Awesome. I just had a 70k scheduled maintenance at land Rover because of the rattle. They said it was normal. They said they "checked my timing chain" other than putting a tension guage on it thru the oil filler cap I don't know how they can. But said my chain is tight as it can be. I'm replacing that coupler myself. My stethoscope hears a knock ! Great video. It all makes sense now. Cheers
It's hard to believe that the guy who designed this part didn't think that plastic may not be the best choice of material for this particular job! $800 + labour? Wow!! Thanks from the UK...we can have a beer at a outside a pub now!
That's awesome! So can we but unsure if we should or not.... And there was a service bulletin to send the snouts back in to land rover so they could engineer a fix, unsure if that fix ever came about or not.. have a beer for me man!
Very informative video, I was doing the same to my 3.0 lr4 when I tore the snout down I noticed the spring from the coupler was digging into the shaft and left some marks, I'm replacing the bearings as well, do you think it's necessary to replace the shaft or just do the coupler ?
In the 5.0 and 3.0 engines this coupler runs dry, so fails as you show. On the 4.2 it runs in the oil that lubricates the front gears, so problems with it are much less. I had a screeching sound from my supercharger (2008 Super V8) which was the rear needle bearings. I bought a low mileage used supercharger and it's been fine. The coupler on the old supercharger wasn't broken. To test these torsional couplers hold the blades and turn the pulley in the drive direction. It should engage the torsion spring and give about 10 degrees of rotation before binding. Release the pulley and rotate it in the opposite direction. It should have spring action about half the angle of the drive direction. The first spring absorbs the shock of engine acceleration and the second absorbs the deceleration shock. It's a good system to make the supercharger as quiet as possible, but the coupler isn't good in dry situations as the plastic gets brittle and breaks. I think those couplers should be routinely replaced before they start knocking.
I've decided to NOT use the green nylon solid one for fear of it possibly causing added vibration and stress on the bearing and other components of the SC on my 5.0 engine. I hear the solid nylon ones for the 3.0 V-6 are ok to use and not to worry.
It is NOT always that coupler making the noise. Both mine and a friends make the same marble knocking noise from back half of supercharger at idle. I found a failed coupler but after replacing, still makes exact same noise. His does too and coupler also replaced. Mine sounds like it’s coming from the right side front screw bearing. Bearing failure is also common on these superchargers, especially if they have ran for a while with failed coupler. Oil changes are necessary, too, as the Eaton superchargers have a separate “lifetime” oil in the unit that should be changed regularly too. Supposedly pump cavitation can cause this exact noise also, but I haven’t investigated this claim yet, just sounds like a plausible idea. Dealer considers this noise “normal” after coupler update has been completed.
Worn bearings on the super charger cause the spinning blades to catch the edges as the tolerance is so fine I know this because I changed that coupling part to a solid plastic type and discovered the bearings and signs of wear on the edges of the blades
Ok did the job. My pulley would rotate halfway around before catching and turning the veins. After I got in there I see one of the veins had just started to touch the side and make marks. This was due to bad needle bearings from shavings from the coupler. Started cracking bolts when check engine light came on.
Thanks for posting this. Could this be the same problem as this video? ruclips.net/video/QZHxycp8uc0/видео.html I was told it could be the timing chain but your video makes more sense of the in consistent rattle sound.
Awesome. I just had a 70k scheduled maintenance at land Rover because of the rattle. They said it was normal. They said they "checked my timing chain" other than putting a tension guage on it thru the oil filler cap I don't know how they can. But said my chain is tight as it can be. I'm replacing that coupler myself. My stethoscope hears a knock ! Great video. It all makes sense now. Cheers
Do you have a reference for replacing the part? Don't wanna get the same problem after replacing it. Many Thanks 👌👌
Do you have a guide to get that part out to do the repair?
Very helpful. Thank you. Will be tackling this one rainy weekend. 😊
Great video, can you do a video of the engine running with the knock?
Where do I get the part for a 2013 RRS SC 5.0 I need the part number or name or something!!
Some aftermarket couplers on eBay are just a single nylon piece with NO spring. Would it be better to stick with the original plastic design w/spring?
I have 2010 Jaguar XF Supercharged 5.0L. I have the same problem. Do you have a full video on how to replace it?
Thank u for your information. I have a question What if we don’t fix it , does it will cause the problem to the whole engine ? Thank u for your answer
It's hard to believe that the guy who designed this part didn't think that plastic may not be the best choice of material for this particular job! $800 + labour? Wow!! Thanks from the UK...we can have a beer at a outside a pub now!
That's awesome! So can we but unsure if we should or not.... And there was a service bulletin to send the snouts back in to land rover so they could engineer a fix, unsure if that fix ever came about or not.. have a beer for me man!
David G due to harmonics and cost plastic is probably one of the best materials.
Do you have a reference for replacing the part? Don't wanna get the save problem after replacing it. Many Thanks
Very informative video, I was doing the same to my 3.0 lr4 when I tore the snout down I noticed the spring from the coupler was digging into the shaft and left some marks, I'm replacing the bearings as well, do you think it's necessary to replace the shaft or just do the coupler ?
If it’s just scratches you’ll be fine, if it’s gouges the. I’d replace it.
In the 5.0 and 3.0 engines this coupler runs dry, so fails as you show. On the 4.2 it runs in the oil that lubricates the front gears, so problems with it are much less. I had a screeching sound from my supercharger (2008 Super V8) which was the rear needle bearings. I bought a low mileage used supercharger and it's been fine. The coupler on the old supercharger wasn't broken.
To test these torsional couplers hold the blades and turn the pulley in the drive direction. It should engage the torsion spring and give about 10 degrees of rotation before binding. Release the pulley and rotate it in the opposite direction. It should have spring action about half the angle of the drive direction. The first spring absorbs the shock of engine acceleration and the second absorbs the deceleration shock. It's a good system to make the supercharger as quiet as possible, but the coupler isn't good in dry situations as the plastic gets brittle and breaks. I think those couplers should be routinely replaced before they start knocking.
Anybody have any experience with the solid green aftermarket couplers?
I heard from a couple of my gm friends and they use them and are ok.
I've decided to NOT use the green nylon solid one for fear of it possibly causing added vibration and stress on the bearing and other components of the SC on my 5.0 engine. I hear the solid nylon ones for the 3.0 V-6 are ok to use and not to worry.
It is NOT always that coupler making the noise. Both mine and a friends make the same marble knocking noise from back half of supercharger at idle. I found a failed coupler but after replacing, still makes exact same noise. His does too and coupler also replaced. Mine sounds like it’s coming from the right side front screw bearing. Bearing failure is also common on these superchargers, especially if they have ran for a while with failed coupler. Oil changes are necessary, too, as the Eaton superchargers have a separate “lifetime” oil in the unit that should be changed regularly too. Supposedly pump cavitation can cause this exact noise also, but I haven’t investigated this claim yet, just sounds like a plausible idea. Dealer considers this noise “normal” after coupler update has been completed.
I've got a similar situation going on after replacing the coupler in mine. How did you troubleshoot the noise down to the screw bearings?
Mine is doing it too, is it safe to drive?
Great! Any clue where I can get the part for a 2016 RR SC?
Will it put the car in limp mode in anyway?
About to replace with the green poly version on my car, do you replace or re use the inlet manifold gaskets? Thanks
Always replace
@@wrenchmonger where are you located can you fix mines on my jaguar xj
South Florida.
@@wrenchmonger how much do you charge to put a new coupler in?
@@wrenchmonger please what’s your email address
Does this get misdiagnosed as a bad motor?
It can. Same with timing chain and phaser rattle
Same problem with my 2014 Jaguar XJR
What is the supercharger size on 2010 range rover 5.0?is it tvs1900?
Eaton m122
@@wrenchmonger Incorrect, the Eaton m122 is on the 4.2 liter Land Rover, not the 5.0.... which is the TVS1900
What is that plastic called I have the same problem with that noise but haven’t found the name of the part can anyone help
Its a coupler
are there any major concerns if not replaced in time? performance issues?
The coupler falls apart and you basically lose boost because the two drives are no longer connected.
Worn bearings on the super charger cause the spinning blades to catch the edges as the tolerance is so fine I know this because I changed that coupling part to a solid plastic type and discovered the bearings and signs of wear on the edges of the blades
I changed mine to a solid coupler and it was noisier and ruined my bearings. Was squealing like a stuck hog after a few thousand miles.
You think this could be problem on 5.0 Jaguar xjl supercharge
And what was the knocking sounding like I could send you videos of how mine sounds
Send it to me on Instagram @wrenchmonger. It can happen on any jaguar 5.0 supercharger engine
@@wrenchmonger ..
Have a video of a rover in trying to buy abnormal Loud have 2 min cold start video to big to send to ig
How to diagnose ?
Use a stethoscope to listen, if the noise is loudest at the snout of the supercharger, there's your problem
But where does the broken piece go ? I mean it's gotta go somewhere
That’s a fantastic question that weirdly has never crossed my mind before. It’s gotta be there somewhere
Lmaoo
Ok did the job. My pulley would rotate halfway around before catching and turning the veins. After I got in there I see one of the veins had just started to touch the side and make marks. This was due to bad needle bearings from shavings from the coupler. Started cracking bolts when check engine light came on.
Wow $800!
It can be more depending on the shop and the mark up!
Thanks for posting this. Could this be the same problem as this video?
ruclips.net/video/QZHxycp8uc0/видео.html
I was told it could be the timing chain but your video makes more sense of the in consistent rattle sound.