That sheet metal looks fantastic to me. We just experienced a similar scenario. The Caterpillar Highway yellow we've been using is no longer available. That sent us scrambling! Building is going to be exciting. Very happy for you!
Thanks! Unfortunately the camera just couldn't catch the majority of the orange peel, but when you look at it you can definitely tell - it's like looking at textured glass, shiny but bumpy. I've also been experiencing a lot of different types of paints that I've been using for years suddenly going away, I think it has a lot to do with changing pollution and emissions rules for solvents and evaporative chemicals. The one thing I do know, is that a LOT of the best performing paints are now no longer available.
Excellent video the H paint job looks nice thru the camera lens. The Rd6 would move the cultimulcher out of way plus it could use some exercise lol keep up the great videos
Strange we have a gallon on that in stock. MS sometimes waits to make a batch of paint. Have your local check the other stores in your area and the Distribution warehouse.
Did that - results only showed 3 gallons left in the US - one in Hawaii, one in Anchorage Alaska, and one in Florida. But Napa won’t ship paint outside of the distribution region that it’s currently in, so no luck in getting any up to MN.
I agree, exciting times. One trip to the field with the H will eliminate any need for perfection with the paint. It will be back to work as originally intended. Good luck with the building.
I know exactly how you feel squatch I am painting a fordson dexta right now it’s my first tractor ever painting I have been using endura paint which is a good Canadian paint brand and I did a test batch on an old fender and it looked like glass then when I started on the chassis I started having some issues so it’s not only you squatch ! Everything looks fantastic I have picked up many tricks and tips from your videos so thank you !
Thanks for the update, Squatch You did what you did with what you had and for what this statement's worth, I think the paint job looks good. Maybe not "Squatch approved" but I know bodyshop's that would love to get your results Well done bud 👍
Thanks for tge update... On the Bork pile, need the RD6 with the raw torque and drag that pile out of there. On the paint items, what about a layer of clear coat thinned to flow smoothly to cover the slight peel?
You could make a video of all the construction supplies arriving, I would find an interesting. Look forward to your next video no matter what it is. You make paint drying and grass grow and see exciting.
I have been spraying high-end finishes in my business for about 50 years. I have sprayed mostly solvent basted lacquers, but I also have used solvent based paints, acrylics, shellac, and just about anything you can spray. I'm going to tell you what causes orange-peel. It's not a mystery. The first thing is the equipment you use. The best method is to use HVLP equipment. There is real HVLP guns and turbines and there are high-pressure gravity feed cup guns that say they are HVLP. Those guns can cause solvent and reducers to evaporate before the paint even hits the surface of your work. With reduced solvent, the paint does not have a chance to flow out before it begins to set. That is what causes the orange-peel. Humidity and temperature will of cause, have a similar effect. The best way to know if your paint is reduced to a correct viscosity is to use a Zahn cup (#2) for thin material. Keep a logbook of how much you thin your paint, what the temp is, and how many seconds it takes for a #2 Zahn cup to empty. If you get the orange-peel, you add some more solvent or reducer and try again on samples. Once you get it right, you will know the next time just how much solvent to add.spraygunplaza.com/pages/how-to-use-a-viscosity-cup
The paint job looks very good and I think that you were able to get everything painted with the right color is the main thing. Your building site looks amazing. I personally would like to see some videos showing the construction of the building. So what ever you decide best of luck with it and can’t wait to see it finished.
Love the paint Squach! Looks professional compared to mine and my H was on a magazine. Your technique is great and I wish I was as experienced when I shot mine.
As a painter, something always goes wrong, no matter how small. I totally hear you about the finish, can be very frustrating! It sure sucks about paint availability! So, how many ducks do you have? I'd love to watch you get them in a row! 🤣 So excited for you and your barn. My brother put one up a year ago and is so pleased with the results, best of luck!
I don't know if polishing the final finish with a fine paste would help? Probably not much however I think it came out fine. Keep us updated on the property.
Fantastic looking paint, pros have different thinners for temperature bands and humidity is critical as the thinners flash off it cools the surface drawing in moisture, dewpoint! Most importantly you did it all yourself 😊
I don't know alot about painting with a gun but with the extra reducer helping the second batch it sounds like the paint thicken slightly. Speaking for myself do what is necessary for the building construction.
I still have a hard time getting used to that bright red paint. I am used to farmall being somewhere between maroon and burgundy. Good luck and good weather wishes for the new building construction
We experienced something similar painting a JD 4020 with older paint. It ended up taking over a month and a half to fully cure, and it was glassy smooth when all said and done.
What I would do when I used to paint cars. After I put on the last coat. I would then leave a little mixed paint in the gun. The fill the gun up the rest of the way with thiner turn the liquid valve up and spry a heavy coat on it moving quickly. I found it helps paint to flow out and leave a smooth looking finish. On your next IH project the paint store should have the formula to mix the paint you need. Granted it will not be an exact match as factory but if painting everything it will be ok.
Hey up mate great news on the up and coming shed really looking forward to seeing some progress, sounds like your paint was a tad thick lad if you have two pints left that should be enough for a flow coat after some annoying sanding back, your going to be looking at the bonnet for a long time whilst sat next to those glassy mmud gaurds, sorry
I haven't used Martin Senour paint for a few years, but it was always good quality paint that was easy to use. I have run into your problem with orange peel not laying down, even with new paint, but had to adjust the mixture just a little with more reducer. Air temperature, surface temperature, and humidity plays a big part. Even a slight change in any of the variables can affect in how it will spray, so I always do a small test piece to confirm my mix and gun is right for the current situation. I have been using Kirker single stage urethanes for a while and I like it. It's not as touchy as some other coatings to lay down. A lot of the older high VOC formulas are going the way of the ghost due to EPA regulations. Pretty soon you won't be able to buy a lot of paints over the counter anymore. You could lightly sand and buff after a long cure time, but the way the hood and other pieces are made, it would be difficult to make them look right around the gauge housings, inside corners and such without burning the paint. I think they look fine for a tractor, but I get how that would bother a guy in that it doesn't quite match the rest. It happens and sometimes you just have to let it go due to circumstances that can't be controlled. The tractor looks very nice to me, and I would be quite happy with how it looks.
Toby it’s been 30 plus years since I use Martin Senor acrylic enamel but I do remember that there was several choices of reducer based on the temperature you were painting in. Maybe adding additional reducer does the same thing when the temp is not in the correct range. Just a thought. That’s for bringing us along.
Don't be too hard on yourself, but I know the feeling. We are our own harsh critic. The H looks great and you do a great job with your channel. Stumbled upon you a while back and now anticipate your next video. Keep it up!
I bet you are exited the building is so close to starting after waiting so long for it to happen. Great time off year to do a job like that. Keeps the mess and damage to the ground around the place to a minimum. Good luck and i hope it goes smoothly. 👍🏻
It does sound like a case of the paint being old and needing more reducer to get it to the proper consistency to spray. It looks great in the video and if someone grumbles about a little orange peel then they are looking to close to find imperfections.
You can always start the painting process over again. Or just scuff everything and paint it all as assembled with a fresh batch of paint. Or just live with it I suppose. This is why I like my patina tractors. It doesn’t matter if the finishes match.
When the building is done, you should do an episode about starting up and moving a bunch of your tractors into it. Maybe a little bit of a walk around on each one
I have Army trucks. The nice thing about them is that if they were repainted in their life; then runs, drips and errors are "correct." Small parts (and sometimes entire vehicles) were often painted with a brush. It had to be green and it had to be done. It didn't have to be done well.
Squatch, FYI it will take at least 6 years before the paint goes off so it becomes un-usable. more likely the solvents had already evaporated, and as you stated you went overboard on the reducer in the second batch for it to flow smoothly. A hint from here in Australia, any good Automotive paint supplier can if they have a colour scanner should be able to make a very very close tint on the IH red for you, yes sadly that means a trek into the BIG SMOKE for you but it maybe worth it. never be sorry for what you may call a short clip, it still keeps us informed on the progress , regards Pete
Will there be a cement floor in the new building and if so, will you be laying plastic under the cement before poring? I have laid 6mil plastic under the floors in my basement and my barn and have never had any metal that has set on the floor rust leaving stains on the cement.
Here is the complete building overview episode that I uploaded a few weeks back, and yes the concrete floor will have moisture barrier put in under it - ruclips.net/video/yucmH9maTbs/видео.html
I am convinced that as paint ages it does thicken, especially if the tin is part used, or has been opened. Also I I would say orange peel is caused by the paint being too thick to fully flow out. This said there is a fine balance between being too thick and too thin. If it is thin you will have annoying runs. If you are not happy you could leave it harden and flat it out and MOP it.
What was the weather today that was diff from the day when the fenders were sprayed? I ran the MS reducer when it was around 50* out and it laid out nice. I suspect on a warmer day and it would flash too quickly. If you have enough material you can wet sand & buff to get a glass like finish. That's what I do since I can never get my gun to lay the paint flat. Sad to hear if the PCC135IH is NLA. I liked that paint and it was convenient to buy premixed.
It was actually cooler that day than it was when I sprayed the fenders, with similar humidity. The only thing that must’ve changed is the consistency of the paint.
I have a few 5 gallon paint pails. With of different colors. The yellow is sure good paint paint a water trough and paint sprayed a trailer under coat then red. That yellow is sur holding up on the trough after 34yrs.
Paint is as you know finicky, and so much can change with temperature and humidity particularly when you are painting outside and not in a controlled environment. I've painted a couple of cars and a couple of boats,, my biggest struggle in south Georgia even with the slowest reducer possible when it's nearly 100° in my tarped off garage I ended up with a lot of orange peel in the clear.. it took a lot of elbow grease wet sanding and buffing too smooth it out. And right in the middle of the hood was a big spot for a big drop of sweat drippef off my face 😂
I can see the orange peel in the hood but it still looks better then any tractor I have ... we had our 520jd cosmetically restored several years ago and it has a light orange peel look to it too still parade worthy though
After the paint dries and hardens for sometime use a fast cut polish on it and the finish that you want can be worked out, just need a little elbow grease with it .
Hey Toby. The H is looking good. I can relate about the finish. I actually had a guy with paint booth spray my sheet metal. The bugs and dust was just too much in my shop. The job he did didn't turn out as well as I hoped for. But I went with it anyway. For one reason the sheet metal had a lot of pitting. And I just didn't take it to the level of using high build primer. Did you paint all the parts right there inside? Looking forward to seeing the new shop. Thanks
Toby, I did a local search for this paint and it appears that it is available at NAPA stores in Crescent, Oklahoma, Kingfisher, Oklahoma and Enid, OK. I hope this helps.
The trouble with Napa is that they won’t ship paint outside of the distribution area that it’s already in - so if I were already in those states it wouldn’t be a problem but getting it into MN can only be done if I go there and buy it, then transport it myself.
I think the paint looks just fine. a little character is just fine too. Best of luck with the building! As far as the Bork item, you might need to use the Kubota back hoe and the Super M to lift it, then it should be able to move it with easy. You might even need to do some sketchy stuff like he does.
Squatch was teaching himself, and us, about "Wabi-Sabi". The Japanese art of finding the beauty in imperfections. Like you said, at the end of the day it's a tractor, and a work tractor at that. It's going to get used, going to get wear, going to get scratches and dings.
I’ve got one spoken for at the local tractor salvage yard, they’re just waiting for things to dry up some before going out to take it off - it’s been a very rainy summer here this year 👍
Let the paint cure,overspray with tinted clear,then wetsand. Modern clearcoats have UV protection,coating the full sheet metal as described will extend the shiny for extra years. I remember in the 70s an experienced painter using the Mercedes recommended paint on a 220S. Turns out the owner had used a lot of silicon based care products that had penetrated deeply. Much nastiness and hate,with the vehicle owner being cagey about what he had actually done. Needed aviation stripper,down to bare metal,high build primer,an extra surfacer product I no longer remember,and only then could conventional techniques work. With all the chemistry changes now required,it really is going to be a crapshoot to obtain a straightforward solid colour paint job,to say nothing of the more sophisticated stuff. I sure hope barn paint doesn't end up being the default choice,but this is the modern world after all.. All the best.
I'm not a painter but have been witness to paint woes (parts store employee). The silliest things can ruin your day: deoderant, perfume, silicone, hairspray, bug spray, air temp, polution, your neighbors' recreation--and that is with an indoor paint booth. I am sorry that the functional parts got the pretty coating and the pretty parts got the functional coating. Still best paint the tractor ever had ;). With the machines you have on hand and the pickles you seem to find yourself in, you may want to invest in a high pressure and flow PTO driven hydraulic pump system and a large cylinder to move (former) friends' equipment when necessary.😊 I swear i heard a mosquito flying...
Third option: someday when you earn megabucks from youtube you get yourself indoor painting space whether that be a booth or curtained off space and paint there instead :P
Even with a controlled environment painting is a roll of the dice! I am beyond amazed at what Squatch does, he would be downright scary good (if not so already) if he had a paint booth.
Toby, you are way too hard on yourself. I think the paint finish looks fantastic.As it ages you won’t be able to see the very very slight orange peel at all. You are definitely a perfectionist. I enjoy all of your videos. Thanks
There must be other companies that can replicate the IH red. I knew when I lived in Connecticut there was a pain company in Norwich Connecticut, that dealt quite a bit an automotive paints. All you had to do was Bring a paint sample in, And they could replicate it.
If the hydraulics on your tractor aren't strong enough to lift the culti-mulcher, are they strong enough to *hold* it up? Could you lift it with jacks, and then extend the road gear and have it stay up under whatever pressure you get?
I second the motion to use the RD6 to shift the cultimulcher. It's been too long since we've heard it. Not sure how much of a challenge it would be. (Maybe getting it stopped once you get it going... 😂)
The RD6 has actually never been over to that property, due to having 1/4 mile of blacktop road between here and there, no good shoulders to drive it on, and too light of a trailer to haul it, unfortunately.
Ok, I did some digging. Martin Senour is made by Sherwin-Williams. I bet, if you went to one of their automotive finishes stores, they could hook you up.
Good paint work, but I think that if you want everything to look the 'same' - you have to do it at the same time. Waiting weeks or months, the paint and atmospheric conditions are not the same. When your paint job looks as good or better than factory original is 'leave it alone'.
That sheet metal looks fantastic to me. We just experienced a similar scenario. The Caterpillar Highway yellow we've been using is no longer available. That sent us scrambling! Building is going to be exciting. Very happy for you!
Thanks! Unfortunately the camera just couldn't catch the majority of the orange peel, but when you look at it you can definitely tell - it's like looking at textured glass, shiny but bumpy. I've also been experiencing a lot of different types of paints that I've been using for years suddenly going away, I think it has a lot to do with changing pollution and emissions rules for solvents and evaporative chemicals. The one thing I do know, is that a LOT of the best performing paints are now no longer available.
Great to see the H painting complete - I might be able to spot orange peel in person, but would never think to check for it on a tractor.
Glad to see all the elements finally cooperated enough to spray some paint!
Great video. Keep us posted on the new building great to see the process. Thx for sharing.
Thanks for the update, glad to see the H in finish paint
Excellent video the H paint job looks nice thru the camera lens. The Rd6 would move the cultimulcher out of way plus it could use some exercise lol keep up the great videos
Strange we have a gallon on that in stock. MS sometimes waits to make a batch of paint. Have your local check the other stores in your area and the Distribution warehouse.
Did that - results only showed 3 gallons left in the US - one in Hawaii, one in Anchorage Alaska, and one in Florida. But Napa won’t ship paint outside of the distribution region that it’s currently in, so no luck in getting any up to MN.
@@squatch253 I could go pick up the one in Anchorage and mail it to you. Probably be in violation of a dozen hazmat transportation regulations though.
I agree, exciting times. One trip to the field with the H will eliminate any need for perfection with the paint. It will be back to work as originally intended. Good luck with the building.
I know exactly how you feel squatch I am painting a fordson dexta right now it’s my first tractor ever painting I have been using endura paint which is a good Canadian paint brand and I did a test batch on an old fender and it looked like glass then when I started on the chassis I started having some issues so it’s not only you squatch ! Everything looks fantastic I have picked up many tricks and tips from your videos so thank you !
Rick's Cultimulcher sounds like a job for the RD6
Thanks for the update, Squatch
You did what you did with what you had and for what this statement's worth, I think the paint job looks good.
Maybe not "Squatch approved" but I know bodyshop's that would love to get your results
Well done bud 👍
Thanks for tge update...
On the Bork pile, need the RD6 with the raw torque and drag that pile out of there.
On the paint items, what about a layer of clear coat thinned to flow smoothly to cover the slight peel?
The need for a quality paint job far exceeds the need for a long video.
You could make a video of all the construction supplies arriving, I would find an interesting. Look forward to your next video no matter what it is. You make paint drying and grass grow and see exciting.
I have been spraying high-end finishes in my business for about 50 years. I have sprayed mostly solvent basted lacquers, but I also have used solvent based paints, acrylics, shellac, and just about anything you can spray. I'm going to tell you what causes orange-peel. It's not a mystery. The first thing is the equipment you use. The best method is to use HVLP equipment. There is real HVLP guns and turbines and there are high-pressure gravity feed cup guns that say they are HVLP. Those guns can cause solvent and reducers to evaporate before the paint even hits the surface of your work. With reduced solvent, the paint does not have a chance to flow out before it begins to set. That is what causes the orange-peel. Humidity and temperature will of cause, have a similar effect. The best way to know if your paint is reduced to a correct viscosity is to use a Zahn cup (#2) for thin material. Keep a logbook of how much you thin your paint, what the temp is, and how many seconds it takes for a #2 Zahn cup to empty. If you get the orange-peel, you add some more solvent or reducer and try again on samples. Once you get it right, you will know the next time just how much solvent to add.spraygunplaza.com/pages/how-to-use-a-viscosity-cup
Even a binks model 7 will occasionally throw orange peal but back in the day you could lay down one hell of a paint job
The paint job looks very good and I think that you were able to get everything painted with the right color is the main thing.
Your building site looks amazing. I personally would like to see some videos showing the construction of the building. So what ever you decide best of luck with it and can’t wait to see it finished.
Love the paint Squach! Looks professional compared to mine and my H was on a magazine. Your technique is great and I wish I was as experienced when I shot mine.
If the orange peel bothers you a clear coat would give an extra layer to settle out over the orange peel. And you could wet sand it after.
As a painter, something always goes wrong, no matter how small. I totally hear you about the finish, can be very frustrating! It sure sucks about paint availability! So, how many ducks do you have? I'd love to watch you get them in a row! 🤣 So excited for you and your barn. My brother put one up a year ago and is so pleased with the results, best of luck!
I don't know if polishing the final finish with a fine paste would help? Probably not much however I think it came out fine. Keep us updated on the property.
I've had that happen many times. Last coat always gets a bit more reducer with great results. Looks good either way.
Fantastic looking paint, pros have different thinners for temperature bands and humidity is critical as the thinners flash off it cools the surface drawing in moisture, dewpoint!
Most importantly you did it all yourself 😊
I don't know alot about painting with a gun but with the extra reducer helping the second batch it sounds like the paint thicken slightly. Speaking for myself do what is necessary for the building construction.
I still have a hard time getting used to that bright red paint. I am used to farmall being somewhere between maroon and burgundy. Good luck and good weather wishes for the new building construction
Exciting! The H is wearing red, and the building is on the horizon! It's amazing how fast they go up once they drill the first hole!
We experienced something similar painting a JD 4020 with older paint. It ended up taking over a month and a half to fully cure, and it was glassy smooth when all said and done.
What I would do when I used to paint cars. After I put on the last coat. I would then leave a little mixed paint in the gun. The fill the gun up the rest of the way with thiner turn the liquid valve up and spry a heavy coat on it moving quickly. I found it helps paint to flow out and leave a smooth looking finish. On your next IH project the paint store should have the formula to mix the paint you need. Granted it will not be an exact match as factory but if painting everything it will be ok.
Hey up mate great news on the up and coming shed really looking forward to seeing some progress, sounds like your paint was a tad thick lad if you have two pints left that should be enough for a flow coat after some annoying sanding back, your going to be looking at the bonnet for a long time whilst sat next to those glassy mmud gaurds, sorry
I haven't used Martin Senour paint for a few years, but it was always good quality paint that was easy to use. I have run into your problem with orange peel not laying down, even with new paint, but had to adjust the mixture just a little with more reducer. Air temperature, surface temperature, and humidity plays a big part. Even a slight change in any of the variables can affect in how it will spray, so I always do a small test piece to confirm my mix and gun is right for the current situation. I have been using Kirker single stage urethanes for a while and I like it. It's not as touchy as some other coatings to lay down. A lot of the older high VOC formulas are going the way of the ghost due to EPA regulations. Pretty soon you won't be able to buy a lot of paints over the counter anymore. You could lightly sand and buff after a long cure time, but the way the hood and other pieces are made, it would be difficult to make them look right around the gauge housings, inside corners and such without burning the paint. I think they look fine for a tractor, but I get how that would bother a guy in that it doesn't quite match the rest. It happens and sometimes you just have to let it go due to circumstances that can't be controlled. The tractor looks very nice to me, and I would be quite happy with how it looks.
Toby it’s been 30 plus years since I use Martin Senor acrylic enamel but I do remember that there was several choices of reducer based on the temperature you were painting in. Maybe adding additional reducer does the same thing when the temp is not in the correct range. Just a thought. That’s for bringing us along.
Yes, they still have 3 different reducers to use within different temp ranges, a slow dry, mid temp, and fast dry. I’ve got all of them 👍
Don't be too hard on yourself, but I know the feeling. We are our own harsh critic. The H looks great and you do a great job with your channel. Stumbled upon you a while back and now anticipate your next video. Keep it up!
A time lapse from start to finish of the building world be cool. Maybe leave your previous GoPro in a strategic spot and capture the transformation!
I bet you are exited the building is so close to starting after waiting so long for it to happen. Great time off year to do a job like that. Keeps the mess and damage to the ground around the place to a minimum. Good luck and i hope it goes smoothly. 👍🏻
It does sound like a case of the paint being old and needing more reducer to get it to the proper consistency to spray. It looks great in the video and if someone grumbles about a little orange peel then they are looking to close to find imperfections.
You can always start the painting process over again. Or just scuff everything and paint it all as assembled with a fresh batch of paint. Or just live with it I suppose. This is why I like my patina tractors. It doesn’t matter if the finishes match.
I’m right there with you - the older I get, the more I like rusty and faded old tractors lol 👍
When the building is done, you should do an episode about starting up and moving a bunch of your tractors into it. Maybe a little bit of a walk around on each one
We can complain all we want and the weather still does not cooperate.
Do what you do and we will be here cheering you on.
Thanks for sharing.
Good decision on the H! It still looks damn good!! I'm waiting for the building material delivery video! lol
Going to be a nice view from the new shed.
I have Army trucks. The nice thing about them is that if they were repainted in their life; then runs, drips and errors are "correct." Small parts (and sometimes entire vehicles) were often painted with a brush. It had to be green and it had to be done. It didn't have to be done well.
Squatch, FYI it will take at least 6 years before the paint goes off so it becomes un-usable. more likely the solvents had already evaporated, and as you stated you went overboard on the reducer in the second batch for it to flow smoothly. A hint from here in Australia, any good Automotive paint supplier can if they have a colour scanner should be able to make a very very close tint on the IH red for you, yes sadly that means a trek into the BIG SMOKE for you but it maybe worth it. never be sorry for what you may call a short clip, it still keeps us informed on the progress , regards Pete
Will there be a cement floor in the new building and if so, will you be laying plastic under the cement before poring? I have laid 6mil plastic under the floors in my basement and my barn and have never had any metal that has set on the floor rust leaving stains on the cement.
Here is the complete building overview episode that I uploaded a few weeks back, and yes the concrete floor will have moisture barrier put in under it - ruclips.net/video/yucmH9maTbs/видео.html
Congratulations on getting all the red sprayed! Sorry it’s not 100 percent like you would want it, but I’m sure it still looks really good.
I am convinced that as paint ages it does thicken, especially if the tin is part used, or has been opened. Also I I would say orange peel is caused by the paint being too thick to fully flow out. This said there is a fine balance between being too thick and too thin. If it is thin you will have annoying runs. If you are not happy you could leave it harden and flat it out and MOP it.
What was the weather today that was diff from the day when the fenders were sprayed? I ran the MS reducer when it was around 50* out and it laid out nice. I suspect on a warmer day and it would flash too quickly. If you have enough material you can wet sand & buff to get a glass like finish. That's what I do since I can never get my gun to lay the paint flat. Sad to hear if the PCC135IH is NLA. I liked that paint and it was convenient to buy premixed.
It was actually cooler that day than it was when I sprayed the fenders, with similar humidity. The only thing that must’ve changed is the consistency of the paint.
Good luck with the building! Bummer bout the paint. Can't win them all.
I have a few 5 gallon paint pails. With of different colors. The yellow is sure good paint paint a water trough and paint sprayed a trailer under coat then red.
That yellow is sur holding up on the trough after 34yrs.
Ran into that problem as well nla my local store because it didn't meet the new voc standards for our state
It looks very good, you may be able to wet sand with a very fine grit and buff it out.
Looks good to me for a tractor you’re going to use!
Coming from a former painter yeah your paint was a little old and you did the right thing by adding a little more reducer.
Paint is as you know finicky, and so much can change with temperature and humidity particularly when you are painting outside and not in a controlled environment. I've painted a couple of cars and a couple of boats,, my biggest struggle in south Georgia even with the slowest reducer possible when it's nearly 100° in my tarped off garage I ended up with a lot of orange peel in the clear.. it took a lot of elbow grease wet sanding and buffing too smooth it out. And right in the middle of the hood was a big spot for a big drop of sweat drippef off my face 😂
Paint looks good....looking forward to the build
Good episode Toby, thanks for sharing - can't wait to see the new bldg underway.
Looks great! Thanks for sharing!
Paint job looks great 👍
Do we see a Shop warming party in the future 😄
I can see the orange peel in the hood but it still looks better then any tractor I have ... we had our 520jd cosmetically restored several years ago and it has a light orange peel look to it too still parade worthy though
It could be a temperature thing, the warmer it is the smoother the paint will flow & lay down. The orange peel may smooth out a little with age too.
After the paint dries and hardens for sometime use a fast cut polish on it and the finish that you want can be worked out, just need a little elbow grease with it .
Looking forward to the building project!!
could you do a quick sand and re-coat of the visible surfaces? i think you should have enough paint to make it more pleasant to the eye.
That’s my plan now if I can’t find any more paint - but it’ll take a good 1 to 2 weeks for that paint to get hard enough to do any real sanding on 👍
😮 still excellent work done looking great can't wait the hear it up and going kno it will be a bit yet
A bit of wet sanding with an fine sandpaper followed by a clear coat will give you the results you want.
Hey Toby. The H is looking good. I can relate about the finish. I actually had a guy with paint booth spray my sheet metal. The bugs and dust was just too much in my shop. The job he did didn't turn out as well as I hoped for. But I went with it anyway. For one reason the sheet metal had a lot of pitting. And I just didn't take it to the level of using high build primer. Did you paint all the parts right there inside? Looking forward to seeing the new shop. Thanks
Toby, I did a local search for this paint and it appears that it is available at NAPA stores in Crescent, Oklahoma, Kingfisher, Oklahoma and Enid, OK. I hope this helps.
The trouble with Napa is that they won’t ship paint outside of the distribution area that it’s already in - so if I were already in those states it wouldn’t be a problem but getting it into MN can only be done if I go there and buy it, then transport it myself.
@@squatch253 OK, I wasn't aware of that. Great job on the restoration of this tractor.
You might want to consider a viscosity cup so you have a way to adjust the consistency.
The eye twitch is real! 😂 A Squatch mistake is another man’s raging success!
I think the paint looks just fine. a little character is just fine too.
Best of luck with the building!
As far as the Bork item, you might need to use the Kubota back hoe and the Super M to lift it, then it should be able to move it with easy. You might even need to do some sketchy stuff like he does.
Sometimes you eat the bear, sometimes the bear eats you. Not to worry, Toby. The sheet metal painting looks great.
Thanks for the building update and the video.
Squatch was teaching himself, and us, about "Wabi-Sabi". The Japanese art of finding the beauty in imperfections. Like you said, at the end of the day it's a tractor, and a work tractor at that. It's going to get used, going to get wear, going to get scratches and dings.
Hey Toby. Have you found a pedestal for X231 yet. If not, let us know if you would like for us to keep an eye out for one.
I’ve got one spoken for at the local tractor salvage yard, they’re just waiting for things to dry up some before going out to take it off - it’s been a very rainy summer here this year 👍
No apologies are ever necessary. You post it we'll watch it.
Let the paint cure,overspray with tinted clear,then wetsand. Modern clearcoats have UV protection,coating the full sheet metal as described will extend the shiny for extra years.
I remember in the 70s an experienced painter using the Mercedes recommended paint on a 220S. Turns out the owner had used a lot of silicon based care products that had penetrated deeply. Much nastiness and hate,with the vehicle owner being cagey about what he had actually done. Needed aviation stripper,down to bare metal,high build primer,an extra surfacer product I no longer remember,and only then could conventional techniques work. With all the chemistry changes now required,it really is going to be a crapshoot to obtain a straightforward solid colour paint job,to say nothing of the more sophisticated stuff.
I sure hope barn paint doesn't end up being the default choice,but this is the modern world after all..
All the best.
Nice job on the painting, Squatch.
On another note, what's your method to pre-lubricating a rebuilt engine before you attempt to run it?
Take the spark plugs out so there’s no compression, then crank the engine over until you see oil coming out up at the valve train 👍
I'm not a painter but have been witness to paint woes (parts store employee). The silliest things can ruin your day: deoderant, perfume, silicone, hairspray, bug spray, air temp, polution, your neighbors' recreation--and that is with an indoor paint booth. I am sorry that the functional parts got the pretty coating and the pretty parts got the functional coating. Still best paint the tractor ever had ;). With the machines you have on hand and the pickles you seem to find yourself in, you may want to invest in a high pressure and flow PTO driven hydraulic pump system and a large cylinder to move (former) friends' equipment when necessary.😊 I swear i heard a mosquito flying...
Third option: someday when you earn megabucks from youtube you get yourself indoor painting space whether that be a booth or curtained off space and paint there instead :P
I think you do great work on the job you do
Without a controlled environment, painting is always a roll of the Dice.
Even with a controlled environment painting is a roll of the dice! I am beyond amazed at what Squatch does, he would be downright scary good (if not so already) if he had a paint booth.
@@gregoryschmitz2131 I agree 100%. But Squatch shoots for the best in everything. That is what makes his channel great.
How about Rustoleum Farm Equipment paint in the future ? VanSickle has an MM paint and primer.
I’ve sprayed the Rustoleum before, and it’s a lot darker red than the Martin Senour.
Toby, you are way too hard on yourself. I think the paint finish looks fantastic.As it ages you won’t be able to see the very very slight orange peel at all. You are definitely a perfectionist. I enjoy all of your videos. Thanks
Burtch tractor store has the oem ih coil if you want to go that proper lol
The electronic ignition kit that I put in the distributor requires that special high voltage coil to work properly.
There must be other companies that can replicate the IH red. I knew when I lived in Connecticut there was a pain company in Norwich Connecticut, that dealt quite a bit an automotive paints. All you had to do was Bring a paint sample in, And they could replicate it.
I'm excited for what's in-store.
This year every crew I've heard of shows up early including my roofing crew. Evidently they aren't as busy as a usual year.
If the hydraulics on your tractor aren't strong enough to lift the culti-mulcher, are they strong enough to *hold* it up? Could you lift it with jacks, and then extend the road gear and have it stay up under whatever pressure you get?
Dunno, would a wet sand and clear coat over that fix it?
I second the motion to use the RD6 to shift the cultimulcher. It's been too long since we've heard it. Not sure how much of a challenge it would be. (Maybe getting it stopped once you get it going... 😂)
The RD6 has actually never been over to that property, due to having 1/4 mile of blacktop road between here and there, no good shoulders to drive it on, and too light of a trailer to haul it, unfortunately.
Would any of your larger crawler tractors pull that disk mulcher out of the way?
She’s gonna look better than new. 👍🏻
Blind man would be happy to see that paint job.
Can you possibly lightly sand the sheet metal and clear coat it for a smoother finish? I'm not a painter so I don't know if or how it would work out.
Ok, I did some digging. Martin Senour is made by Sherwin-Williams. I bet, if you went to one of their automotive finishes stores, they could hook you up.
Yep, I’m currently looking into a Sherwin Williams “PFC135IH” paint code that I’m hoping will be from the same formula - stay tuned! 👍
@@squatch253 oh, I will. I've been here since 5J1113 ep. 2.
The rock crusher in the background is saying “me next”
Good paint work, but I think that if you want everything to look the 'same' - you have to do it at the same time. Waiting weeks or months, the paint and atmospheric conditions are not the same. When your paint job looks as good or better than factory original is 'leave it alone'.
The old detached retina last August had other plans though, unfortunately 🤦🏻♂️
I’m here to watch paint dry.
Stressful day with the paint and paint gun fighting you. Orange peel will probably cure out a little before the paint sets up completely.
Red paint means reassembly to me. I've had to do with far less nice finishes. Looks good to me.
Paint looks fine even for having orange peeling looks awesome.
Rustoleum makes an international red. Have you looked at that? Would it match?
It’s much darker than this PCC135IH.