Thank you! Glad the intro was decent. I have always ran this engine the wrong way it looks like. DCC showed me the errors of my way and set me straight.
great job brother man…. When you said there’s no smoke, it made me giggle. Great accomplishment they are kind of confusing even when you have directions.
Thank you. I have had projects where they smoked instead of work, so I was happy with that. Sometimes instructions don’t cover everything but she wish they would.
This is why I LOVE KATO !! Simplicity..... NO wires to mess things up. A couple tips for you. Remember.you can read CV'S on the program track. Look on your digatrax decoder instructions, and you should see your recommended CV value chart something like cv2 =2 cv4=128 cv6=255. These are the most common setting for your loco's. You will need to set cv3 and cv5 for momentum. You can do this with your momentum button also, but I like to do all 6 CV's at once on the program track. The loco you have here is considered a SWITCHER. So some like it to run at different speed steps than mainline locos. This is up to you. I followed the advice of an experienced modeler and set cv3&5 to 4. I have found this works well for me. I set these values on all my locos. This just helps to remember a baseline, and you can adjust from there when you have slower or faster engines. It only gets easier from here !! Minus the temperamental decoder issues you will run into here and there 😂 Oh yeah , if you mess up remember CV8 to 8 or CV30 to 2. This will reset to factory settings. Write this down because it it happens to most of us modelers 😩
I’d double check the instruction sheet before following the cv settings given. I think ronhart4166 meant to refer to cv2, 5, and 6 instead of 2, 4, and 6. And when he refers to cv 3 and 5 settings, the pair of settings should be cv 3 and 4. On digitrax, cv8 is what’s used to reset the decoder to factory settings. cv30 is used on nce decoders.
Thank you both for the information. I think I adjusted the values correctly as is seems to run well but we shall see. Steep learning curve but the NCE unit is user friendly once you get going. I was very happy with how easy the decoder was to install.
Good job, there should be a F on one end of the shell. The F means that is the front of the locomotive. Not being smart just tiring to help. I always put a piece of tape over the tabs just to hold them down so they don’t come lose. Hope you got some sleep. Thanks for sharing. Have a good day.
I will have to look at the shell for that as photos of it are confusing as it is pointing in all sorts of directions giving the impression both are correct. I did not get enough sleep but that is life right now. My late night projects certainly do not help either. Thanks for checking out the video.
That worked out great. I just my first Kato install in an sd70 and my clips were soldered on.. wish mine was snap on.. wonder why they were different. But good it all work out for you, that's a nice little switcher..
Yeah, I was happy with how it went. Just out of curiosity, did you buy your unit new or used. if used maybe the previous owner soldered it. If new, I’m not sure why it would be different. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
@@Silverstatetrains my decoder was new but they are tcs. So that would be the difference but don't understand why they would be that way. And the loco was brand new from Lombard hobbies..
Hi Stephen. Kato really didn't want you to fit a decoder, did they? Well done, though. I would say that the cab was at the back. Sometimes, there is a CV (depending on the decoder) that allows you to change which are the forward and reverse directions.
Yeah it was pretty easy to install this decoder which I was very happy about. I heard this engine was difficult from others but Kato really did make it easy. It does look like the cab is the back of the engine after all. Thanks.
@@Silverstatetrains Some engines, like GP-7s or GP-9s, are run either way. If you want the cab to be the front you can change CV29 to 55 (Custom speed table, analog, reverse, 28/128 speed step) to run backwards. Analog let's the engine run on DC without changing anything; pretty sure all digitrax have this. I believe CV29 is standard between all decoders, so look up a table of values, press esc and enter program on main, select that decoder number and press 2 for CV. Program on main only affects the selected engine number. I've done a bunch of installs over the past few years and just finished doing a TSU-KN1 for a P42 which has tons of customization and even uses Index 2 CVs which I never even knew about. It does get easier to do over time.
Wow great info. Thanks for sharing. I had no idea I was running this engine backwards but DCC showed me my mistake. I’m good running it correctly I just had no idea. Thanks!
Congrats on your 1st install brother!!! It runs great! I always thought long nose was front. Loved the intro with trains running!!
Thank you! Glad the intro was decent. I have always ran this engine the wrong way it looks like. DCC showed me the errors of my way and set me straight.
Congratulations!
Thank you!
great job brother man…. When you said there’s no smoke, it made me giggle. Great accomplishment they are kind of confusing even when you have directions.
Thank you. I have had projects where they smoked instead of work, so I was happy with that. Sometimes instructions don’t cover everything but she wish they would.
@@Silverstatetrains very true
👍🏻
No smoke....that is a great sign...
In most cases, that is a great sign. Thanks for watching.
For new people, your videos are supurb
I am glad to hear that! Thank you!
This is why I LOVE KATO !! Simplicity..... NO wires to mess things up. A couple tips for you. Remember.you can read CV'S on the program track. Look on your digatrax decoder instructions, and you should see your recommended CV value chart something like cv2 =2 cv4=128 cv6=255. These are the most common setting for your loco's. You will need to set cv3 and cv5 for momentum. You can do this with your momentum button also, but I like to do all 6 CV's at once on the program track. The loco you have here is considered a SWITCHER. So some like it to run at different speed steps than mainline locos. This is up to you. I followed the advice of an experienced modeler and set cv3&5 to 4. I have found this works well for me. I set these values on all my locos. This just helps to remember a baseline, and you can adjust from there when you have slower or faster engines. It only gets easier from here !! Minus the temperamental decoder issues you will run into here and there 😂 Oh yeah , if you mess up remember CV8 to 8 or CV30 to 2. This will reset to factory settings. Write this down because it it happens to most of us modelers 😩
I’d double check the instruction sheet before following the cv settings given. I think ronhart4166 meant to refer to cv2, 5, and 6 instead of 2, 4, and 6. And when he refers to cv 3 and 5 settings, the pair of settings should be cv 3 and 4. On digitrax, cv8 is what’s used to reset the decoder to factory settings. cv30 is used on nce decoders.
Thank you both for the information. I think I adjusted the values correctly as is seems to run well but we shall see. Steep learning curve but the NCE unit is user friendly once you get going. I was very happy with how easy the decoder was to install.
nice work, well done :)
Thank you! I appreciate it.
Good job, there should be a F on one end of the shell. The F means that is the front of the locomotive. Not being smart just tiring to help. I always put a piece of tape over the tabs just to hold them down so they don’t come lose. Hope you got some sleep. Thanks for sharing. Have a good day.
I will have to look at the shell for that as photos of it are confusing as it is pointing in all sorts of directions giving the impression both are correct. I did not get enough sleep but that is life right now. My late night projects certainly do not help either. Thanks for checking out the video.
That worked out great. I just my first Kato install in an sd70 and my clips were soldered on.. wish mine was snap on.. wonder why they were different. But good it all work out for you, that's a nice little switcher..
Yeah, I was happy with how it went. Just out of curiosity, did you buy your unit new or used. if used maybe the previous owner soldered it. If new, I’m not sure why it would be different. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
@@Silverstatetrains my decoder was new but they are tcs. So that would be the difference but don't understand why they would be that way. And the loco was brand new from Lombard hobbies..
Interesting. I am not sure then. Nothing wrong with soldering it on though.
Hi Stephen. Kato really didn't want you to fit a decoder, did they? Well done, though. I would say that the cab was at the back. Sometimes, there is a CV (depending on the decoder) that allows you to change which are the forward and reverse directions.
Yeah it was pretty easy to install this decoder which I was very happy about. I heard this engine was difficult from others but Kato really did make it easy. It does look like the cab is the back of the engine after all. Thanks.
@@Silverstatetrains Some engines, like GP-7s or GP-9s, are run either way. If you want the cab to be the front you can change CV29 to 55 (Custom speed table, analog, reverse, 28/128 speed step) to run backwards. Analog let's the engine run on DC without changing anything; pretty sure all digitrax have this. I believe CV29 is standard between all decoders, so look up a table of values, press esc and enter program on main, select that decoder number and press 2 for CV. Program on main only affects the selected engine number. I've done a bunch of installs over the past few years and just finished doing a TSU-KN1 for a P42 which has tons of customization and even uses Index 2 CVs which I never even knew about. It does get easier to do over time.
Wow great info. Thanks for sharing. I had no idea I was running this engine backwards but DCC showed me my mistake. I’m good running it correctly I just had no idea. Thanks!
Haha, your work is correct but I did in a haphazard style. Lol. That decoder was the easiest I ever installed. Oh, no capton tape used.
I covered the top with the capton tape. I was interrupted when my daughter woke up and I forgot to hit record when I came back for that part.