Nice video. I am glad you had a nice neighbor. I have the 1/2 HP opener and the only thing that happens when we push the button is the lights come on. There is no noise. It is like the motor just doesn't run at all. I took it down and took it apart and I can manually turn the motor. Seems to spin easily. and the white plastic gear are in good shape and move in both directions. So I was wondering how your friend found out his opener had bad electronics. I wonder do those capacitors ever go bad or is it the circuit board. The motor says right on it 120 AC and I notice their is a red, blue and white wires coming from the motor. Red and blue go from motor to the capacitor. There is also a purple and a red wire coming from the circuit board to the 4 post capacitor. Looks like the white wire from the motor eventually connects to the white common wire coming in from the power plug. I also saw you test yours just by plugging it in and pushing the remote. I have not tried that yet since nothing but the lights came on when we did ours. No motor movement or anything. I also I thought I would have to rig up some wiring to my obstruction sensors just to test things, but perhaps I do not have to rig that up. Did yours have obstruction sensors. Any help you could throw out here would be most appreciated.
You used the wrong grease. It will help but not last very long. You need to use some heavy white lithium grease on the nylon gears and should have coated the shaft inside the bronze/brass bearings also. As long as you keep lubrication on all your moving parts, those openers will easily last 25 - 30 years as long as your door is also lubed annually.
exactly what i needed. thanks
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks for the well explained instructions. Mine just went out. Hopefully is an easy fix.
Helpful thanks again
Nice video. I am glad you had a nice neighbor. I have the 1/2 HP opener and the only thing that happens when we push the button is the lights come on. There is no noise. It is like the motor just doesn't run at all. I took it down and took it apart and I can manually turn the motor. Seems to spin easily. and the white plastic gear are in good shape and move in both directions.
So I was wondering how your friend found out his opener had bad electronics. I wonder do those capacitors ever go bad or is it the circuit board. The motor says right on it 120 AC and I notice their is a red, blue and white wires coming from the motor. Red and blue go from motor to the capacitor. There is also a purple and a red wire coming from the circuit board to the 4 post capacitor. Looks like the white wire from the motor eventually connects to the white common wire coming in from the power plug.
I also saw you test yours just by plugging it in and pushing the remote. I have not tried that yet since nothing but the lights came on when we did ours. No motor movement or anything. I also I thought I would have to rig up some wiring to my obstruction sensors just to test things, but perhaps I do not have to rig that up. Did yours have obstruction sensors.
Any help you could throw out here would be most appreciated.
Do you know how to adjust the limit switch in this opener? The garage door closes down and bounce back and stop in the middle of the track.
You used the wrong grease. It will help but not last very long. You need to use some heavy white lithium grease on the nylon gears and should have coated the shaft inside the bronze/brass bearings also. As long as you keep lubrication on all your moving parts, those openers will easily last 25 - 30 years as long as your door is also lubed annually.