Please hit the like button if you find this video helpful as a token of appreciation for all the effort it took to make this video and also so that this video can spread to more people. Thanks for your support!
Thanks! I have extended my bed on my Ender 3 to about 60cm. It is almost working with the original 42-34 motor but I am going to upgrade the motor to the 42-40 and need to get the current up some. This is what I needed. Since someone might ask, it works well but the vibration noise in the print is up. Since the vibration is consistent, for my non-critical application it looks good. I pressed the Like and Subscribe button. Cheers!
@@louiskatzclay Thank you for your comment! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Could you share how you extended the bed? I'd like to do something similar. Did you use a specific kit or customize it yourself? I'm considering extending the frame along the Y-axis and replacing the bed with a 235x470mm aluminum plate covered by glass. Did you stick with the original Ender 3 bed heater, or did you upgrade to something else? Thanks in advance!
@@YouMakeTech Yes. I will upload a video in return for your help. I will try to include most of a parts list and sources, It might take a day or two to get it together.
Thank you soo much for the chart of voltages and amps for each stepper. I fried my old mobo on my printer and had to adjust the voltages on the new mobo. Some were set to 1.6 and extruder was nearing 2
I like this video because it is straight to the point ! Where did you find the specifications of the motors? Most shops advertise the Creality 42-34 to be 1.5A and 4kg.cm torque. Because of the Vref values, I was thinking it might be wrong but your datasheet seems closer to reality.
I posted the specifications of the stepper motors & drivers on my website. You can find them at www.youmaketech.com/how-to-adjust-stepper-motor-currents-on-ender-3-pro-v2/
i have ender 3 pro. my printer have sliping problem and my volt is 0.5 for each motor. 4.2.2 is my board and for driver part its writed GD and i dont know witch driver is it.
My creality 4.2.2 board has the GD 32F MCU. It has GD on the SD card slot. I removed the heatsink on the stepper driver to see which stepper driver it used, but it is unreadable. All of the current voltages were x-.572 y-.572 z-.572 and E-.71. I suspected Z axis was too low, but I don't know what voltages to use.
I had problems with the motors making a thump- or weird clunk- sound when starting the machine with the 4.2.7 board.. (newest marlin firmware with own config).. IDK why that is. Also thought about returning the board... sometimes my ender 3 also makes these roll-out grinding sounds, that seem to come from the x axis motor... maybe only when USB is plugged in or so.. still testing that . I could feel the noises on the frame too, they are twitching/ "torquing" the clunking sound also comes sporadically from the y axis motor and Z axis motor.. I down tuned the potentiometers down to 0.3- 0.33 V. (hemera extruder on 0.36V) reccomended voltage for it is 0.48V the creality steppers should be at 1.1, but idk I THINK the clunking sound almost dissapeared with the low numbers. it got weaker and weaker the more I dialed the potis down. I did this until it was either really unnoticable, or completely gone at startup. although it might only be a startup-spike problem or so. I think I also tried the original Creality firmware, and did not notice the same behavior as from the Marlin user-pre config firmware. but I could be wrong as it does not make these sounds every single time the machine starts... anyway. it is weird, it is also weird that the motors work like this , currently printing a piece, and so far it works great. oh and I also tried to find something in the config files in Visual studio, anything related to current/steppers, power up, etc. nothing worked , nothing definite found. and I also read, that the drivers work in standalone mode, so current settings made in the config files would not even be executed , you have to enable uart mode or something for regulating the current via firmware. but anyway.. screwed it manually by the pots.. print is really coming out quite nice, right now printing PETG at 150mm/s without part cooling (printing the fan duct right now lol)
Thanks for sharing your experience. I am not sure to understand how you get a Vref of 0.48V. This seems very low and could explain the clunking sound. Maybe the clunking sound is the motor skipping steps due to the current being set too low? According to this: e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016249057-Hemera-Current-Adjustment-Edition-1- , the standard Hemera motor has a rated motor current of 1.33A This is higher than the rated current of the stock extruder motor (1A). Which means that you normally should increase the Vref, not decrease it. The Vref for the stock extruder motor is 1.2V. For the Hemera motor and Creality V4.2.* mainboards with TMC drivers, the Vref should be increased to 1.60V - 1.84V. The only way to adjust the current is through the potentiometers because as you said the drivers work in standalone mode. They cannot be controlled by firmware. All driver settings in Marlin configuration files are not applicable to the Creality V4.2.* mainboards as the firmware cannot communicate settings to the drivers.
@@YouMakeTech but the clunk came on the original voltages... I tried to lower it after standart vref, to prevent that from happening. that sound def. comes from the printer activating the steppers at power on, it activates them for a few seconds, then the steppers deactivate... I watched the australian tech guy configuring the hemera, and he basicly said that the recommended vref for the hemera stepper has to be set at 0.48v... maybe I should read up on the E3d site on the recomended vref for the extruder... still tryingto figure out the perfect config and everything... sadly creality does not provide the code of their firmware, I think only the BIN.. I will test that stuff further if I got the nerves:)
In TeachingTech's video about the Hemera on Ender 3 ( ruclips.net/video/oY1F7fUBHrc/видео.html ) the 0.48V VRef is for A4988 drivers on the V1 Creality mainboard. You can see that the printer mainboard is green on the video which means that it is a V1 8 bits mainboard. The V4.2.7 mainboard is black. The 0.48V Vref not correct for a V4.2.7 mainboard with TMC drivers. With a V4.2.7 mainboard, your Vrefs should be : X=1.10V, Y=1.10V, Z=1.10V and E=1.75V. E3D specification has an incorrect value too for Vref for Creality V4.2.* mainboards. This is likely because Creality uses 150mOhm sense resistors and not 100 as in the driver specification. I also have a clucking sound when starting the printer. This is expected because the printer powers temporarily the motors on startup. I don't think you should be worried about that.
The Clunk Sound is normal when starting the printer. Its the Z axis and as far as i know. When the printer is powered off, It sinks down and sits on the leadscrew.
Great video, and I saw it because I have just added a dual z-drive with an additional stepper for the Z-drive and a split cable to the main board. When testing, only one stepper motor runs (the new one). My board is 4.2.2, card reader marked "C". I assume that I need to turn the VREF up for the Z-stepper, but I am unsure...
Awesome. I wanted to ask if this can also help get rid of stepper motor noise. Recently, I replaced my failed motherboard on Ender 3 v2 with 4.2.2 silent mobo. However, the stepper motors are making too much noise, which was not there before. But steppers are running cooler than earlier.
@@YouMakeTech I can't. The printer is just a month old and I got the board replaced by Creality. Don't have budget to buy new mobo. Can't I do anything with this board to silent motors. As I said, they are runnibg cooler than earlier but noisy. Anything, firmware update or Vref adjustment?
@@ravis1ngh I don't think so. The reason the silent mainboards are silent is because their drivers run in a special mode called stealthchop. See www.trinamic.com/technology/motor-control-technology/chopper-modes/ This mode is only available in TMC drivers. Maybe complain to Creality that your mainboard is much noisier than before and they will send you a silent mainboard!
Thank you so much man! But one big question: what about the adjustment for double z with 2 motors on the same cable? Could you tell me how to calculate which Vref I should use please? Do I have to double the current, like 1,16x2 for a double 42-34? I am a bit lost.
Very helpful thank you. Having issues with Ender 3 Pro with extruder skipping. Checked everything, replaced just about everything and was always able to hand push filament without issue. Tested E axis stepper and was coming in at 1.19, I bumped it to 1.24 and I'm currently running a 12 hour print and about 2 hours in with no skipping (actually very nice so far). What is considered too hot for the stepper? Any heat at all or burning skin? It's a bit warm but not scalding. I never touched the stepper before this to have a baseline to go by. Great video, thanks again.
As long as you can touch the stepper with your hand, it's fine. Stepper motors are rated for 70 deg C. Ideally, you want to set the current high enough to not have skipped steps but low enough to keep the stepper/driver as cool as possible
The only way to know for sure is to remove the heatsink and the glue. The driver type (e.g. TMC2225) is written on the chip. Unfortunately, the Creality V422 mainboard is a complete mess. It has been shipped with almost every driver type on the market, A4988, TMC2208, TMC2209, TMC2225! If you don't need to know the exact reference but just know whether you have a A4988 or a TMCxxxx driver, you can either 1) Listen to the noise: the TMCxxxx drivers are silent drivers => much less noise when moving a stepper motor 2) Measure your current VREF. If the VREF is in the range 1.1V to 1.4V, most likely you have a TMC driver. If it is below 1V, most likely you don't have a TMCxxxx driver...
If the driver is soldered on the board, it is nearly impossible to do it yourself. The component is surface mounted and the distance between the pins is very small.
How do you feel about putting some inexpensive heatsinks on the stepper motors? It might help increase the life of the motor for a few bucks? Also. Someone said not to move motor by hand because the feedback can damage the drivers. Is that true? I would think the engineer would design some protection for this.
heatsinks are good, they help to dissipate the heat. Stepper motors can run quite hot though, 70 deg C is not an issue! I think it is right that turning the motors by hand when the printer is off can damage the electronics and should be avoided.
It's unlikely to be the stepper motor current for the X axis unless you go crazy fast! Maybe check the belt tension and the eccentric nut. Check that the print head does not wobble when you move it by hand. For the VRef, it depends in the mainboard you use. Please watch the video for more details
@@YouMakeTech the belt tension is good and i have 4 Printers , but one of them have MKS Robin Nano v1.2 borad woth TMC 2209 . The x axis make layershift randomly, the steppers are cold but drivers generate heat , i didn't check the volt of them but im just asking
@@sgt.sasquatch Sorry, I receive comments from people with varying degree of 3d printing experience from complete beginners to experts! Well, if everything is fine on the mechanical side, layer shifting can be due to the stepper motor skipping steps. Maybe try to increase the motor current (Vref) by 10% to see if that solves the issue.
Hmmmm, I'm swapping a stepper for my friends printer and all his potentiometers are set to 1.38 volts even though xyz are using the 42-34 steppers. Shouldn't it only be set to 1.38 on the extruder since it is the big 42-40 motor?
no, this will overheat the driver. Start with the current VRef and only increase it 0.1 by 0.1V until you get no skipped steps. There are 2 motors but they need only half the torque, because the weight and friction is now distributed among them. They may need slightly more torque though because 2 lead screws generate more friction than one
If adding a z stepper motor for duel z screws how much would you bump current to on a ender 3 pro with a 4.2.2 board? Going to use a splitter board or a y cable. Not sure which yet.
Hi, it is a tricky question and I don't have an answer. The Ender 3 V4.2.* mainboards are not really designed to run dual stepper motors off a single driver. The Creality silent mainboards run the drivers in standalone mode. This mode provides less torque to even a single stepper motor, much less two. If you have just connected the 2 motors to the same driver in parallel using some sort of Y splitter cable, each motor receives only half of the current => less torque => skipped steps... You don't want to raise the current too much neither because the driver has probably not been designed to operate at 2x current for extended periods of time (and will get too hot => go in standby mode).. I guess you have to raise the current a bit to compensate for the additional friction of the 2nd leadscrew + additional heat losses because you are running 2 motors instead of one. This is what I would do: Currently, your VREF on the Z axis should be around 1.10 V. I would raise it to 1.20 Volts. This is known to work because the extruder motor runs at this current in the stock configuration. If you still have skipped steps, I would raise it 0.10 by 0.10 Volts until skipped steps are gone, trying to stay below 1.40 volts. If this does not work, I would replace the Creality mainboard with a board that can natively support 2 Z motors on 2 individual drivers.
@@YouMakeTech this was basically what I was expecting based on your video. I’m hoping not to have to replace the main board but in the end running two lead screws as you say is quite difficult at the current range of the drivers. I may end up replacing it or working towards the belted option I saw you post or made a video about. Thank you for your help!
To be honnest, I never upgraded my Ender 3 to dual z steppers because I am concerned to raise the current too much. The thermal design of the area surrounding the mainboard is bad and I had issues with drivers becoming too hot in the past. I prefer a mechanical system
So checked my stepper currents and they were very low at .56 xyz and .76 for e. The board is a 4.2.2 board with resistors at 150. Bumped up the z to .9 and it started running both steppers without warmth to the motors. Might take them up to 1.1 next and see how they do.
I have Upgraded my E-motor for a Pancake one, but i didnt get any info about it. Its running, byt its getting very hot. So i might go down with the Eref once i get my multimeter. Do you have any Tip where i should start? Was thinking to go down to 0.8V. Or is it too low? I have a BMG-clone that is powered by the Pancake Motor.
@@YouMakeTech Thanks for your fast answer, i will try it with your suggested VREF! And thanks for all the work you put into your videos. They really help alot.
@@YouMakeTech Just wanted to let you know, 1.1V seems to be perfect for my Pancake-Motor. It doesnt get Hot anymore (just warm, i can touch it) and it does not skip steps! And with your video guide, it was easy to set up the Correct value. Thanks again for your help.
I also have a Pancake extruder, the VRef was set to 1.4v it was getting very hot and skipping steps, now its set up to 1.16v and its still skipping and getting very hot
Hello, YouMakeTech I want to replace the Y-Axis 42-34 stepper motor on my Ender 3 Pro with a 42-40 stepper. The stock motor gets pretty hot and all of a sudden, it stops working, it just jerks and not rotate. So do you advise I replace with a 42-40 stepper and set the Vref to the same voltage as the Extruder motor ?? I'm not really good with all the Voltage calculations. And it uses the HR4988 motor driver.
The current VREF is probably set too high and the driver gets too hot and stops working. Maybe you can try these things: keep the electronic board outside of the enclosure for better venting, add a fan that blows on the electronic board + measure the current VREF on the Y axis and reduce it by 20%. Reduce the VREF by steps of 20% until the motor skips steps, then raise it a bit until it no longer does. Hope this helps
The motors on Creality printers are unlikely to get hot. More likely is the driver chips on the board getting hot. My Ender 3 Pro 4.2.2 had VRef set at 5.78V for XYZ from the factory with 150mOhm resistors. When I bumped them up to a volt, the driver chips started getting very hot (>65°C on the heat sinks). I dropped them down to 0.72V and the temp dropped by 20°C to the mid 40s. I left them there, since I wasn't having any skipping at that voltage. Same for the E channel. At 1.2V, driver chip got hot. Dropped it to 0.9V and temp is steady in the mid 40°C range. My point is be careful because the driver ships will heat up way before the motors and if you fry them, you will be replacing a board. I'm not sure why the calculations don't seem to jive but wanted to report my findings.
I also have a stock 4.2.2 board on my Ender 3 pro. assuming we have the same stepper motor drivers with E on our card reader, the motor drivers we have are A4988 not the TMC drivers he talks about in this video, and have different calculations for I and treat Vref slightly differently. on the A4988 data sheet I found internal PWM current control I(tripMax)=V(REF)/[8xR(sense)] so Vref=Imax*[8*.150 ohm] not sure how your xyz could stand a Vref of of 5.78 but my E is running slow and not turning fast enough almost stalling. when I switched my E to X port, E would work fine but then my x would be at a crawl. so I'm going to try upping my E Vref if its less than 1.2V and see if that fixes my under extrusion. wish me luck
Hey, would going through this process be the thing to do if my ender 3 pro is barely extruding anything? I tried adjusting the e steps and it only works if I set them super high like at 1000 and only for a few seconds before hardly extruding again. Im not too good at this but it seems to me like the motor isn’t strong enough to push the filament through. Thanks
Not sure. Which motor/extruder do you use? If stock, I would restore the default e-steps (93 steps per mm), increase the nozzle temperature and try again. 1000 steps per mm is way too high and can trigger over-current protection. Maybe your motor needs to be replaced.
@@YouMakeTech im using the stock motor and the extruder is an upgraded metal one, I tried at 93 steps and it still barely prints, I could try replacing the motor before trying to set the current.
I just got myself a pancake stepper paired with a BMG-clone and have changed the VREF to 0.485v. Is there anything in the firmware that needs to be changed in order for it to work well? My prints are turning out really shoddy atm and crumble to bits in my finger tips 🥲. The only help I received from the supplier was a message saying "0.8A--485", so I assumed that meant set the VREF to 0.485v and 0.8A in the firmware, but I've not seen any guides regarding changing stepper motor current within the firmware. If anyone can help me, I'd appreciate it.
Which 3d printer/mainboard do you use? on almost all Creality mainboards, the stepper motor current is set by a potentiometer on the board and cannot be set by firmware. The other setting to change is DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT which should be changed from 93 to 415 for a Bondtech BMG or clone. Thiis because of the gear ratio of the BMG
@@YouMakeTech Hey! Thanks for the reply. It's a CR10-S PRO using a Creality v2.4 mainboard I believe. Is the "DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT" setting basically e-steps, or something completely different? What VREF value would you recommend I set the potentiometer to?
@@YouMakeTech Thanks for the help. I've just cranked the VREF up to 1.1v, re-calibrated e-steps, and running a calibration cube print as we speak. Lets see if that made any improvement.
You only need to increase the VREF if your extruder skips steps. Otherwise, try to reduce it to keep your motor relatively cool, while not skipping steps
Hi, it is a tricky question and I don't have an answer. The Ender 3 V4.2.* mainboards are not really designed to run dual stepper motors off a single driver. The Creality silent mainboards run the drivers in standalone mode. This mode provides less torque to even a single stepper motor, much less two. If you have just connected the 2 motors to the same driver in parallel using some sort of Y splitter cable, each motor receives only half of the current => less torque => skipped steps... You don't want to raise the current too much neither because the driver has probably not been designed to operate at 2x current for extended periods of time... I guess you have to raise the current a bit to compensate for the additional friction of the 2nd leadscrew + additional heat losses because you are running 2 motors instead of one. This is what I would do: Currently, your VREF on the Z axis should be around 1.10 V. I would raise it to 1.20 Volts. This is known to work because the extruder motor runs at this current in the stock configuration. If you still have skipped steps, I would raise it 0.10 by 0.10 Volts until skipped steps are gone, trying to stay below 1.40 volts. If this does not work, I would replace the Creality mainboard with a board that can natively support 2 Z motors on 2 individual drivers.
Just check my ender 3 v2 v4.2.2 - X=1,2V, Y=1V, Z=1,2V, E=1,4V. Uusing your data, it means that i have X= 0,87A, Y=0,72A, Z=0,81A, E=1,01A. Thats why my X,Z axis motor and E are very heat, Y is colder. Thank you very much!
2 года назад
great video, I was looking for something like that. now I'm even more confused. I have a 4.2.7 motherboard and 42-34 standard motors. I plan to get some 0.9 degree motors for x y maybe and Z(dual Z). which one should I choose from all those on the market. according to everything I see, it won't work because the voltage is too high in the calculation? can it work at all or do I have to change the motherboard for a 0.9 degree motor. any help?
@@DanielMelendrezPhD Daniel, you were the first to hypothesize: you assumed that I hadn't realized the trimmer on the board was damaged. Actually, Mike is right and this board was used just for demo. You realize that your initial comment was unconstructive and arrogant, right?
@@DanielMelendrezPhD Sorry I didn't find your initial comment at all constructive. I didn't like it, I still don't like it. Anyway, I normally ignore comments I don't like and will continue to do so: I only publish videos in the hope that they will be useful to some people. And thanks, some people are really encouraging, they typically start their comments with something like "thanks for the video"... I only do RUclips for these people.
Please hit the like button if you find this video helpful as a token of appreciation for all the effort it took to make this video and also so that this video can spread to more people. Thanks for your support!
Finally! A proper explanation how to get the correct VRef values. Thank you!
After 2 years of don´t know what i am doing, i have found your video! Thank you so much!!!!You are all our hero!!!!
Thanks! I have extended my bed on my Ender 3 to about 60cm. It is almost working with the original 42-34 motor but I am going to upgrade the motor to the 42-40 and need to get the current up some. This is what I needed.
Since someone might ask, it works well but the vibration noise in the print is up. Since the vibration is consistent, for my non-critical application it looks good.
I pressed the Like and Subscribe button. Cheers!
@@louiskatzclay Thank you for your comment! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Could you share how you extended the bed? I'd like to do something similar. Did you use a specific kit or customize it yourself? I'm considering extending the frame along the Y-axis and replacing the bed with a 235x470mm aluminum plate covered by glass. Did you stick with the original Ender 3 bed heater, or did you upgrade to something else? Thanks in advance!
@@YouMakeTech Yes. I will upload a video in return for your help. I will try to include most of a parts list and sources, It might take a day or two to get it together.
Thank you for the detailed tutorial.
Thank you soo much for the chart of voltages and amps for each stepper. I fried my old mobo on my printer and had to adjust the voltages on the new mobo. Some were set to 1.6 and extruder was nearing 2
I'm really liking your videos. Especially your klipper video. Great work. Keep it up.
Thanks for your support! More Klipper video are coming so stay tuned!
Beautiful video. Informative and direct. Thanks!
Super helpful video. I'm setting vref on a motor with a rated current of 1A on a 4.2.7 board. I might be back with some questions. :)
I like this video because it is straight to the point ! Where did you find the specifications of the motors? Most shops advertise the Creality 42-34 to be 1.5A and 4kg.cm torque. Because of the Vref values, I was thinking it might be wrong but your datasheet seems closer to reality.
I posted the specifications of the stepper motors & drivers on my website. You can find them at www.youmaketech.com/how-to-adjust-stepper-motor-currents-on-ender-3-pro-v2/
La technique du tournevis, mec... MERCI.
i have ender 3 pro. my printer have sliping problem and my volt is 0.5 for each motor. 4.2.2 is my board and for driver part its writed GD and i dont know witch driver is it.
Great video. Succinct, to the point. Thanks!
My creality 4.2.2 board has the GD 32F MCU. It has GD on the SD card slot. I removed the heatsink on the stepper driver to see which stepper driver it used, but it is unreadable. All of the current voltages were x-.572 y-.572 z-.572 and E-.71. I suspected Z axis was too low, but I don't know what voltages to use.
I had problems with the motors making a thump- or weird clunk- sound when starting the machine with the 4.2.7 board.. (newest marlin firmware with own config).. IDK why that is. Also thought about returning the board...
sometimes my ender 3 also makes these roll-out grinding sounds, that seem to come from the x axis motor... maybe only when USB is plugged in or so.. still testing that .
I could feel the noises on the frame too, they are twitching/ "torquing" the clunking sound also comes sporadically from the y axis motor and Z axis motor.. I down tuned the potentiometers down to 0.3- 0.33 V. (hemera extruder on 0.36V) reccomended voltage for it is 0.48V the creality steppers should be at 1.1, but idk I THINK the clunking sound almost dissapeared with the low numbers. it got weaker and weaker the more I dialed the potis down. I did this until it was either really unnoticable, or completely gone at startup. although it might only be a startup-spike problem or so. I think I also tried the original Creality firmware, and did not notice the same behavior as from the Marlin user-pre config firmware. but I could be wrong as it does not make these sounds every single time the machine starts... anyway. it is weird, it is also weird that the motors work like this , currently printing a piece, and so far it works great. oh and I also tried to find something in the config files in Visual studio, anything related to current/steppers, power up, etc. nothing worked , nothing definite found. and I also read, that the drivers work in standalone mode, so current settings made in the config files would not even be executed , you have to enable uart mode or something for regulating the current via firmware. but anyway.. screwed it manually by the pots.. print is really coming out quite nice, right now printing PETG at 150mm/s without part cooling (printing the fan duct right now lol)
Thanks for sharing your experience. I am not sure to understand how you get a Vref of 0.48V. This seems very low and could explain the clunking sound. Maybe the clunking sound is the motor skipping steps due to the current being set too low?
According to this: e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360016249057-Hemera-Current-Adjustment-Edition-1- , the standard Hemera motor has a rated motor current of 1.33A This is higher than the rated current of the stock extruder motor (1A). Which means that you normally should increase the Vref, not decrease it. The Vref for the stock extruder motor is 1.2V.
For the Hemera motor and Creality V4.2.* mainboards with TMC drivers, the Vref should be increased to 1.60V - 1.84V.
The only way to adjust the current is through the potentiometers because as you said the drivers work in standalone mode. They cannot be controlled by firmware. All driver settings in Marlin configuration files are not applicable to the Creality V4.2.* mainboards as the firmware cannot communicate settings to the drivers.
@@YouMakeTech but the clunk came on the original voltages... I tried to lower it after standart vref, to prevent that from happening. that sound def. comes from the printer activating the steppers at power on, it activates them for a few seconds, then the steppers deactivate... I watched the australian tech guy configuring the hemera, and he basicly said that the recommended vref for the hemera stepper has to be set at 0.48v... maybe I should read up on the E3d site on the recomended vref for the extruder... still tryingto figure out the perfect config and everything... sadly creality does not provide the code of their firmware, I think only the BIN.. I will test that stuff further if I got the nerves:)
In TeachingTech's video about the Hemera on Ender 3 ( ruclips.net/video/oY1F7fUBHrc/видео.html ) the 0.48V VRef is for A4988 drivers on the V1 Creality mainboard. You can see that the printer mainboard is green on the video which means that it is a V1 8 bits mainboard. The V4.2.7 mainboard is black.
The 0.48V Vref not correct for a V4.2.7 mainboard with TMC drivers. With a V4.2.7 mainboard, your Vrefs should be : X=1.10V, Y=1.10V, Z=1.10V and E=1.75V. E3D specification has an incorrect value too for Vref for Creality V4.2.* mainboards. This is likely because Creality uses 150mOhm sense resistors and not 100 as in the driver specification.
I also have a clucking sound when starting the printer. This is expected because the printer powers temporarily the motors on startup. I don't think you should be worried about that.
The Clunk Sound is normal when starting the printer. Its the Z axis and as far as i know. When the printer is powered off, It sinks down and sits on the leadscrew.
Got that Problem too
Great video, and I saw it because I have just added a dual z-drive with an additional stepper for the Z-drive and a split cable to the main board. When testing, only one stepper motor runs (the new one). My board is 4.2.2, card reader marked "C". I assume that I need to turn the VREF up for the Z-stepper, but I am unsure...
Awesome. I wanted to ask if this can also help get rid of stepper motor noise. Recently, I replaced my failed motherboard on Ender 3 v2 with 4.2.2 silent mobo. However, the stepper motors are making too much noise, which was not there before. But steppers are running cooler than earlier.
Not all 4.2.2. mainboards come with TMC drivers. Some of them are vey noisy. Try to get a Creality 4.2.7 or better, an SKR Mini E3.
@@YouMakeTech I can't. The printer is just a month old and I got the board replaced by Creality. Don't have budget to buy new mobo. Can't I do anything with this board to silent motors. As I said, they are runnibg cooler than earlier but noisy. Anything, firmware update or Vref adjustment?
@@ravis1ngh I don't think so. The reason the silent mainboards are silent is because their drivers run in a special mode called stealthchop. See www.trinamic.com/technology/motor-control-technology/chopper-modes/ This mode is only available in TMC drivers. Maybe complain to Creality that your mainboard is much noisier than before and they will send you a silent mainboard!
@@YouMakeTech Sure. Thanks 😊 Keep up the good work.
@@YouMakeTech One more thing, would you recommend TL smoother for E3V2.
Thank you so much man! But one big question: what about the adjustment for double z with 2 motors on the same cable? Could you tell me how to calculate which Vref I should use please? Do I have to double the current, like 1,16x2 for a double 42-34? I am a bit lost.
Very helpful thank you. Having issues with Ender 3 Pro with extruder skipping. Checked everything, replaced just about everything and was always able to hand push filament without issue. Tested E axis stepper and was coming in at 1.19, I bumped it to 1.24 and I'm currently running a 12 hour print and about 2 hours in with no skipping (actually very nice so far). What is considered too hot for the stepper? Any heat at all or burning skin? It's a bit warm but not scalding. I never touched the stepper before this to have a baseline to go by. Great video, thanks again.
As long as you can touch the stepper with your hand, it's fine. Stepper motors are rated for 70 deg C. Ideally, you want to set the current high enough to not have skipped steps but low enough to keep the stepper/driver as cool as possible
@@YouMakeTech Thank you! I've noticed that the E stepper is a bit cooler than the X,Y,Z steppers. Now I'm going to check all of them.
How to do this if i have bigtreetech skr mini e3 v3.0 mainboard? i dont see this place to set up vref
For the SKR mini, this in done by firmware. The settings can be directly modified in Configuration_adv.h for Marlin
tenk iou my friande veri usefule vidéo !
Double check your boards + and - pos on the board i just fired popped a driver because of it and now have to replace the whole board
How to check stepper motor driver type in creality v422 board?
The only way to know for sure is to remove the heatsink and the glue. The driver type (e.g. TMC2225) is written on the chip. Unfortunately, the Creality V422 mainboard is a complete mess. It has been shipped with almost every driver type on the market, A4988, TMC2208, TMC2209, TMC2225! If you don't need to know the exact reference but just know whether you have a A4988 or a TMCxxxx driver, you can either 1) Listen to the noise: the TMCxxxx drivers are silent drivers => much less noise when moving a stepper motor 2) Measure your current VREF. If the VREF is in the range 1.1V to 1.4V, most likely you have a TMC driver. If it is below 1V, most likely you don't have a TMCxxxx driver...
@@YouMakeTech thanks. I'll Try this method
Does it work the same way on an Ender 3 S1 board?
Hi how do you change the stepper driver on the board? i think my driver is gone, its showing 24v
thanks
If the driver is soldered on the board, it is nearly impossible to do it yourself. The component is surface mounted and the distance between the pins is very small.
thanks dude
thanks for this
i have a sticker writen t8 on card reader, what stepper driver motor is a correct?
i find, is a tmc2208
How do you feel about putting some inexpensive heatsinks on the stepper motors? It might help increase the life of the motor for a few bucks?
Also. Someone said not to move motor by hand because the feedback can damage the drivers. Is that true? I would think the engineer would design some protection for this.
heatsinks are good, they help to dissipate the heat. Stepper motors can run quite hot though, 70 deg C is not an issue! I think it is right that turning the motors by hand when the printer is off can damage the electronics and should be avoided.
does current effect and cause layer shift ?
Yes, when the current is too low, the motor skips steps. This causes layer shifts on X, Y Z and under-extrusion on E
@@YouMakeTech what volt or amp should my steppers be on? Cuz i have layer shift on X axis, mine is nema 17 42 /34
It's unlikely to be the stepper motor current for the X axis unless you go crazy fast! Maybe check the belt tension and the eccentric nut. Check that the print head does not wobble when you move it by hand. For the VRef, it depends in the mainboard you use. Please watch the video for more details
@@YouMakeTech the belt tension is good and i have 4 Printers , but one of them have MKS Robin Nano v1.2 borad woth TMC 2209 . The x axis make layershift randomly, the steppers are cold but drivers generate heat , i didn't check the volt of them but im just asking
@@sgt.sasquatch Sorry, I receive comments from people with varying degree of 3d printing experience from complete beginners to experts! Well, if everything is fine on the mechanical side, layer shifting can be due to the stepper motor skipping steps. Maybe try to increase the motor current (Vref) by 10% to see if that solves the issue.
Hmmmm, I'm swapping a stepper for my friends printer and all his potentiometers are set to 1.38 volts even though xyz are using the 42-34 steppers. Shouldn't it only be set to 1.38 on the extruder since it is the big 42-40 motor?
If I added a second Z stepper motor do I double the voltage?
no, this will overheat the driver. Start with the current VRef and only increase it 0.1 by 0.1V until you get no skipped steps. There are 2 motors but they need only half the torque, because the weight and friction is now distributed among them. They may need slightly more torque though because 2 lead screws generate more friction than one
what should be the Vref for ender 5 plus with v2.2 non silent "H" board (TMC 2225) ?
If adding a z stepper motor for duel z screws how much would you bump current to on a ender 3 pro with a 4.2.2 board? Going to use a splitter board or a y cable. Not sure which yet.
Hi, it is a tricky question and I don't have an answer. The Ender 3 V4.2.* mainboards are not really designed to run dual stepper motors off a single driver. The Creality silent mainboards run the drivers in standalone mode. This mode provides less torque to even a single stepper motor, much less two. If you have just connected the 2 motors to the same driver in parallel using some sort of Y splitter cable, each motor receives only half of the current => less torque => skipped steps... You don't want to raise the current too much neither because the driver has probably not been designed to operate at 2x current for extended periods of time (and will get too hot => go in standby mode).. I guess you have to raise the current a bit to compensate for the additional friction of the 2nd leadscrew + additional heat losses because you are running 2 motors instead of one. This is what I would do: Currently, your VREF on the Z axis should be around 1.10 V. I would raise it to 1.20 Volts. This is known to work because the extruder motor runs at this current in the stock configuration. If you still have skipped steps, I would raise it 0.10 by 0.10 Volts until skipped steps are gone, trying to stay below 1.40 volts. If this does not work, I would replace the Creality mainboard with a board that can natively support 2 Z motors on 2 individual drivers.
@@YouMakeTech this was basically what I was expecting based on your video. I’m hoping not to have to replace the main board but in the end running two lead screws as you say is quite difficult at the current range of the drivers. I may end up replacing it or working towards the belted option I saw you post or made a video about. Thank you for your help!
To be honnest, I never upgraded my Ender 3 to dual z steppers because I am concerned to raise the current too much. The thermal design of the area surrounding the mainboard is bad and I had issues with drivers becoming too hot in the past. I prefer a mechanical system
@@YouMakeTech just dual screws no motors or something more akin to the belt system?
So checked my stepper currents and they were very low at .56 xyz and .76 for e. The board is a 4.2.2 board with resistors at 150. Bumped up the z to .9 and it started running both steppers without warmth to the motors. Might take them up to 1.1 next and see how they do.
Goodnight. how can I get to the values of the Vref of Sovol Sv01.
Comes with a Creality V2.2 Board
with Atmega 2560 8Bit
I have Upgraded my E-motor for a Pancake one, but i didnt get any info about it.
Its running, byt its getting very hot. So i might go down with the Eref once i get my multimeter.
Do you have any Tip where i should start? Was thinking to go down to 0.8V. Or is it too low?
I have a BMG-clone that is powered by the Pancake Motor.
0.8V might be too low. A VREF between 1.0V and 1.2V should work fine with most pancake stepper motors.
@@YouMakeTech Thanks for your fast answer, i will try it with your suggested VREF!
And thanks for all the work you put into your videos. They really help alot.
@@YouMakeTech Just wanted to let you know, 1.1V seems to be perfect for my Pancake-Motor. It doesnt get Hot anymore (just warm, i can touch it) and it does not skip steps!
And with your video guide, it was easy to set up the Correct value.
Thanks again for your help.
Good news. Glad my video was useful!
I also have a Pancake extruder, the VRef was set to 1.4v it was getting very hot and skipping steps, now its set up to 1.16v and its still skipping and getting very hot
What is ALC or AIC stepper motor driver? It's just written on the card reader of my Ender 3 Max.
Never seen this before. Which board do you have?
@@YouMakeTech CLeality v 4.2.2
that means you have tmc drivers in x,y and hr4988 drivers in z and not sure the extruder as well
Hello, YouMakeTech
I want to replace the Y-Axis 42-34 stepper motor on my Ender 3 Pro with a 42-40 stepper. The stock motor gets pretty hot and all of a sudden, it stops working, it just jerks and not rotate.
So do you advise I replace with a 42-40 stepper and set the Vref to the same voltage as the Extruder motor ??
I'm not really good with all the Voltage calculations.
And it uses the HR4988 motor driver.
The current VREF is probably set too high and the driver gets too hot and stops working. Maybe you can try these things: keep the electronic board outside of the enclosure for better venting, add a fan that blows on the electronic board + measure the current VREF on the Y axis and reduce it by 20%. Reduce the VREF by steps of 20% until the motor skips steps, then raise it a bit until it no longer does. Hope this helps
The motors on Creality printers are unlikely to get hot. More likely is the driver chips on the board getting hot. My Ender 3 Pro 4.2.2 had VRef set at 5.78V for XYZ from the factory with 150mOhm resistors. When I bumped them up to a volt, the driver chips started getting very hot (>65°C on the heat sinks). I dropped them down to 0.72V and the temp dropped by 20°C to the mid 40s. I left them there, since I wasn't having any skipping at that voltage. Same for the E channel. At 1.2V, driver chip got hot. Dropped it to 0.9V and temp is steady in the mid 40°C range. My point is be careful because the driver ships will heat up way before the motors and if you fry them, you will be replacing a board. I'm not sure why the calculations don't seem to jive but wanted to report my findings.
Are your chips equipped with those little cooling fins?
I also have a stock 4.2.2 board on my Ender 3 pro. assuming we have the same stepper motor drivers with E on our card reader, the motor drivers we have are A4988 not the TMC drivers he talks about in this video, and have different calculations for I and treat Vref slightly differently.
on the A4988 data sheet I found internal PWM current control I(tripMax)=V(REF)/[8xR(sense)] so Vref=Imax*[8*.150 ohm]
not sure how your xyz could stand a Vref of of 5.78 but my E is running slow and not turning fast enough almost stalling. when I switched my E to X port, E would work fine but then my x would be at a crawl. so I'm going to try upping my E Vref if its less than 1.2V and see if that fixes my under extrusion. wish me luck
Failing to buy a multimeter, I just kind of gently turned these by feel and temperature of steppers. If they don't get over 40c all good :)
Welp must have shorted something as i lost voltage on my extruder motor. Guess I need a board upgrade.
Hey, would going through this process be the thing to do if my ender 3 pro is barely extruding anything? I tried adjusting the e steps and it only works if I set them super high like at 1000 and only for a few seconds before hardly extruding again. Im not too good at this but it seems to me like the motor isn’t strong enough to push the filament through. Thanks
Not sure. Which motor/extruder do you use? If stock, I would restore the default e-steps (93 steps per mm), increase the nozzle temperature and try again. 1000 steps per mm is way too high and can trigger over-current protection. Maybe your motor needs to be replaced.
@@YouMakeTech im using the stock motor and the extruder is an upgraded metal one, I tried at 93 steps and it still barely prints, I could try replacing the motor before trying to set the current.
I just got myself a pancake stepper paired with a BMG-clone and have changed the VREF to 0.485v. Is there anything in the firmware that needs to be changed in order for it to work well? My prints are turning out really shoddy atm and crumble to bits in my finger tips 🥲. The only help I received from the supplier was a message saying "0.8A--485", so I assumed that meant set the VREF to 0.485v and 0.8A in the firmware, but I've not seen any guides regarding changing stepper motor current within the firmware. If anyone can help me, I'd appreciate it.
Which 3d printer/mainboard do you use? on almost all Creality mainboards, the stepper motor current is set by a potentiometer on the board and cannot be set by firmware. The other setting to change is DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT which should be changed from 93 to 415 for a Bondtech BMG or clone. Thiis because of the gear ratio of the BMG
@@YouMakeTech Hey! Thanks for the reply. It's a CR10-S PRO using a Creality v2.4 mainboard I believe. Is the "DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT" setting basically e-steps, or something completely different? What VREF value would you recommend I set the potentiometer to?
@@scottwinchester6162 Yes it's the same as E steps. For VREF, I can't help because I don't know your mainboard.
@@YouMakeTech Thanks for the help. I've just cranked the VREF up to 1.1v, re-calibrated e-steps, and running a calibration cube print as we speak. Lets see if that made any improvement.
You only need to increase the VREF if your extruder skips steps. Otherwise, try to reduce it to keep your motor relatively cool, while not skipping steps
Hi what is roughly suitable Uref for Z axis if I use two motors instead of one?
Hi, it is a tricky question and I don't have an answer. The Ender 3 V4.2.* mainboards are not really designed to run dual stepper motors off a single driver. The Creality silent mainboards run the drivers in standalone mode. This mode provides less torque to even a single stepper motor, much less two. If you have just connected the 2 motors to the same driver in parallel using some sort of Y splitter cable, each motor receives only half of the current => less torque => skipped steps... You don't want to raise the current too much neither because the driver has probably not been designed to operate at 2x current for extended periods of time... I guess you have to raise the current a bit to compensate for the additional friction of the 2nd leadscrew + additional heat losses because you are running 2 motors instead of one. This is what I would do: Currently, your VREF on the Z axis should be around 1.10 V. I would raise it to 1.20 Volts. This is known to work because the extruder motor runs at this current in the stock configuration. If you still have skipped steps, I would raise it 0.10 by 0.10 Volts until skipped steps are gone, trying to stay below 1.40 volts. If this does not work, I would replace the Creality mainboard with a board that can natively support 2 Z motors on 2 individual drivers.
@@YouMakeTech Thanks for the qualified reply.
You're welcome. If you end up adjusting the stepper currents for this setup, please let me know how it goes I am interested in your experience.
Just check my ender 3 v2 v4.2.2 - X=1,2V, Y=1V, Z=1,2V, E=1,4V. Uusing your data, it means that i have X= 0,87A, Y=0,72A, Z=0,81A, E=1,01A. Thats why my X,Z axis motor and E are very heat, Y is colder. Thank you very much!
great video, I was looking for something like that. now I'm even more confused. I have a 4.2.7 motherboard and 42-34 standard motors. I plan to get some 0.9 degree motors for x y maybe and Z(dual Z). which one should I choose from all those on the market. according to everything I see, it won't work because the voltage is too high in the calculation? can it work at all or do I have to change the motherboard for a 0.9 degree motor. any help?
1:39 you did realise that your little trimmer was damaged, right? That would be setting an incorrect current setting to the driver :(
you realize that the board shown was removed from the printer, so probably was used just for demo, right?
@@icesystem7 when did he mention that in the video? Are you defending a claim with a "probably"? Ha!
@@DanielMelendrezPhD Daniel, you were the first to hypothesize: you assumed that I hadn't realized the trimmer on the board was damaged. Actually, Mike is right and this board was used just for demo. You realize that your initial comment was unconstructive and arrogant, right?
@@YouMakeTech Wow! Arrogant for giving constructive feedback on a good video. Alright. Good luck with your endeavours. See ya.
@@DanielMelendrezPhD Sorry I didn't find your initial comment at all constructive. I didn't like it, I still don't like it. Anyway, I normally ignore comments I don't like and will continue to do so: I only publish videos in the hope that they will be useful to some people. And thanks, some people are really encouraging, they typically start their comments with something like "thanks for the video"... I only do RUclips for these people.
it sound french
Yes 😊 Ze "French Touch" 😂
@@YouMakeTech thank you for this video though 👍
glad the video was helpful despite my poor pronunciation!
Tu devrais parler français lol 👍
oops i buyed a 3,3 volt 2,5 a motor