Hey man love the vids been watching forever. I’m a boat builder in the northeast and knowing that fiberglass isn’t your cup of tea necessarily watching you work with it makes me cringe a little so here are some tips. If you want a tack free surface (add wax to the resin) regular fiberglass resin is called laminating resin. Which remains tacky in order to avoid having to sand in between layers. Secondly, never make your last layer a woven layer. Woven cloth needs all its strands to have its strength. Once you sand you break the strands and lose the majority if not all of its strength. In your case (the bumper) the best thing for you to have done would to be add first a layer of chop. (Maybe 1.50oz) followed by 2 layers of woven (for your main strength) followed by 1 or 2 (depending on how neat you were with the cloth) layers of chop on top. The final layers of chop are called (burner layers) they are simply there to help you sand and smooth it out after the fact while it still remains the same strength being you havent cut into your woven underneath. Third if you are having issues with it drying ADD more MEK. On a hull of a boat where strength is absolutely crucial for the safety of others i of course would not do this. But for small detail work if you add a few extra cc’s of MEK you can get resin to dry tack free in 10-15min even if it’s 50 degrees out. Your working time shortens but move quickly and get it done it’ll save you a boat load of standing around waiting.
Asking for a little advice or confirmation from someone in the business, my first fiberglass project was a full car headliner, I used polyester resin in August in Texas. I have since done some more poly and some epoxies on different projects, consequently I don't feel like I could ever work fast enough to properly bag a polyester project. Am I mistaken or just doing it wrong ? About the longest I have ever stretched a mix of poly is + or- 20 Minutes.
Agreed. He always has these projects where there's a year worth of work and tries to do it in a month. He has really cool ideas but the crew gets so exhausted the quality always suffers. If it's truly his dream car he plans to keep forever then make it a sema 2024 project and take alot more time to dial in the details and make them perfect. It makes me exhausted just watching how last minute they push everything.
Here is the problem with that - the internet gets bored. It's Chris's job not to let the internet get bored. So that means quick, satisfying content. Not a 26 part series posted every other week on the same SEMA car.
@@TheBCninjaright like there’s obviously some intention behind his strategy and it gives us one additional reason to watch to the end bc it’s now part of what had our interest ‘will he finish on time!?!’ And also where’s the fun in not doing insane last second builds, shit gas monkey did the same shit now that I think of it…
It’s almost as if the majority of the issues you run into with custom parts and parts in general could be solved with starting builds sooner and more planning before hand.
I hate that they don’t plan, because it causes them to cheap out on the build and to poorly construct the car. Don’t get me wrong it looks good but it feels like it taped and zipped together
You could do that and than perfectionism strikes and time will be scarce again. That's normal. Work will always stretch to the the amount of time available....
@@tyreeross81 Its why this channel will never be great. Everyone at sema with over 4 weeks of fab experience is seeing what you are. Why does this channel always construct rushed garbage for sema? Oooof.
Concept for next SEMA build: Start early (like right after this SEMA), and work on it in the background. Engage guest builders/experts on various aspects ahead of time. Do the normal build stuff throughout the year to pay the bills, while keeping steady progress on the SEMA car. Keep it a secret and release it all a few weeks before next SEMA as if it was a big dramatic crunch session. You have such great ideas, I think a lot of people, including myself would love to see your SEMA builds given the time the really great ideas deserve.
Hey to get the fiberglass to stick is to sand down the plastic with aggressive grit 40-60. And also drill holes into the plastic around the edges. Will hold fantastic. 🤙🏽also never use fiberglass resin, always use epoxy resin for skinning over Ed printed parts.
As someone who used to work in a custom/restoration shops as a painter/body man I know the crunch to sema. You guys really should use guide coat and tape and block sand for your body lines. And don't use a DA on body work. I know your rushing to get it done. I'd love to see you guys really take your time on a build. Have some pros come and teach you guys so techniques for body work. You guys have the drive to build some awsome cars. Learning is always good.
Whatever you're paying Oscar - it's not enough! And a cameo appearance from Chelsea - she's definitely a keeper! Stunning car. Can't wait to see it all in colour.
Год назад+2
You do realize that Chris and Chelsea are married, right? 😅
the transformation from how the car looked in the halfway point of this video to the end result is just so insane. don’t know how yall do it. excited for paint!
For mold supplies and other composites, go to the TAP plastic. They have 2 PDX locations, and they stock everything you might want for working with fiberglass or carbon fiber.
THIS. I know TAP isn’t the cheapest, but they’re right in town, their fiberglass resins work really well (I’ve done a bunch of projects with TAP stuff), the people are knowledgeable, and they have all of the supplies, consumables, and tools you need for resin work right there in store.
Amazing seeing it all come together, from all the custom bits, filling and shaping to one final smooth look. Very impressive. All the years of experience showing now.
In the future does it make sense to print the “mold” for the bumper? Then instead of laying the fibre glass on the print you could lay it in the print and reinforce from the inside?
I think they mean to make a PLA or PETG mould for the fibreglass and then remove the fiberglass part from the mould. The surface of the fiberglass is going to be worked smooth anyway, so 3D print finish isn't too important. There will also be a release layer interface otherwise the fiberglass would bond to the printed mould.
ruclips.net/video/KpJdwryFj6k/видео.html You absolutely can. You would sand then coat the print for a smooth finish. In this case it probably have been easier and quicker, as the mold won't have overhangs or supports. They can print it in one or very few pieces.
Looks great guys! As an autobody technician with a focus in fiberglass repair and shaping surfboards, when you did 3 layers I was saying “that’s not enough!” Love what you guys are doing, wish I was there to help!
Although im just a student in autobody, seeing you guys not using guide coat to help sand the bumper hurt me. Im sure it turned out fine, I'm surprised on how good the end product came out, good shit dude!
Learning they're is nothing wrong with doing it every step to help you understand what your doing when your blocking a panel , but in the real world it will just slow you down and add unnecessary work
@@joeysweet9045it is actually to make sure your area is straight, you can guide coat and fill and block that bumper all day but it's fiberglass unfortunately it's going to be wavey as soon as it sees some heat and sun
Next time, drill small holes in the plastic, and sand the surface with 60/80 grit. The resin will get in there and will create mechanical adherence, or you can use a plastic adhesion promotion primer before applying the resin. I always use both techniques together, and never had any issues. Also, I usually use weave fiberglass in the middle, and sandwich it with stranded fiberglass.
That chopped sheet of fiberglass is what I used to repair high dollar boats and 3 layers of the sheet is enough to make like a ⅜ inch thick hull. The triaxial sheets are even stronger and more rigid and work well. If you buy metal rollers you can forces the thick sheet into tight corners. The resin could have reacted with the catalyst too quickly before it was mixed. This happened to me when I tried to use less hardner to give me more time using it but it causes the resin to harden and not get thoroughly mixed into all the resin.
I'm no expert by any means. But have worked with fiberglass a ton. It looks like a polyester resin they used, I'm thinking they simply didn't use enough catalyst. Bondo resin sucks compared to like total boat. But the long cure time tells me it was a catalyst problem. It must be adjusted for desired working time and weather conditions. If it's below 70 and they tried to stretch the working time, it'll lead to all those problems.
@@bryp88 I agree the bondo resin does suck. Much more of a pain to use. Polyester was always what we used on boats. Can't remember the exact brand unfortunately.
Chris, you and your team, IMHO, are the hardest working individuals on RUclips! I think you "thrive" in pressure situations and that is why you never give yourself enough time on your SEMA builds. It does add a bit of "excitement" for sure. Hope you make it again this year! I'm certain you will. The build looks awesome to me.
You guys never fail to amaze with what you get done in your small shop. Bigger shops with more people power and state-of-the art equipment can't hold a candle to B is for Build!
I'm here since you build your first Rocketbunny BRZ and I'm so happy that the style and love of all your projects remains the same over all those years. Wisch you guys all the best for your SEMA build, you got this ❤❤❤ . Gratings from germany ✌
Y’all be building the mustangs I want in my life! You hiring? Lol and man Oscar is a mad fabricator, some of those curves and weird angles are crazy to see formed from scratch!
@@BisforBuildNext time your doing some Fibre glass work contact Fibre glass develoent in Greenville ohio really good products for fair prices and some of the most knowledgeable guys I know of to talk to before a project used them for all kinds ofjobs from boat repairs to body kits they are who helped make the Carbon Fibre Viper plus I'm thinking you needed green epoxy resin not polyurethane resin if you reinforced the back side of the bumper with high density red expansion foam and did your Fibre glass over top of it it would of been way stronger than overlaying the top of it
It’s so crazy to think how meaningful this car build has been to finally be able to finish the car. Shes making great content. I can’t wait to see this ripping in eventually smooth, comfortable complete form amazing
*Some guys are using CNC machines to cut foam and make disposable molds for custom body parts, you may want to give that a try, from what I understand cutting the foam on a CNC is a lot quicker than 3D printing a part for a mold*
@@mannydays2594To be more specific, you use a typical X/Y router with a longer than normal Z axis. You wouldn’t use a full mill for foam cutting. It’s pretty common and cheap, but the printer they have can be much faster if someone experienced in large format printing gave them a hand and some training. At that kind of build volume, you really want to be doing pellet extrusion which has much higher flow rates than a filament extruder can manage. Surface finish will suffer at the larger nozzles, but they’re sanding, filling, and fiberglassing anyway, so they don’t need or want a perfectly smooth printed finish.
I feel like you guys thrive on all the stress of these builds. I'm really stoked for this build. Thanks for the time and effort you all put into these cars!
You guys always make it look so easy. Now you had some trouble and this took some time. But still have a design that works and looks like you make the deadline as well. Only thing I would like to say is that you are true builders. Peace!
Hopeful sparing life, for next years SEMA you can refresh all your SEMA builds fix any issues and bring them all because you do really have some awesome builds!
This build has been amazing. The amount of work you guys did in this episode is incredible. Thank god for Oscar, and Kyle. We probably don't get to see this if they weren't there. Maybe start the next one a little earlier next time!
Fiberglass that cures at different speeds usually wasn't fully mixed OR it got cold and stayed out. I've had to wait 2 days before to cure thick sections on boat transoms in cold/damp shops. It does cure but a heat source will activate it quickly if an area is lagging behind. Looks great!
I explained it in the comments in the last episode. Basically we werent planning on doing a sema build. Last minute we were offered a spot, I had a build in mind i knew we could do if we worked hard. And here we are!
Seriously you guys do incredible work. The grill is absolutely gorgeous. I like that. It’s not just straight across flat. Also the wheel position truly looks natural now. Wonderful work. Also shout out to Oscar. You got a guy here that is just remarkable for sure.
Hey, when adhering carbon fiber or fiberglass to anything it needs to be sanded with like 60 grit. Prob already know that. Additionally the material will be more rigid if you sandwich it. Fiberglass, nyglass (or similar), fiberglass. This creates an “I beam”. I’m certified in prosthetic fabrication. I do it every day.
When doing fiberglass chop-mat, I like to "pull" it apart to male my pieces versus cutting it with scissors. The edge then is jagged and seems to mesh better with the piece next to it. No hard cut lines. Just a suggestion
Love how this channel shows people you dont need snap on tools or an lz compound to build rad stuff. Just need to get after it, harbor freight tools work just as well
It almost feels like you went from a BRZ channel to a Mustang channel with the builds. This one is almost as incredible as the mid engine mustang and can't wait to see the next big build
You guys are literal artists!! It's so amazing and inspiring. You took what seemed impossible to do and made it possible. I love you guys and your videos
Using hard urethane foam is the light way to get rigidity. Schedule 80 PVC pipe heat to shape and glass it in will give you ridigity and a hard point to attach stuff to. Your plastic parts, you wi have to use an "adhesion promoter" then paint before glassing then it will stick. Hire 5 guys to sand each 1/4 after you spray high build filler primer. Great work B team
Plan "E" is for "Everyone helps." Nice to see Chelsea in the build sanding fender. 😊 I have 2 little girls and encourage them to help with my projects as much as they can.
Dude respect for doing the build on such a time crunch and still putting out Fantastic content to to keep us updated on every stage of the build. Thank you and I'm excited for the outcome of the paint and interior. I dream of a project like this.
I think it’ll be cool to see Chris design all the parts for a car, bumpers, air, dams, intakes, fender, flares any arrow pieces, and then provide those files for people with 3-D printers to print a piece of it, and send him the part and then it can be assembled into larger final assemblies with the efforts of all those out there sending pieces. A crowd sourced effort.
Looks good really coming along nice. I like the idea of taking a newer chassis and putting an old style body on it. I would have like to have seen the exhaust come through the rear valance
Acetone wipes can help get rid of a lot of that tackiness left over from the resin. I've used that trick a few times working on some fiberglass speaker boxes in the past.
💥 wtplay.link/bisforbuild - Download War Thunder for FREE and get your bonus!
I started watching B is for Build since the Mustang build and I haven't missed an episode. Can you guess which mustang build?
Do I get free classified documents too?
Next year bring in weird beard to help with the body work
you called this part 5. theres already a part 5
Is war Thunder another hair loss product ? 😂
I think you all need to pivot the camper and turn it into a mobile fabrication shop so you guys can keep making parts on the way to each year’s SEMA
Or just start earlier.
😂😂
@@adamberning3122😮
Or just start sooner in the year 😂
@@adamberning3122Fr homie procrastinates lol
Oscar is absolutely a metal magician. Kudos for a great job Oscar.
It’s pronounced Oscar
I agree. And the amount of work they all do under pressure is incredible.
It never gets old seeing him create something from scrap pieces of cardboard, tape and sheet metal.
Without Oscar this channel wouldn’t be, hope he has very generous pay
@@HarryCrackz he builds rockets for Hamas
Hey man love the vids been watching forever. I’m a boat builder in the northeast and knowing that fiberglass isn’t your cup of tea necessarily watching you work with it makes me cringe a little so here are some tips.
If you want a tack free surface (add wax to the resin) regular fiberglass resin is called laminating resin. Which remains tacky in order to avoid having to sand in between layers.
Secondly, never make your last layer a woven layer. Woven cloth needs all its strands to have its strength. Once you sand you break the strands and lose the majority if not all of its strength. In your case (the bumper) the best thing for you to have done would to be add first a layer of chop. (Maybe 1.50oz) followed by 2 layers of woven (for your main strength) followed by 1 or 2 (depending on how neat you were with the cloth) layers of chop on top. The final layers of chop are called (burner layers) they are simply there to help you sand and smooth it out after the fact while it still remains the same strength being you havent cut into your woven underneath.
Third if you are having issues with it drying ADD more MEK. On a hull of a boat where strength is absolutely crucial for the safety of others i of course would not do this. But for small detail work if you add a few extra cc’s of MEK you can get resin to dry tack free in 10-15min even if it’s 50 degrees out. Your working time shortens but move quickly and get it done it’ll save you a boat load of standing around waiting.
Asking for a little advice or confirmation from someone in the business, my first fiberglass project was a full car headliner, I used polyester resin in August in Texas. I have since done some more poly and some epoxies on different projects, consequently I don't feel like I could ever work fast enough to properly bag a polyester project. Am I mistaken or just doing it wrong ? About the longest I have ever stretched a mix of poly is + or- 20 Minutes.
Maybe you would do well to start the next SEMA project the following day SEMA ends. You _might_ do better with time management lol
Just imagine how well all the finish work would be
@@alexelrod242 Yeah last years build looked pretty sick under pressure. I can only imagine one done meticulously...
Agreed. He always has these projects where there's a year worth of work and tries to do it in a month. He has really cool ideas but the crew gets so exhausted the quality always suffers. If it's truly his dream car he plans to keep forever then make it a sema 2024 project and take alot more time to dial in the details and make them perfect. It makes me exhausted just watching how last minute they push everything.
Here is the problem with that - the internet gets bored. It's Chris's job not to let the internet get bored. So that means quick, satisfying content. Not a 26 part series posted every other week on the same SEMA car.
@@TheBCninjaright like there’s obviously some intention behind his strategy and it gives us one additional reason to watch to the end bc it’s now part of what had our interest ‘will he finish on time!?!’ And also where’s the fun in not doing insane last second builds, shit gas monkey did the same shit now that I think of it…
It’s almost as if the majority of the issues you run into with custom parts and parts in general could be solved with starting builds sooner and more planning before hand.
Where's the fun in that? it adds to the drama. I do see what youre saying though, wish they would revisit old builts and improve them.
I hate that they don’t plan, because it causes them to cheap out on the build and to poorly construct the car. Don’t get me wrong it looks good but it feels like it taped and zipped together
Stretching the timeline as much as possible is the B is for Build way! Where is the fun in not doing that! 🤣🤣
You could do that and than perfectionism strikes and time will be scarce again. That's normal. Work will always stretch to the the amount of time available....
@@tyreeross81 Its why this channel will never be great. Everyone at sema with over 4 weeks of fab experience is seeing what you are. Why does this channel always construct rushed garbage for sema? Oooof.
Concept for next SEMA build:
Start early (like right after this SEMA), and work on it in the background. Engage guest builders/experts on various aspects ahead of time.
Do the normal build stuff throughout the year to pay the bills, while keeping steady progress on the SEMA car.
Keep it a secret and release it all a few weeks before next SEMA as if it was a big dramatic crunch session.
You have such great ideas, I think a lot of people, including myself would love to see your SEMA builds given the time the really great ideas deserve.
Jokes on you, they built this car during covid 3 years ago and are pretending to rush for SEMA 2023.
Haha, that would be quite the reveal!@@IAintScaredOfNoGhost
I hope Kyle and Oscar get a decent bonus this year. the guys have been putting in work like rented mules on this build.
Hey to get the fiberglass to stick is to sand down the plastic with aggressive grit 40-60. And also drill holes into the plastic around the edges. Will hold fantastic. 🤙🏽also never use fiberglass resin, always use epoxy resin for skinning over Ed printed parts.
As someone who used to work in a custom/restoration shops as a painter/body man I know the crunch to sema. You guys really should use guide coat and tape and block sand for your body lines. And don't use a DA on body work. I know your rushing to get it done. I'd love to see you guys really take your time on a build. Have some pros come and teach you guys so techniques for body work. You guys have the drive to build some awsome cars. Learning is always good.
I was shocked to not see a single block and everything finished with an orbital sander
It was making my eye twitch 😅
@@brodiecartwright
i was thinking the same thing all video. A DA is for roughing in and that's it
@@bobert972 that or strîpping material lol
Whatever you're paying Oscar - it's not enough!
And a cameo appearance from Chelsea - she's definitely a keeper!
Stunning car. Can't wait to see it all in colour.
You do realize that Chris and Chelsea are married, right? 😅
@I didn't, but I do now!
@ mean... it just reinforces that she's a keeper lol
You’re killing it brother!!!
Mad props to Oscar.
You guys are doing so much work in short time!
Long time watcher here over 6 yrs 👍👍👍
the transformation from how the car looked in the halfway point of this video to the end result is just so insane. don’t know how yall do it. excited for paint!
i can't imagine how you're going to paint this and instal an interior in the time left. Can't wait to see how you pull this off.
with coffee and no sleep for sure. 🤣
The Datsun build convinced me that @BisforBuild is able to do whatever he puts his mind to do! PERIOD.
The SEMA pressure creates miracles!
You folks are amazing. Oscar is a magician. Your 3d modeling skills are supreme. Love to see her when she's done.
Absolutely insane. Love the headlight buckets. Even with the time running out you make it seem easy
For mold supplies and other composites, go to the TAP plastic. They have 2 PDX locations, and they stock everything you might want for working with fiberglass or carbon fiber.
THIS. I know TAP isn’t the cheapest, but they’re right in town, their fiberglass resins work really well (I’ve done a bunch of projects with TAP stuff), the people are knowledgeable, and they have all of the supplies, consumables, and tools you need for resin work right there in store.
Amazing seeing it all come together, from all the custom bits, filling and shaping to one final smooth look. Very impressive. All the years of experience showing now.
In the future does it make sense to print the “mold” for the bumper? Then instead of laying the fibre glass on the print you could lay it in the print and reinforce from the inside?
truth I work with pla in the racing industry and it is fragile af. we use it for first casting only @@greatestevar
I think they mean to make a PLA or PETG mould for the fibreglass and then remove the fiberglass part from the mould. The surface of the fiberglass is going to be worked smooth anyway, so 3D print finish isn't too important. There will also be a release layer interface otherwise the fiberglass would bond to the printed mould.
ruclips.net/video/KpJdwryFj6k/видео.html
You absolutely can. You would sand then coat the print for a smooth finish.
In this case it probably have been easier and quicker, as the mold won't have overhangs or supports. They can print it in one or very few pieces.
seems like a better way to do it since the front is gonna get smoothed out anyway
Looks great guys! As an autobody technician with a focus in fiberglass repair and shaping surfboards, when you did 3 layers I was saying “that’s not enough!” Love what you guys are doing, wish I was there to help!
Although im just a student in autobody, seeing you guys not using guide coat to help sand the bumper hurt me. Im sure it turned out fine, I'm surprised on how good the end product came out, good shit dude!
we did use it a few times, but youre right we should use it more. We still have a ton to learn.
Guide coat is for your final sand , not every step of the way
@mikehenderson8122 right it's for the final step so you don't sand to much and make dips in the bondo or fiberglass
Learning they're is nothing wrong with doing it every step to help you understand what your doing when your blocking a panel , but in the real world it will just slow you down and add unnecessary work
@@joeysweet9045it is actually to make sure your area is straight, you can guide coat and fill and block that bumper all day but it's fiberglass unfortunately it's going to be wavey as soon as it sees some heat and sun
I have to say , watching this build unfold is Epic ! After the widebody , it's still EPIC . AND I LOVE THAT BUMPER !
The red model looks so awesome
It's gorgeous. I'm sure the black will look great too, but man! It's a shame they aren't going with the red.
@@HarryCrackz the black will look more menacing and is probably easier to do in such short time but that red would have been a real head turner
The lack of confusion and arguments shows you are a really good project manager Chris. Either that or a good editor! :D
Great to see Chelsea steppin in to power this out. Looking great and I love the render you did.
Next time, drill small holes in the plastic, and sand the surface with 60/80 grit. The resin will get in there and will create mechanical adherence, or you can use a plastic adhesion promotion primer before applying the resin. I always use both techniques together, and never had any issues. Also, I usually use weave fiberglass in the middle, and sandwich it with stranded fiberglass.
That chopped sheet of fiberglass is what I used to repair high dollar boats and 3 layers of the sheet is enough to make like a ⅜ inch thick hull. The triaxial sheets are even stronger and more rigid and work well. If you buy metal rollers you can forces the thick sheet into tight corners. The resin could have reacted with the catalyst too quickly before it was mixed. This happened to me when I tried to use less hardner to give me more time using it but it causes the resin to harden and not get thoroughly mixed into all the resin.
I'm no expert by any means. But have worked with fiberglass a ton. It looks like a polyester resin they used, I'm thinking they simply didn't use enough catalyst. Bondo resin sucks compared to like total boat. But the long cure time tells me it was a catalyst problem. It must be adjusted for desired working time and weather conditions. If it's below 70 and they tried to stretch the working time, it'll lead to all those problems.
@@bryp88 I agree the bondo resin does suck. Much more of a pain to use. Polyester was always what we used on boats. Can't remember the exact brand unfortunately.
Chris, you and your team, IMHO, are the hardest working individuals on RUclips! I think you "thrive" in pressure situations and that is why you never give yourself enough time on your SEMA builds. It does add a bit of "excitement" for sure. Hope you make it again this year! I'm certain you will. The build looks awesome to me.
I’ve been waiting for this episode! Very excited to see the 3d print to part process
You guys never fail to amaze with what you get done in your small shop. Bigger shops with more people power and state-of-the art equipment can't hold a candle to B is for Build!
When Oscar gets out the cardboard, it’s getting real! Great work as always!
I'm here since you build your first Rocketbunny BRZ and I'm so happy that the style and love of all your projects remains the same over all those years. Wisch you guys all the best for your SEMA build, you got this ❤❤❤ . Gratings from germany ✌
Y’all be building the mustangs I want in my life! You hiring? Lol and man Oscar is a mad fabricator, some of those curves and weird angles are crazy to see formed from scratch!
As usual I'm completely blown away by what you guys are able to pull off. I can't WAIT to see this thing finished.
I was supposed to go to sleep, buuuuut naaah. BIFB is the priority
lol me too :p
@@BisforBuildme too but im GMT 1.38am
same here, mustang is soo sick, got lecture at 10:00 but mustang is king
@@BisforBuildNext time your doing some Fibre glass work contact Fibre glass develoent in Greenville ohio really good products for fair prices and some of the most knowledgeable guys I know of to talk to before a project used them for all kinds ofjobs from boat repairs to body kits they are who helped make the Carbon Fibre Viper plus I'm thinking you needed green epoxy resin not polyurethane resin if you reinforced the back side of the bumper with high density red expansion foam and did your Fibre glass over top of it it would of been way stronger than overlaying the top of it
Finishing the episode at 4:53 am. 😴
It’s so crazy to think how meaningful this car build has been to finally be able to finish the car. Shes making great content. I can’t wait to see this ripping in eventually smooth, comfortable complete form amazing
*Some guys are using CNC machines to cut foam and make disposable molds for custom body parts, you may want to give that a try, from what I understand cutting the foam on a CNC is a lot quicker than 3D printing a part for a mold*
As someone that works on cnc machines for a living that would not be quicker to learn or cost efficient at all
@@mannydays2594To be more specific, you use a typical X/Y router with a longer than normal Z axis. You wouldn’t use a full mill for foam cutting.
It’s pretty common and cheap, but the printer they have can be much faster if someone experienced in large format printing gave them a hand and some training.
At that kind of build volume, you really want to be doing pellet extrusion which has much higher flow rates than a filament extruder can manage. Surface finish will suffer at the larger nozzles, but they’re sanding, filling, and fiberglassing anyway, so they don’t need or want a perfectly smooth printed finish.
I feel like you guys thrive on all the stress of these builds. I'm really stoked for this build. Thanks for the time and effort you all put into these cars!
You guys always make it look so easy. Now you had some trouble and this took some time. But still have a design that works and looks like you make the deadline as well. Only thing I would like to say is that you are true builders. Peace!
I hope you are paying Oscar well because he works his ass off!
How satisfying is to see you all finally be able to continue the 'Eleonor' build... it's a huge win for everyone, and justice has been served 🤩
wud be cool if u made a video after sema looking at every car you have and checking if they run and drive
The bumper and the wheel well are really some of the coolest things to this build for me.
This build is super bad ass. Can’t wait to see it at SEMA 🤘🏻🤘🏻
Hopeful sparing life, for next years SEMA you can refresh all your SEMA builds fix any issues and bring them all because you do really have some awesome builds!
This build has been amazing. The amount of work you guys did in this episode is incredible. Thank god for Oscar, and Kyle. We probably don't get to see this if they weren't there. Maybe start the next one a little earlier next time!
So much work in one episode. You guys go hard. That was insane. Looking forward to the next episode.
You know it's getting down to the wire when Chris ropes in Chelsea to help on the builds 😂
You guys are epic, the amount of focus and determination is inspiring. I’m keeping it all crossed for you to finish on time and to enjoy SEMA
I wonder if Chris and the team will ever manage one year to fully finish a project before SEMA - with time left to fully 'enjoy' the show ??
Fiberglass that cures at different speeds usually wasn't fully mixed OR it got cold and stayed out. I've had to wait 2 days before to cure thick sections on boat transoms in cold/damp shops. It does cure but a heat source will activate it quickly if an area is lagging behind. Looks great!
Love the videos just curious why do yall put yourself on such a tight deadline all the time seams like stress that yall shouldn't have to have
likely filmed all of this months or weeks ago - i feel like the "crunch" is for entertainment purposes / algorithm
Been the norm for BIFB for years now. I have no clue why they always put themselves in a hole like this. lol
@@toxpoint uhh, how would i fake saying what day it is and stuff? and why even do that?
I explained it in the comments in the last episode. Basically we werent planning on doing a sema build. Last minute we were offered a spot, I had a build in mind i knew we could do if we worked hard. And here we are!
@@BisforBuildChris it would be boring watching you, Oscar and Kyle take you time! Lmao 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 good job so far fellers
Seriously you guys do incredible work. The grill is absolutely gorgeous. I like that. It’s not just straight across flat. Also the wheel position truly looks natural now. Wonderful work. Also shout out to Oscar. You got a guy here that is just remarkable for sure.
I am glad this one is getting painted
Hey, when adhering carbon fiber or fiberglass to anything it needs to be sanded with like 60 grit. Prob already know that. Additionally the material will be more rigid if you sandwich it. Fiberglass, nyglass (or similar), fiberglass. This creates an “I beam”. I’m certified in prosthetic fabrication. I do it every day.
Your ability to keep cool and methodically keep moving forward, is incredible! 👏
When doing fiberglass chop-mat, I like to "pull" it apart to male my pieces versus cutting it with scissors. The edge then is jagged and seems to mesh better with the piece next to it. No hard cut lines. Just a suggestion
28:28 Those saturated disks are actually 'cleanable'.
Since the abrasive parts underneath aren’t worn out.
A simple search gives you thesolutions.
Love how this channel shows people you dont need snap on tools or an lz compound to build rad stuff. Just need to get after it, harbor freight tools work just as well
You guys have to start rolling out your fiberglass layers with a roller. Makes a huge difference and cuts way down on finish time.
I love that, unlike every single other channel you make every one of your builds a one of one
Guys this is a work of art. Kudos to you and your team. Wow. Congratulations.
It almost feels like you went from a BRZ channel to a Mustang channel with the builds. This one is almost as incredible as the mid engine mustang and can't wait to see the next big build
You guys are literal artists!! It's so amazing and inspiring. You took what seemed impossible to do and made it possible. I love you guys and your videos
Appreciate all the time and hard work you guys put into this build.
Using hard urethane foam is the light way to get rigidity.
Schedule 80 PVC pipe heat to shape and glass it in will give you ridigity and a hard point to attach stuff to.
Your plastic parts, you wi have to use an "adhesion promoter" then paint before glassing then it will stick.
Hire 5 guys to sand each 1/4 after you spray high build filler primer.
Great work B team
I realy like these long episodes where a lot of things get done. Great work guys, love the build!
Bro!! 48 minutes?!?! Full movie length BIFB, LET'S GOOOOO 🤘
I love it when a plan comes together.
Love seeing this redemption build come together. It looks awesome!
The work ethic at this place is just on another level! Amazing work guys! A true inspiration to all of us car enthusiasts and builders.
loving the way this all turned out.
Awesome progress! We are all ready for the final SEMA rush!
The amount of work you guys do in such a short time is nothing short of amazing.
Plan "E" is for "Everyone helps." Nice to see Chelsea in the build sanding fender. 😊 I have 2 little girls and encourage them to help with my projects as much as they can.
Hands down best mustang build b is for build has done!
you guys are the kings of crunch time, id love to see what you guys could do if you put a year of quality work into a car.
Amazing, what a accomplishment!
I am restoring a 1967 Coupe in the Netherlands but you guys do more in one week then I in years. Compliments!
Looks so good! Glad you stuck with the custom front end!!!!
Dude respect for doing the build on such a time crunch and still putting out Fantastic content to to keep us updated on every stage of the build.
Thank you and I'm excited for the outcome of the paint and interior. I dream of a project like this.
Guys, this build is super sick!!! And that red colour, if it comes on, i believe it will be an eye catch anywhere. Can't wait to see it done
WOW ! Looking great. 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇺🇸🇬🇧🇺🇸🇬🇧
Wow amazing work ethic when the deadline looms... great work guys!
This ER mustang is looking so good right now great work fellas
Looking good boys and looking forward to seeing it at SEMA!
I think it’ll be cool to see Chris design all the parts for a car, bumpers, air, dams, intakes, fender, flares any arrow pieces, and then provide those files for people with 3-D printers to print a piece of it, and send him the part and then it can be assembled into larger final assemblies with the efforts of all those out there sending pieces. A crowd sourced effort.
Just love this channel these guys are true car builders.
Well done to you all
Chris what is the fiberglass reinforced filler you use.
You should make a steel lip / plate under the front bumper to protect it. This thing is going to look good and sound great!
Amazing grafting guys. Car looks nuts!!
You guys are so awesome! Can't believe you nail it again.
Excellent. Excellent episode. Excellent skills in a number of disciplines by a number of people. Literally awesome.
It looks amazing in that state! I'm excited to see how the paintwork shows off those body lines!
That rendering is stunning , love the red !
That thing looks like one evil shark!! Totally bad ass build, cant wait to see the finial product!!!!
Looks good really coming along nice. I like the idea of taking a newer chassis and putting an old style body on it. I would have like to have seen the exhaust come through the rear valance
I am loving that grill mesh!
Acetone wipes can help get rid of a lot of that tackiness left over from the resin. I've used that trick a few times working on some fiberglass speaker boxes in the past.
Great job guys i take my hat off to you working so well under pressure 👍👍👍
So excited to see you guys and the car in las Vegas!!!