Just found this video. Thx for the info! Much preciated! Replaced crankshaft pulley on my Astra H 1.9 16v 120hp 3 times now. And all in only 50k km for 3 pulleys. It started knocking again. But with this knowledge now I'll check alternator and it's pulley first and tensioner. Sick and tired with these replacement parts, cause in 150k km it was on original parts, but replacement parts are awful. And also, will try Dayco pulley this time around, cause last 2 times it was put Concitech and it's kinda shit.
Very Interesting video explains the situation well I’ve just got a nasty vibration started at this end of my Renault scenic engine I know the drive belt and water pump are good they recently renewed my suspicions now fall on this pulley belt and associated tensioners etc the possibility of bits of shredded belt getting on the drive belt is quite scary that’s game over !
Replaced my pulley 3 times in 35k miles now will check the cause u mentioned. Also I think the underneath cover plastic / shield is completely gone, so the dirt and water coming from the tire (splashing on the pulley) could (possibly) cause the wear out too…
My alternator was tested to be fine. My main crankshaft pulley is wobbling. Im gonna change. You think a wobbly pulley can cause all my lights to flicker? Thanks
Thanks for the video! I have one question, I've replaced the crankshaft pulley about 40k kilometers back, it was torn apart just as you show. But now I'm hearing a knocking noise from that area that is correlated to the engine speed. I've removed the belt and the noise stopped, but I'm not sure if it's the tensioner or the pulley or something else in this section. It is a constant "clanking" noise. If i turn off the climate compressor, the noise remains, so it's probably the pulley or the tensioner (or maybe the alternator?). The tensioner is visibly vibrating a lot when idling. Do you have any thoughts? Thank you.
Hello. Thank you very much for watching my video. If the tensioner is vibrating at idle you must have a problem on the alternator pulley. Do not replace the tensioner just yet. Check first the alternator pulley. If it is locked, replace it. And consider replacing the hole unit.
Hello. Have a more detailed video for that. But if you replace the alternator pulley, the crankshaft pulley and the automatic tensioner yes, it will all be good. ruclips.net/video/G4hznCCsm34/видео.html
Hello. Have a more detailed video for that. But if you replace the alternator pulley, the crankshaft pulley and the automatic tensioner yes, it will all be good. ruclips.net/video/G4hznCCsm34/видео.html
Hello. Lots of ways to do it, removing the lower engine mount twists the engine enough to reach the alternator. Then to pass between the subframe and the engine you may have to undo the timming belt b side engine mount to create space to remove it completely. And of course, start by removing the exhaust. Hope it helps
Nice video i just subscribe ! On my 1.9 cdti my tensionser worn out and shred the aux belt, but i saw that the inner seal around the crankshaft pulley start to pump out a little, i guess it's more safe to change the crankshaft pulley too ?
Hello. Thanks for watching and for the subscription. I do not agree on replacing parts just because. I like to replace only the affected ones and find out the reason why it's happening. Like the alternator pulley the makes the crankshaft pulley "explode ". A crankshaft seal coming out can be a poor quality one, can be overpressure on the crack case, or it can be bits of old belt that cutted and spun the seal
Hello my crankshaft pulley is seized stuck on I've been able to remove the 4 bolts and normally with a few taps it falls off but on my girlfriend's it's stuck fast. It's due a timing belt and waterpump I've soaked it in wd40 but it refuses to budge. I've not removed the crackshaft pulley bolt but don't normally need to. Do you have any tips??? can I remove the main bolt and the inner pulley stay in place as it's not timming locked off yet
Hello. That is strange.. is the pulley a bad quality and rust welded to the inner pulley? Or someone used glue? Well, you can remove the center bolt, left thread by the way, but time the engine first. Because it will come out. You can try a puller. But I'm afraid the hole set may be compromised. Buy only dayco pulley and original timming belt inner pulley. No glues, just sinthetic grease. Respect the torque. Reply more news.
@@alfaromeonoproblem Hi thanks for speedy reply. No glue used I assure you as I installed the engine due to waterpump failure at 38k and 1 injector seized so was unable to inspect damage up top this was many years ago all attempts failed with pullers and refused to pay £150 to be removed with hydrolics anyway back to this pulley I installed replacement engine as once I priced it all up I could get complete engine much cheaper the engine is now from a Saab 93 1.9 Tid 150 bare engine with all other parts original I've just then tried the breaker bar jammed against floor at 90° and cranked it quick blips injectors unplugged and still won't budge is the Saab same left hand thread clockwise to loosen if so I'm lucky I didn't snap the bolt 🙈 I only wanted to crack it off to get rust free in center so I can replace pulley and lock engine with tool and finish job .
Yes, the engines are similar, the bolt is left. But the head is not has good. The valves are a bigger diameter on the guides, the quality ouverhall is better. You can use it, but it's not quite the same. Casting, general quality, etc. You best bet is to replace the timming gear all together
@@alfaromeonoproblem it's off I cut it off I was replacing the lot drive belt kit timming kit Inc WP SKF genuine from auto doc Germany thanks anyway mate pulley is dayco
I had no idea that the alternator pulley is supposed to freewheel in the opposite direction. Thanks for the info.
Thank you very much for watching my videos
@@alfaromeonoproblem They are great.
Just found this video. Thx for the info! Much preciated!
Replaced crankshaft pulley on my Astra H 1.9 16v 120hp 3 times now. And all in only 50k km for 3 pulleys.
It started knocking again. But with this knowledge now I'll check alternator and it's pulley first and tensioner.
Sick and tired with these replacement parts, cause in 150k km it was on original parts, but replacement parts are awful.
And also, will try Dayco pulley this time around, cause last 2 times it was put Concitech and it's kinda shit.
Hello. Thank you so much for watching! This month two more now videos are being released for this issue. Hope you are around to see them
@@alfaromeonoproblem I'll watch it closely. Thx for reply
Thank you
Makes total sense, buying one this weekend which has just had the pulley, belt and tensioner replaced but still on the same alternator...
Thanks for watching
Great video. Informative and careful in explanation. Really appreciate it!! All the best, brother.
Hello. A very early video of mine, very nervous and stumbled. But I'm glad you liked it! Hope I can continue to do good ones!
Very Interesting video explains the situation well I’ve just got a nasty vibration started at this end of my Renault scenic engine I know the drive belt and water pump are good they recently renewed my suspicions now fall on this pulley belt and associated tensioners etc the possibility of bits of shredded belt getting on the drive belt is quite scary that’s game over !
Thanks for sharing, and for watching the video
Replaced my pulley 3 times in 35k miles now will check the cause u mentioned.
Also I think the underneath cover plastic / shield is completely gone, so the dirt and water coming from the tire (splashing on the pulley) could (possibly) cause the wear out too…
Hello. Yes, check that. To avoid water and most I always recommend to keep the plastic guard on the side and beneath the engine
THANK YOU!!!! BIG THANK YOU!!! So so useful video! Just what I was wondering and needed as information!
Thank you very much! Share this with your friends
@@alfaromeonoproblem ofcourse!
I welded the pulley temporarily till the new one comes it workers perfectly better then before
My alternator was tested to be fine. My main crankshaft pulley is wobbling. Im gonna change. You think a wobbly pulley can cause all my lights to flicker? Thanks
Hello. No, it will not. The flickering is the alternator..
The pulley can wobble on the inside, it's fine. On the belt area cannot wobble.
@@alfaromeonoproblem ok thank you very much.
Thanks for watching
Will it bend the valves ? My one the auxiliary belt was vegged in the timing belt
Thanks for the video! I have one question, I've replaced the crankshaft pulley about 40k kilometers back, it was torn apart just as you show. But now I'm hearing a knocking noise from that area that is correlated to the engine speed. I've removed the belt and the noise stopped, but I'm not sure if it's the tensioner or the pulley or something else in this section. It is a constant "clanking" noise. If i turn off the climate compressor, the noise remains, so it's probably the pulley or the tensioner (or maybe the alternator?). The tensioner is visibly vibrating a lot when idling. Do you have any thoughts? Thank you.
Hello. Thank you very much for watching my video.
If the tensioner is vibrating at idle you must have a problem on the alternator pulley. Do not replace the tensioner just yet. Check first the alternator pulley. If it is locked, replace it. And consider replacing the hole unit.
I have a noise pulley and can’t find which one if I change all the pulleys and belt would that solve the problem can you let me know thanks
Hello. Have a more detailed video for that. But if you replace the alternator pulley, the crankshaft pulley and the automatic tensioner yes, it will all be good.
ruclips.net/video/G4hznCCsm34/видео.html
What if I changed all my pulleys and crankshaft pulley would the belt be quiet?
Hello. Have a more detailed video for that. But if you replace the alternator pulley, the crankshaft pulley and the automatic tensioner yes, it will all be good.
ruclips.net/video/G4hznCCsm34/видео.html
Can you do one video on 159 Jtdm 2.4 of the easiest way to change the alternator belt?
There is no easy way... Factory says to remove the engine. There is a way but it's very difficult. A video for some day
Excellent video the crankshaft pulley is €500 Euros from Alfa
And auto Doc 115 Euros
Buy DAYCO but do not buy autodoc
@@alfaromeonoproblem thank you , do I need to drop the Engine on my 159 jtdm 2.4 to change the timing belt ?
@BK-it6te hello. You can do it in place. Not easy, but you can
Do you have video for removing alternator alfa romeo 156 v6 engine? I really need it. Help me
Hello. Lots of ways to do it, removing the lower engine mount twists the engine enough to reach the alternator. Then to pass between the subframe and the engine you may have to undo the timming belt b side engine mount to create space to remove it completely. And of course, start by removing the exhaust. Hope it helps
Nice video i just subscribe !
On my 1.9 cdti my tensionser worn out and shred the aux belt, but i saw that the inner seal around the crankshaft pulley start to pump out a little, i guess it's more safe to change the crankshaft pulley too ?
Hello. Thanks for watching and for the subscription.
I do not agree on replacing parts just because. I like to replace only the affected ones and find out the reason why it's happening. Like the alternator pulley the makes the crankshaft pulley "explode ".
A crankshaft seal coming out can be a poor quality one, can be overpressure on the crack case, or it can be bits of old belt that cutted and spun the seal
@@alfaromeonoproblem
Ok thanks
Hello my crankshaft pulley is seized stuck on I've been able to remove the 4 bolts and normally with a few taps it falls off but on my girlfriend's it's stuck fast. It's due a timing belt and waterpump I've soaked it in wd40 but it refuses to budge. I've not removed the crackshaft pulley bolt but don't normally need to. Do you have any tips??? can I remove the main bolt and the inner pulley stay in place as it's not timming locked off yet
Hello. That is strange.. is the pulley a bad quality and rust welded to the inner pulley? Or someone used glue?
Well, you can remove the center bolt, left thread by the way, but time the engine first. Because it will come out. You can try a puller. But I'm afraid the hole set may be compromised.
Buy only dayco pulley and original timming belt inner pulley. No glues, just sinthetic grease. Respect the torque.
Reply more news.
@@alfaromeonoproblem Hi thanks for speedy reply. No glue used I assure you as I installed the engine due to waterpump failure at 38k and 1 injector seized so was unable to inspect damage up top this was many years ago all attempts failed with pullers and refused to pay £150 to be removed with hydrolics anyway back to this pulley I installed replacement engine as once I priced it all up I could get complete engine much cheaper the engine is now from a Saab 93 1.9 Tid 150 bare engine with all other parts original I've just then tried the breaker bar jammed against floor at 90° and cranked it quick blips injectors unplugged and still won't budge is the Saab same left hand thread clockwise to loosen if so I'm lucky I didn't snap the bolt 🙈 I only wanted to crack it off to get rust free in center so I can replace pulley and lock engine with tool and finish job .
Yes, the engines are similar, the bolt is left. But the head is not has good. The valves are a bigger diameter on the guides, the quality ouverhall is better. You can use it, but it's not quite the same. Casting, general quality, etc.
You best bet is to replace the timming gear all together
@@alfaromeonoproblem it's off I cut it off I was replacing the lot drive belt kit timming kit Inc WP SKF genuine from auto doc Germany thanks anyway mate pulley is dayco
Ok. Thanks for the reply.
Would this cause the belt to melt off?
Something seized
I will arc weld the crankshaft auxiliary pulley till I get the new part
What we do without you ,
I just try my best
Cars with timing belts are terrifying
Ever seen a truck belt? Those ones take out a lim