man. i love the way you explain everything in a language, that really everyone is able to understand. thank you for your videos! oh, and btw: i am afraid that my spotmatic does need a full shutter overhaul as the mirror keeps hanging up on slower times. that probably happens, because the second curtain does not run the hole way. would you recommend adding some tension to it anyway or should i wait for your video on a full shutter overhaul?
Hi, I was cleaning a Spotmatic that I found in a yardsale and noticed this: i.imgur.com/tJVX2q2.png could this be due to a lack of tension in one of the ribbons that pull the curtain? best regards.
From the photo it looks as if the shutter connecting band has either slipped off a guide roller or detached from the roller. The problem might be visible or correctable by removing the front plate. ( the top cover should be removed first... the front plate screws are hiding under the leatherette)
Yay! Spotmatic! I have a battered SP500 in dreadful shape that I bought cheaply, specifically to practise tear-down skills on (that way if I mess it up or lose parts, nothing has really been lost). The more Spotmatic stuff you bring out, the happier I (for one) will be. :)
Not only inspired, absolutely extra tic, that’s ecstatic! If only these things where common knowledge! It’s a bit like knowing how to put a plaster on, when done right, the healing is improved. DG New Forest U.K.
I think that I read (on the Pentax forum) that I tiny dot of watch oil on the spring really makes the difference for shutter problems. Is this correct, and maybe you can tell me which bit needs the tiny bit of oil. Or, maybe there's already a video about this? Thanks in advance.
Hello dear. Congratulations for the video. I got one of my pics on my Spotmatic F with the right of the pic dark. It was set to 1/1000. I've got all the roll ok, except this one. By coincidence, my hands shaked while taking the pic. Maybe a hand shaking could cause this effect? If no, should I increase or decrease the tension on the second screw? Thanks a lot!
It is hard to say because it is relevant to which curtain is dragging. Try increasing the tension first by a turn and then hold the camera up to a strong light source and you will be able to see any changes. Also in the same manner watch the shutter a couple of times before making adjustments for a point of reference.
I'm so thankful to you by sharing such precious and rare knowledge. I performed the adjustment and all seems working fine. I'm gonna test with a roll of film tomorrow. God bless you so much. Hugs from a Brazilian analog cameras lover.
I have my dad's old Pentax KX that doesn't seem to like to take the most evenly exposed photos in the cold (right side is noticeably darker). Would you be able to explain in a video or in a reply what parts need to be cleaned and lubed? Thank you for your incredibly detailed and helpful explanations on your channel. Cheers!
@@FixOldCameras(Or anyone else that has the answer) Hello, I have the exact same issue Sean has with my K1000, and I'm wondering what can be done to fix it... Is it possible to have a quick explanation of what to do in this case? It seems like it would be an easy fix, but I'm worried I'm going to damage my camera if I go into it blindly.
What a great channel. Well used is certainly one way of describing that camera. :) You should do a video on how to adjust shutter speeds. Slow shutters are probably the biggest mechanical problem with old Pentax cameras with stuck mirrors being #2. I have a nice looking MX that really doesn't look like it needs more than some light seals, a decent cleaning and the shutter adjusted. At the one second setting it exposes for something like 2-3 seconds before closing the shutter. I know that some people have used digital recordings of shutters to determine their speed and made adjustments. Are these tensioning screws what actually adjusts the timing as well?
+Zos Xavius The slow speeds of the MX are controlled by a slow speed escapement mechanism. It is in need of cleaning and a spot or two of light lubricant. You will need to partial disassemble to gain access.
I have an immaculate mint condition Spotmatic F with this problem so I don't shoot with it. When you say 'one full turn' do you mean the adjustment screw or a full turn of the little gear ? Thanks so much for this video ...
Have you encountered a Spotmatic with a light meter that refuses to work?? I have an SPII that I'm trying to fix, I can only think to clean the battery contacts but that hasn't seemed to work
I planning on buying on-line a Pentax SV with some problems at 1000/500. Seller says 1000 can not be confirmed, and 500 is fast and erratic ( slower speeds are said to be ok). Should I take a chance and hope this repair will solve the problem? Well I need to tighten or loosen that top worm screw? Thanks, Great video!
I have two Zeiss Contaflex. One works great the other is jammed up. The jammed one used to work but one cold day it just quit. Every camera repair shop I contacted refused to service it due to it's complexity. If you are interested I would donate it to you for a video.
+John Schroeder Thank you for your offer and yes it is a complex camera, but in most cases it can be repaired. However, avoiding the possibility of an avalanche of donated cameras, Fix Old Cameras gratefully declines your generous offer. If you still have any interest it getting it repaired you might go to www.phototronic.biz/services.html
i have a pentax spotmatic the mirror locked up, simple fix with your video but the curtain got stuck is there a fix for curtain lock up? thanks in advance
Since you address "old cameras" could you give me some advice on fixing a Mamiya M645 Cds prism viewfinder to get the Shutter Speed/ASA to align up correctly. The meter looks good but the dial for the shutter/asa is not aligning correctly. I have repaired some of my other cameras to include a few M645s. I can't find anything on repairing the prism for this issue that I am having.
Hello. I'd like to know your opinion: I bought a Ricoh Singlex II with their Auto Rikenon 1:2 f = 50mm, M42 lens kit. The body shoots without problems until the lens is in place: the mirror goes up and stays there without opening the curtain. Generally, by loosening the lens 1/16 of a turn the sequence ends, but sometimes it is possible to remove the objective showing that the mirror is not fully raised, leaving 1/32" below the mirror bumper. You can simulate this failure by stopping the diaphragm's pin pusher slightly, behind the lens, "at six." (the AUTO system) And If you flip the camera, it works. You know: Turning it upside down. Like the gravity helps the system to make the job. But don't need it if the objective is not set... The diaphragm pin movement looks good: 50g (2oz) is enough to get the job done from 1:16 to 1:2.8 but it suddenly goes to 150g (5.3oz) at 1:2 (maximum aperture: when the blades are fully open and they should not be closed). Do you know this type of failure? Where do I start looking? Thanks.
It sounds like you narrowed it down to the aperture stop down linkage of the camera or the aperture stop down off the lens. If the camera is behaving the same way with other lens than it is a weak camera. If it just the lens in question than a stiff linkage on the lens.
Thanks for answering, @@FixOldCameras ...! Yes... I was thinking about make a "cross test" with an other M42 equipment that works well, testing the lens and the body simultaneously. I imagine that I can fix a stiff linkage on the lens with a cleaning. Isn't it? But... Has solution a weak camera? Cleanning too? (Unfortunately I can't find the service or repair manual...)
I have a Pentax spotmatic which is capping at 1/1000s. I tried adjusting the tension of the second curtain but accidentally it lost all tension. It seems the spring inside dissociate from the curtain axis. Is it unrepairable or it is an extremely difficult task for an amateur？Thanks in advance.
I have a Zorki 4, and at 1/500 and 1/1000 the frame never gets opened fully at those times. The second curtain chases the first curtain making a slim strip of distance from right to left. Is it a correct behavior of a shutter, or should it open fully no matter what shutter speed is selected. I have uneven exposure, but it is really hard to diagnose because I have to check if that strip of light is even throughout the whole frame
i have a camera where the shutter does not work at the 250 shutter speed setting. would you suggest making the same repair to try and solve the problem?
Is it blank at 250 and above? If so that could be an issue with curtain travel times and could possibly be corrected by adjusting the curtain tensions slightly.
Hi! How difficult can it be to repair the shutter button on a *"Spotmatic II"* that has stuck in the low position? Do you know that camera? See you, Eduardo.
Turn the camera upside to see if gravity causes the button to drop out of the low position. Such an occurrence would indicate the timer or release linkage has jammed. Should it stay down then seep some isoproply alcohol around the button and insert a cable release and pull up and spin the cable as unit until the button works free.
+sewing1243 It does not matter since the actual curtain travel time is not being measured for this repair tip. Typically if the shadow is on the left adjust the first curtain, if the shadow is on the right start with the second curtain. The goal is to match the travel times by just using your eye and a back lit shutter.
I wish you haven't mentioned completed remove the worm, as I remove it, the gear complete release all the tension of the spring and now the curtain just loose and cannot get back...
oops... it is unfortunate that you chose to take that step when it is not shown in the video as part of the adjustment. If you remove the front plate you should be able to re- tension the shutter roller without taking out the mirror box. Peel back the leather and remove the front plate. The Pentax Spotmatic and K-1000 is one of the few cameras where the front plate is not part of the mirror box. A warning has been added to the video in the form of a poll card. Even though yours is the first of such a mishap reported, hopefully it will now be the last.
@@FixOldCameras I also removed the worm gear and let tension go after a screw up. Do you know how many revolutions are standard for the two gears, i can't seem to find a good starting point for adjusting. Thanks in advance
@@FixOldCameras I accidentally removed it too. Can you tell me where exactly can I perform re-tensioning of the shutter roller? Look forward to your response as I am trying to fix this myself
man. i love the way you explain everything in a language, that really everyone is able to understand. thank you for your videos! oh, and btw: i am afraid that my spotmatic does need a full shutter overhaul as the mirror keeps hanging up on slower times. that probably happens, because the second curtain does not run the hole way. would you recommend adding some tension to it anyway or should i wait for your video on a full shutter overhaul?
I have several pentax cameras with this problem and never even knew of these adjustment screws. thank you so much for this perfect video explanation
+Matt Bechberger Good luck with the adjustments. A little tweak will typically correct the issue.
Another great video, your narration is just fine sir. Thanks for the video :)
+RalphMalf
Thank you for comment. It is greatly appreciated.
Hi,
I was cleaning a Spotmatic that I found in a yardsale and noticed this: i.imgur.com/tJVX2q2.png could this be due to a lack of tension in one of the ribbons that pull the curtain? best regards.
From the photo it looks as if the shutter connecting band has either slipped off a guide roller or detached from the roller. The problem might be visible or correctable by removing the front plate. ( the top cover should be removed first... the front plate screws are hiding under the leatherette)
Thank you for this valuable information, I'll use it at a later time.
Good luck with future repairs.
Yay! Spotmatic!
I have a battered SP500 in dreadful shape that I bought cheaply, specifically to practise tear-down skills on (that way if I mess it up or lose parts, nothing has really been lost). The more Spotmatic stuff you bring out, the happier I (for one) will be. :)
+Hooray for Pentax! Good to hear.
Not only inspired, absolutely extra tic, that’s ecstatic! If only these things where common knowledge!
It’s a bit like knowing how to put a plaster on, when done right, the healing is improved. DG New Forest U.K.
I think that I read (on the Pentax forum) that I tiny dot of watch oil on the spring really makes the difference for shutter problems. Is this correct, and maybe you can tell me which bit needs the tiny bit of oil. Or, maybe there's already a video about this?
Thanks in advance.
Hello dear. Congratulations for the video. I got one of my pics on my Spotmatic F with the right of the pic dark. It was set to 1/1000. I've got all the roll ok, except this one. By coincidence, my hands shaked while taking the pic. Maybe a hand shaking could cause this effect? If no, should I increase or decrease the tension on the second screw? Thanks a lot!
It is hard to say because it is relevant to which curtain is dragging. Try increasing the tension first by a turn and then hold the camera up to a strong light source and you will be able to see any changes. Also in the same manner watch the shutter a couple of times before making adjustments for a point of reference.
I'm so thankful to you by sharing such precious and rare knowledge.
I performed the adjustment and all seems working fine.
I'm gonna test with a roll of film tomorrow.
God bless you so much.
Hugs from a Brazilian analog cameras lover.
Good to hear of your success.
@@EFPianist Which spring did you adjust (to start with)? Thanks in advance.
I have my dad's old Pentax KX that doesn't seem to like to take the most evenly exposed photos in the cold (right side is noticeably darker). Would you be able to explain in a video or in a reply what parts need to be cleaned and lubed? Thank you for your incredibly detailed and helpful explanations on your channel. Cheers!
The issue with your KX could be featured in an FOC video. It is caused by uneven curtain tensions exacerbated by the cold conditions.
@@FixOldCameras Is there a video about this? Thanks.
@@FixOldCameras(Or anyone else that has the answer)
Hello, I have the exact same issue Sean has with my K1000, and I'm wondering what can be done to fix it... Is it possible to have a quick explanation of what to do in this case? It seems like it would be an easy fix, but I'm worried I'm going to damage my camera if I go into it blindly.
What a great channel. Well used is certainly one way of describing that camera. :)
You should do a video on how to adjust shutter speeds. Slow shutters are probably the biggest mechanical problem with old Pentax cameras with stuck mirrors being #2. I have a nice looking MX that really doesn't look like it needs more than some light seals, a decent cleaning and the shutter adjusted. At the one second setting it exposes for something like 2-3 seconds before closing the shutter. I know that some people have used digital recordings of shutters to determine their speed and made adjustments. Are these tensioning screws what actually adjusts the timing as well?
+Zos Xavius The slow speeds of the MX are controlled by a slow speed escapement mechanism. It is in need of cleaning and a spot or two of light lubricant. You will need to partial disassemble to gain access.
+Fix Old Cameras thanks. I will check it out.
I have an immaculate mint condition Spotmatic F with this problem so I don't shoot with it. When you say 'one full turn' do you mean the adjustment screw or a full turn of the little gear ? Thanks so much for this video ...
Have you encountered a Spotmatic with a light meter that refuses to work?? I have an SPII that I'm trying to fix, I can only think to clean the battery contacts but that hasn't seemed to work
I planning on buying on-line a Pentax SV with some problems at 1000/500. Seller says 1000 can not be confirmed, and 500 is fast and erratic ( slower speeds are said to be ok). Should I take a chance and hope this repair will solve the problem? Well I need to tighten or loosen that top worm screw? Thanks, Great video!
There is a fair possibility that this minor adjustment might help. As far as to which shutter, one or both could be in play.
I have two Zeiss Contaflex. One works great the other is jammed up. The jammed one used to work but one cold day it just quit. Every camera repair shop I contacted refused to service it due to it's complexity. If you are interested I would donate it to you for a video.
+John Schroeder Thank you for your offer and yes it is a complex camera, but in most cases it can be repaired. However, avoiding the possibility of an avalanche of donated cameras, Fix Old Cameras gratefully declines your generous offer. If you still have any interest it getting it repaired you might go to www.phototronic.biz/services.html
i have a pentax spotmatic the mirror locked up, simple fix with your video but the curtain got stuck is there a fix for curtain lock up? thanks in advance
Since you address "old cameras" could you give me some advice on fixing a Mamiya M645 Cds prism viewfinder to get the Shutter Speed/ASA to align up correctly. The meter looks good but the dial for the shutter/asa is not aligning correctly. I have repaired some of my other cameras to include a few M645s. I can't find anything on repairing the prism for this issue that I am having.
I have this problem for my Olympus om1, is there a way to fix it?
Hello.
I'd like to know your opinion:
I bought a Ricoh Singlex II with their Auto Rikenon 1:2 f = 50mm, M42 lens kit.
The body shoots without problems until the lens is in place: the mirror goes up and stays there without opening the curtain.
Generally, by loosening the lens 1/16 of a turn the sequence ends, but sometimes it is possible to remove the objective showing that the mirror is not fully raised, leaving 1/32" below the mirror bumper.
You can simulate this failure by stopping the diaphragm's pin pusher slightly, behind the lens, "at six." (the AUTO system)
And If you flip the camera, it works. You know: Turning it upside down.
Like the gravity helps the system to make the job.
But don't need it if the objective is not set...
The diaphragm pin movement looks good: 50g (2oz) is enough to get the job done from 1:16 to 1:2.8 but it suddenly goes to 150g (5.3oz) at 1:2 (maximum aperture: when the blades are fully open and they should not be closed).
Do you know this type of failure?
Where do I start looking?
Thanks.
It sounds like you narrowed it down to the aperture stop down linkage of the camera or the aperture stop down off the lens. If the camera is behaving the same way with other lens than it is a weak camera. If it just the lens in question than a stiff linkage on the lens.
Thanks for answering, @@FixOldCameras ...!
Yes... I was thinking about make a "cross test" with an other M42 equipment that works well, testing the lens and the body simultaneously.
I imagine that I can fix a stiff linkage on the lens with a cleaning. Isn't it?
But... Has solution a weak camera? Cleanning too?
(Unfortunately I can't find the service or repair manual...)
@@eduardolarrea4426 Likely cleaning and light lubrication or possibly a spring fatigued.
@@FixOldCameras
That fatigued spring thing doesn't sound good...
Getting a replacement must be difficult.
I have a Pentax spotmatic which is capping at 1/1000s. I tried adjusting the tension of the second curtain but accidentally it lost all tension. It seems the spring inside dissociate from the curtain axis. Is it unrepairable or it is an extremely difficult task for an amateur？Thanks in advance.
really interesting videos. great job 👍👍👍
+Matthew Lymer Thank you.
I have a Zorki 4, and at 1/500 and 1/1000 the frame never gets opened fully at those times. The second curtain chases the first curtain making a slim strip of distance from right to left. Is it a correct behavior of a shutter, or should it open fully no matter what shutter speed is selected. I have uneven exposure, but it is really hard to diagnose because I have to check if that strip of light is even throughout the whole frame
No shutter should not cap
terrific tutorial tim tanks i mean thanks
i have a camera where the shutter does not work at the 250 shutter speed setting. would you suggest making the same repair to try and solve the problem?
Is it blank at 250 and above? If so that could be an issue with curtain travel times and could possibly be corrected by adjusting the curtain tensions slightly.
Actually it's just the 250 speed. You can hear the shutter stay open considerably longer than it should. Higher speeds don't have that issue.
Very good. Thank you.
No problem and thank you for your continued interest in FOC.
Hi!
How difficult can it be to repair the shutter button on a *"Spotmatic II"* that has stuck in the low position? Do you know that camera?
See you,
Eduardo.
Turn the camera upside to see if gravity causes the button to drop out of the low position. Such an occurrence would indicate the timer or release linkage has jammed. Should it stay down then seep some isoproply alcohol around the button and insert a cable release and pull up and spin the cable as unit until the button works free.
Thank you, @@FixOldCameras ...!
How can the camera owner determine which curtain needs adjusting?
+sewing1243 It does not matter since the actual curtain travel time is not being measured for this repair tip. Typically if the shadow is on the left adjust the first curtain, if the shadow is on the right start with the second curtain. The goal is to match the travel times by just using your eye and a back lit shutter.
I wish you haven't mentioned completed remove the worm, as I remove it, the gear complete release all the tension of the spring and now the curtain just loose and cannot get back...
oops... it is unfortunate that you chose to take that step when it is not shown in the video as part of the adjustment. If you remove the front plate you should be able to re- tension the shutter roller without taking out the mirror box. Peel back the leather and remove the front plate. The Pentax Spotmatic and K-1000 is one of the few cameras where the front plate is not part of the mirror box. A warning has been added to the video in the form of a poll card. Even though yours is the first of such a mishap reported, hopefully it will now be the last.
Thank you, just have sent it to a technician, I may not have enough proper tools to handle it...Regards
Maybe the next time. Don't give up. Good luck.
@@FixOldCameras I also removed the worm gear and let tension go after a screw up. Do you know how many revolutions are standard for the two gears, i can't seem to find a good starting point for adjusting. Thanks in advance
@@FixOldCameras I accidentally removed it too. Can you tell me where exactly can I perform re-tensioning of the shutter roller? Look forward to your response as I am trying to fix this myself
Thank you.
+Ap Yamanon You are welcome.
^_^ nice to meet you,
Ricoh 300
Riken Optical Ricoh 300? Certainly a possible feature.