Tyson always does a great job at explaining what he is doing, I program PLC controls & even I can easily follow along & learn. It's not that I am entering the craft but for me, it's amazing to see a chunk of metal become a work of art (working part for whatever is needed).
Great video! The only thing is he left out was one major check/step: When flipping your part for 2nd op, your "soft" jaws should be cut fresh(and a specific way) to clamp onto the turned suface so that your part runs true and your O.D. to O.D. concentricity is good. You would put a test or drop indicator on the cut surface that you're clamped onto and give it a spin to make sure you don't have runout. Fresh cut jaws cut at the diameter of what you're clamping onto(whilst being chucked onto something, if possible) is the best way to ensure a part running true. Not all of us get the best machines and the best & brand new chucks on them.(sarcastic joke). Great video other than that! *thumbs up emoji*
I love reading comments by people that know what they’re doing. I just left a shop where I ran a 39”x255” Oil field lathe. A ToolMex TUR930. I had to put a 2” wide burnished strip on both ends of the pump shafts I made. The tolerance was -.000375” TIR, but the circles were on average 150”-250” apart…. Failed 1 out of the 87 I did. Best I ever got was .00016”…..Absolutely crazy but not when you have multiple steady rests and you develop a methodology based on the scientific method. It’s amazing what we are capable of.
Just out of curiosity what grade stainless are you running because 17-4 ph is a heat treatable stainless steel and cuts almost like inconel. It is nothing like 316.
@@wendull811 y’all should be able to dial in 15-5 / 17-4. It’s not like aluminum lol, but it cuts well as far as stainless goes, and in my experience I prefer it over 316 because its harder and chips better. Don’t let it get in your head, go get some carbide inserts, read up, and experiment with it. It is a very useful steel.
Just wondering for that funky angle why you did go in with a radius groove tool and make the angles with it. Something like an Iscar CGHN-D 26-3D with a GIPY 3.00-1.50 insert.
Hi could you explain why at 3:28 there doesn't appear to be an undercut for grinding relief but at 3:39 there is. Plus I think you missed a trick , you could have run a finish cut along the hex peaks to de-burr as your tool would have been at that location at some point , just saying.
@Engineering guy until he's been on that machine for a while longer those things won't come naturally to a lathe based guy, sort of thing 5 axis Miller guys see without thinking, save a sharp edge and doesn't take very long to sort. Also if the drawings don't call for it.. and it's not on the model because modeled fillets and chamfered edges can be a pain sometimes. Good video though and aiming at the right level for the viewers, choosing to put a chamfer on an edge, or undercut that the designer forgot about isn't a learning level decision 🤔😉.
Pretty simple part. You chould have made the undercut from first side by changeing b-axis in degress until the insert can fit in. I work on a dmg-ctx1250 . Allso roughing down the part on second side with a mill whould save you some time. Just my thoughts.
Was the angle more than the 60 on first side? Looked like it would clear. Maybe a chuck clearance issue. But yea having a B axis is nice. Integrex here.
@@mynicki444 if the insert can be in the undercut on second side , it can get in there on first side , its just a matter of what angle your b axis is in , or else just use another neutral turning tool with no angle if its a matter of clearence to the chuck
When I'm taking that amount of stock off I like to use a 15 degree SNMG 1.2mm rad. I havent seen you guys bother so now idk maybe it's a bit old school lol. A beautiful part you have made though ❤️
I get hung up on this all the time. For the rough turn operation the SFM is 250, The RPM says N/A. Don't you need to have a G50 to set a Max RPM ? What Sets your RPM on the roughing operation ?
If I'm not mistaken, you'd still need a G50 to set the maximum RPM. Then, you'd just use a G96 to set your surface speed. That way, you keep the constant 250 SFM, but won't exceed whatever RPM you set with the G50.
Usually I set the G50 to 3000 or so RPM in general, but if I have a job with a big or long part I'll give it a few test spins at different high RPMS and listen to how the machine sounds and set it based on that. For this one with the tail center, I left it at 2000 max on the front and 3000 on the back knowing with my SFM it wouldn't reach that fast unless it went to center.
[06/29/22] Beautiful work. Imagine having to make 100+ of these parts?? What was the clear coolant that was used? Does the SMX have multiple coolant reservoirs, or do you have to change it out manually?
Titan, I dropped by your shop this morning. Awesome place. Didnt see you there, but I left my card with one of your people. Im in government contracting. I would love to meet and talk sometime.
Honestly to set up not to bad as long as the guy that programed it did a beautiful simple setup sheet and the tooling is tip top 👌 (I know all the guys at this place would). I really love these lathe vids so clear and concise
Grooving cycle before live tooling with a button insert. More rigidity at the chuck end for this op. Grinding would not be necessary if you adjust the geometry in Mastercam to offset taper in the part. This is unless you need an absolute mirror finish.
Ya I had that though about the groove too, then I would've also parted it down most of the way so all you had to do on the second op was 1 rough and 1 finish pass and then the center. I also agree unless there's some bizarre tolerance on a part like that it should have been easy to finish it on the lathe. We do stuff that size to better than .0005" all the time.
Not sure why you didn't do the undercut with a regular VNMG after milling. Have to see the drawing maybe you didn't have enough material to hold onto in the chuck or something?
5:15, how do you compensate for the fact the you are using the front and the back of the tip, cutter comp wont work unless you use both cutter comps in the same line, hmm?
Here in Germany we drill the hole 1. before we turn the surface. In the center is no speed ... And why do U want to turn to a mirror surface in the spot what`s to be grindet later ? Did I miss something there ?
Ha the center hole! Edge Precision show a way to always mill the center hole with a end mill with your B axis. He is write a mill center hole is alone better then a center drill.
Can more talk about grinding, speeds and feed with many diameter and rpm for details, rpm for grinding weel, and couple advice about feed on different materials. sory for my bad English.
might have an issue with the precision of the position of the all the features given that you are now locating off a drilled chamfer hole that you only machined right at the end.
Where I work we make mostly everything out of 17-4 for surgical/orthopedic parts. 17-4 is a tool steel that leaves a really nice finish and isn't too hard to machine.
Micrometer off the turned face of the hex, plus any grinding allowance if it was on there. That's your known size. Otherwise, without any similar features you will have to take a skim off the face and remove it and measure and then re set in the jaws and measure off the face with tool or probe if you have one. Never ever off the pre machined face of the Jaws you just put in, you're never able to judge how much they might move when the pressure comes up, can do for first side though as it doesn't matter as much.
I guess I missed something, because I really wanna know what on this "Incredibly Complicated 17-4 Stainless Steel Part" is Incredibly Complicated? And what is the thing that "Only 1% of Machinists Know" about? Well, my last lathe job is over 25 years ago and I'm only into milling now, so I might be a little bit rusty to see the "complicated" and "unusual tricky" part here. Nevertheless good tutorial video.
I'm sure the worst part of sharing the process used to manufacture this part is all the second-guessing and criticism .. was a machinist in a job shop for 35 years, one thing I learned is everyone has a their own way of making a part. And if the part is a good one when completed, then the machinist obviously knows what he is doing.
I would rough face by turning rather than conventional facing if youre worried about backend wobble. Turning offers mainly Z forces that way and you dont have to nibble at it.
Can’t tell y’all how many videos for how long when y’all called out “tenths” I was thinking 0.1 and not ten thousandths lol. If you couldn’t tell I’m not a machinist 😅
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Tyson always does a great job at explaining what he is doing, I program PLC controls & even I can easily follow along & learn.
It's not that I am entering the craft but for me, it's amazing to see a chunk of metal become a work of art (working part for whatever is needed).
Man, i love Tyson’s videos. This guy always brings the BOOM but low key
Great video! The only thing is he left out was one major check/step: When flipping your part for 2nd op, your "soft" jaws should be cut fresh(and a specific way) to clamp onto the turned suface so that your part runs true and your O.D. to O.D. concentricity is good. You would put a test or drop indicator on the cut surface that you're clamped onto and give it a spin to make sure you don't have runout. Fresh cut jaws cut at the diameter of what you're clamping onto(whilst being chucked onto something, if possible) is the best way to ensure a part running true. Not all of us get the best machines and the best & brand new chucks on them.(sarcastic joke). Great video other than that! *thumbs up emoji*
I love reading comments by people that know what they’re doing.
I just left a shop where I ran a 39”x255” Oil field lathe. A ToolMex TUR930. I had to put a 2” wide burnished strip on both ends of the pump shafts I made. The tolerance was -.000375” TIR, but the circles were on average 150”-250” apart…. Failed 1 out of the 87 I did. Best I ever got was .00016”…..Absolutely crazy but not when you have multiple steady rests and you develop a methodology based on the scientific method.
It’s amazing what we are capable of.
@@kw2519 Awesome!
Definitely brother. Some people were ordained by The Almighty to be masters of their trades and kings of the craft!
Yes! Good knowledge right there :)
Tyson is a natural born educator. 👍👍
Keep it up Tyson! This industry needs a lot more people like you.
#Manufacturing
#Machining
#Quality
Love the idea of making series out of the different parts! Keep up the great work Tyson!
I haven't been in a shop for 20 years.
Started on Bridgeports.
Yeah that long ago.
I love this stuff
just love you MAN 👨 (TITANS OF CNC IS THE BEST)
Thnaks you! I miss this kind of work. Operating CNC was the best job I ever had with Dana Corporation.
You can hear Titan's passion for CNC machine work has made it into his son...Tyson, well done sir!
Great job 👏 using this method for six years on the multus b200
For stainless I've been using the sandvik XM-2220, I run it at 650 sfm and .012 ipr, but I only take between .06-.08 per pass, it works awesome
Just out of curiosity what grade stainless are you running because 17-4 ph is a heat treatable stainless steel and cuts almost like inconel. It is nothing like 316.
@@wendull811 17-4 is nothing like inconel. 17-4 ph cuts like butter.
@@loukola5353 we must have the wrong inserts then because the shop I work in struggles all the time with it.
@@wendull811 y’all should be able to dial in 15-5 / 17-4.
It’s not like aluminum lol, but it cuts well as far as stainless goes, and in my experience I prefer it over 316 because its harder and chips better.
Don’t let it get in your head, go get some carbide inserts, read up, and experiment with it. It is a very useful steel.
@@samuelyoung2671 I haven't seen any of it since that post so I still haven't got to try new stuff with it yet.
Very nice looking part! Man Tyson really knows how to make beautiful lath parts!!
Tyson is awesome.
I love watching his videos.
Pretty dope. Wish we had those machines in our shop.
Tyson is a chill dude
Just wondering for that funky angle why you did go in with a radius groove tool and make the angles with it. Something like an Iscar CGHN-D 26-3D with a GIPY 3.00-1.50 insert.
That's what I do when I have something funky. Works great.
It's about time you went metric. It sounds so yesterday when you talk imperial. I stopped working in imperial in 1996. And that was late.
This be just another day in my life. Must be nice to have brand new everything.
Hi could you explain why at 3:28 there doesn't appear to be an undercut for grinding relief but at 3:39
there is. Plus I think you missed a trick , you could have run a finish cut along the hex peaks to de-burr
as your tool would have been at that location at some point , just saying.
Youd flatten the threads to much surely ? Wire brush does a better job
@@jamsstar2010 Hi I commented hexagon peaks (across corners)not thread. Just want to emphasise my explanation.
@Engineering guy until he's been on that machine for a while longer those things won't come naturally to a lathe based guy, sort of thing 5 axis Miller guys see without thinking, save a sharp edge and doesn't take very long to sort. Also if the drawings don't call for it.. and it's not on the model because modeled fillets and chamfered edges can be a pain sometimes.
Good video though and aiming at the right level for the viewers, choosing to put a chamfer on an edge, or undercut that the designer forgot about isn't a learning level decision 🤔😉.
Pretty simple part. You chould have made the undercut from first side by changeing b-axis in degress until the insert can fit in. I work on a dmg-ctx1250 . Allso roughing down the part on second side with a mill whould save you some time. Just my thoughts.
Top 1%
Have a great weekend
@@TITANSofCNC thank you, you aswell
Was the angle more than the 60 on first side? Looked like it would clear. Maybe a chuck clearance issue. But yea having a B axis is nice. Integrex here.
@@mynicki444 if the insert can be in the undercut on second side , it can get in there on first side , its just a matter of what angle your b axis is in , or else just use another neutral turning tool with no angle if its a matter of clearence to the chuck
Tilting the tool just blew my mind, awesome feature on the machine.
Teach me your ways Sensei 🙏
When I'm taking that amount of stock off I like to use a 15 degree SNMG 1.2mm rad. I havent seen you guys bother so now idk maybe it's a bit old school lol. A beautiful part you have made though ❤️
a .12 snmg is grand for hard materials.... I go with the standard .8. So the stupids dont get confused! :)
I like your old ways. I use a lead angle 15 degree CNMG
Yes we bought some too its a waste using 4 edges and throwing them away
@Opy fdfd yeah s316 or softer I use 1.2 the tougher stuff inconel ect the .8 seems to do better idk why but that's why you keep records
our dorris sharmans use all the 15degree cnmg sides mainly for facing as they are turning big faces etc.
The smile at the end says all :)
I get hung up on this all the time. For the rough turn operation
the SFM is 250, The RPM says N/A. Don't you need to have a G50 to set a Max RPM ? What Sets your RPM on the roughing operation ?
If I'm not mistaken, you'd still need a G50 to set the maximum RPM. Then, you'd just use a G96 to set your surface speed. That way, you keep the constant 250 SFM, but won't exceed whatever RPM you set with the G50.
Usually I set the G50 to 3000 or so RPM in general, but if I have a job with a big or long part I'll give it a few test spins at different high RPMS and listen to how the machine sounds and set it based on that. For this one with the tail center, I left it at 2000 max on the front and 3000 on the back knowing with my SFM it wouldn't reach that fast unless it went to center.
That’s gravy man
[06/29/22] Beautiful work. Imagine having to make 100+ of these parts?? What was the clear coolant that was used? Does the SMX have multiple coolant reservoirs, or do you have to change it out manually?
Part looks good, why no chamfer tool used on the hex?
Titan, I dropped by your shop this morning. Awesome place. Didnt see you there, but I left my card with one of your people. Im in government contracting. I would love to meet and talk sometime.
The Part looks beautiful !
Hi where we can see the video where you are finishing the multi-axis turning on smx DOSSAN
Gorgeous work as always
Nice cool trick on the approach on that odd angle cut thanks
Love these Lathe videos ! Thank u !
are you using water or water based cutting oil? if oil what brand?
The likes dont match the views yall so lets "Titan" up!
Great) what class of workers is needed to make this part?
This is for Mill/Turn Machinists
9 Axis Top Level
Honestly to set up not to bad as long as the guy that programed it did a beautiful simple setup sheet and the tooling is tip top 👌 (I know all the guys at this place would). I really love these lathe vids so clear and concise
Grooving cycle before live tooling with a button insert. More rigidity at the chuck end for this op.
Grinding would not be necessary if you adjust the geometry in Mastercam to offset taper in the part. This is unless you need an absolute mirror finish.
The shaft could have a 4-5 digit tolerance
Ya I had that though about the groove too, then I would've also parted it down most of the way so all you had to do on the second op was 1 rough and 1 finish pass and then the center. I also agree unless there's some bizarre tolerance on a part like that it should have been easy to finish it on the lathe. We do stuff that size to better than .0005" all the time.
What type is used for cutting fluid? I never seen a transparent cutting fluid.
Bro... Whatt amazing cut you do... The best
Why did you spent time on finishing pass as .003 per rev if it goes grinding anyway.
Tyson milking that job. lol
Curious how to separate the cutting lube I noticed one step you used a water soluble oil?
Slick trick for the 9 axis use what's all ready there
Not sure why you didn't do the undercut with a regular VNMG after milling. Have to see the drawing maybe you didn't have enough material to hold onto in the chuck or something?
He could of but not with the angle that holder is holding the insert at, spindle would be in the Chuck
Great looking part Tyson & explanation, Titan today I had a bet on a HORSE called Titans & it won 6/1 vvhappy, Titan keep on keeping on
5:15, how do you compensate for the fact the you are using the front and the back of the tip, cutter comp wont work unless you use both cutter comps in the same line, hmm?
You look super tough man.
Look at that slow motion pose 😂 😆
[06/29/22] Also it would really be helpful to place links to the previous, and subsequent videos in the description section.
I wish I could just shadow this guy for 6 months just to learn
I run 17-4 at over 500 sf
Great video T
Chip printer go *brrrrr*
Here in Germany we drill the hole 1. before we turn the surface. In the center is no speed ... And why do U want to turn to a mirror surface in the spot what`s to be grindet later ? Did I miss something there ?
Masters of the craft
I know this.
I have experience with MAZAK INTEGREX and DMGMORI NTX machines.
:D
When roughing Steels I use WNMG much stronger insert lasts longer with 6 cutting edges same price of cnmg...
Ha the center hole! Edge Precision show a way to always mill the center hole with a end mill with your B axis. He is write a mill center hole is alone better then a center drill.
Can more talk about grinding, speeds and feed with many diameter and rpm for details, rpm for grinding weel, and couple advice about feed on different materials. sory for my bad English.
Why not use a bandsaw to cut down machine time on the facing operation?
I am so interesting your CNC machine such amazing
might have an issue with the precision of the position of the all the features given that you are now locating off a drilled chamfer hole that you only machined right at the end.
you guys are great.
I love my Kennametal 4-12 tangential facemills, we use it all the time in our mills
Damn , great work 👏 👍 👌
Please upload a video of Soft Jaws boring technique for this operation
That's simple, spider in the master Jaws and bore away as normal
@@rick371 i didn't understand properly, you upload a video
🤣🤣 so i guess i'm better then 99% of my fellow workers. Nice.... finally someone acknowledges my full potential.👍
How much would a single run cost?
17-4 SS? Never heard of that. What did the raw material cost? Nice job! Must be at close to $1 grand for that pivot shaft.
I do know that it’s commonly used in the medical industry, I’m a machinist and I work with 17-4 quite often for making surgical tools
It is used quite a bit in Aerospace and we also used it quite a bit for various valve stems.
Where I work we make mostly everything out of 17-4 for surgical/orthopedic parts. 17-4 is a tool steel that leaves a really nice finish and isn't too hard to machine.
It's a common alloy where I work, too. Definitely one of my favorite stainless steels.
I wouldn't be surprised elon has titan on speeddial for a many of things.
omg why so baitclick titles, you don't need it you're better than this, by the way thank you for your content!
Why finish so slow if you're grinding it?
Use the G73 cycle for the undercut.
Why is the surface finish so critical on this shaft?
Its amaizing....
How did he confirm the finished length accurately without removing the part from the jaws?
Micrometer off the turned face of the hex, plus any grinding allowance if it was on there. That's your known size.
Otherwise, without any similar features you will have to take a skim off the face and remove it and measure and then re set in the jaws and measure off the face with tool or probe if you have one.
Never ever off the pre machined face of the Jaws you just put in, you're never able to judge how much they might move when the pressure comes up, can do for first side though as it doesn't matter as much.
1% huh? Where would a person go to get this $$$ you speak of? 😄
I guess I missed something, because I really wanna know what on this "Incredibly Complicated 17-4 Stainless Steel Part" is Incredibly Complicated? And what is the thing that "Only 1% of Machinists Know" about?
Well, my last lathe job is over 25 years ago and I'm only into milling now, so I might be a little bit rusty to see the "complicated" and "unusual tricky" part here.
Nevertheless good tutorial video.
Drop the mic Tyson!
I always reverse finish on the bore seesh
Why not use 80 degree inserts? They are much stronger than 55 or 35.
Woot woot first comment!
Billet aluminum 120 degree blocks
Not quite sure why you call this setup extremely complicated in previous parts.
I would say extremely easy mate.
I would have taken the excess material and turned it into a chuck ring.
Are these videos called attack strategies?
Простая деталь.
I'm sure the worst part of sharing the process used to manufacture this part is all the second-guessing and criticism .. was a machinist in a job shop for 35 years, one thing I learned is everyone has a their own way of making a part. And if the part is a good one when completed, then the machinist obviously knows what he is doing.
I would rough face by turning rather than conventional facing if youre worried about backend wobble. Turning offers mainly Z forces that way and you dont have to nibble at it.
That is a good idea and probably helpful for long or small dia parts. Thanks for that idea.
@@Josquatch we do it for internal boring too, as the forces in X can deflect silent bars and the like. Then kiss the face after
Nice work until the end. A center drill is a lathe tool not a mill tool. Spin the part not the tool. Ensures trueness.
Center drill creates a center that the grinder is going to use lol
Exactly what I thought too!
@@rick371 You should read Justin's comment again mate.
He knows what the centre drill op is for it's how they done the op is the problem.
@@SirRootes if the tool and workpiece are both running true(as they should be) , then it does not matter if the tool spins or the work piece spins
If... why risk it. Its a lathe tool. Spin the part and its always true. The machine can do both. Just saying do it proper.
Always satisfying to end up with a nicely machined part. Alost sexy.
Almost…?
I sing… “Sexy & You Know It”… to my Parts and Thick Chips😍😍😍
@@TITANSofCNC Thicc* 😅
Can’t tell y’all how many videos for how long when y’all called out “tenths” I was thinking 0.1 and not ten thousandths lol. If you couldn’t tell I’m not a machinist 😅
A tenth in machining is used to describe one ten thousands (1/1000) of an inch or .0001"
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
단가가 얼마일가
Are you trolling us with these titles?🤔
That is a hole, not a machining center lol.
*Make your boss $$$*
Bet any money that second centre drill isn't true.
I guess I belong to the 1%. Seen nothing new here
Less than 1% ? Sorry man😂, stuff like that and more complicated parts we made already in the apprenticeship... 15 years ago...