Thanks for getting back to me. I'm enjoying your videos. Do you think using two 220uf capacitors would be even better at improving keep alive time since there is not much difference in size? I'm planning on ordering and playing with Tantalum keep alives and would appreciate all the advice I can get.
Generally speaking bigger capacitors are better. But the generally accepted wisdom is that you need about 1000uF to start seeing results if you want to keep the motor running. You should also keep an eye on the voltage the caps are rated for. I use 20V caps to have a safety margin in relation to the 14V track voltage. Caps rated for lower voltages tend to be smaller, but I'm worried about pushing my luck. Tantal caps die a spectacularly fiery death and I'd rather not witness one going off inside one of my engines.
The loksound decoders are very versatile and offer a lot configuration options, so the easiest way to configure them is the lokprogrammer software. It can be done manually though, and here's how: First you need to set cv31 to 16 and cv32 to 0. Then you need to figure out which function output you want to modify. The brightness CV for the first output(front light) is CV 262. Then it's +8 for each of the following outputs, so CV 270 for output 2, CV 278 for output 3 ( aux1) and so on. There's a list of the CVs for all the outputs in section 12.5 of the manual.
Thanks! The most important reason for me is that the entire select line, including the drop in boards, are only marketed in north america. I live in europe so the regular micros are a lot easier to source, because virtually all vendors carry them. On longer frame engines you might also have issues with dim headlights because the LEDs are further away from the light conductors. And if the frame doesn't provide room for the speaker you have to make frame modifications anyway. But the drop in boards have certainly been a huge factor in the recent wave of models with factory installed sound. A real game changer in that area.
73100 and 73199 are v4 boards where this is a v5. v5 offers more functions and better sound. Also, whilst they are useful the 73100 does not drop in, and is large enough that it makes finding a home for the speaker tough. For large locos like the SD70ACe the 73199 works really well, but only if like me you have a mill to modify the frame.
At any point, were any wires connected to the truck systems? If not; hypothetically, could the trucks be changed out with newer ones without compromising the functionality of the locomotive?
I haven't run wires from the trucks to the frame. Newer Atlas engines come with those from the factory, though. You could disassemble the trucks and solder small wires from the metal contacts inside the truck up to the pickups on the frame. So far I didn't feel that was necessary though. If the contact inside the truck and the contact strip at the frame where reasonably clean I've never had any issues.
@@ModularRailroading I’m actually switching over a Kato E8A DCC/sound fitted locomotive frame and pairing it with an E8B shell. One of the trucks doesn’t have the coupler attachment so I was wondering if I would be able to switch out the trucks without worrying about DCC wiring issues. It sounds like the contact strips mean I’m good to go in my situation though
The total dimensions of the baffle are 18mm long, 7mm tall and 9mm wide. The cutout in the front for the light duct is 2.5mm front to back and also 2.5mm from the top. The cutout on the bottom back for the frame is 1.5mm tall and 11.5mm long.
The 100uF help the decoder to remember what it was doing while the engine coasts over dirty spots with the fly wheels. This is especially important if you're using the drive hold function a lot. The capacity is not enough to keep the motor running a noticable amount of time.
No, you just need the decoder. The separate adapter is just in case you bought the decoder with the wrong adapter or the adapter that came with the decoder gets lost.
I've uploaded the enclosure to shapeways: shpws.me/RJa0 It's made for the speaker from the Zimo LS8x12. It might work with the Soberton 8x12 as well as it's a similar size but I can't really tell since I'm still using up my stash of Zimo speakers.
Thank you very much for sharing that information. I will definitely get on shapeways and purchase some. I have several 4 axle locomotives that needed some sound.
Excellent Tutorial! I want to install sound decoders in some of my Kato locomotives, so this will help greatly.
Excellent presentation, your experience has been really helpful....
Thank you! Let me know if you have any questions.
I want a video on how to install dcc decoders in Bachman f-9 locomotives in n-scale that were made back in the late 80's
Thanks for getting back to me. I'm enjoying your videos. Do you think using two 220uf capacitors would be even better at improving keep alive time since there is not much difference in size? I'm planning on ordering and playing with Tantalum keep alives and would appreciate all the advice I can get.
Generally speaking bigger capacitors are better. But the generally accepted wisdom is that you need about 1000uF to start seeing results if you want to keep the motor running. You should also keep an eye on the voltage the caps are rated for. I use 20V caps to have a safety margin in relation to the 14V track voltage. Caps rated for lower voltages tend to be smaller, but I'm worried about pushing my luck. Tantal caps die a spectacularly fiery death and I'd rather not witness one going off inside one of my engines.
Wow this is great ,,, do you know what CV changes the brightness of lights? Headlights/ditch lights?
The loksound decoders are very versatile and offer a lot configuration options, so the easiest way to configure them is the lokprogrammer software. It can be done manually though, and here's how:
First you need to set cv31 to 16 and cv32 to 0.
Then you need to figure out which function output you want to modify. The brightness CV for the first output(front light) is CV 262. Then it's +8 for each of the following outputs, so CV 270 for output 2, CV 278 for output 3 ( aux1) and so on.
There's a list of the CVs for all the outputs in section 12.5 of the manual.
Fantastic install but curious why not just use the ESU drop in board 73100 instead? A little easier to install in my opinion.
Thanks! The most important reason for me is that the entire select line, including the drop in boards, are only marketed in north america. I live in europe so the regular micros are a lot easier to source, because virtually all vendors carry them.
On longer frame engines you might also have issues with dim headlights because the LEDs are further away from the light conductors.
And if the frame doesn't provide room for the speaker you have to make frame modifications anyway.
But the drop in boards have certainly been a huge factor in the recent wave of models with factory installed sound. A real game changer in that area.
73100 and 73199 are v4 boards where this is a v5. v5 offers more functions and better sound. Also, whilst they are useful the 73100 does not drop in, and is large enough that it makes finding a home for the speaker tough. For large locos like the SD70ACe the 73199 works really well, but only if like me you have a mill to modify the frame.
At any point, were any wires connected to the truck systems?
If not; hypothetically, could the trucks be changed out with newer ones without compromising the functionality of the locomotive?
I haven't run wires from the trucks to the frame. Newer Atlas engines come with those from the factory, though.
You could disassemble the trucks and solder small wires from the metal contacts inside the truck up to the pickups on the frame. So far I didn't feel that was necessary though. If the contact inside the truck and the contact strip at the frame where reasonably clean I've never had any issues.
@@ModularRailroading
I’m actually switching over a Kato E8A DCC/sound fitted locomotive frame and pairing it with an E8B shell.
One of the trucks doesn’t have the coupler attachment so I was wondering if I would be able to switch out the trucks without worrying about DCC wiring issues.
It sounds like the contact strips mean I’m good to go in my situation though
What measurements did you use for the enclosed speaker box to 3D print it?
The total dimensions of the baffle are 18mm long, 7mm tall and 9mm wide. The cutout in the front for the light duct is 2.5mm front to back and also 2.5mm from the top.
The cutout on the bottom back for the frame is 1.5mm tall and 11.5mm long.
Can you tell me how the keep-alive worked out? Was the two100uf capacitors enough?
The 100uF help the decoder to remember what it was doing while the engine coasts over dirty spots with the fly wheels. This is especially important if you're using the drive hold function a lot. The capacity is not enough to keep the motor running a noticable amount of time.
Would you happen to have a part number for the decoder?
The part number for the decoder is 58813. An adapter from Next18 to wires is also sold separately as part number 51993.
@@ModularRailroading thank you. So I would need both then?
No, you just need the decoder. The separate adapter is just in case you bought the decoder with the wrong adapter or the adapter that came with the decoder gets lost.
can you make me some of those speaker enclosures?
I've uploaded the 3D file to shapeways: shpws.me/RJa0
They can print the enclosure for you.
Would you be interested in selling the 3D printed speaker enclosure per request?
I've uploaded the enclosure to shapeways: shpws.me/RJa0
It's made for the speaker from the Zimo LS8x12. It might work with the Soberton 8x12 as well as it's a similar size but I can't really tell since I'm still using up my stash of Zimo speakers.
Thank you very much for sharing that information. I will definitely get on shapeways and purchase some. I have several 4 axle locomotives that needed some sound.
@@ModularRailroading ,Thank you for the information. I had went onto Shapeways and ordered a few my collection of four axle units.
Nice! Let me know how they work for you.
Modular Railroading , I will.