That cable is RH/RW cable, so technically you're right that it doesn't need to be in conduit, but if you're in a tropical area that has hurricane season, running cables in conduit is a must, this ensures your cables survive a catastrophic hurricane, I went as far as to build a bunker on top of my house to store panels during a catastrophic hurricane, I don't play 😂
Nice!! I would think in that case, the hurricane would probably rip the conduit off of whatever it's attached to as well, but whatever you can do to make it stay, I say, do it up.
@7kinhomestead all conduit is clamped with unistrut, fastened to concrete, things are different around here, my roof is steel reinforced concrete with double mesh rebar and 1-1/4 inch rebar reinforcement, I only lost a few outdoor lights during hurricane Maria lol.
I am absolutely defeated with my solar setup 😂. My current issues are a fuse popping whenever I run 1000w on my 2000w system. “40amp fuse supplied in kit from renogy” My other issue is I have 6 panels 4 100w and 2 200w running parallel. I thought that would be 800w but I’m only getting 370w. Can’t run in series because my 40amp renogy charge controller can’t handle the voltage.
I totally understand. It can be daunting to sort through these things. First off, the panels need to be electrically similar. The bidder panels will bottleneck through the smaller and will only ever make the same power as the smaller ones. As for the inverter issue, what's the load? It sounds like one of two things must be causing that. 1, the inrush power upon startup is significantly higher than 1000 watts for just long enough to pop the fuse or a wiring problem. Is the inverter 120vac or split phase 240vac?
Concise clear explanation. You deserve more likes and subscribers.
Thank you!! I sure do appreciate that!!
Very straightforward and well explained it’s really not as hard as people think God Bless
Absolutely. I think most people could diy solar, no problem.
Good info
Thanks!! 🙏👍
Love your content! Thank you for your detailed and funny explanations 😊
I'm glad you're enjoying it!! 😊
That cable is RH/RW cable, so technically you're right that it doesn't need to be in conduit, but if you're in a tropical area that has hurricane season, running cables in conduit is a must, this ensures your cables survive a catastrophic hurricane, I went as far as to build a bunker on top of my house to store panels during a catastrophic hurricane, I don't play 😂
Nice!! I would think in that case, the hurricane would probably rip the conduit off of whatever it's attached to as well, but whatever you can do to make it stay, I say, do it up.
@7kinhomestead all conduit is clamped with unistrut, fastened to concrete, things are different around here, my roof is steel reinforced concrete with double mesh rebar and 1-1/4 inch rebar reinforcement, I only lost a few outdoor lights during hurricane Maria lol.
@MosaicHomestead nice.
I am absolutely defeated with my solar setup 😂. My current issues are a fuse popping whenever I run 1000w on my 2000w system. “40amp fuse supplied in kit from renogy” My other issue is I have 6 panels 4 100w and 2 200w running parallel. I thought that would be 800w but I’m only getting 370w. Can’t run in series because my 40amp renogy charge controller can’t handle the voltage.
I totally understand. It can be daunting to sort through these things. First off, the panels need to be electrically similar. The bidder panels will bottleneck through the smaller and will only ever make the same power as the smaller ones. As for the inverter issue, what's the load? It sounds like one of two things must be causing that. 1, the inrush power upon startup is significantly higher than 1000 watts for just long enough to pop the fuse or a wiring problem. Is the inverter 120vac or split phase 240vac?
@ Gotchya, does the power from larger panels still get bottlenecked running parallel? My inverter is a renogy pure sin wave 2000w
@ I’m going to have to guess it’s single phase 120
Not trying to plug myself but I’ve got some videos on my solar setup haha