I love this channel because it is helping secure the future of a magazine I have subscribed to for almost 30 years - there is nothing out there like Practical Sailor - such a wonderful resource!
Absolute wizardry! I just tried this on my hull where fender goo had appeared to destroy my gel coat! It came out like new when using this cooktop cleaner! Not even the best cutting compound would work! Thanks for posting and sharing! Keep the amazing tips coming 😊
Love this idea. Long time sailboat owner. Used Barkeepers Friend (especially when hauling lift straps leave their mark!), Soft Scrub, etc. Glass top cleaner would be less harsh and obviously does the job well. Thank you so much. Looking forward to more. (Ps. Good timing during Annapolis boat show 🤣)
Red scotch brite? 7447/07747? I'd save the polish for after and just use water with the pad. A real maroon scotchbrite is ~360 Gritt. Gel coat has pretty much nothing to do with glass, but it's relatively thick (hopefully) compared to paint so, sure, cut it with whatever: polishing compound or sand paper or scotch brite... take off the damaged/stained surface and get down to clean material below. It's also relatively soft too so, you can polish it by hand pretty easy -- although boats can be a big place so a machine could make life easier -- but there's probably more appropriate compounds to use that could save time if the goal is to get to a shine again.
Curious as to the basis at 1:46 that the equivalent grit size is 2000. I would understand that red scotch brite is in the 400-600 range which is pretty aggressive. Given the ease at which your method worked, maybe the use of white scotch brite might be a better place to start. Thanks for sharing.
The pad isn't doing the abrasion at all, these red pads aren't even Scotch Brite. It's just for pushing the product around. The liquid product has the abrasive in it, and it's very very fine. As far as asking how the equivalent grit was determined, I'm sure the guy has used different grit products in the past for polishing and is saying so based on experience and comparing to those known grits.
The surface being cleaned might be an epoxy or polyester resin, it certainly isn't glass or ceramic. 1:26 That doesn't mean the product isn't useful for the task however.
@@rlmartin1988 He everyone. As mentioned a few times, the red pad I use in the video is the one intended for stove tops. It is not a 3M Scotch Brite red.
That is great. I’ll give it a try, particularly above the waterline towards the transom where the staining seems to be very deep. I had my boat out after 5 years in fresh water recently and cleaning the waterline was very tough. I found that the kitchen stainless steel scourers removed the oxidized white chalky decayed material in a single pass ready for a polish and wax process. My deck has a moulded in tread in the gell coat and collects dirt from rain very quickly, and is hard to keep looking clean particularly floating in an algae loaded lake.
The 3rd Hurricane Milton put my family and I out of commission for 9 days. I am so glad to have power, water, cell service and the internet back. 3 of them in a row is enough for this sailor on land. Keep your prayers and help fund the homeless. God Bless.
Awesome video! I'll give those products a shot! I've been using Shine Armor waterless wash which also adds a ceramic coating. It's another product made for cars but works wonders repelling water and dirt. Not so good at removing dark spots, though.
Glass/Ceramic is hard. Gelcoat is not. Stove top cleaners are very abrasive. It removes spills from the glass cook top by abrasion. Each time you are using this on your gelcoat you are removing a layer of gelcoat. How much depends on how hard you press and how many passes you make. How many times can you do this before you have removed the gelcoat? 5 times? 10 times? Maybe doing this once every 10 years won't do any real harm but this is not intended for use on gelcoat and you are totally responsible for any damage you do to your boats surface. Oh, and that's the brand we use on our glass top stove and love it. But I'd never use it on anything other than glass or maybe a pot with burnt on food.
@@Aquaholic3-MarcRobic Here in Europe Cif Cream is what boaters use for the same purpose and it is not as abbrassive as @tomus8433 says. You would have to use it everyday for a whole year to make a visible damage. It wont make a difference in the life of a boat, you wont live enough to damage your boat using a stove top cleaner on it.
Simplest stuff for small spots here and there is simple toothpaste and one of your used up toothbrushes. And if you have whitening toothpaste better to use it on your boat than teeth. Removes most black streaks perfect from gelcoat or paint.
One question, is it toxic? We have lots of birds and fish in our marina, dolphins, sea lions, rays etc. we even had a whale roaming the fairways. So I never use anything toxic, that is ok when you haul out.
Great tip. I learned it from the workers at the marina years ago. By the way, here in Europe they use Cif Cream, which is basically the same product (it contains tiny abrassive particles that polish without scratching, something similar as what toothpaste has for whitening teeth)
I use TR3 Resin Glaze for oxidation. Plus it leaves a hard coating that lasts a long while. I'd be more inclined to use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound If I wanted to get a little aggressive. I know this is about fiberglass, but Bar Keeper's Friend takes off rust spots off fiberglass and stainless.
Thanks for sharing your opinion. Truly. But I've been in the industry going on over 40 years now. And when I share thoughts and experiences, I do so with confidence. Like I said on the video and associated description, I complete the process with an automotive brand of spray on wash and wax I've been using for well over 20 years. But yes you are right, that many household products are not suggested. Testing any product hack should always be done on your own.
I’ve found Magic Erasers quite useful. They quickly remove all the wax so applying a protective coat of a good wax after removing the scuffs and stains is important. Patrick
VIM (te one with particules) is also a pretty good product to clean fiberglass. I used it especially to remove the black crap left by spiders on the surface when we are at the marina for a while. Thanks for your tips.
Looks great - does the spray wax protect against UV damage ? my first step is an electric power washer, but this looks like a great second and third step!
I've used magic erasers to gently remove black scuffs for years. Quick and easy. And easy to stow. They are of course abrasive (like this method), so gentle is key. However, I really like this cooktop cleaner idea for removing light oxidation over a whole area.
Be careful. For a start Gel coat is NOTHING like glass, it's a polyester resin with pigments. It's porous, glass isn't. Abrasive cleaning creams may seem to work when you use them but will make the gel coat fade and deteriorate even faster. Best to stick with a marine grade polish/wax and if you really want a beautiful long lasting shine and water repellant surface then go for a hydrophobic treatment/coating. Stay away from household cleaners, it's a huge mistake!
Seriously, this guy is an idiot. Of course if works like magic, it’s peeling off the gelcoat!!! There are no shortcuts, people…ffs. Super disappointing to see such stupid advice on this channel.
Hello, there are many "household" that do work. As for this glass polishers, I do apply a protective coat afterwards. I've been using Dry Shine Wash & Wax for about 20 years on my boats with excellent results and super easy application, including the hull above the water line.
@@Aquaholic3-MarcRobic You didn't mention applying a protective coat afterwards. Advising people to use abrasive household cleaners on polished gel coat surfaces is dangerous. Years ago when I was working in the industry, many people had problems with their gel coat going patchy, dull and in some cases even having a green tinge to it. In other words, ugly as sin. This was 100% due to the use of a household cleaner called Jif. Amazing for stainless steel cookware, sinks, benchtops etc but for gel coat, sure it got the marks of quick but it also seriously damaged the gel coat surfaces. There's a reason why there are specialized products. Simply because they have been extensively tested and proven over many years. They just work with no nasty surprises in the months / years to come.
How similar is stove top cleaner to a product like Vim, as far as abrasiveness goes? I've found that once you start using an abrasive product on smooth gelcoat or non-skid it gets dirtier faster and marks more easily. It's almost like a drug addiction; once you get your old boat that clean, it has to be that clean, all the time! I made the mistake of using Vim years ago on a boat we owned. It looked great once I was done but it sure went down hill quickly after that. In all fairness, I didn't follow up with wax afterwards
If you look at a Vim bottle it mentions not not to be used on glass stove tops. So I guess it’s more abrasive than stove top cleaner. Cerama bryte is another brand of glass cooktop cleaner that works on fiberglass
Not once did this guy mention what is actually going on here... It's not 'cleaning fiberglass', it's removing oxidation from the gelcoat. There are multiple acids that accomplish this, but ultimately if you remove the oxidation first it makes it much easier to polish (you don't have wet-sand as much). Waxes help prevent future oxidation from forming.
I almost purchase an RV with blotchy patches on the fiberglass that I was researching cleaning and polish products on to fix the issue. The rig ended up having bigger problems than the poorly maintained fiberglass, but I would have absolutely tried this with the glass stovetop cleaner I’ve used for years.
Why would you not just get some fiberglass compound and polish? When I first saw this, I thought it was foolish, but that’s considering I have compound, polish, and wax already hanging around from polishing my boat.
This is a great video. I believe that you should give Mark more credit for this than a brief flash of his RUclips channel. How about a link in the description!
Hi Tim. Which Wax or Polish provides the Best UV Protection for Gelcoat and the topsides of the Hull, and how frequently do you need tomuse it ? 🤔 Bob. 👍🌟🌟🌟⛵️
I have used VIM the same stuff for sinks and toilets. Also works on that nasty waterline hull . Same abrasive type cleaner and cheaper than stove top cleaner . Just wipe it down with a damp rag or water
When I had my first sailboat I cleaned her up bright and then applied a wax coat, using a product meant for a car. Big mistake. Not because of the finish or product issues. It was so slippery when it got wet it was downright dangerous! Now I only polish or wax sections that nobody will stand on or try to steady a hand on. There is a deck polish that gives a nice clean shine but doesn't get slippery when wet. I also use poliglow on the hull. If I have a bad mark (typically from a fender rubbing) I basically do a light sand with 600+ grit and apply several layers of polyglow allowing to dry between each. I have also started using cotton xxxL leggings which I often find on sale at Walmart to make covers for the fenders. Each pair of leggings gives me 2 covers and I just tie the loose ends.
@@user-ij4xj2ve7s as much as possible, I do try and avoid using silicone based products. But depending on the application, it may be the best available at the time you need it. If you do, and need to remove and clean any residue, use acetone or clean the areas while avoiding any plastic or plexiglass windows.
This is great. I just bought a 39 yo fibreglass production yacht. I've been looking for solutions to "pretty up" the gelcoat. On a similar note, my left chainplate is leaking. It's had a black sealant placed between the glass and chainplate. I've been slowly digging out the sealant to eventually seal it permanently with thickened epoxy. However, digging it out manually is painfully slow. Is there a solvent that will remove the sealant without damaging the deck integrity? Being an '85 production yacht, I imagine that it's a polyester laminate. Is it possible to dissolve the sealant? Is filling the joint between deck and chainplate with thickened epoxy the right long-term solution?
Epoxy is not a solution, use some flexible sealant, i’d use some kind of ms polymer like pantera. Clean with acetone. I guess you already took off the chainplate? Because thats necessary of course.
I know that I'm going to get railed by the comments on this, but this is not a marine safe product. Oh sure, I'm going to hear it. "It is just a little amount it won't hurt." Sure, if one person does it, it's fine, but how many little bits turn into a lot? When that gets rinsed off, whether it's from your hose or the rain. The cockpit drain drains into the water, or you bilge pump pumps out into the bay, sea, ocean, etc.... for centuries we (people) have been using toxic chemicals to clean and protect our boats, but we were completely unaware of the ecological impact it has had on our oceans and water sources, I would love to continue to be able to fish when on a long passage for decades to come. We, with the knowledge of how these chemicals affect the environment, need to be more mindful of how we use them. I'm sorry, I know how frustrating a dirty boat makes us feel, but in the long run isn't more important to have safe and clean waters to sail in? Isn't having safe fish to eat more important? Having wildlife to watch and clean pristine bays to visit? Coral reefs to dive? That is part of the fun of sailing.
It’s a reasonable question and one that should be asked by anyone who cares about the marine environment, particularly around marinas and places where there’s a high concentration of yachts and pleasure craft. The working ingredient in all of the non-caustic ceramic safe cleaners, that I know of, is CaCO3, Calcium Carbonate, otherwise commonly known as chalk, the carrier is generally water. Neither has any specific adverse effect on the marine environment unless introduced locally and rapidly in incredibly vast quantities. In fact, Calcium depletion of the world’s oceans, due to acidification from raised atmospheric CO2 levels, is one of the major factors contributing to dieback of hard Corals and soft shells in Crustacean populations. Adding trace amounts of CaCO3 back into the oceans is quite unlikely to cause harm, you are more likely to be doing some good. The main thing is to avoid any caustic stove cleaning products, but you wouldn’t want to use them on your boat anyway. Tbh, if you’re using a detergent for washdown, even the purported “marine safe” products, or any of the proprietary rust removers for stainless steel you’re going to be running the risk of doing harm to the local environment, while using powdered chalk in an aqueous suspension for cleaning GRP presents little to no risk and can actually be a benefit, though I suspect that it’s a moot point in the trace amounts that are likely to be discharged.
Good point. Which is why we use Barkeeper’s Friend (mentioned in prior comments). Also contains oxalic acid for brightening. Apply with microfiber, NOT scotchbrite pad, which will literally scour down gelcoat.
Jack, let get real here. When you use this product at home you rinse the sponge or pad in your sink. When you wipe off wax on your car at home, you wash the rags on your washing machine. When you clean your boat or wash your car your rince in your driveway or at your slip. This product has much less residue that all of that. I don’t mind criticisms, but let’s keep it honest. Try it first, then let us how it worked for you.
The grit of the glass cleaner is not relevant when applying it with a pad equivalent to 320 sandpaper. Yes - it will clean and remove oxidation, but then it will need either sanding up with 400/600/800 and compound, or a coarser compound to bring the gloss back I recently "cleaned" my hull the same way 400, 600, 800, 1000, paper on an RO sander, then Meguiars 49 on a wool pad.
The marine industry is heavily reliant on "magic" and confusion pertaining to what and how to achieve results on the variety of issues boat owners/trades people face daily. Casual terminology is the prime tool for maintaining those fertile conditions for sales.....The ingredients say everything if you take time to look at them: in this case, citric acid, various surfactants, various graded abrasives...please note No Magic. The effective ingredients for the hundreds of specialty products amount to roughly 20 general substances. I can wash down my boat two or three times each spring with a modest solution of oxalic acid and some boat soap (or LA Awesome(surfactant) be sloppy keeping things good and wet while the mix softens things up and by the third time I am free of iron stains, most yellowing, and any discoloring around stainless, bronze etc. Then if I am a good owner I can submit to using a very fine foam pad and any product with a very fine abrasive (very) to work over areas where the pores of the gelcoat are obviously somewhat "open" and can achieve a smoother surface less likely to catch dirt. This is always better done without any wax. When surfaces are truly clean and free of chemical staining such as various metal oxides from fittings etc a little follow up with acetone and an virgin rag will usually conquer what's left. THEN I can use a prime wax to seal it and enjoy a very presentable topsides for the season (touched up with a wash and wax if you wish) and if practiced from the very beginning with your boat, governed by using the least aggresive methods before anything else (except acidic soapy water) You should be pretty safe from most of the scary stuff being done to boats wherever they are by well meaning owners or tradesfolk.
When I first took me 1972 Pearon 26 to Fl, some of the corners went yellow. It was interesting that, when I move back north that the free radicals in the plastic went back to work and the regions went back to white. Fiberglass ties time to age.
If it works, it works; cool. But just so's you know, fibre-glass isn't a form of glass. It's glass reinforced plastic. The plastic being polymerised epoxy or ester resins in most cases.
Okay so we wrote it down, now what? A search for SPEN-CORP doesn’t come up with anything to do with fiberglass cleaning. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
I appreciate people that think out of the box like Mark. Superb discovery he made. Simple, less work and cost less than marine cleaners. Jim Rodgers
There’s always one amongst Unbelievable
I love this channel because it is helping secure the future of a magazine I have subscribed to for almost 30 years - there is nothing out there like Practical Sailor - such a wonderful resource!
Keep these videos coming, it is helpful for us new sailiors.
Absolute wizardry! I just tried this on my hull where fender goo had appeared to destroy my gel coat! It came out like new when using this cooktop cleaner! Not even the best cutting compound would work! Thanks for posting and sharing! Keep the amazing tips coming 😊
I use Bartender's Friend. Love the idea of protecting it with a polish
Great video, that works on fiberglass showers & tubs also..
You have come a long way since your first videos when you left the Great Lakes headed south. Good for you.
Love this idea. Long time sailboat owner. Used Barkeepers Friend (especially when hauling lift straps leave their mark!), Soft Scrub, etc. Glass top cleaner would be less harsh and obviously does the job well. Thank you so much. Looking forward to more. (Ps. Good timing during Annapolis boat show 🤣)
This is awesome, I'm going to try it on my RV as well as my boat!
Red scotch brite? 7447/07747? I'd save the polish for after and just use water with the pad. A real maroon scotchbrite is ~360 Gritt. Gel coat has pretty much nothing to do with glass, but it's relatively thick (hopefully) compared to paint so, sure, cut it with whatever: polishing compound or sand paper or scotch brite... take off the damaged/stained surface and get down to clean material below. It's also relatively soft too so, you can polish it by hand pretty easy -- although boats can be a big place so a machine could make life easier -- but there's probably more appropriate compounds to use that could save time if the goal is to get to a shine again.
Curious as to the basis at 1:46 that the equivalent grit size is 2000. I would understand that red scotch brite is in the 400-600 range which is pretty aggressive. Given the ease at which your method worked, maybe the use of white scotch brite might be a better place to start. Thanks for sharing.
I'll try the white Scotch Brite...😊
👍 I thought the same thing as soon as I saw that red pad. I use only white pads on my fiberglass.
The pad isn't doing the abrasion at all, these red pads aren't even Scotch Brite. It's just for pushing the product around. The liquid product has the abrasive in it, and it's very very fine. As far as asking how the equivalent grit was determined, I'm sure the guy has used different grit products in the past for polishing and is saying so based on experience and comparing to those known grits.
The surface being cleaned might be an epoxy or polyester resin, it certainly isn't glass or ceramic. 1:26
That doesn't mean the product isn't useful for the task however.
@@rlmartin1988 He everyone. As mentioned a few times, the red pad I use in the video is the one intended for stove tops. It is not a 3M Scotch Brite red.
My power cord lease. Black mark on the deck. I’m going to try this. I mostly use clearer wax and lots of elbow grease.
That is great. I’ll give it a try, particularly above the waterline towards the transom where the staining seems to be very deep. I had my boat out after 5 years in fresh water recently and cleaning the waterline was very tough. I found that the kitchen stainless steel scourers removed the oxidized white chalky decayed material in a single pass ready for a polish and wax process. My deck has a moulded in tread in the gell coat and collects dirt from rain very quickly, and is hard to keep looking clean particularly floating in an algae loaded lake.
The 3rd Hurricane Milton put my family and I out of commission for 9 days. I am so glad to have power, water, cell service and the internet back. 3 of them in a row is enough for this sailor on land. Keep your prayers and help fund the homeless. God Bless.
This was super helpful, thanks so much!
Awesome video! I'll give those products a shot! I've been using Shine Armor waterless wash which also adds a ceramic coating. It's another product made for cars but works wonders repelling water and dirt. Not so good at removing dark spots, though.
Great idea! I am going to try this on a 'test' section of my almost twenty year old RV's faded and scratched fiberglass exterior later today. Thanks.
I like the "in less than ten minutes" tag line. People hate videos over ten minutes. We all want executive summaries.
3 words. Westley’s Bleche White. It’s incredible on rubber rails. But also lifts discoloration out of white gelcoat.
Glass/Ceramic is hard. Gelcoat is not. Stove top cleaners are very abrasive. It removes spills from the glass cook top by abrasion. Each time you are using this on your gelcoat you are removing a layer of gelcoat. How much depends on how hard you press and how many passes you make.
How many times can you do this before you have removed the gelcoat? 5 times? 10 times?
Maybe doing this once every 10 years won't do any real harm but this is not intended for use on gelcoat and you are totally responsible for any damage you do to your boats surface.
Oh, and that's the brand we use on our glass top stove and love it. But I'd never use it on anything other than glass or maybe a pot with burnt on food.
Like you saw on my video, this is not intended for regular use. Only one or twice a year.
Bingo! What's your opinion on BonAmi?
@@wstadlock never used or tried it onboard.
Exactly!!!
@@Aquaholic3-MarcRobic Here in Europe Cif Cream is what boaters use for the same purpose and it is not as abbrassive as @tomus8433 says. You would have to use it everyday for a whole year to make a visible damage. It wont make a difference in the life of a boat, you wont live enough to damage your boat using a stove top cleaner on it.
Simplest stuff for small spots here and there is simple toothpaste and one of your used up toothbrushes. And if you have whitening toothpaste better to use it on your boat than teeth. Removes most black streaks perfect from gelcoat or paint.
Simple and effective. Nice!
One question, is it toxic? We have lots of birds and fish in our marina, dolphins, sea lions, rays etc. we even had a whale roaming the fairways. So I never use anything toxic, that is ok when you haul out.
Great tip. I learned it from the workers at the marina years ago. By the way, here in Europe they use Cif Cream, which is basically the same product (it contains tiny abrassive particles that polish without scratching, something similar as what toothpaste has for whitening teeth)
I use TR3 Resin Glaze for oxidation. Plus it leaves a hard coating that lasts a long while. I'd be more inclined to use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound If I wanted to get a little aggressive. I know this is about fiberglass, but Bar Keeper's Friend takes off rust spots off fiberglass and stainless.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Gel coat is not a form of glass fyi
Thanks for sharing your opinion. Truly. But I've been in the industry going on over 40 years now. And when I share thoughts and experiences, I do so with confidence. Like I said on the video and associated description, I complete the process with an automotive brand of spray on wash and wax I've been using for well over 20 years. But yes you are right, that many household products are not suggested. Testing any product hack should always be done on your own.
How would this product (or a like product such as Cerama Brite) compare with Soft scrub?
@ I would say it should perform just as well. Try it in hidden spot first.
You have to stand on some of those surfaces when moving around the boat. Is the fiberglass and non-skid slippery after waxing?
No. But can also get skid proof wax made for boats, but it costs a fortune....
I’ve found Magic Erasers quite useful. They quickly remove all the wax so applying a protective coat of a good wax after removing the scuffs and stains is important.
Patrick
Useful information. Thank you.
I like the debate on this thread. No absolute consensus so it's up to each individual to use their own judgement. Sailing is for individuals.
What is the pad you are using to apply?
Red Scotch Brite
Awesome and very helpful video.
VIM (te one with particules) is also a pretty good product to clean fiberglass. I used it especially to remove the black crap left by spiders on the surface when we are at the marina for a while. Thanks for your tips.
Looks great - does the spray wax protect against UV damage ?
my first step is an electric power washer, but this looks like a great second and third step!
Yes the automotive spray on wash and wax has excellent UV protection.
I used to use a power washer but found 30 Second Cleaner (bleach and soap) works better and you can rinse with a hose
I use CIF here in the uk...seems a gentle but effective cleaner for gelcoat
I will give this a try. I used Walmart brand oven cleaner (lemon scented) to remove dried on varnish off fiberglass and it worked perfectly?
Well this is simply brilliant!
magic eraser works all so. but i'll have to try this combo to compare
Yes Magic Eraser is also good and I've used it. But it does leave white residue. This cook top polisher doesn't
I found I had to be careful with the magic eraser to not focus too much on one area, as it can damage the finish
I've used magic erasers to gently remove black scuffs for years. Quick and easy. And easy to stow. They are of course abrasive (like this method), so gentle is key.
However, I really like this cooktop cleaner idea for removing light oxidation over a whole area.
Be careful.
For a start Gel coat is NOTHING like glass, it's a polyester resin with pigments. It's porous, glass isn't.
Abrasive cleaning creams may seem to work when you use them but will make the gel coat fade and deteriorate even faster.
Best to stick with a marine grade polish/wax and if you really want a beautiful long lasting shine and water repellant surface then go for a hydrophobic treatment/coating.
Stay away from household cleaners, it's a huge mistake!
Seriously, this guy is an idiot. Of course if works like magic, it’s peeling off the gelcoat!!! There are no shortcuts, people…ffs.
Super disappointing to see such stupid advice on this channel.
Hello, there are many "household" that do work. As for this glass polishers, I do apply a protective coat afterwards. I've been using Dry Shine Wash & Wax for about 20 years on my boats with excellent results and super easy application, including the hull above the water line.
@@Aquaholic3-MarcRobic You didn't mention applying a protective coat afterwards.
Advising people to use abrasive household cleaners on polished gel coat surfaces is dangerous.
Years ago when I was working in the industry, many people had problems with their gel coat going patchy, dull and in some cases even having a green tinge to it. In other words, ugly as sin.
This was 100% due to the use of a household cleaner called Jif. Amazing for stainless steel cookware, sinks, benchtops etc but for gel coat, sure it got the marks of quick but it also seriously damaged the gel coat surfaces.
There's a reason why there are specialized products. Simply because they have been extensively tested and proven over many years. They just work with no nasty surprises in the months / years to come.
How similar is stove top cleaner to a product like Vim, as far as abrasiveness goes? I've found that once you start using an abrasive product on smooth gelcoat or non-skid it gets dirtier faster and marks more easily. It's almost like a drug addiction; once you get your old boat that clean, it has to be that clean, all the time!
I made the mistake of using Vim years ago on a boat we owned. It looked great once I was done but it sure went down hill quickly after that. In all fairness, I didn't follow up with wax afterwards
This is my concern, rather like steam cleaning an engine bay - a layer of dirt can be a good thing!
If you look at a Vim bottle it mentions not not to be used on glass stove tops. So I guess it’s more abrasive than stove top cleaner. Cerama bryte is another brand of glass cooktop cleaner that works on fiberglass
Not once did this guy mention what is actually going on here... It's not 'cleaning fiberglass', it's removing oxidation from the gelcoat. There are multiple acids that accomplish this, but ultimately if you remove the oxidation first it makes it much easier to polish (you don't have wet-sand as much). Waxes help prevent future oxidation from forming.
Can you do an episode on tiny crack repair next time?
Wonder how well this would do with leaf stains? im gonna try it and see....why not right. Thx for the idea
What can I do to remove teak oil drips on my fiberglass hull?
I almost purchase an RV with blotchy patches on the fiberglass that I was researching cleaning and polish products on to fix the issue. The rig ended up having bigger problems than the poorly maintained fiberglass, but I would have absolutely tried this with the glass stovetop cleaner I’ve used for years.
Diamond Magic. You can buy it in Hawaii but haven’t seen it on the mainland. Similar idea in that it is an extremely fine abrasive.
Why would you not just get some fiberglass compound and polish? When I first saw this, I thought it was foolish, but that’s considering I have compound, polish, and wax already hanging around from polishing my boat.
This is a great video. I believe that you should give Mark more credit for this than a brief flash of his RUclips channel. How about a link in the description!
Wouldn't an automotive polishing compound applied similarly do the same thing?
Is this basically the same as a cutting or polishing compound? Wouldn't that work as well?
Hi Tim. Which Wax or Polish provides the Best UV Protection for Gelcoat and the topsides of the Hull, and how frequently do you need tomuse it ? 🤔 Bob. 👍🌟🌟🌟⛵️
I have used VIM the same stuff for sinks and toilets. Also works on that nasty waterline hull . Same abrasive type cleaner and cheaper than stove top cleaner . Just wipe it down with a damp rag or water
Apply wax after?
I only apply the Dry Shine Wash & Wax you see on the video.
Yes, I apply the Dry Shine Wash & Wax spray.
Thank You!
After you clean with the 2000 grit, rub in Marvel Mystery Oil for a long lasting shine. Unlike wax it penetrates to keep out dirt,
@@markbailey6051 Hello. Do you know if Marvel oil has UV protection properties?
@@Aquaholic3-MarcRobic probably not but it does add luster
When I had my first sailboat I cleaned her up bright and then applied a wax coat, using a product meant for a car. Big mistake. Not because of the finish or product issues. It was so slippery when it got wet it was downright dangerous! Now I only polish or wax sections that nobody will stand on or try to steady a hand on. There is a deck polish that gives a nice clean shine but doesn't get slippery when wet. I also use poliglow on the hull. If I have a bad mark (typically from a fender rubbing) I basically do a light sand with 600+ grit and apply several layers of polyglow allowing to dry between each. I have also started using cotton xxxL leggings which I often find on sale at Walmart to make covers for the fenders. Each pair of leggings gives me 2 covers and I just tie the loose ends.
Does anybody have links or names for these two products?
All you need is any brand if stove top polisher and any brand of automotive wash & Wax spray with UV protection.
@@Aquaholic3-MarcRobicdo we need to avoid silicone based products? I have heard they are hard to get completely off for repainting in the future?
@@user-ij4xj2ve7s as much as possible, I do try and avoid using silicone based products. But depending on the application, it may be the best available at the time you need it. If you do, and need to remove and clean any residue, use acetone or clean the areas while avoiding any plastic or plexiglass windows.
Great tip!
This is great. I just bought a 39 yo fibreglass production yacht. I've been looking for solutions to "pretty up" the gelcoat.
On a similar note, my left chainplate is leaking. It's had a black sealant placed between the glass and chainplate. I've been slowly digging out the sealant to eventually seal it permanently with thickened epoxy. However, digging it out manually is painfully slow. Is there a solvent that will remove the sealant without damaging the deck integrity? Being an '85 production yacht, I imagine that it's a polyester laminate.
Is it possible to dissolve the sealant? Is filling the joint between deck and chainplate with thickened epoxy the right long-term solution?
Have you tried wipping the area with a rag soaked in gasoline.
Interesting. I'll give that a go this afternoon. Thank you for the tip.
Epoxy is not a solution, use some flexible sealant, i’d use some kind of ms polymer like pantera. Clean with acetone. I guess you already took off the chainplate? Because thats necessary of course.
Magic erasers work well and i have been told they are about 1600 grit sand paper.
I know that I'm going to get railed by the comments on this, but this is not a marine safe product. Oh sure, I'm going to hear it. "It is just a little amount it won't hurt." Sure, if one person does it, it's fine, but how many little bits turn into a lot? When that gets rinsed off, whether it's from your hose or the rain. The cockpit drain drains into the water, or you bilge pump pumps out into the bay, sea, ocean, etc.... for centuries we (people) have been using toxic chemicals to clean and protect our boats, but we were completely unaware of the ecological impact it has had on our oceans and water sources, I would love to continue to be able to fish when on a long passage for decades to come. We, with the knowledge of how these chemicals affect the environment, need to be more mindful of how we use them. I'm sorry, I know how frustrating a dirty boat makes us feel, but in the long run isn't more important to have safe and clean waters to sail in? Isn't having safe fish to eat more important? Having wildlife to watch and clean pristine bays to visit? Coral reefs to dive? That is part of the fun of sailing.
Take it off with paper towel then
It’s a reasonable question and one that should be asked by anyone who cares about the marine environment, particularly around marinas and places where there’s a high concentration of yachts and pleasure craft.
The working ingredient in all of the non-caustic ceramic safe cleaners, that I know of, is CaCO3, Calcium Carbonate, otherwise commonly known as chalk, the carrier is generally water.
Neither has any specific adverse effect on the marine environment unless introduced locally and rapidly in incredibly vast quantities.
In fact, Calcium depletion of the world’s oceans, due to acidification from raised atmospheric CO2 levels, is one of the major factors contributing to dieback of hard Corals and soft shells in Crustacean populations.
Adding trace amounts of CaCO3 back into the oceans is quite unlikely to cause harm, you are more likely to be doing some good.
The main thing is to avoid any caustic stove cleaning products, but you wouldn’t want to use them on your boat anyway.
Tbh, if you’re using a detergent for washdown, even the purported “marine safe” products, or any of the proprietary rust removers for stainless steel you’re going to be running the risk of doing harm to the local environment, while using powdered chalk in an aqueous suspension for cleaning GRP presents little to no risk and can actually be a benefit, though I suspect that it’s a moot point in the trace amounts that are likely to be discharged.
The volume of cleaning materials versus the volume of the world's oceans. That's quite a ratio isn't it?
Good point. Which is why we use Barkeeper’s Friend (mentioned in prior comments). Also contains oxalic acid for brightening. Apply with microfiber, NOT scotchbrite pad, which will literally scour down gelcoat.
Jack, let get real here. When you use this product at home you rinse the sponge or pad in your sink. When you wipe off wax on your car at home, you wash the rags on your washing machine. When you clean your boat or wash your car your rince in your driveway or at your slip. This product has much less residue that all of that. I don’t mind criticisms, but let’s keep it honest. Try it first, then let us how it worked for you.
Isn't Scotch bright more than 2000 grit ..
Depends on the color. Each colour has different grit.
The grit of the glass cleaner is not relevant when applying it with a pad equivalent to 320 sandpaper. Yes - it will clean and remove oxidation, but then it will need either sanding up with 400/600/800 and compound, or a coarser compound to bring the gloss back
I recently "cleaned" my hull the same way 400, 600, 800, 1000, paper on an RO sander, then Meguiars 49 on a wool pad.
Holy F ck... I just ordered 6 cases. Thanks guys
how many bottles would it take to do the whole boat? :P
GREAt tip
I think im going to have to paint my gelcoat. Its gotten pretty bad. Cracks and crazing galore.
'There is also no shine so now he needs to buff it to get a shine back
There are many, many products and techniques for cleaning fiberglass...How about something for cleaning PAINTED hulls?
Wipe on weak muriatic acid, let it work for 10 minutes, then hose it off. Then wax to seal the pores in the gelcoat. Yes - polyester resin is porous.
The marine industry is heavily reliant on "magic" and confusion pertaining to what and how to achieve results on the variety of issues boat owners/trades people face daily. Casual terminology is the prime tool for maintaining those fertile conditions for sales.....The ingredients say everything if you take time to look at them: in this case,
citric acid, various surfactants, various graded abrasives...please note No Magic. The effective ingredients for the hundreds of specialty products amount to roughly 20 general substances. I can wash down my boat two or three times each spring with a modest solution of oxalic acid and some boat soap (or LA Awesome(surfactant) be sloppy keeping things good and wet while the mix softens things up and by the third time I am free of iron stains, most yellowing, and any discoloring around stainless, bronze etc. Then if I am a good owner I can submit to using a very fine foam pad and any product with a very fine abrasive (very) to work over areas where the pores of the gelcoat are obviously somewhat "open" and can achieve a smoother surface less likely to catch dirt. This is always better done without any wax. When surfaces are truly clean and free of chemical staining such as various metal oxides from fittings etc a little follow up with acetone and an virgin rag will usually conquer what's left. THEN I can use a prime wax to seal it and enjoy a very presentable topsides for the season (touched up with a wash and wax if you wish) and if practiced from the very beginning with your boat, governed by using the least aggresive methods before anything else (except acidic soapy water) You should be pretty safe from most of the scary stuff being done to boats wherever they are by well meaning owners or tradesfolk.
Magic, and cheap 😄
When I first took me 1972 Pearon 26 to Fl, some of the corners went yellow. It was interesting that, when I move back north that the free radicals in the plastic went back to work and the regions went back to white. Fiberglass ties time to age.
If it works, it works; cool. But just so's you know, fibre-glass isn't a form of glass. It's glass reinforced plastic. The plastic being polymerised epoxy or ester resins in most cases.
👍
Magic eraser. That’s all you need
Try Oxalic acid.
😀😀😀
Cleaning gelcoat 😂😂😂
Tried it. Doesn't work. Have tried everything out there. Oxalic acid to remove stains from gel coat prior to polishing works best.
fiberglass ≠ glass This technique might work, but let's be clear.
Write this down spen-corp, professionally used in marinas, I've used it, and if it doesn't remove the stain, scuff, stain. Nothing on this earth will
Okay so we wrote it down, now what? A search for SPEN-CORP doesn’t come up with anything to do with fiberglass cleaning. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
You really named your boat "Aquaholic"...three different times?
Yes. My way to accept my illness... 😂
@@Aquaholic3-MarcRobic- a dry boataholic - a growing club 😊
So you're cleaning your boat with buffing compound 😢
Nope. Not going to use abrasive on my gelcoat. Bad advice from PS... :-(
If you want to ruin your boat, go ahead and follow this guy's advise.
Stating why might be helpful....
If you're cleaning fiberglass, you've burned through...
It's nothing more than a rubbing/buffing compound, but cost 3 times as much.!
Not "rubbing compound" which is too abrasive. Use a "polishing compound" first.
MaryKate Cleaning Detail does the magic for me
She does it for me also,she’s hot stuff! Old chicks rule!
A magic eraser and a little bit of dawn and bar keepers friend in a bucket.