelter building it needs a partially serrated edge. Thanks for the video.
IamElmerJFudd The serrated edges are a specialty edge, and it works quite well for its intended, specific purpose. But I don't like serrations for overall use.
WOW. As a Combat Survival Instructor I must confess I hit the play button on your video with some serious skepticism. But having now watched your video I would agree with absolutely everything you said -you're right on the money. As an instructor, the most common questions I get is "What kind of knife do you recommend?" or "What kind of knife do you use?" I have my favorites, but I really dislike telling students what knife to get because people's needs are different and knives vary greatly, so I try not to give away my favorites. I like your approach -instead of saying what knife to get, providing sound advice about what not to get in a knife is a practical approach. I had to smile when you said you don't like serrated blades. I hate them as well. However having said that, the only exception to that is I have a very small knife attached and dedicated to my magnesium fire starting bar. It's a dual straight and serrated blade because I find shaving the bar with the straight edge is great, but I get more spark with in the flint using a serrated edge. You deserve a medal for putting Rambo to rest. When someone pulls out their Rambo knife I swear my eyes automatically roll into the back of my head and I begin to contemplate how many secret missions this yahoo before me has actually been on -I always hope they can't hear my Pffftttt! Have you ever considered a follow up video explaining steels used in knives? Nicely done to you Sir. RESPECT.
+Maximus Meridius Thanks for the kind words! I don't have the expertise to do an in-depth explanation of steels. I did a story on them a few years back, relying on another credible source: survivalcommonsense.com/best-knife-steels/
In order from best to worst (from the ones you just stated):
- Lock backs
- Frame locks
- Liner locks
- Opinel lock.
You're not the only one with experience with (all) those mechanisms. Have you ever tried to put some pressure on the spine of an Opinel blade? A good frame or liner lock will always outperform the lock of an Opinel.
Heh, I don't fancy serrations that much either. I don't think I've used three-point serrations ever... that Leatherman Wave he showed includes a key-hole saw that is much more aggressive... and similar larger models also accept T-shank jigsaw blades, so you can install metal or bi-metal blades if you find some small enough. The serrated blade he showed is somewhat pointless if you have a saw option on the same multitool.
I carry 2 knives. Mora black carbon around my neck and a benchmade bushcrafter in my backpack. My two favorite knives.
Good choices! I always carry a Mora style knife.
thanks for posting, great video
Glad you liked it!
You have same views as me and am looking into getting a srk as it just ticked all my box's and you have topped it off thanks Alex
I love the SRK. But if you're interested in a more upscale knife with really good steel, check out the Bark River Bravo lt or the Bark River Sahara. Both are very, very good knives.