I use birch cradle boards, the surfaces of which are hardwood, and I've sealed with glue but have never done the sanding/scoring part. I think I will from now on! Thank you, Helen.
Good question! I don't because I tend to paint the back and I am not sure whether or not the sealant would stop the paint sticking properly. I think it probably would, because the PVA is essentially adding a sealing layer between the mosaic and the board. But maybe I am being over cautious! 😀
I'm mosaicing an old dining table. I'm thinking instead of drawing on a grid to be able to follow my pattern that I would print on the thinnest paper possible and then thinned down pva to glue the paper to the table so that there is now a grid on the table before I start adding the pattern. I will score the pattern before I start tiling. Will this work?
It does sound like it might work but I couldn't guarantee it. And what's the disadvantage of drawing on a grid? If you did, then you would be sure it would work! I am concerned that the paper, even super thin paper, would absorb the water in the grout/glue and so you would have a potentially wet layer beneath the mosaic and on top of the wood so it would warp over time.
OOOOKAY,,, now I'm cooking with gas... this is exactly my question and exactly the wood that my bakery counter is made of! wow! mine is all natural layered- you will get a splinter unless you sand it- wood. Cant wait to watch this because I just saw somewhere the wood will expand over time and we are going to jewel this thing out completely, the parts facing the customers and just stain the rest of it to a lovely medium brown shade, so we don't want this to slowly become a fallen apart disaster. this is great thanks for the toot!
You're so welcome Park! I wouldn't recommend using wood for outdoor surfaces or surfaces that are going to get heavily wet but otherwise it's a good strong base for indoor mosaics. Good luck with your project.
To be honest, I’m not sure but I suspect not. PVA is an acrylic based compound so it acts as a seal when applied to the wood. And by mixing it with water, it helps the wood absorb it. I don’t think the wood glue would sink in because it is designed not to.
I am creating my mixed media music atop an antique oak makeup vanity. I'm planning on mosaicing rite on top of the oak wood surface post-sealant. Would you recommend this route?
Hi Helen - so glad you are making these videos, I enjoy your blog very much! Can you please help me with a question on how to mosaic on wood that is finished and glossed already. For example, a wooden tray that has a semi-gloss finish. Would I need to sand it and add the PVA glue mixture to it before tiling?
I seal the front because the front it going to be grouted and the grout contains water. If you are planning to put the mosaic outside then it is a good idea to use boat paint (at least two coats) on the sides and back to protect the wood against water ingress.
Because sanding will roughen up more or less all of the surface whereas the knife will miss bits. So in theory you can skip the scoring part of the process if you've done a good job sanding but I think it's always better to have a belt and braces approach!
You always explain things so clearly. Thanks so much, Helen!
Seems a very nice lady and explains very well, just like a school teacher from my past. 👍
I use birch cradle boards, the surfaces of which are hardwood, and I've sealed with glue but have never done the sanding/scoring part. I think I will from now on! Thank you, Helen.
You're very welcome Tracy! 😀
Thanks so much for the clear and concise directions.
Thank you, Helen for the tip
You’re welcome 😊
Splendid! Just what I was looking for! Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful Daniela!
Hi Helen, could you seal the back as well with the pva glue? Whether it’s under the paint or over? Just to prevent warping later on?
Good question! I don't because I tend to paint the back and I am not sure whether or not the sealant would stop the paint sticking properly. I think it probably would, because the PVA is essentially adding a sealing layer between the mosaic and the board. But maybe I am being over cautious! 😀
Thank you so much. You always teach me new things about mosaic, and it helps me a lot
Happy to hear that!
So nice to see the entire process. ❤
Glad it's helpful! 😀
so glad I came across your tutorial
I'm mosaicing an old dining table. I'm thinking instead of drawing on a grid to be able to follow my pattern that I would print on the thinnest paper possible and then thinned down pva to glue the paper to the table so that there is now a grid on the table before I start adding the pattern. I will score the pattern before I start tiling. Will this work?
It does sound like it might work but I couldn't guarantee it. And what's the disadvantage of drawing on a grid? If you did, then you would be sure it would work! I am concerned that the paper, even super thin paper, would absorb the water in the grout/glue and so you would have a potentially wet layer beneath the mosaic and on top of the wood so it would warp over time.
Thank you 😊
You're welcome 😊
OOOOKAY,,, now I'm cooking with gas... this is exactly my question and exactly the wood that my bakery counter is made of! wow! mine is all natural layered- you will get a splinter unless you sand it- wood. Cant wait to watch this because I just saw somewhere the wood will expand over time and we are going to jewel this thing out completely, the parts facing the customers and just stain the rest of it to a lovely medium brown shade, so we don't want this to slowly become a fallen apart disaster. this is great thanks for the toot!
You're so welcome Park! I wouldn't recommend using wood for outdoor surfaces or surfaces that are going to get heavily wet but otherwise it's a good strong base for indoor mosaics. Good luck with your project.
Would mod podge be an acceptable material to use as a substitute for pva?
I have never used Mod Podge but I have just looked it up and it seems to be that it would work fine as a substitute for PVA
Hi Helen! Thanks for sharing this tip. If you’re using the tile adhesive/thinset with wood, do you still prep in this manner?
Yes, wood should always be prepped because it's an absorbent material.
Would wood glue work instead of PVA?
To be honest, I’m not sure but I suspect not. PVA is an acrylic based compound so it acts as a seal when applied to the wood. And by mixing it with water, it helps the wood absorb it. I don’t think the wood glue would sink in because it is designed not to.
@ thank you ma’am
This video is a Godsent for me 🙏🙏🙏
I'm so glad! :)
Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you again thousands of times
I am creating my mixed media music atop an antique oak makeup vanity. I'm planning on mosaicing rite on top of the oak wood surface post-sealant. Would you recommend this route?
Yes, that should be fine. I would also sand the wood and remove any varnish.
what is the purpose of applying the glue and letting it dry? is that just to seal the wood?
Yes, it's just to seal the wood
Hi Helen - so glad you are making these videos, I enjoy your blog very much! Can you please help me with a question on how to mosaic on wood that is finished and glossed already. For example, a wooden tray that has a semi-gloss finish. Would I need to sand it and add the PVA glue mixture to it before tiling?
I am so sorry but I have only just seen this message. The answer is, yes, would would need to sand it down first and seal it.
Is there any benefit to adding mesh to the surface of the wood? If so, how would you glue it down?
No, there wouldn't be any benefit that I am aware of.
@@HelenMilesMosaics ok. Thank you for answering!
What do you do if wood us already painted?
Sand it down and then seal as normal
Is mdf also needed to prepare first?
Absolutely! It's even more important with softer substrates like MDF
Hi! Why would you only seal the front and not the back and sides as well?
I seal the front because the front it going to be grouted and the grout contains water. If you are planning to put the mosaic outside then it is a good idea to use boat paint (at least two coats) on the sides and back to protect the wood against water ingress.
My question is…why sand the wood when you need to rough it up with a knife? Great video!
Because sanding will roughen up more or less all of the surface whereas the knife will miss bits. So in theory you can skip the scoring part of the process if you've done a good job sanding but I think it's always better to have a belt and braces approach!