What about the ESEE 5? 5 inch blade, 1095 High Carbon, Kydex sheath, thicker then the ESEE 6 (More durable) has a built in glass breaker ( cause your not always surviving in the woods) and a bow drill divot on the handle.
@@johncrouch8988the esee 5 isn’t really a knife. it’s a pry bar with an edge, and it doesn’t hold a great edge at that. it’s way too thick at the edge to be good for actual knife tasks
Okay, Leather does not retain moisture, if you treat it. I use boiled linseed oil to water proof leather knife sheaths. And you can always use something called Snow Seal. As for cutting it or it wearing out. I guess it depends on how you use it. I think Kydex, is usually too bulky and it rattles. Yes, I have had some experience with Kydex and Cold Steel's Secur-Ex. I have since added to my collection a Khukuri with a 12 inch blade, it is the only knife in my collection I would chop and split wood with. Because, that is what it was designed to do. I will soon have a Khukuri with a six inch blade, should be very useful around camp. As for the "Over Molded" tang on some knives. Well, Buck and Kabar both do that with some of thier knives. And they are still great knives.
Gerber LMF 2 infantry is my knife of choice. A lot of my buddies used them overseas while I had nothing lol. I know it's not the best, but it's not the worst either in my opinion. Love ur channel brother, both the old and new stuff 👍🇺🇸
@First Last People hunted gigant deer and wooly mamoth with wooden spears. They made a point on a stick and hardened it in the fire. This works, but be carefull not burning the point.
You key point was the sharpening. So many people avoid this issue and let's face it if you are not skilled at sharpening then the 1095 is going to be better to start with than a higher HRC stainless alloy/s.
Good info. My take is yes, get “YOUR perfect knife”, AND equally important (imho) is the marriage to a good quality, multi purposed sheath. A sharpen stick AND a fire stick/bar attached onto the sheath. Us “Joe Average” folks have not the skills to sharpen w/ a river rock etc. , & fire is flat out necessary.
Thanks for your presentation of these knives. I'm 70 and still love nature and the outdoors. Too many people take much longer to present half as much info. Could say much more but for now just keep on doing what you do here. MikeC
Couldn't agree more about serrations. I've carried and used knives every day for literally 40 of my 45 years and have never liked or seen a need for them for the very reasons you articulated. My father and grandfathers never did either.
Man, everybody is different. While I don't like the recurve, that SCHF-9 fits me like a glove & is the most balanced & comfortable big knife I have felt in my hand.
I tend to agree with all your recommendations and recently purchased and esee 6. Thanks for an excellent, well thought out video. Years ago, I had an experience with uncoated 1095, leather sheaths and rain, would have given anything for just a kydex sheath, but that was back in the late 70's, not much of that around then. Love the esee 6, great knife! Keep up the great work you're doing!
totally agree with the choice of Esee 6. it's not even about what it has, but everything it doesn't have. it doesn't have a narrow clip point, jimping everywhere, weirdly shaped handle, gimmicky grind, serrations, etc. it's just a well made, simple survival knife than can do it all.
Survival knife, I'm going with my Bark River, Bravo 1.25 in 3V steel, with a DLT kydex sheath. I pretty much use it everyday and the set up works great. Wish more people would review Bark River, they are a great company and have lots of great designs too. Great video and great advice, I always recommend my friends to watch your channel if they are interested in getting non biased knife reviews.
I watched so many amazing reviews about knives regardless if it's bush craft or survival knives because I love knives. And I think this is the best review I ever watched so far. You covered almost everything of the most important aspects of what a true survival knife should be. You exolained it well enough. And I totally agree with all of your opinion. You're such a very good observant person just like me. Keep it.
Nice job! Stainless gets a bum wrap sometimes. Many knife makers say it takes more care and skill to work with but treated properly it can hold an edge and sharpen up easily. I think it's a good low maintenance choice.
I'm making my very first knife and this video answered a lot questions I had regarding survival knife design! Great way of explaining the do's and don't s. Many thanks!!!
Say Heah Aaron, Usually I don't go smaller than a 6" blade. Like my Modde Rodent 6, my A-1 or my new Arvensis 119, But because my Modified Attitude is stout, I can trust it as a Survival Knife also. Job well done as usual. Thanx You. ,, .
i'm just wondering about "survival" in general and i just don't get it how long are you going to survive for before either being rescued/find your way/ die ? any knife with a decent steel will (if sharp enough at the beginning) hold its edge long enough to attain any of these ends, so if i have to survive for a longer time i'm either prepared not really survival(thus a sharpening kit) or i'll have absolutely no kit and no knives at all (evasion & escape, plane crash boat wreck) maybe i'm shortsighted but i just don't get it my opinion
some experts are predicting WW3 and/or a civil war and/or a depression... too bad all of this survival stuff costs so much. that Esee-6 is about $200. I just looked up that affordable $40 knife and some guys are showing pics or videos of it breaking - but that is when they use it to chop. That $30 survival shovel seems a decent way to chop, too. $70 for 2 items or $200 for one? Depends on the person, I guess.
Good video and excellent points! However, I think most blade/handle designs are all personal preference. For people looking for a blade, personally seeing and touching it is the best way to know if it fits your hand and if its comfortable. Thats how I picked my Schf9. That handle was made for me! Even if the knife is expensive or cheap, do your research! Sheath is the last thing I worry about. Upgrading is an option and it can be personalized to my liking. Practice using your knife too!
I like your video and agree with most of what you said. I just got some knives shipped today and can hardly wait to u box them. I got a Mora and a Schrade 52. They should take care of most of the tasks I will need. Being on a low/no budget for about $50.00 I am now a HAPPY CAMPER!
I listened to what you have to say holding onto a Dadley. This was a favorite of Mt men during the height of the fur trade in the Rockies. Guys bought these in large numbers at least in part because they did a great job skinning fur bearers but they still over wintered in the Rockies and these blades could do about anything they needed a knife to do and they so don't meet your list. If I were going to pay any attention to your list at all I'd go with a BK-10 rather than a BK-2. They are both tough and robust but once a knife has all the metal it needs adding more just makes it heavy. Heavy means you don't have it with you when you need it.
This video came up in my feed today and, of course, I had to watch it again. 😉 I believe the TOPS Tahoma Field Knife is one of the best all around “survival knives”. One of my Tahoma’s is in my Jeep kit, and the other is my backup knife in my main wilderness bag. But my go-to blades when I’m headed out to the wilds, that I always carry, are the TOPS Armageddon and Brakimo.
Fallkniven A1, S1 and F1 are awsome. Dont know if the convex grind is hard to sharpen in the field? The spines can strike firesteels too and skrape tinder, so thats a pluss. I still would go for the 1095 over the laminated VG-10, because i have chipped my F1 a few times. It does hold an edge better than the 1095, so i guess you have to choose whats important for you. Living in Norway i like the plastic sheats the best. Kydex is not the best in cold klimates, but down to minus 10 degrees celsius its fine. Great video and great comment on the Fallknivens!
This video definitely helped out with what to look for in my survival knife! Thank you again for a great video and review of the knives. I ultimately ended up with the Schrade SCHF52, it included a nylon sheath, and plastic insert and also a ferro rod and striker as well as a sharpening stone with a pocket on the sheath to store the items! thumbs up!
I have a BK2, I just removed the nylon belt loop and attached a techlock and I'm still trying out different ways to carry it. I'm not so sure wearing anything scout style in the middle of your back is such a great idea. If you end up falling backwards it seems like that would really mess up your back.
jstorer1980 I carry mine on the straps of the pack I'm carrying usually the maxpedition jumbo or my usmc molle 2 only good way I could figure to carry my bk2
Some people knock the ESEE 6's plastic sheath, but it will cover more environmental situations than the Kydex. Here in AZ if you leave Kydex in your vehicle on a hot summer day, the Kydex will will dis-form and the sheath will become loose and open up making the fit loose. Kydex can also become more brittle in the Cold. Now the thickness of the Kydex used makes a huge difference in this regard so if you run a Kydex sheath I would use a minimum thickness of 0.093" or else there will more issues.
I just do camping, but I want to buy a very good knife, I have seen many videos of different kind of knife, but this one that you have made have a very good information, Thank for all details you have narrated and described for what to look in a survival knife.
I have to agree with the Esee 6. I was in a survival situation while camping in the Chiricahua Mountains here in Arizona and I was carrying another knife that definitely was not a survival knife. Everything turned out ok, but, I now carry my Esee 6 with me when ever I am in the wilderness. In fact part of the reason I bought an Esee 6 was your review. Great Knife!
awesome video! You put all factors of survival knives into perspective, gave specific examples, covered all facets including weight, thickness, and more importantly the type of metal. Amazing details and execution considerations. I think the ESEE 6 is my next purchase
Great video brother! I scrolled through the comments and it's really disheartening how many negative people inhabit this planet! Keep up the good work and to hell with the negativity!👊🏼
Great vids. Really appreciate all the clear concise video without unintelligible jargon. As a n00b to outdoor cutlery this and your other videos have been very helpful. Subbed.
Great job! Very informative, you impart a lot of knowledge in an easy to understand communications style. Your passion comes through and holds interest. I have watched a lot of videos on this subject. This is one of the best.
I had a 5....I bought a 4 for My Nephew which I absolutely know would be a better survival knife. I have been using knives for 45 years... I find myself doing far more tasks with a 3- 4 inch blade....
Great video, Aaron! Thanks for doing this ... lots of good stuff to consider. (But you made my BK16 a little sad ... it came in a little short to qualify).
Enjoyed your video very much.... a very well informed tutorial on Survival Knives, the important thing to remember is the Survival Knife has to perform various tasks good not great. The "Unknowns" of a real world survival situation demand as much preparation and informed information as possible when choosing your knife. The point must be made that the BK2 Gen2 one of the knives featured in this video is not a full tang knife.....remove the scales and you will find it has a hollow tang. My personal belief that the "Unknowns" that may present itself in a real world survival situation demand a full tang solid steel knife, failure of your Survival Knife may have life changing consequences. I do own and have used the Gen2 BK2, SCHF9, SCHF36 and Esee5. My personal criteria of a bet your life on Survival Knife is,1/4 thick drop point blade ,full solid steel tang, good ergonomics and construction (1095 steel). Therefore the Esee5 not mentioned in this video meets my personal criteria and is the knife of my choice when or if that day ever comes. Thanks again for the video Gideonstactical!
Hey here is one "survival" knife seldom reviewed but I reckon it's great, The Italian company, Extrema Ratio's Ontos, just had it EDC basically for one whole month in the jungle/bush LOL.
I'm now carrying the Esee Junglas II for my survival knife. I find the few extra oz and still under 20 oz. Make it better at chopping and isn't way too long.
One of your best vids! Yes, I realize it is over 4 years old now, but I just found it. So I agree that the Esee 6 is a great one, but my personal criteria includes a sub-$100 price point...actually well "sub" haha! You can't hit all the criteria at that price-point, but you can come close with the Schrade 52, and it is only 37 bucks. Its got the ballistic nylon sheath, although a good one, and it is a sabre hollow ground blade. Being this is 1/4" thick stock I don't mind a slight hollow grind. There are advantages in cutting tasks with this style blade too. Anyway, great vid!
Hey Aaron, Great video brother! I happen to own both the ESEE 6 and the BK2 and I also happen to find both of them to be my preferred go to knives as well. But I did want to mention a couple of things I have _personally_ found to be of interest. Although they are both great knives, I do happen to personally find the BK2 handle to be more comfortable and conform to the hand better than the ESEE 6's rather *blocky* handle. I really wish ESEE would make the handles more *round* in cross-section to help with comfort. The blades themselves however, are a different story. I do prefer the thickness of the ESEE 6 blade over the BK2 simply because the BK2's extremely thick blade can make doing food prep or fine carving rather difficult due to the *very obtuse* saber grind. Whereas the ESEE 6's slimmer, full flat ground blade is more conducive to a wider array of tasks. But at the end of the day, the *only* thing that makes me sometimes go for the BK2 over the ESEE 6 is the handle! The BK2 is just more comfortable _in my opinion_. But I love ESEE's no questions asked warranty policy on their knives! So you can really go into the woods and not worry about your knife! It's really a *big comfort!* Likewise, even thought Kabar doesn't have the warranty policy that ESEE does, I think you would be *VERY* hard pressed to *EVER* break a BK2... Matter of fact, I think I remember reading somewhere that Kabar stated that they have only ever had a *handful* of BK2's _ever_ come back to their factory! As for the sheaths, the BK2 *does* come with 2 optional sheaths from the factory. The original molded plastic drop sheath being more along the lines of what you were recommending. Now, I know that Ka-bar had problems with this sheath dulling the knives a while back, but I believe that issue has since been resolved. I also happen to have the ballistic nylon sheath for the BK2 and don't believe that this would really be much, if _any_, more of a burden than kydex or molded plastic personally. You are right, the ballistic nylon sheaths can rattle, but it's never bothered me nor do I find a reason that I would need to be *that* quiet LOL! If there is any rattle, it certainly is not obnoxious enough to where it would actually begin to bother me or get on my nerves. Also, one advantage that the ballistic nylon sheaths have over kydex, is that they usually have a nice little pouch on the front for a ferro rod and/or sharpener which is nice! If your kydex sheath has attachment points, I'm sure you can add on a pouch similar to how you can purchase the molle back and pouch for the ESEE 6 sheath, but once again, that goes against what your shooting for in this video. Your looking for the *most* you can get *stock* from the factory without any *modifications* or *add-ons* and it's for this reason I think the ballistic nylon's pouch is a nice touch! I think if I had the option to get any style sheath straight from the factory than yes, I would definitely go for Kydex first, then probably molded plastic, then ballistic nylon with the kydex insert. I believe any one of these options are pretty resilient and pretty impervious to weather and moisture. The ballistic nylon may get damp, but will quickly dry out, whereas leather will hold moisture _and rot_ as you mentioned in this video. In conclusion, the point I'm getting at is that handle comfort in my opinion is *as important*, if not *more important* than the knife itself! Because you could have the most well made knife in the world, but if it's uncomfortable to hold and use for extended periods, you're eventually going to stop using it... It's in this area that I think ESEE could be paying a little bit more attention... If only they could make the sides of their handles more rounded and less *flat & blocky*, their knives would be _almost_ perfect! I say _almost_ perfect because I'm still not a fan of blade coatings. They don't allow for ferro rod usage, and they look like crap once the coating starts getting worn off... The textured coatings are also generally *rough* and make it much harder to push cut due to the increased friction and drag created by the rough coating. I would rather a polished blade and deal with keeping it oiled and/or force a patina. Great job Aaron! You did a wonderful job touching upon all very valid points to be concerned with when looking for a good survival knife! I love these videos! =) Keep at it brother! PS- TurtleWolf Pack is right about a few things too. American Tanto blades are not hard to resharpen. As he said, they are merely treated as two separate straight blades - easy! Recurved blades however are a pain in the ass! The Schrade SCHF9 in this video is a recurve pattern, however nothing was mentioned about it's blade shape. The steeper the recurve, the narrower the sharpening stone has to be to get into the recurved belly properly! Most of the time however, you just have to resort to using a sharpening rod of some type. The problem with sharpening rods is that they not only don't allow you to really effectively sharpen the tip of your knife, but also will easily round off and blunt the tip of your knife if your not careful! You really _should_ use a flat stone if you want to keep a well defined, sharp tip on your knife. Personally, I would much rather carry a Tanto blade into the woods rather than a recurve blade. I would just make sure that the Tanto *did not* have a swedge. But in general, I agree with you in that I just prefer a simple standard blade shape.
Totally agree with you/ Esee 6 for sure. However I also love my Esee 5/ it's a beast as well. Great videos you put out. I'm a big fan. Keep doing them. Stay safe.
Very helpful video.For about 2 years I've been looking for a survival knife for my BOB,and the ESSE 6 is what I have been looking to buy.Now I know that is the knife to buythanks to your video.
Im still happy you recommended the esee 6 a while back to me... it is even better than i expected for me with my big hands... i recently bought the molle back for it for more carry versatility and the button snap is a good secure feeling when carrying her inverted... one of my most loved blades!... greets...
I find that the upper limit for a 'knife' is around 7 inch blade, bigger than that is moving into a chopping tool. I like ESSE knives but they pricey, I can buy the near equivalent Ontario RAT 7, sheath is OK for me.
I've been doing this kind of stuff since 1969, and I have to say, you have impressed me. I have to agree with Literally Melvin, though, digging with a blade is a no-no. You blade is a valuable resource, conserve it at all costs.
I'm okay with my elmax 5150 field knife. Great all around blade. I make sure I have a stone to keep it sharp in the bug out bag. The idea is to get good at keeping it sharp before shtf.
Knife definitions: Survival knife: A knife you have on you when the need unexpectedly arrives. Bushcraft Knife: A “camp knife” suitable for camp chores such as building a shelter, making a feather stick, fixing a meal or light chopping of firewood. Tactical knife: A knife capable of use as a weapon to defend yourself in case of attack of either animal or human. Pocket knife: A knife you would normally carry in your pocket in a casual way every day. (This knife sometimes becomes your survival knife.) The ideal survival knife is hardly the one you're going to have on you when the need arrives. If you're out hiking and happen to get lost and you have your “stuff” with you then you're in luck. You have the perfect situation just like it was planned, but it's usually not that way in the real world.
I totally agree that unless your like Chris from preparedmind101. That is going to modify every piece of gear he gets to make it perfect for you, the ESEE 6 is as close to perfect out the box as you can expect out of a 120$ knife. I just wish it had a 90 degree spine for striking fire steels and bark scraping. Great video Aaron! Keep them coming
I have 3 survival knives. If I go into our city and travel underground subways etc I bring a Gerber LMF II cause in a disaster I want non full tang insulated with serrations to cut various materials. If I travel towards the country I bring a Ka-Bar Crewman. After a disaster when people are scrounging for food I would carry my Ka-Bar USMC for fighting rather than chopping up wood along with my large tanto serrated TDI for backup. Ok 4.
I cary edc folding blades all the time. My favorite is the full size Griptilian. Not that I found that I am getting into and doing research on fixed knife fir vehicle bag. I live in Nor Cal, very rural city environment. for that reason not looking for a large huge blade. I love the BK22 & LMF2. I feel they are great but tank like blades. I'm now pretty much looking at Esee RC 4/5. Thanks for the videos love the channel.
i packed a 440c for years not once did fail me tell drug addic stole it it was so good ill be going back to one soon ive looked at lot new knife thay can get close to my old 440c
A small sharp blade is better for most bushcraft tasks. Its good to add a 7 dollar Mora to your kit for those tasks. And something tiny in your first aid kit.
Excellent video, thank you. I am going to say the following from the standpoint of someone who has little first hand experience, so bear with me please. I don't mind to be proven wrong: When it comes to steel, 1095 is pretty much the golden standard of outdoor and survival knives and indeed - it appears to be about the most used knives in said knives also in higher price categories. But I have one point that makes me wonder: the toughness. 1095 is - whatever way you look at it - not a particularly tough steel. Even at hardness of say 58 HRC, it offers around 10 ft-lbs of toughness. In comparison, 80CrV2 is at 30+, 5160 at 45+, 51200 at 30+. When it comes to simple (and fairly easy to sharpen) stainless steels - even AEB-L is at 40+ and 12C27 at 25 and I am not even mentioning steels that have higher carbide content and thus also better edge retention (like 3V or Cruwear), as I fully follow and agree with your point that the steel should be easy to sharpen in the field (though I would still think that carrying a 1x4" sharpening stone like for example Spyderco double stuff or some small 400 grit diamond plate would go a long way with little weight penalty). 1095 in fact has toughness very comparable to S35VN, CPM-154, Elmax, Vanax or XHP. Again, nothing wrong with 1095, but when it comes to toughness it would not - to me - look like a first choice of a simple steel for a survival knife. Am I missing something obvious in the above? Just curios, nothing more. Thanks again for the great video. P.S. All the values I have mentioned are of course from Larrin's excellent article "Testing edge retention of 48 knife steels"
Only problem with having a knife set only for survival is unless you carry it everytime you leave the house you're more than likely not gonna have it when it's needed
ok aron and thanks for your advise. i like too the boker vox rold. i'll not choose the esee 6 because too expensive for me ; i'm french and in France this knife is at 190 eu !!! it will complete my small fixed blade made in corsica (french island in the South of France). i'll show you pics of this knife craft handing... thanks again and let's keep in touch please. thanks again.
Great description; however, I feel that 90 degree spine as described by Mr. Canterbury is a very important feature that must be included. Of course, your best knife, the ESEE man lol... Gracias
Say Heah Aaron, Yup, I like to carry a small/large Knives. It just depends how you carry them. Last weekend I used a older combo that I have for a while now. I took my O. K. C. Ranger Afghan and my Ranger RD-9 I also used my BK-14 as my neck knife. Oh, and I brought my WoW Folding Saw. I sharpened my Rangers on my Work Sharp and all three blades are very sharp. Old reliables is what I call them. I beat on them and I have no worries using them hard. Oh, don't get me wrong, there's a difference using them hard and abusing them. I treat them with care when I'm not using them. I clean and keep them oiled. But also those O. K. C. Boxy Handles need to be filed or sanded down to fit your hand. Yeah, the Rangers were designed by a Army Ranger so he had survival in mind when they were designed. The Ranger Afghan I used as my fine task knife e. I. feathersticking, twist splitting kindling and sling off Bark of sticks. The Ranger RD-9 is more like my Survival Knife that I can baton chop with. L@@King at the edge my Afghan has a continuous curve actually similar to a Mora believe it or not. The RD-9 has a straight edge which will form wood similar to a Carpenter Hatchet. But at a 1/4 and not too wide so there's not alot of wood drag it splits real good. I wanted to buy another set just like it incase they grew legs and walked away. But just the Afghan I seen sold for $300.00 yeah, go figure. Anyhow, that's why I carry both knives. I do that with most of my knives. As usual another good review, Keep up the good work.,,. p
I really appreciated all your knowledge and insight. I watched your review of the Tops Silent Hero and will be ordering it next week. I live in the high desert of eastern Oregon and would rather have the quiet of the leather over the kydex. Great information in a clear concise and unbiased review, thank you.
Good job my friend very to the point ,not prejudice at all matter of fact you go way out of your way to be fair. Thank you for all you do. Bill Finetti California
My sch 38 almost covers all of your criteria. even though its classed as a bushcraft knife. The 38 has a much stronger tip than the 36 and 37. It came with a really bad nylon sheath but I enjoy making kydex sheaths and doing mods to my knives. I cant do anything about the hollow grind though.
What pisses me off about every video I see on survival knives or just knives in general is, people keep saying that bushcraft knives are different than survival knives. It's like everyone makes it seem like your planing before hand to go out and have that kind of situation, or I guess we all need to carry both kinds of knives with us you know just in case. You as a woods man need to pick a knife that can do many tasks well so you don't get fucked the day you really have a problem, and the I'm never going to have anything happen to me is foolish, just ask that dude that had to cut off his arm. Shit happens no matter how much you think you know.
I have watched more reviews than most. I have more knives than most. I am 64 and can say I like your vids as well as ANY I HAVE SEEN. I am into canoe and kayaking and keep a deck bag loaded with stuff I take in motor boat as well as paddling. Not so much if in a pack. Well in this I have a BK2. Will have in back pack also if doing that. On belt I have for years carried a BK7 or ESEE 6 untill last year or so I seem to have gone down in size. BK16 .Benchmade 162. Laser Strike,Mora Bushcraft, I find better for belt carry. I also have a multi tool and ESEE 3 on me most always. I seem to like a Tomahawk and smaller knife of late. I carry a chest holster with handgun as not good arounf waist if in kayak. Anyway I do like and respect your vids. I hope u keep it going.
You really should check out the Ritter-Becker RSK MK2. It's more or less an esee 6 with on choil (and a thumb ramp) with the Becker handle. It's even a Rowen made blade! It's a gooder
I know this is an old video, but this is my first time watching it. Another thing to consider when choosing blade steel is the environment you live in. As someone who lives in the coastal South, I've found 420HC to be my steel of choice for most of my knives, survival or otherwise. 1095 is a great steel, but during the hurricane season (F-you, Irma), it's a PITA to keep rust off of it due to the constant rains and humidity. 420HC will hold up to blatant abuse better than the super stainless', but won't rust up as quick as the full carbons.
I want to get a good knife I'm torn between the tops Bob and the tops tex Creek XL what do u think. i carry a folder, wingman, tops something we will see and a good little ax in the woods
I bought the ESEE 6 because of this video and let me say Aaron, you are 100,000 percent correct! I love this knife and I'll be taking a 7 day trip soon into the mountains to camp and this blade is going with me..it's my favorite knife and you are my favorite knife reviewer hands down, keep up the good work bud!
Hi again Aaron! Man, that was a truly awesome & entertaining video...& you didn't even do any field tests bc they have already been done by you. I love my ESEE 6 & you are the one that recommended it to me! "HANDS DOWN" LOL. Thanks.
That was excellent. I took notes and I'm still looking for that perfect, and actual, 'wilderness survival knife'. The one's recommended are certainly up there for contenders but I'm still researching. Thank you for the views and examples.
I agree that plastic/kydex sheaths are better, however, I have found that leather and nylon sheaths are much more quiet than kydex or plastic. Just my experience.
I choose the Gerber prodigy. Was that a descent choice or should I go get something else ? And hello from Kentucky land between the lakes and God bless. 🇺🇸 🇬🇧 🇨🇦
Bushcraft or survival knife are the same concept. So lets say you go bushcrafting for a weekend and you have your bushcraft knife on you. Now shtf and you need to get back in a hurry. What changed? You go back home and get your survival knife? Than go back to where you were located and 'survive'? Suddenly you need to cut down trees? Break open car doors? Or are the tasks you are doing with your knife the same as when bushcrafting?
Hi Aaron, an excellent review, I agree with you on alot of points, but in my experience, no mater how much I use just one knife, and try to use it as a one knife carry, I find theres certain areas that the knife will falls short at, in my opinion, I consider myself as a 3knife carry, a slicer usually a 3/ 1/2"-4", that I will neck carry, or attached to the front straps on my backpack, my on person carry knife, will be a 5"+-6"+ (up to my Rodent 7 size, I've been using in a one knife carry), just incase I'm seperated from my pack, a chopper 8"+-12"+, is always attached with my molle straps on the back of my pack, just to identify what knives they are, my slicer's could be the my Skookum, John Bradley "Worlds Finest Camp Knife", or my BK-14, or my Mini Scandi by Tops, or my Rodent Solution, Bushcrafter # 162, etc., my Field/Camp/ Survival Knife, could be my BK-2, or my O.K.C. Ranger Afghan, my favorites the Ratmandu, Rodent 6 without the top gaurd, it looks like a beefy Ratmandu on steriods, or my Rodent 7, they don't have simple handles, I call them the lightning bolt shape, but it is a very comfortable handle, same with that Schrade, I call that handle a seahorse shape, again a very comfortable shape, Swamp Rat Chopweiler have that shape too, my choppers could be the O.K.C. SP -53 (a beast, literally a sharp hammer), SP-51, my favorite the Rodent 9, BK-9, BK-4, or one of my Khukuris etc., even my C.S. Kukuri Plus in 0-1, I'm always trying to reduce my knife carry, but always fall short in certain areas, if I don't consider a saw, and axe as a knife carry, three knives shine, my Ratmandu, or the Rodent 6, or the Rodent 7, plus the saw, and axe, the more I try to keep it simple, the more complicated it becomes, great food for thought, like I said before, I really enjoy your videos, keep up the good work, I do understand your point, you did a great job on what a survival knife should be, and you made that point clear, and I totally agree with you, but I find, I need multiple carry, using your criteria on each knife I carry, because, just one knife, it will fall short in certain areas, again, Thanx alot, good job.
paulie 4x Thanks so much for the comment and compliment. I don't disagree with you and I rarely carry only one fixed blade. I wanted to give a general idea of what to look for in a survival knife. It is my number one question I get from people, is what's a good survival/bushcraft knife. Thank again and I like hearing your point of view!
What about the ESEE 5? 5 inch blade, 1095 High Carbon, Kydex sheath, thicker then the ESEE 6 (More durable) has a built in glass breaker ( cause your not always surviving in the woods) and a bow drill divot on the handle.
Love mine!👍🏴
@@johncrouch8988the esee 5 isn’t really a knife. it’s a pry bar with an edge, and it doesn’t hold a great edge at that. it’s way too thick at the edge to be good for actual knife tasks
Okay, Leather does not retain moisture, if you treat it. I use boiled linseed oil to water proof leather knife sheaths. And you can always use something called Snow Seal. As for cutting it or it wearing out. I guess it depends on how you use it. I think Kydex, is usually too bulky and it rattles. Yes, I have had some experience with Kydex and Cold Steel's Secur-Ex. I have since added to my collection a Khukuri with a 12 inch blade, it is the only knife in my collection I would chop and split wood with. Because, that is what it was designed to do. I will soon have a Khukuri with a six inch blade, should be very useful around camp. As for the "Over Molded" tang on some knives. Well, Buck and Kabar both do that with some of thier knives. And they are still great knives.
Gerber LMF 2 infantry is my knife of choice. A lot of my buddies used them overseas while I had nothing lol. I know it's not the best, but it's not the worst either in my opinion. Love ur channel brother, both the old and new stuff 👍🇺🇸
i dont think you should dig with a knife, instead you could sharpen and flat out a stick with the knife and use that to dig
that's a really smart idea.
Exactly... and don't tie your knife to a stick to make a spear. Use your knife to make other tools.
wo0w thx
@First Last
People hunted gigant deer and wooly mamoth with wooden spears. They made a point on a stick and hardened it in the fire. This works, but be carefull not burning the point.
@@Strength-in-Union
You are wellcome.
But make sure to have a backup weapon.
Just in case...
You key point was the sharpening. So many people avoid this issue and let's face it if you are not skilled at sharpening then the 1095 is going to be better to start with than a higher HRC stainless alloy/s.
Good info. My take is yes, get “YOUR perfect knife”, AND equally important (imho) is the marriage to a good quality, multi purposed sheath. A sharpen stick AND a fire stick/bar attached onto the sheath. Us “Joe Average” folks have not the skills to sharpen w/ a river rock etc. , & fire is flat out necessary.
I love my esse 6. Your video review of the knife made me choose it for my first special blade and i couldn't be happier.
eliezer vazquez Glad to hear that!
Esee 6 is a solid choice. Bit pricy for me. I like my Bushman.
Thanks for your presentation of these knives. I'm 70 and still love nature and the outdoors. Too many people take much longer to present half as much info. Could say much more but for now just keep on doing what you do here.
MikeC
You still alive?
Couldn't agree more about serrations. I've carried and used knives every day for literally 40 of my 45 years and have never liked or seen a need for them for the very reasons you articulated. My father and grandfathers never did either.
Man, everybody is different. While I don't like the recurve, that SCHF-9 fits me like a glove & is the most balanced & comfortable big knife I have felt in my hand.
I like my esee 6hm. I agree with what you said. Too many people think edge retention is everything.
I tend to agree with all your recommendations and recently purchased and esee 6. Thanks for an excellent, well thought out video. Years ago, I had an experience with uncoated 1095, leather sheaths and rain, would have given anything for just a kydex sheath, but that was back in the late 70's, not much of that around then. Love the esee 6, great knife! Keep up the great work you're doing!
totally agree with the choice of Esee 6. it's not even about what it has, but everything it doesn't have. it doesn't have a narrow clip point, jimping everywhere, weirdly shaped handle, gimmicky grind, serrations, etc. it's just a well made, simple survival knife than can do it all.
But, but, but.......... Rambo has survived through Washington State, Vietnam, Afghanistan, Burma with his big knife. Hahahahhahaha!
Survival knife, I'm going with my Bark River, Bravo 1.25 in 3V steel, with a DLT kydex sheath. I pretty much use it everyday and the set up works great. Wish more people would review Bark River, they are a great company and have lots of great designs too. Great video and great advice, I always recommend my friends to watch your channel if they are interested in getting non biased knife reviews.
Great Knive but how u Scharping in the Field 😏 Convex and 3v never ever trust me👈
V grind is better.. And littl Dimond stone from Dmt
I watched so many amazing reviews about knives regardless if it's bush craft or survival knives because I love knives. And I think this is the best review I ever watched so far. You covered almost everything of the most important aspects of what a true survival knife should be. You exolained it well enough. And I totally agree with all of your opinion. You're such a very good observant person just like me. Keep it.
Seth Ventura Thank you every much. Thank means a lot.
Nice job! Stainless gets a bum wrap sometimes. Many knife makers say it takes more care and skill to work with but treated properly it can hold an edge and sharpen up easily. I think it's a good low maintenance choice.
I recently rewatched this episode and remembered why your channel is Awesome. Thank you for insights, keep up the great work :))
I'm making my very first knife and this video answered a lot questions I had regarding survival knife design! Great way of explaining the do's and don't s. Many thanks!!!
Thanks some much!
👍
The very-best discussion on the subject matter that has ever been presented.
Love my BK7. That and a folding saw satisfy all my camp tasks and bushcraft needs. I’ll add survival to that list, too. No ax, no buck saw.
Say Heah Aaron, Usually I don't go smaller than a 6" blade. Like my Modde Rodent 6, my A-1 or my new Arvensis 119, But because my Modified Attitude is stout, I can trust it as a Survival Knife also. Job well done as usual. Thanx You. ,, .
i'm just wondering about "survival" in general and i just don't get it how long are you going to survive for before either being rescued/find your way/ die ? any knife with a decent steel will (if sharp enough at the beginning) hold its edge long enough to attain any of these ends, so if i have to survive for a longer time i'm either prepared not really survival(thus a sharpening kit) or i'll have absolutely no kit and no knives at all (evasion & escape, plane crash boat wreck)
maybe i'm shortsighted but i just don't get it
my opinion
some experts are predicting WW3 and/or a civil war and/or a depression...
too bad all of this survival stuff costs so much. that Esee-6 is about $200. I just looked up that affordable $40 knife and some guys are showing pics or videos of it breaking - but that is when they use it to chop. That $30 survival shovel seems a decent way to chop, too. $70 for 2 items or $200 for one? Depends on the person, I guess.
Good video and excellent points! However, I think most blade/handle designs are all personal preference. For people looking for a blade, personally seeing and touching it is the best way to know if it fits your hand and if its comfortable. Thats how I picked my Schf9. That handle was made for me! Even if the knife is expensive or cheap, do your research! Sheath is the last thing I worry about. Upgrading is an option and it can be personalized to my liking. Practice using your knife too!
I like your video and agree with most of what you said. I just got some knives shipped today and can hardly wait to u box them. I got a Mora and a Schrade 52. They should take care of most of the tasks I will need. Being on a low/no budget for about $50.00 I am now a HAPPY CAMPER!
I listened to what you have to say holding onto a Dadley. This was a favorite of Mt men during the height of the fur trade in the Rockies. Guys bought these in large numbers at least in part because they did a great job skinning fur bearers but they still over wintered in the Rockies and these blades could do about anything they needed a knife to do and they so don't meet your list.
If I were going to pay any attention to your list at all I'd go with a BK-10 rather than a BK-2. They are both tough and robust but once a knife has all the metal it needs adding more just makes it heavy. Heavy means you don't have it with you when you need it.
This video came up in my feed today and, of course, I had to watch it again. 😉
I believe the TOPS Tahoma Field Knife is one of the best all around “survival knives”. One of my Tahoma’s is in my Jeep kit, and the other is my backup knife in my main wilderness bag.
But my go-to blades when I’m headed out to the wilds, that I always carry, are the TOPS Armageddon and Brakimo.
Possilbly your best video to date. I use the Fallkniven A1 but I can't argue with any of your opinions.
TheOgieone Thanks for the complement!
Fallkniven A1, S1 and F1 are awsome. Dont know if the convex grind is hard to sharpen in the field? The spines can strike firesteels too and skrape tinder, so thats a pluss. I still would go for the 1095 over the laminated VG-10, because i have chipped my F1 a few times. It does hold an edge better than the 1095, so i guess you have to choose whats important for you. Living in Norway i like the plastic sheats the best. Kydex is not the best in cold klimates, but down to minus 10 degrees celsius its fine. Great video and great comment on the Fallknivens!
This video definitely helped out with what to look for in my survival knife! Thank you again for a great video and review of the knives. I ultimately ended up with the Schrade SCHF52, it included a nylon sheath, and plastic insert and also a ferro rod and striker as well as a sharpening stone with a pocket on the sheath to store the items! thumbs up!
I have a BK2, I just removed the nylon belt loop and attached a techlock and I'm still trying out different ways to carry it. I'm not so sure wearing anything scout style in the middle of your back is such a great idea. If you end up falling backwards it seems like that would really mess up your back.
jstorer1980 I carry mine on the straps of the pack I'm carrying usually the maxpedition jumbo or my usmc molle 2 only good way I could figure to carry my bk2
jstorer1980 with the tecloc lol removed the nylon from mine 2
Some people knock the ESEE 6's plastic sheath, but it will cover more environmental situations than the Kydex. Here in AZ if you leave Kydex in your vehicle on a hot summer day, the Kydex will will dis-form and the sheath will become loose and open up making the fit loose. Kydex can also become more brittle in the Cold. Now the thickness of the Kydex used makes a huge difference in this regard so if you run a Kydex sheath I would use a minimum thickness of 0.093" or else there will more issues.
I just do camping, but I want to buy a very good knife, I have seen many videos of different kind of knife, but this one that you have made have a very good information, Thank for all details you have narrated and described for what to look in a survival knife.
I have to agree with the Esee 6. I was in a survival situation while camping in the Chiricahua Mountains here in Arizona and I was carrying another knife that definitely was not a survival knife. Everything turned out ok, but, I now carry my Esee 6 with me when ever I am in the wilderness. In fact part of the reason I bought an Esee 6 was your review. Great Knife!
awesome video! You put all factors of survival knives into perspective, gave specific examples, covered all facets including weight, thickness, and more importantly the type of metal. Amazing details and execution considerations. I think the ESEE 6 is my next purchase
Toby Cumbee Thank you very much and you will not be sorry.
Great video Aaron! That location at the start of the video... Amazing...
Well done Aaron. Excellent execution and perfectly presented. 2 thumbs up!
Can you do a video about your preferences for a smaller companion knife? Like an MSK 2.5, bk14, izula, and anything else.
Great video brother! I scrolled through the comments and it's really disheartening how many negative people inhabit this planet! Keep up the good work and to hell with the negativity!👊🏼
Great vids. Really appreciate all the clear concise video without unintelligible jargon. As a n00b to outdoor cutlery this and your other videos have been very helpful. Subbed.
Precious Roy Thanks and welcome to the GT family.
Great job! Very informative, you impart a lot of knowledge in an easy to understand communications style. Your passion comes through and holds interest. I have watched a lot of videos on this subject. This is one of the best.
I like the ESEE 4 best because of size and weight. I have a pouch on mine for survival gear.
I had a 5....I bought a 4 for My Nephew which I absolutely know would be a better survival knife. I have been using knives for 45 years... I find myself doing far more tasks with a 3- 4 inch blade....
Great video, Aaron! Thanks for doing this ... lots of good stuff to consider. (But you made my BK16 a little sad ... it came in a little short to qualify).
Enjoyed your video very much.... a very well informed tutorial on Survival Knives, the important thing to remember is the Survival Knife has to perform various tasks good not great. The "Unknowns" of a real world survival situation demand as much preparation and informed information as possible when choosing your knife. The point must be made that the BK2 Gen2 one of the knives featured in this video is not a full tang knife.....remove the scales and you will find it has a hollow tang. My personal belief that the "Unknowns" that may present itself in a real world survival situation demand a full tang solid steel knife, failure of your Survival Knife may have life changing consequences. I do own and have used the Gen2 BK2, SCHF9, SCHF36 and Esee5. My personal criteria of a bet your life on Survival Knife is,1/4 thick drop point blade ,full solid steel tang, good ergonomics and construction (1095 steel). Therefore the Esee5 not mentioned in this video meets my personal criteria and is the knife of my choice when or if that day ever comes. Thanks again for the video Gideonstactical!
David Waters Thanks for the comment and insight.
Hey here is one "survival" knife seldom reviewed but I reckon it's great, The Italian company, Extrema Ratio's Ontos, just had it EDC basically for one whole month in the jungle/bush LOL.
I'm now carrying the Esee Junglas II for my survival knife. I find the few extra oz and still under 20 oz. Make it better at chopping and isn't way too long.
Probably the best and most informative video on survival knives I've ever watched thank you
One of your best vids! Yes, I realize it is over 4 years old now, but I just found it. So I agree that the Esee 6 is a great one, but my personal criteria includes a sub-$100 price point...actually well "sub" haha! You can't hit all the criteria at that price-point, but you can come close with the Schrade 52, and it is only 37 bucks. Its got the ballistic nylon sheath, although a good one, and it is a sabre hollow ground blade. Being this is 1/4" thick stock I don't mind a slight hollow grind. There are advantages in cutting tasks with this style blade too. Anyway, great vid!
7:59 as a Tanto blade fanatic, I can confirm this,lol I ruined many blade profiles by not knowing how to sharpen where the two edges meet lol
Hey Aaron,
Great video brother! I happen to own both the ESEE 6 and the BK2 and I also happen to find both of them to be my preferred go to knives as well. But I did want to mention a couple of things I have _personally_ found to be of interest.
Although they are both great knives, I do happen to personally find the BK2 handle to be more comfortable and conform to the hand better than the ESEE 6's rather *blocky* handle. I really wish ESEE would make the handles more *round* in cross-section to help with comfort.
The blades themselves however, are a different story. I do prefer the thickness of the ESEE 6 blade over the BK2 simply because the BK2's extremely thick blade can make doing food prep or fine carving rather difficult due to the *very obtuse* saber grind. Whereas the ESEE 6's slimmer, full flat ground blade is more conducive to a wider array of tasks.
But at the end of the day, the *only* thing that makes me sometimes go for the BK2 over the ESEE 6 is the handle! The BK2 is just more comfortable _in my opinion_. But I love ESEE's no questions asked warranty policy on their knives! So you can really go into the woods and not worry about your knife! It's really a *big comfort!* Likewise, even thought Kabar doesn't have the warranty policy that ESEE does, I think you would be *VERY* hard pressed to *EVER* break a BK2... Matter of fact, I think I remember reading somewhere that Kabar stated that they have only ever had a *handful* of BK2's _ever_ come back to their factory!
As for the sheaths, the BK2 *does* come with 2 optional sheaths from the factory. The original molded plastic drop sheath being more along the lines of what you were recommending. Now, I know that Ka-bar had problems with this sheath dulling the knives a while back, but I believe that issue has since been resolved. I also happen to have the ballistic nylon sheath for the BK2 and don't believe that this would really be much, if _any_, more of a burden than kydex or molded plastic personally. You are right, the ballistic nylon sheaths can rattle, but it's never bothered me nor do I find a reason that I would need to be *that* quiet LOL! If there is any rattle, it certainly is not obnoxious enough to where it would actually begin to bother me or get on my nerves. Also, one advantage that the ballistic nylon sheaths have over kydex, is that they usually have a nice little pouch on the front for a ferro rod and/or sharpener which is nice! If your kydex sheath has attachment points, I'm sure you can add on a pouch similar to how you can purchase the molle back and pouch for the ESEE 6 sheath, but once again, that goes against what your shooting for in this video. Your looking for the *most* you can get *stock* from the factory without any *modifications* or *add-ons* and it's for this reason I think the ballistic nylon's pouch is a nice touch!
I think if I had the option to get any style sheath straight from the factory than yes, I would definitely go for Kydex first, then probably molded plastic, then ballistic nylon with the kydex insert. I believe any one of these options are pretty resilient and pretty impervious to weather and moisture. The ballistic nylon may get damp, but will quickly dry out, whereas leather will hold moisture _and rot_ as you mentioned in this video.
In conclusion, the point I'm getting at is that handle comfort in my opinion is *as important*, if not *more important* than the knife itself! Because you could have the most well made knife in the world, but if it's uncomfortable to hold and use for extended periods, you're eventually going to stop using it... It's in this area that I think ESEE could be paying a little bit more attention... If only they could make the sides of their handles more rounded and less *flat & blocky*, their knives would be _almost_ perfect! I say _almost_ perfect because I'm still not a fan of blade coatings. They don't allow for ferro rod usage, and they look like crap once the coating starts getting worn off... The textured coatings are also generally *rough* and make it much harder to push cut due to the increased friction and drag created by the rough coating. I would rather a polished blade and deal with keeping it oiled and/or force a patina.
Great job Aaron! You did a wonderful job touching upon all very valid points to be concerned with when looking for a good survival knife! I love these videos! =) Keep at it brother!
PS- TurtleWolf Pack is right about a few things too. American Tanto blades are not hard to resharpen. As he said, they are merely treated as two separate straight blades - easy!
Recurved blades however are a pain in the ass! The Schrade SCHF9 in this video is a recurve pattern, however nothing was mentioned about it's blade shape. The steeper the recurve, the narrower the sharpening stone has to be to get into the recurved belly properly! Most of the time however, you just have to resort to using a sharpening rod of some type. The problem with sharpening rods is that they not only don't allow you to really effectively sharpen the tip of your knife, but also will easily round off and blunt the tip of your knife if your not careful! You really _should_ use a flat stone if you want to keep a well defined, sharp tip on your knife.
Personally, I would much rather carry a Tanto blade into the woods rather than a recurve blade. I would just make sure that the Tanto *did not* have a swedge. But in general, I agree with you in that I just prefer a simple standard blade shape.
***** Right on, thank you for the comment and points you made. I appreciate hearing from your experience.
gideonstactical just edited the post and added to it FYI =)
Excellent video! Thanks for defining a survival knife and what characteristics to look for. This is a big help.
OryGun Patriot Glad I could help you out!
Totally agree with you/ Esee 6 for sure. However I also love my Esee 5/ it's a beast as well.
Great videos you put out. I'm a big fan.
Keep doing them.
Stay safe.
British Army MOD knife. Great video dude!
Very helpful video.For about 2 years I've been looking for a survival knife for my BOB,and the ESSE 6 is what I have been looking to buy.Now I know that is the knife to buythanks to your video.
305ssmonte Glad I could help.
Excellent info. What about some budget blade choices say for knives in the sub $50-$60 range?
TheGoatMumbler The two in the video SCHRADE schf9 or schf37.
Im still happy you recommended the esee 6 a while back to me... it is even better than i expected for me with my big hands... i recently bought the molle back for it for more carry versatility and the button snap is a good secure feeling when carrying her inverted... one of my most loved blades!... greets...
I find that the upper limit for a 'knife' is around 7 inch blade, bigger than that is moving into a chopping tool. I like ESSE knives but they pricey, I can buy the near equivalent Ontario RAT 7, sheath is OK for me.
I've been doing this kind of stuff since 1969, and I have to say, you have impressed me. I have to agree with Literally Melvin, though, digging with a blade is a no-no. You blade is a valuable resource, conserve it at all costs.
I'm okay with my elmax 5150 field knife. Great all around blade. I make sure I have a stone to keep it sharp in the bug out bag. The idea is to get good at keeping it sharp before shtf.
I carry multiple blades a terrasaur a rat 7 and an off grid tracker x I just recently bought a skrama
Knife definitions:
Survival knife: A knife you have on you when the need unexpectedly arrives.
Bushcraft Knife: A “camp knife” suitable for camp chores such as building a shelter, making a feather stick, fixing a meal or light chopping of firewood.
Tactical knife: A knife capable of use as a weapon to defend yourself in case of attack of either animal or human.
Pocket knife: A knife you would normally carry in your pocket in a casual way every day. (This knife sometimes becomes your survival knife.)
The ideal survival knife is hardly the one you're going to have on you when the need arrives. If you're out hiking and happen to get lost and you have your “stuff” with you then you're in luck. You have the perfect situation just like it was planned, but it's usually not that way in the real world.
I totally agree that unless your like Chris from preparedmind101. That is going to modify every piece of gear he gets to make it perfect for you, the ESEE 6 is as close to perfect out the box as you can expect out of a 120$ knife. I just wish it had a 90 degree spine for striking fire steels and bark scraping. Great video Aaron! Keep them coming
utubecronie Thanks so much!
I thought the Esee 6 had a 90 angle on the top of the blade? Yes or no?
For example 4116 stainless is fine material also. Takes a lot of abuse, does not rust and can be sharpened outside. Like on CS Leatherneck.
I have 3 survival knives. If I go into our city and travel underground subways etc I bring a Gerber LMF II cause in a disaster I want non full tang insulated with serrations to cut various materials.
If I travel towards the country I bring a Ka-Bar Crewman. After a disaster when people are scrounging for food I would carry my Ka-Bar USMC for fighting rather than chopping up wood along with my large tanto serrated TDI for backup. Ok 4.
i finally bought a ESEE 6 !! Thanks for your nice videos and advise again.
Badagry 76 Sweet! Glad you like it.
I cary edc folding blades all the time. My favorite is the full size Griptilian. Not that I found that I am getting into and doing research on fixed knife fir vehicle bag. I live in Nor Cal, very rural city environment. for that reason not looking for a large huge blade. I love the BK22 & LMF2. I feel they are great but tank like blades. I'm now pretty much looking at Esee RC 4/5. Thanks for the videos love the channel.
i packed a 440c for years not once did fail me tell drug addic stole it it was so good ill be going back to one soon ive looked at lot new knife thay can get close to my old 440c
I prefer the finger grooves but not the hump on top I used my thumb to press and navigate or balance.
A small sharp blade is better for most bushcraft tasks. Its good to add a 7 dollar Mora to your kit for those tasks. And something tiny in your first aid kit.
Excellent video, thank you. I am going to say the following from the standpoint of someone who has little first hand experience, so bear with me please. I don't mind to be proven wrong:
When it comes to steel, 1095 is pretty much the golden standard of outdoor and survival knives and indeed - it appears to be about the most used knives in said knives also in higher price categories. But I have one point that makes me wonder: the toughness. 1095 is - whatever way you look at it - not a particularly tough steel. Even at hardness of say 58 HRC, it offers around 10 ft-lbs of toughness. In comparison, 80CrV2 is at 30+, 5160 at 45+, 51200 at 30+.
When it comes to simple (and fairly easy to sharpen) stainless steels - even AEB-L is at 40+ and 12C27 at 25 and I am not even mentioning steels that have higher carbide content and thus also better edge retention (like 3V or Cruwear), as I fully follow and agree with your point that the steel should be easy to sharpen in the field (though I would still think that carrying a 1x4" sharpening stone like for example Spyderco double stuff or some small 400 grit diamond plate would go a long way with little weight penalty). 1095 in fact has toughness very comparable to S35VN, CPM-154, Elmax, Vanax or XHP. Again, nothing wrong with 1095, but when it comes to toughness it would not - to me - look like a first choice of a simple steel for a survival knife.
Am I missing something obvious in the above? Just curios, nothing more. Thanks again for the great video.
P.S. All the values I have mentioned are of course from Larrin's excellent article "Testing edge retention of 48 knife steels"
I know I’m kinda late, but this is a great video, lots of good info. Thanks.
Only problem with having a knife set only for survival is unless you carry it everytime you leave the house you're more than likely not gonna have it when it's needed
Couldn’t agree more. Love my 6
ok aron and thanks for your advise. i like too the boker vox rold. i'll not choose the esee 6 because too expensive for me ; i'm french and in France this knife is at 190 eu !!! it will complete my small fixed blade made in corsica (french island in the South of France). i'll show you pics of this knife craft handing... thanks again and let's keep in touch please. thanks again.
I agree with you on the esee 6 only cause of the sheath and micarta but the better knife if you upgrade is the bk7
Great description; however, I feel that 90 degree spine as described by Mr. Canterbury is a very important feature that must be included. Of course, your best knife, the ESEE man lol... Gracias
By far the best video I've seen on that topic so far. Really appreciate your effort. Thanks for sharing!
Best regards from Munich,
Stefan
OutdoorFamilyAdventure Glad I could help!
Great video. As always really appreciate your thoughts on the subject.
Say Heah Aaron, Yup, I like to carry a small/large Knives. It just depends how you carry them. Last weekend I used a older combo that I have for a while now. I took my O. K. C. Ranger Afghan and my Ranger RD-9 I also used my BK-14 as my neck knife. Oh, and I brought my WoW Folding Saw. I sharpened my Rangers on my Work Sharp and all three blades are very sharp. Old reliables is what I call them. I beat on them and I have no worries using them hard. Oh, don't get me wrong, there's a difference using them hard and abusing them. I treat them with care when I'm not using them. I clean and keep them oiled. But also those O. K. C. Boxy Handles need to be filed or sanded down to fit your hand. Yeah, the Rangers were designed by a Army Ranger so he had survival in mind when they were designed. The Ranger Afghan I used as my fine task knife e. I. feathersticking, twist splitting kindling and sling off Bark of sticks. The Ranger RD-9 is more like my Survival Knife that I can baton chop with. L@@King at the edge my Afghan has a continuous curve actually similar to a Mora believe it or not. The RD-9 has a straight edge which will form wood similar to a Carpenter Hatchet. But at a 1/4 and not too wide so there's not alot of wood drag it splits real good. I wanted to buy another set just like it incase they grew legs and walked away. But just the Afghan I seen sold for $300.00 yeah, go figure. Anyhow, that's why I carry both knives. I do that with most of my knives. As usual another good review, Keep up the good work.,,. p
I really appreciated all your knowledge and insight. I watched your review of the Tops Silent Hero and will be ordering it next week. I live in the high desert of eastern Oregon and would rather have the quiet of the leather over the kydex. Great information in a clear concise and unbiased review, thank you.
Good job my friend very to the point ,not prejudice at all matter of fact you go way out of your way to be fair. Thank you for all you do. Bill Finetti California
bill Finetti Thanks alot!
My sch 38 almost covers all of your criteria. even though its classed as a bushcraft knife.
The 38 has a much stronger tip than the 36 and 37.
It came with a really bad nylon sheath but I enjoy making kydex sheaths and doing mods to my knives. I cant do anything about the hollow grind though.
What pisses me off about every video I see on survival knives or just knives in general is, people keep saying that bushcraft knives are different than survival knives. It's like everyone makes it seem like your planing before hand to go out and have that kind of situation, or I guess we all need to carry both kinds of knives with us you know just in case. You as a woods man need to pick a knife that can do many tasks well so you don't get fucked the day you really have a problem, and the I'm never going to have anything happen to me is foolish, just ask that dude that had to cut off his arm. Shit happens no matter how much you think you know.
I have watched more reviews than most. I have more knives than most. I am 64 and can say I like your vids as well as ANY I HAVE SEEN. I am into canoe and kayaking and keep a deck bag loaded with stuff I take in motor boat as well as paddling. Not so much if in a pack. Well in this I have a BK2. Will have in back pack also if doing that. On belt I have for years carried a BK7 or ESEE 6 untill last year or so I seem to have gone down in size. BK16 .Benchmade 162. Laser Strike,Mora Bushcraft, I find better for belt carry. I also have a multi tool and ESEE 3 on me most always. I seem to like a Tomahawk and smaller knife of late. I carry a chest holster with handgun as not good arounf waist if in kayak.
Anyway I do like and respect your vids. I hope u keep it going.
but my long time question.. how u can protect the knife against rust in the wilderness? some oily plants, fat or something??
You really should check out the Ritter-Becker RSK MK2. It's more or less an esee 6 with on choil (and a thumb ramp) with the Becker handle. It's even a Rowen made blade! It's a gooder
I know this is an old video, but this is my first time watching it.
Another thing to consider when choosing blade steel is the environment you live in. As someone who lives in the coastal South, I've found 420HC to be my steel of choice for most of my knives, survival or otherwise. 1095 is a great steel, but during the hurricane season (F-you, Irma), it's a PITA to keep rust off of it due to the constant rains and humidity. 420HC will hold up to blatant abuse better than the super stainless', but won't rust up as quick as the full carbons.
AWESOME video Aaron! and great topic, I fully agree with your conclusion!
Keep up the top work
I want to get a good knife I'm torn between the tops Bob and the tops tex Creek XL what do u think. i carry a folder, wingman, tops something we will see and a good little ax in the woods
I bought the ESEE 6 because of this video and let me say Aaron, you are 100,000 percent correct! I love this knife and I'll be taking a 7 day trip soon into the mountains to camp and this blade is going with me..it's my favorite knife and you are my favorite knife reviewer hands down, keep up the good work bud!
rtodd84 Thank you so much! I really appreciate it!
Hi again Aaron! Man, that was a truly awesome & entertaining video...& you didn't even do any field tests bc they have already been done by you. I love my ESEE 6 & you are the one that recommended it to me! "HANDS DOWN" LOL. Thanks.
That was excellent. I took notes and I'm still looking for that perfect, and actual, 'wilderness survival knife'. The one's recommended are certainly up there for contenders but I'm still researching. Thank you for the views and examples.
If a survival situation happens, I would carry two knives with me. One is Cold Steel Tanto 3V TL and one is Cold Steel Pendleton mini AUS 10A.
I agree that plastic/kydex sheaths are better, however, I have found that leather and nylon sheaths are much more quiet than kydex or plastic. Just my experience.
I'd still consider the Ontario Spec Plus line survival knives. Haven't had any problems with mine.
I choose the Gerber prodigy. Was that a descent choice or should I go get something else ? And hello from Kentucky land between the lakes and God bless. 🇺🇸 🇬🇧 🇨🇦
My Esee 6 wasn't 3/16 thick, just between 3/16-1/8 of an inch.
Bushcraft or survival knife are the same concept. So lets say you go bushcrafting for a weekend and you have your bushcraft knife on you. Now shtf and you need to get back in a hurry. What changed? You go back home and get your survival knife? Than go back to where you were located and 'survive'? Suddenly you need to cut down trees? Break open car doors? Or are the tasks you are doing with your knife the same as when bushcrafting?
Hi...am sorry, what Schrade you had there, in the point explanation? did you made a video about it?
Hi Aaron, an excellent review, I agree with you on alot of points, but in my experience, no mater how much I use just one knife, and try to use it as a one knife carry, I find theres certain areas that the knife will falls short at, in my opinion, I consider myself as a 3knife carry, a slicer usually a 3/ 1/2"-4", that I will neck carry, or attached to the front straps on my backpack, my on person carry knife, will be a 5"+-6"+ (up to my Rodent 7 size, I've been using in a one knife carry), just incase I'm seperated from my pack, a chopper 8"+-12"+, is always attached with my molle straps on the back of my pack, just to identify what knives they are, my slicer's could be the my Skookum, John Bradley "Worlds Finest Camp Knife", or my BK-14, or my Mini Scandi by Tops, or my Rodent Solution, Bushcrafter # 162, etc., my Field/Camp/ Survival Knife, could be my BK-2, or my O.K.C. Ranger Afghan, my favorites the Ratmandu, Rodent 6 without the top gaurd, it looks like a beefy Ratmandu on steriods, or my Rodent 7, they don't have simple handles, I call them the lightning bolt shape, but it is a very comfortable handle, same with that Schrade, I call that handle a seahorse shape, again a very comfortable shape, Swamp Rat Chopweiler have that shape too, my choppers could be the O.K.C. SP -53 (a beast, literally a sharp hammer), SP-51, my favorite the Rodent 9, BK-9, BK-4, or one of my Khukuris etc., even my C.S. Kukuri Plus in 0-1, I'm always trying to reduce my knife carry, but always fall short in certain areas, if I don't consider a saw, and axe as a knife carry, three knives shine, my Ratmandu, or the Rodent 6, or the Rodent 7, plus the saw, and axe, the more I try to keep it simple, the more complicated it becomes, great food for thought, like I said before, I really enjoy your videos, keep up the good work, I do understand your point, you did a great job on what a survival knife should be, and you made that point clear, and I totally agree with you, but I find, I need multiple carry, using your criteria on each knife I carry, because, just one knife, it will fall short in certain areas, again, Thanx alot, good job.
paulie 4x Thanks so much for the comment and compliment. I don't disagree with you and I rarely carry only one fixed blade. I wanted to give a general idea of what to look for in a survival knife. It is my number one question I get from people, is what's a good survival/bushcraft knife. Thank again and I like hearing your point of view!
where is the esee 5?