I am a mechanic, and I own a couple matchless g3l’s, and am now looking for a g80 for a trials project. watching this was really informative and I look up to your talent and skill, thank you. We are never too old to learn and the best way is from the experts like yourself.
Hello Dick you have great channel with lots of clear videos. I am up in British Columbia and have a 1948 16M. Following your video on assembling this engine you show how to check for piston clearance to cylinder head and valves. I performed this task and found clearance of 3/8 to 7/16 and would assume this to be too much. I know there are books with specs out there but unknown to me can you advise please?
The head bolts fitted into recesses which you machined off. I wonder why Matchless bothered with that machining step? Dunno if that was just the camera though.
Really good technique, method and build. Obviously a master at work. I also noticed that all the tools and equipment used were top quality, also the parts. What was your occupation before you became a RUclips guru, if you don't mind me asking.
I am a retired auto technician and an amateur model engineer. I would have guessed you were in engineering. You have lots of skills and equipment. Lots of good tips, including releasing torque wrench after use. I have really enjoyed all your videos.
Dick... I see you fitted a JP piston. There is talk on the owners club forum that they are appreciably heavier than the original hepolites and can cause the engine to run out of balance. Did you have any such issues?
Dick... When you torqued the head down, did you lubricate the bolt threads? I would imagine it makes a difference to the tension in the bolt if the thread is lubricated or not. I've never known whether it's best to or not.
Hi Russell, good question. Torque table generally direct you to reduce the torque if the fastener is lubricated. I always assume the fastener IS lubricated, and rarely if ever reduce the torque value. However, I'm not building a RollsRoyce aircraft engine. My torque wrench are not calibrated, and almost nothing in this life is that critical. Certainly not on this old Brit dinosaur. I believe the most important factor is uniform torque on all headbolts and as close to the specified value as your equipment will allow. Using a fish scale is better than guessing. Stay safe, RideNut
Great video, very nice to see your quality work. From were do you get all these tolerances? Or is just everything by lifelong experience? Waiting for more vids about the Burman b52! Thank you /Robert
Thank you Robert, when available, I use tolerances supplied by the manufacturer. IN the case of the AJS/Matchless G3L (350cc) or its bigger brother G80 (500) I frequently refer to a 1953 publication from the British Army who produced and shared a set of standards for rebuilding the motorcycle. It is a very handy document. Best wishes, Dick Casey
@@TheRideNut I see, im currently rebuilding my -54 18S and I saw your tip about the 4-6 bs210 orings for the pushrod-tunnels! Im will actually test that today as I have found it hard to keep it leakless with the regular rubber-oring(s). Also your tip about the primary caseing was a lifesaver👍 i did glue on some felt, and it did work! - very greatful for that (as I've tried almost anything sofar.) That army document seems very interesting thou, is it officially published on the net? Or is it hard to come by.. I do have the AJS/Matchless rep/maint manuals. Thank you again.
By hand, it is easy, and I'm a small person, 5'7" 140 lbs. Put the spring retainer and two collets on the valve. Hook the bottom spring under the retainer, with strong finger pressure fold spring legs up, and slide onto the spring seat on the head. Install 2nd spring. The trick is put the retainer on the valve first.
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I am a mechanic, and I own a couple matchless g3l’s, and am now looking for a g80 for a trials project. watching this was really informative and I look up to your talent and skill, thank you. We are never too old to learn and the best way is from the experts like yourself.
Never too old!!! I'm still a kid. The 1946 Bitza Bobber and me started about the same time. I'm a 1945 production.
Great video; nice to see things still done properly and with care.
Thank you Mystic...
Wonderful to see an expert at work
Expert??? Not me. Just a hard working boy trying to do good... Thanks for your comment.
The alloy cylinder head was introduced in September 1950 for the 51 season. Good video.
Some great tips in there, I'll watch again before opening up my M16 engine!
Thanks sam. Rule One. Do no harm to the Patient!
"Do No Harm" is always a good principle. Please have a spares list and workshop manual open, and nearby..... and a pencil and paper. Make notes! DC
Fantastic work, great video, great to see how you got to the finished bike!
Thank you Ryan!
Thanks for the video. I'm about to start a G80 project. Very useful.
Thank you Matt. Best wishes on your G80...
Lovely work .. impressive 👍👍
Good work
Thank you, I appreciate your comment!
Hello Dick you have great channel with lots of clear videos. I am up in British Columbia and have a 1948 16M. Following your video on assembling this engine you show how to check for piston clearance to cylinder head and valves. I performed this task and found clearance of 3/8 to 7/16 and would assume this to be too much. I know there are books with specs out there but unknown to me can you advise please?
You can see and witness Mr. Dick Casey Merlin. Master Service!
Ringraziamento Sr. Gobbo
It's like watching a silent movie ;-)
Its not totally silent... occasionally I drop a tool or some other "screw-up". Thanks for watching!
You and I went to the same school. My only suggestion is you’re wasting 2/3rds of that 518. Very solid work.👍🏼
I'm pleased you enjoyed the video! DC
A really good video.
Thanks Dave. I'm pleased that you liked it!
The head bolts fitted into recesses which you machined off. I wonder why Matchless bothered with that machining step? Dunno if that was just the camera though.
So good
Thank You Chris!
thank you master for your video ¡
Thank you Leonel!
Hi sir can you share ajs timeing wheel adjustment manual or video
Really good technique, method and build. Obviously a master at work. I also noticed that all the tools and equipment used were top quality, also the parts. What was your occupation before you became a RUclips guru, if you don't mind me asking.
Hi Keith, I sold precision measuring equipment in Aerospace and computer chip manufacturing.
I am a retired auto technician and an amateur model engineer. I would have guessed you were in engineering. You have lots of skills and equipment. Lots of good tips, including releasing torque wrench after use. I have really enjoyed all your videos.
Dick... I see you fitted a JP piston. There is talk on the owners club forum that they are appreciably heavier than the original hepolites and can cause the engine to run out of balance. Did you have any such issues?
Hi sir are +.10 size pistons available ??
Hi Melbin, not that I know of. Sizes usually advanced my 1mm or sometimes 1/2mm.
Thanks for looking at my videos. DC
@@TheRideNut pleasure is mine
Hi there caesy , i have people saying there is no need of gasket while using an castiron cylinder head? Pls throw some light on this!!! Plss.
Dick... When you torqued the head down, did you lubricate the bolt threads? I would imagine it makes a difference to the tension in the bolt if the thread is lubricated or not. I've never known whether it's best to or not.
Hi Russell, good question. Torque table generally direct you to reduce the torque if the fastener is lubricated. I always assume the fastener IS lubricated, and rarely if ever reduce the torque value. However, I'm not building a RollsRoyce aircraft engine. My torque wrench are not calibrated, and almost nothing in this life is that critical. Certainly not on this old Brit dinosaur.
I believe the most important factor is uniform torque on all headbolts and as close to the specified value as your equipment will allow.
Using a fish scale is better than guessing. Stay safe, RideNut
Great video, very nice to see your quality work.
From were do you get all these tolerances? Or is just everything by lifelong experience?
Waiting for more vids about the Burman b52!
Thank you
/Robert
Thank you Robert, when available, I use tolerances supplied by the manufacturer. IN the case of the AJS/Matchless G3L (350cc) or its bigger brother G80 (500) I frequently refer to a 1953 publication from the British Army who produced and shared a set of standards for rebuilding the motorcycle. It is a very handy document. Best wishes, Dick Casey
@@TheRideNut
I see, im currently rebuilding my -54 18S and I saw your tip about the 4-6 bs210 orings for the pushrod-tunnels! Im will actually test that today as I have found it hard to keep it leakless with the regular rubber-oring(s).
Also your tip about the primary caseing was a lifesaver👍 i did glue on some felt, and it did work! - very greatful for that (as I've tried almost anything sofar.)
That army document seems very interesting thou, is it officially published on the net? Or is it hard to come by.. I do have the AJS/Matchless rep/maint manuals.
Thank you again.
Interesting, how to you fit the valve springs?
By hand, it is easy, and I'm a small person, 5'7" 140 lbs. Put the spring retainer and two collets on the valve. Hook the bottom spring under the retainer, with strong finger pressure fold spring legs up, and slide onto the spring seat on the head. Install 2nd spring. The trick is put the retainer on the valve first.
Thank you
Hi sir nice video ,Did you honed the cylinder ?
Thank you Mr. Thomas. Yes. The cylinder was freshly bored to match the size of a new piston, and as part of this machine work, the cylinder was honed.
I would like to purchase the Bitsa Bobba. Contact me
Sorry Brian, the Bitza Bobber has been sold