Spotmatic meters are pretty reliable no matter what anyone might say. The only failure besides dirty contacts is if the needle housing breaks internally and the needle does not move freely any longer.
@@mikepxg6406 Spotmatics have a adjustable resister (under the film crank) you can turn to set the correct exposure. If this does not work for you, then maybe you are just having bad luck. I have a huge collection and bought and sold many more. I have never had selenium failure yet, knock on wood.
@@mikepxg6406 Spotmatics are reaching 65 years of age so maybe selenium failure is starting to become more of an issue. For me, I have yet to run across this issue. I have a fairly large collection of first generation SP's, some I have put together out of parts, with no selenium issues. I have bought and sold many through the past 40 years. Most common problem is corroded battery compartment. There is a adjustable resister under the film winder you can set when adjusting the light meter. I would attempt this first unless your meter is just dead. I am not sure how selenium's fail.
I have used a variety of methods, all with mixed results. In most cases, like the spotmatic above with its nylon battery well (this fits the new style 387s battery @ 1.55v), I generally start with vinegar and a Q-tip or even a tooth brush, ( would also do this with the bottom removed). If that doesnt quite do it then brass or other metal polish and a Q-tip. If the corrosion is crusty, a soak in vinegar can be helpful, followed by very a very gental toothbrush scrubbing. In cases when there is pitting of the metal surfaces, you can try streching a narrow piece on fine emery cloth (400 or similar) over the eraser end of a pencil and lightly scrub the affected areas. On the compression contacts inside the camera body I try to stick with gentler methods like metal polish. I have used similar methods on the newer style cameras that take the more modern batteries like the 357. Good luck, if you find another method or try one of the above methods, please post your results, every little bit of input helps.
probably the meter cell in the viewfinder got thrown out of whack. you can get to by taking off the top and removing the prism but its a lot of fine work and the needle is as delicate as a human hair. The cell is replaceable if you could ever find one.
No moving parts ? Apart from meter switch, Shutter speed potentiometer, Adjustment potentiometer on PCB and moving magnet meter. !!! This is So badly explained. First the camera switches negative and the positive is grounded. The selenium cells are wired in series and are colour coded to match the ISO/Shutter potentiometer. This iso potentiometer forms 2 parts of the bridge the selenium cells and the calibration potentiometer form the other 2 parts of the bridge. its a very simple circuit. They are easy to repair if you have plenty of parts from old donor cameras and a fine soldering iron.
I have used steel wool to clean corroded battery contacts mostly on flash units with great success
Spotmatic meters are pretty reliable no matter what anyone might say. The only failure besides dirty contacts is if the needle housing breaks internally and the needle does not move freely any longer.
I have replaced selenium cells is 3 camera in the last 2 months. You are incorect.
@@mikepxg6406 Spotmatics have a adjustable resister (under the film crank) you can turn to set the correct exposure. If this does not work for you, then maybe you are just having bad luck. I have a huge collection and bought and sold many more. I have never had selenium failure yet, knock on wood.
@@mikepxg6406 Spotmatics are reaching 65 years of age so maybe selenium failure is starting to become more of an issue. For me, I have yet to run across this issue. I have a fairly large collection of first generation SP's, some I have put together out of parts, with no selenium issues. I have bought and sold many through the past 40 years. Most common problem is corroded battery compartment. There is a adjustable resister under the film winder you can set when adjusting the light meter. I would attempt this first unless your meter is just dead. I am not sure how selenium's fail.
Good overview of the meter circuit. Thanks
You are joking.....
Picked up a black SP. someone took the bottom cover off, and replaced it with a chrome one. No battery cover. Happen to have one in the part bin?
sorry, no, i got rid of a lot of stuff.
@@tobroken1965 Well, thanks anyway. Thanks for the videos, they really help!
Any tips on cleaning battery compartment ?
Solvent or brasso?
I have used a variety of methods, all with mixed results. In most cases, like the spotmatic above with its nylon battery well (this fits the new style 387s battery @ 1.55v), I generally start with vinegar and a Q-tip or even a tooth brush, ( would also do this with the bottom removed). If that doesnt quite do it then brass or other metal polish and a Q-tip. If the corrosion is crusty, a soak in vinegar can be helpful, followed by very a very gental toothbrush scrubbing. In cases when there is pitting of the metal surfaces, you can try streching a narrow piece on fine emery cloth (400 or similar) over the eraser end of a pencil and lightly scrub the affected areas. On the compression contacts inside the camera body I try to stick with gentler methods like metal polish. I have used similar methods on the newer style cameras that take the more modern batteries like the 357. Good luck, if you find another method or try one of the above methods, please post your results, every little bit of input helps.
Thanks for the tips!
Mine is broke after I drop the camera, the needle keep on minus position
probably the meter cell in the viewfinder got thrown out of whack. you can get to by taking off the top and removing the prism but its a lot of fine work and the needle is as delicate as a human hair. The cell is replaceable if you could ever find one.
@@tobroken1965 thank you 👌👌
Don't drop them...
@@mikepxg6406 Don't drop or smack them hard.
how to clean merier.
the moving meter is not serviceable you must replace it if it is broken.
No moving parts ? Apart from meter switch, Shutter speed potentiometer, Adjustment potentiometer on PCB and moving magnet meter. !!!
This is So badly explained. First the camera switches negative and the positive is grounded. The selenium cells are wired in series and are colour coded to match the ISO/Shutter potentiometer. This iso potentiometer forms 2 parts of the bridge the selenium cells and the calibration potentiometer form the other 2 parts of the bridge. its a very simple circuit. They are easy to repair if you have plenty of parts from old donor cameras and a fine soldering iron.